Shopping for Dog Stuff

 

In this chapter

• Getting what you really need to make life good for your Shepherd
• Knowing which products you don’t want to buy
• Taking precautions with even the best products
• Stocking your doggy medicine cabinet

One of the best things about getting a new dog is that it gives you an excuse to go on a major shopping spree. True, your new pup will just as likely ignore his fancy store-bought toys in favor of an old sock, or choose a pile of rags to sleep on instead of his new velvet pad, but you will have the satisfaction of knowing that you have the most spoiled-rotten dog in the neighborhood.

Even if you have more Spartan ideas for your German Shepherd, you need some fundamentals. This chapter tells you exactly what you need, and also tells you about some extras that are good to have.

Fencing Your Yard

The number-one German Shepherd accessory and lifesaver is a securely fenced yard. In today’s world, a loose dog is at best an unwelcome visitor and at worst a dead dog. GSDs are gifted jumpers, climbers, diggers, and wrigglers who often find other dogs, playing children, racing bicycles, or the call of the wild irresistible. Having a fence in place ensures that your dog will stay within his own yard, which is best for his safety as well as the safety of others outside the fence.

If the dumbest thing you can do is to let your dog run loose, the next dumbest is to chain him up. Dog chains are the perfect recipe for strangled or aggressive dogs. They are not acceptable. Neither is a little dog pen stuck out in the back 40. Even if you live in the middle of the country, you need a fenced yard for your German Shepherd — a yard that he shares with the rest of the family.

Warning!

Never tie your dog out in the yard, even on a trolley line. Doing so is cruel and foolish — and is the perfect way to create an aggressive, neurotic, unhappy dog. Plus, your GSD could hurt his neck, choke to death, or be attacked by strays running loose.

In warm weather, shade must be available. If your yard doesn’t offer your dog a shady spot to rest in, consider getting a doghouse (see the “Doghouses” section later in this chapter). When the temperature rises and the sun is shining brightly, make sure that your GSD has extra cool water to drink, and bring him inside on occasion so that he can cool down.

Tip

A great summertime cooler is a kiddie wading pool. Introduce your dog to the pool as a pup, and he will learn to lounge in the water to keep cool on hot days.

Doghouses

If your dog will spend a lot of time outside, you may need to build or purchase a doghouse. The best doghouses have a removable top for cleaning and a doorway system that prevents wind and rain from whipping into the sleeping quarters — which means a design with two offset doors and an “entrance hall.” One of the doors should have a hanging rubber or fabric doggy door-type flap. The floor should be slightly raised, and soft bedding should be in the sleeping quarters.

INVISIBLE FENCES

Invisible fences have become popular alternatives to traditional fences, but they do have their shortcomings. Because they work only on a dog wearing a special shock collar that is activated by the buried boundary wire, they can’t keep out loose dogs who aren’t wearing such collars, nor can they keep out unscrupulous dognappers. In addition, an excited, determined, or fast-moving GSD can get over the boundary before he has a chance to stop and then find himself blocked out of the yard. Nonetheless, most owners report good results with these fences, and they’re an option for a front yard in a neighborhood in which a regular fence would be out of place. The best approach is to teach your dog what the boundaries are.

Kennel runs

A secure kennel run can be a convenient asset that provides a safe outdoor area for your German Shepherd while you’re away from home, although it’s not a substitute for a fenced yard or a home. The run should be at least 8 feet high and preferably have a top. A dog can get more exercise in a long, narrow run than in a square run of equal area. If the run is separated from the house, set it up so that it is parallel to the house, which encourages the dog to run back and forth along its length. In a run that’s set at a right angle to the house, the dog tends to stay at the end closest to the house.

The most convenient type of run has a doggy door leading to an inside enclosure, often another small run, an area in the garage, or a laundry area. This door affords your dog shelter in case of bad weather. If you can’t provide a door leading to the inside, make sure that your kennel run offers both shade and shelter, such as a doghouse.

Warning!

If you place a doghouse within the run, make sure that your dog can’t jump on the top of the doghouse and then out of the kennel run.

Dirt flooring can become muddy and harbor germs, as well as encourage digging. Cement flooring is easy to clean but holds odors and is expensive. The best compromise flooring for a kennel run is pea gravel, which is fairly easy to keep clean by scooping and hosing.

