On the Tail of a New Carpet Shark (Um, Ferret)

 

In This Chapter

• Studying the basics of ferret shopping
• Deciding between a baby or an older fuzzy
• Choosing a male or female ferret
• Examining the differences between altered and whole fuzzies
• Filling your home with multiple furballs
• Picking from the variety of pet sellers you can find

Most people who want a ferret as a new family member have an image of what the perfect ferret is. Friendly, sweet, loving, playful, adventurous — those are just a few of the characteristics ferret lovers dream about. But when it actually comes down to choosing a ferret for your home, friendly, sweet, and all the other adjectives get you only so far. You also need to think in terms of health, gender, and even age. And when you have all those characteristics figured out, you should consider whether you want to get more than one!

This chapter helps you choose the perfect ferret for your home and your family. I explain what the normal and ideal traits are and warn about some characteristics to avoid. Some sections talk about the differences in genders and ages. You may be surprised by what you discover in this chapter! When you have an idea of what type of ferret you’re looking for, you can start to look in the right places to seek out your dream fuzzball. You have several options to consider, all with pros and cons, and I cover them later in the chapter.

Ferret Shopping 101

If you’re new to ferret ownership (welcome to the club!), it’s important to choose a healthy ferret with a pleasant personality to bring into your home. Only someone more experienced in ferret care should have the confidence to care for a ferret that needs special attention. The following list presents some tips to keep in mind when shopping for your new fuzzy friend:

• Her fur should be soft, shiny, and full. She should have no patches of missing fur. [1] Her eyes should be clear and bright. No discharge should be coming from the eyes, ears, or nose.
• Her underside should be clean and healthy looking. Look for signs of diarrhea or bloating, which can be evidence of parasites or illness.
• The ideal ferret is inquisitive when you approach; she doesn’t cower or run to a hiding place. She should be jumpy and playful.

Remember

Don’t view nipping in a young ferret as a warning sign. Nipping is normal for a youngster. However, you should avoid a ferret that bites aggressively out of fear. You should be able to recognize the difference. Problem ferrets hang on when they bite and draw blood.

• Color should be your last deciding factor because many coat colors and patterns have a tendency to change and lighten over time.

Many wonderful breeder ferrets, pet-store ferrets, and shelter ferrets need good homes. Some of these ferrets require special attention; most do not. For information on finding your perfect ferret, see the section “Where to Find Your Ferret” later in this chapter.

“But I felt so sorry for her...” I can’t tell you how many people bring animals to shelters, ferrets included, because they didn’t think long enough about their decisions to take on such a responsibility. I always ask people why they acquired their pets in the first place when they come to our shelter (I’m the curious type), and many say that they felt sorry for the animals. Getting a pet out of sympathy rarely leads to a win-win situation. Caring for an animal you know inside and out and have prepared for is difficult enough; taking on an animal that you know little about or that has underlying problems can lead to frustration, anger, and a sense of hopelessness.

Are You in the Market for a NeworUsedFerret?

The decision you make about how old you want your ferret to be should be based on your experience and lifestyle. Some people automatically think that they should start off with baby ferrets; they have many reasons, some of which just don’t make sense. The thought that you must begin with a baby so that she’ll bond with you doesn’t hold true in the ferret world. Most adult ferrets adapt well to change and will love you no matter how long you’ve had them. Other people like to use the “I want little Johnny and the ferret to grow up together” reasoning.

The fact is, both adult and baby ferrets make good pets. The following sections help you make your decision.

Starting off with a kit

Baby ferrets, or kits, are absolutely adorable and hard to resist. They’re delightfully bouncy and mischievous, with a seemingly endless supply of energy. Adults have their fair share of spunk, but kits are just a tad bit more energetic than their adult counterparts.

Tip

If you have small children, I recommend that a kit not be your first choice. If you’re alone or have only one or two other adults in your household, and you have a lot of extra attention to give, a kit may be just what you’re looking for.

If you don’t have small children, here are some things to know about kits before you purchase one:

• Because kits are more active and playful, they can be more demanding of your time. They’re also notoriously nippy while still in the learning and testing stage.

Remember

Biting isn’t cute and shouldn’t be encouraged through play. It can get out of hand and become a behavior issue if you don’t deal with it immediately. To find out how to deal with biting, see Chapter Dealing with the Behaviorally Challenged Ferret.

