Preventive Health Care for Your Cat

In This Chapter

  • Understanding what’s normal and abnormal in your cat
  • Choosing and working with the right veterinarian
  • Visiting your veterinarian for an annual exam and vaccinations
  • Recognizing health emergencies

Where your cat’s health is concerned, one person makes all the difference in the world as to how long and how well your cat lives. Want to guess who that one person is? Your veterinarian, you say? Great guess — and a very important person, to be sure. Now try again.

You could have — and should have — a top-notch veterinarian, someone who’s up-to-date on recent advances in veterinary medicine, someone who is not afraid to say “I don’t know, but I’ll find out” or to suggest a referral to a specialist. You need someone with whom your cat is relaxed and you are comfortable enough to ask all the questions you need to. But unless you’re living with your veterinarian, the most important health-care provider in your cat’s life is indisputably you.

Remember

You are the person who sees your cat every day, who feeds her, and keeps her litter box clean. You are the one who knows where she likes to sleep and how much and how well she grooms herself. You are the expert on the sound of her voice, which toys are her favorites, and the way she likes to sit on the counter in the bathroom and watch you wash your face in the morning.

More than anyone else, you are the person who knows whether anything about your cat isn’t “normal.” Your powers of observation are the ones that keep her healthy — and maybe save her life. And we want to help you improve those powers.

But this duty involves more than just being a keen observer. Your role in keeping your cat healthy also includes at-home preventive care, such as keeping her teeth clean, as well as the important task of choosing the right veterinarian. The latter is essential, because even though you are the most important element in keeping your cat healthy, you have a partner — and that partner is your veterinarian. Choosing the right one for you and for your cat — and learning how to work with him and his staff efficiently — is essential for your pet’s well-being.

Cat Tracks

Another part of your responsibility to your cat is keeping her well groomed. Grooming is about more than good looks — it’s another part of your cat’s preventive-care regimen. For the right tools and techniques to keep your cat’s coat healthy, see Chapter Good Grooming.

Figure 11-1: A happy, healthy cat is the result of good preventive care, and you play the biggest role in ensuring that your cat gets it.

Recognizing Signs of Good Health and Bad

Because the signs of illness in cats are often subtle, a cat lover must be a keen observer to spot illness early. The detective work starts before you even suspect that your cat is ill and includes a few of the same kinds of basic diagnostic tools a veterinarian uses.

Tip

Make observing your pet a part of your everyday routine. A more thorough going-over should be on your weekly to-do list, but you don’t have to make a big production out of it. Just incorporate the health check into a session that begins with petting and ends with your cat’s favorite game — or more petting, if that’s what your cat prefers. After all, anything that you and your pet find enjoyable you continue to do on a regular basis, and routine health checks need to be regular to be useful.

The physical cat

To identify a potential health problem, you must be able to recognize what is normal for your pet. Hone your instincts and then learn to trust them! You know your cat better than anyone else, and you’re the one to decide when to get help. Sometimes your cat’s condition may be so serious it leaves no doubt that you’ll need a veterinarian, but other times, especially in those cats who do little during the course of a normal day, changes are so subtle you could easily miss them — and recognizing and dealing with these subtle signs of illness promptly is important.

Tip

To help you keep on track of changes in your pet, we recommend that you keep a monthly log and record your findings in each of the areas we discuss in this section. Again, it doesn’t have to be a big production. A simple notebook and a few jottings are all it takes to spot some little problems before they become big ones. If you find that your readings match our description of what’s “abnormal,” consult your veterinarian. Some things to watch for include the following:

  • General appearance: Before starting a hands-on exam, stand back and look at your pet for a few minutes. Consider his posture, activity level, gait, coat, and overall appearance for an impression of good health. Abnormal: Exposed skin, thin or dry coat, ribs showing, sluggishness, outright limping or just lack of “spring” in the step, or other subtle signs you can pin down only as being “just not right.”
  • Weight: The hardest thing about weighing your cat is weighing yourself, but you must. Step on the scale with your cat, note the weight, and then step back on alone. Subtract your weight from the total to get your cat’s weight. A normal cat weighs about 8 to 10 pounds, but the range is wide, depending on gender and breed. Really big cats such as the Maine Coon can be well over 11 pounds and be perfectly normal.

