All the Right Stuff

In This Chapter

• Looking at litter boxes and fillers
• Making sure your cat has ID
• Choosing scratching posts, cat trees, beds, and bowls
• Selecting traveling gear
• Buying all the best toys
• Getting the buzz about catnip

No barn cat ever imagined the way some of our cherished pets live today. Although cats have for uncounted generations relied on their own wits and skills to find food and water, a place to relieve themselves, a place to sleep, and things to amuse themselves, our increasingly indoors-only cat population looks to us to provide them with their basic needs, and to do so, you need cat gear.

But what choices you have! Forget about the old adage of making a better mousetrap: Make a better cat toy, and the world is sure to beat a path to your door today. Even more compelling: Make a perfect litter box, and you’re certain to retire rich, as the inventor of Kitty Litter, the late Edward Lowe, did a generation ago.

At the basic level, cat gear takes care of your pet’s needs in an inexpensive, no-nonsense way. But sometimes spending a little more can make your life easier and your cat’s life more full, the latter an important consideration for the indoor cat who stays alone while you’re at work. Besides, shopping for cat supplies can be great fun!

Cat Tracks

Although we cover the kinds of dishes you need for your pet in this chapter, we tell you what to put in them in our section on nutrition in Chapter Feeding Your Cat. Information on the best grooming supplies for your cat — and how to use them — is in Chapter Good Grooming.

Finding the Best for Your Cat

Never before have people had so many choices in shopping for pets. In recent years, pet superstores have popped up everywhere, with a bigger selection of supplies than were carried by a half-dozen of the mom-and-pop pet stores of a generation ago. In the shadow of the retailing behemoths, small businesses have had to focus on finding a new niche, providing services such as free delivery, a higher level of pet-care advice than the superstores can offer, or niche products such as jeweled collars, wind chimes, and high-end toys and treats.

At supermarkets, where the emphasis is on age-old brand names and generic store brands, the appeal is convenience. Pet supplies are one of the top categories in any grocery store in terms of shelf space, and grocery retailers and their suppliers have done a great deal in recent years to improve the quality of their offerings. Of course, much of the reason for this increased interest in pet supplies is the supermarkets’ desire to keep their share of the multibillion-dollar sales volume intact from the onslaught of their new competitors. Those competitors include the pet superstores, general retailers such as Wal-Mart, and warehouse stores such as Sam’s Club.

And what about catalogs and the Internet? The boom in mail-order business hasn’t missed the cat-supplies industry, with available catalog selections as varied as those of the pet superstores and as focused as those of high-end cat boutiques. The biggest explosion is online, where well-funded Web sites have been launched in hopes of cutting out a big piece of the pie. Huge Web sites with large advertising budgets suggest some form of online shopping for pet supplies is definitely here to stay.

Finally, don’t forget the little guys! Many of the most creative and attractive merchandise for cats are handmade in small quantities. Craft fairs, cat shows, and farmers’ markets are good places to look for these items.

Remember

Although experimenting with brand names and generic products is fine, remember always that the final determination of suitability on any product comes down to two things: First, is it safe for your pet, and second, does your pet like it?

Tip

You don’t always need to think “new” when you need cat supplies. Many a top-quality cat tree or carrier has turned up at yard sales at a fraction of the cost for new, so keeping your eyes open at such sales often pays off for you and your cat. (Remember to clean secondhand gear thoroughly before use.)

A Place to Go

No product is more important to a harmonious relationship between you and your cat than a litter box. What behaviorists call inappropriate elimination — a cat who goes where he’s not supposed to — is the top complaint cat lovers make about their pets and one of the primary reasons why adult cats end up in shelters.

Remember

The litter box you choose and what you put in it are two of the most critical purchases you’ll ever make, and you need to be aware that you may not get the formula right the very first time. Be aware of all the possibilities and be prepared to experiment to find just the right combination of box and filler that’s right for your cat’s temperament and health.

Cat tracks

Every bit as important as choosing the right litter box and filler is making it inviting and comfortable for your pet to use. If you have a cat who’s refusing to use the litter box, you want to read Chapter Getting Good Litter Box Behavior, which contains the information you need on the causes of and cures for litter-box avoidance.