Living It Up: Home Spaces

If you want your dog to consider your house a home sweet home, you want to set him up with a comfy space that he can call his own. This section discusses the various home spaces that you may want to consider providing.

Dummies Approved

Don’t forget baby gates! They’re better than closed doors for placing parts of your home off-limits. Do not use the accordion-style gates, however, because a dog can get his head stuck in them and asphyxiate.

Cages

Many new dog owners are initially appalled at the idea of putting their pets in cages (or “crates”) as though they were wild beasts. At times, though, your GSD pup may seem like a wild beast, and a cage is one way to save your home from ruination and yourself from insanity.

A cage can provide a quiet haven for your pup. Just as you find peace and security as you sink into your own bed at night, your pup needs a place that he can seek out whenever he needs rest and solitude. If you use the cage properly, your GSD will come to think of it not as way to keep himself in, but as a way to keep others out!

A cage should be the canine equivalent of a toddler’s crib. It is a place for naptime, a place where you can leave your pup without worrying that he will hurt himself or your home. It is not a place for punishment, nor is it a storage box for your dog when you’re through playing with him.

Warning!

Cages are convenient — sometimes so convenient that they’re overused. Don’t expect your dog to stay in a cage all day, every day, while you’re at work. Confining a dog to a cage is not only unfair, and even cruel, but it can also lead to behavior problems. Locking an intelligent, active dog in a cage without stimulation can result in such frustration and anxiety that the dog begins to resent the cage and act uncontrollably when out of the cage.

Nonetheless, a cage has its place in training. Place the cage in a corner of a quiet room, but not too far from the rest of the family. Place the pup in the cage when he begins to fall asleep, and he will become accustomed to using it as his bed. Be sure to place a soft blanket in the bottom. By taking the pup directly from the cage to the outdoors when he wakes, the cage will be one of the handiest housebreaking aids at your disposal. (See Chapter Training Your Dog for information about housebreaking and other dog training.)

The ideal cage is large enough for a puppy to stand up in but not walk around in — cages in which a dog can walk around tend to be used as  bathrooms. If your dog will spend long stretches of time in the cage, it should be large enough to stretch out in. If money were no object, you could keep buying ever-expanding cages as your GSD gets bigger, but a less-expensive option is to buy a large cage and then place a divider in it that you gradually move to accommodate the growing pup.

Remember

If you plan to travel with your cage, make sure that it fits in your car and that it is easy to transport.

Most cages are made of either wire or plastic. Fancy metal cages are also available — for a fancy price. They are the choice of the elite for shipping, but they’re out of the average owner’s price range.

• Wire cages provide better ventilation and view for your dog, and most (especially the “suitcase” models) are easily collapsible for storage or transport. They can be drafty and don’t provide the coziness of plastic cages, though. Also, a bored dog may be tempted to pull things through the grates, effectively straining the new coat that you happened to place on top of the cage. Most wire cages are not approved for airline shipping.
• Plastic “airline” cages — the most common cages used for flying — are relatively inexpensive. They don’t provide as good of ventilation but can be cozy, especially in winter. They take up more room in storage, however, because they break down only into halves.

Remember

Whatever type of cage you choose, pay special attention to the latching mechanism. Make sure that a determined dog can’t spring the door. You want a latch that doesn’t come loose if the cage is rattled, and that a dog can’t get a muzzle or toe under and push up. Most latches that require two hand movements to open them are relatively dog-proof.

Beds

If you’re like most people, you sleep in a bed. If you’re like most new dog owners, you are adamant that your dog won’t be sharing it. The chances of you sticking to that promise are much better if your dog has a bed of his own. Yet many dog owners go to bed at night and leave their dogs wandering aimlessly around the house without beds to call their own. When they discover the dogs sleeping on the sofa, they label the dogs as sneaky, but Shepherds need comfortable beds just as much as you do.

A bed can be a folded blanket, a baby crib mattress, a papasan cushion, a fancy dog bed, or anything moderately soft and preferably washable. You can place it in a corner, a box, a dog cage, or anywhere out of drafts and away from excitement. Whatever you use and wherever you put it, the most important thing is that it serves as a place your dog can call his own. The second most important thing is that you don’t use the traditional wicker basket . . . unless you have an insatiable desire to play pick-up sticks.

