Cleaning Time: Not All Ferret Fun and Games

In This Chapter

•  Addressing the mess in fuzzy’s cage
•  Washing your furball
•  Checking the ears and nails
•  Performing the dental checkup
•  Brushing your ferret’s coat

Wouldn’t you like to have a butler deliver your clean, happy ferret to you on the couch — and then get to work cleaning his cage and litter box — so you can just concentrate on the romping, playing, and cuddling parts? Okay, back to reality; most people don’t have butlers, so they must face the routine chores of keeping ferrets. I’m talking about odor control, grooming, and general sanitation stuff here.

If you’re anything like I am, you’ll find it very satisfying to watch your gorgeous, clean, healthy ferret dash about with enthusiasm and then collapse in his unsoiled condo for a long nap. Besides giving you an opportunity to bond and discover possible health problems, cleaning and grooming are necessary for both your and your ferret’s continued happiness and health.

In this chapter, I discuss the ins and outs of cleaning your fuzzy’s cage, bedding, and dishes. I provide much-needed information on cleaning your fuzzy, too. Oh, cheer up. Into every life a little poop must fall!

Cleaning House for a Cozy Cage

When I say you need to regularly clean your fuzzy’s house, I mean the entire house. What good is a sparkling cage if his bedding still has poop stuck in it or his toys are crusty from heaven knows what? Sometimes, people forget to do the whole overhaul. I admit it, I’m guilty at times. Just remember that you and your fuzzy will be happiest when the cleaning tornado hits the entire ferret condo. The following sections take you through the cleaning process for the cage, dishes, toys, bed, and toilet.

Doing your fuzzy’s dishes

When I set out to clean my ferret’s cage, I tackle food dishes and water bottles first, because I think one of the most important aspects of good husbandry is providing clean, fresh food and water at all times. Because pooping and peeing are frequent activities with ferrets, you’re likely to find an occasional mess in the food dish or poop smeared on the side of it. If you notice this, or an unusually dirty bowl, take the dish out immediately and clean it thoroughly. If you ignore it, the poop/dirt won’t go away. Trust me, I’ve tried. Otherwise, regular cleanings with soap and warm water every couple days usually are sufficient. You should have extra food dishes and water bottles on hand to swap with the dirty dishes that you’ll be cleaning.

Maintenance on the dishes and bottles is simple. Soap and water should be adequate when coupled with a gentle scrubbing (with a bottlebrush, for instance). You also can use a mixture of vinegar and water or baking soda and water. The key to good husbandry is to scrub thoroughly to remove any particle or algae buildup. And don’t neglect the tube and stainless steel balls on the water bottle. Keeping these things free of mineral deposits helps eliminate any leakage. Always remember to completely rinse before refilling.

Tip

A more effective cleaning solution is a mixture of warm water and a touch of bleach. At least once a week, clean all the dishes with the bleach and water solution (1:30). Unless you have bionic eyes, you can’t see all the bacteria condos going up on your ferret’s dishes. Come to terms with the fact that bacteria is there and wash frequently. Your ferret will thank you.

Remember

Properly rinsing dishes is just as important as cleaning the dishes. Although a trace amount of soap won’t kill your ferret, it tastes pretty bad and can cause diarrhea. In addition, the residue attracts more dirt and bacteria. Bleach, on the other hand, can cause your ferret to become very ill. Take care when washing the dishes, and be sure to rinse well. As a safeguard, I wash with soap and water after I use bleach. After all, can anyone be too careful when dealing with their precious furballs?

Warning!

Anything from a ferret cage may be contaminated with poop. Don’t use the kitchen or kitchen sink when cleaning if at all possible because you can contaminate areas where you prepare food. Contamination can come with enteric bacteria like E. coli and salmonella from any pet contaminated items that you clean in a kitchen. Instead, use a bathroom sink, bathtub or laundry-room sink to do your cleaning. If the kitchen area is your only option, be sure to clean out the sink with a disinfectant and thoroughly clean any counter surfaces with disinfectant, such as Lysol or your bleach solution.

