Nine Simple Principles for a Balanced Dog

Puppies first experience calm, assertive energy with their mothers.

Ahappier life with your dog becomes easy to achieve once you see your dog as a dog and honor his unique canine perspective. Now you’re truly able to appreciate the differences in the way humans and dogs perceive and interact with the world. And armed with the knowledge, you can move into the proper position as Pack Leader.

When I combined my understanding of a dog’s brain with acceptance of the Natural Dog Laws, a powerful set of Core Principles emerged. These key lessons are my secret weapon in creating balance for any Pack Leader—from those who’ve had dogs for years to those who are just starting out. Regardless of their experience, humans must see that a balanced dog lives as she would in nature—knowing her place within the pack, knowing what is expected of her, and exhibiting calm, submissive energy. She follows her Pack Leader and doesn’t misbehave. To get there, humans must observe and practice these nine Core Principles. These instinctual tools lie at the center of creating a balanced life for you, your family, and your dog.

When you achieve the goal of bringing your dog into balance, you will experience an entirely different relationship. You will be able to communicate instinctually and understand each other’s needs. You and your dog will be in tune with each other in a much deeper, more rewarding way, and you will learn the benefits of bringing calm, assertive energy into all aspects of your life.

CORE PRINCIPLE #1:

Be Aware of Your Energy.

In Cesar’s Natural Dog Laws, we learned that energy is everything. It’s the way in which humans and animals present themselves to the world, and it is exhibited through body language, facial expression, and eye contact (or lack thereof). In humans, it is a secondary form of communication, after language, but in dogs, it is the primary form of communication. One dog can assert dominance over another by simply moving in with calm, assertive energy and claiming the space. Dogs do not say “excuse me,” “please,” or “thank you” in words. If they maintain calm, assertive energy, they do not need to.

Humans do have words, though, and we rely on them, whether we are communicating in conversation or in writing. Because of our intellectual capacity for speech, it is very easy for us to lose touch with our own energy, and to have no idea what we are projecting to the world. However, despite our dependence on language, we do pick up on each other’s energy, whether or not we know it, and this does affect our message. Have you ever heard someone give a speech in a flat, unenthusiastic monotone? No matter how stirring and well written the words, such a speaker would quickly bore his audience to death. Conversely, someone who presents a confident, enthusiastic energy can easily persuade a group of people to go along with the stupidest idea ever conceived. Why? Because, again, their energy exerts an influence on the listeners, whether or not they are aware of it.

Quite often, when I’m working with clients, they have no idea that they’re projecting nervous or weak energy until I point it out to them. They are not in tune with their own energy at all, and so have no idea why their dog is reacting to them in the way he does. But, because dogs communicate primarily with energy, they can read a human in a second. I’m sure you’ve noticed that some people naturally draw dogs to themselves, and others cause dogs to flee on sight. Dogs will always be attracted to calm, assertive energy. Likewise, they will always try to avoid weak, nervous, or unbalanced energy.

To be successful as the Pack Leader—and as a person in general—you need to be mindful of your energy and learn to adjust it when you are not in a calm, assertive mode. Take a moment right now and pay attention to how you’re feeling emotionally, then notice how you’re holding your body. Usually, your body language will reflect your emotional state whether or not you’re aware of it. If you’re feeling nervous or upset at this moment, then your body is probably tense. If you’re feeling insecure, then you are probably hunched over or slouching.

Body language can influence your emotional state, and you can go a long way toward developing calm, assertive energy by being aware of your posture. Stand straight, with your head up, shoulders back, and chest out. Keep both feet flat on the ground. Try to avoid crossing your arms or shoving your hands in your pockets. Breathe deeply and exhale slowly. Stand like this for a few minutes, focusing on your breathing while trying to clear your mind of random thoughts. If it is safe to do so, close your eyes and concentrate on what you can smell and hear. You should find yourself calming down naturally. Remember the feeling and the body language, and then practice being able to move into this mode of being upon demand.

