Axolotl Aquarium

Setting up Your Axolotl Tank  

At any rate a 15-to 20-gallon fish tank is suggested for axolotls. Ensure the tank has a protected top, as it's normal for these creatures to attempt to leap out of their nook. A land zone is superfluous in the tank for these completely amphibian creatures. At the very least, the water profundity ought to be somewhat more than the length of your axolotl. Be that as it may, including additional profundity will help with water quality and give your creature more space to move.

Axolotls are relatively easy to care for and feel comfortable in a species-appropriate tank. Two to three ax o lotls should have at least 0.5 square metres ( 5 square feet ) of space available. For example, a 200-litre tank measuring 100 cm x 50 cm x 40 cm ( roughly 40 inches x 20 inches x 15 inches ) is great. The height of the tank is not too relevant; more important is the floor space of at least half a square metre ( at least five square feet ). Of course, the home may also be larger; the more space, the better! 

The axolotl's home should be angular - a rounded shape should be avoided, otherwise the animals will not be able to orientate themselves well. It should also be made of glass; plastic is rather unsuitable. The tank does not need a cover. It is even better if the tank is open, as these do not heat up as much as closed tanks. An open tank is also easier to handle when cleaning and feeding. If cats or similar are also kept at the same time, the tank can also be protected with a sturdy grid lid so that other animals are kept away from the axolotls. 

Get the tank in a cool room far from brilliant daylight with the water temperature somewhere in the range of 57 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit (14 and 20 degrees Celsius); don't permit it to get over 75 degrees Fahrenheit (24 degrees Celsius). No unique lighting is required for axolotls (in contrast to numerous reptiles). Actually, a dull concealing spot, for example, a vase laid on its side or an aquarium mansion, is frequently valued. 

A few proprietors select to leave the base of the tank exposed, however others accept this may pressure the axolotl on the off chance that it can't get a traction on the smooth base. In the event that rock is utilized on the base, it must be coarse rock that is greater than the axolotl's head. Fine rock may be ingested and cause a deterrent. 

Faucet water treated with an aquarium water conditioner that expels chlorine and chloramines is fine for axolotls. Never use refined water, and ensure the pH of the water stays somewhere in the range of 6.5 and 7.5. (You can discover a water test pack to check all things considered pet stores.) Most proprietors discover a sifted aquarium is simpler to keep up on the grounds that unfiltered water needs visit changing to evacuate squander. 

Axolotl care is a bit different than that of the fishbowl or aquarium fish you might be used to. We’ve put together a bookshelf that contains everything you feel necessity for to be aware about setting up an Axolotl container and caring for these amazing creatures. 

Axolotls are relatively easy to care for and are comfortable in an aquarium that is suitable for the species. Two or three axolotls should have at least 0.5 square meters of space available. For example, a 200-gallon aquarium measuring 100 cm x 50 cm x 40 cm (about 40 inches x 20 inches x 15 inches) is fine. The height of the aquarium is not too important; more important is the floor space of at least half a square meter (at least five square feet). Of course, the aquarium can also be larger; the more space, the better! 

The axolotl aquarium should be angular - a rounded shape should be avoided, otherwise the animals will not be able to orient themselves well. It should also be made of glass; plastic is rather unsuitable. The aquarium does not need a lid. It's even better if the aquarium is open, because it doesn't get as hot as closed tanks. An open aquarium is also easier to handle when cleaning and feeding. If you are also keeping cats or the like at the same time, the aquarium can also be protected with a sturdy grid lid so that other animals are kept away from the axolotl. 

Ten aquatic plants that are well suited to the axolotl aquarium: 

1. Elodea / Water Plague 

2. Microsorum pteropus 

3. Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana) 

4. Spathiphyllum 

5. Anubias 

6. Cabomba 

7. Ceratophyllum demersum 

8. Saururus 

9. Rorippa aquatica 

10. Echinodorus 

Excessive hygiene can do more harm than good. Although excess nitrate and other germs should be removed during cleaning, the bottom and filter should not be cleaned too meticulously. More on this later! 

The filter should ideally be an external filter suitable for the size of the aquarium. Plastic internal filters are less suitable. The pipe should be just below the water surface so that the surface moves, but axolotls don't pay too much attention to this - they don't like currents, preferring still or stagnant water. Starter bacteria are not necessary. The important bacteria form during the cycling phase, and a balance is achieved in the aquarium naturally. However, a bottom filter is also possible. 

