Showing posts with label Cats. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cats. Show all posts

Ten of the Best Things Ever Said about Cats

In This Chapter

  • The feline muse
  • Quotations from cat lovers

Ten Ways to Make Your Indoor Cat Happier

In This Chapter

  • Having enough toys to play with
  • Providing diversions, leafy or otherwise
  • Finding a place in the sun
  • Enjoying each other’s company

Ten Common Household Dangers to Your Cat

In This Chapter

  • Protecting against poisons
  • Ties that bind — up
  • Avoiding two-ton hazards
  • Looking out for two-legged trouble

Ten Cat-Related Attractions on the Information Superhighway

In This Chapter

  • Web browser’s delights 
  • Cat pictures by the millions 
  • Pampered cats — and needy ones 
  • Goodies galore 
  • A place for remembering

Ten Things to Know in Case of Disaster

In This Chapter

  • Planning for the worst
  • Working with your veterinarian
  • Putting together a disaster kit
  • Preparing to help others

Ten Cat Myths Debunked

In This Chapter

  • Got cats? Need milk?
  • Getting the lowdown on purring
  • Uncovering the truth about black cats
  • Living with a cat while you’re expecting
  • Introducing the calico cat

Out and About with Your Cat

In This Chapter

  • Determining whether your cat should travel
  • Choosing a pet-sitter or kennel
  • Traveling by air or car
  • Easing your cat through a change of address
  • Figuring out whether your cat is showable

If you left the decision to your cat, the chances are good that neither of you would ever go anywhere. Not to work. Not to a lovely getaway weekend with the two-legged love of your life. And certainly not to the veterinarian. Cats love routine, they love territory, and they especially in

A well-run home, meals on time, warm places to sleep, and the attentions of a loving human — to a cat, these pleasures are heaven.

To humans, however, such an existence is boring. We’re a considerably more nomadic lot than our cats are, and most of us love an occasional change of scenery every bit as much as we appreciate the comforts of our homes. Then, too, sometimes the choice to travel is not ours, with family, friends, and work keeping us moving — to that business conference a half-day’s flight away, to a friend’s wedding, or to a relative’s funeral.

Remember

No matter where you’re going and why, carefully plan for your cat’s care so that she’ll be as happy as possible under the circumstances. Most of the times you go away, you’re leaving your cat behind, but if you’re taking her with you, make the journey as safe and comfortable as possible for her. And if you can’t have her with you, see that her needs are provided for by pet- sitters or boarding facilities so that you don’t need to worry.

Figure 18-1: Most cats would rather snooze at home than travel, and this old-timer is definitely one of them.

We certainly don’t want you to worry, whether you take your cat or leave her behind. This is why we tell you everything you need to know to make the right choices for your pet, whether you’re going away for the weekend or picking up stakes and moving your household — cat included, of course — cross-country. You want your cat to be happy. And so do we.

The Cat’s Meow

Although most cats prefer to avoid a life on the road, a few handle the challenges well. Put in this category not only top show cats, but also show-biz cats, who travel with their trainers for work in television, movies, and advertising. For the ultimate cat-travel story, however, check out the experiences of Peter Gether’s Scottish Fold, Norton, in his books, The Cat Who Went to Paris and A Cat Abroad: The Further Adventures of Norton, the Cat Who Went to Paris, and His Human (both in paperback from Fawcett). Norton has passed away, but in his time, he was quite a cat!

Is Your Cat Up to Travel?

Not that many cats take to travel the way dogs do, and if you want yours to have a chance at enjoying a life on the road, you probably need to start when your pet is a kitten. An adult can be more difficult to introduce to new places and people and may never adjust enough to enjoy the experience.

Some trips aren’t avoidable, especially if you’re moving. (See the section “Moving Your Cat to a New Home,” later in this chapter.) How much discretionary travel you attempt with your cat is basically up to your cat and comes down to two questions: Is your pet healthy enough to travel? Does your pet have the personality to adapt to travel?

You must answer those questions for yourself with input from your veterinarian and, of course, your cat. And maybe experiment a little with some short pleasure trips to make sure that they’re enjoyable for you both. Like Norton, the “Cat Who Went to Paris,” some cats are made for a life lapping cream in French cafés; others are delighted to be traveling comfortably in a well-equipped motor home. Maybe your pet is one of these vagabonds!

Cat Tracks

The trip almost no cat likes is the one to the veterinary hospital. We put tips on making that particular journey easier — for you, your cat, and your veterinarian — in Chapter Preventive Health Care for Your Cat.

Health considerations

Before undertaking anything more than a cross-town trip with your cat, take her to the veterinarian to make sure she’s in good health and current on all the preventive-care measures your veterinarian recommends. A cat who’s in poor health is not well suited to be a traveling companion.

Talk to your veterinarian about your travel and your concerns for your cat. If you’re traveling by air, you need a health certificate. (You can find more information on air travel in the section “Taking Your Pet with You,” later in this chapter.) If you’re traveling by car or by air, ask for a copy of your cat’s vaccination record, especially rabies. The thought that your cat may bite someone or tangle with a wild creature is horrible, but in case she does, you want proof of her rabies vaccination with you.

If you think your cat may be better off traveling sedated, discuss this option with your veterinarian.

Caution

If your cat is a Persian or Exotic Shorthair — or any mix that has these breeds’ trademark short muzzles — traveling may be a real hazard. That’s because breathing is more difficult for these short-faced pets. Air travel in a cargo hold should probably be ruled out. Ask your veterinarian what can ensure your pet’s safety any time that you must travel with her.

Temperament considerations

You know your cat better than anyone else. Is she shy and nervous or relaxed and outgoing? Does she adjust well to change? To noise? To changes in feed time or location? If your cat takes two days to “chill out” after a short car trip, you may decide that only essential trips are in her future.

If your cat is borderline, however, give her a chance. You may both enjoy the extra time together, wherever you are.

Leaving Your Pet Behind

You need to know what to do if you can’t take your cat with you, which is probably most of the time you’re away from home. Your cat may not be one of those rare ones who enjoys the challenge of travel, and even if he is, you can’t always take him along. Business travel is necessary, after all, and so, too, is that emergency trip cross-country to handle the estate of a relative. Another place you may need to go where your cat can’t is the hospital.

Ask your friends, neighbors, and coworkers what they do with their cats when they’re gone. Ask your veterinarian, too, for referrals to pet-sitters or boarding facilities, if he doesn’t have his own boarding facilities.

If you have a service in mind, whether a boarding facility or sitter, call and ask for references and then check it out — a step few people take. Ask about professional affiliations, such as the American Boarding Kennel Association or Pet Sitters International, both of which offer materials and training to U.S. and Canadian members to encourage a higher degree of performance from their members.

Tip

No matter what kind of care you choose for your pet while you’re gone, make your arrangements early, if you can. Pet-sitters and boarding facilities are booked weeks and sometimes months in advance for peak travel times, such as summer or the winter holidays.

Prepare for emergencies

One of the easiest things to overlook in leaving your pet behind — whether with a friend, a pet-sitter, or a boarding facility — is how you want him cared for should he become ill. Discuss care options with your veterinarian in advance and then clue in the person who’s caring for your cat.

Setting up emergency care arrangements works best if you have a good relationship with your veterinarian — but then, so does everything else concerning your pet’s health. Gina’s veterinarian knows the kind of health care she expects, and she trusts his judgment if he can’t get in touch with her. In her pets’ records is a note from him saying that, no matter who shows up with her animals, the hospital is to provide care, and her credit card number is on file to handle the charges.

Remember

You’re well advised to set up a similar relationship to the one Gina has with her veterinarian so that your cat’s care is something you don’t need to worry about while you’re away. Touch base with your veterinarian on this point at your cat’s annual exam or before you leave him to go on a trip to make sure that no misunderstandings come up.

