Axolotls are carnivorous. Axolotls locate food by smell, and will "snap" at any potential meal, sucking t h e food into their stomachs with strong, vacuum force. Cool!
However, they do also have small teeth which can be used to grasp food before swallowing it completely.
Feeding the axolotl
In principle, the capture of food is a reflex stimulated by the detection of the prey's movement. After a certain age, after the different larval stages, it is nevertheless possible to accustom the animal to take inert foods provided that they are recognizable by taste or smell and that their size interests the animal. Food that is too small is disdained. This said, the axolotl is not fussy: it accepts live, thawed, industrial foods which it prefers to take on the bottom.
Some amateurs avoid marine foods (thawed pieces of sea fish, such as smelts, mussels, shrimps or pieces of pink shrimps, krill etc...) because they are likely to contain a significant amount of iodine. Iodine interferes with the thyroid gland and we have seen that the particular functioning of this one was responsible for the neoteny of the axolotl. We personally do not see any inconvenience in distributing mussel mantle to adult axolotls, the fleshy part located on both sides of the mussel which is easily detached after boiling a pre-cooked frozen mussel which is left to soak a little to rinse it. These pieces are about the right size for an adult axolotl, with two pieces of mantle per meal. Frozen or raw sea fish may contain a substance (thiaminase) that is detrimental to the metabolism of vitamins over time. Thawed fillet pieces of freshwater fish (trout) are preferable. In general we share a widespread prevention against small pieces of beef (cooked or raw) which are poorly digested by amphibians and may contain thyroid remnants. If necessary, beef heart, without any trace of blood, and poultry liver, occasionally and in small quantities, for example to "restock" a slimmed down animal, are preferred.
This leads to a preference for live foods and commercial foods.
Among the commercial feeds, there are special "pellets" (sticks) for axolotls. They are essential during the growth of the larvae, but their composition is often too much vegetable matter (spirulina) and it is difficult to find pellets big enough to interest adult axolotls. Pellets for bottom fish (fresh water) can be tempted, provided they are not predominantly vegetal either. Floating chaff-type foods should be avoided. No more dry food should be fed than the animals can consume in 5 minutes without leaving anything behind.
Live food should be clean - from unpolluted environments - and sink to the bottom. Most earthworms (like earthworms, eisenia, eiseniella, dendrob(a)ena etc...) are appreciated. They are easy to find in fish stores, in the aquarium trade or in home compost. They keep well in the refrigerator's vegetable bin. One or two worms make a meal for an adult axolotl.
Frozen fish food (bloodworms) are not very interesting, and even risky: some aquatic parasites can survive freezing, and the worms can come from soiled environments (sewage ponds). Mealworms are accepted, although they are difficult to digest because of their chitinous exoskeleton. Freshly molted worms, recognizable by their white color, are preferred. Sowbugs are small, difficult to detect, but can be appreciated from time to time for the calcium phosphate and limestone they contain in their shells.
In general, a certain diversity in the food offered must be observed to avoid nutritional deficiencies. An alternative food will be proposed every two or three weeks.
Axolotls are nocturnal hunters who lie in wait. They usually remain in one place and wait there for their prey. They do not actively search for food but wait for it at a fixed point and are therefore often very patient. Their food includes almost everything they can overpower, for example insects and their larvae, worms, small fish and their eggs and small crustaceans. This can also be offered to a domesticated axolotl relatively easily and without much effort.
Axolotls either catch their prey as it swims by or they pick up their food from the bottom.
Axolotls are carnivores (meat eaters). They cannot digest plant food efficiently and are therefore dependent on animal food. This is also the case, for example, with the generally popular domestic cat. It is best to offer the axolotls fresh food: small pieces of fish, worms (e.g., earthworms such as giant red worms/Dendrobena), small snails, small crustaceans and the like. Long worms are best cut up once before feeding.
However, it is not recommended to collect worms and other animals outside. It is possible for animals from the wild to introduce pathogens into the tank!
In addition, pellets are offered on the market which have a high vegetable content. As axolotls are strict carnivores, these should not be used. Axolotls cannot utilise these vegetable components anyway. Therefore, pellets should consist of at least 60% animal protein!
It is also possible to feed frozen fish from the supermarket. Of course, the frozen fish should not be seasoned. It should also not have any bones. If bones are present, they must be removed before feeding. Fish should not be fed in too large pieces - therefore it should be cut into bite-sized pieces beforehand. For example, the pieces of fish can be 1 cm x 3 cm (for example 0.4 inches x 1.2 inches). Ideally, each axolotl should be fed five to six pieces per feeding. If worms, small crustaceans, pellets or small snails are also fed, the quantities should be adjusted individually.
