Typically, misbehaviors in dogs manifest themselves in one of two ways: Either they appear suddenly, or they are bad habits. If your dog has always had behavior issues, first begin to address the problem by looking at yourself. How are you not fulfilling your dog’s needs, or failing to provide necessary pack leadership? We will be dealing with those questions—and solutions—in this chapter.
If your dog’s behavior changes abruptly, then your dog is trying to tell you something, and you will need to address the problem by looking at your dog. As you figure out the message your dog is trying to send, you will be able to figure out what is necessary to solve the problem. Has the problem happened more than once? Are any patterns emerging? Does the issue seem out of character for your dog?
For example, if your dog never does her business inside the house but you come home one day to a gift on the carpet, it may not be a cause for concern. Ask yourself whether you missed a regular walk that day or changed something in your dog’s diet recently. If the incident does not occur again without a clear cause like those mentioned, then you probably don’t have a problem. If it suddenly starts happening multiple times a week, then it’s time to get to work fixing it.
In these cases, first rule out any medical explanations. For example, a housebroken dog that suddenly starts regularly urinating in the house may have a bladder infection. Sudden aggression, growling, or shying away from touch may indicate that your dog is in physical pain. If your dog’s eating or drinking habits suddenly change—for example, she is eating less or drinking more—then go to the veterinarian first to get a checkup.
If your dog is in good health, then ask yourself, “Has anything in our lives changed recently?” Dogs are very sensitive to change. They can become insecure if they feel confused or threatened. Even something as simple as a change in your daily schedule—like leaving home 30 minutes earlier or later in the morning—can throw off your dog until he gets used to a new routine. The good news is that if you are fulfilling your dog’s needs otherwise, with Exercise, Discipline, and Affection (see Practical Techniques for Every Pack Leader), and by providing pack leadership, then she should adapt to any changes rather quickly.
For each misbehavior in this chapter, I describe the problem at hand, talk about its potential causes, and then offer solutions to help bring balance back to your dog.
One final note before we begin. If your dog’s behavior—whether habitual or sudden—is causing serious disruption in your pack, you may want to consider calling in a professional trainer or dog behaviorist. Their knowledge and skills will help you understand the problem and come up with a plan to address the behavior. And I must stress that if your dog is showing aggression without a physical cause, food aggression toward any human members of the pack, or has bitten or tried to bite anyone, then call in a professional immediately.
MISBEHAVIOR #1:
Overexcitement
We’ve all seen overexcited dogs. They’re the ones that start jumping or spinning when their people come home. They jump on guests and run all over the house. They pull ahead on the walk, puffing and panting, eager to get to the next thing to smell. They tear around the dog park like they’re greyhounds on a racetrack. These dogs are the very definition of “hyperactive.”
A dog exhibiting such excitement is not in control, which can be dangerous to both the dog and humans. A jumping dog can slip on the floor and injure his legs or back. His claws can scratch people. If the dog is big enough, he can knock furniture around or knock people down. As the Pack Leader, you should fill your dog with confidence and calm, submissive energy when you return home. Your dog may not look as happy, but trust me—a dog that sits quietly and looks at you when you come home is much, much happier than a dog that is bouncing off the walls.
OVEREXCITEMENT: THE CAUSES
This kind of misbehavior is caused by a combination of excess energy and misdirected affection. An overly excited dog is generally not getting enough exercise, of course. But I frequently find in these cases that not only have the dog’s people not done anything to curtail the unwanted behavior in the first place, but they have managed to do the opposite by unknowingly encouraging it.
It is a natural tendency of humans to ascribe our own emotions to dogs, and so our first thought upon seeing our dog jumping up and down upon our return home is that he is very happy to see us. And why wouldn’t we think that? Happy humans jump up and down when they’ve been picked on a game show or their team has scored the winning goal. Humans also jump up and down when they dance, and humans generally dance only when they’re happy.
So we come home and our dog greets us by jumping up and down or spinning, and our natural reaction is to be happy too, and to greet the dog with assurances that we missed her just as much. What we are really doing in such a case is giving affection and attention to an unstable dog, and the dog gets only one message: “I like it when you act this way!”
OVERCOMING OVEREXCITEMENT
The first step in dealing with the problem is to ignore your dog when he is exhibiting unwanted behavior. When you come home, if your dog starts jumping or spinning, practice my technique of “No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact” (see Cesar’s Natural Dog Laws). Do not acknowledge your dog while he is overexcited. Instead, go about your normal routine of coming home. Put down whatever you’re carrying, take care of whatever business you usually would, and wait until your dog relaxes (by wearing himself out) before saying hello and giving affection.
This method is also necessary if your dog jumps on guests, but you will need to train your visitors as well. Visiting dog lovers tend to have the habit of putting up with excited behavior and giving affection, probably out of fear of appearing rude. As the host, you can educate your guests by asking them to ignore your dog while she is excited. Assure them that neither you nor the dog will take it personally, but that they are helping you to train your dog.
Upon returning home, in general, is also a good opportunity to check your own energy. Your dog is your mirror. Do you tend to be easily excitable or generally boisterous? If you are constantly exhibiting overexcitement, then your dog will reflect this. Talking loudly, dashing around the place, getting upset at little things—all of these will tell your dog that this is how this pack behaves.
Of course, you should burn up your dog’s excess energy by taking him on a long, vigorous walk. This is a healthy way to focus all of that energy on moving forward with you, and then using it up. If your dog is hyperactive on the walk, giving him a job by putting a backpack on him will help to wear him out more quickly; the weight of the pack will also focus his attention on carrying it.
One other thing to try to calm an overexcited dog is to appeal to her strongest scent organ, her nose. Some scents, like lavender, are soothing to humans. Dogs are the same, except with much more powerful noses. Consult your veterinarian to find out what smells may work for your dog and which dispersal methods are the safest for her.
Although overexcitement may seem like a relatively harmless problem, in the long run, it is better to teach your dog how to greet you with calm, submissive energy, and it is healthier to allow your dog to use up that excess energy in a positive and focused manner. A jumping, spinning, running dog may appear happy, but that’s a human perception. A calm and balanced dog is far happier.
MISBEHAVIOR #2:
Aggression
Aggression in dogs is probably one of the most common issues I am asked to address. Aggression takes many forms. Some dogs are aggressive only toward other dogs or animals; some, only toward people; still others show aggression only around food or high-value treats and toys.
Aggression in dogs is a very noticeable and identifiable behavior, particularly for those on the receiving end. The body language of such dogs is tense and focused, and they often make noise: Aggressive dogs will growl, bark, snarl, bare their teeth, and frequently snap or bite at any person or animal that comes within range. Frequently while being walked, aggressive dogs are difficult to control, pulling at the lead, barking at every other dog or human that they see.