Cat Tracks

For the ultimate in preparing for a trip where you can’t take your pet, see the information in Chapter Caring for an Older Cat on providing for your cat in your will. We don’t mean to be flippant about something so serious, but we do want you to be sure your pet is covered in any eventuality.

Pet-sitters

A wide range of services is lumped under the general title of pet-sitter, covering everything from a reciprocal agreement between friends to care for each other’s pets, to paying a neighbor kid to look in on your cat, to hiring a professional pet-sitting service to care for your pet in your own home.

The benefit of having your pet stay in your own home is that she’s familiar with the surroundings — which is a very important consideration where cats are concerned. And pet-sitters can do more than just look in on your pet: They can take in your mail and newspaper, water your houseplants, and turn lights on and off.

Remember

Discuss services and prices with pet-sitters beforehand, and if you’re dealing with a service, make sure that their employees are bonded and insured.

The biggest drawback to pet-sitters is that your pet is left alone a great deal of the time, because most pet-sitters probably can’t spend much time giving your pet individual attention. (An arrangement with a young person — or a house-sitter to stay in your home while you’re gone — may give your pet more opportunities to be petted or played with.) If your pet becomes ill or manages to escape, a pet-sitter may not come back to notice before some time has passed. And, finally, some people just aren’t comfortable having people in their home while they’re gone.

Caution

Informal arrangements for house-sitting — actually having the person move in while you’re gone — or pet-sitting — having the person just drop in once or twice a day to check on your cat — can be even trickier than hiring a professional service. Just ask the friend of Gina’s who left her house and pets in the care of a friend’s collegeaged daughter, only to find out that the young woman had been anything but a quiet resident. She’d had guests and even parties. The house was a bit worse for wear, but at least the pets were fine! If you’re going to go with a young person — and many people do, with no regrets — confirm that parental oversight is part of the agreement.

Tip

One of the best solutions is to trade pet-sitting services. Most animal lovers have friends who also have pets, and making a deal with a friend to cover each other whenever you’re gone can work out very well. Trading care is a solution that’s both reassuring — if you have friends who love animals as much as you do, that is — and inexpensive. All the arrangement requires is your own time in return.

Boarding facilities

Boarding facilities are another option, ideal for friendly, well-adjusted cats. Despite all the recommendations in the world, however, don’t leave your pet at a business you haven’t inspected yourself. You should see clean, comfortable, and well-maintained facilities, and if you don’t, go elsewhere.

Ask where your pet would stay and ask to see the premises. Make sure your cat will be housed completely away from dogs and separated from other cats — although your own cats can be housed together, unacquainted cats should never be mixed.

The facility operators should seem sincerely interested in tailoring their facility to make your cat’s stay more comfortable. They should be prepared to feed your cat as you do, especially if he’s on a special diet, and they should be willing to allow you to leave behind toys or articles containing your smell — a dirty sock, for example — to reassure your pet.

Figure 18-2: Many cats are most comfortable staying home while you’re gone and having a pet-sitting friend drop in.

Boarding your cat has a few advantages over hiring a pet-sitting service. Boarding facilities are usually very secure, and the best ones always have someone on-site to check in on your cat. Some businesses make up for the fact that they’re out in the sticks by picking up and delivering your pet.

Tip

If you don’t have a home yet in a city you’re moving to, a reputable boarding facility may meet your pet at the airport in advance of your arrival and care for her until you get there. Alternatively, you can often leave your pet while you’re house-hunting and arrange for the facility to ship her after you find suitable lodgings. (See the section “Air travel,” later in this chapter.) In general, we prefer to recommend accompanied air travel, but your circumstances may not permit it. If that’s the case, a reputable boarding facility can help.

Many veterinarians have boarding facilities, too, and if yours is among them, this option may well be the best boarding choice for your pet. The biggest advantage is that the staff is already familiar with your pet and her medical background — a real plus if your cat is elderly or has a chronic health condition.

Caution

Do not patronize a boarding facility that does not ask you for proof of up-to-date vaccinations. If they do not insist that your pet is healthy and well-protected from disease, they’re not asking these questions of other boarders, either, and not doing so puts your pet at risk. No matter what, we don’t recommend boarding a kitten who hasn’t had all his vaccinations. The increased possibility for disease isn’t worth the risk.

Showing off: Is your cat star material?

People who are involved in the sport of breeding and showing cats — known as the cat fancy — come from all backgrounds and every corner of the world, sharing only their firm belief that the cat is the most beautiful of all beings. For some, the sport is both an obsession and a love.

If your cat is in good health and can handle the stress of travel and of being looked at and handled by strangers, you’re welcome to enter him in the next cat show that comes up in your area. Before you do, however, read the cat magazines to see what kinds of shows are common in your region. Also write to the registry (such as the Cat Fanciers’ Association) for show rules to make sure that your cat is eligible. In some registries, for example, declawed cats are not allowed, whereas in others, your cat’s breed may not be recognized to compete at all.

After you read the rules, attend a show as a spectator and pick up all the information you can find. Look for fliers on upcoming shows and pamphlets on how to exhibit, and buttonhole every friendly exhibitor you can to get all your questions answered.

Your cat doesn’t need to be a registered, pedigreed animal to compete at most cat shows. Many people happily show in the household pet competition, but for others, household pet is just the beginning. They eventually choose a breed (or more than one) to compete for other awards and to develop a breeding program.

One way to determine whether your cat may be show material is to consider how she behaves on her trips to the veterinarian. If she’s relatively easy to handle and friendly, she’s probably okay for showing. If she’s terrified, spitting and slashing, you probably need to resign yourself to attending cat shows as a spectator, at least until you add a more amenable cat to your family. We’ve put more on how to enjoy a show as a spectator in Chapter Narrowing the Choices.

Taking Your Pet with You

No matter whether by car or air, traveling with your cat is easier if you plan ahead and bring gear to make the trip easier. You need to travel a bit more lightly if going by air, but if you’re heading out by car, load up!

Remember

We cover only air and automobile travel because for most people those are the only options if you want your cat to accompany you. Most cruise ships usually don’t allow animals, nor do many bus or rail lines, including Amtrak.

The following list describes some travel essentials for your cat. Check out Chapter All the Right Stuff for more information on choosing pet supplies and the Additional Resources appendix at the end of this book for contact information on pet-supply catalogs.

  • Carrier: An airline-approved travel carrier — also called a crate — can get you through any situation with your cat. Shop around for value, but don’t skimp on quality: Get a sturdy crate made of high-impact plastic, large enough for your cat to stand up and turn around in and not much more. This carrier can safely take your cat to the veterinarian and around the world, if need be, and is the most essential piece of travel gear for any cat.

If you travel cross-country in a car, you may want to get a larger carrier, sized for a medium-sized dog, so that you have room for a litter box inside the crate on a long drive. Another carrier option is a soft-sided bag (we like the ones made by Sherpa), which may be more comfortable for you and your pet if you’re traveling by air — but only if he’s with you in the passenger compartment. You need a hard-plastic, airline-approved carrier for use in the cargo hold.