Stripping his bed

Your ferret’s bedding can get pretty raunchy after a while. Because ferrets spend so much time running in and out of the litter box, chances are good that traces of poop and urine will make their way to your fuzzy’s towels or other bedding. Particles of litter and food crumbs get mixed in there as well. Your fuzzy spends a lot of time snuggling and sleeping in his bedding, so thoroughly washing his bedding at least once a week is important.

Doing ferret laundry is no different from doing human laundry. I use laundry soap and hot water. Sometimes, I add a half-cup of bleach to the load. If you like this suggestion, make sure that the finished laundry doesn’t have a strong bleach odor. If it does, another regular wash should fix the problem.

Before you toss in a load, though, consider the health of your washing machine. I always take bedding outside and thoroughly shake it out before throwing it in the washer. That way, I discard most of the loose litter and debris before washing the bedding. Look for little poopies that may be stuck to the bedding and pick them off. You don’t want to throw debris into your washing machine. Trust me, there’s nothing like wearing a “clean” shirt with a poop stain on it! Worse yet is having someone point it out to you.

Scrubbing (or scooping) the toilet

You should scoop litter boxes as often as you can, refilling them with litter as needed. Obviously, if you have many ferrets, it doesn’t take long for the poop to start piling up. You’ll notice the insides of the litter box getting pretty dirty after a short while, because most ferrets poop in the corners or at an edge. Some fuzzies hang their butts over the side, and the poop lands on the litter box edge.

Remember

Cleaning the litter box regularly helps reduce the number of accidents that happen outside the box, because most ferrets hate to get their feet dirty — unless they’re playing outside in the dirt and sand.

You’ll soon find out that cleaning the litter box can be a nasty undertaking. Use common sense when cleaning the waste. I take out all litter boxes and empty them completely into the garbage at least once a week. Use a rag or dish sponge (not the one from your kitchen) to scrub the bottom and sides of the litter box. Usually, soap and water are sufficient. At least twice a month, I use bleach water to clean the box. Don’t forget to clean the C-clamps that hold the litter box to the cage (see Chapter Home Sweet Home: Preparing Your Ferret’s Quarters), because they can get quite nasty, too.

Tearing down the house

Cleaning the cage can be the most time-consuming and tedious chore. You should clean the cage at least once every couple weeks. I suggest that if the weather is nice, you drag the entire cage outside and hose that sucker down with high-pressure water. The rest of the time, you need to get on your hands and knees and reach into the cage to get it clean. (For more on a ferret’s cage, head to Chapter Home Sweet Home: Preparing Your Ferret’s Quarters.) Here are the steps I take:

1. Pull out any catch pans in the cage so you can change the newspaper or catch litter.

2. Sweep up the displaced litter and food particles from the flooring.

A little hand-held vacuum is perfect for this task.

3. Spray the flooring with a pet-friendly cleaner and wipe it thoroughly, remembering to leave no residue behind.

You can find ferret-friendly cleaners in most pet stores. You’re finished with the easy part!

4. This step is the hard part: getting any solidified poop off the corners of the wire shelves.

I use rubber gloves and pull off the waste. What doesn’t come off with the initial tug I push off with a long, metal stick (such as a shish-ka-bob skewer). You can also use a scouring pad, although the pad can be too abrasive and wear down any paint on the wire. A tool that works well is a nylon scrub pad — the kind you may use with a Teflon pan. It has a nylon mesh over a sponge. It doesn’t ruin paint and it does a good job, after the cage has been wetted down, of getting crusty stuff off.

5. After you clear off most of the poop, use a wet rag and thoroughly clean all the areas of the cage.

If you have short arms like I do or a cage that’s difficult to reach into, you may find that you can’t reach one or two far corners that always seem to have a small bit of poop residue. That’s when hosing can be most effective.