• You’ll need to train and socialize a kit. You’ll be the one who has to teach a kit what is and isn’t acceptable.
• You’ll need to make sure that a kit has all her baby shots. Medically speaking, a baby fuzzy should already have received her first distemper shot by the time she goes home with you. She may need up to four shots, depending on how old she is and what medicine she’s already received (see Chapter Setting Up Your Ferret’s Health Plan: Vets and First-Aid Kits for details).

Adopting an older ferret

Adult ferrets make wonderful pets. You don’t have to purchase a ferret as a baby to get her to bond with you. An adult ferret will love you and display all the charisma and energy you could hope for. Unfortunately, thousands of wonderful adult ferrets wait patiently in shelters for homes simply because people believe that older ferrets are damaged in some way. Some people even dare to think that the adults aren’t as cute as kits. I beg to differ! Almost all the ferrets I’ve owned have been hand-me-down adults. And each one, with a unique personality, melted my heart right away.

Families with smaller children, people looking for cuddlers, or even those of you who believe in rescuing before purchasing would make excellent homes for older ferrets. If this sounds like you and you’re thinking about adopting an older ferret, keep the following points in mind:

• Because the life span of a ferret is relatively short (averaging 6 to 8 years), you may have less time to spend with an older or adult ferret. This isn’t always the case, though. I’ve lost young ferrets to disease and had some of my older adoptees live years beyond the normal expectancy. The average life span is just something you may want to think about.
• Generally speaking, older ferrets seem to be more relaxed with themselves and wiser to their surroundings, but they’re still inquisitive and mischievous. Unless they fall ill, most adults are wildly amusing and playful. Some can get into just as much, if not more, trouble than their young counterparts! Adult ferrets just seem to have had the edge taken off.
• Adult ferrets can be more set in their ways. Behavior difficulties, if they exist, can be more challenging to correct. Some adult ferrets have been neglected or abused, so they may need a little more understanding and patience. On the other hand, adults that have been treated well (and even many neglected and abused ferrets) adapt well to new environments and have little or no difficulty bonding with their new humans.

Remember

The majority of older ferrets have had at least one other caretaker. Most are already trained to use the litter box (see Chapter Putting Your Ferret through Basic Training: Easy as 1-2-3?) and have been taught that nipping is unacceptable. However, adult ferrets that haven’t been properly socialized may bite out of fear. If you decide that an older ferret is right for your home, take the time to play and socialize with the ferrets you consider for adoption. It won’t take long to determine if any special needs exist, and then you must decide if you’re capable of handling those needs.

Should You Pre-Order Blue or Pink Bedding (Get a Boy or Girl)?

A decision you have to make when looking to adopt a ferret is whether you want a male or female. This should be a minor role in your decision, because health and personality are the number one factors!

Jagon Alert

Females are called either jills (unspayed) or sprites (spayed). Males are called either hobs (unneutered) or gibs (neutered).

Females typically are smaller and daintier than males. As boy ferrets mature, they tend to become more cuddly and couch-potato-ish. Females tend to remain more squirmish, as though they’d rather be anywhere else than in your loving grasp. I hate to hold fast to this stereotype, however, because I’ve had some females that were quite the opposite. Sometimes, all it takes to get a ferret — particularly a girl — to settle down is a bit of human intervention, such as rubbing her ear or another “grooming” gesture (see Chapter Cleaning Time: Not All Ferret Fun and Games).

Remember

Unless they’re very sick or old, all ferrets are amusing bundles of energy with a propensity to please and make trouble, regardless of gender.

Pitting Altered versus Whole Furballs

Most ferrets that enter the pet trade come from mass ferret producers, so more than likely your ferret will already be neutered or spayed, negating a choice on your part. Sometimes the only way to know for sure is by a tattoo in the ear, though not all breeders tattoo their ferrets.

Remember

In the female ferret, spaying is a medical necessity. Unlike some mammals that go into heat for short periods of time, the female ferret stays in heat until she’s bred. The unending heat cycle more often than not leads to a life-threatening condition called aplastic anemia. Spaying your ferret can save her life. In the male ferret, neutering is more of a behavioral necessity. It lessens aggression toward other male ferrets and urine marking on the ground (which also dramatically decreases the odor of boys).

Technical Stuff

Aplastic anemia

is a condition caused by high levels of the hormone estrogen, which is produced when the ferret is in heat. A high level of estrogen suppresses the production of vital red and white blood cells in the bone marrow. As the disease advances, this suppression becomes irreversible. Secondary bacterial infections occur due to the lack of white blood cells to fight infection. The ferret’s blood can’t clot properly, so bleeding becomes a problem.