In nature, when a dog in a pack shows excited or unbalanced energy, the entire pack takes it as a warning of impending danger. It is remarkable how quickly a sleeping pack of dogs will fire up and go on high alert when one dog barks, and just as remarkable how quickly they settle down when the Pack Leader determines that there is no threat and goes back into a calm, assertive state. When dealing with your dog, you can see the importance, then, of not going into an unstable energy state. To do so is to send the message that something is wrong. You may not even be aware of the messages you are sending to your dog. This is why it is so important to become aware of your own energy and then take control of it. Until you can control yourself, you cannot control your dog.

CORE PRINCIPLE #2:

Live in the Moment.

Humans are probably unique among animals in their ability to daydream and fantasize, and we do it constantly. While reading this book, you may have remembered what you had for breakfast, or reminded yourself to buy lightbulbs next time you’re out. If you haven’t recently, then you probably just did, or you are right now—and if you’re not careful, you’re going to have to reread the rest of this paragraph because you became lost in your own thoughts. I’ll wait for you to go back and catch up.

I’m not sure whether there is any evolutionary advantage to the human tendency to live in the past, present, and future simultaneously, but I’m pretty sure we do it because of our highly developed language skills. We may relive our best moments, or dream about an ideal vacation, or rehearse the speech we’re going to give to our boss in hopes of a raise.

This is not to suggest that animals do not have a connection to the past or future. A dog that once ate onions and became very sick may forever after flee at the mere smell of an onion. A squirrel hoarding nuts in its nest is aware that they are to be eaten at a later time, but he is not consciously thinking, “This will be dinner next Tuesday evening.”

In both cases, past and future are minor influences on what’s happening right now. After the bad experience of an onion, the dog does not go through the mental steps of “I smell onion. Oh, I remember the time I ate that onion and felt really bad. I better run away now.” The thought process is instinctual and instant. The experience of the onion left enough of an impression that the stimulus induces flight with no logical process behind it. Similarly, the dog does not spend her time thinking, “I really hope I don’t come across any onions today.” The dog doesn’t have any thoughts of an onion until it again becomes a present reality in the here and now.

As humans, we forget that dogs live in the moment, and this can be an impediment to rehabilitation and training. Dogs that have lost a limb, hearing, or sight do not lament the abilities that are gone. They deal with the abilities they still have, and they don’t waste time feeling sorry for themselves. With our human obsession with the past, we are the ones who relive a dog’s former traumas and then overload them with sympathy and affection that, in the dog’s mind, is unearned.

Dogs do not hold grudges or brood about the past. Even in the case of two dogs that do not get along and fight when in sight of each other, some remembered incident of the past does not set off another fight. Rather, the sight of the other dog triggers the instinctual recall, but even then, the dogs may not fight until one of them interprets the other as doing something that is aggressive. Once a fight is over, they have no hard feelings, and neither plans how to kill the other in his sleep. Contrast that to human grudges, where an insult (real or imagined) can lead to years of enmity and bad feelings.

This natural living in the moment is what makes it possible to rehabilitate dogs. Because they do not cling to the past or worry about the future, they are open-minded and constantly learning in the present. They do not resent being corrected or disciplined because, once it’s over, it’s over. They associate it with the moment it happened, and then they let go.

This is one of the most powerful lessons we can learn from dogs. Being obsessed with the past or future can lead to many negative emotions: resentment, regret, anxiety, fear, or envy. Letting go of what is over and done, and of what we cannot control, is the path to our own fulfillment in the here and now. It is also one more way of being that will help you to have a balanced relationship with your dog.

CORE PRINCIPLE #3:

Dogs Don’t Lie.

During the filming of the Dog Whisperer, I worked with so many families on rehabilitating more than 400 of their dogs. Before I met any of these people, I asked my production crew not to tell me what the problem or situation was. Having a clean slate when I first encountered the dog and talked with the family was essential for figuring out the root of the problem in the household. In almost every instance, the people typically told me the “story” about what was going on, but the dogs told me the “truth.” A dog’s energy is nothing but honest. By just observing the dog, I can get a good sense of what the situation really is.