Suitable fish species include trout, pike, pikeperch, eel, sturgeon, carp or perch. If possible, however, freshwater fish should be preferred in order to avoid the administration of iodine.
The meat of mammals such as chicken should not be fed. On the one hand, this is unnatural, as axolotls do not feed on chicken or similar meat in nature. Secondly, this type of meat is more difficult for axolotls to digest. Seaweed is also not suitable, as it naturally contains a high proportion of iodine. Iodine could cause axolotls to go into metamorphosis, which must be prevented.
Food remains can be easily removed with the help of food tongs.
Pellets, industrial dried food
Fresh food is the best choice for feeding axolotls, as this is what they naturally feed on in the wild. Frozen food can partly replace fresh food or at least complement it well. Pellets or industrially produced dry food are not usually necessary, as such food does not correspond to the natural diet of axolotls. However, there are cases in which pellets must be used or in which pellets can be offered as a supplement.
If you want to feed pellets, pay close attention to the composition of the ingredients. The qualitative differences between the individual products are sometimes huge. There are pellets on the market that contain only 20-30% fish. These are not at all suitable for an axolotl, as the axolotl is a carnivore. For example, there are pellets on the market with a raw protein content of over 50% - these are well suited as supplementary food.
Unhealthy additives should also not be found in the pellets. Many industrial animal feeds, for example, are enriched with "vegetable by-products" to keep costs down. This is a nicer word for "waste". Vegetable by-products are generated during the production of other products. To prevent them from going to waste, they are added to animal feed, for example. This is also often the case with rodent food. The same applies to "animal by-products".
Vegetable by-products offer no added value for axolotls. They are neither healthy nor species-appropriate, as axolotls are of course not herbivores or omnivores. These ingredients are excreted again anyway without being used.
Nevertheless, it must be mentioned that pellets entirely without any plant ingredients are not offered at this time. A small component of plant ingredients is necessary to hold the individual components of the pellets together, as they act like a "glue".
These ingredients are small individual particles that slowly dissolve in the water if the pellets are not eaten by the axolotls. If pellets are offered, they must be eaten quickly by the animals, otherwise there is a risk of extreme contamination of the aquarium water. If individual pellets are not eaten, they should be removed from the aquarium within an hour.
Pellets should never be the sole food of the axolotl, as this would simply be too one-sided and unhealthy. If pellets are used, they should make up a maximum of one fifth or one quarter of the total food quantity. Otherwise, there is a risk of nutrient deficiency in the animals. The animal components of the pellets should make up at least 45%.
Food from Nature – Yes or No?
There are some axolotl keepers who look for food for their animals in the wild. This primarily involves worms such as earthworms.
Whether this is recommendable is highly controversial. I personally do not recommend it. On the one hand, axolotls don't eat very much and not very often - so it actually makes little or no difference to your finances whether you collect food for the axolotls in the wild or not. The financial aspects are negligible, also because worms can be grown / bred quite easily at home. Many axolotl keepers breed their own earthworms in a box or bucket, for example. This minimises the risk of pathogens or harmful substances.
In addition, collected food from the wild offers no more value compared to purchased or home-bred fresh worms. The little animals from the wild are not better or more nutritious than the purchased feed, as long as they are alive / fresh.
Live food can introduce parasites and other pathogens into the axolotl's aquarium. With a carnivorous animal like the axolotl, the risk of this is always higher than with an herbivorous animal like guinea pigs, rabbits, etc. - because parasites often use worms and insects as intermediate hosts on which they nest for a while. If food containing pathogens is introduced into the axolotl aquarium, these pathogens and parasites will quite quickly pass on to the axolotl group and use them as hosts.
Of course, this is also possible if the food is bought or home-bred. As a rule, such a risk cannot be ruled out. However, the risk is higher if the food is collected in the wild.
Other toxins could also be accidentally introduced into the aquarium if the feed is obtained from the wild. Here, of course, it depends in which areas and on which land is collected. Pesticides, rat poisons and other harmful substances are a real risk that can be avoided.
Finally, some precautions should be observed when distributing food.
Do not overfeed Obesity, with fatal consequences, threatens amphibians and aquarium fish. In addition, uneaten food and excess excrement are pollution factors. One or two pieces of mussel mantle, one or two earthworms, every two or three days are enough food for an adult axolotl. Feeding should be stopped when the temperature is low or during hot spells. It is also preferable to let the adult axolotls fast for one or two weeks (or even more) rather than to see them force-feed by an inexperienced hand. You can also anticipate an absence by increasing the frequency of meals a little before it.