In addition, it is advisable to place the aquarium on a stable surface. It should be easy for people to reach so that cleaning and water changes can be done comfortably. The furniture on which the aquarium is to stand should be able to support a load of at least 200 kilograms (at least 440 pounds). 

The Axolotls should have a few hiding places available. These should of course be disinfected in advance - as should all accessories - so that no pathogens are introduced into the house. Axolotls also use plants to hide, but some caves etc. should be available. At least one hiding place per axolotl should be provided so that axolotls do not fight over hiding places. Wood is not suitable. Coconut caves are popular because of their appearance, but they are also not suitable. Accessories should be made of stone or clay. It is a good idea to bake them in the oven before use to kill pathogens. Ideally, baking accessories should be baked at 100°C for about one to two hours. Pipes and caves are usually especially popular. 

Cycling Your Fishbowl or aquarium 

Fill up your fishbowl or aquarium and turn on equipment as well as the strainer and heater. If you want, you is able as well put all decorations (discussed below) in their respective areas. After this it’s period to start the cycle! 

Cycling your fishbowl or aquarium means you provide it period to accumulate beneficial bacteria in the strainer and substratum. These bacteria are the just thing making the container safe for your future Axolotls, so it pays to put few effort into this. 

To cycle an fishbowl or aquarium, you kickstart the process by adding ammonia. We сhoose applying unscented household ammonia as it’s not hard to dose and doesn’t make a mess. 

Water  

Most axolotl breeders agree that water temperature is probably the most important criterion for good maintenance. As mentioned above, axolotls need fresh, oxygen-rich water. Clean, high quality tap water is usually sufficient. Fertilizer and starter bacteria are not necessary. Water conditioners can also be dispensed with. 

The optimal water temperature is between about 10°C and 20°C (50°F to 68°F). In an emergency, the temperature can go as low as 72°F (22°C), but this should be a big exception. If the water temperature is too high, axolotls feel extremely stressed and are more susceptible to disease. Especially in the summer months, temperature can become an issue. If the temperature is too high, the risk of fungal diseases is also greatly increased. However, if the temperature drops too low and is below 10°C (less than 50°F), the axolotl's metabolism is slowed, and this can be very hard on digestion. 

To keep the water temperature within the optimal limits (6-20°), choose a room that is not subject to overheating in summer and a location away from the heater. It is also important not to expose the aquarium to direct sunlight (window) in order not to increase the temperature rise and to prevent the proliferation of algae on the walls. Unlike temperate zone amphibians, the axolotl does not necessarily need an annual temperature cycle. It can reproduce without having undergone a cold period. It is at its best at a water temperature close to 15°. 

In most countries it is therefore inevitable to use a cooling fan or cooling unit. 

For many people, a cooling unit is the best alternative. These keep the temperature consistently cool, even if the owner is not home for a few days. Purchase costs are usually quite high, but the purchase pays for itself in almost every case. If axolotls have to live in countries that get quite hot or even scorching in the summer, this type of cooling is absolutely necessary - anything else would not be appropriate for the animal and another pet might be more suitable. 

When the aquarium is first filled with water, bacteria should settle in the water filter and on the bottom. These are important for the metabolic cycle and are not harmful. The "waste" that accumulates - i.e. axolotl droppings and dead plant remains - is first converted to ammonium, ammonia and then to nitrite and nitrate. How long the conversion of nitrite to nitrate takes depends on several factors; for example, how many (real!) plants are in the aquarium. At best, the plants should be robust. 

If you live in a region with high-quality tap water, this is perfectly fine as tank water. The quality of tap water varies from country to country - and there are also sometimes big regional differences. If in doubt, the water can first be tested for chlorine, heavy metals and the like. Chlorine is extremely harmful to axolotls and other aquatic life. 

Other very important factors are nitrite, nitrate and ammonia. Ammonia or ammonium is formed in the tank water by food residues, dead plant parts etc. Then nitrite is formed from this, which in turn forms nitrate. How long the transformation takes often varies and depends on the conditions and the equipment of the tank. 

The ammonia level (NH3) should be less than 0.2 mg per litre ( 0.2 ppm ). 

The nitrate level (NO3) should be a maximum of 25 mg per litre ( 25 ppm ). Above a value of 40 mg per litre ( 40 ppm ) it becomes toxic! 