This issue can be one of the most difficult to resolve, particularly in the case of biters, or dogs that are in the “red zone”—that is, dogs that go into attack mode and cannot be brought out of it. In nature, when dogs show aggression, they show it only until they have won the “argument.” A red-zone dog, though, is out to kill, and will not stop until he has succeeded.
People with an aggressive dog in the household naturally feel constantly nervous, but this can only make the problem worse. Anxiety, nervousness, and uncertainty are all weak forms of energy, and these states of being just serve to remind the dog that there is no strong Pack Leader around. If any member of your household is feeling fearful because of your dog’s aggression, then it is time to call in a professional immediately. Dogs can sense fear in humans and other animals, and an aggressive dog will take advantage of this weak energy state. Also, if your dog is showing food aggression with any member of the human pack, call a professional.
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| Because they often pull and lunge, aggressive dogs can be difficult to control. |
AGGRESSION: THE CAUSES
Aggression is often caused by a combination of frustration and dominance. The dog may feel frustration because of a lack of exercise, and so is full of pent-up energy. The dog becomes dominant because of a lack of leadership from the humans around him. Combined frustration and dominance cause a dog to lash out and try to take control. Without Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations, a dog has no idea what he is supposed to do (see Practical Techniques for Every Pack Leader). This can be a very confusing and frightening thing for a dog, especially if the dog would not normally assume a leadership position in the pack—and, as I have said before, the large majority of dogs are not natural pack leaders. They are perfectly happy being followers.
The effect of an unrehabilitated aggressive dog on its people and household can be devastating. I have met families who have practically become hermits in their own homes, never allowing any visitors, or never letting their children’s friends come over to play. In multiple-pet households, everyone has to play the game of “keep the animals apart,” with the aggressive dog shunted from one place to another and kept behind closed doors. With the problem left untreated, someone is inevitably bitten, which escalates the fearfulness and frustration of the people and makes the dog exert further dominance. After a second bite, the humans in the household far too often feel they have only two choices: get the dog out or put the dog down. So for me, solving an aggression problem is one of my most important challenges, because it keeps dogs in homes and it keeps people safe.
OVERCOMING AGGRESSION
The root causes of most aggression are the same, and so are the solutions. To deal with a dog’s aggression, all humans in the household have to establish themselves as the Pack Leader, and the dog needs to be given consistent Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations. During the process, consider your dog in the same way you would a human in rehab—the dog has an issue to deal with, and until he has dealt with it, he does not get to have the same privileges or freedoms that a nonaggressive dog would. This is not punishment. This is structure, and it will simplify your dog’s life during the rehabilitation. In particular, be very careful about giving affection. You should do so only when your dog is in a calm, submissive state. Never show affection when your dog is exhibiting the unwanted behavior, particularly aggression—this just teaches your dog that she can use aggression to get affection.
Establish rules and boundaries. If your dog normally spends her time on the sofa, make it off-limits, for now, and make sure that the dog stays down. Don’t worry that your dog will feel insulted by this. Dogs don’t think that way. In fact, dealing with the new rule will probably be harder for the humans. When people move around the house, make sure that the dog is never the first one to go through a door into another room; the dog must wait and go after the humans. If your dog does try to lead you, turn around at the door and walk the other way. If you have enough rooms at home to do so, establish one as temporarily off-limits to the dog, with all the humans in the pack consistently not allowing the dog into that room.
Also during the rehabilitation, pick up and put away all of the toys, bones, and other dog playthings around the house, with the goal being to teach your dog that these all belong to you and can be played with only on your terms. Oftentimes, a dog will believe that he is powerful if he gathers a large collection of things, so having all these items lying around for an aggressive dog to hoard can make the issue worse.
Do not let your dog give you commands. Dogs will often try to get our attention by nudging us, putting their heads on our laps, or jumping up. When your dog does this, ignore her; do not even say, “No.” Just don’t acknowledge the behavior. Otherwise, your dog has just told you what to do, and you did it.
During this entire process, of course, the most important thing you can do is keep your dog well exercised, ideally with long walks. Remember, part of the cause of aggression is excess energy, and you need to drain that energy. If just walking doesn’t seem to be enough for your dog, have her wear a backpack to give her a job and help drain energy, or have her tow you on in-line skates or run alongside you while you ride a bicycle. (You should consult a trainer, however, to teach you and your dog how to do this safely.)
The other important aspect of the walk, particularly when it comes to aggression, is pack bonding and establishing leadership. In the wild, dog packs migrate together—in search of food and water, and to explore and establish their territory. The farther they travel, the more likely they are to find a lot of food and water, and the larger their territory becomes. When you exhibit calm, assertive energy and take the lead on the walk, you provide the pack leadership and direction that an aggressive dog needs. Through using a leash, you also have the ideal opportunity to correct unwanted behaviors just before they happen.
As pack animals, dogs are mainly concerned with the entire pack running smoothly, and most dogs would rather be followers than leaders. Aggression within the pack is unnatural, and more dominant members quickly put an aggressive dog in his place. Too often, when we bring dogs into our human packs, we forget to fulfill their needs by being the leaders, and instead indulge them as children, giving them too much unearned affection. With no strong leadership, dogs are thrust into a role they neither want nor can handle, so they lash out at everything because of their frustration. However, aggression is usually not an unsolvable issue, and your dog will thank you with her own loyalty and affection once you restore her proper place in the pack.
FROM CESAR’S CASE FILES
Teddy
I have dealt with many aggressive dogs, and Teddy, a nine-year-old yellow Lab mix, was a typical case. His caregivers, Steve and Lisa Garelick, adopted Teddy as a puppy. He naturally had high energy and was aggressive, but because the Garelicks did not provide strong pack leadership from the beginning, Teddy’s aggression continued unchecked, directed toward people and other animals.
They tolerated his aggression for nine years. However, with the birth of their daughter, Sara (who was two and a half at the time I visited), they became increasingly concerned. The last thing they wanted was for Teddy to bite Sara. Interestingly enough, though, Sara was the one person toward whom Teddy showed no aggression. This was because the Garelicks did the right thing before she was born: They prepared Teddy for a new arrival in the house, and then made it clear to the dog that this new human had a higher status. They managed to make their daughter Teddy’s Pack Leader without knowing it, and yet could not do the same thing for themselves.
The Garelicks did what many people do when their dog shows aggression—they avoided situations that could cause aggression, instead of dealing with the problem. They were afraid that they would not be able to control their dog in those situations. When I showed them that I could control Teddy’s aggression by redirecting him out of that state as it was happening, they realized that it was possible. Once I showed them they could do it themselves, their nervousness and anxiety lessened, their confidence increased, and they were on their way to being successful Pack Leaders.