Getting the poop on litter-box choices

More choices in litter boxes exist than ever before and range from the recycling of old baking pans and dishpans to the inexpensive options of cardboard throwaways, to higher-priced models that make cleaning easier — or even automatic. The following list describes just some of your choices:

• Disposable pans: Small cardboard litter boxes are popular with shelters, rescuers, pet stores, and some breeders but probably aren’t too practical for long-term use for your pet cat. Still, you may consider keeping a few of these on hand in case a stray walks into your life, for young kittens, or for cats who need nursing back to health. They’re good for travel, or for use in time of disasters, too. Gina once cared for a cat with a broken leg, and the smaller size of disposable litter boxes worked well with the large carrier the cat stayed in while recuperating.
• Household items: A 9-x-13-inch metal baking dish, too worn for cooking, can be a good first litter box for a kitten — its low sides making it easy for babies to hop in and out of. Plastic dishpans, with their high sides, can be a good choice for cats who like to kick their litter everywhere.

The Cat’s Meow

A truly novel idea in the do-it-yourself litter box category comes from feline behaviorist Kate Gamble, whose cat-behavior videos are just about the best around. (See the Additional Resources appendix in the back of this book for ordering information.) Gamble, who is associated with the San Francisco SPCA, uses a plastic box sold for storing blankets, cutting one side down to make an easier opening and covering the cut edges with duct tape to prevent fur snags. She says the high sides of this design are another way to combat litter-kickers; to combat tracking, she puts the box lid underneath to collect litter from her cats’ paws.

• Simple plastic pans: Millions of cats have done just fine with this design, and yours may be among them. Relatively inexpensive and widely available, these pans come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. Some have special rims to keep more filler in the box. Make sure the one you choose is easy to scrub clean.
• Covered pans: Manufacturers say covered pans keep odors down and prevent dogs and children from getting into the filler. Unfortunately, some owners take the approach that, if they can’t smell the litter box, it doesn’t need attention — and the cat who feels otherwise finds someplace else to go. If you choose this kind of pan, don’t forget you must be as on top of its cleaning as you would with any other variety — and don’t blame your cat for mistakes if you aren’t.

Caution

Cats with asthma should not use a covered litter pan — they need the increased ventilation an open-air variety offers. For more on cat asthma and other common health problems, see Chapter Common Cat Health Problems.

• Self-cleaning pans: No one likes to clean the litter box, but some cats are so fussy that, if you let this important chore wait, your cat may turn her nose up and go elsewhere. In recent years, inventors have come up with new pans that make cleaning a nearly “hands-off” affair, thanks to the easy-clean properties of clumping cat-box filler. Some of these boxes have lift-and-sift inserts that collect used clumps as you lift them, while you roll others over, running litter through a collector that catches and holds the clumps. Although generally a little more expensive than ordinary hoodless pans, these systems may be a good option if you’re so squeamish about litter-box cleaning that, as a result, you don’t do it frequently enough.

The electric self-cleaning litter box must be considered the top-of-the-line; indeed, its manufacturers promote it not as a litter box but as a household appliance. The system uses clumping litter and removes waste automatically after each use, thanks to an electronic eye that notices when a cat steps in and a ten-minute timer that ensures that he’s long out of sight before the cycle begins. The machine runs a rake through the litter, catching clumps and depositing them in a sealed bin for later disposal. On the way back, the rake smoothes the litter for the cat’s next visit. Ingenious!

Caution

Although no one’s exactly fond of dealing with soiled litter, some people should avoid it entirely — pregnant women and people with immune systems suppressed by disease or medical regimens. That’s because some cats harbor a parasite that can be dangerous to fetuses and to people with impaired immune systems. The danger should be kept in perspective, however, and does not require anyone to get rid of a cat. For the facts on the parasite and on the disease it causes (called toxoplasmosis ), see Chapter Good Grooming.

Figure 8-1: Litter-box choices range from simple pans to hooded models to self-cleaning electric appliances. The choice is yours, but only if your cat agrees!

Litter-box accessories

No matter what kind of litter box you choose, you have some additional options to choose from — items intended to keep things neater or make cleanup easier. Here’s the rundown:

• Scoops: These utensils range from flimsy plastic to last-forever high- quality plastic and metal. You probably need one even for self-cleaning litter boxes — scooping one mess is often easier than sifting the whole box. Skip the flimsy scoop and get something that’s going to last you a while.
• Liners: Intended to make changing the entire contents of the pan easier, liners work fine . . . if your cat likes them. If your cat digs deep with claws extended, he may not like catching himself on them. Experiment and see what works best for you both.
• Mats: You’ll put up with less tracking of filler if you put a mat of some sort under your cat box. You can find mats made just for this purpose in any pet-supply store or catalog, or you can use an ordinary door mat or carpet remnant.