Exercise pens

An exercise pen (or X-pen) fulfills many of the same functions as a cage. X-pens are transportable wire folding “playpens” for dogs, typically about 4 feet x 4 feet in size. An X-pen is a reasonable solution when you must be gone for several hours, because the pup can relieve himself on paper in one corner, sleep on a soft bed in the other, and frolic with his toys all over! It’s like having a little yard inside.

An X-pen provides a safe time-out area when you need quiet time for yourself. But before leaving your pup in an X-pen, make sure that he can’t jump or climb out — covers are available for incorrigible escapees.

If you use an X-pen, cover the floor beneath it with thick plastic (an old shower curtain works well) and then add towels or washable rugs for traction and absorbency. Again, don’t expect to stick your GSD pup in an X-pen all day every day and still have a sane dog.

Collaring Your GSD

Few items of such importance are so incorrectly chosen for dogs than the simple leash and collar. Just like your clothing, one size does not fit all, and one style does not fit all occasions.

Collars

For collars, you can choose between buckle, choke, and martingale (see Figure 5-1):

• Buckle collars with tags: Every dog should have a buckle collar to wear around the house. On it should be your dog’s license and identification tags (preferably the flat plate type). You will have to buy several buckle collars as your pup grows, but just get the nylon puppy collars, which don’t cost much. When your dog reaches maturity, you can splurge on a handsome leather or web collar. (The rhinestone variety isn’t very popular for German Shepherds.)

The problem with buckle collars is that constant, long-term wear can wear away the dog’s hair. You can avoid this problem by removing the collar at night while your dog sleeps. Another problem is that a buckle collar can slip over a dog’s head if he tries to back out of it, and it gives the handler little control if the dog is strong and strong-minded.

• Choke collars: A choke (or slip) collar may be a better choice for walking a dog on a leash. Choke collars come in nylon or chain, with chain giving a bit more control.

Warning!

The main problem with choke collars of any type is their tendency to literally choke dogs to death. Countless dogs have gotten their choke collars caught on sticks, fences, car parts, or even a playmate’s tooth and have died — sometimes in front of their desperate owners who could not dislodge them because of the dogs’ frantic actions. Never leave a choke collar on a dog unattended. Doing so is like sending a child out to play with a hangman’s noose around her neck.

FIGURE 5-1: Different situations call for different collars.

Dummies Approved

The best choice for GSD choke collars are called “fur-saving” chain chokes, which have very large oval links, each about 1 inch long.

• Martingale collars: A compromise between a buckle collar and a choke collar is a martingale collar, which tightens when pulled but can tighten only so much. Most martingale collars are made of nylon.

A prong collar is a special type of martingale collar. These collars have links with prongs that bite into the dog when the collar tightens. Needless to say, their use is controversial. If you’re physically unable to control your dog, however, a prong collar may be your only safe choice. Get professional advice on the proper use of the collar in training the dog.

Just as you wear different outfits for different reasons, your dog can wear different collars in different situations. A buckle collar is best for around the house, but a choke or martingale is better for walking on lead.

A problem with any kind of collar is that controlling a dog by his neck is somewhat difficult. When the collar slips down low on the neck, the dog can throw his weight into it and pull with reckless abandon, oblivious to all your pulling. A head collar can control your dog better by controlling his head. This type of collar works on the same principle as a horse halter; where the nose goes, the body follows. Head collars are a humane and effective alternative for headstrong Shepherds.

GIVING YOUR DOG A CHIP ON HIS SHOULDER OR A TATTOO ON HIS THIGH

Your dog needs at least two forms of identity: an identification tag on his collar (see the “Collars” section) and a second, nonremovable piece. One option for this second form of identity is a tattoo. Although you can have a skull and crossbones or “Mom” tattooed on your dog, your social security number or your dog’s registration number is easier to trace. These tattoos, usually placed on the inside of the dog’s thigh, provide a relatively permanent means of identification (although they sometimes fade or are hard to read on a dog with dark skin or thick hair). You register the tattoo numbers with one of several lost pet recovery agencies, which will contact you if you report the dog lost or stolen. A determined dognapper could obscure the tattoo with subsequent tattooing, however. The more permanent and informative means of identification is a microchip, which contains information about the dog and is placed under the dog’s skin with a simple injection. Its shortcoming is that you need a special scanner to read it. (Most animal shelters, but few veterinarians, own them.) The number is registered with a microchip dog recovery agency, which will contact you if it finds your dog after he is lost or stolen. Modern microchips are perfectly safe — they can’t migrate through a dog’s body. Some early microchips could migrate several inches from their original sites, but changes in their design have made microchips quite immobile. The best solution to the “identity crisis” is all three forms of ID: tag, tattoo, and microchip. Of course, an even better solution is never to chance getting separated from your companion in the first place.