MISBEHAVIOR #3:
Anxiety
In the animal world, there are two natural reactions to a threatening stimulus: fight or flight. We saw “fight” in aggression, but not all dogs react this way. It’s perfectly natural for a dog to fear something threatening to them, but unnatural anxiety occurs when dogs show extreme fear toward things that cannot hurt them. Fearful dogs may exhibit a range of behaviors, from running off and hiding at the first sudden stimulus to staying in place and quaking in terror. It isn’t uncommon for such dogs to suddenly exhibit submissive urination or defecation, so it can be an unpleasant situation for the humans as well. Such dogs can become skittish about everything, from falling objects to people moving to reflections in their water bowl.
Many dogs are fearful, and their first instinct is to run away and hide from anything new. At an extreme, the running away becomes entirely psychological. Ever hear the expression “paralyzed with fear”? This happens when animals become so frightened by something that they lose any ability to control their body and run away in self-preservation. The mind runs away first. In the wild, such fearful animals usually become some other animal’s lunch rather quickly.
Don’t assume that a fearful dog cannot be dangerous, though. Any animals that feel sufficiently threatened, even if seemingly paralyzed with fear, can still lash out and attack with everything they’ve got in a last-ditch effort to survive. If left uncorrected, a dog can become fear-aggressive, which can be a very bad match for those with the human tendency to feel sorry for and try to comfort frightened animals.
It can be difficult, if not impossible, for humans and fearful dogs to have a fulfilling relationship. Trust is at the center of resolving this issue. Everything may seem fine, but then the dog can be set off with one wrong move by a human. Establishing a bond of trust can be extremely hard in such cases. In addition, living in a constant state of anxiety can be unhealthy for the dog, leading to an elevated heart rate, rapid breathing, and a steady flow of adrenaline in the system. We would say that a human exhibiting the same symptoms is “stressed out,” and it’s no different for a dog. Constant, unrelieved anxiety can be physically dangerous, if not fatal.
ANXIETY: THE CAUSES
Extreme anxiety and fearfulness are usually related to low self-esteem, which, for dogs, means that they are uncertain of their status. This can happen for various reasons. Perhaps they were taken away from their mothers too early, and so did not learn to experience the world first through nose, then eyes, then ears. They also would have missed out on proper socialization through their mother’s actions of feeding, cleaning, and correcting. Dogs can also have low self-esteem if they experience abuse or isolation early in life. Because the problem is rooted so deeply and early in the dog’s life, cases of anxiety take a lot longer to resolve than other issues, like aggression. I usually see results with an aggressive dog in the first half hour. Cases of anxiety can take months.
OVERCOMING ANXIETY
The best way to deal with a dog’s low self-esteem is through the power of the pack—in these cases, the power of the dog pack. Structured training with other dogs will help with socialization, and will give an anxious dog examples of how to behave. This means working with a trainer, so you should choose one who will also help you find the right energy in yourself and help you learn how to train yourself as you train your dog.
As an anxious dog’s self-esteem starts to improve, you can then begin to expose the dog to different stimuli. A treadmill is ideal for this sort of work. Once the dog is comfortable with walking on a treadmill at a steady pace, you can begin to introduce sounds or objects that trigger her flight response, with the goal being that she does not react to them. The reason this works is because the action of walking on the treadmill engages the dog’s brain in moving forward, which is the opposite of the flight response. This conditions the dog to then associate the formerly terrifying stimulus with the action of moving toward it.
Further along in the process, begin exposing the dog to different situations, moving in little steps. If possible, have a friend or trainer with another dog on hand, then walk together in areas with other dogs, then other people; find places with unusual noises or smells; walk near a bike or skate path. With calm, assertive humans and another balanced dog in the mix, the anxious dog will begin to trust himself in such situations. This is also one of the few times when I recommend using a retractable-type lead, although sparingly and with caution—you want to encourage an anxious dog to be able to move away from you to explore, while also coming back to you should he become frightened, or when you call him back.
Anxious dogs frequently do well with agility training, because it gives them a clear set of goals to accomplish. Begin small, with only one or two sets of challenges, and then gradually expand the course. And remember—you’re not training the next world champion agility dog here; that isn’t the point. You are giving your dog a series of small goals; your dog’s confidence will increase with each one successfully reached.
If your dog is not anxious at home, but shows fearful behavior only when outside of the home, then you can try to use the dog’s nose to relieve the behavior. Start placing a drop or two of a pleasant scent, like lavender oil, on your hand before events that are pleasurable for your dog, like feeding time. Let the dog explore the scent and get used to it. Then, associate this smell with the experience of going on the walk in the same way, by placing a couple of drops on your hand before you pick up the leash. Once on the walk, if you see a situation coming that would normally make your dog panic, get out the scent (before the panic), and use it to distract your dog’s mind through his sense of smell and the pleasant association you have created.
Finally, whenever your dog moves into a fearful state, do not try to make her feel better with affection. Instead, maintain your calm, assertive energy, and practice my technique of “No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact.” Unlike humans, when dogs receive affection, they interpret it as approval of how they are behaving in that moment, and not as an attempt to make them feel “better.” So if you pet your dog and tell him, “It’ll be OK,” when he is in a fearful mode, what he understands is that you are telling him, “It’s OK to be this way. I will give you affection because you are scared.” This only reinforces the undesired behavior.
Fear is a powerful emotion in humans and dogs, but dogs do not have the ability to rationalize it away. They have only two instinctive reactions to fear: attack the source or run away from it. In a pack situation, some dogs are protectors. The dogs that aren’t protectors do not worry about whether they should be when danger approaches. Outside of the pack, though, dogs can wind up with no idea what their role is supposed to be. When this uncertainty is combined with a threatening stimulus, the dog can panic, and then lose all self-trust in knowing how to act at any given time. Although it is a difficult problem to resolve, even the most timid and anxious dog can be rehabilitated with time, patience, and the right tools.
FROM CESAR’S CASE FILES
Luna
One of the most anxious and fearful dogs I ever worked with was Luna, a year-and-a-half-old yellow Lab mix. She had been adopted from the Pasadena Humane Society as a puppy by Abel Delgado, who chose her because she reminded him of himself when he was young. He explained to me that he grew up in a large family of Mexican immigrants in Los Angeles, and both of his parents worked all the time, so he was left to take care of his younger siblings, but with the constant worry about what he was doing or was supposed to be doing.
Abel is now a music teacher, conductor, and flutist who works with schoolchildren through his own nonprofit foundation, and he has managed to conquer any anxiety issues he had when young. Luna, on the other hand, was not doing so well. As Abel described it, she was terrified of anything that moved or made a noise—basically anything living. Any objects with wheels—bicycles, skateboards, trucks—would send her into a panic on walks, and her only concern was running away, with no regard for her own safety.