The scoop on litter

Some experts have credited the invention and improvement of litter as the driving force behind the cat’s rise to the position of top companion animal, and certainly such a case can be made. Before absorbent filler became widely used and accepted, the alternative — sawdust and sand — left so much to be desired in the way of smell and ease of use that cats were often banished to the outside to eliminate their waste. After modern litter took off, however, cats became an integral part of the lives of an ever-increasing number of people, leading to the high popularity of felines today.

Remember

Many choices are out there when it comes to cat-box fillers, but you must always remain aware that the decision of which one’s the “right” one rests solely with your cat. A litter you like won’t be of much use if your cat hates it and goes elsewhere.

Even the best cats have accidents, and you want to keep cleaners at hand for any eventuality. The most important thing to remember: Never clean up a pet mess with an ammonia-based product: It makes the area smell even more like urine — ammonia being a component of urine — and attracts the pet back to the site for more messing.

The Cat’s Meow

Several good products are designed to remove stains and smell through enzyme action. Pet lovers should keep such supplies on hand because you’ll need them eventually.

Clay litter

A half-century old and still a significant part of the market, clay litter is the product that started the cat revolution. Clay litter is the least-expensive option in terms of price per pound, but you need to use more of it because clay litter needs to be completely replaced weekly to combat odors — although some brands do have deodorizers built in.

Cat Tracks

Some believe that clay tracks less and is safer for the tiniest kittens. (See the sidebar “Litter health risks, real and not-so-real,” later in this chapter.)

Clay is easy to use with disposable boxes and so is popular with shelters and rescuers. Liners may make replacement of the entire contents of a cat box easier.

Clumping litter

Call clumping litter the second revolution, if you will. And even if you won’t, have no doubt about the increasing popularity of this product among cat lovers.

Does an indoor-outdoor cat need a litter box?

Are you intending to be one of those people who never deals with a litter box at all? Unless you’re living on ten acres of your own private property, we think you should reconsider your decision and get your cat a litter box. We’re guessing that your neighbors are going to agree. Letting your cat use the great outdoors as he chooses is unfair to your neighbors and unhealthy to the people who come in contact with cat waste in their own flower beds — including members of your own family. We’re not going to rehash the arguments against letting cats roam freely — they’re listed in Chapter A New Appreciation of the Cat already — but we do stress that, if your cat wanders the neighborhood, you need to do what you can to get him to do his business at home. Keep a litter box clean and accessible to him at all times.

The Cat’s Meow

Clumping, or scoopable, litters dissolve around the moisture in urine or feces, reforming as a lump encasing the mess, which can then be easily scooped, raked, or sifted out. Because the entire mess is scooped out each time — assuming the clump doesn’t break — odor problems are minimized. As with clay brands, some clumping litters have deodorizers in them.

Although clumping litters are more expensive per pound, they require you to use less because all you need do is replace the litter you’ve removed with the waste. Although clumping litter does need to be replaced eventually, that chore can wait for a month or more, depending on the quality of the litter (some brands clump better than others) and the number of cats using the box.

According to CatWatch, a monthly newsletter put out by the Cornell Feline Health Center (subscription information is listed in the Additional Resources appendix at the back of this book), preference polls indicate that cats prefer clumping litter to other varieties. This means that cats who may avoid the litter box if it’s filled with other litters may use a clumping variety without problems.

Drawbacks to clumping litter include tracking problems, because the material that sticks to moisture on cat mess clings just as easily to moisture on cat paws. A mat will help to catch the mess.

Tip

Even worse than clumping litter’s tendency to stick to a cat’s paws is the mess than can develop around the genital area and back thighs of a cat with long silky hair, such as a Persian. Moisture in this area collects litter and can cause these cats problems with grooming and even defecating if the problem is left unattended. To avoid these problems, keep your cat’s fur cut close on his inner thighs and other areas where urine may catch, and make sure that you’ve set up a frequent grooming regimen to catch any granules. For more information on grooming, see Chapter Good Grooming.