  • Harness, ID, and leash: A frightened or startled cat is harder to hold onto than a hot frying pan. Make sure that, if yours wriggles out of your grasp, he’s going no farther than the end of a leash. Keep a cat harness with an ID tag on him and attach a leash to the harness anytime he’s out of the crate. One nice leash for travel is a reel-type Flexi; the smallest size is lightweight enough for cats and gives your pet 10 feet of freedom. We like IDs that offer 24-hour tracking and assistance, such as those from 1-800-HELP4PETS.
  • Litter box and filler: Although we generally recommend sticking with your cat’s regular brand, you’re likely to find that clumping litter is easiest to deal with on the road. Don’t forget to pack a litter scoop and air-tight, sealable plastic bags for keeping clumps smell-free until you can put them in a trash bin. You may find disposable cardboard litter boxes easiest to deal with, especially if you’re not using clumping litter — just toss litter and box as needed, even daily. Another possibility is buying a plastic storage bin with a snap-on lid. Although it doesn’t fit in a crate, such a bin holds a trip’s worth of clumping litter without spilling — just keep the lid on except when you’re offering your pet a potty break in the bin. And keep the clumps removed.
  • Food, water, and bowls: Pack your pet’s regular rations and, if you’re using moist food, don’t forget a fork and a can opener (or choose pop tops). Keep a bottle of water in the car so your cat can always have a fresh drink, and offer refreshment often. Another possibility is to use a hanging bottle on the crate. These bottles come in sizes appropriate for animals from mice to Great Danes; cat-sized ones may be marked for rabbits. Finally, don’t forget some treats.
  • First-aid and grooming supplies: Keep a basic first-aid kit at hand and pack in a comb and a brush as well. Don’t forget to bring along any regular medication your cat needs, too. For more information on the contents of a first-aid kit, see the Cheat Sheet at the front of this book or buy a ready-made kit. We list a contact number for one such manufacturer, PET-PAK, Inc., in the Additional Resources appendix.
  • Paper towels and a spray bottle of a general-purpose cleaner: You’re going to need these, we promise. Throw in a few old towels, too. They’re good for beds, restraints in an emergency — see Chapter Common Cat Health Problems for more information on emergencies — and any kind of cleanup. Aerosol air freshener is another good thing to bring.
  • A couple of your cat’s favorite toys, including an interactive one such as a cat fishing pole or a toy on a string: Hey, what else are you going to do in a motel room besides keep your cat amused?
  • Travel guides: Although cats are a lot easier to get into hotels, motels, and inns than are dogs (and a hundred times easier to sneak in, in a pinch, but we didn’t say so), you still need a reference to find out which places welcome pets. AAA and Mobil travel guides note where pets are welcome, and many books deal exclusively with traveling with your pet.

Now, obviously, you’re going to tailor what you bring to the kind of trip you’re taking. You aren’t going to pack everything for a short air trip, but you need the lot if you’re traveling hundreds of miles by car.

Air travel

Although horror stories make the news, the truth is that airline travel is relatively safe for most pets. Your pet will do fine, too, if you play by the rules, plan carefully, and are prepared to be a little pushy on your cat’s behalf.

Animals move through the airline system in two ways: as cargo or as accompanied baggage. Your cat is better off if you’re traveling with him so that you can make sure he’s well cared for.

Remember

Some airlines allow animals in the passenger cabin if their carriers can fit in the space beneath the seat, which is true in the case of most cats. Cabin seating is by far the best way your cat can fly, because he never leaves your care during the course of the trip. Not all airlines allow animals to travel in the cabin, however, and others put a limit on the number of pets in the cabin, so making your arrangements far in advance pays. Check and double-check.

If your cat isn’t allowed in the cabin, he flies below, in a pressurized cargo hold. This situation isn’t ideal, but many cats do fine with it. The Air Transport Association estimates that more than half a million dogs and cats are transported on commercial airlines each year, and the industry group insists that 99 percent reach their destination without incident.

To make sure your pet is one of them, pay careful attention to the following tips:

  • Talk to the airline. Some carriers, especially the new, no-frills companies, don’t take animals at all. Even those that do have limits on the number of animals on a flight, both in the passenger cabin and the cargo hold. You also need to know where and when your pet must be presented and what papers, such as the health certificate and so on, you need to bring.
  • Make sure your pet is in good health and isn’t a short-nosed breed. These cats find breathing a little difficult under the best of circumstances, and the stress of airline travel may be more than they can handle. Talk to your veterinarian in advance about any concerns.
  • Use an approved carrier that bears tags with contact phone numbers where you can be reached at both ends of the journey. (Your home number doesn’t help if you’re not at home.) Whether you carry your pet on board into the passenger cabin or must check him as cargo, include identification on your carrier. By law, the carrier should be just big enough for your cat to stand up and turn around in.

Make sure all the bolts securing the halves of the carriers are in place and tightened before checking in your pet. Don’t forget to put a safe harness and ID on your pet. In addition, you may want to consider inserting a microchip ID in your cat before you travel. (See Chapter All the Right Stuff for more information on microchipping.)

  • Don’t ship your pet if the weather is bad or when air traffic is heaviest. Avoid peak travel days such as around the Christmas holidays. Choose flights that are on the ground when the temperature is neither too hot nor too cold, not only at the departure airport, but also at the connecting and arriving airports. Although temperature doesn’t make a difference if your pet’s up top with you, it makes a big difference below: Cargo holds aren’t heated or cooled. In summer, a night flight is likely better, while the reverse is true in the winter. Be aware that there are regulations regarding the range of temperatures when a pet may be shipped. If the temperature on the ground in your departing, connecting, or arriving city falls outside these limits, you may run into unexpected delays or cancellations of your pet’s travel plans. Plan ahead.
  • Choose a direct flight; if that’s not possible, try for a route with a short layover. Most pet fatalities occur on the ground, when animals are left in their crates on the hot tarmac or in stifling cargo holds. Direct flights eliminate layovers, and short layovers reduce the time on the ground.
  • Remember that your cat’s life depends on the attentiveness of airline personnel if he’s not in your care in the passenger cabin. Most of these employees are excellent and caring, but mistakes do happen. You should be prepared to pester airline personnel to confirm that your pet has been loaded and has made the same connections you have. If your pet is flying unaccompanied, talk to freight-handling personnel at every airport your cat visits. Be polite but persistent; don’t take “I’m sure he’s fine; have some delicious honey-roasted peanuts” as an answer from a flight attendant. Make the staff check and report back.

Figure 18-3: The best way for your cat to fly is in the passenger compartment with you. If his carrier fits under the seat, many airlines allow him aboard.

Caution

Contrary to popular belief, you’re generally better off not having your cat tranquilized before flying. The combination of high altitude and limited oxygen is a challenge that your pet’s body is better prepared to meet if she’s not sedated. Still, your pet may be an exception. In the end, you and your veterinarian should decide on this issue.

The Cat’s Meow

The Air Transport Association has a free booklet, Air Travel for Your Dog or Cat. The booklet is available by sending a self-addressed, stamped, business-sized envelope to: ATA, 1301 Pennsylvania Blvd. N.W., Suite 1100, Washington, DC 20004.

Car travel

We know you love your cat’s company. We know that you love his purrfect puss. We also know that, for safety’s sake, your pet should be out of sight whenever the car is moving, appropriately confined in his carrier. A loose cat in a car is a danger that shouldn’t be risked — even if he doesn’t get under your feet, he could get up so far under the seat that you have a very hard time getting him out after you stop.

Tip

Your cat may be more comfortable — and certainly more quiet — if you cover his crate with a towel while the car is in motion. Experiment to see which method your cat likes best. If your cat doesn’t stop crying no matter what, bring along a squirt bottle and give him a shot of water whenever he pipes up. Either that or bring plenty of headache remedy, because after a few minutes of listening, you’re going to need it.

Your cat can go for as long as you can without stretching his legs. After you stop, put on his leash for safety before you let him out into the car and offer him water and a litter break — unless both are already available in his crate. Food is probably best left for morning and night in your motel room.

Caution

Never leave your cat unattended in a car. If the heat doesn’t get him, a thief may. If you’re traveling with your cat, your meals are mostly going to be of the drive-through variety. If you absolutely must leave your cat in the car — for your bathroom break, for example — park in the shade, roll the windows down a little, and be quick — and we mean like five minutes. Even better, take your cat and his carrier inside the stall with you. He has seen you in there before; he’s not going to be shocked.