Cat Tracks

Your cat is normal for his body type if a comfortable pad of fat lies over his ribs but you can still feel the ribs if you press your hands gently in, or palpate. (You can find more on weight issues in Chapter Feeding Your Cat.) After you determine your cat’s ideal weight, a difference of a half-pound up or down is normal over the course of a few months; anything more rapid or more weight loss is reason for concern. Abnormal: More than a pound of gain or loss — or less if very abrupt — or too little or too much fat overall, even if the weight remains constant; swelling of the belly.

  • Nose: Moist and clean. Abnormal: Dry, cracked, scabbed, or irritated; nasal discharge; or bleeding.
  • Eyes: Bright, moist, and clear, centered between the eyelids, with the pupils of equal size. The whites of the eye should not appear colored and should have only a few visible blood vessels. The pupils should shrink equally as bright light is shined into either eye (test this with a penlight) and enlarge if the cat is excited or scared, if eyes are held closed, or the room is darkened. Abnormal: Eyes that are dull or sunken, that appear dry, or have thick discharge. One or both eyes not centered or pupils of unequal size. Yellow, muddy brown, or bloodshot eyes. Pupils that fail to respond or respond differently to changes in the intensity of light.
  • Ears: The skin should be, clean, dry, smooth, and without wounds. The ear canal should be clean and almost odor free. Abnormal: Swelling, wounds or scabs, or any sign of a rash. Crust, moisture, discharge, or strong odor in the ear canal. Pain at the touch or an unusual way of holding the head or ears.
  • The mouth: Your cat’s teeth should be clean and white, with gums that are uniformly pink. Press on your pet’s gum with your finger or thumb and release quickly. The color will become white where you pressed the gum but should return to the same color as the surrounding tissue within one or two seconds. This exercise checks the capillary refill time, or CRT, and is a crude assessment of how well the heart and circulatory system are working. Abnormal: Loose or missing teeth, tartar (discolored, crusty buildup around the base of the teeth) or gums that are red or blue, pale, inflamed, or sore, as well as gums that recede from the tooth. A swollen tongue, lumps and bumps in the mouth, sores in the mouth, big tonsils visible at the back of the mouth. A rapid or slow CRT.
  • Breathing: You should find that hearing your pet breathe is difficult, and his chest wall should move easily to and fro as he does. Most of the act of breathing should be performed by the chest wall. His abdominal (or stomach) wall should barely move. Abnormal: Any unusual noise heard while the pet is breathing, such as “crackles” or wheezes, could indicate a problem, especially if you haven’t noticed the sound before. Breathing that is labored, rapid, or done with an open mouth, and excessively involves the abdomen. Lumps, bumps, or masses on the chest and neck may also indicate a problem.
  • The abdomen: Start just behind the ribs and gently press your hands into the abdomen. If your pet has just eaten, you may be able to feel an enlargement in the left part of the abdomen just under the ribs. Proceed toward the rear of your pet, passing your hands gently over the abdomen. You should find no lumps, bumps, or masses, and your pet should feel no discomfort as you press gently into him. Some bumps in the abdomen are normal — they’re internal organs, such as the kidneys, and they belong there! Starting with a healthy cat is important, as is doing your health checks regularly, because you’ll get a sense of what bumps belong there — and what do not. Abnormal: Any lump, bump, or mass that you’re not used to feeling but that is consistently present when you check. Your cat groans or has difficulty breathing as you palpate. A hard, tense, or swollen abdomen.
  • Fluid levels: Check to ensure that your cat has enough fluids by pulling the skin just behind his shoulder blades into a tent and then releasing quickly. Your pet’s skin should snap immediately back into position. Another good sign of proper hydration is that the gums just above the teeth are moist when touched. Abnormal: The skin returns slowly or remains slightly tented. The gums are dry and tacky when touched, or the eyes have a “sunken” appearance.