Severe anemia sets in and an insidious death follows. Signs can be seen in ferrets that have been in heat for a month, and they can remain in heat for up to 6 months if unbred. How long it takes for aplastic anemia to kill a ferret depends on many variables.

If you plan to adopt a whole, or unaltered, ferret, you should have the altering procedure done by the time the fuzzy is 6 months old, unless you’re planning to breed her. Commercial breeders alter their babies as young as 6 weeks old. Some people, however, suggest that males be altered as late as 12 months and females as late as 9 months so that they can reach full growth. Personally, I wait until 6 months for both the males and females.

Very few differences exist between altered male and altered female ferrets. In fact, every altered ferret I’ve ever met had his or her own unique personality that was unrelated to gender or age. All ferrets are amusing, hyper to various degrees, and easy to please, as long as you meet their needs. The following sections dig deeper into the behavior and characteristics of male and female ferrets and how they relate to sexual maturation.

Boys will be boys

You can identify your male as whole if his testicles begin to drop (appear) and his odor becomes stronger as the breeding period approaches. Like many animals, from the prairie dog to the moose elk, unneutered ferrets enter a period of breeding when all they can think about is passing on their superior genetic makeup. For ferrets, this breeding cycle may start in the spring and last six months, all the way until fall.

During the breeding season, males on the prowl can become aggressive toward other whole male ferrets. During this period, a boy’s weight also can fluctuate a great deal; he usually loses weight while staying preoccupied with the girls. Some males even become depressed or anxious if they fail to find the girls of their dreams for nights of unbridled romance.

For their own safety and the safety of cagemates, you should house unaltered males separately during mating season if you’re not using them for breeding. But I suggest that you do them and yourself a favor and neuter.

Girls will be girls

Females, although less intent on finding the hobs of their dreams, enter a period of heat if left unaltered. You can easily tell whether your ferret is in heat because her vulva (genitals) swells a great deal from the increase in hormones.

Remember

If you’re faced with a female fuzzy in heat, your vet may choose to administer a hormone shot to bring her out of heat before spaying her. Or the vet may breed her to a vasectomized male to fake her out of heat before spaying her. Spaying your female while she’s in heat is possible, but it’s considered dangerous due to the risk of hemorrhaging.

Warning!

Swelling of the vulva can also be a sign of an incomplete or partial spay. Altering ferrets at a very young age can result in this rare surgical error. Unfortunately, a swollen vulva also is a common symptom of adrenal problems in a female ferret. Don’t overlook a swollen vulva. If you have a ferret with this symptom, take a visit to an experienced ferret veterinarian; he’ll yield the answers you need in order to proceed with the proper course of action.

“You Want How Many Ferrets?”

Perhaps you’ve already thought about what type of ferret you want, what gender you’d like, what kind of great cage you can make for your fuzzy, and so on; one question you may not have thought about, though, is how many ferrets to get, probably because you just assume that you’ll get one. One ferret can be happy and content in a cage as long as she gets plenty of playtime out of the cage every day. However, if you have a busy schedule and your ferret won’t get out of the cage as often as she should, you may want to consider getting two or three ferrets.

Tip

I advise all ferret owners to have at least two fuzzies. If you’re already caring for one ferret, housing two ferrets won’t be that much different. In fact, having three is about the same! Now that I think of it, three is probably a perfect ferret number (see the nearby sidebar for more). I used to think that one could never have too many ferrets. Experience has led me to change my mind. Groups of ferrets shouldn’t exceed what a normal litter size would be — and the average litter size is five to eight kits. The bigger the group, the more stress created. If you’d like to adopt more than eight ferrets, you should consider breaking them up into groups.

Most altered ferrets will get along with other altered ferrets with little or no problem (see the previous section for more on altering your ferret). Sure, they’ll go through their share of aggressive squabbles and fighting for hierarchy, but they’ll eventually develop a bond. Even though ferrets have a deeprooted solitary instinct, they’ll come to view other ferrets as littermates and play and bop around accordingly (see Figure 4-1). As usual, there are exceptions to the rule, so you’ll have to intervene when introductions and living situations go sour (see Chapter Introducing Fuzzy to His New Family for more on dealing with ferret introductions and living situations).

 

Figure 4-1: Ferrets make good companions for each other and usually playwell together.