Litter health risks, real and not-so-real

As we mention elsewhere in this chapter, hooded boxes aren’t recommended for cats with asthma. The same goes for dusty litters (as opposed to low-dust varieties) and litters with deodorizers, both of which may irritate these sensitive cats. One health risk that seems to have no basis in anything but rumor and anecdote is the purported problem with clumping litter causing intestinal blockage — and death — in kittens. The idea traces to anecdotal reports in cat lovers’ magazines, later picked up and spread on the Internet. To date, no scientific study has confirmed that such a problem exists. To err on the safe side, some veterinarians suggest avoiding clumping litter until the kitten is out of the taste-testing-everything curiosity stage. But even that advice is just a precaution for kittens only, and you don’t need to fear any harm if you use clumping litter with adult cats.

Alternative litters

Coming up third in consumer preferences are various alternative fillers, including those made from wood fiber, corn cobs, pelleted newsprint, and other recycled materials. Some cats and cat owners love these alternatives; others can’t stand them. Feel free to experiment until you find something that you, your cat, and your pocketbook can all be happy with.

Caution

Some litters call themselves “flushable,” meaning that you can put waste and filler together into your toilet for easy disposal. Whether this approach is a good idea for your household depends on your home, the age of your plumbing, and whether you’re on a sewer system or a septic tank. Gina likes to offer the advice of her favorite plumber: “Don’t put anything in the toilet unless you’ve eaten it first.” If you want to experiment, consult your favorite plumber first or, at the very least, keep his number handy!

Tip

You’re better off sealing waste in plastic bags and putting the bags in your trash can for pickup. One more disposal alert: Public-health officials warn emphatically that you should never put the waste of a cat — or any carnivorous animal, such as a dog or ferret — in your garden compost pile. (The waste of plant-eating pets such as rabbits is fine, however.)

Kitty Come Home: Collars, Tags, and Microchips

Cat lovers are notoriously resistant to putting collars on their cats. Some just get tired of replacing the ones their cats keep slipping out of; other people are convinced that their roaming darlings may get caught on a tree branch by their collars and hang themselves.

Both groups are taking incredible chances with their pets’ lives. Cat collars are an inexpensive insurance against loss, and as for the danger of being collared, your cat is many times more at risk for being lost than caught by his collar.

Remember

If you let your cat roam, give him a ticket home with some form of ID.

Traditional ID

Cat collars are made of lightweight material and designed to “give” enough to enable your cat to wriggle free should the collar ever catch on something. Don’t get a puppy collar by mistake — dog collars are meant to prevent escapes, and cat collars are made to enable them. A wide choice of colors should keep any fashion sense happy, except your cat’s, who’d just as soon do without. The fit should be snug but not uncomfortably so — you should be able to slide your little finger underneath.

After you’ve got the right collar, order a tag. ID tags come in high-impact plastic in a variety of colors and shapes or in metal, also in many varieties, including circles, cat’s heads, reflectors, and so on. Because cat’s tags are small, don’t bother with putting your cat’s name on it — she’s not going to answer anyway. Instead, use the space to put your address and a couple extra phone numbers so that someone who finds your cat can locate you or a friend, neighbor, or relative of yours, day or night. If you’re concerned about dangling tags, look for those that attach flat to the collar.

The Cat’s Meow

We’ve been really happy with a service called 1-800-Help4Pets and feel better with that company’s tags on our pets’ collars. 1-800-Help4Pets is a round-the-clock hotline to help your pet get home. The service also provides for boarding or emergency veterinary care if you can’t be immediately located. (Information on the service can be found in the Additional Resources appendix.)

Cat Tracks

What about a bell to slow down a feline hunter? It couldn’t hurt, but some cats learn pretty quickly how to move without setting off the bird-warning device. The only sure way to keep your cat from hunting is to keep him inside. For tips on turning a free-roaming cat into an indoor one, see Chapter Getting the Relationship Started Right.

Tip

If your cat’s constantly coming home with nothing around his neck and you’re handy with a sewing machine, try Gina’s quick and easy way to keep IDs on your pet. Buy 3/8-inch elastic from a fabric store and order fabric name tags such as you’d put in children’s clothes when they go to camp. Measure the elastic for a close fit, attach the label with thread or glue, and then sew or glue the ends of the elastic together to make a collar. If you like, you can dress up the creation with rickrack or other accessories from the fabric store — just avoid anything your cat could chew off and swallow, such as sequins. Make these easy ID loops a dozen or so at a time, and your cat will never lack for a comfortable collar!

Figure 8-2: An ID tag is one piece of gear that can save your cat’s life, by getting him safely home if he ever becomes lost.

