In This Chapter
Is the old saying about cats true, that you choose a dog,
but a cat chooses you? Not really. Although sometimes a cat just walks into
your life and sets up housekeeping in your heart, the days are gone for most of
us when all you had to do to get a cat was set a saucer of milk on the back-porch
step.
So where can you find an “ordinary” cat? (We use that term
guardedly, because every cat is a unique work of art and love.) They’re
everywhere! In the warmer months that mean “kitten season,” you can hardly turn
around without someone trying to give you an adorable ball of baby cat fluff. A
litter of tabbies is advertised on the bulletin board at work. Your neighbor
waited too long to spay her kitten, and wants you to look at a tuxedo-marked
kitten, so handsome. You pause outside the grocery store to look at the kittens
some children are giving away out of a cardboard box. And you know that in your
local shelter the number of choices is multiplied many times over and tinged
with the sense of urgency for the kittens and cats for whom time is rather
quickly running out.
Remember
Choose with your head, looking for the animal most likely to fit in with your life and your expectations. Choose with your heart, for the love between you is a bond that will sustain both of you for years.
No matter your choice, however, always remember how lucky you are to be able to bring a cat into your life. Living with a cat’s companionship is truly one of life’s sweetest pleasures — one that is soon to be yours for many years to come, if you take your time at this stage of the game.
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| Figure 5-1: A cat is a lifetime of love and commitment. Take your time when choosing one. |
Cat Tracks
If you haven’t so much as thought about the gender of the cat you want — much less the breeding or age — take a look at Chapter Narrowing the Choices. If you’re still not sure whether you’re cat material, Chapter A New Appreciation of the Cat can help you decide. And finally, Chapter Considering Sources helps you evaluate the places to get a kitten or adult cat — from your coworker to a pet store to a breeder to a shelter — in hopes of avoiding the biggest mistakes people make when adopting an adult cat or kitten.
Evaluating the Environment
The first step in choosing a kitten or adult cat is not
looking at the animal herself, or her littermates, but the environment in which
she has been raised. After all, you’re looking to adopt an animal companion,
well socialized and healthy.
Domestication is a
product of heredity and upbringing, and few of our closest animal companions
are as able to step back and forth across the line between wild and tame as
nimbly as the cat. The cat is able to fend for herself on the edges of human
society, hunting and scavenging and carving out a life with little human
intervention, and even less human contact — at least for a while, for the lives
of these feral cats are often very short.
The difference between cats who live on the streets and the
ones purring contentedly in the lap of human luxury can be summed up in two
words: luck and socialization.
Cool Cat Fact
For an animal to be comfortable around humans, he must know that humans aren’t his enemy. For an animal to love human companionship, he must be socialized, carefully and frequently, usually from an early age. Behaviorists working with all kinds of animals have known this fact for decades; more recent research applies it specifically to the cat.
Before their eyes even open, kittens begin learning and
becoming comfortable with their world. If humans (or other animals, such as
dogs) are part of this world, cats become better pets as a result, more loving
and attentive. Without the human touch when young, all the subsequent kindness and
socialization in the world doesn’t count for as much: Your cat will probably
always be a little tentative and shy.
Although socialization is probably the most important factor
to consider when evaluating a kitten, there are others. The quality of care
that the mother cat gives her kittens, for example, depends upon the quality of
care she herself receives. Cats are resourceful, courageous, and dedicated mothers,
doing their best to provide for their young under the most challenging
conditions. No matter how hard a mother cat tries to care for her babies,
however, the stresses of a life of deprivation can have a negative effect on
her kittens. Studies have shown that when a mother cat isn’t adequately fed,
her kittens develop slowly physically and may never catch up mentally or
emotionally.
Remember
Proper care of the mother and frequent handling of the kittens are essential to the creation of a loving, outgoing, and relaxed feline companion. That said, we must admit to knowing more than a few former ferals who’ve done okay as pets. They take more time and patience, though, so you need to be aware.
Cat Tracks
We evaluate pet stores and shelters, breeders good and not-so-good, and all the other sources for kittens in Chapter Considering Sources. In this chapter, we assume that you’ve weighed your choices and chosen the right source, and now it’s time to choose the right pet from that source. If you don’t know the pros and cons — including some rather disturbing ones — of various sources, it pays to review them in Chapter Considering Sources. As for feral cats, we talk about these special cats in our brand-new Chapter Ferals: Special Cats, Special Considerations, including a section on taming them.
