Welcoming Your Dog Home

 

In this chapter

• Safeguarding your German Shepherd indoors and out
• Making it through the first night
• Saving your rugs, furniture, walls, and sanity
• Introducing a new dog to your children and existing pets
• Socializing your pup

Your new German Shepherd faces the transition from canine litter member to human family member. Every day will be full of novel experiences and new rules. Your pup is naturally inquisitive and will need you to safeguard him from danger and guide him toward becoming a well-mannered member of the household. This chapter explains how.

Puppy-Proofing Your Home

When you’re preparing to bring home a new dog, your best safety measure is your own diligence. You must impress upon your family or roommates the dire consequences that could occur if they carelessly leave a door open, slam a door without looking, allow the dog to dance around the lawn mower, or leave a puddle of antifreeze on the garage floor. Some people are just not safety- or pet-oriented, and making them exercise proper care can be difficult.

You can do your part by making it as difficult as possible for your pup to get into trouble. Any place your German Shepherd may wander must be German Shepherd–proofed. The first step is to do everything you would do to baby-proof your home. Get down at puppy level and see what dangers beckon.

Remember

Remember that a German Shepherd puppy is like a super-baby. Imagine a baby who can run faster than an adult, jump his own height, and chew through wires. That’s a German Shepherd puppy. And that’s why you have to be even more diligent in puppy-proofing than in baby-proofing.

Indoors

Watch for the following puppy hazards inside the house:

• Doors: Doors can be a hidden danger area. Make everyone in your family aware of the danger of slamming a door. Use doorstops to ensure that the wind does not blow doors shut suddenly or that the puppy does not go behind the door to play. Be especially cautious with swinging doors; a puppy may try to push one open, become caught, try to back out, and strangle himself. Clear glass doors are difficult for animals to see, and the puppy could be injured running into them. Place some stickers or decals on them at dog eye level. Never close a garage door with a puppy darting about. Finally, keep doors leading to unfenced outdoor areas securely shut. A screen door is a vital safety feature, but if you want one you can rely on, cover the screen with heavy hardware cloth; otherwise, your dog can rip right through.
• Electrical cords, outlets, and appliances: Puppies love to chew electrical cords and even lick outlets. Doing so can result in severe burns, loss of jaw and tongue tissue, or death from shock. Dogs can also pull electrical appliances down on themselves by pulling on cords. Keep cords tucked away, unused outlets covered, and appliances safely stowed out of reach.
• Unstable furniture and other objects: Jumping up on an unstable object (such as a bookcase) could cause it to come crashing down, perhaps crushing the puppy. Make sure that your furniture is anchored against walls or is well out of the way; if you have something fragile, consider using baby gates to keep the dog out of the room.
• Staircases, balconies, and decks: Don’t allow a puppy near the edges of high decks, balconies, or staircases. Use baby gates, temporary plastic fencing, or chicken wire if needed in dangerous areas.
• Other miscellaneous dangers: Puppies have gotten their heads caught inside canisters and suffocated, have been crushed under rocking and reclining chairs, and have even lost tongues from being stuck to metal on freezing days. No matter how diligent you are, you have to think of avoiding even the craziest-sounding accidents. The most important thing is to supervise, just as you would a baby or toddler.

Warning!

Also make sure that these potential household killers are well out of your dog’s reach:

• Antifreeze
• Chicken bones, or any bone that could be swallowed
• Chocolate (especially baker’s chocolate)
• Prescription and over-the-counter drugs
• Household cleaners
• Nuts and bolts or other small metal objects
• Paint thinner
• Pennies
• Pins, needles, and anything else in a sewing basket
• Rodent, snail, and insect bait
• Sponges
• Toilet cleaners and fresheners

Swallowed foreign objects can cause intestinal blockages that must be surgically corrected in order to save the dog’s life. Swallowed pennies can dissolve in the stomach and cause zinc poisoning. Chapter Taking Care of a Sick Shepherd provides information about what to do in these and other emergency situations.

Outdoors

Dangers also abound within the yard. Check for bushes with sharp, broken branches at German Shepherd eye level, as well as trees with dead branches or heavy fruits in danger of falling. If you have a pool, be aware that although dogs are natural swimmers, you must show your dog how to get out of the pool in case he falls or jumps in. You do so by getting in the pool with your dog while both of you swim and letting the dog practice leaving the pool by the steps. Do not allow or encourage the dog to try to pull himself up the side walls, and do not let him near the pool unsupervised.