Technical Stuff

Some communities require free-roaming cats to be licensed as a way to offset the costs of handling strays and to ensure compliance with local rabies- vaccination requirements. To find out whether your community is one of these with licensing requirements for cats, call your local animal-control agency. In response to concern about dangling tags, some agencies issue tags that slip over collars, and a few offer the option of tiny ear tags.

Microchips

The microchip is permanent identification no bigger than a grain of rice, which your veterinarian imbeds under the skin over your pet’s shoulder blades by using a large needle. (But don’t worry: One yowl is about all you hear at most, and then the job’s done!)

Microchips have been of dubious value for returning lost pets in the past, however, because one company’s chips couldn’t be read by another company’s scanner, and shelters couldn’t and wouldn’t cope with competing systems. That’s changed, with moves by manufacturers toward one industry standard and with the entry of the American Kennel Club as a registry of microchipped animals in the United States and Canada — any animals, not just AKC-registered purebred dogs. The cost ranges from $20 to $50 to have your pet chipped by your veterinarian, but it’s a good investment in his safety.

Check with local pet-supply stores, cat and dog clubs, shelters, and veterinarians in your area for reduced-cost microchip clinics.

Tip

You should register your pet with AKC Companion Animal Recovery — 800-252-7894 — which offers 24-hour matchup service, 365 days a year. If someone calls to report finding your pet, the service releases your number so that you can be reunited with your baby quickly.

Most lost pets are found not by shelters but by neighbors, and neighbors don’t have microchip scanners in their collection of home appliances. Which is why, although we highly recommend a microchip for permanent ID of your cat, we also advise you to make sure that your cat wears a collar and ID tag — whether it’s one you ordered, a community-issued license tag, or one from a tracking service like 1-800-HELP4PETS — at all times, too. If someone hits your cat — sadly, a common occurrence with a free roaming pet — a tag at least ensures that you don’t keep wondering whether your pet is ever coming home. It’s a small consolation, but believe us, knowing the fate of your pet beats spending months wondering.

Cool Cat Facts

Walking the cat?

Indoor cats can be trained to enjoy an outing outdoors on leash, and for this treat, you need a harness. (Because cat collars are made to enable cats to slip out of them, don’t use a collar with a leash.) Choose a harness designed for cats, not for dogs, in a figure-8 design. Harnesses, like collars, come in many colors, with lightweight leashes to match. Don’t expect your cat to heel like a dog, however. Walking a cat consists of encouraging your pet to explore, with you following, offering plenty of praise and maybe a treat or two. Never leave your cat tethered and unattended, which leaves him vulnerable to attack or to a terrifying time of hanging suspended from his harness should he try to get over a fence.

A Place to Scratch

The most important thing to remember about scratching is that it’s as natural a part of your cat’s life as breathing. Your cat needs to scratch, and you need to provide him with a place to dig in his claws and pull.

What you need, in other words, is a scratching post, cat tree, or other scratching toy such as those that affix to corners or hang from doorknobs.

Remember

If you’re going to have any success in getting your cat to scratch where you want — instead of somewhere you don’t, such as the corner of your couch — you’re going to need to choose a scratching place that’s not only sturdy but also made of a material your pet can enjoy digging into.

Stability is important, because the first time a scratching post comes crashing down on your pet is the last time he ever uses it, rest assured. As far as material, sisal, a natural ropelike covering, is popular with cats, as is a carpet with loops that aren’t too shaggy.

Scratching posts are usually small, less than 3 feet in length, and either vertical on a wide base or horizontal, like a log — mimicking what cats like in the outdoors, some scratching posts are logs. (Or you can bring in a log on your own.)

The Cat’s Meow

The best investment you can make for your pet’s enjoyment is a tall cat tree with a top perch. Cats love to look down on people because doing so reinforces their belief in their own superiority! A cat tree also offers a nook for those moments when a cat simply can’t stand to be bothered with anyone. Some cat trees come with dangly toys attached, or you can add your own. Just make sure that anything attached or added is cat-safe — nothing that can be swallowed, such as strings or sequins.

If you’re even a little bit handy, you can make your own cat tree by using scrap lumber and carpet remnants. Check out do-it-yourself plans at your local library or home-improvement retailer.

Tip

You can make a scratching place even more appealing by adding catnip. More about catnip — why it makes some cats crazy — comes later in this chapter, in the sidebar “Catnip and other leafy delights.”