We humans have a great ability to tell stories, and so we tell them to ourselves. Please don’t misunderstand me. I don’t think any of these people were being willfully dishonest about their feelings or emotions, or what they perceived the problem to be. They weren’t doing it to be malicious, but rather to protect themselves. When humans don’t accept the truth about what’s going on inside them, it becomes more difficult to help their dogs. The most difficult cases I encounter are the ones where the human is in denial and attributing a complex explanation to his dog’s misbehavior. The only cases I was not able to solve were those in which the humans never overcame their denial.

I was explaining the difference between “truth” and “story” to a group of students who were attending the Training Cesar’s Way class in fundamentals at the Dog Psychology Center. To illustrate my point, I decided to use a real-life situation. There was a woman in the class we’ll call “Ann.” She has a therapy dog named “Monarch,” one of the most gentle and sensitive dogs you’ll ever meet. These are the very qualities that make him perfect for the job.

Ann said, “Monarch and I have a communication problem. He doesn’t always do what I tell him to do, and he is very timid when I give him direction.” This was Ann’s human story about what was happening. But her body language and her energy told a different one.

It was obvious to the other students that Ann was overly concerned about how Monarch was reacting to her. Her eyes darted down at Monarch to see his every reaction. She didn’t move deliberately and with confidence. She held on to the leash with very little slack so Monarch had to stay close by her side. She was overcompensating for Monarch’s perceived indifference to her commands.

The truth behind the situation was that Ann didn’t trust Monarch, and Monarch knew it. Now, think for a moment, would you follow a person or leader you knew didn’t trust you? Ann was too timid, too fearful, and she was projecting that energy to her dog. Because Monarch is a trained therapy dog, he is extra sensitive to humans, and especially sensitive to Ann’s behavior.

When I took Monarch’s leash, I held it very lightly with two fingers. Confidently and calmly, I walked Monarch through nonverbal commands that I gave with body movements. He followed without hesitation. Then I took off the leash entirely, and Monarch suddenly came to life. What was once a timid and tentative therapy dog was now a happy but calm, submissive creature. He performed every command with pleasure. The class applauded, and Monarch sat on his hind legs and then rolled over on his back—the ultimate sign of submission and confidence. Ann needed to get beyond her story and work with the truth—only then was she really able to help her dog.

You can practice dissecting the difference between story and truth with a friend or spouse. Write down what you think is the cause of a situation or upset within your household. Next, engage in an honest discussion about the causes of the upset. Write them down for everyone to see and examine. Peel away the causes like an onion until you get to the cold, hard truth about what’s really going on and what’s really causing the upset. Although this exercise can be intimidating, the end result will be freedom and release. In many of the Dog Whisperer cases in which people did overcome their denial, their stories usually ended with human tears, sighs of relief, and a rehabilitated dog.

CORE PRINCIPLE #4:

Work With Mother Nature, Not Against Her.

I discussed this earlier in Cesar’s Natural Dog Laws, but it’s always worth repeating. We need to consider a dog in this order: animal, species, breed, and then name. The first two are a part of what a dog is naturally, while humans created the last two. Animals live in and deal with nature every day. To be successful and survive, all animals—from rats to eagles—need to follow the laws of nature. We humans have forgotten nature’s laws because we have protected ourselves from the consequences of breaking them, but that doesn’t mean we are exempt.

If you live in a modern, First or Second World country, it can be very easy to lose touch with nature. Your home protects you from the elements. You probably travel from home to your job in a car or on some form of public transportation. Your next meal is as close as the refrigerator, the grocery store, or the restaurant down the street. The only times you probably really notice nature are when the weather is unpleasant, or when you’re picking up after your dog on the walk.

None of this is natural for a dog, and yet we have transplanted these wild pack animals into our homes. In nature, a dog’s life is very simple. Because dogs’ realities are formed primarily by the senses, they live moment by moment, and everything is focused on what they need to survive—shelter, food, water, and, in season, mating. They roam their territory with their pack in search of fulfilling those needs. Dogs do not worry about the future or dwell on the past. They exist in the moment, which can be something very difficult for humans to understand, especially with the stresses of modern life. Remember, we form our reality through beliefs, knowledge, and memory.