One day on a walk, Luna’s collar broke and she took off directly into traffic, where she was grazed by a car and then disappeared on the other side of the street. Luckily, Abel found her, uninjured. But it was clear that Luna’s problem demonstrated the most extreme form of this kind of anxiety: Her flight response completely overrode her sense of self-preservation, and she literally fled from one danger right into another. It took two solid months at the Dog Psychology Center, but Luna eventually returned to life with Abel, and now can even go with him to work, to calmly watch him conduct a large and very loud student orchestra.
MISBEHAVIOR #4:
Fear of Loud Noises
Thunder is one of the most awesome sounds in nature. If you’ve ever been outdoors and away from a big city during a thunderstorm, then you’ve heard the deep boom that seems to explode from everywhere and rolls past in waves. It’s almost a living sound, and can be quite wonderful to listen to if you have no fear of it and understand that it’s produced when lightning strikes and heats the air. But to many dogs, this noise is terrifying.
It is not uncommon for dogs to show extreme fear in the presence of loud, unexpected noises. In addition to thunder, fireworks, gunshots, a car backfiring, or any number of abrupt sounds can also cause this reaction. It’s no accident that, in the United States, the Fourth of July and its fireworks coincide with the highest number of runaway dogs for the year.
It’s not fun to watch an otherwise calm and happy dog turn into a nervous wreck during a sudden storm or because of a festive celebration. Unfortunately, once a dog has reached this state, it can be very difficult to calm him down. As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, affection will not do anything except reinforce the unstable state. And, unfortunately, although we can predict the Fourth of July, people cannot really predict the weather accurately. If you can—then you can probably get your own TV show as a storm whisperer!
FEAR OF LOUD NOISES: THE CAUSES
Humans know that thunder is a completely natural phenomenon. However, for many animals, dogs included, a loud noise like thunder can induce a primal fear. They do not associate the flash of lightning with the burst of sound. To them, the noise comes from everywhere, so there is nowhere to hide. It also comes from above, which is the direction from which predators generally attack.
OVERCOMING FEAR OF LOUD NOISES
Unlike other issues, dealing with a fear of loud noises can be difficult because the noises are either unpredictable or come only once a year. You can plan ahead for the Fourth of July, however, and it is never too soon to start. Preparing your dog now for future fireworks will prevent a lot of issues, as well as help mitigate problems with other unexpected loud noises.
You can begin at any time by slowly getting your dog used to noises. Download sounds of fireworks, thunder, explosions, and other loud noises, and then start playing them at low volume while your dog is engaged in pleasurable activity, like eating or playing. Slowly increase the volume each day until your dog seems comfortable and undistracted by the sounds.
If an unexpected storm comes up, try distracting your dog during it. Work with her on obedience behaviors, like sitting or shaking, and reward her with treats. Put a backpack on her, or put her on a treadmill. The goal here is to focus your dog’s attention on something other than the thunder. You can also use your dog’s nose to distract her from the noise by exposing her to pleasant scents, like lavender or pine. If necessary, keep your dog on a leash next to you, even in the house. This will help prevent her from running away and keep her in the presence of your calm, assertive energy.
Remember that you have one advantage as a human—you can use the lightning to tell you when the thunder is coming, and then maintain calm and assertive energy as you wait expectantly for the loud noise, turning it into a game with your dog. Tell her, “Here it comes, here it comes,” and then, when the thunder strikes, celebrate with her. This will begin to associate the loud noise with affection, and will demonstrate your lack of fear with your positive energy.
On any day in which you know fireworks are going to occur, take your dog for a long walk well before the celebrations begin, and drain her energy. If you normally walk for a half hour, go for two hours instead. You want your dog to be so exhausted that her brain won’t even register the fireworks. You can also consider using dog-safe earplugs to reduce the intensity of the noise, which may be enough to prevent a flight reaction. And, of course, be sure that your dog is always wearing ID and, ideally, has an ID microchip, in case the noise does cause her to run away.
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| Insecure fences can be irresistible temptations to dogs who like to roam or chase. |
Although loud noises do occur in nature, many dogs are frightened by them and will attempt to flee, if possible. However, by draining your dog’s energy with exercise, engaging her attention elsewhere, or slowly getting her used to the sounds, you can go a long way toward minimizing any negative reactions, so that a summer storm or a fireworks show becomes just another noise.
MISBEHAVIOR #5:
Running Away
Some dogs are runners, and will take off at the first chance they get. In some cases, the behavior is opportunistic, and a dog will take advantage of an opened door or unlocked gate to go exploring. Other times, a dog will actively try to escape, burrowing under or leaping over a fence. You’ve probably even seen similar behavior at an off-leash dog park, with a person frantically chasing after a dog when it’s time to go home, and the dog refusing to come, no matter how many times her person calls, turning it into a game of “catch me if you can.”
It is actually more dangerous for a dog to run away in the human world than it is in the wild. The dog can become lost, or be killed or injured running into the street. The dog may be found by other humans, and without proper identification or a microchip, may never be returned to his original family. Dogs that take every opportunity to run off will probably wind up thinking they are in charge of the pack and will be impossible to control or discipline at home.
RUNNING AWAY: THE CAUSES
As with many other canine misbehaviors, the root causes of dogs fleeing the den are lack of leadership and mental stimulation, plus excess energy. Unlike humans who leave for work or school and leave the dogs behind, it is very unusual in nature for one or more members of a pack to leave the rest and wander off on their own. There’s no reason to. If a dog spots something to chase, it will alert the pack, and they will hunt together.
Although any dog can exhibit runaway behavior, certain breeds—particularly from the working, hound, and hunting groups of dogs—can be more likely to take off, as they follow their inbred instinct to chase prey.
OVERCOMING RUNNING AWAY
First, spaying or neutering your dogs will reduce their tendency to wander, especially male dogs. Having your dogs fixed, especially at an early age, will eliminate the hormonal signals that can induce wandering in search of a mate or the desire to claim their own territory. Neutered dogs are also less likely to mark inside the home, become aggressive, or get into fights.
Next, it is necessary to create boundaries, building an invisible barrier in every doorway. To do this, the humans in the household must claim these doorways as their own, training dogs so that they will not pass through without permission.
The beginning of each of several daily walks is the ideal time for this training. First, the dog must be in a calm, submissive state and sit quietly before you even put on the leash. Next, lead the dog to the door and open it, but do not allow the dog to go out. Make the dog sit on the inside of the open door and wait. You go out first. The dog is not allowed to follow you until you give her a clear and definite signal to do so. When returning home, repeat the procedure in reverse. Open the door, but do not allow the dog to enter first. Do this consistently every single time you walk the dog, and always vary the length of time you make the dog wait before going in and out. Especially early on, make the dog wait until she has stopped making any moves in anticipation of going out the door and is focused on you.