Vital signs

Although a hands-on exam is an essential part of determining what’s normal for your cat so you can spot problems early, three other diagnostic tools ought to be in every cat lover’s bag of tricks: taking your cat’s temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate. This information is useful if you call your veterinarian and can help him determine whether you need to bring your pet in and what he may be facing after you get there.

Remember

The time to learn how to take your cat’s heart rate, respiratory rate, and temperature is before you’re faced with a sick cat. Practice at home whenever you and your pet are relaxed. If you’re having difficulty, ask your veterinarian to demonstrate the next time you take your cat in for routine preventive care.

Here’s how to perform these important tasks:

  • Taking your cat’s temperature: Although you can find a special thermometer for pets in any pet-supply catalog or well-equipped pet-supply store, you can also use an ordinary glass mercury or digital-readout “people” device from your pharmacy.

Tip

If you use a “people” thermometer, be sure you put a piece of tape around it marked “cat” or something similar so you’ll never accidentally use it on yourself. We don’t care how clean it is — you won’t want that thermometer in your mouth after it has been in your pet’s fanny.

Lubricate the thermometer with petroleum jelly or a water-based lubricant, such as K-Y. Gently and slowly insert the thermometer about one or two inches into your cat’s rectum. (If the instrument doesn’t slide in easily or your cat objects, don’t force it.)

Leave the thermometer in place for two minutes and then read and record the temperature. In a normal cat, the temperature should be between 100 degrees and 102.5 degrees (a little higher is fine in a normal cat on hot days), and the thermometer should be almost clean after it’s removed. Call your veterinarian if your cat’s temperature is below 99 degrees or above 103 degrees, or if you see evidence of mucous, blood, diarrhea, or a black, tarry stool on the thermometer.

  • Taking your cat’s heart rate: Feel your cat’s heartbeat with one hand over his left side, behind the front leg. Count the number of beats in 15 seconds and multiply by four to get the heart rates in beats per minute, or bpm. A normal cat is between 140 and 220 bpm, with a relaxed cat on the lower end of the scale. Call your veterinarian if your cat’s heart rate is too rapid, is too slow, or is irregular.
  • Taking your cat’s respiratory rate: Stand back a bit and watch your cat breathe when he is relaxed and standing. Watch the abdomen and chest wall move. Often it is easier to count the respiratory rate when you watch the abdomen move. Count the number of movements in 60 seconds to get the respiratory rates in breaths per minute. A normal cat is between 15 and 25 breaths per minute, with a relaxed cat on the lower end of the scale. Don’t try to count the respiratory rate when your cat is hot, or excited and panting. Call your veterinarian if your cat’s respiratory rate is too rapid.

Tip

You may find taking your cat’s temperature and heart rate easier if someone else holds the animal, especially if you’re just learning.

Remember

If you go to the trouble of measuring temperature, heart rate, and respiratory rate, write it down in a log with the date it was done. Compare future observations to what you measured before. Call your veterinarian if you notice sudden changes or marked and gradual changes over time.

Figure 11-2: Practice taking your cat’s temperature before he’s sick so you’ll know what to do when you have to.

The emotional cat

You must be aware not only of your cat’s body, but also of his personality. Many times, behavioral changes noticed by cat owners are later confirmed as illnesses through the use of such diagnostic tools as blood or urine tests. Again, your instincts are sometimes better than you know! Always be aware of the subtle changes in your pet’s behavior, especially regarding the following areas:

  • Changes in eating habits, especially loss of appetite: Be aware of how much your cat eats and make a mental note of any changes. More than a day without eating is reason for concern. In a multicat household of free feeders, you may have a hard time figuring who’s eating what. Make a conscious effort to see each of your cats at the food dish daily, and if you give them canned rations once a day, feed them separately. Be aware, however, that if your cat is an outdoor cat, his appetite may be influenced by his hunting and by the generosity of your neighbors.
  • Changes in litter-box habits: Many times, a “behavior” problem is really a health problem, and avoiding the litter box or using it more often than normal is one of the classic examples. A cat with an undiagnosed urinary-tract infection or diabetes, for example, may break his normal patterns of litter-box use. He’s not “bad” — he’s sick!
  • Changes in drinking habits: Cats drink more in the summer than in the winter, but even taking that into consideration, you should be aware of changes in your cat’s drinking habits — too much or too little.
  • Changes in grooming: If you notice your cat looking unkempt, he likely has a problem, especially if he’s normally fastidious. Grooming is one of the most important parts of a cat’s routine, and the cat who isn’t taking care of his coat isn’t well.
  • Changes in voice: You know what’s normal for your cat — how often she pipes up and how she sounds when she does. If your cat is noisier than usual or more quiet or the sounds she makes are different, something is going on.