If you really want to learn what it’s like to live in the moment, try being homeless for a few months. I was when I first came to the United States, and it’s interesting how quickly you stop living in the past or dreaming of the future when your biggest concerns are where your next meal will come from and where you will sleep that night. When I describe it that way, it sounds like every dog would appreciate living in a home with a constant supply of food, but dogs cannot rationalize their instincts like humans can. You can take a dog out of nature, but you cannot take nature out of a dog.

As a species, dogs are a specific kind of animal that deals with nature in particular ways, having inherited their pack nature from wolves. On the species level, dogs are different than deer, tigers, llamas—and humans. Their needs revolve around the pack’s needs, and the pack will follow only a calm, balanced leader. Any members of the pack that become unstable are quickly dealt with, corrected if possible, and killed or banished if not.

This is why stable leadership is so important to a dog, in addition to physical needs being met. The need for leadership is programmed in a dog’s genes, and exists at a primal, instinctual level. When species or animals are cut off from nature by being domesticated, it is especially important that their needs, physical and psychological, are being fulfilled. If you don’t feed a dog, it will starve to death. If you don’t fulfill a dog’s need for leadership and direction, it will experience the canine equivalent of human neurosis, and possibly even insanity.

Dogs need to maintain their connection with nature, and we can help them do that by remaining aware of the Natural Dog Laws from Cesar’s Natural Dog Laws. The wonderful part of this, though, is that we can also connect, through our dogs, to the instinctual part of ourselves with which we have lost touch. Find some place away from the modern world, even if it’s just a large city park, and then go for a walk with your pack and experience the world as your dog does, forming his reality through his senses. Reconnecting with Mother Nature will bring balance to your pack, as you and your dog learn from each other.

CORE PRINCIPLE #5:

Honor Your Dog’s Instincts.

I’ve written about dogs as animal and dogs as species, the two natural aspects of their being. But breed, one of the two human-created aspects, has a powerful part to play in shaping your dog’s instincts. Breeds came about through selective mating, and the diversity of dog breeds is astounding, ranging from tiny toy dogs like Yorkies and Chihuahuas on one end all the way up to giant breeds like Great Danes and Saint Bernards. It’s sometimes hard to believe that such diverse animals are even from the same species. Breeds were created for different reasons—some dogs were bred as companions, some as herders, and some as protectors. But each was bred to draw out and focus on desired instincts to create dogs that excelled at particular tasks.

Now, although the animal and species aspects of dogs are common to all of them, breed can sometimes affect behavior, and it is also sometimes necessary to consider breed when working with a dog, whether just for training, by giving them an appropriate job, or in rehabilitation. However, keep in mind that the breed is “only the suit.” The more purebred a dog is, the stronger the dog will show breed characteristics and instincts. But by fulfilling her animal and species needs through the walk and using my fulfillment formula, you will minimize breed-related misbehaviors.

This doesn’t mean you need to ignore breed entirely. In fact, it can be a nice experience for dogs and humans to engage in breed-appropriate activities. In cases of misbehavior caused by breed-related instincts, it is essential.

Seven basic groups of dogs—sporting, hound, working, herding, terrier, toy, and nonsporting—have been bred over the centuries for various functions. You can fulfill each of their specific needs in slightly different ways.

Dogs in the sporting group were bred to assist with hunting, by either pointing at or flushing out prey, or retrieving kills, particularly waterfowl. Good activities for this group include games that simulate finding or retrieving prey. For pointers, you can introduce them to an object with a familiar scent, and then hide it. Reward them when they “point,” although don’t let them actually retrieve the object, because this can stimulate their prey drive. For spaniels, let them locate the object. For retrievers, allow them to bring it to you.

Games that involve pointing will appeal to this dog’s natural sporting instincts.

Dogs in the hound group were also bred for hunting, except that unlike those in the sporting group, hounds actually do the hunting and pursuing, and their prey are usually mammals rather than birds. Hounds are divided into two groups: scent hounds and sight hounds. You can fulfill the needs of the former with the “runaway” game. This involves presenting your dog with items of clothing with familiar scents from the human pack on them, and then hiding them along a regular route of your walk. Reward your dog for every item she finds.

Sight hounds, which are accustomed to hunting from a farther distance, are natural runners, so they are ideal candidates for towing you on in-line skates or running with you on your bike. Keep in mind, though, that sight hounds are sprinters, not long-distance runners, so get used to a short, fast dash followed by a more regular-paced walk.

