The journey to transforming yourself into a strong Pack Leader is different for everyone. For some, it might be a long trip, while it may feel like a walk around the block for others. Either way, it all begins with one simple step: seeing your dog for what she really is. And the best way to do that is by relying on your knowledge of the Natural Dog Laws and the Core Principles. Next, let’s put these into action with some practical techniques.
Knowledge is just one part of the equation in creating balance in your life. It’s wonderful to be armed with information, but you have to use those lessons to set up the proper framework for you and your dog. The five Pack Leader Techniques described in this chapter are all based on a solid foundation of the Natural Dog Laws and Core Principles. Don’t be deceived by the simplicity of these techniques—they are powerful tools, and their use will result in a much more rewarding relationship between you and your dog.
PACK LEADER TECHNIQUE #1:
Project Calm, Assertive Energy.
Because energy is so important in the dog world, humans have to know and understand what kind of energy to project to have a happy, healthy dog. Projecting calm, assertive energy is one of the essential parts of being a Pack Leader. If you’re looking for a great role model for calm, assertive energy, think of Oprah Winfrey or the Olympic swimmer Michael Phelps. Their strong leadership in their respective fields is communicated not only in how they speak but also in how they carry themselves—self-possessed, confident, and in control.
Your dog’s energy is different than yours. Your dog should be calm and submissive, the natural state of a “follower” in a dog pack. When a dog embodies this calm, submissive energy, she relaxes her posture, holds her ears back, and responds easily to your commands.
Often, the first energy that a puppy experiences after birth is his mom’s calm, assertive energy that gives the pup his first taste of safety and security. Later, the puppy will most likely follow a pack leader who projects the same calm, assertive energy out of association. As pack followers, dogs return a calm, submissive energy that completes the pack balance. It is important to understand that most dogs are born to be submissive, because there can only be so many pack leaders.
When you couple a calm, assertive person with a calm, submissive dog, it creates a natural balance that nurtures stability and creates a balanced, centered, and happy dog. But when a naturally submissive dog lives with a human who does not lead, she will attempt to right the pack balance by filling what she sees as a vacant pack leader role. This is how behavior problems develop.
To establish yourself as the Pack Leader, you must always project a calm, assertive energy. For instance, when dogs come into our homes, many of them are encountering intense human emotional energy for the very first time. We shower them with affection and babble at them in high-pitched baby talk, so they see us as excited energy—not calm and assertive. This is why many dogs don’t listen to their human caretakers. Their mothers never acted this way. It’s unnatural to them.
For evidence, you need look no further than my partnership with my four-year-old pit bull, Junior. Junior and I have been together since he was a puppy. We spend all of our time together. Junior has more frequent-flier mileage than most people—over 200,000 miles crisscrossing the world helping to educate, rescue, or rehabilitate dogs in need. I rarely have to speak to him, yet he knows what I want him to do. Our communication is almost all nonverbal. When I am in a large city like New York, I will take Junior for a nighttime walk off leash. Junior stays right by my side, and people are amazed at how “in tune” Junior is to me. There is probably no other city in the world that is more distracting than Manhattan, but during our nightly walks, Junior stays right by my side, reading my every move.
Last summer, Junior and I went to New York City for a press trip. During the trip, I received a frantic call from a very wealthy client who had a problem with her Airedale terrier, named Paris. Her owner had decided to throw a big tenth birthday party for Paris in the posh Hamptons. It was going to be one of the biggest social parties of the summer season. The only problem was that Paris had become fearful and refused to come out from under the dining room table. This went on for two days, and the problem persisted until the day before the party. The owner was desperate, so Junior and I stopped over to help.
Paris’s energy was that of severe fear, which was resulting in aggression. I led Junior into the house, and he sensed the potential danger. I just stood back; Junior knew what I wanted him to do. After 15 minutes with Paris under the table, he was able to bring Paris out where I could work with her to relieve her anxiety and fear. Needless to say, Junior was invited to the birthday party the next day.
Without having the luxury of language, dogs have to rely on their advanced intuition, senses, and instincts. And we humans need to learn to recognize them. When we do that, we can achieve amazing results.