The nitrite level (NO2) should always be zero. A very low value is OK at times but should never exceed 0.5 mg per litre ( 0.5 ppm ) (toxic!). If the value does rise above this, the animals should first be moved into food-safe plastic boxes with cold water until the value has been lowered again. 

Some axolotls occasionally try to jump out of the tank. If you have an open tank, the gap between the water surface and the edge of the tank should be at least ten centimetres ( at least four inches ) so that the animals cannot jump out. Otherwise, of course, a cover made of solid wire can help. 

Once you have cleaned the tank, washed the substrate and added the tank water, the tank is not yet ready for the axolotl. First of all, there is what is known as a cycling phase. 

After about one day, the cold-water plants can be added. After that, however, the values have to settle down before the axolotls can move in. This cycling phase can last up to eight weeks. It always depends on the water values, which should be tested regularly until a healthy and species-appropriate bacterial fauna has been established. When the water values have settled in the range described above, the animals can move into their new home. 

During this phase, it may happen that the plants weaken somewhat or even die off partially, as the nutrient balance in the tank is not yet optimal. This is not a problem. If necessary, the plants can be replaced or supplemented after the cycling phase has been completed. 

Opinions are also divided on the duration of the cycling phase. Some breeders say four weeks is enough, others recommend at least six to eight weeks. In case of doubt, it is of course better to let the phase run too long than too short, to be sure that the water quality is good enough and the balance has settled down. 

When the nitrite peak occurs is difficult to predict and very dependent on the individual conditions in the tank. In most cases, however, the peak occurs between the second and the sixth week of the cycling phase. It usually lasts about a week. 

Water hardness should be about 21 °fH to 35 °fH (210 ppm to 350 ppm). It should not fall below 14 °fH (140 ppm). 

Carbonate hardness (alkalinity) should be above 8 °fH (90 ppm). It is ideal between 8 °fH and 17 °fH (90 ppm and 180 ppm). 

The pH value should be between 7 and 8; a pH value between 6.5 and 6.9 is also fine. In general, most breeders recommend a pH value between 7.0 and 7.5. 

 Some axolotls occasionally try to jump out of the aquarium. If you have an open aquarium, the space between the water surface and the edge of the aquarium should be at least ten centimeters so that the animals cannot jump out. Otherwise, of course, a lid made of solid wire can help. 

The water level should be at least twenty to thirty centimeters (at least eight to twelve inches). It also depends on how big the aquarium is in general. Each axolotl should have at least 60-100 gallons of water available (at least 16-26 gallons per axolotl). The more water there is in the aquarium, the better the biological and bacterial balance. It is therefore better to let in too much water than too little. However, it is advisable-regardless of whether you have a lid or not-to leave an air space of about ten inches, because axolotls like to swim on the surface and put their little heads out of the water. 

After cleaning the aquarium, washing the substrate and adding water, the aquarium is not yet ready for axolotls. First, there is what is known as the cycling phase. 

After a day or so, you can add the cold water plants. After that, however, the values must stabilize before the axolotls can move in. This cycling phase can last up to eight weeks. It always depends on the water values, which must be checked regularly until a healthy bacterial fauna suitable for the species has been established. When the water values have stabilized in the range described above, the animals can move to their new home. 

During this phase, it may happen that the plants weaken a bit or even partially die, because the nutrient balance in the aquarium is not yet optimal. This is not a problem. If necessary, plants can be replaced or supplemented after the cycling phase has been completed. 

Opinions are also divided on the length of the cycling phase. Some breeders say four weeks is sufficient, others recommend at least six to eight weeks. When in doubt, it is obviously better to make the phase last too long than too short, to be sure that the water quality is good enough and the balance has stabilized. The water filter should also already be running during this phase. Plants should have already moved into their new home, as they are essential to the water values and balance to be achieved. 

It is advisable to check the water values regularly from the second week onwards. The nitrite value will rise sharply and reach a so-called peak. As explained before, the nitrite value should always be around zero. In the cycling phase, however, it can increase abruptly and even reach a value of 1. This is then the peak. When the nitrite value has reached zero again, the axolotls can move to their new home. If you want to accelerate the reduction of the nitrite value, you can add small amounts of the following to the aquarium water. 

Aquarium bottom  

The aquarium bottom is a very common topic of discussion in the axolotl community. Unfortunately, it often happens that axolotls swallow small or large stones on the bottom because they are "sucking snappers". Whether this is harmful depends on the size and number of objects swallowed. Clogging can occur, sometimes unfortunately fatal. 