Remember

The number-one safety precaution is a secure fence. Make sure that your German Shepherd can’t jump over it, dig under it, break through it, or let himself out of the gate because the latch is loose. (See Chapter Shopping for Dog Stuff for more on fencing.)

Warning!

Some outdoor plants are poisonous to dogs and other animals. If you have any of the following plants in your yard, either remove them or fence them off so that your dog can’t get into them:

• Azalea
• Castor bean
• Corn cockle
• English holly berries
• Foxglove
• Jerusalem cherry
• Jessamine
• Jimson weed
• Milkweed
• Mistletoe
• Oleander
• Philodendron
• Rattle box
• Rhododendron
• Water hemlock

Surviving the First Day and Night

Tip

If possible, arrange to take a few days off work when you first bring your new dog home so that the two of you have some time to get to know each other.If not, try to bring the pup home on a weekend. Remember that the pup has probably been a member of a large family, and spending his first day at your house all alone may be extremely frightening. Let him roam around the house with you, reassuring and rewarding him with touch and praise. Doing so helps the pup form a bond with you.

When you get the pup home, take him to the spot that will be his outdoor bathroom. After he relieves himself, praise him, let him explore a little, and then offer him a small meal (see Chapter Feeding Your German Shepherd for information about dog nutrition). Then take him back to his bathroom area so that he can relieve himself again.

Exploring

Don’t push matters with your new puppy. Let the first day be a quiet one. The pup has already had enough excitement with the trip to his new home. Now just let him get to know you and his new surroundings.

Of course, you want to keep an eye on your Shepherd during this exploration process. Puppies, like toddlers, can get into trouble if unsupervised. Your puppy is a natural-born explorer and will follow his nose into every nook and cranny of your home. You can always extend the area of your home in which your dog is welcome, but it’s a lot harder to tell your dog that he’s no longer allowed in certain areas when he’s used to wandering at will. To keep that roaming instinct in check, it’s wise to establish which areas are allowed and which are off-limits on the pup’s first day home.

The easiest way to keep your dog out of your pristine living room is simply to shut the door. You can also set up a baby gate or a cardboard panel. Eventually, you can teach your Shepherd to stay out by praising him for stopping at the doorway, but your young pup is not ready to assume such responsibility yet.

In general, you’re better off restricting your puppy’s access to one or two rooms in which you can easily supervise his activities. Many people find the kitchen to be a good place because it doesn’t have carpeting. Expanding the area is always easier than decreasing it; if you intend for your puppy to live outside, you may wish to limit his indoor access to only one room. Most young puppies are not yet ready to be placed outdoors by themselves, however.

Turning in

When your German Shepherd begins to act sleepy, place him in his cage or designated sleeping area (see Chapter Shopping for Dog Stuff) so he knows that this is his special bed. Be forewarned, though, that this first night will not be easy for the pup. Chances are that he has always slept cuddled with his litter mates and mother; sleeping by himself will be disconcerting.

Tip

To combat the loneliness, you can try including a stuffed toy in the dog’s cage, but even that won’t take the place of a living body. Placing the pup’s bed next to yours helps. The objective is for the puppy to learn to settle down and sleep without you fussing over him. This takes time (on his end) and patience (on yours). Tell him that he’s a good dog when he’s settled; if he learns that he’ll get attention when he cries, he’ll keep crying.

Warning!

ACCEPTING VISITORS

Chances are your friends and neighbors will be eager to see the new arrival. Your puppy has had enough excitement for one day, though, so discourage any but your pup’s future family members from visiting at first. Besides, your Shepherd needs to know just which people are going to be his family. In addition, your pup is still susceptible to contagious diseases. Friends with dogs of their own, especially sick or unvaccinated dogs, should at the very least wash their hands thoroughly and remove their shoes before visiting. Actually, such friends shouldn’t visit at all.

Should your German Shepherd sleep on your bed? Certainly not at first. Your pup needs to learn to sleep by himself, and he needs to have the security of a bed of his own. Consider this, too, before sharing a bed with a German Shepherd: No matter how large your bed, you will end up hanging off the edge while your dog stretches to his full length. In addition, a dog in bed can cause problems between couples when the dog decides to be jealous or overly protective. Finally, unless you change your sheets almost every day, you will be covered with hair and whatever else was on your dog’s paws. Just as with other furniture (see the section “Setting Boundaries,” later in this chapter), it’s easier to invite your dog up later than it is to suddenly make the bed off-limits.

Don’t count on getting much sleep this first night (or week). You need to be ready to take your puppy outside whenever he awakens. But start setting up good habits as soon as possible. Take your puppy to his spot when you go out, praise him for going quickly, and bring him back in if he doesn’t go. Don’t let him train you!