TECHNIQUES IN ACTION:
How to Change Your Energy
As I’ve said, your energy will determine how your dog sees you in your role as Pack Leader. All your energy—good and bad—is a reflection of your state of body, mind, and intention. Calm, assertive energy, for instance, reveals itself with a confident demeanor, straight shoulders, a deliberate gait, and the clear-sightedness that comes from knowing exactly what you want from this moment. The following exercise will help you identify your current energy and the energy of those around you by focusing on two opposing states: positive and negative.
IDENTIFYING POSITIVE ENERGY
It helps to have a partner or a mirror for this exercise:
1 Standing in front of a trusted friend (or mirror), think about a time when you have felt truly positive about life. Picture yourself at a happy, expansive moment and channel that energy. Close your eyes if it helps. For a minute or two, do your best to put yourself back in that positive state of mind.
2 Adjust your body to match the positive state in your head. Notice what’s happening to your arms, chest, shoulders, and facial expression. How are you breathing?
3 If you’re with someone, ask that person to mirror any changes he or she notices. Like I’ve said, energy is contagious and influences those around you. Ask that person to demonstrate to you the way your body changed as you filled yourself with positive thoughts.
4 Being aware of your energy is the first step toward changing it. In the hours or days after this exercise, try to replicate the positive energy state you created. Even if you are not feeling good, adjusting your body and mind in a positive direction can have a powerful impact on the energy you convey to the world and to your dog.
IDENTIFYING NEGATIVE ENERGY
Do this exercise with a partner or in front of a mirror:
1 Picture yourself at a time when you were feeling down, angry, or frustrated. For a minute or two, put yourself in that negative state of mind.
2 Adjust your body to match the negative state of mind. Notice what’s happening to your arms, chest, shoulders, and facial expression. How has your breathing changed?
3 If you’re with someone, ask that person to mirror any changes he or she notices in your body language. Negative energy is just as contagious as positive energy and influences those around you. Ask that person to show you the way your body and energy changed as you filled your head with negative thoughts and fear or anxiety.
4 Take a deep breath and return to the positive state from the first part of the exercise. For a minute or two, bring your mind back to that happy, powerful, inspired state. Notice how much control you have over your positive and negative states of mind.
You may try repeating these exercises with your dog near you to see what kind of reaction occurs with your dog. How does he act when your energy changes? You can also practice with your children or a spouse. Once you understand how you are directly affecting others, you will become more conscious of your own energy and how it can influence your dog and others.
PACK LEADER TECHNIQUE #2:
Give Exercise, Discipline, and Affection—in That Order.
If you’re at all familiar with my work, then you know my “fulfillment formula” for dogs: “Exercise, Discipline, and then Affection … in that order.” Unfortunately, people in many places give their dogs affection, affection, and affection. The end result of this is an unbalanced dog.
I hear a lot of excuses from people who don’t provide their dogs enough exercise through the walk: “I don’t have time to walk the dog every day”; “My dog plays in the yard all day long, so he doesn’t need a walk”; “I have mobility issues and cannot walk my dog”; and so on, and so forth. The truth is: If you take responsibility by adopting a dog, then you must accept responsibility for all aspects of her life, and exercise is one of them.
If you don’t have time, then make the time. If you physically cannot walk your dog yourself, then hire a professional dog walker or, at the least, invest in a treadmill. Even if your dog has a yard, he still needs to be walked—running around the yard all day is not the proper type of exercise, as it is not focused and it is not natural for a dog to remain trapped in one location. Remember, the walk is not about the dog going to the bathroom; the walk isn’t over just because your dog has done her business.
The purpose of exercising your dog through the walk is twofold. First, it drains your dog’s excess energy in a natural, focused way. When a dog is walking and moving forward, his mind is also directed forward, as it would be in natural pack migration to hunt for food. This provides mental stimulation, as well as work for the dog to do before receiving food. Another purpose of the walk is to bond with your dog, and I will have more on this subject later in this chapter.
The second part of the formula, discipline, is intimidating to some people, probably because the word can have negative connotations. A lot of people interpret discipline to mean “punishment,” but it does not mean this. A better definition is training to act in accordance with the rules. A “well-disciplined army” does not mean a bunch of soldiers who have been whipped; it means a group of people who work well together because they follow the same rules. That is the goal with the discipline part of the formula, to ensure that you and your dog work well together under the rules.