Getting a read on a kitty’s history
So what do you do in order to find out about a kitten’s or
adult cat’s history? Sit down with him and say: “Tell me about your
kittenhood”? Unfortunately, it’s not that easy. Some cats are talkative to the
extreme, but actual words tend to fail them. To find out about a cat’s past,
you have to be a little more observant — look and listen for the clues that
suggest you have a cat with whom you can live.
In some cases, especially with kittens, finding out about
the mother cat and that all-important socialization is easy: All you have to do
is ask the owner. This is certainly true if you’re buying a pedigreed cat and
dealing with a reputable breeder who knows the importance of good nutrition for
the mother and handling and exposure to new things for the kittens. This breeder
is happy to tell you everything that went into the development of your kitten,
from how she considered the mating, matching pedigree to pedigree, to what she
fed the expectant mother, to how and how often she handled the kittens.
If the breeder shows her cats, she’s just as interested in well-handled
kittens as you are — if not more so. The kittens she picks for competition need
to be able to deal with frequent baths and grooming, car and airplane rides,
noisy exhibition halls with lots of gawkers, and judges handling them thoroughly
to assess their conformation, or
physical closeness to the written blueprint for the breed, called a standard.
Cat Tracks
We discuss the world of cat shows — and whether you can find a place in it for you and your cat — in Chapter Out and About with Your Cat. But what about the kittens your coworker wants you to see? Her family, too, may have provided a perfect environment out of common sense and the kindness of their hearts. The mother may be a beloved family pet or a cat in trouble they took in to help out. Again, ask about the mother’s health and consider the environment the kitten was raised in. A litter raised indoors, in the heart of a family, with children to handle them and dogs to get used to (if you have dogs), with pans rattling and people talking — and even yelling — is full of superb pet prospects.
Making special considerations
If we seem to be suggesting choosing only kittens whose
backgrounds you can verify and whose mothers you can meet, let us assure you
that’s not the case. Millions of wonderful kittens and adult cats are available
for adoption from shelters, from dedicated foster-and-placement volunteers, and
even from adoption outreach programs that take kittens and adult cats where the
people are, whether it’s in the adoption center of a pet superstore or the
streets around an office area.
In these cases, you have to rely on your observations and on
trust with the (one hopes) reputable animal organization that brought the
animals out (ideally after getting a read on their temperaments and health
first).
Remember
You have to give these animals a little leeway, especially the adult cats. Although healthy, well-socialized kittens can play in nearly any surroundings, even the best cats may be miserable and disoriented in the cages of a shelter. We discuss more on evaluating kittens and cats individually a little later in this chapter, but for now we just want you to remember: Don’t make environment count for everything. Many a kitten or adult cat has risen from unfortunate beginnings to make a great pet. You just need to spend more time observing the adult as an individual, that’s all. And maybe listen to your heart and take a chance.
Choosing a Kitten
Although you shouldn’t automatically consider a kitten —
there’s a lot of good to be said about an adult cat — most people are thinking
“kitten” when the time comes to bring a cat into their lives. And you certainly
can’t deny the charm of a kitten.
Many times people make their choices based on aesthetic
reasons — although personally we think all
cats are beautiful! Some people are drawn to gray tabbies, others to calicoes
and tortoiseshells. That is no problem, of course, for the beauty of a cat is
one of the pleasures of sharing a life with one, and beauty is in the eyes of
the beholder.
But make sure your kitten is more than just a glamour-puss.
Make sure he has a temperament you can live with, and make sure, above all,
that he’s healthy. Evaluating both of these criteria takes a little time.
Tip
Should you bring your children along to look at kittens and cats? How could you not? That said, the youngest children — below the age of 3 or so — may indeed be best left behind, for they have yet to learn how to be gentle in their handling of animals and could scare or even hurt a delicate kitten. (After you adopt a new family pet, you need to work on teaching your child how to handle her.)