Setting Boundaries

Do you pride yourself on your beautiful home? Do you cherish your white velvet chairs and oriental rugs? Are you getting a little nervous envisioning a puppy in its midst? Come now, why on earth would you worry about unleashing a mobile set of barracuda teeth set on auto-chew, powered by four mud-tracking pistons and armed with a variety of orifices prone to randomly squirt out assorted yuck when you least expect it?

I know I said that you should treat your new German Shepherd like a real family member, but at least at first, think of your new dog as a very sloppy family member. German Shepherd pups don’t wipe their feet, they chew like beavers, they’re covered none too securely with fur, and they’re not overly particular about where they deposit bodily waste. Your idea of a better home and garden is unlikely to mesh with your dog’s. Unless you’re trying to make your in-laws and neighbors quit coming over, you have to set up some house rules for your new family member, or your new family member will rule the house.

Tip

You can’t prevent your dog from shedding, but you can cut down on how much shedding occurs by regular brushing, and you can control where it occurs by setting limits. You also can’t prevent your dog from chewing, but you can redirect chewing to more appropriate items and prevent the dog from getting his teeth near your valuable items. In other words, you can’t prevent your dog from being a dog — you wouldn’t want to! But you can set limits.

Chewing

Part of a pup’s exploratory tools are his teeth, and any chewed items left in his wake are your fault, not your pup’s — you are the one who should have known better. Harsh corrections are no more effective than a firm “No” and removal of the item. If you come across a cherished item chewed to bits and feel compelled to lash out, go ahead — hit yourself in the head a few times for slipping up. It may teach you a lesson!

The best cure for chewing is the removal of all inappropriate items from the reach of the dog’s jaws. Another good cure is age. Your puppy really will grow out of his need to gnaw everything in sight, but it may take a year or so for things to get better.

Warning!

Shaking a puppy (or adult dog) as a means of discipline is no safer than shaking a baby. It’s a good way to cause neck injuries or brain damage. In an adult, it’s also a good way to get yourself bitten.

Getting on the furniture

Like all intelligent creatures, German Shepherds enjoy the creature comforts of chairs and sofas. Keep in mind that your nice furniture won’t be nice for long after your dog sheds all over it, tries to dig a hole in it, dances on it with muddy paws, and chews on the arms while drifting off to sleep. If you don’t want your dog on the furniture, keep him off from the beginning. Don’t pick up the puppy and set him on your lap; instead, sit on the floor with him.

When your pup does get on forbidden furniture, simply say “No” and place him — don’t fling him! — back on the floor. If you don’t seem to be making progress, you can buy a device that emits a loud tone when the dog jumps on furniture (and in really hard cases, you can even get a mat that provides an electric buzz when the dog steps on it), but such devices shouldn’t be necessary if you train your puppy gently and consistently from the beginning. Make sure that every family member knows the rules and understands that sneaking the puppy onto off-limits furniture does the puppy no favors.

But how can you treat your dear dog like a less privileged member of the family? You can make compromises. Your dog can learn that he is allowed only on certain pieces of furniture, or only if his special blanket is on the furniture. Your dog can have his own special bed, maybe next to your own. Restricting your dog doesn’t mean making him second-class — it means making sure that he has a place to call his own.

General misbehavior

If your pup misbehaves, you can go berserk, or you can count to 3, and then 33, and end up with a far better trained dog in the long run. Dogs don’t understand English, and they don’t understand you losing your temper. They really do want to please you, but it’s a strange world with strange rules that don’t always make sense to fun-loving pups. The situation will get better, so make sure that you can look back at these precious months and remember the fun parts without being ashamed of your own lack of training in temper control. Your puppy will never be a puppy again. They really do grow up too fast.

Remember

The first few months are a time of incredible fun and hair-pulling frustration. Your pup will have flashes of intelligence and obedience matched by periods of apparent dumbness and disobedience. No matter how wonderful your dog is and how careful you are, you will lose a few cherished possessions and more than a few good nights’ sleep — all of which is part of raising a puppy.

Introducing Your Dog to the World

Too many people, especially those who live in rural areas, forget that there’s a whole big world out there, and if your dog spends his puppyhood down on the farm, it really will be a case of country come to town when you finally take him to the big city. You can’t put this off because puppies are born basically fearless. As they open their eyes and begin to explore the world, they can’t afford to be afraid of every new thing they see because everything they see is new. So when they’re very young, up to the age of about 12 weeks, they take new experiences in stride. Therefore, the best time to introduce your dog to the world is from about 8 to 12 weeks of age. During this time, the puppy will not be frightened of new experiences and will come to accept them readily and happily. These happy memories will stay with the pup as he grows into adulthood. (See Figure 6-1.)