Harnesses that fit around the chest are seldom used on German Shepherds because they afford the least control of any restraining device. They were created to distribute weight so that a horse or sled dog can pull the most with the least effort. They’re very safe for obedient dogs, but you’ll be unable to control a Shepherd wearing a harness if he decides that he wants to go elsewhere.

Remember

Every dog should have an up-to-date ID tag on his collar. Flat tags are better than hanging ones because they’re less likely to get caught on a playmate’s tooth.

Leashes

As Chapter Exercising Your Dog explains in more detail, German Shepherds need exercise, and walking is a great form of physical activity for both you and your dog. Leashes also aid in training (discussed in Chapter Training Your Dog).

For everyday use, get a sturdy web, nylon, or leather leash that is 4 or 6 feet long. Shorter leashes are better when walking in crowed places, and puppies can use lighter leashes. For early leash training, a light, adjustable show lead works well. These are one-piece collars and leads that have an adjustable head loop but no choking action.

Warning!

The stupidest leash ever designed is the chain leash. You can’t grab them because they cut your hand, and they’re actually more likely to break than good web leashes are. Don’t purchase chain leashes!

Retractable leashes are very popular and useful, but they’re often carelessly used. They’re not for use around other dogs or people, who too often get in the way and get tied up in the long line. Nor are they for use next to roadways; dogs are too apt to run in the road before you can put on the brakes. In addition, if you drop one of these leashes, it retracts toward the dog, which can cause the dog to think that the leash is coming after him, creating a horrifying chase in which the panicked dog runs faster and farther in a futile attempt to get away. Finally, be careful! People have lost finger parts when the line has whipped across their hands.

Getting the Scoop on Poop

The least glamorous thing on your shopping list is a poop scoop. It’s also one of the handiest. If you have a yard, don’t try to clean it with makeshift shovels and buckets; use something designed to make the job easy and less yucky. The two-part poop scoops are easier to use than the hinged ones. The ones with a rake are better for grass, and the flat ones are better for cement — think about where you’ll be walking your dog and choose the appropriate type. If you walk your dog on city streets, a number of poop disposal baggy systems are available. Use them.

After you pick up the poop, where do you put it? It depends on your city’s ordinances. You may just chuck it in the trash or in your own toilet. You can also get a dog-poop disposal system that digests dog wastes in a little bucket that you bury in your yard. These systems work great — as long as you don’t have too many dogs!

Toying with Your Dog

German Shepherds may not be in the Toy Group, but they certainly are toy dogs — toy-loving, that is. Just as they do with children, toys play an important role in a dog’s mental and physical stimulation. Dogs who have toys are more confident in manipulating items with their mouths and are less likely to chew inappropriate items. Following are some popular toys that will amuse your GSD:

• Balls: The ball remains the standard dog toy. Hard rubber balls are ideal for tough-playing puppies. A large, partially deflated soccer ball also makes a great plaything.

Warning!

Avoid balls that your GSD can swallow or inhale, such as golf balls and jack balls. Also keep your dog away from balls that he can chew up (such as soft rubber balls) unless you’re around to supervise. Dogs who chew on balls a lot should not have tennis balls, which may contain toxins.

• Fleece and other stuffed toys: Fleece toys have become very popular, and most dogs love them. Again, they’re not chew toys, and you should not allow your dog to play unsupervised with them if he might chew them up. Children’s stuffed toys are good alternatives for dogs who are not great destroyers; long, stuffed snakes are a favorite. For safety’s sake, first remove any eyes or nose ornaments that a dog could pull off and swallow.
• Flying discs: Many Shepherds love flying discs, but be sure to get the soft type made especially for dogs. The hard types can damage teeth if the dog tries to catch one.
• Squeaky toys: Most squeaky toys are not great choices for puppies or for any dog who chews toys apart. Many are made of plastic that a puppy can chew and swallow easily. In most squeaky toys, the squeaker is easy to dislodge and swallow. If you must get a squeaky toy for your dog, buy a squeaky stuffed animal or a toy made for children, in which the squeakers are usually better made. And never leave your GSD unsupervised with a squeaky toy. These are toys, not chewies, and should be used only when you’re playing with the dog.
• Sticks: The traditional stick can be great fun. Make sure that the ends are blunt and that the stick isn’t so long that your Shepherd can jab one end into the ground if he’s holding the other end in his mouth — the dog can jab a hole in the roof of his mouth that way. And of course, make sure that your dog doesn’t eat the stick!