On the walk itself, keep the dog close to your side, and use a short lead to keep his head up. Do not allow him to sniff at or investigate anything on the ground for the first part of the walk. You keep moving forward, and the dog moves with you. When you can walk for a while with the dog at your side and not pulling, then you may reward him by allowing him to sniff at the ground briefly, before returning to moving forward with the dog at your side.
You should set boundaries on the walk as well, particularly at corners before crossing streets. Stop at the corner and make the dog stop next to you until she is calm and submissive, sitting if possible. Your dog is not allowed to cross the street until you give her permission; only when you begin to cross the street can she follow next to you. It may take a few tries at first to get your dog to stop and recognize the curb, but if you are consistent and do this at every street crossing, eventually the dog will stop before you tell her to, recognizing the boundary you have defined.
While you are working on creating these boundaries, you should also be working with your dog on “recall,” which is a term trainers use for calling your dog to come back to you. This will help reduce a dog’s tendency to turn her running away into a game of “catch me if you can.” For recall training, you may use a long lead. Move as far as possible away from the dog and call her. If the dog does not return, reel her in, and then move away and repeat the procedure. When she comes to you when called, reward her with affection or a treat.
Eventually, when the boundary of waiting before going out the door is second nature for your dog, work with her on waiting just outside the door. You can use the long lead for this exercise as well. Have your dog sit in a spot by the door, and then move away. If the dog begins to move from the spot, correct her and make her go back to the spot. Continue this for as long as necessary until the dog remains in the spot. Often, when the dog understands what’s expected, she will just lie down calmly in the spot.
Reinforce this waiting behavior at every opportunity you have. If you take your dog to a strange place with a door or a gate, then make the dog wait. You should also do the same with the car, letting the dog get in or out only when you give permission.
If you are concerned about your dog running off, then a GPS tracking device is a worthwhile investment. Worn like a collar, these devices include a tracker and wireless link. If your dog moves outside of a designated area, the device activates and will send a signal to your smartphone or computer showing the dog’s current location.
As pack animals with a territorial instinct, dogs are not naturally inclined to flee from home. However, without the proper exercise, discipline, mental stimulation, or rules, any dog may run off simply out of boredom, looking for something more interesting somewhere else. If you provide for your dog’s needs and make sure he is balanced and fulfilled, then he will have no reason to run off. If you create rules and boundaries regarding going in and out of the house, your dog will be far less inclined to take advantage of an open door.
FROM CESAR’S CASE FILES
Chula
Chula, a two-year-old Shiba Inu, was a classic example of a runner, and she would bolt out the front door whenever she found it open. This was a great concern to her people, Rita and Jack Stroud, because Chula would just take off, not looking where she was going. If they tried to chase her, she would turn it into a game by running farther away. On the walk, Chula would pull, trying to investigate or chase anything that came across her path. At home, she would jump from one piece of furniture to another, claiming each as her own.
In Chula’s case, I soon determined that Rita and Jack were walking her only one day a week, and were not discouraging her from jumping on the furniture. Because the Shiba Inu was bred as a hunting dog specializing in flushing out small prey, Chula’s natural instincts were not being fulfilled. The Strouds admitted that they spoiled her; without discipline, Chula was really running the household. Everything inside of the house was her kingdom, and so was everything outside. Once the Strouds established Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations, Chula’s behavior inside the house improved and her tendency to run away faded. They can even leave the front door open now, and Chula will stay inside.
MISBEHAVIOR #6:
Obsession
Obsession in dogs is different than in humans. We often say that humans are obsessed if they exhibit a strong interest in a hobby, a movie star, or a sports team—except for extreme cases, this sort of human obsession doesn’t interfere with day-to-day life. Because dogs do not intellectualize or rationalize their behavior, however, obsession can and usually does interfere with their lives, and with the lives of their owners.
What do we mean by “obsession” in dogs? This is when dogs become fixated on a certain behavior, locked in a mental state that keeps them focused on that one thing. Obsessive behavior can take many forms: chasing shadows, lights, or reflections; running or moving in constant circles; and licking or chewing on themselves without a physical cause such as a skin condition or a cut. When dogs reach this level of obsession, snapping them out of it can be very difficult.
OBSESSION: THE CAUSES
There are two main causes of obsession in dogs. One is excess energy that the dog needs to release. In this case, the dog will engage in the behavior until he exhausts himself. This type of obsession is usually the easiest to correct. The second and more difficult cause is insecurity. This can develop in a dog because of a trauma or panic-inducing event, particularly if the event occurs when the dog is young. When dogs exhibit insecure, obsessive behavior, they are letting us know that they lack strong leadership and direction, and so are focusing in an unhealthy way on something that makes them feel a false sense of security.
At times, insecurity can lead to excess energy and fuel the cycle of obsession. When a dog is in a state of constant alert, he is producing excess energy, as if he is wired on caffeine—always anxious, always hunting for an object of obsession. So dogs that are obsessed because of insecurity will often also work themselves up into a state of excess energy, and this becomes a feedback loop: Insecurity fuels obsession, which leads to a heightened state of anxiety, which creates excess energy, which fuels the obsession, and so on.
When the weather gets too hot, this cycle can actually be dangerous, leading a dog to overheat. An improper mental state can truly become a physical danger—but the problem can be dealt with.
OVERCOMING OBSESSION
To help your dog regain his balance, first you must figure out the cause of his behavior. Is your dog insecure, does he have excess energy, or is it a combination of both? Zeroing in on the cause will help you determine the best solution for your pet.
If you believe the cause is excess energy, then make sure that your dog is getting plenty of exercise with long walks, and that you then redirect attention away from any sign of the obsessive behavior toward a desired calm, submissive state of mind. Dogs that constantly dig in their backyards are usually frustrated because they don’t get enough exercise. If you have a strong breed that likes to run and can outlast you on a walk, try strapping a backpack on the dog before the walk. Alternatively, your dog can pull you on a bike or in-line skates to help exhaust her before you become too tired. You can also help redirect the obsession by providing mental challenges, like a rubber chew toy with a treat hidden inside.
To rehabilitate an obsessive dog, it is necessary to snap the dog out of the obsessive state of mind as it is about to happen, and the walk is an ideal venue to begin. (If your dog does not exhibit obsessive behavior on the walk, congratulations. You’re halfway there.) You’ll require a short lead and a correcting collar that sits high up on the neck, such as the Illusion Collar. Use this to give a correction with a short, gentle tug as soon as the dog shows any sign of moving into the obsessive state. If you give the tug too early or too late, the technique will not work. It’s all about the right timing.
In obsessions that involve chasing things, your dog will try to investigate the ground with her eyes. Your goal is to keep your dog’s head up, eyes ahead, moving forward with you. As soon as your dog tries to lower her head or look around distractedly, give the correction. It’s important that you do this the instant you sense your dog starting to move into the undesired mental state, and vital that you are consistent with the correction.