6. Now you’re ready to reassemble the cage.

Getting the gunk off the toys

Don’t neglect the fuzzy’s toys when you’re cleaning his house — a mistake often made by us humans. Assume they’re dirty every time you strip the cage, even if they look clean. The toys get dragged about the ferret’s litter box and buried in his dirty bedding. Check them daily, as well, for obvious signs of being pooped or peed on. The cleaning method you use depends on the type of toy in question. You can safely throw most cloth toys in the wash with the rest of his bedding.

As for plastic toys, I simply soak them in bleach water or plain, warm water until I can easily scrub off all the grime. The important part is to always remember to thoroughly rinse the toys and leave no residue.

Remember

If you happen upon a toy buried beneath a pile of poop or in another messy situation, it’s okay to just pitch it and buy your ferret a new toy. Some things are just too gross to clean. Plus, fuzzbutts deserve new toys as often as possible!

Scrub a Dub Fuzz: Navigating Bathtime

You have plenty to think about before bathing a smelly little ferret — such as choosing the right shampoo and knowing when and where to bathe him. Plus, not all ferrets like baths, so knowing what to do and what not to do can ease the anxiety both of you may be feeling. The following sections explain all the factors you must consider, and then I take you through the actual process of bathing your fuzzy.

One bath too many?

It’s hard to believe that bathing a ferret may defeat the purpose — namely, making the fuzzy smell fresh — but it can be true. Bathing is important, but equally important is not washing your fuzzy too frequently. Bathing strips the skin and fur of their natural oils. The skin must work overtime to reproduce these oils to replace what you washed down the drain, making the smell worse initially. Excessive bathing also can lead to dry, flaky skin and coarse fur.

You’ll probably notice initially that your ferret has a stronger smell than before the bath. Don’t worry. The smell improves within a day or two.

Remember

Unless your ferret gets into something really nasty, don’t bathe him more than once a month. I suggest bathing only a few times a year. Look at it this way: It gives the scratches on your arms ample time to heal before you bathe the furball again!

Picking a shampoo

The shampoo you use on your ferret should be very gentle, like baby shampoo. Don’t use strong shampoos and regular dish soaps; they can lead to dry, itchy skin and brittle fur. Some over-the-counter pet shampoos work well, as long as the shampoo is safe for cats. Your vet may carry some good shampoos that are great for sensitive skin. There are also many ferret shampoos available on the market now. Dog shampoos often contain harsh chemicals that are safe for dogs but very harmful to ferrets.

What’s with my ferret’s tail acne?
Ferrets are prone to blackheads just like humans, although a ferret’s usually show up on his tail. Often, hair loss and a reddish-brown, waxy film come with blackheads, which are caused by dirt and oil clogging their fuzzy pores. Although blackheads aren’t too attractive, they’re nothing to worry about. If you want to	treat them, simply wash your fuzzy’s tail every couple days (the tail only) with a shampoo that contains benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid (which you can get from your vet). Gently scrub the tail with a washcloth and let the suds sit for a minute or two before rinsing.

Remember

Choose only shampoos that are ferret-safe. If you’re unsure about a shampoo, stick with stuff that’s made for cats, kittens, or ferrets. A tearless human baby shampoo also works well on ferrets.

If your ferret is unfortunate enough to have fleas, be sure to read Chapter Ferreting Out Ferret Pests before picking a shampoo and bathing him.

Choosing the crime scene

Where’s the best place to bathe your ferret? The bathtub is an obvious choice. Many people look at bath time as a great opportunity for the water-loving fuzzy to play in the bathtub. This is okay, but limit the free swim to before the water gets all soapy and yucky. The downside to bathing in the tub is that it’s tough on the human back and knees.

Warning!

Many ferrets get so excited at the thought of bathing (yeah, right) that they poop in the water, so you may have to do some cleanup right away!

Sinks also are great places to clean a smelly ferret. The water flow from a sink faucet is a little gentler, and your back and knees will thank you. Avoid the kitchen sink for hygiene reasons; choose either a bathroom or laundry-room sink. Pull-out hoses are good for easy rinsing.