Cat Tracks

For more on nutrition, see Chapter Feeding Your Cat. Tips for figuring out why your cat won’t use the litter box are in Chapter Getting Good Litter Box Behavior. Grooming — your part and your cat’s — is covered in more depth in Chapter Good Grooming. When does your cat need to see a veterinarian immediately? See the sidebar “Emergency!” later in this chapter.

Choosing a Veterinarian

If you’re going to have a healthy pet, you need the help of a veterinarian. And although some people believe that these health-care professionals are pretty much interchangeable, distinguished only by convenience and price, perhaps, we feel you’re doing your pet a disservice if you don’t put a little effort into choosing the right veterinarian.

Cat Tracks

The cost of veterinary care is a legitimate consideration, of course, and pet health insurance may help ease your worries if your cat becomes ill. For more information on health insurance for pets, see Chapter Common Cat Health Problems.

To work effectively with your veterinarian, you need to develop a relationship over time so she can build a history and become familiar with you and your cat. Group practices are great — two, three, four, or more heads are often better than one when your cat is ill and the diagnosis is not immediately obvious. Even within a group practice, though, working with one veterinarian as your pet’s primary caregiver is best.

The Cat’s Meow

One of the biggest changes in veterinary medicine in the last decade is that many veterinarians who practice on their own aren’t really alone anymore. With a subscription to the Internet’s Veterinary Information Network (www.vin.com), a solo practitioner can be part of a group practice of more than 6,000 associates who help each other with difficult cases every day. Paul is one of VIN’s founders, and he has worked hard to make this service provide all the help your veterinarian needs so that she can provide the best and most-up-to-date care for your cat.

Your veterinarian should be technically proficient, current on the latest treatments, and willing to seek out more information on your pet’s behalf or work with a veterinary specialist. She should be articulate, be able to explain what’s going on with your cat in a way you can understand, and be willing to answer your questions so you can make a responsible decision on your pet’s behalf. Above all, you must be able to trust your veterinarian. After all, knowing what goes on in a veterinarian’s office after you leave your pet behind is impossible.

If you have any concerns, share them with your veterinarian. She will be happy to arrange a hospital tour and show you exactly how and where your cat goes when taken from you for care. Be understanding if the tour needs to be arranged. Like the ER you see on TV, things can get pretty hectic in the back areas of a veterinary hospital. The time when you ask for a tour might not be a good time.

Tip

Before you choose a veterinarian, ask friends, coworkers, and neighbors for recommendations. Over the years, animal lovers can tell which veterinarians are knowledgeable, compassionate, and hardworking. Those veterinarians are always talked up by satisfied clients.

Other factors may help you narrow down your list of possibilities:

  • Is the clinic or hospital conveniently located, with hours you can live with? If you have a 9-to-5 job, a veterinarian with a 9-to-5 clinic doesn’t do your pet much good. Many veterinarians are open late on at least one week night and for at least a half-day on Saturday, or they’re willing to make other arrangements to see you and your pet.
  • Does the veterinarian consult with a veterinary college staff or independent or in-house specialists, or does he subscribe to an online veterinary service? A willingness to discuss tough cases with colleagues is the sign of a veterinarian who’s putting in effort on your pet’s behalf. Online services also assist veterinarians in getting to the bottom of a tough case, as well as offering continuing education and searchable databases of professional journals.
  • What kind of emergency care is available, if any? Although emergency veterinary clinics are prepared for any catastrophe, they’re not familiar with your pet. If your veterinarian’s practice does not offer 24-hour care, does it work with one that does?
  • Do you feel a rapport with this person? Are you comfortable asking questions? Discussing fees? The final call on whether a particular veterinarian is right for you comes down to intangibles. If you don’t feel comfortable, you’re less likely to deal with your veterinarian, and the lack of productive communication hurts your pet in the long run.
  • Will your cat be comfortable here? You need a practice that runs efficiently enough so that your cat isn’t stuck for very long in a waiting room full of dogs. You may also want to consider a feline-only practice, or one with a separate waiting room for cats.The American Association of Feline Practitioners reports that more than 350 cats-only practices are now open in the United States and Canada, nearly triple the amount from a decade ago. Some of them are even staffed by one of the newest veterinary specialists: board-certified feline practitioners. None of which is to say that a general practice can’t do well by your cat. We just want you to know all your options.