School-aged children can help with the personality testing,
which is, after all, really about playing with the kittens (see the upcoming
section, “Personality testing your kitten”). From the age of 9 or 10 or so,
children can be fully involved in the process, right down to choosing the
kitten and caring for her at home — both under adult guidance. Kids and cats
are good together!
Adopting at the ideal age
Many breeders don’t let their kittens go to a new home
before the age of 14 or even 16 weeks, when the baby’s immune system is fully
working (more on that in the vaccinations section in Chapter Preventive
Health Care for Your Cat). By then, the
kitten has enjoyed a wonderful start in the company of her littermates and
mother — as well as children, dogs, and other realities of life among the
two-legged.
Kittens benefit from the extra time with their littermates
for the first 12 to 14 weeks of their lives, which is why most experts suggest
that kittens adopted at this age have the best prospects for becoming healthy,
well-adjusted pets. We’d draw the line at 10 weeks of age (at least), which is about
the time when a kitten has developed the skills he needs to use as an adult,
and we consider prime adoption time to be from 12 to 14 weeks of age.
Cat Tracks
At what age do kittens open their eyes? When can they walk, and hear, and leap? You can find information on kitten development from birth on — and how you can influence it in a positive way — in Chapter Littering: Should Your Cat Become a Parent?.
Caution
Remember that you’re trying to find the best feline companion you can, trying to be an informed consumer and make your decision as much — if not more — with your head as with your heart. A person who is trying to sell or give you a kitten who’s too young — especially one freshly weaned at six to seven weeks of age — is probably more interested in “getting rid of” the kittens than in finding them good homes. You have to wonder what other shortcuts were taken with the litter, especially regarding how the mother was handled and how the litter was socialized.
Looking at a litter
You want to consider the litter as a whole, from the moment
you first see them and vice versa. If the first thing you see is the tails of a
half-dozen terrified kittens diving for cover, perhaps these babies aren’t
socialized enough for you.
What should you hope to see? Playful, confident kittens,
friendly and inquisitive. Glossy coats that beg to be stroked. Bright eyes
looking in your direction.
Tip
Wear comfortable clothes to look at a litter, and be prepared to get down to their level to check things out. Sit on the floor with them, and encourage them with chirps and wiggling fingers to interact with you.
After you get a sense of the group as a whole, start to sort
out the personalities of each individual kitten. Take your time — which should
be easy, for few things are more pleasurable than playing with a litter of healthy
kittens. Observe which kittens are the most active or the most tentative. The
kitten who never stops may not be the best choice for you, especially if you’re
looking for a companion to purr contentedly in your lap while you read or watch
TV. The shy one may be a poor choice, too, especially if yours is an active
household, with lots of comings and goings and a constant parade of children
and guests.
If the litter’s a good one, though, you should have two or
three kittens that are kind of “medium” — friendly and playful, but not too
crazy. These are the ones you should observe most closely; one of these is
likely your best choice.
Tip
You may find the entire litter a little sluggish and slow afoot. Ask the owner whether the kittens just ate, or have spent the better part of the last two hours chasing each other through the house. If that’s the case, ask to visit another time so you can better evaluate the true personalities of the kittens when they’re fully awake.
Technical Stuff
Sometimes you may not be able to evaluate a kitten in the company of her littermates. This situation is especially true in shelters, where litters are commonly split when they come in. The practice — which is a sad necessity at the peak of kitten season — involves taking one or two kittens from each litter to place for adoption and sending the rest back for euthanasia. The lucky ones may just be more handsomely marked or more playful than their littermates, but they, too, may eventually meet the same fate. It’s not the shelter’s fault: They’re just coping with pet overpopulation as best they can.
If you can’t see the whole litter, you can still pick a
wonderful pet. Kittens from different litters are often placed together for
companionship and space considerations, so you can still observe how well each
kitten interacts with others. And the most important part of choosing —
personality testing — is still available to you.
Personality testing your kitten
Talk about fun! Checking out kittens is really about playing
with them, and that’s something you can never have enough of. Following are
some ways to find out whether a kitten is for you:
- Evaluate her interest level. To do so, take the kitten away from her littermates so her focus is on you.
- Concentrate on her as an individual. All kittens are adorable, so try to look beyond that and such things as color or that cute little Groucho mustache. Sure, you ought to like the looks of your cat, but the personality is more important in the long run.