The most important thing to teach your dog is to enter a calm, submissive state when you request it, and the quickest way to ensure this behavior is, of course, to drain your dog’s energy through exercise. This is why discipline is the second part of the formula. Once your dog is tired, her mind will turn toward rest, and moving her into calm submission will be much easier. It is also essential that your dog is in a calm, submissive state before moving on to the last part of the formula.
After your dog has been exercised, has followed your requests, and is in a calm, submissive state, only then is it time to give affection. This is an ideal time to feed your dog, because she has worked for it on the walk and by following the rules. You can also offer treats, or petting, but you should stop immediately if your dog moves out of the calm, submissive state. If you offer playtime as a reward, then stop if your dog starts to become aggressive or overly excited.
Although I constantly have to teach people about exercise and discipline, I rarely have to explain how to give affection. That’s why it is so important to learn this technique and repeat it to yourself: “Exercise, Discipline, and then Affection … in that order.”
PACK LEADER TECHNIQUE #3:
Establish Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations—and Enforce Them.
So you’re living in the moment, projecting calm, assertive energy, and working with Mother Nature by remembering the five Natural Dog Laws and following the Core Principles. You’re practicing Exercise, Discipline, and Affection. Now what? To completely establish your status as the Pack Leader, you need to give your dog Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations, and then enforce them consistently so you do not confuse your dog. This structure plus consistency will do wonders for your dog’s state of mind.
In the natural pack, a puppy’s mother begins doing this from the very beginning, using touch and scent to control where the puppy goes, when he plays, and when he eats. If the puppy is misbehaving, the mother will gently take the puppy’s head in her mouth as a correction, and she will pick the pup up by the scruff and carry him back to the den if he wanders too far. A balanced mother dog is never emotional or excited when dealing with her puppies.
Adult dogs also need to know what they can and cannot do, and as their Pack Leader, you need to teach them. At the very least, you should teach your dog the basic commands of “sit,” “stay,” “drop it,” “come,” “down,” and “heel.” When training, begin by using your energy and gestures rather than words. “Sit” is a perfect command to begin with, because you’d be surprised how many dogs naturally sit when you approach them with calm, assertive energy and lean in slightly toward them.
When a dog has performed the desired command, reward her with a treat, praise, or whatever motivates that particular dog. As you repeat the training and the dog becomes better at complying with the command immediately, you can begin to add the spoken command if you’d like. Keep in mind, though, that it doesn’t matter what words you use. A dog can just as easily learn to sit at the sound of the word pencil.
During training, if your dog begins to show signs of distraction by glancing around, yawning, or becoming hyperactive, then it is time to stop for a while. Puppies have a lower endurance than adult dogs and will become bored or distracted more quickly.
“Sit” and “stay” are essential commands for teaching your dog boundaries—or, in other words, claiming your space and defining their territory. If you don’t want your dog to go into a certain room, have her sit and stay outside the doorway as you go into the room, and correct her if she tries to enter the room, using your body language to make her step back. Be consistent. If you don’t want the dog ever to enter that room, then you can never let her enter. If she can enter sometimes, then it can only be upon your invitation.
Whenever leaving the house, you must be the first one to walk out the door as well as the first one to walk in the door upon returning. Again, use “sit” and “stay” to get your dog to wait quietly while you go first, then invite her to follow. This will help teach your dog that you own the space, and reinforce the idea that you make the rules. It also teaches your dog to wait for you before receiving a desired outcome, emphasizing the source of that outcome—her Pack Leader.
Remember, most dogs are not natural-born leaders, and they do not want to be. However, if they are not given any direction, then they will try to do whatever they can to restore balance to the pack. Unfortunately, a dog in such a state frequently acts out of frustration and anxiety, and so will act out with unwanted and frequently destructive or aggressive behaviors. Most dogs do not know what they are supposed to be doing. They need to be told. By providing strong leadership through creating Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations, you give your dog the gift of direction. She will thank you for it by being calm and submissive, and looking to you as the leader of the pack.