The Cat’s Meow

The Veterinary Information Network offers a free veterinary-referral service at www.vetquest.com. More than 25,000 veterinary practices are in the VetQuest database, and the service even shows you a street map to help you find the hospital or clinic you choose.

Understanding Your Veterinarian’s Role in Preventing Illness

Preventive care is easier on you, your cat, and your bank account, which is why you should take advantage of all the measures available today, starting with a thorough annual examination and continuing with vaccines, dental care, and parasite control.

Cat Tracks

Spaying and neutering are also among the most important preventive-health measures. For more information on these routine surgical procedures, see Chapter Littering: Should Your Cat Become a Parent?.

The not-so-routine exam

The cornerstone of your cat’s preventive-health regimen is an annual examination by your veterinarian. This important visit is the time for your veterinarian to go over your cat from ear tip to tail tip, slowly and thoroughly, examining every inch for abnormalities, adding to your pet’s medical history, and comparing to his past observations. His staff may have already recorded your cat’s temperature and pulse rate, but he listens to the sounds of your pet’s heart and breathing and gently presses into your pet’s body to ensure that internal organs feel normal and that no lumps or masses are present.

Eyes, ears, nose, and mouth all get a good look, too, and your veterinarian asks you questions about your cat’s habits. Your cat can’t speak for himself, so his body and his owner must speak for him.

Tip

Prepare for your cat’s annual visit by reviewing your own observations regarding the condition of your cat. Write down any questions you have and make sure that you ask them while you’re there.

Vaccinations

Call them “shots” if you want, but vaccinations deserve a lot of respect for cutting the rates of infectious disease in cats. A series of vaccines for kittens and annual vaccines for cats are still believed to be one of the best ways to ensure good health for your cat — even though these preventive-health measures continue to evolve as research expands the body of knowledge in feline medicine.

Remember

Be aware that the need for annual boosters beyond the initial kitten series and the first annual booster is being re-evaluated for many of the vaccines given today. The right regimen for each vaccine is not yet known, although the law dictates what must be followed for rabies in each state. Let your veterinarian know that you are interested in discussing the pros and cons of vaccinations and how often they should be repeated. Recommendations for each vaccine will likely change over the next few years.

Technical Stuff

Vaccines work by putting a tiny amount of a disease-causing virus or other microorganism into your cat, challenging her immune system to create disease-fighting antibodies. Should your pet ever come in contact with the actual disease-causing body, her system will be able to recognize it and will be prepared to fight it. Many vaccines are killed, meaning that the disease-causing organism has been rendered lifeless before injection, or modified-live, which means it has been altered so it no longer produces the signs of the disease. Although each acts slightly differently in the body, the result, ideally, is the same: an immune system ready to fight the “real” infectious agents should they ever turn up. (We say “ideally” because no vaccine is 100 percent effective and safe.)

Caution

Should you pass on vaccines because they’re not 100 percent safe or effective? We don’t think it’s in your cat’s best interest. An occasional cat will develop an “allergic” reaction to a vaccine, and these usually become apparent quickly and are managed by your veterinarian. To ensure that this very uncommon complication does not become serious, keep your cat confined and observe her for a few hours after the vaccine is given. If you have any questions or concerns, call or return to your veterinarian.