Cat Tracks

A scratching post, cat tree, or other scratching toy is an important part of training your cat to leave your furniture alone. See Chapter Solving Behavior Problems for tips on solving scratching problems. Clipping helps keep your cat’s claws in shape; see Chapter Good Grooming for directions on how to clip your pet’s nails without injuring either one of you.

Figure 8-3: A good cat tree is stable and offers lots of options for playing, napping, or hiding.

Sweet Dreams: Beds

Have you ever heard the old joke about the 800-pound gorilla? No? Let us enlighten you:

Question: Where does an 800-pound gorilla sleep? Answer: Anywhere he wants.

Now apply that to your 8-pound cat, because honestly, the answer is pretty close to the same. Within the limits of your tolerance (keeping your cat off your kitchen counters, for example) and his safety (keeping him out of clothes dryers), your cat is going to sleep pretty much anywhere he wants: Your couch. Your bed. Your clean clothes. Your dirty clothes, should you be sloppy enough to leave them where your cat can find them. Not to mention your lap, the top of your computer monitor, your chest, the top of your TV, your face, your bathroom sink, your feet, and the top of the book you’re reading, especially if you’re trying to turn the page.

That doesn’t mean that you can’t — or shouldn’t — get your cat a bed of his own. After all, consider the matter from the infallible vantage point of cat logic: As your cat sees things, what’s his is his and what’s yours is his. Got a problem with it?

One of the best beds you can offer your cat is actually on top of a cat tree, a perch perfect for snoozing high above the humans and even lesser beings, such as dogs. Cat perches that affix to window sills also provide your cat a place to nap while the world goes by, as well as offering an indoor cat the opportunity to sun himself.

Comfortable places to sleep are important to cats, who manage to spend nearly two-thirds of their lives with their eyes closed.

Soft, round “cup” or “cuddler” beds are popular with some cats, and cushions are a hit with others. Hammocks are just the ticket for some as well. You just need to experiment to see which your cat prefers.

Cat Tracks

Fabric beds can harbor flea eggs and larvae, so make sure any bed you buy has a removable cover for frequent washing. For more tips on controlling fleas, see Chapter Good Grooming.

Bowls and Waterers

As with everything else concerning your cat, her food and water bowls must be acceptable to her, or you’ve wasted your money. In addition, they also must be made of a material that doesn’t scratch — food particles and bacteria can collect in tiny gashes — and that can be completely cleaned, preferably in the dishwasher.

For the most part, that’s going to mean stainless steel or high-impact plastic crock-style dishes. Fortunately, the latter come in colors and patterns to fit any decor, and some specialty catalogs and boutiques also allow you to order personalized dishes.

Caution

Plastic dishes are suspected in causing some skin lesions on the face of cats. If a cat develops frontal face, chin, or lip lesions, changing from plastic bowls to another type is a good idea.

Some cats share food dishes readily, but many don’t. Some share a supply of dry food from a single dish but require their own individual servings of canned food — at room temperature, puh-lease! If your cats are hissy about sharing, keep food dishes for each cat and feed your babies with some distance between them.

Remember

The most important advice about dishes is to keep them clean. Cats are fastidious, especially about their water, and many turn up their nose at any sign of old food or stale water.

Figure 8-4: No water bowl will satisfy some cats, such as this one who drinks straight from the tap.

The Cat’s Meow

Innovations abound in the pet-dish area. Some feeders allow you to leave enough food for a weekend, releasing each meal to your cat at preset intervals. Another product is designed for multicat households where one cat eats more than his share and the other one’s finicky. The greedy cat wears a collar that triggers a discouraging tone if he gets near the other cat’s dish!

Water dishes haven’t been neglected by cat-loving inventors either. Although dishes with a reservoir of water have been available for a long time, some new water dishes play to the cat’s love of water by providing water that’s so fresh it’s still running . These products constantly recycle water through the unit.

The biggest problem with water dishes with reservoirs attached is that you can too easily forget to keep them clean. These units need to be broken down daily and given a good scrubbing, because cats prefer their water fresh.

Cat Tracks

All you need to know about what to put in that fancy cat dish is in Chapter Feeding Your Cat.

Home Away from Home: The Carrier

Every cat needs his own carrier. A sturdy carrier makes going to the veterinarian’s, traveling, or moving safer and easier for your pet and offers you some options in times of disasters.

Cat Tracks

The right cat carrier can make introductions to other cats and pets easier, too. For more information, see Chapter Getting the Relationship Started Right.