Some people even let their fuzzies into the shower with them. Unless your ferret is comfortable with this method and manageable in the shower — or you shower with your clothes on — I urge you to take extra precaution. A naked human is an extra-vulnerable human!

Doing the deed

You need to do some preparatory work before you can begin the deed of bathing. First, you need some good supplies: an appropriate shampoo, plenty of clean, dry towels for both you and your ferret, and hip boots and goggles (for you). The water you prepare should be a temperature that’s comfortable for a human child.

Remember

A ferret’s body temperature is quite a bit higher than a human’s (100–104°F). What feels warm to you may be a pinch too chilly for a ferret, causing fuzzy goosebumps. Keep the water warm, but always test it before wetting your ferret; you don’t want to scald the little bugger.

Fill the tub, sink, or basin with the water — just deep enough to submerge the ferret’s body while allowing his feet to touch the bottom. This gives the anxious fuzzy a little extra security, because being unable to feel solid ground beneath your feet can be a terrifying experience.

Now you’re ready to bathe. But what if your ferret isn’t? The following sections give you some tips for bathing a water-shy ferret and take you through the normal bathing process.

Bathing a reluctant ferret

When it comes to bath time, not all ferrets enjoy water like their otter cousins. Some act like housecats when they get the slightest bit of water on their paws. Others, fortunately, take to it with Olympic-like style. Oftentimes, a ferret’s first few encounters with water will determine his attitude. Whether your ferret’s disdain for baths is due to his personality or to post-traumatic stress disorder, your job as a ferret human is to make the bathing process as pleasurable as possible.

If you can convince your fuzzy to look at bath time as a treat and reward, your battle may not be as big. Keep in mind that bathing the resistant ferret will not hurt him unless you’re too forceful. You may need to lightly scruff him (see Chapter Introducing Fuzzy to His New Family) and allow his feet to touch the bottom of the sink or tub to support his weight. Here are some more tips:

1. Allow him to play in the sink or tub for a moment without any water to get used to the crime scene.
2. Turn on the faucet just enough for a thin stream to come out, and allow your ferret to explore the water. Offer him a treat, such as a lick of meat baby food from a spoon, as a reward for being a good boy.
3. While he’s still licking his chops, pick him up and put him under the warm stream of water. Offer him another lick of treat.
4. Slowly increase the flow of water until he’s all wet.
5. Put your ferret down and offer him one more lick of treat. Continue onto the next section.

Water anxiety, of course, magically disappears after bath time. I frequently find myself spending time racing to keep my ferrets out of full coffee cups, toilets, and the dogs’ water bowls. Bath anxiety may just be a control thing. Who knows for sure?

Wax on, wax off

I start a ferret’s bath by lathering his back, because that’s the easiest place to pour the shampoo. You can also pour the shampoo on your hands and rub your hands together before lathering him up. From there, I spread the shampoo evenly across all parts of his body, including the top of his head. Be careful not to get any soap in his eyes and ears. Some shampoos sting like heck, and your ferret will be sure to hold a grudge for next time. If you do get soap in your ferret’s eyes, flush his face gently with water, using a cupped hand.

Remember

A ferret with water-soaked fur is slightly heavier than a dry ferret, so take extra care to support his full weight during and after the bath. It can be tricky to lather up the rascal while he’s trying to crawl up your arm. You almost need an extra set of hands — two to hold the ferret, one to pour the shampoo, and one to lather. Giving a bath is an art that’s quickly mastered by the multi-ferreted human, though.

Keeping soap out of your ferret’s mouth can be more challenging. Plenty of fuzzies seem to enjoy the taste of soap. Although this quirk may appear disgusting to some, I must defend the ferret by saying I also enjoyed the taste of soap when I was a child. Unlike me, though, a ferret won’t outgrow the taste. A little bit of soap won’t hurt him, but keep him from sneaking in a lick anyway because there’s nothing nutritious in soap and too much can make him ill.