Another concern regarding vaccines: Some cats will develop a malignant tumor at the site where certain shots are given (generally in the area between the shoulder blades) The incidence of this complication is low — about one cat per 10,000 vaccinated — and is currently thought to be associated with the feline leukemia (FeLV) or rabies vaccines. For help in protecting your cat, see the section “The risk factor,” later in this chapter.

Remember

Remember the following regarding vaccines:

  • Do not use cancer or allergic reactions as a reason to avoid getting your cat vaccinated. You are much more likely to lose your unvaccinated cat to one of the diseases we vaccinate against, than you are to ever see a tumor in your cat because of vaccination.
  • Pay special attention to your kittens. Young cats are especially fragile — do not even consider skipping the kitten series and first annual booster.

The protection factor

Several vaccines are available to protect your cat from disease; you need to discuss with your veterinarian which are appropriate and at which intervals they need to be administered. (See the following section, “The risk factor,” for more information on vaccine concerns.) Here’s some information on the vaccinations you’re offered for your cat:

  • The common combination vaccine, called FVRCP, protects your cat against three diseases: feline panleukopenia, feline rhinotracheitis, and feline calicivirus. (The initials of the vaccine stand for Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis, Calicivirus, Panleukopenia.) Protection against an additional disease, feline chlamydiosis, may be part of this combination vaccine; ask your veterinarian.
  • Vaccination against rabies is required by law in many areas but should be part of your cat’s regimen even if it’s not — for your health as well as your cat’s. (See the sidebar “The deadly danger of rabies,” later in this chapter.)
  • The vaccine against the feline leukemia virus, or FeLV, should not be considered until and unless your cat tests negative for the disease. Experts disagree on whether this vaccine is a good idea for indoor cats; the decision is yours after talking to your veterinarian. For cats likely to come into contact with other felines, the vaccine provides important protection against this deadly contagious disease.
  • The latest addition to the disease regimen is a vaccine for feline infectious peritonitis, or FIP. Cats in multicat households are at the highest risk for FIP, whereas most household pets are considered at low risk. Serious concerns regarding this vaccine have been raised recently. In general, Paul (and more importantly, those colleagues he trusts to guide him in this area) does not recommend widespread use of the FIP vaccine. Discuss with your veterinarian whether your pet needs this vaccine.

Cat Tracks

We provide information on common cat diseases, including FIP and FeLV, in Chapter Common Cat Health Problems.

The risk factor

In recent years, cat lovers have been horrified by reports of deadly cancer caused by something that’s supposed to save the lives of their cats — routine vaccinations. Unfortunately, this disease, called vaccine-associated feline sarcoma or feline vaccine-site sarcoma, is more than a rumor, and it has claimed the lives of hundreds of cats. At present, this problem does not seem to be related to the routine upper respiratory vaccines (FVRCP).

Rather, researchers now believe that these tumors occur in very low incidence in cats inoculated with feline leukemia (FeLV) or rabies vaccines. Research and controversy continue, so check with your veterinarian for the latest information and recommendations.

Nor is anyone quite sure why this problem occurs, and the risk is low compared to the dangers of not vaccinating your cat — risks not only to your cat’s health, but also, in the case of rabies, to your own. To protect your cat, you should take the following precautions:

  • At your pet’s annual examination, discuss with your veterinarian which vaccines your cat really needs. Because of the number of cats infected with rabies — since 1981, more cats than dogs in the United States have been diagnosed with rabies — rabies protection is not only important but is required by law in an increasing number of places. Your cat may not need to be vaccinated against feline leukemia, however, if he’s kept indoors and doesn’t interact with other cats.
  • Discuss with your veterinarian the location of the vaccine injections, and ask her to use single-agent vaccines instead of ones that protect against a combination of diseases. Recent recommendations include giving each vaccine in a specific location to help confirm which vaccines are responsible for any problem and to allow for more treatment options should such a problem develop.
  • Make sure your veterinarian notes the vaccination sites on your pet’s health record, as well as information on the vaccines, such as the name of the manufacturer and the serial number.
  • Be aware of any lumps at the vaccine sites. A small lump immediately after vaccination is normal, but call your veterinarian if the lump grows or persists beyond three weeks.

