Out and About with Your Cat

In This Chapter

• Determining whether your cat should travel
• Choosing a pet-sitter or kennel
• Traveling by air or car
• Easing your cat through a change of address
• Figuring out whether your cat is showable

If you left the decision to your cat, the chances are good that neither of you would ever go anywhere. Not to work. Not to a lovely getaway weekend with the two-legged love of your life. And certainly not to the veterinarian. Cats love routine, they love territory, and they especially in

A well-run home, meals on time, warm places to sleep, and the attentions of a loving human — to a cat, these pleasures are heaven.

To humans, however, such an existence is boring. We’re a considerably more nomadic lot than our cats are, and most of us love an occasional change of scenery every bit as much as we appreciate the comforts of our homes. Then, too, sometimes the choice to travel is not ours, with family, friends, and work keeping us moving — to that business conference a half-day’s flight away, to a friend’s wedding, or to a relative’s funeral.

Remember

No matter where you’re going and why, carefully plan for your cat’s care so that she’ll be as happy as possible under the circumstances. Most of the times you go away, you’re leaving your cat behind, but if you’re taking her with you, make the journey as safe and comfortable as possible for her. And if you can’t have her with you, see that her needs are provided for by pet- sitters or boarding facilities so that you don’t need to worry.

Figure 18-1: Most cats would rather snooze at home than travel, and this old-timer is definitely one of them.

We certainly don’t want you to worry, whether you take your cat or leave her behind. This is why we tell you everything you need to know to make the right choices for your pet, whether you’re going away for the weekend or picking up stakes and moving your household — cat included, of course — cross-country. You want your cat to be happy. And so do we.

The Cat’s Meow

Although most cats prefer to avoid a life on the road, a few handle the challenges well. Put in this category not only top show cats, but also show-biz cats, who travel with their trainers for work in television, movies, and advertising. For the ultimate cat-travel story, however, check out the experiences of Peter Gether’s Scottish Fold, Norton, in his books, The Cat Who Went to Paris and A Cat Abroad: The Further Adventures of Norton, the Cat Who Went to Paris, and His Human (both in paperback from Fawcett). Norton has passed away, but in his time, he was quite a cat!

Is Your Cat Up to Travel?

Not that many cats take to travel the way dogs do, and if you want yours to have a chance at enjoying a life on the road, you probably need to start when your pet is a kitten. An adult can be more difficult to introduce to new places and people and may never adjust enough to enjoy the experience.

Some trips aren’t avoidable, especially if you’re moving. (See the section “Moving Your Cat to a New Home,” later in this chapter.) How much discretionary travel you attempt with your cat is basically up to your cat and comes down to two questions: Is your pet healthy enough to travel? Does your pet have the personality to adapt to travel?

You must answer those questions for yourself with input from your veterinarian and, of course, your cat. And maybe experiment a little with some short pleasure trips to make sure that they’re enjoyable for you both. Like Norton, the “Cat Who Went to Paris,” some cats are made for a life lapping cream in French cafés; others are delighted to be traveling comfortably in a well-equipped motor home. Maybe your pet is one of these vagabonds!

Cat Tracks

The trip almost no cat likes is the one to the veterinary hospital. We put tips on making that particular journey easier — for you, your cat, and your veterinarian — in Chapter Preventive Health Care for Your Cat.

Health considerations

Before undertaking anything more than a cross-town trip with your cat, take her to the veterinarian to make sure she’s in good health and current on all the preventive-care measures your veterinarian recommends. A cat who’s in poor health is not well suited to be a traveling companion.

Talk to your veterinarian about your travel and your concerns for your cat. If you’re traveling by air, you need a health certificate. (You can find more information on air travel in the section “Taking Your Pet with You,” later in this chapter.) If you’re traveling by car or by air, ask for a copy of your cat’s vaccination record, especially rabies. The thought that your cat may bite someone or tangle with a wild creature is horrible, but in case she does, you want proof of her rabies vaccination with you.

If you think your cat may be better off traveling sedated, discuss this option with your veterinarian.

Caution

If your cat is a Persian or Exotic Shorthair — or any mix that has these breeds’ trademark short muzzles — traveling may be a real hazard. That’s because breathing is more difficult for these short-faced pets. Air travel in a cargo hold should probably be ruled out. Ask your veterinarian what can ensure your pet’s safety any time that you must travel with her.