The axolotl is a bit laborious in its search for food. When several animals live together, there is always the possibility that some do not arrive in time, that some eat too much and others do not.
In the wild, axolotls feed on snails, worms, shellfish, little fish, and little creatures of land and water. In bondage, they can be taken care of an assortment of saline solution shrimp, little segments of meat or liver, night crawlers, bloodworms, tubifex worms, other solidified fish nourishments, and business fish pellets. Try not to take care of any worms or fish you got yourself, as they can convey parasites. All in all, no nutrient or mineral enhancements are fundamental.
Counsel your veterinarian with respect to the measure of food to offer, just as how frequently to take care of your axolotl, as this differs relying upon age and size. When all is said in done, numerous grown-ups take a few feedings for each week. Probably the best strategy to take care of is by holding the food in round-nosed forceps in the tank close to the creature. You additionally can just drop the food in the water as near the axolotl as could be expected under the circumstances. In the event that your axolotl isn't keen on eating much during the day, have a go at taking care of it at night when it's regularly more dynamic. Expel any uneaten food from the tank each day to keep the water clean.
Feeding Frequency
Most axolotls do not need to be fed daily; the larger the animal gets, the less often it needs food. Therefore, it is usually no problem to go away for the weekend and leave the animals alone for a few days. However, in the case of a longer absence, holiday care should be organised.
Adult axolotls can even fast for about ten days without suffering any damage. However, with a longer fasting period, there is a risk that axolotls will turn on each other and, in a worst-case scenario, injure or mutilate each other.
The feeding rhythm can be very individual, so always keep a close eye on the animals. If an axolotl gains a lot of weight, the time between two feedings should be extended. Overfeeding the animals should be taken very seriously and can often even lead to death. Domesticated axolotls often do not select according to their natural instinct but eat whatever the owner makes available to them. Obesity can lead to diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, fatty liver and other feeding-related diseases.
As a general rule of thumb ...
... with a body size of up to 12 centimetres (up to 4.7 inches), axolotls should be fed every day.
... with a body size of up to about 16 centimetres (up to about 6.3 inches), they can be fed every two days.
... with a body size of up to about 18 centimetres (up to about 7 inches), they can be fed every three days.
... with a body size of more than 18 centimetres (more than 7 inches), they can be fed once or twice a week - most owners feed their adult animals only once a week.
To reiterate: These are only guidelines. The animals should always be closely observed to determine whether a normal body weight is maintained or whether the animal may be slowly tending towards obesity (fatty liver and other organs!). Accordingly, the fasting period can be extended or shortened.
Fasting periods of one to two weeks are usually considered problem-free (for adult axolotls). Therefore, the owners can go away for the weekend or take a short holiday without necessarily having someone come home to feed the animals. When the fasting phase is too long is quite controversial in the axolotl community. However, the general principle is that two weeks without food should not be exceeded, as otherwise the animals could start attacking each other and maiming or injuring themselves. If you are going on a two-or three-week holiday, it is a good idea to have someone come home once or twice during this time to feed the animals. After all, this does not take up a lot of time.
The Digestive Tract of the Axolotl
Axolotls have a rather flat and rounded head. When the mouth is closed, it might appear quite small - but appearances are deceptive, because the mouth can be opened wide and is quite big.
The mouths of axolotls are underslung (inferior). The underslung mouth is typical for animals that mainly look for their prey at the bottom of the water and usually stay there. With an underslung mouth, the lower jaw is shorter than the upper jaw and the opening of the mouth thus points downwards.
When not feeding, the axolotl's mouth is closed. However, if the axolotl keeps its mouth permanently open, something is usually wrong. The axolotl may have ingested too large a chunk of food, its stomach may be overloaded, or it may be infested with parasites such as nematodes. If the mouth is permanently open, the cause should definitely be identified.
As axolotls are pure carnivores, their digestive tract is dependent on animal food. Only this type of food can be completely digested and utilised by the animal. Vegetable food should therefore be avoided. This offers the axolotl no added value and is simply excreted without being utilised.
Axolotls can vomit. Since domesticated axolotls do not regulate their food intake themselves but eat almost everything that is offered to them by humans, the stomach can become overloaded, causing vomiting. Feeding too quickly or too frequently can also cause vomiting. In this case, the amount of food should be reduced and the intervals between two feedings can be extended.