Tip

If you want to kick around for a while, shopping and sightseeing, and still make sure your cat is safe, look up a local veterinarian in the phone book and see whether you can make arrangements for a few hours’ boarding. Gina has done so for years and found most veterinarians very amenable to helping out — usually at a very reasonable cost. You can also leave your pet in your motel room — but always in a crate for safety.

Moving Your Cat to a New Home

For many cats, one of the most stressful events of their lives is a distracting time for their owners as well — changing addresses. Combine traveling with suddenly being in unfamiliar surroundings — which may even smell like former animal occupants — and you can easily understand why more than a few cats spend a very long time freaked out and hiding under a bed after a move.

Your cat thinks his current home is just perfect, but because he really doesn’t get to vote, try to make the move as easy on him as possible. The key to success is to keep your cat secure before, during, and after the move. Anticipate possible problems and make your cat as comfortable as possible at every stage of the game.

Tip

One way to up the security factor is to order an ID tag with your new address and phone number as soon as you know them, and add it to your cat’s collar along with the old ID. That way, you can make sure that the new information is securely on your cat’s collar before any packing begins. If you’re traveling a long distance to your new home, use paper-key tags (available very cheaply from your local hardware or variety store) for temporary ID. Just jot your daily information, such as your name, phone number, and hotel room number, on the tag and put it on your cat’s collar. (More information on collars and IDs is in Chapter All the Right Stuff.)

Using a safe room for moving

The best way to move your cat is to confine him to a safe room before and after the move. The ideal setting is a room where your cat isn’t going to be disturbed — a spare bathroom is perfect — and outfit it with food and water, a litter box, a scratching post, a bed, and toys. (Don’t feel bad about confining your pet: He’s more comfortable in a small space, and he isn’t subjected to the stress of seeing people — perhaps strangers — tromping out of the house with his belongings. And don’t forget that his belongings, after all, include everything in your — um . . . we mean his — house.)

Cat Tracks

A safe room is also good for bringing a new cat into your home and for retraining any cat with furniture-destroying or litter-box-avoiding habits. For more information on how to use a safe room while introducing a new cat to your home, see Chapter Getting the Relationship Started Right. For help with feline behavior problems, see Chapters Solving Behavior Problems and Getting Good Litter Box Behavior.

Confining your cat also prevents his slipping out, which is a danger at both the old home and the new. Your cat could easily become scared, take off, and get lost, even in his familiar neighborhood. If your cat turns up back at your old place, a reunion can be hard to arrange, especially if you’ve moved to another city.

Your cat should be confined in his safe room the day before packing begins, moved to his new home in a carrier, and then confined again in his new safe room until the moving is over, the furniture arranged, and most of the dust settled.

Cat Tracks

A carrier is one of the best investments you can make in your cat’s safety. For more information on choosing one, see Chapter All the Right Stuff. A carrier plays a crucial role in disaster preparedness for pets; more information on planning for an emergency is in Chapter Ten Things to Know in Case of Disaster.

After everything’s settled, open the door to the safe room and let your cat explore at will, on his terms — but just within the limits of the house. He still needs to be kept completely inside for a couple weeks even if he’s not a completely indoor cat. This period of home detention helps him to start forming a bond with his new surroundings.

Caution

Trying to force a scared and stressed-out cat to do anything he doesn’t want to is hazardous to your health. After you arrive at your new home, don’t pull your cat out of his carrier. Instead, put the carrier in his safe room, open the carrier door, and let him come out into the room when he wants to — even if it’s not for an hour or more. After he’s a little calmer, you can coax him out with some fresh food or treats if you want, but don’t rush him, and don’t drag him out — or you may be bitten or scratched.

Figure 18-4: Keeping your cat confined before and after you move makes the transition easier and safer.

Leave the carrier, with the door open, in the safe room. It is the most familiar place in your new home in your cat’s mind and will likely be his chosen spot for a while until this new house becomes his new home.

The Cat’s Meow

Moving to a new home is a great time to convert your cat to an indoor-only pet. In your old home, he’d complain to the skies if you denied him access to his outside territory (until he got used to the fact that you’re not letting him out, that is). But in a new home, his new territory is what you let him have and no more. The transition to his being an indoor-only cat isn’t very hard on either of you and is certainly better for your cat in the long run.

Anticipating problems

Starting your cat off in a safe room after a move offers another benefit. It gives you a chance to refresh his training about your house rules, especially regarding destructive clawing, urine spraying, and litter box avoidance — all behavioral problems that can spring up if your cat is stressed and disoriented.

By limiting your cat’s options to the litter box and scratching post in his safe room, he quickly redevelops the good habits he had in your old home. After you start letting him out of the safe room to explore the rest of the house, add another litter box or two throughout the house to make the transition easier. You can gradually reduce the number of litter boxes later, after you’re sure your pet’s going where you want him to go.

Cat Tracks

Although your cat’s likely to settle back into his old, good habits in a couple weeks if you keep him confined and allow him to relax, talk to your veterinarian about any problems that continue. Your cat may be ill, or he may need antianxiety medication to help him settle in. And don’t forget to check out our advice on behavior problems in Chapters Solving Behavior Problems and 15.

Lost . . . and found, we hope

Although any cat can turn up missing at any time, moving is a time to be especially vigilant in protecting your cat.

Preventing a missing cat is a lot easier than trying to find one, which is why confinement indoors — permanent, ideally — is the number one way to keep your cat from getting lost.

Even indoor cats can slip out, though, which is why all pets should carry a current ID tag on their collar and even an imbedded microchip for permanent ID. (See Chapter All the Right Stuff for more information on both.) Another just-in-case measure: Keep good-quality pictures of your cat on hand in case you need to throw together a “lost cat” flier.

If your cat doesn’t show up for dinner one night, don’t just assume he’s going to turn up in a day or so — take action! Place an ad in your local newspaper and create and distribute fliers that include the cat’s picture, a description, and a reward, if you’re offering one (and we recommend that you do).

Post the fliers around the neighborhood and take some to area shelters and veterinarians and especially to emergency clinics. Scan “found” ads in the paper and check the shelters every other day, in person.

Don’t give up too soon: Pets have turned up weeks after their disappearance, so keep checking — and keep hoping.

Allowing time for readjustment

Your cat probably needs a couple weeks to settle into his new routine — to come out of the safe room, become familiar with the house, and use his scratching post and litter box normally again. Don’t rush him. Be observant of the signs that your cat is becoming less tentative and more confident in his explorations and, above all, don’t allow him outside until he’s comfortable with the inside of your house.

Cat Tracks

Cat body language can be very subtle. Learn how to tell when your cat’s relaxed, playful, or unhappy by reading Chapter Learning Feline Body Language.

If you plan to let your cat outside, take him out on a harness and leash and follow him around as he becomes familiar with the new area. Coax him back in by using praise and treats — let him walk in, if you can, instead of carrying him. Follow each outing with special play or petting time so that he develops a positive association with your new house and is therefore more likely to recognize it as home.

When is the right time to just let him loose? To be honest, it’s always a gamble. Do your best to give your cat all the time he needs to settle in and then let him explore the outside for another week or more under your supervision. In the end, however, if you insist on letting your cat outdoors, you just must chance it and hope for the best. If you take the time your cat needs to adjust, he’s probably going to stick around.

The home-again cat

Because cats bond to places as well as to people, some cat lovers find that their free-roaming pets keep showing up at their old home after a move, especially if the new home isn’t more than a couple miles from the old one.