At first, your dog may try to “win” by outlasting you and getting what she wants. Do not give up, and do not give in. Most important, do not feel frustrated if your dog doesn’t get it at first. Maintain a calm, assertive energy at all times and remember: Your dog will not feel resentment when you show strong leadership. In fact, an insecure dog will appreciate it, because that is exactly what she needs. Continue with this process on the walk until you no longer need to give the correction to snap your dog out of the obsession.
Meanwhile, you will also need to deal with your dog’s obsession at home, and in a similar fashion. With the same lead and collar, take your dog around the house to the places where she engages in her obsessive behavior, again making the correction just as your dog starts to move into the obsessive state. You will need to do this in every room where the dog is allowed, to teach her that she is not to engage in the obsession just because, for example, she’s in the kitchen.
Eventually, instead of focusing on the obsession, the dog should begin to focus on you, showing calm, submissive energy. This is when you can offer praise, a treat, or whatever positive reinforcement works for your dog. As Pack Leaders, we have to redirect that energy, and teach our dogs that they do not have to chase reflections or spin in circles for everything to be all right in their world.
FROM CESAR’S CASE FILES
Brooks
Why does insecurity lead to obsession? Control. Having been frightened by something beyond their control, dogs can become neurotic, searching until they find that one thing they can control or that at least cannot turn around and attack. I dealt with exactly this in the case of Brooks, a five-year-old Entlebucher, or Swiss mountain dog, that would chase any sort of light or reflection, often running into people, furniture, or walls in his obsession.
When I met with Brooks’s owners, Lorain and Chuck Nicholson, I quickly determined the cause of the problem. As a puppy, Brooks was frightened first by being introduced too quickly to a neighbor’s dog, and then by a car backing out of a driveway. He became timid and fearful—and then Lorain’s brother-in-law introduced him to the game of “chase the laser pointer,” which Brooks took to, but way too much.
Having been frightened by large things beyond his control, Brooks had discovered something small and harmless. The light lured him into the chase because he learned that he could take control of it and be dominant. When the light wasn’t there, he would actively search for it, indulging in the obsession at anything similar, even the glossy shine of a wooden floor. Even on the walk, Brooks was at constant alert, searching the ground for any sign of a light to chase. Brooks responded almost immediately to redirection from his obsession when I began correcting him, and the Nicholsons were able to resolve the problem in a month or two of consistent correction, and by establishing Rules, Boundaries, and Limitations.
MISBEHAVIOR #7:
Hoarding
Some dogs will engage in hoarding behavior, hiding food, toys, or treats by “burying” them in furniture (such as under bedclothes or sofa cushions), or hiding them in corners, closets, or other out-of-the-way places. More than one dog owner has gone to bed only to find a pile of kibble under the pillow, or has swept under the bed only to discover every “lost” dog toy.
Allowing a dog to hoard like this can cause a dog to become possessive or aggressive over hidden food, protecting his stash from anyone who comes near it. It can also be messy and unsanitary, especially if you feed your dog wet or raw food or give him unstripped bones. You can only imagine how unpleasant it can be to have an unidentified smell around the house, only to find months later that it’s because of a pile of wet food hidden in a closet. (Well, the smell is unpleasant for humans. Insects and rodents would and do consider it a banquet, which is another reason it is not a good practice to allow.)
Finally, although the inside of a house is not like a forest with soft dirt everywhere, your dog won’t necessarily perceive it that way. A sofa cushion can feel like dirt to a dog, and so can a carpet. A dog sees nothing wrong with quickly ripping through upholstery. He doesn’t care if it’s $3,000 Italian leather or a $300 special from IKEA. In the moment, he’s just indulging in a natural instinct to dig and bury. A dog can do some serious damage to a carpet as well, but carpet can also do serious damage to a dog’s nose if he tries to root it up.
HOARDING: THE CAUSES
Hoarding has its roots in the behavior of wild dogs, and it is an evolutionary holdover. In the wild, there is no secure source of food. The pack hunts. Sometimes it will find little to no food; sometimes it will hit the jackpot and have an overabundance. It was quite natural, then, for the wild pack to hide extra food to have around for those times when the hunt was not successful, and the most common hiding method was to dig a hole and bury it.
Our modern household dogs generally do not have a problem with an irregular food supply. We are there to give them their kibble or wet food on a more-or-less consistent daily schedule. However, the inbred desire to ensure that there will be food in times of a lean hunt can drive some dogs to store away extra. Especially because there is always an adequate food supply, dogs with this drive may even hide some food before they begin to eat, grabbing a mouthful and running into another room. They don’t do this because they don’t like being watched when they eat. They do it to protect that imagined surplus.
OVERCOMING HOARDING
To deal with hoarding behavior for toys, you also must take control of the toys. Similar to part of the process of dealing with aggression, you need to gather up toys your dog is hoarding and put them somewhere out of your dog’s reach. Allow your dog to have only one or two toys at a time—she cannot play with more than one at a time anyway. Because she has no extra toys, she will remain focused on the ones in front of her and resist the urge to hide them because she will have no extra toys if she does.
The best way to stop the food-hoarding problem is to take control and structure your dog’s mealtime. Always take your dog on a long walk first, which allows her to work for her food. When you return home, prepare the food, and then make your dog sit and wait before you fill her bowl. When she can remain sitting quietly, projecting calm, submissive energy, place the bowl in front of her. When she stops eating and walks away from the bowl, mealtime is done. Remove the bowl and do not feed her again until you have repeated all of these steps.
By removing the food when your dog stops eating, you are also removing the temptation for your dog to come back later and hide the extra. There will always be just enough food, but never so much that there’s any to save for a “rainy day.”
Hoarding is one of those behaviors where a dog’s most ancient instincts collide with the modern world. The ironic result of feeding our dogs so well is that it can trigger in them a famine mentality because dogs live in the moment. They do not remember that you gave them a huge bowl of food yesterday nor do they know you are going to do so tomorrow. Rather, they see a huge bowl of food in front of them now, and an opportunity to not go hungry if they manage to save away what they don’t eat. Taking control of the rules of eating will eliminate unwanted hoarding behavior. It will also help to keep your dog from becoming obese. That’s two benefits for the price of one solution.
MISBEHAVIOR #8:
Excessive Barking
It’s a simple fact of life. Dogs bark. It’s one of their forms of communication, with many possible causes and meanings. It can be simply a response to a sudden stimulus, like the mailman at the door, or it can be an alert asking for help. In the pack, though, dogs do not normally communicate with each other by barking. Rather, when a pack starts barking, the entire group is responding to an outside stimulus or threat.