- Don’t hurry. If you rush things and take the first kitten you see, the kitten who would have been a better match for you may never find a home.
- Come with kitten-testing tools. Bring a feather, a Ping-Pong ball, or a cloth mouse. A piece of string or yarn is fine, too, as long as you remember that none of these should ever be left with a kitten or adult cat as a permanent plaything, because they are too often eaten and can cause havoc in the feline intestine.
Tip
You may have to improvise some, depending on the surroundings. A shelter may not have the facilities for you to observe a litter at play or test a kitten individually. That doesn’t make them a bad place to get a kitten! Instead of evaluating a kitten who has some room to roam, you may need to do your play-testing through the bars of a cage.
The feather test
We like to use a feather, but in truth it can be any of your
testing toys. You’re looking for a kitten bursting with good health and
playfulness, one who isn’t afraid of people and, better yet, considers them the
source of all good things.
At this stage, you should already noticed the overly shy kittens, and you especially should have sadly removed from consideration the kitten who spits and hisses in terror at your approach. If you’re working with a shelter, they’ve probably already removed these poor babies, leaving only the most adoptable out. Pick up one of the friendly kittens carefully, with a reassuring but gentle grip under her belly, and set her down in your observation area.
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| Figure 5-2: Use a feather or other attention-getter to ensure that your prospective pet is as inquisitive as a normal kitten should be. |
Let her explore her new environment a little while you
settle onto the floor, and then, when she’s satisfied with her surroundings,
chirp at her and tease her with the feather (or string, or other toy). She
should pursue it eagerly, batting at it and pouncing as she goes, and sitting
up on her haunches to swat at it as you tease with it overhead.
This is all normal behavior for a healthy, outgoing kitten,
and if yours shows it, she’s passed the feather test.
Should you buy a kitten you’ve never seen? |
|
If you have your heart set on one of the rarer breeds of
cats, you may well have to resign yourself to letting a breeder pick out a
suitable kitten and ship it to you by air. Understandably, this sort of deal involves a lot of trust
on both sides, and you want to be sure you’re dealing with the most reputable
and experienced of breeders. (You can find information on how to find such a person
in Chapter Considering
Sources.) But if you are confident you’re working with such a person,
then you should be fine — and so should your kitten. May we make another suggestion, though? A rare-breed
kitten can set you back several hundred — or even thousands — of dollars.
What’s a little travel expense on top of that, when you’re talking about a
companion who’ll be with you for the better part of two decades? Go see the litter. Go see your kitten. And fly home with
him in your care. An unaccompanied kitten must travel as baggage in the
pressurized cargo hold. If you’re with your new pet, he can go with you in
the cabin as carry-on luggage in an airline approved carrier. It’s a much better deal for the kitten, and for the nerves
of the caring people at both ends. Oh, and for more on traveling with a cat,
see Chapter Out
and About with Your Cat. |
A moment of calm
The kitten you want should be neither too shy nor too
assertive and active. The kitten should be comfortable being held, enjoying
your stroking and soothing voice. One who constantly struggles to wriggle free
and keep playing — even if not doing so out of fear — may grow up into a cat
who is too active for you.
So spend a few moments of quiet time with each of your
contenders and see how they react to you as an individual. Let your heart weigh
in a little here, and be receptive to the idea that one of these little
fluffballs may be the one who’s meant for you.
Remember
The perfect match when it comes to cats is the animal who is friendly and well socialized, who has an activity level you can live with, and who appeals to your aesthetic sense of what feline beauty is all about. There are millions of kittens from which to choose, and many of them meet all your requirements.
Never get a kitten on impulse. The pet you choose will bring
pleasure into your life for many years, so take your time and select the kitten
who’s right for your family.
Considering the Second-Chance Kitty
Perhaps because kittens are so very appealing, adult cats
have the lowest adoption rate at many shelters. While prospective adopters head
straight for the kitten section, hundreds of thousands of adult cats purr
hopefully in their cages, and thrust their soft paws beseechingly through the
bars as if they understand the importance of catching someone’s attention.
Too many never get a second chance, and that’s a real shame.