Temperament considerations

You know your cat better than anyone else. Is she shy and nervous or relaxed and outgoing? Does she adjust well to change? To noise? To changes in feed time or location? If your cat takes two days to “chill out” after a short car trip, you may decide that only essential trips are in her future.

If your cat is borderline, however, give her a chance. You may both enjoy the extra time together, wherever you are.

Leaving Your Pet Behind

You need to know what to do if you can’t take your cat with you, which is probably most of the time you’re away from home. Your cat may not be one of those rare ones who enjoys the challenge of travel, and even if he is, you can’t always take him along. Business travel is necessary, after all, and so, too, is that emergency trip cross-country to handle the estate of a relative. Another place you may need to go where your cat can’t is the hospital.

Ask your friends, neighbors, and coworkers what they do with their cats when they’re gone. Ask your veterinarian, too, for referrals to pet-sitters or boarding facilities, if he doesn’t have his own boarding facilities.

If you have a service in mind, whether a boarding facility or sitter, call and ask for references and then check it out — a step few people take. Ask about professional affiliations, such as the American Boarding Kennel Association or Pet Sitters International, both of which offer materials and training to U.S. and Canadian members to encourage a higher degree of performance from their members.

Tip

No matter what kind of care you choose for your pet while you’re gone, make your arrangements early, if you can. Pet-sitters and boarding facilities are booked weeks and sometimes months in advance for peak travel times, such as summer or the winter holidays.

Prepare for emergencies

One of the easiest things to overlook in leaving your pet behind — whether with a friend, a pet-sitter, or a boarding facility — is how you want him cared for should he become ill. Discuss care options with your veterinarian in advance and then clue in the person who’s caring for your cat.

Setting up emergency care arrangements works best if you have a good relationship with your veterinarian — but then, so does everything else concerning your pet’s health. Gina’s veterinarian knows the kind of health care she expects, and she trusts his judgment if he can’t get in touch with her. In her pets’ records is a note from him saying that, no matter who shows up with her animals, the hospital is to provide care, and her credit card number is on file to handle the charges.

Remember

You’re well advised to set up a similar relationship to the one Gina has with her veterinarian so that your cat’s care is something you don’t need to worry about while you’re away. Touch base with your veterinarian on this point at your cat’s annual exam or before you leave him to go on a trip to make sure that no misunderstandings come up.

Cat Tracks

For the ultimate in preparing for a trip where you can’t take your pet, see the information in Chapter Caring for an Older Cat on providing for your cat in your will. We don’t mean to be flippant about something so serious, but we do want you to be sure your pet is covered in any eventuality.

Pet-sitters

A wide range of services is lumped under the general title of pet-sitter, covering everything from a reciprocal agreement between friends to care for each other’s pets, to paying a neighbor kid to look in on your cat, to hiring a professional pet-sitting service to care for your pet in your own home.

The benefit of having your pet stay in your own home is that she’s familiar with the surroundings — which is a very important consideration where cats are concerned. And pet-sitters can do more than just look in on your pet: They can take in your mail and newspaper, water your houseplants, and turn lights on and off.

Remember

Discuss services and prices with pet-sitters beforehand, and if you’re dealing with a service, make sure that their employees are bonded and insured.

The biggest drawback to pet-sitters is that your pet is left alone a great deal of the time, because most pet-sitters probably can’t spend much time giving your pet individual attention. (An arrangement with a young person — or a house-sitter to stay in your home while you’re gone — may give your pet more opportunities to be petted or played with.) If your pet becomes ill or manages to escape, a pet-sitter may not come back to notice before some time has passed. And, finally, some people just aren’t comfortable having people in their home while they’re gone.

Caution

Informal arrangements for house-sitting — actually having the person move in while you’re gone — or pet-sitting — having the person just drop in once or twice a day to check on your cat — can be even trickier than hiring a professional service. Just ask the friend of Gina’s who left her house and pets in the care of a friend’s collegeaged daughter, only to find out that the young woman had been anything but a quiet resident. She’d had guests and even parties. The house was a bit worse for wear, but at least the pets were fine! If you’re going to go with a young person — and many people do, with no regrets — confirm that parental oversight is part of the agreement.

Tip

One of the best solutions is to trade pet-sitting services. Most animal lovers have friends who also have pets, and making a deal with a friend to cover each other whenever you’re gone can work out very well. Trading care is a solution that’s both reassuring — if you have friends who love animals as much as you do, that is — and inexpensive. All the arrangement requires is your own time in return.