In Germany, clear pebbles are recommended as substrate. Pebbles should not be artificially colored. Black gravel and/or plastic-covered gravel should be avoided in particular, as it is toxic to axolotls if swallowed and can also poison the water. In addition, many black stones also emit iron. A size of one millimeter to three millimeters is the standard in Germany. The edges should not be sharp but rounded. Larger stones can lead to blockages and often cannot be ejected. 

However, in English-speaking countries such as the United States, the use of pebbles is not recommended. It is true that sometimes axolotls will swallow small stones. If they are small enough, axolotls will usually defecate them. However, there is indeed a risk of constipation. 

A good alternative is to use sand as a substrate. Ingestion of sand is usually considered harmless because the sand is very small and fine. 

There are many axolotl owners who do not use substrate at all, especially in the United States. This can be problematic because the axolotl would have a better grip when walking if there is substrate. Also, a film of bacteria can form on the bare bottom and the stability/natural balance in the aquarium can be compromised. 

If you use the substrate, it should be rinsed before use, e.g. in the shower with the help of a sieve. If the substrate has not been cleaned, the aquarium water may become cloudy. When letting the water in, make sure that the substrate is not agitated (too much), but remains nice and even. 

Once you have acquired an adequate sized container, you need to set it up and operate it in such a way as to protect its resident(s) from the dangers that threaten them: dirty water, domestic accidents and heat. 

Domestic accidents include accidental ingestion of rocks, pieces of wood, and the introduction of toxic products into the aquarium: pesticides, fertilizers, heavy metals. 

We will see in what follows that axolotl aquarium keeping, contrary to the race for technology that is practiced in saltwater aquarium keeping or in certain sectors of terrarium keeping, is an economical, simple and low energy consuming practice. This has contributed to the success of this animal in the laboratory. 

The axolotl is a completely aquatic animal. Its habitat is an ordinary aquarium. Those who come from the aquarium world are in familiar territory, those who come from the terrarium world have to adapt their experience a bit. What follows is valid for adult or sub-adult animals, beyond about 15 cm, which corresponds to about one year of age. If the living conditions described below can be reproduced outdoors, a seasonal stay in a pond or outdoor tank is possible as long as the water temperature remains between 6° and 20° and as long as the animal is given sufficient food. A temperature lower than 2°C is lethal. 

Choice and arrangement of the aquarium  

If there is no risk of escape, a normal cover is sufficient. As the axolotl lives mostly on the ground, the surface of its habitat is more important than the volume of water. It is important to keep in mind that they come up to the surface to breathe - access to air must always be possible - and that they like clean and relatively oxygenated water. Therefore, excessive water height is more harmful than useful: in the absence of mixing, the water column tends to "settle" into different layers according to temperature and oxygenation level. Thirty to forty cm of water height is more than enough. A tank that is longer and wider than it is high is the best solution. Indifferent to its fellow creatures, the axolotl can be kept in isolation. It is even a way of controlling and stimulating reproduction to keep the animals separate and only bring them together to lay eggs. This also ensures that each animal receives an adequate food ration. In any case, only animals of the same size should be kept together, and a special aquarium should be set aside for them, with no fish, no amphibians of other species, and no crustaceans except for small freshwater snails for cleaning. Fish are prey, and, above all, they disturb and hurt the axolotls by attacking their gills. For a single animal, provided that regular water changes are made (see below), an aquarium of about 60 cm long and with a capacity of 50 to 60 liters is a minimum. In a 80-100 liter tank, you can put two, and so on, for each additional 50 liters of axolotl. 

If simple rules are followed, the axolotl, when properly housed and treated, is an interesting, amusing and expressive animal, which can live for many years and reach a relatively respectable size of about 30 cm and a weight of more than 300 g. Its longevity is usually 10 to 15 years, and can reach 25 years. 

The decor and the floor  

It is advisable to avoid putting in the tank objects that the axolotl can swallow in its reflex movement of taking food, a violent and blind sucking effect. This is particularly the case with gravel. Any object of less than 3 cm can be "swallowed" by the animal with possibly fatal consequences. A layer of gravel or pebbles also creates gaps where food will sink, then decompose out of the animal's reach and contaminate the water. Therefore, fine sand, well rinsed, or a bare floor, without substrate, is preferable, by placing the aquarium on a dark colored background. If fine sand is used, a layer of a few mm thick is sufficient. A thicker sandy soil tends to harden or become the site of harmful fermentations. On this bare or sandy soil, we install some isolated decorative elements in the form of large roots (roots known as bog roots used in aquariums, which are soaked and left to soak in clean water beforehand) and large stones without sharp edges which can hurt the axolotl. We should also avoid creating cavities where the animal can get stuck and stacking elements that can collapse spontaneously or under the effect of the axolotl's movements. However, the animal appreciates being able to hide and half pots of flowers made of earth can be given as hiding places, which do not interfere with cleaning operations and are safe. 