Even the best carriers are a bargain at less than $25 or so if you shop around, and the chances are good that you can pick up one for next to nothing from yard or estate sales. Look for a carrier that provides your cat with a feeling of security and the ability to look out at the world. The ones we like are made of two pieces of high-impact plastic with small vents along the top, the top and bottom held together by bolts, and with a grid door of stainless steel.

Don’t choose the following types of carriers:

• One that’s all wire: Your cat is made even more nervous by being exposed on all sides.
• One made of wicker: Although they may look attractive, you need something you can clean thoroughly if accidents happen. (And they always do!)
• One made of cardboard: The cardboard carrier you may have gotten at the time you adopted your cat or kitten is fine for taking him home, but it isn’t durable enough to rely on in the long run.

A high-quality cat carrier is an inexpensive investment in your cat’s safety. Don’t neglect the purchase.

Cat Tracks

Carriers figure into many parts of your cat’s life. For tips on making your cat’s trip to the veterinarian easier, see Chapter Preventive Health Care for Your Cat. For information on traveling or moving with your cat, see Chapter Out and About with Your Cat. And finally, for everything you need to know to protect your cat in a disaster, see Chapter Ten Things to Know in Case of Disaster.

The Ins and Outs of Cat Doors

So exactly why does the cat who just came in suddenly want to go out — and vice versa? Is he just trying to drive you crazy? Well . . . not exactly.

Cats like to keep an eye on their territory, and if their territory includes a piece of the outdoors, they’re going to want to check on it frequently. And after they’re out, who’s looking after the indoor turf? The cat needs to come inside to check.

Remember

Installing a cat door can end your days as door opener, giving your cat the opportunity to come and go as he pleases. But that’s not all cat doors do. Some cat lovers have installed cat doors in interior doors as a way to keep dogs (dogs larger than a cat, that is) out of the room with the litter box. A cat door doesn’t need to lead to the outdoors either: Putting one in as a gateway to a screened porch is a great way to give your indoor cat access to the smells and sounds of the world at large.

The basic cat door has a flexible plastic flap that opens as your cat pushes on it and seals shut again with magnets to keep the heat, cold, or wind out after he’s passed through. Although these flaps are plenty weatherproof in sunnier climes such as California, where Gina and Paul live — with pet doors in both their houses — they may be a little drafty in areas with more-severe winters.

Gina has known people who’ve built sort of an airlock onto their houses: a tunnel with pet doors at both ends to minimize drafts. (Although she admires such ingenuity, on the whole, such cold-climate necessities make her happy to live in California.)

You have a couple options in installing cat doors. If you have a sliding glass door, you can buy panels with a pet door built in that fit on the end of the slider. If you have problems with neighbor cats coming in, you can find cat doors that work electronically, opening only for those cats wearing a collar with a special, battery-operated transmitter.

Cool Cat Facts

Other cats aren’t the only animals who can learn to use your cat’s door. Raccoons and opossums can, too, and so can skunks. One of Gina’s friends learned this the hard way after she walked into her laundry porch and surprised a skunk dining eagerly on dry cat food. We’re not sure whether the smell ever completely disappeared from her house. (For information on how to get skunk smell off your cat, see Chapter Good Grooming.)

The other problem with cat doors is the things your cat can bring through them. Gina’s neighbors have a black-and-white tomcat who once brought a full-grown blue jay through the cat door — and released the terrified bird in the living room!

Teaching your cat to use a cat door

After you install your cat door, just leave it be for a week or so until your cat takes its presence for granted. (Remember always that cats aren’t keen on change.) To teach him to use the door, tape the flap up securely for a few days so that he comes to appreciate the fact that he can conveniently come and go on his own schedule through this magic portal. (And we do mean securely. If your cat gets clobbered by the flap, it takes a long time to coax him near it again.) Then put the flap down and put a little butter or margarine on the bottom edge of the flap and encourage him with tasty treats and praise from the other side. You can also drag toys on a string through, encouraging him to chase them. Repeat these lessons in very short intervals over the course of several days, and your cat gets the hang of it, sure enough. If you have a cat who already uses the cat door, you usually don’t need to do anything. Your new cat or kitten learns from the other cat. (Or even from your dog, if the pet door is shared.)

Cool Toys for Your Cat

At last, the fun part! For an indoors-only cat, toys aren’t a luxury: They’re an important way to keep your pet exercised, and they fight boredom and help to form a strong bond of companionship between you and your pet. As with everything else regarding cats, the choices in cat toys are many and getting even more varied by the day, as cat-loving entrepreneurs try to create a cat toy that sells millions.