Boarding facilities

Boarding facilities are another option, ideal for friendly, well-adjusted cats. Despite all the recommendations in the world, however, don’t leave your pet at a business you haven’t inspected yourself. You should see clean, comfortable, and well-maintained facilities, and if you don’t, go elsewhere.

Ask where your pet would stay and ask to see the premises. Make sure your cat will be housed completely away from dogs and separated from other cats — although your own cats can be housed together, unacquainted cats should never be mixed.

The facility operators should seem sincerely interested in tailoring their facility to make your cat’s stay more comfortable. They should be prepared to feed your cat as you do, especially if he’s on a special diet, and they should be willing to allow you to leave behind toys or articles containing your smell — a dirty sock, for example — to reassure your pet.

Figure 18-2: Many cats are most comfortable staying home while you’re gone and having a pet-sitting friend drop in.

Boarding your cat has a few advantages over hiring a pet-sitting service. Boarding facilities are usually very secure, and the best ones always have someone on-site to check in on your cat. Some businesses make up for the fact that they’re out in the sticks by picking up and delivering your pet.

Tip

If you don’t have a home yet in a city you’re moving to, a reputable boarding facility may meet your pet at the airport in advance of your arrival and care for her until you get there. Alternatively, you can often leave your pet while you’re house-hunting and arrange for the facility to ship her after you find suitable lodgings. (See the section “Air travel,” later in this chapter.) In general, we prefer to recommend accompanied air travel, but your circumstances may not permit it. If that’s the case, a reputable boarding facility can help.

Many veterinarians have boarding facilities, too, and if yours is among them, this option may well be the best boarding choice for your pet. The biggest advantage is that the staff is already familiar with your pet and her medical background — a real plus if your cat is elderly or has a chronic health condition.

Caution

Do not patronize a boarding facility that does not ask you for proof of up-to-date vaccinations. If they do not insist that your pet is healthy and well-protected from disease, they’re not asking these questions of other boarders, either, and not doing so puts your pet at risk. No matter what, we don’t recommend boarding a kitten who hasn’t had all his vaccinations. The increased possibility for disease isn’t worth the risk.

Showing off: Is your cat star material? People who are involved in the sport of breeding and showing cats — known as the cat fancy — come from all backgrounds and every corner of the world, sharing only their firm belief that the cat is the most beautiful of all beings. For some, the sport is both an obsession and a love. If your cat is in good health and can handle the stress of travel and of being looked at and handled by strangers, you’re welcome to enter him in the next cat show that comes up in your area. Before you do, however, read the cat magazines to see what kinds of shows are common in your region. Also write to the registry (such as the Cat Fanciers’ Association) for show rules to make sure that your cat is eligible. In some registries, for example, declawed cats are not allowed, whereas in others, your cat’s breed may not be recognized to compete at all. After you read the rules, attend a show as a spectator and pick up all the information you can find. Look for fliers on upcoming shows and pamphlets on how to exhibit, and buttonhole every friendly exhibitor you can to get all your questions answered. Your cat doesn’t need to be a registered, pedigreed animal to compete at most cat shows. Many people happily show in the household pet competition, but for others, household pet is just the beginning. They eventually choose a breed (or more than one) to compete for other awards and to develop a breeding program. One way to determine whether your cat may be show material is to consider how she behaves on her trips to the veterinarian. If she’s relatively easy to handle and friendly, she’s probably okay for showing. If she’s terrified, spitting and slashing, you probably need to resign yourself to attending cat shows as a spectator, at least until you add a more amenable cat to your family. We’ve put more on how to enjoy a show as a spectator in Chapter Narrowing the Choices.

Taking Your Pet with You

No matter whether by car or air, traveling with your cat is easier if you plan ahead and bring gear to make the trip easier. You need to travel a bit more lightly if going by air, but if you’re heading out by car, load up!

Remember

We cover only air and automobile travel because for most people those are the only options if you want your cat to accompany you. Most cruise ships usually don’t allow animals, nor do many bus or rail lines, including Amtrak.

The following list describes some travel essentials for your cat. Check out Chapter All the Right Stuff for more information on choosing pet supplies and the Additional Resources appendix at the end of this book for contact information on pet-supply catalogs.