PACK LEADER TECHNIQUE #4:
Master the Walk.
The single most important activity you can take part in with your dog is the walk. It provides exercise and mental stimulation for your dog and affirms your position as the Pack Leader. In addition to maintaining calm, assertive energy, you should always use a short leash, with the collar located at the top of your dog’s neck. This allows you to give corrections with a quick tug to the side, which will redirect your dog’s attention.
On the walk, your dog should always be next to or behind you. If your dog is in front of you, then she is being the Pack Leader, not you. There are several ways to train your dog to stay in the proper position. One is not to allow your dog to move forward if she gets in front of you. Give a correction and stop, or change direction, and continue to do so until your dog walks behind you. You can also use a walking stick or cane, and hold it in front of your dog to keep her in place.
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| The walk is an important daily ritual for Junior and me. |
Mornings are an ideal time for the walk, because your dog will have woken up with full energy, but it is essential that you allow enough time for the walk—at least 30 minutes to an hour—to properly drain your dog’s energy. This time may vary, depending upon your dog’s age and needs. Senior dogs may be tired out after 15 minutes, while young and energetic dogs may take 90 minutes or more. If your dog has any medical conditions, consult your veterinarian to determine safe limits.
Remember also that the walk is not about your dog sniffing around or relieving herself. To maintain control, keep moving forward for at least the first 15 minutes, and then reward your dog by allowing her to explore or go to the bathroom. Keep this reward time shorter than the walk time, however, and continue the pattern for the duration of the walk.
Don’t forget to continue your leadership when you return home. Enter the house first, then invite your dog to follow, and make her wait as you remove and put away her leash. This is an ideal time for feeding, because your dog has just worked for a meal.
Taking the time to walk your dog is the single best method to give her exercise and help her maintain balance. It is also the best method for asserting your pack leadership in a positive way. You should go on the walk at least twice a day, allowing enough time each walk to drain your dog’s energy and to maintain her calm, submissive state.
With the walk, you can practice all of my methods for maintaining a balanced dog at the same time. It provides exercise and discipline, with opportunities for some affection. It helps you to establish Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations, and can put you and your dog in touch with nature. Finally, it’s a great opportunity for you to learn to live in the moment and adjust your own energy. When you begin to put it all together, you will find that the walk is the most rewarding and productive time in your relationship with your dog, and you will both be better for it.
PACK LEADER TECHNIQUE #5:
Read Your Dog’s Body Language.
Energy is the unspoken language of communication, and one of the primary ways dogs use energy to communicate is through their body language. Dogs instinctively understand each other’s body language. At the same time, they interpret our body language in their way. If we do not take the time to understand how dogs use body language, then we risk miscommunication.
To start, think of two good (human) friends meeting after a long separation. As soon as they see each other, they may both perk up—standing taller, showing their teeth in broad smiles, walking a little bit faster. They may raise their arms and wave enthusiastically. As they approach, they may trot or even run, and they will come to each other head-on, probably greeting in a tight hug, or at the very least with a vigorous handshake.
Remember—humans perceive the world by sight and touch first, while sight is secondary to dogs and touch comes last (see Cesar’s Natural Dog Laws). So, for humans, this kind of face-to-face, direct contact upon greeting is quite normal. In the human world, it would be considered very rude to not look at people when meeting them, and making eye contact is seen as showing interest or attention, and rarely as a threat. Even when human strangers meet, they begin by facing each other, making eye contact, and vocalizing—speaking in greeting.
If two strange dogs met this way, it would probably lead to a fight. Everything in their body language in this encounter—approaching face-to-face, making eye contact, vocalizing at each other—indicates aggression. Even two familiar dogs can resort to instinct and snap if either perceives the other as approaching aggressively.
HOW DOGS GREET EACH OTHER
So the next time you’re at the dog park, take a close look at how two dogs approach each other when they meet. If the meeting is friendly, they will use their primary sense—smell—to “say” hello. They will approach each other indirectly and sniff toward the side or rear until they are sure of each other’s energy. Observe their general posture and energy, and how they hold their heads, ears, and tails. Dogs express their body language primarily through these body parts, and generally, the height of each corresponds to their level of assertiveness, aggression, or dominance.