After you have his body lathered up, you can get ready to rinse. Rinsing thoroughly is as important as lathering. Besides drying out his fur and making him itchy, soap residue left on the fur attracts dirt and gunk, and you’ll soon have a dirty ferret again. For this reason, I suggest that you drain the water basin and use fresh, warm water to rinse. You can use a cup to pour the water over your ferret, or you can hold the ferret under the faucet — as long as the water pressure isn’t too hard (see Figure 9-1). I enjoy using a hose that attaches to the faucet. Some sinks already have built-in hoses.

Don’t drown the poor bugger while rinsing. In other words, don’t pour water directly over his head. Use your hand to scoop water onto his head and to act as a washcloth. Remember to rinse the hard-to-reach areas, like the armpits and throat. A well-rinsed furball is a squeaky-clean furball!

Remember

Before you rinse, test the water temperature. Water that’s too hot scalds, and water that’s too cold causes your ferret to scramble for cover.

Figure 9-1: Lather your ferret’s entire body before rinsing, being careful not to get soap in his eyes.

Drying out

If you think a dog makes a fuss after a bath, wait until you get a load of the ferret. Drying time is a major production, no doubt about it. For fuzzy, this is happy, hopping, dooking time — a time for puffed tails and sideways sashays. The ferret’s main goal is to get as dry and as filthy as he possibly can in the shortest amount of time. This means he’ll try to rub up against anything and everything he can, from the couch cushions to the dust bunnies behind the sofa — and that disgusting little spot you can’t reach behind the toilet.

You want to prevent your fuzzbutt from undoing all your hard work, which means you must take it upon yourself to dry him or at least allow him to dry himself in a clean, safe place. First things first: Towel-dry him as best you can, making sure that you’re gentle yet thorough in removing as much water as possible. Some people like to use warm towels to dry their ferrets. You can warm a towel in the clothes dryer or microwave, but make sure you don’t let the towel get too hot.

Remember

A great place for drying time is a bathtub filled with dry towels. You can also use a bathroom (with drained tub and toilet lid down) or the play room. Wherever you decide to let your ferret dry, though, keep in mind that he’ll want to go to the bathroom soon after his bath. If he poops on your towel setup, he’ll probably try to step in it, roll in it, and fall asleep in it. Drying time should be a supervised time. Besides, you wouldn’t want to miss the drama for the world!

Some ferrets allow owners to use a hair dryer. (If you use a little round brush, you can give your fuzzy a little extra poof — just kidding.) For this method, use the warm, not hot, setting and keep the dryer moving so you don’t aim warm air at the same part of the body for too long, which can cause burns (and split ends). Also, keep the dryer at least 12 inches from the body to prevent burns.

If after drying your ferret is still damp, you need to put him in a place where he can finish drying off. The best spot is a warm place with no drafts. And unless his cage is clean, filled with clean towels, and temporarily has the litter box removed, that spot is out of the question.

Caring for Those Little Ears

A ferret’s normal earwax is light or reddish brown. It should have very little, if any, odor to it. If it stinks, something is wrong. Some furballs need their ears cleaned more frequently than others. Some can go for long periods of time. Health, age, and season may determine how much wax your fuzzy produces, so be sure to consult with your vet and follow your nose to any possible problems. What your eyes may miss, your nose may discover. I, for one, use playtime as an opportunity to do a quick ear inspection.

Remember

Ear cleaning should be done no more frequently than once every two to three months. Cleaning more frequently will cause more earwax production. In fact, earwax is protective and shouldn’t be removed unless it’s excessive or your ferret is about to enter a ferret show (see Chapter Enrichment: Yours and Your Ferret’s). Not cleaning the ears won’t cause ear mites, deafness, or infections. In fact, ear disease in ferrets is pretty uncommon with the exception of mites, which are parasites transmitted directly from one ferret to another.

The only thing to clean when you clean a ferret’s ears is the outer part — go nowhere near the ear canal (the hole). You’re more likely to cause damage by poking around in the ear and shoving the normal wax into the ear canal. The following sections go through the preparation and the execution.