• Carrier: An airline-approved travel carrier — also called a crate — can get you through any situation with your cat. Shop around for value, but don’t skimp on quality: Get a sturdy crate made of high-impact plastic, large enough for your cat to stand up and turn around in and not much more. This carrier can safely take your cat to the veterinarian and around the world, if need be, and is the most essential piece of travel gear for any cat.

If you travel cross-country in a car, you may want to get a larger carrier, sized for a medium-sized dog, so that you have room for a litter box inside the crate on a long drive. Another carrier option is a soft-sided bag (we like the ones made by Sherpa), which may be more comfortable for you and your pet if you’re traveling by air — but only if he’s with you in the passenger compartment. You need a hard-plastic, airline-approved carrier for use in the cargo hold.

• Harness, ID, and leash: A frightened or startled cat is harder to hold onto than a hot frying pan. Make sure that, if yours wriggles out of your grasp, he’s going no farther than the end of a leash. Keep a cat harness with an ID tag on him and attach a leash to the harness anytime he’s out of the crate. One nice leash for travel is a reel-type Flexi; the smallest size is lightweight enough for cats and gives your pet 10 feet of freedom. We like IDs that offer 24-hour tracking and assistance, such as those from 1-800-HELP4PETS.
• Litter box and filler: Although we generally recommend sticking with your cat’s regular brand, you’re likely to find that clumping litter is easiest to deal with on the road. Don’t forget to pack a litter scoop and air-tight, sealable plastic bags for keeping clumps smell-free until you can put them in a trash bin. You may find disposable cardboard litter boxes easiest to deal with, especially if you’re not using clumping litter — just toss litter and box as needed, even daily. Another possibility is buying a plastic storage bin with a snap-on lid. Although it doesn’t fit in a crate, such a bin holds a trip’s worth of clumping litter without spilling — just keep the lid on except when you’re offering your pet a potty break in the bin. And keep the clumps removed.
• Food, water, and bowls: Pack your pet’s regular rations and, if you’re using moist food, don’t forget a fork and a can opener (or choose pop tops). Keep a bottle of water in the car so your cat can always have a fresh drink, and offer refreshment often. Another possibility is to use a hanging bottle on the crate. These bottles come in sizes appropriate for animals from mice to Great Danes; cat-sized ones may be marked for rabbits. Finally, don’t forget some treats.
• First-aid and grooming supplies: Keep a basic first-aid kit at hand and pack in a comb and a brush as well. Don’t forget to bring along any regular medication your cat needs, too. For more information on the contents of a first-aid kit, see the Cheat Sheet at the front of this book or buy a ready-made kit. We list a contact number for one such manufacturer, PET-PAK, Inc., in the Additional Resources appendix.
• Paper towels and a spray bottle of a general-purpose cleaner: You’re going to need these, we promise. Throw in a few old towels, too. They’re good for beds, restraints in an emergency — see Chapter Common Cat Health Problems for more information on emergencies — and any kind of cleanup. Aerosol air freshener is another good thing to bring.
• A couple of your cat’s favorite toys, including an interactive one such as a cat fishing pole or a toy on a string: Hey, what else are you going to do in a motel room besides keep your cat amused?
• Travel guides: Although cats are a lot easier to get into hotels, motels, and inns than are dogs (and a hundred times easier to sneak in, in a pinch, but we didn’t say so), you still need a reference to find out which places welcome pets. AAA and Mobil travel guides note where pets are welcome, and many books deal exclusively with traveling with your pet.

Now, obviously, you’re going to tailor what you bring to the kind of trip you’re taking. You aren’t going to pack everything for a short air trip, but you need the lot if you’re traveling hundreds of miles by car.

Air travel

Although horror stories make the news, the truth is that airline travel is relatively safe for most pets. Your pet will do fine, too, if you play by the rules, plan carefully, and are prepared to be a little pushy on your cat’s behalf.

Animals move through the airline system in two ways: as cargo or as accompanied baggage. Your cat is better off if you’re traveling with him so that you can make sure he’s well cared for.

Remember

Some airlines allow animals in the passenger cabin if their carriers can fit in the space beneath the seat, which is true in the case of most cats. Cabin seating is by far the best way your cat can fly, because he never leaves your care during the course of the trip. Not all airlines allow animals to travel in the cabin, however, and others put a limit on the number of pets in the cabin, so making your arrangements far in advance pays. Check and double-check.