Technical Stuff

Ferrets aren’t territorial to the extent that dogs are, but they are territorial critters by nature. In the wild, polecats mark territories and chase off other polecats of the same gender. In a cage, ferrets have little microterritories and squabble over seemingly insignificant things. Although multiple ferrets usually share just about everything, from the water bottle to the litter box to the sock stolen right off your foot, they do make claims to certain things (such as a section on their beds).

Statistically speaking, it’s easiest to introduce one gender to the opposite gender. (And all introductions should be made with altered ferrets, unless you want to have many more.) There tends to be more acceptance if you go this route. Introducing an altered boy to an altered boy also has a high success rate. Surprisingly, a female ferret generally has the most difficulty accepting another female ferret. Keep this in mind when considering adopting multiple ferrets. You can’t make any predictions, however.

If you already have one ferret and are considering adding another, do so with some caution:

• Introduce new furballs in neutral territories with neutral toys, just to be sure there are no bad feelings off the bat. See Chapter Introducing Fuzzy to His New Family on introductions. - An older ferret may not find the antics and energy of a kit or an adolescent as amusing as you do. On the other hand, a younger ferret may be just what the doctor ordered for the sometimes lazy and depressed carpet shark, assuming no serious illness is going on.

Three’s a good company I’ve heard many tales of a ferret becoming severely depressed when her long-term cagemate died. The best thing to do for a grieving ferret, in my opinion, is to get her another ferret as soon as possible. This is where adopting three ferrets comes in handy. Having three means the loss of one ferret won’t leave another ferret completely alone, and you’ll have time to bring another ferret into your life and the lives of the surviving ferrets at your own pace. But that’s just my opinion, and some people think I’m nuts! Ferret lovers often wonder how they started with three ferrets and quickly end up with seven or more. That, my friends, is called ferret math. It’s what ferret lovers blame for the mysterious additions and multiplications of ferrets. It just happens!

• It’s not unusual for the more dominant ferret to act a little bullyish and make the first tackle. They may screech at each other with humped backs and roll each other for a moment or two. Tails may get puffed like pipe cleaners or bottle brushes. One may take all the toys and stockpile them in a guarded corner or hidey-hole. These aren’t unusual acts associated with introductions.
• Watch for the warning signs of true aggression, like ongoing screeching and puffed tails. There should be little to no screeching, and tails should return to normal size within 10 minutes of the initial meeting. If one or both ferrets is doing more biting and screaming than playing after 5 or 10 minutes, call it a day and try again later.

Warning!

It’s unusual to have one ferret kill another, but occasionally you’ll come across an oddball that just simply hates other ferrets and makes an honest effort to injure the other. These guys should remain single. One ferret drawing blood or literally scaring the poop out of another ferret indicates a serious problem, and a mismatch has likely occurred.

Jagon Alert

A solitary ferret is a ferret that has reverted back to normal adult polecat behavior in terms of accepting other ferrets. In other words, she wants to live alone! Face it, ferrets are individuals, and a small percentage just won’t tolerate being with other ferrets. If you have such a fuzzy, you’ll have to keep her separate from the others.

The bottom line is this: One ferret is amusing; two or more ferrets are a stitch. In and out of the cage, multiple ferrets wrestle and tumble together. They chatter and screech and fuss about. They steal each other’s treasures and then collapse together in a cuddly pile until one decides to start the routine over again. If you’re even questioning how many fuzzies to bring home, get at least two!

More than just the cold shoulder Here’s some advice from Animal Behaviorist Dr. Valerie Staton: “Sometimes it’s the new ferret that is being aggressive, not the current residents. When this happens you are likely dealing with fear aggression, not territorial or dominance aggression. Make sure that the new ferret feels safe in her surroundings and has scouted out a safe hiding place before making the introduction. Also, try not to start an introduction when the ferrets are wound up and excited. Sleepy ferrets are less likely to make sudden moves that might startle a nervous newcomer.”

Where to Find Your Ferret

You can adopt or purchase a ferret from many places and from many people. Where you go depends on your priorities, what you’re looking for, and how far you’re willing to go to get your ferret (to the ends of the earth, no doubt!). Pet shops and breeders are the places to go for kits, though shelters and private individuals may have them at times. Shelters and private individuals will have your adults, but pet shops and breeders may often have adults up for sale on occasion as well. To minimize the pains of introductions and quarantining, if you opt for bringing home more than one ferret, consider getting them from the same source. Almost all the sources I mention will offer multiples for sale or adoption. The following sections present the many different locales where little fuzzies are waiting for you as you read.