Remember

Ear cleaning can be tough for a beginner, so I suggest you have your vet demonstrate the procedure once or twice until you feel comfortable with it. No matter how comfortable you become, though, your ferret will hate having his ears cleaned. If done too often or incorrectly, it may be painful and uncomfortable. Those cotton swabs may look tiny for your ears, but they seem like large wads of cotton to a ferret. The key to preventing injury due to panic is gentleness. If you don’t think you can handle the ear-cleaning process, your vet should be more than happy to perform the procedure for a minimal fee.

Gathering supplies

To clean your ferret’s ears, you definitely need some cotton swabs. Here are a couple other things you need to acquire before you begin:

• A good liquid ear cleanser: You can purchase this product from most pet supply stores or from your vet. Make sure that the solution is safe for cats and kittens, because that means it will be safe for your fuzzy, too.
• A small dish: Especially if you have a bunch of ears to clean, a small dish may be helpful. Pour a little ear-cleaning solution into the dish. You can dip the clean end of a cotton swab into the liquid instead of fumbling around to squirt some on the tip. Some people moisten the tips of several swabs before they begin. If you do, be sure you place them on a clean surface to prevent them from getting dirty.

Executing the ear clean

Find a quiet and comfortable place to clean your ferret’s ears, and follow the steps in this list:

1. Dip a clean cotton swab in the ear-cleaning solution.

2. Scruff or firmly hold your ferret (see Chapter Introducing Fuzzy to His New Family).

Make sure that your ferret’s bottom is supported when you’re scruffing him, especially if he’s a big guy. If he moves too much, you can lessen the bottom support a little until he settles down. You also can try getting a better hold of the scruff from the beginning.

3. Using your scruffing hand, hold the tip of his ear between your fingers. With your other hand, use the moistened end of the swab to wipe the inside of your ferret’s ear.

Some experienced ferret humans feel comfortable scruffing their ferrets with one hand and using the other to clean the ears. I prefer to have a helper hold my ferret. My arms eventually get sore from all the holding (especially in my multi-ferret household), and I like to have one hand free to hold my fuzzy’s ear when I’m maneuvering the cotton swab in the other.

Remember

Always use the moistened end of the cotton swab first. It loosens and scoops up a lot of the ear gunk. Starting off with the dry tip can be too abrasive on the ferret’s sensitive ears.

4. Using a circular motion, make contact with the inner walls and crevices of the ear to remove all the hidden gunk.

Warning!

Never push the cotton swab into your ferret’s ear canal. You may damage his ear canal or pack the earwax deep into it, making it difficult to get out and hard for the ferret to hear.

A good guide is to make sure that you can see the tip of the swab.

5. Repeat with your collection of moistened swabs until the tips come out with little or no ick on them.

Some ears require a repeat of the process with two or three freshly moistened swabs.

Warning!

Never reuse a dirty swab, and never dip a used swab into the cleaning solution. Doing so contaminates the rest of the cleanser.

6. Using the dry end of a swab, repeat the circular wiping process.

Your ferret will probably squirm during the cleaning process. If you hit a particularly sensitive or itchy area, he may even jerk a leg back and forth like a dog does when you find a perfect scratching spot. However, this isn’t a feel-good reaction. Be gentler and pull out the swab in case you’re in too deep. Remember, you can have a lick of Linatone when you’re finished as a treat for a job well done. Make sure that your ferret gets a taste, too!

Nailing Down the Manicure

The bottom line is this: Trimming his nails makes your ferret more comfortable. Fuzzies need their claws for many things, from walking and balance to climbing curtains and counter cruising. Overgrown nails can hurt the ferret, because long nails prevent his foot from resting flat on the ground. Trimming helps prevent the nails from splitting and getting caught on cage wires, carpeting, and bedding. Clipping your fuzzbutt’s claws regularly also helps lessen the severity of human scratches and damage from digging.