If your cat isn’t allowed in the cabin, he flies below, in a pressurized cargo hold. This situation isn’t ideal, but many cats do fine with it. The Air Transport Association estimates that more than half a million dogs and cats are transported on commercial airlines each year, and the industry group insists that 99 percent reach their destination without incident.

To make sure your pet is one of them, pay careful attention to the following tips:

• Talk to the airline. Some carriers, especially the new, no-frills companies, don’t take animals at all. Even those that do have limits on the number of animals on a flight, both in the passenger cabin and the cargo hold. You also need to know where and when your pet must be presented and what papers, such as the health certificate and so on, you need to bring.
• Make sure your pet is in good health and isn’t a short-nosed breed. These cats find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle. Talk to your veterinarian in advance about any concerns.
• Use an approved carrier that bears tags with contact phone numbers where you can be reached at both ends of the journey. (Your home number doesn’t help if you’re not at home.) Whether you carry your pet on board into the passenger cabin or must check him as cargo, include identification on your carrier. By law, the carrier should be just big enough for your cat to stand up and turn around in.

Make sure all the bolts securing the halves of the carriers are in place and tightened before checking in your pet. Don’t forget to put a safe harness and ID on your pet. In addition, you may want to consider inserting a microchip ID in your cat before you travel. (See Chapter All the Right Stuff for more information on microchipping.)

• Don’t ship your pet if the weather is bad or when air traffic is heaviest. Avoid peak travel days such as around the Christmas holidays. Choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departure airport, but also at the connecting and arriving airports. Although temperature doesn’t make a difference if your pet’s up top with you, it makes a big difference below: Cargo holds aren’t heated or cooled. In summer, a night flight is likely better, while the reverse is true in the winter. Be aware that there are regulations regarding the range of temperatures when a pet may be shipped. If the temperature on the ground in your departing, connecting, or arriving city falls outside these limits, you may run into unexpected delays or cancellations of your pet’s travel plans. Plan ahead.
• Choose a direct flight; if that’s not possible, try for a route with a short layover. Most pet fatalities occur on the ground, when animals are left in their crates on the hot tarmac or in stifling cargo holds. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce the time on the ground.
• Remember that your cat’s life depends on the attentiveness of airline personnel if he’s not in your care in the passenger cabin. Most of these employees are excellent and caring, but mistakes do happen. You should be prepared to pester airline personnel to confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made the same connections you have. If your pet is flying unaccompanied, talk to freight-handling personnel at every airport your cat visits. Be polite but persistent; don’t take “I’m sure he’s fine; have some delicious honey-roasted peanuts” as an answer from a flight attendant. Make the staff check and report back.

Figure 18-3: The best way for your cat to fly is in the passenger compartment with you. If his carrier fits under the seat, many airlines allow him aboard.

Caution

Contrary to popular belief, you’re generally better off not having your cat tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge that your pet’s body is better prepared to meet if she’s not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. In the end, you and your veterinarian should decide on this issue.

The Cat’s Meow

The Air Transport Association has a free booklet, Air Travel for Your Dog or Cat. The booklet is available by sending a self-addressed, stamped, business-sized envelope to: ATA, 1301 Pennsylvania Blvd. N.W., Suite 1100, Washington, DC 20004.

Car travel

We know you love your cat’s company. We know that you love his purrfect puss. We also know that, for safety’s sake, your pet should be out of sight whenever the car is moving, appropriately confined in his carrier. A loose cat in a car is a danger that shouldn’t be risked — even if he doesn’t get under your feet, he could get up so far under the seat that you have a very hard time getting him out after you stop.

Tip

Your cat may be more comfortable — and certainly more quiet — if you cover his crate with a towel while the car is in motion. Experiment to see which method your cat likes best. If your cat doesn’t stop crying no matter what, bring along a squirt bottle and give him a shot of water whenever he pipes up. Either that or bring plenty of headache remedy, because after a few minutes of listening, you’re going to need it.

Your cat can go for as long as you can without stretching his legs. After you stop, put on his leash for safety before you let him out into the car and offer him water and a litter break — unless both are already available in his crate. Food is probably best left for morning and night in your motel room.

Caution

Never leave your cat unattended in a car. If the heat doesn’t get him, a thief may. If you’re traveling with your cat, your meals are mostly going to be of the drive-through variety. If you absolutely must leave your cat in the car — for your bathroom break, for example — park in the shade, roll the windows down a little, and be quick — and we mean like five minutes. Even better, take your cat and his carrier inside the stall with you. He has seen you in there before; he’s not going to be shocked.