It’s a tragedy for the cats, of course, but it’s also
unfortunate for many people who don’t realize that an adult cat may, in many
cases, be a better choice. You know pretty well what you’re getting with a
grown cat — activity level, sociability, and health. Given time in a loving
environment, a grown cat forms just as tight a bond with his new people as any
kitten can, and we believe that in some cases recycled pets are more
appreciative, somehow, of a chance at a happy life.
With adult cats, as with kittens, knowing a little of the
animal’s background is important, especially if your family has children or
dogs. You can ask your questions about background directly if adopting from the
cat’s original owner, but most shelters also try to provide some basic
information, which they ask of the people giving up their pets.
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| Figure 5-3: Shelters are stressful and disorienting to a cat, so try to spend a little quiet time when evaluating a cat for adoption. |
Tip
What if the information isn’t flattering to the cat? For example, suppose that he has become available for adoption because of his failure to use a litter box? This is a tough situation, because you don’t know the contributing factors — maybe the litter box was never cleaned or was left in a spot that was convenient for the owner but disconcerting for the cat. (More on litter box problems — and solutions — in Chapter Getting Good Litter Box Behavior.) With so many cats available, the commonsense answer is to count this kitty out. But if the cat checks out otherwise, it’s really a judgment call, another factor for you to weigh before making a decision — but only if you have the time and patience to work on solving the problem.
If at all possible, take each adult cat you’re considering
away from the caging area of the adoption center or influence of her previous
family. Sit down with her in your lap, alone, in a quiet place and try to get a
feel for her as an individual. Shelters are stressful places, so she may need a
few quiet minutes to collect herself, but the most calm, confident, and
outgoing of cats respond pretty readily to your attention, relaxing in your
lap, pushing for strokes, and purring. This is the kind of cat you’re looking
for.
Recognizing Good Health in Kittens and Cats
Don’t fall in love with a sick cat. With so many kittens and
cats available for adoption, it just doesn’t make sense to take a chance on one
who may cost you a great deal of money in veterinary costs — and may not be
with you long, anyway.
Feral cat considerations |
|
In every community, dedicated volunteers trap, tame, and
find homes for feral cats — those
gone wild. Although these efforts are commendable and more than a few end in
success stories, a formerly feral cat or kitten can be a poor adoption
prospect. A feral cat or kitten isn’t usually going to be as friendly and
relaxed as an animal who has spent his whole life in the presence of humans.
It’s always hard to say “no” to an animal in need, but with the sheer numbers
of cats and kittens so desperate for a home like yours, you may want to think
twice before you choose a pet with built-in problems. On the other hand, you may want to take a chance. Some
former ferals will be fine in time, especially in a small, quiet household.
(Typically such cats bond to one person only, and are shy with others.) Or
maybe you like taking on the challenge such a cat represents, or feel good
for having helped a hard-luck kitty. If you do choose such a cat or kitten, go into the
situation with your eyes open. And if you want more ways to help the wild
ones, Chapter Ferals:
Special Cats, Special Considerations helps get you started. |
Some signs of health are obvious to anyone; others require a
veterinarian’s help to pinpoint. Before you settle on a promising kitten or
cat, perform your own health check, and be sure to follow up with your
veterinarian within a day or so.
The outer cat
General impressions are important. You should get a sense of
good health and vitality from the animal you’re considering adopting. He should
feel good in your arms: neither too thin nor too fat, well put-together, sleek,
and solid. If ribs are showing or the animal is potbellied, he may be suffering
from malnutrition or worms — both fixable, but signs of neglect that may indicate
deeper problems with socialization or general health.
With soothing words and gentle caresses, go over the animal
from nose to tail, paying special attention to the following areas:
- Fur and skin: Skin should be clean and unbroken, covered thickly with a glossy coat of hair. Bald patches may mean ringworm, not a parasite but a fungal infection that you can catch, too. Part the hairs and look for signs of fleas: The parasites themselves may be too small and fast for you to spot, but their droppings remain behind. If you’re not sure, put the cat on a clean surface, such as a stainless-steel counter or white towel and run your fingers against the grain. Then look on the surface: If fleas are present, you see the droppings as little bits that look like pepper. If you add water to them, they turn reddish in color — because they’re made up of dried blood. You shouldn’t count a cat out because of a few fleas, but a severe infestation could be a sign of a health problem, especially for kittens. (Some kittens become anemic from having so much of their blood sucked by the pests.)