Dogs in the working group were bred when humans moved from a hunting-and-gathering lifestyle into villages, and their name is a pretty good description of their purpose. These dogs were used for their size and strength—for guarding, pulling, and rescuing. Naturally, these dogs excel at pulling, and letting them tow a cart on the walk is an ideal use of this instinct. Remember, working dogs do not look at pulling as a chore. It is a physical and psychological challenge that makes them feel useful and valued.

The herding group, with its instinct to control the movements of other animals, is naturally excellent at herding. However, if you don’t have a herd of sheep or cattle handy, don’t worry. These breeds are also excellent at agility training and, oddly enough, are world-champion flying disc (or Frisbee) dogs.

Dogs in the terrier group were bred to chase down small prey, frequently following rodents into their burrows to kill them. Although smaller, they were bred down from working and herding dogs, so many of the same activities that fulfill those breeds will work for terriers, particularly those with high energy.

The toy group dogs may have originally been bred to hunt very small animals, but evidence indicates that they quickly became just companion animals; the image of a rich woman with a teacup terrier in her purse is nothing new, and this group stemmed from the human tendency to fall in love with animals that are cute and that resemble juvenile forms. With their tiny faces and large eyes, toy dogs fit this description perfectly. Although members of the toy group have been bred from various other groups, they were not bred for any specific tasks. That is why it is even more important with toy dogs that you treat them as animals and dogs first. This group, more than any other, contains the dogs that should be allowed to be dogs. You’re not doing your toy dog any favors by carrying her everywhere or letting her go off leash. Let your dog out of the bag and put a leash on her, so she can be a dog and walk around on her own feet.

Finally, the nonsporting group is somewhat of a catchall description that could have also been called “none of the above.” This group includes the poodle, bulldog, Boston terrier, bichon frise, French bulldog, Lhasa apso, shar-pei, chow chow, Shiba Inu, and Dalmatian. Depending on the specific breed, you can find an appropriate activity among the preceding groups.

Although dog breeds are diverse and were created to carry out various tasks, remember that all dogs require some form of exercise, preferably via the walk. The suggestions here are designed for further bonding opportunities with your dog, as well as suggested routes for rehabilitation if you are still having issues, particularly those influenced by your dog’s natural instincts.

CORE PRINCIPLE #6:

“Nose, Eyes, Ears”—in That Order.

As we have learned, dogs are instinctual, and their reality is formed by their senses; a dog’s strongest sense is her sense of smell, followed by sight, then hearing, and this follows the order in which these senses develop in a puppy. Dogs learn the most about the world through their nose. We have also learned that humans approach the world through sight first and smell last, which makes it very easy for us to forget this principle. However, this is one of the most important things to remember in all of your dealings with any dogs, whether or not they are in your own pack.

Humans and dogs have shared space for so long—10,000 or possibly 20,000 years—that it is almost second nature for humans to greet new dogs the same way they do other people. I’m sure most of you have done it. You visit a friend’s house and meet his new dog for the first time, and you greet the dog with a big hello and a pat on the head the second you’re in the door. Maybe you even lean over to let her lick your face. After all, it would be rude to just ignore the dog, wouldn’t it?

Actually, no. If you ignore a new dog at first, you’re not being rude. Instead, you’re being considerate of her needs. After all, you’re a new person, and that can be intimidating to a dog. When you first enter her territory, she doesn’t know whether you’re a friend or an enemy. A well-balanced dog will look to her Pack Leader for clues and act accordingly. At the same time, she will try to figure you out through her senses—through Nose, Eyes, Ears, in that order.

The first thing she is likely to do is sniff the feet of a new human she encounters. By doing this, the dog is learning your scent and sensing your energy. While the dog is checking you out, practicing “No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact” will make sure the meeting goes smoothly. This practice respects the way the dog perceives the world, as well as respects her space, and it gives her time to explore you first (see Cesar’s Natural Dog Laws).