Kittens and vaccinations

For cats, vaccinations have historically been a part of the yearly checkup recommended for all cats. Kittens, however, need a series of vaccinations to protect them as they grow.

Kittens pick up antibodies from their mothers through the placenta and in the special milk, called colostrum, that they drink in the first two days of their lives. These antibodies diminish over time, but until they do, they not only protect the kitten against disease, but they also may block the usefulness of any vaccine.

Although it can be determined exactly when a kitten’s maternal antibodies have fallen to the point where a vaccine is necessary, doing so is impractical, so veterinarians give a series of shots to ensure that the kitten is protected.

The first combination vaccine is given after a kitten first visits the veterinarian. If the first shot is given at 6 weeks, others are given at 9, 12, and 16 weeks. If the first shot is given at 8 weeks, the others come at 12 and 16 weeks of age.

Kittens are tested for feline leukemia, and if the owner decides to vaccinate, those shots come at 12 and 16 weeks. Feline infectious peritonitis is a controversial vaccine that should be considered only for cats in large multicat households or breeding operations. Talk to your veterinarian about when the vaccine should be given, if at all.

When to vaccinate for rabies is often determined by law; doing so at 12 to 16 weeks is fairly routine, followed by revaccinations one year later and then every two or three years. (The actual frequency likely depends on the law in your area.)

If you are getting multiple vaccinations for your kitten, many veterinarians advise clients to spread the vaccines out and not have more than one or two inoculations given in any one visit. If too many shots are administered at one time, the potential for reactions or interactions may be greater.

Remember

Above all, remember that the risk of not vaccinating far outweighs the risk of vaccinating. Much research is ongoing to speed the development of vaccines that are less likely to cause vaccine-associated sarcomas. The first generation of “less reactive” vaccines is on the market now, but it is too early to know if these vaccines will fulfill their promise of being less likely to cause vaccine-associated sarcomas. Consult your veterinarian for the latest information on this important preventive health measure.

Dental care

Ensuring healthy teeth and gums for your pet is one area where you and your veterinarian must work together. Dental scalings and polishings by your veterinarian are an important part of preventive medicine, and keeping teeth clean between veterinary appointments is something that can — and should — be done by cat lovers.

Plaque buildup on teeth causes gums to recede, opening pockets at the root line that are paradise to bacterial infections. Left unchecked, these infections can lead to tooth loss, make eating painful, and put the cat’s immune system and internal organs under pressure, causing illness and premature aging. Rotting teeth and gums can become a powerful source of bad breath that some pet owners treat with products that may temporarily fix the smell but do nothing about the real problem.

Although some groomers and cat owners scale plaque themselves, this practice doesn’t address the problem at the root line, so regular cleanings under anesthesia by a veterinarian are essential to ensure dental health. In between, brushing two or three times a week with a child’s toothbrush or fingertip brush and a toothpaste designed for pets slows the reformation of plaque and extends the time between dental scalings. Brushing your cat’s teeth is not always easy to do, but if your cat will allow it, you can make a big difference in his oral health. Doing so also saves you money by increasing the time between dental cleanings at your veterinarian’s.

Tip

The key to getting a pet used to having his teeth brushed is to do it in small steps over time and to be patient and encouraging. As with nail trims or other procedures your cat may not appreciate, making teeth cleaning part of a session of petting capped by play may make things easier for you both.

The deadly danger of rabies

Although most people associate rabies with dogs, cases of feline rabiesare becoming more common. Vaccination is so important for your cat that in many places it’s required by law.

Rabies is caused by a viral infection of the nervous system. Most cases of rabies in the United States occur in wild animals. Because many cats share territory with wild animals, they’re at risk of being bitten by a rabid wild animal. (Normally timid animals can become aggressive if rabid.) Most cases of rabies in cats can be traced to skunks, foxes, raccoons, and bats.

The risk of contracting rabies from your cat — or any cat — is extremely small, but the disease is so deadly that, if your cat were to contract it, he would need to be humanely killed, and you would need to have a series of inoculations for your own protection.