Remember

No matter where they come from, most ferrets are very adaptable to new people and new environments. If you’re generous with your time, patience, love, and ferret-friendly treats, you’ll have a friend for life.

Perusing pet shops

Perhaps the most commonly thought of source for buying a ferret is the local pet shop. The goal of a pet shop is to sell to customers, not to make your life with a ferret harmonious, so you need to do your homework on the ferret and research your local pet shop before buying a new carpet shark. The following list presents some things to think about if you plan to get your ferret from a pet shop:

• Pet shops are convenient, but your choice can be limited, because they usually only have a few commercially bred kits (baby ferrets) at any given time.
• The majority of the kits come from mass producers (ferret farms). Occasionally, a pet shop will buy kits from a local breeder. You may even find an older fuzzy that wasn’t bought as a kit or whose previous owner returned her.

Remember

Ferrets that originate from mass ferret producers tend to be a little smaller. Many private breeders put out larger and bulkier fuzzbutts. If size is important to you, you need to know where your potential youngsters came from.

• You may or may not get a health guarantee with your purchase of a ferret from a pet shop.

Tip

I suggest that you request a written health guarantee; if the pet shop refuses, look elsewhere for your ferret. Reputable pet shops usually sell healthy animals and therefore should be more than willing to offer written health guarantees.

• Pet shops may be more expensive than many shelters. The expense may be well worth it if your ferret is in top health and has a great personality to match!
• In good pet shops, workers play with the kits frequently to ensure proper socialization, and members of the staff have been trained extensively in the care of the animals they sell.

Warning!

In bad pet shops, staff members leave kits in their cages until potential buyers ask to see them. This practice can lead to poor socialization at a critical point in the ferrets’ lives. In these bad pet shops, employees may be unknowledgeable in the care of specific animals, which causes them to recite misinformation to unknowing customers, and the shops won’t offer solid after-sale support.

You need to find out whether the pet shop you’re considering is one of the good ones; keep the following bits of advice in mind:

• Don’t purchase a ferret on your first visit. Make several visits to see how the staff truly cares for the animals.
• Pet shops should be clean and tidy, as should the animal cages that house the potential pets. The animals should look and act healthy and have clean food and water.
• Employees should be knowledgeable about the animals customers inquire about, or they should be willing to seek out the correct answers to questions. They should be sensitive to your concerns regarding ferrets without displaying the “sell sell sell” attitude.

Tip

I suggest that you see if the pet shop has printed educational materials about ferrets — for example, the pros and cons of having one, the guidelines to determining if a ferret is suitable for you, and information on general care. You can get and look over this information ahead of time to test the employees’ level of knowledge about the pets they sell.

• Try to find people who have purchased animals from your local shop and get their opinions. You also can check with the Better Business Bureau for prior complaints about the shop or call your local Humane Society to ask about the shop.

Picking out private breeders

A logical and common place to find a ferret for adoption is a private breeder — a private breeder can be an individual with a single breeding pair of ferrets or a fancy ferretry with up to a dozen breeding pairs. The biggest typically don’t produce more than a dozen or so litters a year. Like pet shops, you can find good breeders and bad breeders. Locating a reputable breeder can be difficult because few private ferret breeders are out there. You can expect to pay two to three times more for a private-breeder ferret than a pet-store ferret.

Tip

A good source for finding ferret breeders is a small-pet magazine — particularly a ferret-specific magazine, such as Ferrets magazine (www.ferretsmagazine.com). This wonderful magazine not only offers readers up-to-date ferret information on a bimonthly basis, but also advertises breeders and provides other ferret-related resources. You also can use word of mouth in the ferret community; other people may be able to point you toward respected breeders. Additionally, the Internet provides a wealth of information on ferret breeders and their ferretries. This latter option is a great starting place in your search for a private breeder.

People breed ferrets for several reasons, and you must keep them in mind when trying to find a breeder. Some breed for money and profit; others breed because they love fuzzies; and for some, it’s a combination of both. A good breeder will be very honest and up front with you about the responsibility of having a ferret as a pet.

Remember

Although a good breeder should be pleasant and easy to talk with, you may end up feeling like you’re the one being quizzed. This can be a very good thing. A breeder who’s too eager to part with kits may be raising ferrets only for the profit and not for the well being of the ferrets or the buyers.