It is very important to remember and use this Core Principle, as it affects almost every interaction you will have with your dog—from the first time you meet to your daily comings and goings at home. But take a moment to observe your dog on the walk—see what she responds to. How does an interesting smell affect her body and energy? What kinds of sights and sounds engage her? You will learn so much about your dog just through this careful observation—and the more you know about your dog and how she sees the world, the better Pack Leader you can be for her.

CORE PRINCIPLE #7:

Accept Your Dog’s Natural Pack Position.

In nature, there are three positions in the dog pack—in the front, in the middle, and in the back—and each dog will gravitate to its natural position. The weaker dogs will wind up at the rear, and the more dominant dogs in the middle. The pack leaders are always in front.

Each position has its own function within the pack. Dogs in the three positions work together to find food and water, and ensure the pack’s survival by defending the pack against danger. The dogs in front (including the leader) provide direction and protection to the pack. They determine where the entire pack will go, and they fend off any dangers from the front. The dogs in the rear are primarily concerned with alerting to danger approaching from behind, and their function is to warn the rest of the pack. The dogs in the middle are mediators, communicating between the rear and the front.

Every function is important. Without the dogs in the front, the dogs at the rear don’t know where they’re going. Without the dogs in the back, the dogs up front are not aware of any problems coming up from behind. And without the dogs in the middle to relay messages, the front and back of the pack are isolated from each other.

The Pack Leader should be in front, with the dogs alongside or behind

The canine pack leader may be able to smell that fresh water and available prey are on the other side of a dark and scary forest, and move onward toward it. Meanwhile, the dogs at the rear know only that they are all entering a dark and scary forest. Their normal reaction would be to alert to danger and start barking. The dogs in the middle sense the calm energy from the front of the pack, and they in turn calm the frightened dogs at the rear through their own calm energy. However, if the pack is being stalked from the rear by a large threat, the dogs in the rear will remain agitated and continue to alert to danger. The dogs in the middle, in turn, will pick up on this energy and communicate it to the front. The pack leader will turn the pack around to provide protection against this new threat.

By communicating through energy and having an established hierarchy, the entire pack functions as one unit. Each dog knows his place within that hierarchy, and there is no jumping around. A dog that naturally gravitates to the rear of the pack will not try to move to the middle or front, and a dog in front will not give up her position without being forced to by another dog; this generally will not happen unless that lead dog becomes unstable.

As responsible dog lovers, it is up to us to learn where our dog would normally position herself in the pack. By observing her energy and body language, you can see where your dog might most likely fit in. It is also up to us to respect our dog’s own position in the pack and not try to change it—because we can’t. It would violate the Natural Dog Law: Dogs are social, pack animals with a leader and followers. If you try to put a dog from the rear or middle in a leadership position (or force him to lead because no one else is doing it), the dog will become unbalanced.

The vast majority of dogs are not born to be a pack leader, and these dogs, if raised properly by humans, will never try to assume that leadership position. When you do not understand and respect your dog’s position in the pack—either by trying to change it actively, or forcing the dog to change by not providing leadership—then you are not working with Mother Nature, and the outcome will not be pleasant for you or your dog.

CORE PRINCIPLE #8:

You Create the Calm, Submissive State.

The point of the previous seven rules is to bring your dog to a place of calm, submissive energy. I’ll show you how to do that in more depth in Practical Techniques for Every Pack Leader. Everything begins with you, though, and if there is one thing that is most important in this process, it is your energy, your state of mind, and your approach. You are the source of your dog’s calm, submissive state, and your dog is looking to you for guidance. If your energy is anxious, nervous, overexcited, angry, frustrated, or some other negative, then your dog will reflect back that energy. If you are inconsistent in applying your rules, then your dog will begin to test you to see what she can get away with. But if you are calm and assertive in your energy and consistent in teaching and enforcing your rules, you will earn your dog’s trust, and she will follow you and look to you for guidance.

If you are having trouble mastering calm, assertive energy yourself, you may find it helpful to create an intention in your head, and then imagine it happening. For example, if your dog pulls on the walk, see yourself walking with your dog next to or just behind you and imagine what that feels like. What is your state of mind without having to constantly pull your dog back? How much more enjoyable for both of you is the walk this way?