A dog’s barking should not be completely discouraged, of course, and it is very useful in the proper time and place. I have heard more than one police officer say that a dog with a deep, aggressive-sounding bark is the best home security system in the world. Dogs have used their bark to warn humans of other dangers, such as house fires, and some service dogs use barking to warn their handlers of medical conditions, like an imminent epileptic seizure or low blood sugar.
These are examples of proper times and places. However, we do not want our dog to bark constantly for no apparent reason, or to continue barking long after an appropriate moment has passed. Such excessive barking can cause damage to your dog’s vocal cords. It can also cause problems with the neighbors, and lead to fines or confiscation of the dog.
EXCESSIVE Barking: THE CAUSES
Like I said, dogs bark for many reasons, but excessive barking has a variety of causes, including pent-up energy, frustration, separation anxiety, or boredom. Obsessive barking is the manifestation of a dog saying, “My needs are not being met” over and over and over again. You just need to figure out which needs these are, provide the correction, and fulfill those needs.
OVERCOMING EXCESSIVE BARKING
First, look at the situation when the barking occurs. If your dog is barking nonstop when you aren’t at home, then it may be a sign of separation anxiety, which is dealt with next in this chapter. The key to reducing or eliminating barking when you aren’t home is to make sure that your dog is balanced through my fulfillment formula: Exercise, Discipline, then Affection, in that order. Exercise your dog with a vigorous walk before you leave the house, provide a place for the dog to go when you aren’t home, and then provide affection well after you’ve returned and when your dog has reached a calm, submissive state.
If the dog is barking while you are present, there’s a lot more you can do to deal with the problem, beginning with staying calm while trying to provide correction. All too often, I will see a person correct a dog by loudly yelling, “NO!” Especially in the case of barking, this will get you nowhere. Why? Because an already excited dog isn’t hearing a correction. Rather, he is hearing you joining in the barking by making a loud noise yourself. By trying to fix the problem by adding to the noise, you are just encouraging the behavior.
Start by correcting your dog and stopping the barking with a look, a sound like “Tsch!,” or a touch. As long as the barking continues, the corrections continue, but in a calm and assertive manner. You can actually get better results with a very low and quiet “No” that is clearly directed at the dog, because this sounds closer to a warning growl than a loud bark, and it does not exhibit excited energy on your part.
If your dog continues to bark at the same stimulus even after you’ve tried correcting her, then claim that stimulus as your own. In other words, use your energy, body language, and intent to direct your dog’s focus away from it, effectively creating a barrier between her and the cause of the barking. Also, by directing your attention away from the cause of the barking, you are telling your dog that it is of no concern to you.
The cause of the barking also provides an important clue about your dog’s state of mind. If she’s off at the end of the yard incessantly barking at the neighbors, it means that she is being intellectually fulfilled by whatever is going on over there and she is not being fulfilled at home. She is looking for excitement and a challenge, and finding it elsewhere. Once again, it is time to make sure she is getting enough exercise through the walk and has enough to interest her at home so that she doesn’t go looking for it elsewhere. If you find yourself not having any luck stopping the excessive barking yourself, don’t hesitate to call in a dog professional.
Like chewing, barking is a natural behavior for dogs, but it can become a problem when it is excessive or comes at inappropriate times. Depending on the underlying cause, you should be able to correct the behavior by providing your dog with fulfillment through the Exercise, Discipline, Affection formula, and your calm, assertive leadership.
FROM CESAR’S CASE FILES
Kuma
I dealt with a typical case of excessive barking for Jason Zulauf, a performer for Cirque du Soleil’s Las Vegas show KÀ. His American Eskimo dog, Kuma, would bark at everything, particularly visitors, and would not stop when corrected, only quieting down when she had worn herself out. Jason describes his character in the show as a somewhat buffoonish but lovable clown, an exaggerated version of himself. Unfortunately, he was bringing that character and that energy home with him, leaving Kuma to fill the leadership gap. I began by teaching Jason how to use calm, assertive energy to claim ownership of his space, particularly around the front door. He had also not been exercising Kuma enough, although I will admit that this can be a challenge in a place like Vegas, with its extreme summer climate. Jason and Kuma did show improvement. A few months later, although she was not completely rehabilitated, her barking behavior was minimized, and more under Jason’s control.
MISBEHAVIOR #9:
Separation Anxiety
In the wild, it is unnatural for members to leave the pack, so it is not normal for dogs when their people leave home. Although many dogs may show mild signs of anxiety when their people walk out the door, it does not escalate further, and they are able to occupy themselves until their pack returns. For some dogs, though, the absence of their humans is too much, and they develop what is known as separation anxiety. In severe cases, a dog may even show signs when a person leaves the room.
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| Separation anxiety is more than just “missing you.” |
Separation anxiety shows itself in symptoms such as excessive salivation, whining, barking, destructiveness, escape attempts, defecating or urinating in the home or crate, or scratching at walls or doors. In some extreme cases, dogs have even jumped through windows.
It is important to treat separation anxiety as soon as you become aware of it, because it can be a very destructive thing, both for your home and property and for your dog. A dog suffering from separation anxiety can destroy furniture, shoes, clothes, papers, computers, and more. The dog can damage walls, doors, and floors, and break windows. He can definitely injure himself in his frantic efforts to escape. Finally, a dog’s incessant whining or barking can lead to complaints by neighbors and a visit from animal control. In some areas, dogs that make excessive noise can be taken away and impounded.
SEPARATION ANXIETY: THE CAUSES
Separation anxiety happens when a dog has excess energy but has not been given direction on how to behave when apart from the human pack. Consequently, when the pack leaves, the dog will do everything she can to call the pack back or to follow where it went. Separation anxiety can be made worse if, instead of providing discipline, the humans give the dog affection on the way out the door. With the dog already in an unbalanced state, affection just reinforces the negative energy. In effect, you are telling the dog, “Remain anxious, because it’s a good thing.” You are not insulting your dog by not saying goodbye. When two dogs interact, they end the meeting by simply walking away from each other. That is the normal way for dogs.
OVERCOMING SEPARATION ANXIETY
The best thing you can do for your dog’s separation anxiety is to drain the energy fueling it. When your dog wakes up in the morning, her energy level may be at a 10. Your goal is to drain it to zero with a long walk or exercise before you go anywhere else for the day. When a dog’s energy level hits zero, this signals that it is time to rest.
You can prepare a dog for this by training her to “go to your space,” letting her settle in her bed or crate, and then walking away. The goal is for you to be able to leave the room without the dog moving from that space. Start small, leaving for a minute or so, and then work your way up. When you can get the dog to stay in the space quietly for 15 minutes, start leaving the house, again working your way up. Start with 5 minutes, then 10, 15, 30.
You may find that your dog does not stay in the space when you are gone for longer times. However, if you have associated that space with your absence, the dog will not leave to try to find you. Rather, she may get up to investigate a noise, get a drink of water, or just to stretch, returning to that space afterward.