A cat with rabies may hide, become agitated or nervous, get weak in the hindquarters, or become aggressive. Swallowing difficulties are also common. Whether he’s vaccinated or not, if you suspect your cat has tangled with a wild animal, contact your veterinarian and local public health officials immediately. Your life may depend on it! If your cat is current on his vaccination, he’ll need to be quarantined, but if not, public health officials may require that he be killed. That’s because the only way to tell for certain that an animal is rabid is to test brain tissues.

Need we make our position any clearer? Be sure your pet is vaccinated against this deadly, contagious disease.

Cat Tracks

Good dental health is especially important in the care of older cats. For more information, see Chapter Caring for an Older Cat.

Parasite control

Cats pick up all kinds of parasites, both internal pests, such as worms, and external ones, such as fleas and ear mites. Your veterinarian may ask you to bring in a fresh stool sample to check for the presence of worms. If parasites are present, she can prescribe medication to eliminate them.

Heartworms are something that only dog-owners had to worry about previously, but now preventive medication is out there for cats, too. What gives?

Cats are at risk for heartworm disease. The confusing news is that much controversy exists over whether the amount of attention given to this problem is good medicine or good marketing. The good news (driving the marketing) is that there is now effective medication which, given monthly, prevents heartworms from living inside a cat’s body.

Does your cat need heartworm prevention medication? Ask your veterinarian. Don’t be put off if your veterinarian seems unsure of the response. The answer is not clear to most at this time because the tests for heartworm disease in cats are relatively new and we are not sure how much to trust the results. Therefore we are not sure just how much of a problem heartworm disease is in cats in most regions.

No one likes to give unnecessary medications. However, in this case, the cost of not erring on the side of giving medications might be high. Although heartworm infestation is rare in cats, it is also not easily treated. In most cases where we prove heartworms are present in cats we choose to not treat and simply let the disease take its course because the risks of treating are high.

Remember

In areas where heartworm disease is very common in dogs and is being seen in cats, Paul (who is, after all, a board-certified veterinary cardiologist) thinks you should give a monthly prevention. It is safe and effective. In areas where HW disease is not commonly seen in dogs or is not being seen in cats, Paul is neutral on the recommendation. His own cat, PC, does not receive hearthworm prevention because the disease is very rare in dogs and is not seen in cats where he lives in Northern California. If he and PC lived in Florida or parts of Texas, it is likely Paul would give his own cat prevention medication.

Caution

Don’t bother with worming medications sold at pet-supply stores; they may not treat the kind of parasites your cat has. Better you should have your veterinarian accurately diagnose and treat your cat than subject your pet to medication that doesn’t fix the problem. This sort of thing is false economy!

Emergency!

Anything is worth a call to your veterinarian if you’re not sure what’s wrong with your kitty, but some things require urgent attention. Here are some signs that should have you heading for your veterinarian’s — or for the emergency clinic:

  • Seizure, fainting, or collapse.
  • Eye injury, no matter how mild.
  • Vomiting or diarrhea — anything more than two or three times within an hour or so.
  • Allergic reactions, such as swelling around the face, or hives, most easily seen on the belly.
  • Any suspected poisoning, including antifreeze, rodent or snail bait, or human medication. Cats are also especially sensitive to insecticides (such as flea-control medication for dogs) and any petroleum-based product.
  • Snake or venomous spider bite.
  • Thermal stress — from being either too cold or too hot — even if the cat seems to have recovered. (The internal story could be quite different.)
  • Any wound or laceration that’s open and bleeding, or any animal bite.
  • Trauma, such as being hit by a car, even if the cat seems fine.
  • Any respiratory problem: chronic coughing, trouble breathing, or near drowning.
  • Straining to urinate or defecate.

Although some problems don’t classify as life threatening, they may be causing your pet irritation and pain and so should be taken care of without delay. Signs of pain include the following: panting, labored breathing, increased body temperature, lethargy, restlessness, crying out, aggression, and loss of appetite.

Note: Some cats may seek you out for reassurance; others may draw within themselves.

Don’t take a chance waiting to see whether things “get better” on their own: Call your veterinarian!

Cat Tracks

The parasite that drives people craziest is the flea. For help in treating this persistent pest, see Chapter Good Grooming.

by Gina Spadafori and Paul D. Pion

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