If your pet is one of these home-again cats, the best suggestion we have for you is to convert your cat to an indoor pet, because crossing streets to go “home” considerably ups his risk factor, which is already much higher than an indoor cat’s. (See Chapters All the Right Stuff and Ten Ways to Make Your Indoor Cat Happier for the gear you need to keep your cat happy indoors.)

If permanent confinement is not possible, bring your cat inside for another couple weeks — you may have let him outdoors too soon. Dedicate extra time to playing with him, especially interactive games such as a cat fishing pole or toy on a string. This extra time helps to relieve him of some of his stress or excess anxiety and helps him form new attachments to his new home and you in it. Because unneutered males roam the most, having your cat altered if you haven’t already done so is also a good idea.

After you let your cat outdoors again, make sure the new people at your old home aren’t encouraging your cat to stay. Ask them not to feed him or pet him and to use a squirt bottle or other deterrent if they see him around.

Gina has an interesting case of a “home-again cat” who believes that her home is still his. Fortunately, his new home is right next door. George, a marmalade tabby, was once owned by the former owners of Gina’s house, who left him with the next-door neighbor after they moved. Although George and Gina’s dog, Andy, are sworn enemies, the cat always knows when the dogs aren’t home and Gina is — and he often pops in the pet door to say hello. Finding George’s scent in the house later drives Andy crazy, which no doubt delights the gregarious tabby.

by Gina Spadafori and Paul D. Pion

One Is Never Enough: The Multicat Household

In This Chapter

  • Deciding whether your cat needs a companion
  • Selecting cats that can live in harmony
  • Providing enough litter boxes, hiding places, and food
  • Understanding health concerns in multicat families

Littering: Should Your Cat Become a Parent?

In This Chapter

  • Discovering why spaying and neutering make sense
  • Understanding the sterilization process
  • Love, kitty-style
  • Taking care of your cat during pregnancy and delivery
  • Watching your kittens develop
  • Finding responsible homes for kittens and cats

Getting Good Litter Box Behavior

In This Chapter

  • Understanding why cats avoid the litter box
  • Deciding whether your cat’s problem is health-related
  • Encouraging your kitty to use the litter box
  • Discouraging spraying

Solving Behavior Problems

In This Chapter

  • Realizing why cats do what they do
  • Figuring out possible causes of “bad” behavior
  • Working to correct the problems
  • The controversy over declawing

Caring for an Older Cat

In This Chapter

  • Understanding the normal signs of aging
  • Caring for your cat’s teeth
  • Coping with three common health problems
  • Knowing when to let go
  • Providing for your cat in your will

Until recently, many people had cats who came and went — mostly went — with sad regularity. The common wisdom: You didn’t “own” cats. You fed them, admired their beauty, and enjoyed their company. You let them in and out of your house with a degree of good humor and grieved for them after they disappeared, after a year or two or maybe five, but generally not much more.

The reality can be so much different now. The popularity of cats has led to an explosion in knowledge of how to care for them at all stages of their lives, and geriatric care is no exception. Barring accidents, cats can live healthier, happier lives years longer than they ever have before — 10, 12, 14 years. Protected from the outside world, some cats can live even longer, with 16, 18, and even 20 years a possibility.

The difference in life span is not in the cats themselves but in the relationship we humans have with them — the expansion of both knowledge and responsibility. The secret to a cat’s long and comfortable life rests as much in your care as in the genes she inherited from her mother and father — and we help you make the most of both in this chapter.

Cat Tracks

We focus in this chapter on preventive-care measures that are especially important to older cats and diseases that are more common in felines that are middle-aged or older (more on age stages later in this chapter). You should also check out our more-general preventive-care guidelines in Chapter Preventive Health Care for Your Cat, especially the section on spotting health problems early.

To live with an older cat is to share a lifetime of love in a look, a pat, a purr. The bond you’ve spent years building is a thing of wonder now. You know each other. You’re comfortable and relaxed with each other. You love each other effortlessly. These years are special, and you should enjoy them.

Of course, these are also the years when you realize your cat isn’t going to be with you forever, and these thoughts can dampen your enjoyment of this special stage. Don’t feel sorry for your cat or yourself. Take a lesson from her and enjoy each day wholly. Your cat lives in the now and has no concept that the changes in her life are part of a natural process. She doesn’t know where the years lead. She lives day to day, spending her time purring in your lap or sleeping in the sun, demanding her dinner or chasing a toy across the carpet. If she feels good and is with you, she is happy. And so, too, should you be.

Remember

You’re the one who has the biggest influence over your cat’s life span. Protection, prevention, and early detection are the words to remember as your cat ages. We’re not going to sugarcoat this advice for you: The two most important things you can do to ensure your cat a long, healthy life is keep your pet inside and take care of spaying and neutering. An indoor cat is protected from the hazards of the outdoor world, especially cars and contagious viruses. And an altered cat is protected from health problems, such as reproductive-related cancers and infections and, especially in males, the constant pressure to roam in search of mates and to fight in defense of territory.

Cat Tracks

For more information on the indoor versus outdoor controversy, see Chapter A New Appreciation of the Cat. For more information on spaying and neutering, see Chapter Littering: Should Your Cat Become a Parent?.

How Old Is “Old”?

A widely held belief for determining whether a cat is middle-aged or old is that one year in a cat’s life equals four in a human’s. In truth, the situation is not that neat, and if you think about it, you can easily see why. Under a “one equals four” rule, a 1-year-old cat would be the equivalent in terms of mental and physical maturity to a human 4-year-old, and that’s clearly off.

Tip

A better equation is to count the first year of a cat’s life as being comparable to the time a human reaches the early stages of adulthood — the age of 15 or so. Like a human adolescent, a 1-year-old cat looks fairly grown up and is physically capable of becoming a parent but lacks emotional maturity.

The second year of a cat’s life picks up some of that maturity and takes a cat to the first stages of full adulthood in humans — a 2-year-old cat is roughly equivalent to a person in the mid-20s.

From there, the “four equals one” rule works pretty well. A cat of 3 is still young, comparable to a person of 29. A 6-year-old cat, similar to a 41-year-old person, is in the throes of middle age; a 12-year-old cat, similar to a 65-year-old person, has earned the right to slow down a little. A cat who lives to be 20 is the feline equivalent of nearly 100 in terms of human life span!

Figure 13-1: Sammy was 19 when he posed for his formal portrait, a good example of the difference a lifetime of proper care can make.

Remember

As with humans, age is relative. An unloved and uncared-for cat is not going to enjoy life at 6, whereas one twice that age, given proper care and nutrition, may be nearly as playful as a kitten.

Normal Signs of Aging

Aging comes in a mostly predictable way to cats, so subtle that you may not notice the signs at first until suddenly you look at your pet and think: “How long has she been losing weight?” or “When did she stop trying to jump up to her favorite spot?” The thought right after that is often even more upsetting: “Is this serious? Should I be worried?”

Although anything that worries you warrants checking in with your veterinarian, if for nothing more than your peace of mind, knowing what’s normal for your cat goes a long way toward easing the years for you both. (A keen ob-server of body language and emotion, your cat knows if you’re upset, after all.)

Caution

Normal signs of aging are gradual. Sudden problems may be indicative of a serious health problem. If your cat changes quickly in appearance or behavior, have her seen by your veterinarian right away.

Decline of the senses

As your cat ages, her senses of hearing, vision, and smell may worsen, although different cats age in different ways. Some of these changes may be barely noticeable to you as your cat adapts to them, and others may be more obvious, such as foul breath due to dental disease that requires more-frequent attention to control with advancing age.

Other changes can be very hard to notice. Some people aren’t even aware that their pets are deaf, although imagining how that can happen isn’t that hard. After all, even in the best of circumstances, your cat pays attention only when she wants to!