- Ears: These should be clean inside or, perhaps, have a little bit of wax. Filthy ears and head-shaking are signs of ear mites, which can require a prolonged period of consistent medication to eradicate.
- Eyes: Eyes should look clear and bright. Runny eyes or other discharge may be a sign of illness. The third eyelid, a semitransparent protective sheath that folds away into the corners of the eyes nearest the nose (also called a haw), should not be visible.
- Nose: Again, the cat should have no discharge. The nose should be clean and slightly moist. A kitten or cat who is breathing with difficulty, coughing, or sneezing may be seriously ill.
- Mouth: Gums should be rosy pink, not pale, and with no signs of inflammation at the base of the teeth. The teeth should be white and clean of tartar buildup.
- Tail area: Clean and dry. Dampness or the presence of fecal matter may suggest illness.
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| Figure 5-4: All kittens are adorable, but look beyond the pretty face for signs of good health and temperament. |
Cool Cat Facts
Even though we believe you’re best off finding the healthiest, best-socialized cat or kitten you can, we do applaud those who take on the challenges of the neediest. Gina’s friend, Jan, for example, lives happily with a houseful of some of the weirdest cats imaginable. One of the newest additions to her home is Mimi (short for Screaming Mimi, to give you an idea of this cat’s worst trait). Jan found Mimi trapped in a drain pipe, a half-starved, seriously dehydrated kitten with ear mites, fleas, and worms. The veterinarian told Jan she didn’t think the kitten would make it, but Mimi pulled through and grew to be a sleek and glossy adult. Not that anyone would know, for Mimi hides from company. But she’s an affectionate companion to the woman who saved her life.
The inner cat
In the best circumstances, your kitten or adult cat will
come with a clean bill of health certified by the shelter or other placement
service, or vouched for by the cat’s own health records kept by the person
trying to place him. If that’s not the case, you need to have any adoption
prospect checked out by a veterinarian for serious problems you can’t see.
Following are some problems you should have your pet checked for:
- Infectious diseases: Feline leukemia is the biggest concern. Though many cats live with the virus well enough for years, you may want to consider carefully the added worry and health-care expense of owning such a cat. Then, too, if you already have cats, you may want to safeguard their health by not exposing them to the contagious virus. Your veterinarian can determine the presence of infectious disease with a simple test, and explain to you the results — and your options. (For more on this nasty disease and others, see Chapter Common Cat Health Problems.)
- Parasites: Worms are the biggest problem. Your veterinarian needs to verify their presence and prescribe an appropriate course of treatment.
Caution
Don’t put the cats you already have at risk by introducing a sick animal into your home. Have your new cat cleared by your veterinarian before you bring him home.
Cat Tracts
If your prospective pet clears the health check, he should start a regimen of preventive care right away to ensure continued good health. You can find information on preventive care and choosing a veterinarian in Chapter Preventive Health Care for Your Cat.
Taking a Leap of Faith with Your Eyes Open!
Remember
At the beginning of this chapter, we state that the old saying “you choose a dog, but a cat chooses you” doesn’t hold true for most people these days, but it still happens enough for you to keep your heart open to all the possibilities. For every “rule” we include in this chapter — don’t adopt a sick cat, don’t adopt a shy cat, don’t adopt a cat with a behavioral problem, don’t adopt a feral cat — we know of a handful of smashing success stories that prove the exception.
But these stories of love over adversity all have in common
cat owners who went into the situation with open eyes and a willingness to
spend the time (and in many cases, the money) to make a healthy, happy pet out
of an animal with a problem.
If you want to take a chance on a kitten or adult cat with a
problem, more power to you. But be honest about what you’re getting yourself
into. A kitty with a problem is harder (and often more expensive) to live with
than one who has everything going for him. And remember, too, that if you later
decide you made the wrong decision with a problem cat, you’ll probably be unable
to find him another home.
Many things are possible, if you try. But if you’re not able
to put in the extra effort, be sure
you choose a healthy, well-socialized cat who has a better chance of working
out in your life, one with whom you can more easily form a relationship that
will better both your lives for many years.
by Gina Spadafori and Paul D. Pion
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