Tip

If you want to kick around for a while, shopping and sightseeing, and still make sure your cat is safe, look up a local veterinarian in the phone book and see whether you can make arrangements for a few hours’ boarding. Gina has done so for years and found most veterinarians very amenable to helping out — usually at a very reasonable cost. You can also leave your pet in your motel room — but always in a crate for safety.

Moving Your Cat to a New Home

For many cats, one of the most stressful events of their lives is a distracting time for their owners as well — changing addresses. Combine traveling with suddenly being in unfamiliar surroundings — which may even smell like former animal occupants — and you can easily understand why more than a few cats spend a very long time freaked out and hiding under a bed after a move.

Your cat thinks his current home is just perfect, but because he really doesn’t get to vote, try to make the move as easy on him as possible. The key to success is to keep your cat secure before, during, and after the move. Anticipate possible problems and make your cat as comfortable as possible at every stage of the game.

Tip

One way to up the security factor is to order an ID tag with your new address and phone number as soon as you know them, and add it to your cat’s collar along with the old ID. That way, you can make sure that the new information is securely on your cat’s collar before any packing begins. If you’re traveling a long distance to your new home, use paper-key tags (available very cheaply from your local hardware or variety store) for temporary ID. Just jot your daily information, such as your name, phone number, and hotel room number, on the tag and put it on your cat’s collar. (More information on collars and IDs is in Chapter All the Right Stuff.)

Using a safe room for moving

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a safe room before and after the move. The ideal setting is a room where your cat isn’t going to be disturbed — a spare bathroom is perfect — and outfit it with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post, a bed, and toys. (Don’t feel bad about confining your pet: He’s more comfortable in a small space, and he isn’t subjected to the stress of seeing people — perhaps strangers — tromping out of the house with his belongings. And don’t forget that his belongings, after all, include everything in your — um . . . we mean his — house.)

Cat Tracks

A safe room is also good for bringing a new cat into your home and for retraining any cat with furniture-destroying or litter-box-avoiding habits. For more information on how to use a safe room while introducing a new cat to your home, see Chapter Getting the Relationship Started Right. For help with feline behavior problems, see Chapters Solving Behavior Problems and Getting Good Litter Box Behavior.

Confining your cat also prevents his slipping out, which is a danger at both the old home and the new. Your cat could easily become scared, take off, and get lost, even in his familiar neighborhood. If your cat turns up back at your old place, a reunion can be hard to arrange, especially if you’ve moved to another city.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room the day before packing begins, moved to his new home in a carrier, and then confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged, and most of the dust settled.

Cat Tracks

A carrier is one of the best investments you can make in your cat’s safety. For more information on choosing one, see Chapter All the Right Stuff. A carrier plays a crucial role in disaster preparedness for pets; more information on planning for an emergency is in Chapter Ten Things to Know in Case of Disaster.

After everything’s settled, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore at will, on his terms — but just within the limits of the house. He still needs to be kept completely inside for a couple weeks even if he’s not a completely indoor cat. This period of home detention helps him to start forming a bond with his new surroundings.

Caution

Trying to force a scared and stressed-out cat to do anything he doesn’t want to is hazardous to your health. After you arrive at your new home, don’t pull your cat out of his carrier. Instead, put the carrier in his safe room, open the carrier door, and let him come out into the room when he wants to — even if it’s not for an hour or more. After he’s a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats if you want, but don’t rush him, and don’t drag him out — or you may be bitten or scratched.

Figure 18-4: Keeping your cat confined before and after you move makes the transition easier and safer.

Leave the carrier, with the door open, in the safe room. It is the most familiar place in your new home in your cat’s mind and will likely be his chosen spot for a while until this new house becomes his new home.

The Cat’s Meow

Moving to a new home is a great time to convert your cat to an indoor-only pet. In your old home, he’d complain to the skies if you denied him access to his outside territory (until he got used to the fact that you’re not letting him out, that is). But in a new home, his new territory is what you let him have and no more. The transition to his being an indoor-only cat isn’t very hard on either of you and is certainly better for your cat in the long run.

Anticipating problems

Starting your cat off in a safe room after a move offers another benefit. It gives you a chance to refresh his training about your house rules, especially regarding destructive clawing, urine spraying, and litter box avoidance — all behavioral problems that can spring up if your cat is stressed and disoriented.