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| Dogs get to know each other through their strongest sense: smell. |
Of course, you need to be aware of the physical specifics of your dog. In some breeds, the ears almost always stand up straight; in others, they are always floppy. If you pay careful attention, though, you’ll be able to tell when your dog’s ears are tensed and when they’re relaxed. Tension is the same as the ears being held high, and relaxation is the same as them being held low.
It’s similar with tails. Some breeds always carry their tail curled over their back, and other breeds are tailless or are (unnecessarily and cruelly) cropped soon after birth. In either case it’s hard to tell if the tail is in a high, middle, or low position, unless you practice being able to read its subtle movements.
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| A calm, submissive dog is often seen sitting or lying down. |
Now, let’s look at some examples of how head, ears, and tail project a dog’s body language.
CALM, ASSERTIVE
When a dog is calm and assertive, her head, ears, and tail will be held up, but there will be a lack of tension in the body. If she wags her tail, it will be slow to moderate in speed, and rhythmic. A dog in this state will be deliberate in her movements, either remaining still without pacing, or moving forward with purpose. Remember, though, because very few dogs are born to lead, you will meet very few dogs in this energy state.
CALM, SUBMISSIVE
When a dog is calm and submissive, her ears will lie back against her head and the tail will droop to the middle position. Her body will appear relaxed. A calm, submissive dog will also frequently sit or lie down, with the most submissive dog placing her chin on her paws or the floor. A submissive dog may begin wagging her tail when you make eye contact.
AGGRESSIVE
An aggressive dog shows all the signs of a calm, assertive dog, except that her body will be very tense and tight, almost as if she were leaning forward against a physical restraint. An aggressive dog will also maintain eye contact.
Some aggressive dogs show the more obvious signs of growling, baring their teeth, or barking, but do not let the absence of these things lead you to believe that the dog won’t snap or bite. If the body language is tight and tense, leave the dog alone. If the tail is wagging, don’t assume this means the dog is friendly. Aggressive dogs will often raise their tail very high and wag it very fast.
FEAR AND ANXIETY
A fearful dog, if he doesn’t run away, will try to become smaller. He does this by lowering his head and ears, slouching his body, and bending his legs. A fearful dog will usually hold his tail at the lowest position, often between the back legs (that’s where the expression “running away with his tail between his legs” comes from). As with an aggressive dog, the tail may also wag rapidly, but while in this lowered position.
In some breeds, a fearful dog may raise his hackles, a wide ridge of fur down the center of the back that stands on end. This was originally intended to make the dog look bigger and scare off predators. In some cases, a fearful dog may squint, to protect his eyes. This action may even extend to the upper lip curling to expose the teeth. However, as with an aggressive dog’s fast wagging tail, this sign does not mean what it might appear to. In the case of a fearful dog, the teeth baring is a sign of submission and the result of the dog’s entire face scrunching up.
“LEAVE ME ALONE”
Regardless of their current energy or mood, some dogs just don’t want to be approached by a human at times, and they will let you know. Most frequently, a dog will just turn around and walk away from you. If a dog does this, do not follow after it. Remember: Followers come to their leader. If you follow the dog, then you are not being the Pack Leader. You are also not respecting its wishes.
Other ways a dog will let you know she is not interested is in avoiding eye contact, by turning her head to the side. She may also raise her tail but be inconsistent with the position of her head and ears, due to uncertainty.
A dog that does not want to be approached may also remain very still and stiff, as if by not moving she will become invisible to you. At the most extreme levels of warning, a dog may smack her lips or growl to send the message, “Leave me alone.”
By learning to read dogs’ body language, you will improve your ability to communicate with them by understanding what they are telling you, as well as being better able to use your calm, assertive energy to redirect their instincts and get the behavior you want.
A Complete Set of Tools
All of these techniques—plus the laws and principles from earlier chapters—are at the heart of my work with dogs. Establish this framework and stick to it. Both you and your dog will benefit from a consistent routine and approach. You’ll be fulfilling your role as the Pack Leader, and your dog will embrace a calm, submissive state that comes along with that.
Cesar Millan
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