Here are some more ways you can find out whether a breeder is reputable and a ferret lover:

• Try to get references from people who’ve bought kits from the breeder.
• If geographically feasible, travel to see the breeder’s facility to get a sense of how the ferrets are kept.
• Ask the breeder about his motivation for breeding ferrets. A good breeder may say that he’s breeding ferrets to improve the species.

My, what big ferrets you have! Private breeders often produce bigger ferrets than commercial ferret breeders or pet shops, usually because private breeders don’t neuter/ spay their babies early. Hormones play a role in growth . . . well, let me clarify this a bit. Early neutering causes males to be smaller due to lack of estrogen. However, this same lack of estrogen due to early neutering actually causes females to be larger. Most commercially bred ferret babies are altered at 6 weeks after birth. Ferrets from private breeders usually are altered at the new owners’ expense and discretion. A reputable breeder will discuss your options with you.

• Ask the breeder about vaccination and vet schedules and any illnesses he has encountered with the ferret. Make sure, if you purchase a kit, that you get a written health guarantee from the breeder. An adoption (or purchase) contract should be available for you to see ahead of time.
• A good breeder will offer after-sales support. Ask if the breeder is willing to chat with you when you call with a question regarding your newly purchased baby.
• Ask about what happens if the ferret doesn’t work out for you. Will the breeder take the ferret back? A responsible breeder will do this.

Note: A good breeder may have only one or two pairs of breeding ferrets, or he may have many more. Although you certainly don’t want inbred ferrets, the amount of breeding pairs doesn’t tell you if he does or doesn’t practice good breeding.

Remember

A good look at the animals in stock will tell you more about the breeding practices of a private breeder than anything else. A good breeder, regardless of the number of ferrets he has, will have humane conditions, active and alert ferrets, and intensely curious kits.

When you find a good, honest, reputable breeder, you may have to wait for the next litter to arrive. Some breeders will allow you to special-order certain coat colors or patterns.

Adopting from a ferret shelter

Perhaps the most overlooked location for adopting a wonderful pet ferret is a ferret shelter. At a shelter, you can find ferrets of all colors, patterns, and personalities. Some are youngsters that proved too energetic for their uneducated owners. Others are past their life expectancies and need gentle and loving homes for their final months. Some have been abused and/or neglected and require experienced, patient ferret homes. Others have been well cared for until their surrender. Many shelter fuzzies have special needs, such as daily medications or special feedings.

Remember

If these things sound good to you, a shelter may be the perfect place for you to look. The number of ferrets that wind up in shelters is overwhelming. No matter what type of ferret you’re looking for, a shelter is bound to have her. Adopting a ferret from a shelter is a great way to support the ferret cause. Want an extra perk? An adoption may mean a membership to the shelter’s ferret club (if it has one). Membership could include newsletters, ferret shows, holiday parties, and fundraisers. So, along with adding a wonderful new family member, you get the chance to meet other furball fanatics and make a connection to a lifelong support group.

If you’re considering getting your ferret from a shelter, heed the following information:

• Shelters rely on ferret adoptions for financial assistance and to make room for incoming fuzzies. Many shelters have no less than 60 ferrets at any given time. Adoption fees at shelters usually are lower; they vary depending on the age and health of the ferret being adopted.
• Most people work in the business of ferret rescuing and sheltering only because of their undying devotion to ferrets, so you don’t have to worry about greedy or negative motives.
• Expect shelter operators to conduct friendly yet thorough interviews with potential adopters. That’s good and necessary in the shelter business. The job of the shelter folks is to put their ferrets into lifelong, loving homes. They want to find the best families for these homeless fuzzies.
• Many shelters may have certain restrictions or requirements that breeders and pet shops may not have. For instance, almost all shelters require that the owners return the ferrets to the shelters if the relationships don’t work out. Some have age restrictions on young children. Others want proof from landlords that ferrets are allowed. And still others require the entire family to be present for the adoption process. Every shelter has its own process.
• Most ferret shelters have veterinarians who work closely with them to monitor the health of the ferrets in their care. Some shelters have blood work performed on older fuzzies just for peace of mind.

Remember

A ferret you’re considering adopting from a shelter should already be vaccinated before you bring her home, and a general physical has to have ruled out most illnesses. [1] Most ferret shelter staff members are eager to extend after-adoption support — when they aren’t up to their elbows in work! After your adoption, you’re bound to make friends with the shelter workers, which means a lifetime of support and continuing knowledge.