Tip

You may suspect that your cat has a hearing loss when you notice that your cat isn’t reacting to the sounds that always used to get a response, such as the whirring of the electric can opener near dinner time. To test your hunch, check by snapping your fingers behind her head. Her ears should swivel back to the sound.

Caution

Although your cat can get along just fine indoors if her hearing isn’t as keen as it was, deafness really does put her at risk outdoors. Even the cat who has survived into old age by being street savvy can’t dodge a car if she can’t hear it coming.

Your cat’s sense of taste may have an important effect on her appetite, resulting in a problem in some older cats. Smell is extremely important when your cat is determining what’s enticing enough to try, and if this sense has declined, nothing may seem worth tasting.

Tip

Heat makes smell more intense. If your cat isn’t eating, call your veterinarian. If everything checks out okay there, try enticing your cat by serving canned food at room temperature or a bit warmer.

Changes in appearance

Because your cat’s body is undergoing changes internally, you may notice changes externally. Cats lose muscle mass as they age, so your pet may seem bonier than when he was young. Other cats may become obese, eating the same amount of calories despite a reduced level of activity. (For more information on obesity, see Chapter Feeding Your Cat.)

Change may show up in your pet’s coat, leaving it feeling drier and more sparse and the skin less supple. Your cat may not be as efficient at grooming himself as he ages — or, as he becomes more fragile, he may not be able to do the chore so diligently or have the interest in grooming that he once did.

Cat Tracks

Your cat looks better and feels better if you assist him with his grooming. For more information on how to help, see Chapter Good Grooming.

A new kitten?

Because older cats do so poorly when stressed, think very seriously before introducing a kitten to your household.

A kitten’s playful ways just aren’t appreciated by a geriatric cat and may prompt behavior problems such as litter box avoidance or a loss of appetite — the latter a serious health concern in all cats, but especially in older ones.

Keep your older cat healthy by playing with him by using a cat fishing pole or toy on a string. He’s going to appreciate the time you spend with him, especially because you’re happy to play on his terms, leave him alone after he’s had enough, and not keep pestering him like you do with a kitten.

You have plenty of time in your life for a new kitten. If you have an older cat, postpone adding a youngster and let your cat enjoy his senior years as he sees fit.

Figure 13-2: Many older cats tend to sleep more — and they deserve their naps! Watch out, however, for signs of extreme disinterest in life.

Behavior changes

The temperament of healthy older cats is really something to anticipate with pleasure in many cases. Your cat may mellow over time, becoming more interested in lapsitting and less in crawling up your drapes and performing death-defying leaps from atop tall pieces of furniture. This softening of attitude may be what you notice most as you consider your older cat, but other behavior changes may appear that you should also think about.

Your cat may sleep more, but you need to watch that, too. Extreme disinterest in the world around him can also be a sign of disease, as can an increased energy level. Be aware, too, of changes in appetite or thirst — although your cat needs fewer calories and more fluids as he ages, extreme changes need to be checked out.

Caution

Because behavior changes in older cats are often the result of health problems, be aware of these changes and be sensitive to how quickly they occur. The formerly sweet-natured cat who’s now cranky or defensive, for example, may act that way because of chronic pain. Or the cat who suddenly neglects his litter box routines may have an infection or even diabetes. Because your cat can’t talk about what’s bothering him, you need to listen to his body and be aware.

Special Care for Kitty Teeth

Some cats, like some people, can go a lifetime without rigorous dental care without ill effects (other than disgusting everyone who smells their breath). However, this is the exception and not the rule. A little care can go a long way toward making your cat more appealing to be near as well as preventing significant dental problems. If you’ve paid attention to his teeth his entire life, you’ve done your pet a wonderful service. If you haven’t, you have some catching up to do to ensure that dental problems don’t make your cat unhappy. Bad teeth can lead to pain while eating. In addition, some people believe periodontal disease can lead to other ill effects when bacteria (causing disease in the mouth) enters the bloodstream and causes infection in the kidneys and other organs. Don’t ignore these problems!

The older-cat physical

Annual physicals are even more important as your cat ages and need to be more extensive than when she was younger. Your veterinarian may suggest blood and urine tests, for example, to determine what’s normal for your cat so that subsequent changes in the test values are more apparent.

This well-cat appointment is a good time to address your concerns about your cat’s aging and get all your questions answered. Encourage your veterinarian to discuss your cat’s condition thoroughly and all the care options that are available to you.

Although feeling comfortable with your veterinarian and confident in her abilities is always important, such considerations are especially important if your cat is older. You’re working together as a team to ensure your cat’s health: Make sure your veterinarian is someone you trust so you can make the best decisions on your cat’s behalf. (Information on choosing a veterinarian is in Chapter Preventive Health Care for Your Cat.)

When your cat is comfortable and relaxed, gently raise his lip and take a look. You’re sure to see the yellowing and wear that’s a normal part of the aging process of his teeth, and that’s okay. You’re looking for signs of developing periodontal disease, which is a relentless chronic process that inevitably leads to oral discomfort, tooth loss, and poor general health. These signs in-clude plaque; a brown, brittle substance called calculus that builds up on the tooth surfaces, especially near the gumline; and gingivitis, which is the in-flammation of gum tissue. In severely affected mouths, tooth root abscesses are not uncommon and require prompt veterinary attention.

You can keep your pet’s teeth healthy by brushing them at least three times a week — see Chapter Preventive Health Care for Your Cat for how to make the task easy on you both. Before you can start such preventive care, however, your veterinarian must treat the problems that have already developed. This care likely involves a cleaning and polishing under anesthesia, along with the treatment or removal of any diseased teeth and diagnosis and management of any further dental problems

If your cat had nothing more than plaque buildup and mild inflammation, he’s likely to go home with clean teeth and dental care instructions. From there, the task of keeping those teeth in good shape with regular brushing and an eye toward the need for further veterinary care is in your hands.

Common Problems

Most health problems older cats get are also seen in younger cats, with the notable exception of hyperthyroidism, which we discuss in this section. Some diseases pop up frequently in older cats, however, and we want to make sure that you’re aware of them.

Cat Tracks

Because many health problems can occur at any age, please don’t neglect the more-general chapters on veterinary care, especially Chapters Preventive Health Care for Your Cat and Common Cat Health Problems, which include sections on preventive-care measures that can keep some worries from ever surfacing at all.

An excellent book-length source of information on older cats is Your Aging Cat: How to Keep Your Cat Physically and Mentally Healthy into Old Age, by Kim Campbell Thornton and Dr. John Hamil (IDG Books Worldwide).

Diabetes

Diabetes is a loss of control of the amount of sugar in the blood — a cat with diabetes has a very high concentration of sugar in the blood and urine. There are two types of diabetes: The first is called insulin-dependent diabetes, in which the pancreas fails to produce enough of the hormone insulin to regulate blood-sugar levels; the other form of the disease occurs when the body does not respond properly to the insulin that the pancreas produces.

Caution

Fat cats are more susceptible to diabetes, which is another reason that preventing obesity is so important.

Cats with diabetes may appear to be losing weight while eating actively. They will also drink and urinate more frequently in large volumes. You may notice your cat’s urine is “sticky,” like sugar water, as a result of the high sugar content.

Caution

Don’t take these symptoms lightly! In more advanced cases, cats can become acutely ill, even comatose. Any markedly depressed cat should be considered potentially very ill, and you should seek veterinary care immediately.

If your cat is diagnosed with diabetes, your veterinarian will suggest dietary changes that may include controlled weight loss and high-fiber diets. Some-times, medications can help to control the blood sugar level. In most cases, though, you will need to give insulin injections to your cat. Your veterinarian will demonstrate giving injections and discuss how you will together monitor your cat’s progress and medication needs. Be sure to keep a diary of all changes to your cat’s medication needs and responses; this diary will help you and your veterinarian better control your cat’s diabetes.