Cool Cat Facts

One of the earliest cat toys was invented by Dr. A. C. Daniels, who patented his Catnip Ball in 1907. The wooden ball was hollow for putting catnip in — his own special brand, preferably. The ball was followed by other catnip toys, and the company, founded in Boston in 1878, is still making cat toys today.

The best you can buy

You can spend a lot of money on cat toys, including some pretty nifty battery-operated gadgets that whirl mice around on tracks or pull pieces of fluff around the room. Remote-control mice are available, too, complete with a wireless control — batteries not included, of course.

The Cat’s Meow

Your cat can have some fun with all of these to be sure, but we’ve found that some of the best cat toys don’t cost much at all. At the top of the list are “cat fishing poles” that have bangles, feathers, or a stuffed toy at the end of a sturdy string tied to a flexible pole. These toys allow you to play with your cat (a good thing) without letting your pet learn that pouncing on your fingers or hands is okay (a bad thing).

Little fur mice are fun, too, as are balls with little jingle bells inside. Save the squeaky toys for your dog, however, because you cat probably isn’t going to like them. Other hits include toys stuffed with catnip, as well as Ping-Pong or foam balls, pipe cleaners twisted into fun shapes, or even rabbits’ feet.

Knock yourself out experimenting! We guarantee that your cat’s not going to mind. Just make sure that you check out every toy for safety, eliminating anything your cat can swallow.

Freebies cats love

Speaking of cat toys, some of the best things in life are free — or nearly so. When Gina ran a cat-toy poll in her Pet Connection column, the top toys all were freebies, and number one on the list were the plastic rings that hold down the lids on plastic milk jugs.

Figure 8-5: Cat toys come in all shapes and sizes, with the single aim of keeping your cat entertained.

Cool Cat Facts

Plastic rings aren’t the only popular freebie. Many cats like empty cardboard boxes and empty paper grocery bags. (Put away the plastics ones, however, because they can suffocate your cat.) Some other favorite playthings include folded empty cigarette packs (or the wrappers off them), drinking straws, the clear plastic safety rings around cottage cheese or sour cream lids, and the centers of toilet-paper, tape, and calculator rolls.

For the cat who loves to retrieve, try wadded-up tissues or paper, or the corks from wine or champagne bottles. Empty plastic film containers are great to bat around, as are nuts in their shells and even small vegetables such as Brussels sprouts or baby carrots.

Caution

Freebies that can turn dangerous are string, floss, ribbon, twine, rubber bands, or anything that your cat can swallow. You’re best advised not to use these things at all in play, but if you do, make doubly sure that you put them completely away after the game is over.

More Fun Stuff

You don’t find too much in the way of dress-up for your cat, mostly because your cat has too much dignity to put up with some of the really silly things dogs do. But if you want to go nuts with cat-related items for yourself, plenty of possibilities are around.

Figure 8-6: The best toys are often free — including bubbles!

We could write a whole separate chapter on cat-themed stuff you can buy for you: bumper stickers and T-shirts; plates and cups; calendars and stationery; wind chimes, mailboxes, and tote bags; and jewelry, both kitchy and fine. You’re going to find all this stuff on your own, and you’re probably going to buy a lot of it. And we’re not going to stop you, because we’ve got plenty of these things, too.

Cat shows, craft fairs, online auctions, and high-end pet boutiques are great places to look for these items — and you can have a lot of fun doing it. And no, you can’t have Gina’s hand-painted Siamese tile. Don’t even ask.

Catnip and other leafy delights

Not all cats like catnip — the ability to appreciate the herb is genetically programmed, with slightly more cats in the fan club than not. Catnip — Nepeta cataria for you botanists — produces bouts of ecstasy for those cats who like the stuff. A substance called nepetalactone that’s present in the leaves and stems causes the behavior, which lasts for just a few minutes and can include rolling, rubbing, leaping, purring, and general uninhibited happiness. Kittens under the age of 3 months do not react to catnip, and even in those cats who truly adore the “high,” the plant is nonaddictive and harmless. Valerian is another herb that makes cats happy, and the two can be grown as part of a cat garden. For more on cat-safe plants, for nibbling or for fun, see Chapter Feeding Your Cat.

by Gina Spadafori and Paul D. Pion