FIGURE 6-1: By exposing your puppy to a variety of new experiences, such as children and the outdoors, you teach him not to be afraid of the world around him.

Of course, a dog without fear is a dead (or stupid) dog, and starting at around 12 weeks, puppies begin to get a little more suspicious of anything new. This suspicious nature continues to grow. If you wait until your pup is older, when he has become fearful of new experiences, you may never convince him that harmless things are indeed harmless. Therefore, you should expose your pup to as many novel experiences early in puppyhood as possible. Try to expose him to

• Children
• Strangers, both men and women
• Other dogs
• Cats and other pets
• Car rides
• Loud noises
• Traffic
• A variety of footing and surfaces
• Swimming
• Ball chasing and other appropriate games
• Bathing and grooming procedures
• Being alone
• Being in a cage
• Any specialized circumstances or equipment required of working or competition dogs

Remember, the idea is not to overwhelm but to expose — and to make it a good experience. Bring a pocket full of treats and hand them out liberally.

Many people arrange for their dogs to be exposed to everything — the dogs go with them to work, then to class, and then to a new experience every day. But the owners forget one thing: to expose the pup to being by himself. This omission is serious because separation anxiety is one of the largest sources of dog problems. Dogs are social animals who don’t like to be alone, but most dogs have to be alone at some time or another. Start when your Shepherd is already tired, and leave him in a place where he is secure. Leave him for only a little while. Don’t sneak out, but don’t make a big deal of leaving, either. Just nonchalantly leave and return. Work up to longer times. If your dog does well with this exercise, great! If not, see Chapter Dealing with a “Bad Dog”.

What about disease? You’re right, you can’t trot your puppy all around town without worrying about him catching a disease. The thing about socialization, though, is that a little bit will do. Take your dog to a “clean” area (one in which unvaccinated dogs or puppies are unlikely to have been) a few times when he’s young. If you expose him to other puppies, make sure that they have been vaccinated.

Warning!

One more important thing about socializing puppies: A bad experience is worse than no experience at all. Puppies learn from outings, and they’re just as likely to learn that strangers are mean as they are that strangers are kind. Be very careful that your pup doesn’t get hurt or frightened. Don’t think that if a little is good, a lot is better. For example, if you want your puppy to enjoy a stroll downtown and meeting new people, don’t figure that by taking him to the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, you will be socializing even more. You won’t. You will overwhelm your pup and achieve the opposite result of what you expected.

Remember

Every dog is different. Some approach everything in life as though they owned the patent to it, and others are more naturally wary and lack confidence. The latter type needs a little more work, but don’t think that by flooding a dog with crowds and new experiences you will miraculously make him brave. You need to build his confidence, and that only happens gradually. Just as with people, confidence comes from pride in a job well done, so the best thing for these dogs is to learn to do something. For a very young puppy, simple obedience may be the answer. For an older dog, agility is probably the best confidence builder. For some Shepherds, Schutzhund training (see Chapter Showing Off Your Dog) may prove the answer, but you have to be extremely careful in your training. Tracking or herding can also be great confidence boosters.

Taking Your Pup to School

In many towns, obedience groups offer puppy kindergarten classes. These classes are a great opportunity to expose your pup to nice people and other pups his own age. Especially if you have only one dog, he may not have many opportunities to interact with other dogs. But again, this doesn’t mean that running amuck with his new buddies is necessarily a good thing, especially if your dog gets beat up or is the bully. You need to know when to step in and say, “Enough is enough!”

Remember

Ask your veterinarian’s opinion about your pup’s immunity status before taking him around other dogs. (See Chapter Working with Your Dog’s Other Best Friend: His Veterinarian for information about finding and working with a vet.)

In general, these classes are great, and you’re lucky if you can find one in your area. Contact the American Kennel Club or your vet for the name of a nearby obedience training club or German Shepherd club. These clubs may offer their own classes or be able to suggest a good class for you to attend. While being exposed to new experiences, your pup can start practicing his first simple obedience exercises and learn to control himself in public. You can also get advice about common puppyhood problems. As with all classes, there are good ones and rotten ones, so check it out first and don’t be shy about complaining or quitting if things don’t seem right after you enroll.

by D. Caroline Coile, PhD