When it comes to actually leaving the home, say goodbye to your dog long before you go. When she is calm and submissive, and after her exercise, it’s all right to give a little affection and tell her you’ll miss her while you’re gone. Of course, this is more for your benefit than hers. Remember, dogs don’t naturally say goodbye to each other. After you have done what you’ve had to so that you feel better, go about the rest of your routine, practicing the “No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact” approach. If you don’t make a big deal about getting ready to go, your dog won’t either.
In nature, dogs are almost never away from their pack, so separation from their humans can be very stressful. It is our job to reduce the energy that fuels separation anxiety, and to create a safe place for our dog to be in our absence. When using the previous tips, remember to project calm, assertive energy. This will build your dog’s confidence and help to further minimize her anxiety. Above all, make clear to your dog your expectations of where she should be and what she should do while you are gone by creating a safe place associated with restful energy.
FROM CESAR’S CASE FILES
Fella
I was once called in to deal with a dog’s separation anxiety because it was literally endangering the entire family’s living situation. After neighbors had complained multiple times about the dog’s incessant whining, Cindy Steiner and her daughter Sydney were one complaint away from being evicted. Their dog, a year-and-a-half-old terrier mix named Fella, exhibited extreme separation anxiety whenever he was left alone. He was also aggressive toward other dogs, and exhibited protective behavior whenever Cindy was holding him, growling and nipping at anyone who approached her. Luckily, using the techniques I’m about to describe, Cindy and Sydney were able to teach Fella to go into a resting state before his human pack left the apartment, and I showed them how to use a crate to create a safe space for him to go into. It took them about three and a half weeks to turn Fella around, but they are still living in the same apartment, and the neighbors cannot believe it’s the same dog.
MISBEHAVIOR #10:
Unwanted Chewing
Chewing is practically synonymous with normal dog behavior and, done in the proper way and with appropriate objects, is actually a good thing to encourage. It can help strengthen and clean your dog’s teeth, give an intellectual challenge, and in the case of puppies, alleviate teething pain and ease the transition from infant to adult teeth.
However, when dogs unleash their teeth on inappropriate objects, then such behavior becomes one of the biggest headaches for dog lovers. You may have experienced the feeling—coming home to find pieces of your favorite pair of shoes scattered all over the living room; that irreplaceable needlepoint pillow wedding present from Aunt Maggie shredded; the charger for your laptop turned into a cordless lump of plastic.
In such situations, though, disciplining the dog on the spot does no good. Chances are, the dog has already forgotten about what he chewed up, and he won’t relate your sudden scolding to the feathers scattered all over the house. In fact, discipline here may make matters worse. Your yelling at him for no apparent reason may just make him nervous, and chewing may be his way of calming down. If you mis-time the discipline, you may be saying goodbye to another favorite shoe.
Inappropriate chewing can also be very dangerous for a dog. A dog may break something into small pieces and swallow them, where they can cause problems in the esophagus, stomach, or intestines. She may get hold of a power cord that’s plugged in, possibly burning or electrocuting herself or starting a fire. Beyond physical danger to the dog, there are also the financial costs of replacing expensive items and emotional costs of losing items that are not replaceable at all.
So the challenge here is to make sure that an absolutely natural and healthy activity for a dog remains targeted at the right objects without you having to stick everything you own in high places or behind locked doors whenever you leave the house.
UNWANTED CHEWING: THE CAUSES
Most frequently, adult dogs use chewing to calm themselves and give their minds something interesting to do. It may be a holdover from their teething behavior as puppies, during which the action of chewing would have helped soothe the pain in their gums from new teeth coming in. The association with “ending an unpleasant feeling” from puppyhood may be enough to bring an adult dog back to a calm and submissive state. Calm and submissive is very good; it’s what you want. You just shouldn’t have to get it at the expense of your stuff being destroyed.
OVERCOMING UNWANTED CHEWING
It is easier to correct this behavior if you catch your dog with the inappropriate object in her mouth, as you can then associate the correction directly with the behavior. This is not to encourage entrapping your dog by leaving a sock out, however. It just explains what to do if you do catch your dog chewing something he shouldn’t be.
I’ve already discussed the importance of remaining calm. Give the dog a correction with a light, gentle touch of your fingers on the neck or hindquarters. This is meant to turn your dog’s attention away from the object. Do not try to take away the object unless your dog drops it upon correction. If she doesn’t drop it, then redirect her attention with an appropriate object, like a chew toy or a treat, which should get her to drop the object and take the approved item instead.
Once your dog has dropped the object, claim it as yours. Use your energy and body language to establish a connection between you and the object, and make it clear to the dog that the object is yours. It helps if you imagine an invisible boundary around you and the object. You can also pick it up and hold it close to your body while showing calm, assertive energy, physically saying quite clearly, “Mine.” If you ever observe two dogs deciding which one gets a lone toy, you’ll see that the dog that wins usually does so using nothing more than body language and energy, without resorting to growling or aggression. That dog will simply position herself over the object and then give the other dog a warning look. This is the dog’s way of saying, “Mine.”
If your dog or puppy is a chewer, then by all means provide her with safe, appropriate chew toys. Consult your veterinarian regarding edible objects, such as bones, rawhide, or other chews. Make sure other rubber or plastic toys are big enough that your dog cannot swallow them, and that they are not large enough that your dog can get her face or jaw stuck inside, especially if they have a hole in them. Be especially careful about toys designed to hide treats inside. Though they are typically fine, be absolutely certain that the toy has holes in both ends—one for your dog to try to get the treat out of, and another to let air flow in so that there’s no chance of creating a vacuum and trapping your dog’s tongue inside. The airhole should be at least the diameter of your pinkie.
Adult humans have 32 teeth, but adult dogs have ten more than that. Additionally, a dog’s front teeth are pointier and sharper than ours, and their jaws, back where the grinding molars are, are much more powerful than a human’s. A human being may crack a molar by biting an ice cube. Dogs can easily snap a bone in half with their molars. So, biologically, it’s obvious that dogs are quite capable of chewing; psychologically, dogs find the action calming and interesting. You should not discourage your dog from appropriate chewing, but you should never let a dog continue the habit of chewing inappropriate objects.
A Solid Foundation
All dogs will misbehave from time to time. But with the techniques in this chapter, you’ll be well on your way to addressing problems when they come up. Coupled with the laws, principles, and techniques from earlier chapters, you should have a solid foundation and methods for creating balance in your pack—no matter what comes up.
All of these tools come into play in every aspect of your relationship with your dog. But did you know that you can use them in your life before you even have a dog? In Choosing the Right Dog for You, I’m going to show how to apply all these practices as you search for the perfect dog to fit your lifestyle and energy.
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