The Cat’s Meow

Some cases of diabetes can be cured by finding and treating other diseases that are making the cat’s system more resistant to insulin. Some cats will spontaneously recover permanently or temporarily from diabetes. We are not trying to raise false hopes that your cat will have a miracle cure, but rather trying to increase your awareness that healthy or ill, you need to remain always aware of changes in your cat’s behavior.

Hyperthyroidism

What got into that cat? It’s a question people with older cats often wonder, as their pets seem to lose weight, even though they’re eating more, and perhaps get even more energetic as they age, instead of less.

Although having an oldster with the energy of a kitten may seem wonderful, that zooming cat may be sick with a disease that can kill if left unchecked. Hyperthyroidism, the overproduction of thyroid hormone, is among the most common maladies in older cats. Hyperthyroidism is certainly the great impersonator within older cats. Paul has a very focused approach to medicine and is largely not in favor of “shotgun” testing, but he does believe that every older cat should have thyroid hormone levels monitored or at least tested at the first sign of any change in health. Hyperthyroidism can be present in many ways — ranging from the overactive thin cat who eats all the time to the “just ain’t doing right cat” that befuddles veterinarian after veterinarian.

When a cat produces too much thyroid hormone, his metabolic rate can soar to the point where it can burn off a third of his body weight. Left unchecked, kidney, heart, liver, and other problems can develop, sometimes leading to death. However, remember that none of these symptoms must be present, and even overweight cats may be suffering from hyperthyroidism.

The Cat’s Tracks

The treatment of hyperthyroidism is one of the bright spots of feline geriatric medicine. Although the disease is common, several good care options can, in many cases, cure the problem.

Veterinary medicine offers three methods for treating hyperthyroidism. The one chosen often depends on location and the overall health and disposition of the pet. Here are your options:

  • Radioactive iodine therapy: This option is the preferred method of treatment, and you can easily see why: cure rates of 90 to 95 percent, with no further treatment. The cat gets one dose of a radioactive substance that kills the overproducing cells without directly harming other body functions. It’s a one-day matter, but what follows presents a dilemma for many owners: The treatment creates a radioactive cat that must be kept on site at the clinic or college for 7 to 14 days, after which the animal is considered safe to go home. Another problem is that this treatment is not available in all areas, adding travel time to the equation for those who want to pursue it. Veterinary colleges are one source of this treatment, as are specialty practices in many urban areas.
  • Surgery: Another option is a thyroidectomy, the surgical removal of the offending thyroid gland or glands, which can be done by a pet’s regular veterinarian or colleague nearby. The problem: The surgery is delicate, with a chance that other problems may result. Surgery is a good option if radioactive iodine treatment is not available, or if the cat hasn’t the temperament to endure confinement.
  • Medication: Hyperthyroidism can be treated with drugs. Tapazole is most commonly prescribed but other options are available. Some cats don’t tolerate Tapazole well, and some owners aren’t up to the task of administering multiple daily pills for the duration of a pet’s life. Because of these problems, drug therapy is often used to stabilize a cat prior to the other treatments in order to address the immediate health problems caused by hyperthyroidism until a long-term solution can be put into place.

Anesthesia and the older cat

As common as anesthesia is in veterinary medicine, many misconceptions exist about its use where older animals are concerned. The idea that the risk of anesthesia outweighs the importance of preventive veterinary care (such as dentistry) is no longer valid. Yes, it is true that no anesthetic procedure is without risk. However, in the hands of a good veterinarian and his staff, anesthesia, even in the elderly patient, has become a routine and very safe procedure.

The risks can be greatly minimized by a history, physical examination, and a few basic tests beforehand, including a laboratory evaluation of blood and urine, and possibly a chest X ray. Although these tests admittedly add to the cost of a procedure, they enable your veterinarian to understand fully the health status of your cat before anesthetizing him. During the procedure, placement of an intravenous catheter and administration of fluids can further add to the safety of the procedure. In the case of dental work, your veterinarian may prescribe antibiotics before, during, and after the procedure.

If finances are a big concern and you have to choose where to save in order to be able to afford the needed procedure, money spent on appropriate anesthetic monitoring and IV fluids during the anesthetic procedure likely provides the greatest return in ensuring that your cat’s anesthetic procedure is as eventless as possible.

No discussion of anesthetic danger can be complete without a few words on your responsibilities where anesthesia is concerned:

  • Follow your veterinarian’s instructions on preparing your pet for surgery. If no food is specified, make sure you deliver your pet with an empty stomach. Following this one piece of advice is one of the easiest and most basic ways to reduce risk. During anesthesia, the contents of a full stomach can be regurgitated with the unfortunate potential complication of being inhaled into the lungs. In general, you should completely withhold food the night before but continue to allow free access to water until the morning of the procedure.
  • Be prepared to provide special home care for your pet after surgery. Releasing animals before sedation wears off fully may be common practice for some veterinarians. Such animals must be kept safe from hot or cold environments because their reflexes are reduced. If you do not feel comfortable caring for a sedated pet, arrange for your veterinarian to extend the care. If your veterinarian does not run a 24-hour hospital, be sure to have the number of your local emergency clinic handy in case complications develop following your cat’s anesthesia.
  • Make sure that you understand what the procedures are and what to expect. Pets commonly have a cough after anesthesia, for example, because the tube used to deliver the gas may cause some irritation. If the cough does not clear in a couple days, call your veterinarian.

No matter what the age of the pet, the chances are very high that the anesthetic will present no problem if both you and your veterinarian work to minimize the risk. And the payoffs, especially those involving dental care, can be significant.

Caution

Recent evidence suggests a small percentage of cats treated for hyperthyroidism develop kidney problems. This slight risk should not dissuade you from treating your cat. It may be a reason to try drug therapy first to “test” the response of the kidneys to treatment. We expect that more information will be available on this in the near future and recommend that you discuss this issue with your veterinarian before making a final therapy decision.

Obstipation

Obstipation is the complete inability to defecate, resulting in a very painful and serious condition for your cat that needs veterinary attention. The causes of this backup are not well understood. The intestines become dilated and unable to push stool out of the body normally.

Be alert to your cat’s litter box habits. If your indoor cat is straining or crying out while trying to defecate or if you notice an absence of feces, your cat has a problem. Oddly, this blockage may initially appear as diarrhea, because your cat’s body, so irritated by the retained feces, may generate lots of watery fluid or mucus to try to cope. This discharge may seem like “ordinary” loose stools when passed.

Remember

Any change in your cat’s litter box habits is potentially a sign of disease and must be checked out by your veterinarian to ensure that problems are caught while they can still be treated.

Your veterinarian is likely to suggest taking an X ray to determine what’s behind the problem. Enemas are the short-term solution; drugs or surgical methods may eventually be required. Long-term care may require the use of drugs or laxatives to keep stools soft, as well as an increased attention to your cat’s grooming to cut down the volume of hair he swallows. Drug treatments have met with mixed results. Surgery to remove part of the colon is rather extensive and can lead to problems with diarrhea; however, in many cats the surgery can be rewarding.

Cat Tracks

We touch on just a few of the most common health problems in older cats, but many other health conditions afflict cats young and old. Check out our more general health care information in Chapter Common Cat Health Problems, and learn the importance of good preventive care by reading Chapter Preventive Health Care for Your Cat. Above all, consult your veterinarian.

Knowing When It’s “Time”

Euthanasia, the technical term for “putting a pet to sleep,” is one of the hardest decisions you must ever make, and it doesn’t get any easier, no matter how many times over the years you face it. Your veterinarian can offer you advice, and your friends can offer you support, but no one can make the decision for you. If you live with an elderly or terminally ill pet, you look in her eyes every morning and ask yourself: Is this the day?