Warning!

You need to clip nails frequently because ferrets should never be declawed. A ferret’s claws are non-retractable — like the claws on rabbits and dogs (cats have retractable claws) — so removing them would entail removing parts of his toes. Most veterinarians find this mutilating surgery too inhumane to perform, as do I.

The frequency of clipping varies from ferret to ferret, because nail-growth rates vary. Also, the amount and type of exercise you give your ferret factors in, because a lot of play may wear down his nails. On average, I find that I need to break out the nail trimmers every two to three weeks.

Now that you have the why and when down, you can get into the how. The following sections break down the clipping method you can use and how you can actually get the job done.

Choosing your clipping method

How you approach nail trimming depends on you and your ferret: You can use the scruff method, the distract method, or the sneak-attack method. The number of ferrets you have, your available time, the ferret’s tolerance to nail clipping, and your ferret’s distractibility are key factors in determining the method to use. The following list outlines these three methods:

• The scruff method is probably the quickest way to trim nails. It steadies your ferret, gives you a better grip, and lessens the chance of over-cutting. It generally calms the ferret (and you), so it’s great for beginners who are getting used to the art of clipping.

Tip

If your scruffed ferret moves around a lot while you’re clipping, allow him to lick a treat, such as meat baby food, while you scruff him. You can clip his nails quickly and easily this way; however, this method does require two people.

• The distract method can take a little more time, but it’s a nice way for you and your ferret to spend some quality time together. The method involves setting the fuzzy in your lap and placing a few drops of fatty acid supplement, or another tasty substance, on his belly. While he busies himself licking it off, you can dive in and clip before he has a chance to object. This method doesn’t work with all ferrets, but it can be worth a try.
• The sneak-attack method is performed while your ferret is in a deep sleep. Depending on the quality of his sleep and your clipping talent, you may get all 20 nails clipped or just 1 or 2 before he wakes up.

Remember

No matter what clipping method you choose, you should give a treat to your fuzzy during or after the manicure. You want him to look forward to his clippings!

After you decide how you want to approach nail trimming, take a good look at your ferret’s nails so you know what you’re dealing with. Most fuzzy nails are long, curving, and dagger-like. Some fuzzies develop thicker nails as they age. The nails on the back paws are much shorter because they wear down more quickly, meaning they can be more difficult to clip. But unlike many dogs, whose nails are solid black, a ferret’s nails are white. The quick, or vein, is easy to see, so you know exactly how much nail tip you can clip. So you have that going for you!

Performing the clip

To perform the clip, I use fingernail clippers designed for human babies. Regular-size human clippers work well, too. Some people like to use cat- or dog-nail clippers, but I find them too awkward to handle when clipping such tiny nails. You also have a hard time seeing what you’re doing because of the shape of the clipper. Whatever clippers you find most comfortable, make sure that the blades are sharp before you clip. Dull blades can cause the nail walls to crush, leaving the edges rough. Also, make sure that the lighting in the room is adequate.

To trim your ferret’s nails, follow these steps (you can use any of the clipping methods for these steps):

1. Take your thumb and first finger and hold the paw close to the toes, with your thumb on the bottom of the paw.

2. Use the pressure of your thumb to spread the toes.

Doing so makes going from claw to claw easier.

3. Clip as much of the white nail tip off each toe as you can, leaving some white after the quick (the interior of a ferret’s nail; see a cross-section of a ferret nail in Figure 9-2).

Tip

Cutting into the quick is painful and causes the ferret to bleed. Because accidents happen (perhaps you weren’t paying attention or your fuzzbutt suddenly moved), have some styptic powder or cornstarch on hand to stop any bleeding that may occur. Apply directly to the tip of the bleeding nail. If those materials aren’t available, try dipping the bleeding nail into a bar of white soap, beeswax, or flour. You also can try running cold water over it. I suggest postponing the rest of the manicure until after your ferret has forgiven your dreadful deed.