These decorative elements contribute to the aesthetics of the tank and enrich the environment of the animals, offering them the possibility to break the visual contact between them. 

A bare floor also makes it possible to see the waste, excrement etc... that is siphoned off during water changes to clean the tank. In a classical aquarium, once it is balanced, a porous soil shelters an abundant and diversified fauna of organisms, especially bacteria, which participates in an essential way in the natural and spontaneous purification of the tank by decomposing and recycling the waste. This is no longer the case in the absence of a substrate with a bare glass bottom or a thin layer of sand. The introduction of decorative elements provides additional surfaces for the bacterial films to attach to, which compensates to some extent for the loss of the soil as a natural filter. 

Lighting  

There is however an imperative condition for the success of the plants: they must benefit from sufficient lighting with a light quality as close as possible to the solar spectrum. In practice, this means equipping the axolotl tank with an artificial lighting gallery, if possible without glass or walls between the water and the lighting source (the electrical part of the gallery must be watertight). However, the installation of a lighting system must be combined with another requirement of the axolotl tank, because the lighting can be a source of heat. 

Axolotls don’t appreciate bright light at all and powerful lamps is able stress them out. Instead, find something that allows you to identify your Axies beyond scaring them into hiding all day. 

Incidentally, artificial lighting provides the animals with a necessary day-night cycle and possibly a seasonal cycle that may influence reproduction by varying the lighting duration from 6-8 hours to 10-12 hours depending on the season. Use a timer to turn on automatically according to the desired duration. 

Led lights do not give off heat, they have a long life and are the most economical in terms of electricity for a given light output, but Led aquarium galleries are still very expensive to purchase and the effect of ordinary LED light on plants is still controversial. 

Metal halide spotlights and HQI halogens, which are often used for reptile terrariums, provide the desired light quality, but they should be avoided at all costs, as they are the most electricity-hungry lamps and above all the ones that give off the most heat. 

In short, the best solution seems to us to consist of a classic aquarium lighting tube, a horticultural "neon" coupled with a ballast, in a gallery well insulated from humidity, the least complicated, the least expensive, the equivalent of the old "Grolux" daylight tube of the Sylvania brand. Let's hope that we will still find for a long time these fifty years old materials and the galleries with tight ends which allow to use them in a relatively humid atmosphere! These tubes exist in two diameters, T8 (Ø26 mm) and T5 (Ø16 mm). Their lighting power and power consumption depend on their length. The T5 are known to heat less, they are more powerful for the same length, so the advantage is not decisive when you do not want to intensify the lighting, they consume less and last longer, they are less standard. The T8 have a real efficiency time much higher than that indicated, as long as they do not "snap". These tubes have a power proportional to their length. 

T8: 45 cm, 15 Watt - 60 cm, 18 W - 75 cm, 25 W - 90 cm, 30 W etc ... 

T5: 43,8 cm, 24 W - 55 cm, 35 W - 59 cm, 39 W - 785 cm, 54 W etc ... 

A single tube adapted to the length of the tank (or shorter) provides sufficient light for most ordinary plants, especially for surface plants located 10 or 20 cm below the tube. The heating effect is limited, and can even be appreciated by the animals by creating a slightly warmer zone on the surface that participates in the day-night cycle. Nevertheless, it is important to open the gallery to evacuate the excess heat when the ambient temperature reaches 20°C - especially for small tanks - and to cut off the lighting completely when the ambient temperature rises above that. Above 22-23°, you should try to cool the water by submerging or floating containers or coolers full of ice and stop feeding the animal. As long as the temperature rise is gradual, water at 25° will not immediately kill the axolotl. At these temperatures, the axolotl does not have enough oxygen dissolved in the water and resorts more to air breathing. It starts to suffer from metabolic disorders and becomes very vulnerable to diseases, especially since the bacterial load of the environment increases with temperature. 

Jack Nelson