To know for sure is impossible. But take solace in knowing that in almost 20 years of practice, Paul has only four times had to look at an owner and say, “Hey, it is time.” Although we say to know for sure is impossible, Paul firmly believes that owners do know when it is time and respects their decisions without question. Asking guidance from your friends, family, and veterinarian is very appropriate, but only you can make the final decision. Good friends, family, and veterinarians will offer good “if it were my pet” advice, but they should also respect your decision without question.

Some owners don’t wait until their pet’s discomfort becomes pain, and they choose euthanasia much sooner than many other people would. Some owners use an animal’s appetite as the guide — if an old or ill animal is no longer interested in eating, they reason, he’s not interested in anything at all. Other owners wait until no doubt remains that the time is at hand. Each guideline is the right one for some cat and some owner at some time. You do the best you can, and then you try to put the decision behind you and deal with the grief.

Remember

The incredible advances in veterinary medicine in the past couple of decades have made the decisions even more difficult for many people. Not too long ago, the best you could do for a seriously ill pet was to make her comfortable until that wasn’t possible anymore. Nowadays, nearly every advantage of human medicine — from chemotherapy to pacemakers — is available to our pets.

If you can afford such care and have a realistic expectation that it can improve your pet’s life — instead of simply prolonging it — then it’s an option that you should pursue. But let nothing push you into making a decision based on guilt or wishful thinking.

Euthanasia options

Should you be with your pet at the end? What should you do with the remains? The questions are all difficult, but no answers are wrong.

Euthanasia is a quick and peaceful process as performed by a veterinarian. The animal is unconscious within seconds and dead within less than a minute; the euphemism “put to sleep” is a perfect description. Those who attend the procedure come away reassured that their pets felt no fear or pain.

Some people say that staying with a pet at his death is the final gift of love, but no decision you make regarding the last few minutes of an animal’s life changes the love you shared for the years that preceded those final moments. If you want to be there, by all means stay. We believe you may later find it comforting, and staying until the end will help you with closure. But leaving is no less a humane and loving gesture. You know in your heart what’s best for you and your cat.

Tip

Call ahead to set the appointment and make clear to the receptionist what you’re coming for. That way, the practice can ensure you don’t need to sit in the waiting room but instead are immediately ushered into an exam room if you choose to remain with your cat.

Your veterinarian is going to do his best to make sure that all your questions are answered and that you’re comfortable with everything before proceeding. He may clip the fur on your cat’s foreleg for easier and quicker access to the vein for the injection of the euthanizing agent; he may also choose to insert a catheter or sedate your pet.

Remember

Crying is normal, and your veterinarian understands. So, too, we believe, does your pet.

You may want to spend a few minutes with your pet afterward, and your veterinarian understands that, as well, and will give you all the time you need alone to begin the process of dealing with your loss. (If your pet dies while in the veterinarian’s care, you may also choose to view the body to give yourself closure and let the healing begin. Discuss this decision with your veterinarian.)

You may be more comfortable with having your pet euthanized at home. If so, discuss the matter with your veterinarian directly. Many vets extend this special service to long-time clients. If yours doesn’t, you may consider making arrangements with a veterinarian who does house calls.

Dealing with loss

Many people are surprised at the powerful emotions that erupt after a pet’s death, and they’re embarrassed by their grief. Remembering that pets have meaning in our lives beyond the love we feel for the animal may help. Often, we don’t realize that we’re grieving not only for the pet we loved but also for the special time the animal represented and the ties to other people in our lives. The death of a cat who was a gift as a kitten from a friend who has died, for example, may trigger bittersweet memories of another love lost.

Tip

Taking care of yourself is important at this difficult time. Some people — the “it’s just a cat” crowd — don’t understand your feelings and may shrug off your grief as foolish. The company of other animal lovers is very important. Seek them out to share your feelings. You may be able to find a pet-loss support group in your community, or you can go to the Internet, where sites for sharing the loss are plentiful. The outpouring of support in these virtual communities is heartfelt.

A difficult time, no doubt, but remember: In time, the memories become a source of pleasure, not pain. You’re not on any set timetable, but it happens. We promise.

The Cat’s Meow

A handful of books and one really fine video may help you to help your child with the loss of a pet. From Fred Rogers (yes, “Mr. Rogers,” of the Neighborhood) comes the book When a Pet Dies (Putnam) and the video Death of a Goldfish. Rachel Biale’s My Pet Died (Tricycle Press) not only helps children cope better by giving them pages to fill in, but also offers parents advice in special pages that can be torn out. Finally, Judith Viorst’s The Tenth Good Thing About Barney (Aladdin) is a book that experts in pet loss have been recommending for years.

A great book for adults is Dr. Wallace Sife’s The Loss of a Pet (Howell Book House).

What about the remains?

You can handle your pet’s remains in many ways, and doing so is easier if you make your decisions beforehand. The choices include having your municipal animal-control department pick up the body, burying the pet in your backyard or at another site (where it’s legal and with the land owner’s permission, of course), arranging for cremation, or contracting with a pet cemetery for full services and burial. Again, no choice is “wrong.” Whatever feels right to you and comforts you best is what you should do.

The next topic is a difficult one but one that Paul insisted we add to this second edition. The issue is postmortem examination. If your pet dies unexpectedly or while under the care of your veterinarian, and there is any question as to the cause of death or your veterinarian believes there are lessons to be learned by performing a postmortem examination, we encourage you to agree. This may not help your cat but it may very well help hundreds or thousands of other cats. What better way to demonstrate your love of your cat than to assist in the advancement of care for other cats with similar health problems?

Finally, several manufacturers offer tasteful and attractive markers for your yard to memorialize your pet; these items are often advertised in the back of such magazines as Cat Fancy. Other marker choices include large rocks or slabs of stone or a tree or rose bush. Even if you choose not to have your pet’s body or ashes returned, placing a memorial in a special spot may soothe you.

The Cat’s Meow

One great way to celebrate the memory of your cat is to make a donation to your local humane society, regional school of veterinary medicine, or other favorite animal charity. A donation in a beloved pet’s name is a wonderful thing to do for a friend who’s lost a pet as well.

You’re not alone

You may find talking to others about your pet’s death helpful. Ask your veterinarian about pet-loss support groups. Almost unheard of a couple decades ago, such groups are available in many communities today. An excellent resource online is The Association for Pet Loss and Bereavement www.aplb.org

Veterinary schools and colleges have been among the leaders in creating programs to help pet lovers deal with loss. A handful now operate pet-loss hot lines staffed by veterinary students trained to answer questions, offer materials that may help you (including guidelines for helping children with loss), and just plain listen. These are wonderful programs, and they’re free for the cost of the call. (If you call during off hours, they call you back, collect.)

Locations, operating hours, and phone numbers of pet-loss hot lines are as follows:

University of California at Davis School of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., Mondays through Fridays; Tuesdays through Thursdays during summer 530-752-4200

Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 6 to 9 p.m., Tuesdays through Thursdays 607-253-3932

Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 6:30 to 9 p.m., Mondays through Thursdays; 1 to 3 p.m. Saturdays 509-335-5704

University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 7 to 9 p.m., Mondays through Fridays 352-392-4700, Ext. 4080

Michigan State University College of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 6:30 to 9:30 p.m. Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday 517-432-2696

Ohio State University College of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 614-292-1823

Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 6 to 9 p.m., Monday though Friday 508-839-7966

Virginia-Maryland Regional College of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 6 to 9 p.m., Tuesday and Thursday 540-231-8038

University of Illinois at Champaign Urbana College of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 7 to 9 p.m., Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday 217-244-2273

Iowa State University College of Veterinary Medicine Hours of operation: 6 to 9 p.m., Monday through Friday 888-478-7574

by Gina Spadafori and Paul D. Pion