If an axolotl vomits, this can also be due to spoiled food. In any case, it should be checked whether the food is still fresh or, if in doubt, it should be disposed of.
A bacterial disease or parasite infestation can also trigger vomiting. If the axolotl has not ingested any spoiled food and the amount of food was definitely not too large, it should be examined whether the axolotl is possibly ill.
In addition, axolotls can also fall ill with diarrhoea, their faeces can be covered with mucus or blood can be found in the faeces. Such cases are almost always due to diseases such as infections, parasites, fungal diseases and the like. But swallowing stones can also cause blood in the faeces and, of course, constipation.
How often axolotls defecate depends mainly on their age. Young ones need food much more often than adult axolotls, so the young also defecate more frequently. It is normal for very young axolotls (until they are about ten centimetres (four inches) big) to defecate every day. However, these animals are also fed daily. This is no longer the case with adult axolotls. Since adult axolotls eat less frequently, it is normal for them to defecate only about once or twice a week.
Occasionally, axolotls may swallow too much air. This happens quite often, especially with young axolotls. They then float close to the water surface and usually paddle around helplessly. This happens because there is too much air in the digestive tract and is usually caused by the axolotl being too greedy when taking in food and accidentally taking in too much air. Usually, this condition normalises itself and the axolotl lets the excess air escape. However, if it does not manage to do this, the axolotl may need to be examined by a specialist vet who has experience with amphibians. Normally this is quite harmless and will quickly disappear. However, if it happens frequently, it should be checked whether the animal is getting enough food and whether the food is easily accessible.
The digestive tract of an axolotl is that of a carnivore. Therefore, the intestine only absorbs and utilises nutrients from animal food. Vegetable food components are not or hardly utilised. They pass through the intestine but are largely excreted unused. A permanent feeding of plant food can also cause the intestine of an axolotl to become diseased, as it is simply not designed to have to process food other than animal food.
Axolotls have a cloaca - this is the common outlet of both the intestine and urinary bladder and the genital organ. Male axolotls have a larger cloaca than females. The cloaca of a male appears swollen (even if it is not actually swollen) and can therefore be easily identified with the naked eye.
The cloaca is part of the animal's rectum; not only excrement is excreted here, but also the sperm of the males and the eggs of the females.
Natural Foraging
Axolotls are nocturnal lurking hunters. Lurking hunters include carnivorous animals, which usually do not actively hunt and pursue their prey but remain in a certain place and wait there (patiently) for their prey. When the prey - for example, a small fish - swims past the axolotl, it attacks and grabs the prey animal.
To do this, the axolotl makes use of its electro and pressure receptors. For example, it has ampullary organs (ampullary receptors) and uses the lateral line system. This enables the axolotl to recognise or locate its prey.
When an animal moves in the water, this creates pressure fluctuations. The axolotl can perceive these with the help of its lateral line system.
Ampullary organs, on the other hand, perceive electro impulses that are generated by muscle activity. This also represents a stimulus for the axolotl and causes it to feed.
Axolotls are farsighted and therefore do not rely on their sense of sight when searching for food, but on the triggered stimuli described above to perceive food and to snatch it. Furthermore, the sense of smell is well developed and supports the animals in their search for food - especially when foraging on the ground.
Axolotls exercise a great deal of patience when lurking and sometimes remain in the same spot for hours in the wild. While a prey animal in an “active hunt” (chase) is aware that it is being pursued and accordingly tries to flee, the prey of the lurking hunters is usually surprised and does not expect an attack. Accordingly, lurking hunters have to expend much less energy than chasers, but of course they need a lot of patience and attention. Since axolotls need comparatively little food, this type of hunting is ideal for them.
They are “suction snappers”. This means that they suck in their food suddenly and unexpectedly before the prey can flee. However, this is also practised when the prey is already dead or simply lying still.
However, axolotls do not only wait for prey to swim by, but also often collect their food from the bottom of the water. In the process, it can happen that the animals also suck in some substrate and this gets into their digestive tract. For this reason, stones that are too large should not be used as substrate. In some countries, natural, rounded pebbles of a maximum size of three millimetres are used, in other countries, substrate is not used at all.
Fine sand is a good compromise, because it is better for the locomotion of the axolotl and for the bacterial balance in the aquarium if the bottom is covered. However, fine sand grains are of course very small, so that occasional swallowing does not pose a danger and does not cause blockages, as could be the case with larger stones.
Jack Nelson
0 comments:
Post a Comment