By limiting your cat’s options to the litter box and scratching post in his safe room, he quickly redevelops the good habits he had in your old home. After you start letting him out of the safe room to explore the rest of the house, add another litter box or two throughout the house to make the transition easier. You can gradually reduce the number of litter boxes later, after you’re sure your pet’s going where you want him to go.

Cat Tracks

Although your cat’s likely to settle back into his old, good habits in a couple weeks if you keep him confined and allow him to relax, talk to your veterinarian about any problems that continue. Your cat may be ill, or he may need antianxiety medication to help him settle in. And don’t forget to check out our advice on behavior problems in Chapters Solving Behavior Problems and 15.

Lost . . . and found, we hope Although any cat can turn up missing at any time, moving is a time to be especially vigilant in protecting your cat. Preventing a missing cat is a lot easier than trying to find one, which is why confinement indoors — permanent, ideally — is the number one way to keep your cat from getting lost. Even indoor cats can slip out, though, which is why all pets should carry a current ID tag on their collar and even an imbedded microchip for permanent ID. (See Chapter All the Right Stuff for more information on both.) Another just-in-case measure: Keep good-quality pictures of your cat on hand in case you need to throw together a “lost cat” flier. If your cat doesn’t show up for dinner one night, don’t just assume he’s going to turn up in a day or so — take action! Place an ad in your local newspaper and create and distribute fliers that include the cat’s picture, a description, and a reward, if you’re offering one (and we recommend that you do). Post the fliers around the neighborhood and take some to area shelters and veterinarians and especially to emergency clinics. Scan “found” ads in the paper and check the shelters every other day, in person. Don’t give up too soon: Pets have turned up weeks after their disappearance, so keep checking — and keep hoping.

Allowing time for readjustment

Your cat probably needs a couple weeks to settle into his new routine — to come out of the safe room, become familiar with the house, and use his scratching post and litter box normally again. Don’t rush him. Be observant of the signs that your cat is becoming less tentative and more confident in his explorations and, above all, don’t allow him outside until he’s comfortable with the inside of your house.

Cat Tracks

Cat body language can be very subtle. Learn how to tell when your cat’s relaxed, playful, or unhappy by reading Chapter Learning Feline Body Language.

If you plan to let your cat outside, take him out on a harness and leash and follow him around as he becomes familiar with the new area. Coax him back in by using praise and treats — let him walk in, if you can, instead of carrying him. Follow each outing with special play or petting time so that he develops a positive association with your new house and is therefore more likely to recognize it as home.

When is the right time to just let him loose? To be honest, it’s always a gamble. Do your best to give your cat all the time he needs to settle in and then let him explore the outside for another week or more under your supervision. In the end, however, if you insist on letting your cat outdoors, you just must chance it and hope for the best. If you take the time your cat needs to adjust, he’s probably going to stick around.

The home-again cat Because cats bond to places as well as to people, some cat lovers find that their free-roaming pets keep showing up at their old home after a move, especially if the new home isn’t more than a couple miles from the old one. If your pet is one of these home-again cats, the best suggestion we have for you is to convert your cat to an indoor pet, because crossing streets to go “home” considerably ups his risk factor, which is already much higher than an indoor cat’s. (See Chapters All the Right Stuff and Ten Ways to Make Your Indoor Cat Happier for the gear you need to keep your cat happy indoors.) If permanent confinement is not possible, bring your cat inside for another couple weeks — you may have let him outdoors too soon. Dedicate extra time to playing with him, especially interactive games such as a cat fishing pole or toy on a string. This extra time helps to relieve him of some of his stress or excess anxiety and helps him form new attachments to his new home and you in it. Because unneutered males roam the most, having your cat altered if you haven’t already done so is also a good idea. After you let your cat outdoors again, make sure the new people at your old home aren’t encouraging your cat to stay. Ask them not to feed him or pet him and to use a squirt bottle or other deterrent if they see him around. Gina has an interesting case of a “home-again cat” who believes that her home is still his. Fortunately, his new home is right next door. George, a marmalade tabby, was once owned by the former owners of Gina’s house, who left him with the next-door neighbor after they moved. Although George and Gina’s dog, Andy, are sworn enemies, the cat always knows when the dogs aren’t home and Gina is — and he often pops in the pet door to say hello. Finding George’s scent in the house later drives Andy crazy, which no doubt delights the gregarious tabby.

by Gina Spadafori and Paul D. Pion