Tip

Are you starting to look for that perfect shelter ferret but don’t know where to go? Start surfing the Web to research nearby ferret shelters. Here are a couple great places to start: www.ferretcentral.org, www.supportourshelters.org/SOS-ShelterList.html

Both sites keep up-to-date lists of ferret shelters around the world.

Checking the classified ads

The newspaper classified ads or the bulletin boards at veterinary clinics or pet shops are more wonderful sources for ferrets in need of homes. If you live in a larger city (one where owning a ferret is legal; see Chapter Ferrets and the Law: Licensing and Other Issues), it isn’t uncommon to come across posted signs or ads for ferrets that need new homes. Sometimes, the sellers will be willing to part with cages and supplies as part of their fees.

Most often, the ferrets being sold through ads are older. The good news is that a previous owner can provide a wealth of background information on a particular ferret, which you may not be able to get when adopting through other avenues. If you’re hoping to adopt from a private individual who can provide as much background information as possible on your new ferret, adopting through an ad may be for you.

In these situations, you’re most likely not going to get the niceties such as pre-purchase vet visits or health guarantees. The ferret(s) will come “as is,” and “as is” frequently comes with the cage and all supplies. The adoption fee usually is worth that alone. The ferrets themselves should be outwardly healthy and have good temperaments.

Warning!

Buyer beware: Like a pet shop, a private seller’s ultimate goal may be getting rid of the ferret and getting cash in hand as soon as possible. Many sellers, though, are kind animal lovers who just want their fuzzies to go to more appropriate homes and want to recuperate some of their initial investments.

Rescuing the wayward weasel: Stray ferrets

Unfortunately, some people will find stray ferrets that are lost or have been abandoned by their previous caretakers. Always be cautious with a found ferret because you don’t know what she’s been through. She’s likely scared and hungry and probably is very confused. She doesn’t know if your intentions are good or bad, and she may bite out of fear or defense.

Warning!

Ferrets are susceptible to rabies, so take this into consideration and take proper precautions if you find a stray ferret. The first thing you should do is protect yourself from being bitten and take the ferret to the vet for a complete checkup. Remember that the ferret doesn’t need to have bite wounds for it to have been exposed to the virus. Next, follow the proper quarantine procedures for a minimum of two weeks, housing the ferret in her own cage several rooms away from your other ferrets, feeding and cleaning her last, and wearing a different shirt over your clothes while handling that ferret.

Handle the ferret very cautiously, because if you’re bitten, she’ll need to be quarantined at the vet for a minimum of ten days, as required by most states for your own safety. Some states still require that the ferret be euthanized and be tested for rabies because her vaccination status is unknown.

If you find a lost ferret, you should make every attempt to find her home because someone may be grieving the loss of this little furball. Place an ad in your local paper and post notes on bulletin boards at pet shops, veterinary clinics, and other high-traffic areas. Many large newspapers allow you to place lost-and-found ads free of charge for up to one week. Be sure to leave out some specific identifying information in the ad so that the real owner can prove his or her ownership.

Tip

Nowadays, microchipping domestic pets has become common procedure. A microchip can help you rescue a lost animal by tying the unique chip number to the owner. If you find a stray ferret, take the animal to your local veterinarian to have her scanned for a chip.

If the weeks go by and you don’t find her home, you may decide that you want to keep her. Be sure to quarantine her before introducing her to your other fuzzies. She may be sick or have fleas. A trip to the vet with your newly found friend is a must. If you don’t find her home and you can’t keep her, don’t abandon the little fuzzy. You can contact many excellent ferret shelters that would be more than happy to find your friend a proper home. You can also place an ad for the many ferret fanatics out there who may reply quickly to the chance to adopt a new pet.

Warning!

The majority of dog/cat shelters accept ferrets, but many kill the ferrets instead of going to the trouble of finding them good homes. Don’t take a found ferret to your local animal shelter, no matter how good its intentions may seem. Contact a good ferret shelter that will take her in and find a good home for her, or take her into your own home.

Remember

Some people mistakenly identify minks and long-tailed weasels as ferrets. I’ve gone out on more than my fair share of stray ferret calls where I’ve come home with minks. Although these wild animals are awfully cute, minks can pack a powerful bite and shouldn’t be approached. Be sure the critter you’re “rescuing” is indeed a ferret!

by Kim Schilling