You can also connect with your dog and help you both achieve a calm state by meditating together. To do so, sit or lie down with your dog, then place one hand on her chest and the other on her back, near her hindquarters. Pay attention to your dog’s breathing, and then begin to mimic it. Breathe together for as long as you’re comfortable. After a few days, your dog should start mimicking your breathing and the two of you should find a connection in those moments. Meditation in general is also calming for both of you.

Most of all, don’t be intimidated. This may seem like a lot of information to take in, but start simply, and build on each successful moment. The more often you succeed, the more confident you will be in continued success and the less discouraged you will be by a setback. Remember, though: You are not the only one who wants to succeed at reaching a calm, assertive state and achieving balance with your dog. Your dog wants you to succeed, too.

Embrace being a Pack Leader, and your dog will follow.

CORE PRINCIPLE #9:

You Need to Be the Pack Leader.

Everything comes back to these four words: “Be the Pack Leader.” A great majority of the issues I see people having with their dogs stem from a lack of strong pack leadership from the humans involved. As we have learned, dogs are social pack animals with a leader and followers. In the wild, most dogs are followers, but if they don’t have a leader to follow, then a dog will attempt to take control of the situation. In a human household, this can cause the dog to show all kinds of unwanted behaviors, including anxiety, destructiveness, excessive barking, and aggression. Not having a strong leader leaves a dog in an unbalanced mental state, and she will then do what she thinks she has to in order to fulfill her needs.

For comparison, imagine this scenario: You are abruptly taken from your home and brought to the Oval Office. A Secret Service agent tells you, “You’re the President now. Good luck,” and then leaves, offering no further instructions. Only a rare person wouldn’t make terrible mistakes in a day or two. A dog without strong leadership is stuck in the same situation.

That strong leadership is often not there because people, especially in the United States, have a tendency to love and pamper their dogs, and they think of any kind of discipline or correction as being “mean.” Instead of providing direction and protection, which is the Pack Leader’s job, many people try to reason with their dogs, like they would with a five-year-old child.

Puppies first experience calm, assertive energy with their mothers.

The only problem is that you cannot explain things to a dog in intellectual terms because dogs are instinctual beings. Your dog will just meet you with a puzzled look when you say, “Bella, it makes Mommy really upset when you chew on her nice things, so please don’t do it anymore.” The dog has no idea what Mommy is talking about. A canine mother would be silent and direct, using her energy, eye contact, and touch to get the message—“Stop”—across to her errant puppy.

The Pack Leader also doesn’t communicate with emotional or nervous energy, but is always calm and assertive, using that energy to influence the behavior of the pack. Now, you may be wondering exactly how you project calm and assertive energy. One thing I frequently tell people is to imagine someone they look up to—a favorite teacher, a historical figure, a fictional hero—and then to carry themselves as if they are that person. This mental image will influence your body language, and project that calm, assertive energy. It’s hard to slouch when you’re imagining yourself as Cleopatra or King Arthur. If you think this idea sounds silly, look at a calm, confident dog sometime, and notice how he moves—proudly, with head and ears up, and always with intention.

It is also very important as the Pack Leader that you claim ownership of your territory, which you can do by asserting yourself in a calm, confident way. This makes it clear to your dog that you own the space in which she lives, and will help her to respect your authority. Along with claiming ownership, you must teach your dog to work for food and affection by taking her for a walk before you feed her. In addition to making your dog work physically, you should also make her work psychologically by having her wait until she is in a calm, submissive state before providing food or affection.

Most important, as a leader, you must know your pack and what their needs are, then help fulfill those needs by creating a structured, consistent environment with Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations. Dominance is not a dirty word. In fact, because most dogs do not want to be leaders, your dog will appreciate you all the more for taking control.

The Core Principles in this chapter cover a lot of different areas. There are principles that center squarely on your state of mind, your energy, and your intention. Others rely upon your recognition of intrinsic truths about your dog and how he experiences the world. Putting these ideas together lays a powerful foundation upon which we can build a framework for our dogs and our lives together. The Cesar’s Natural Dog Laws takes us through practical, simple, and powerful techniques that, again, I rely upon to create balance and happiness in my dogs.

Cesar Millan