Tip

You can also tie a rag on a rope and tie the rope on the end of a stick, run around the yard holding the stick and dragging the rag, and “troll” for your dog — as well as practice your sport fishing skills when you get a bite. It’s best to play this game when your neighbors aren’t looking.

• Toys that hold food: A good choice is a toy (such as Kong or Buster Cube toys) in which you can place food, such as peanut butter or dog kibble. The dog can spend a long time extracting the food from the toy. These toys are great for times when you must leave your dog alone — they’ll keep him so busy that he won’t remember to pine away in your absence.
• Homemade toys: Stuff a sock with a couple of other socks, knot it near the end, and leave a long “leg” for throwing and tug o’ war, and you have one of the best toys money can’t buy. Take an old plastic milk jug or soda bottle, and you have wacky, noisy throw toy that bounces erratically. Throw in a few dog biscuits or kibble, and you have a challenging puzzle.

Warning!

Contrary to popular belief, old shoes do not make great dog toys. German Shepherds are smart, but they can’t tell the difference between last year’s old styles and this year’s new ones — and when they come across your open closet, they may think that they’ve gone to toy heaven.

Choosing Chews

Shepherds love to chew. If you leave them to their own devices, they will chew shoes, furniture, walls, and anything else that will succumb to their vice-grip jaws.

You’ll be far more successful in redirecting your dog’s chewing than in trying to abolish it — do so by providing him with chews that tire his active jaws. The most popular chew items are those made of rawhide. These chews are usually safe, but some serious problems have been associated with rawhide chews. To start, rawhide from other countries is often processed with poisonous substances. Insist on rawhide made in the U.S.

Chewing rawhide has a minimal effect on cleaning teeth, but it can never take the place of brushing your dog’s teeth (see Chapter Grooming Your Dog).

Although it doesn’t happen often, some dogs have had problems with im-pacted, undigested rawhide that have required surgery. Others have choked on large hunks of rawhide.

Dummies Approved

Safer alternatives are rawhide chews made of compressed rawhide bits, although they don’t last as long as regular rawhide chews do. A variety of vegetable-based chews are also available. For gator-jawed dogs, hard rubber or nylon bones can last a long time and provide good dental cleaning.

For a special treat, a variety of disgusting animal parts are available: hooves, ears, knuckle bones, and others that are unmentionable in mixed company. Pig ears are a great treat but are high in fat and can cause diarrhea. Knuckle bones are a traditional good choice. Hooves tend to splinter and have been implicated in some problems. They’re extremely hard, and if you keep them in the house, you may end up throwing them away in a fit of rage after stepping on one in the middle of the night for the tenth time.

Warning!

Be careful when you handle these dog treats. Some people have caught salmonella from handling them and then placing their hands in their mouths. Dogs are apparently more resistant to salmonella.

While I’m on the subject of chews, I should remind you about anti-chews. Bittertasting sprays and liquids are available that dissuade dogs from chewing surfaces. After checking to make sure that it won’t stain your items, apply these sprays to anything you don’t want your dog to chew but that may be tempting — your shoes, your sofa, and so on.

Stocking Up on First-Aid Supplies

Dog medical emergencies are just as scary as human ones — and having the right supplies on hand can make a big difference in how a dog recovers. Keep the following items in your doggy medicine chest in case your dog becomes ill or is injured:

• Anti-diarrhea medication
• Antiseptic skin ointment
• Clean sponge
• First-aid instructions
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Instant cold compress
• Ophthalmic (eye) ointment
• Pen light
• Rectal thermometer
• Scissors
• Self-adhesive bandage (such as Vet-Wrap)
• Soap
• Sterile gauze dressings
• Syringe
• Towel
• Tweezers
• Veterinarian and emergency clinic numbers and poison control center number

For much more information about taking care of a sick Shepherd, see Chapter Taking Care of a Sick Shepherd.

by D. Caroline Coile, PhD