Even if the nail doesn’t bleed, cutting too close to the quick can be painful, and your ferret will let you know. Take extra care with the back nails, because some have teeny-weeny nail tips. Look closely before clipping them. If the tips seem too short to clip, try filing them with a nail file, being careful not to scrape the fuzzy’s sensitive paw pads.

Figure 9-2: The quick contains blood vessels, so be sure not to cut a nail too short.

Remember

If you let your ferret’s nails grow for a long time between cuttings, the quicks will grow longer and longer into the nails, allowing you to cut off less and less of the nails. This isn’t a good thing. Cutting frequently causes the quicks to regress back toward the paws so that you can cut a good amount of the nails off, giving your fuzzy more freedom and less of a chance of snagging.

Chewing On Chomper Maintenance

As a routine part of your ferret’s grooming process, you should check out his teeth and gums. Tartar will build up on your ferret’s teeth, regardless of his diet. In addition, neglected teeth can go bad and/or chip, leading to abscesses that can seriously affect his health. Aging ferrets have more dental problems than younger ones, so it’s up to you to sink your teeth into this chore while your ferret is still young and chipper. Your fuzzy’s future health and happiness depend on it.

All children resist brushing their teeth in the beginning, and a fuzzy is no different. The good news is, most ferrets get used to having their teeth cleaned if you do so regularly and gently. In the sections that follow, I show you how to perform a regular dental checkup, and I go through the process of brushing your fuzzy’s teeth. Soon enough, you’ll be a brushing wizard!

Performing the dental checkup

The dental checkup is easy with most ferrets, although it can be quite a challenge with more difficult patients. Most of my carpet sharks sit in my lap with minimal fidgeting and allow me to lift their gums for a peek. Others need to be scruffed gently while I perform the dental inspection (see Chapter Introducing Fuzzy to His New Family).

I always like to have an extra pair of hands around so that I can concentrate on my findings. No matter how you handle the inspection, be gentle. Your ferret won’t understand why you’re poking around in his mouth, so take that into consideration.

You have two main things to look for when doing the dental checkup: the teeth and the gums.

Remember

With the exception of small traces of tartar buildup, if you see something out of the ordinary in your furball’s mouth, contact your vet right away to schedule a visit. Dental problems can be serious enough to cause death. Non-dental problems that are located in the mouth are almost always signs of an under-lying illness. Regardless of whether you have a dental emergency, your vet should perform yearly dental exams on your fuzzy and remove any excess tartar or decaying teeth.

Teeth

First, you should take a peek at all his teeth. The grayish or greenish discoloration you may see is tartar, which forms from plaque. Buildup happens at the same time and at the same rate on all the teeth. However, the ferret’s tongue acts as sort of a windshield wiper, helping clear away the gunk on the lingual side, or “tongue side,” of the teeth. Because the self-cleaning is less efficient on the outer side, tartar builds up faster on the buccal side, or “cheek side,” of the teeth. And buildup occurs even faster in areas where folds and crevices exist, such as on the carnassials or back teeth.

The stuff you see on the teeth isn’t necessarily the problem, though; even small amounts of buildup can signal under-the-gum disease. Although tartar doesn’t cause gingivitis — which is characterized by red, inflamed gums — it may exacerbate the problem by injuring tissue and increasing the progression of gingivitis. Various stages of periodontal disease can follow gingivitis and are marked by the actual recession of the gum line, as well as bone loss. At this point, the ferret’s teeth lose their support, loosen, and fall out. Diseased teeth can be painful, can lead to serious infection, and can cause the ferret to stop eating.

Without tooth cleaning and regular vet checkups, buildup (and problems) can increase as your ferret ages. A small amount of buildup is expected and not necessarily a cause for concern; however, it can become your ferret’s enemy if not kept in check.

Gums

The gums should be smooth, moist, and a medium-pink color. Red, inflamed gums are a sign of gum disease, and your ferret should be treated immediately by your vet. If they appear very light in color (whitish/grayish/bluish), your ferret may be seriously ill, so a visit to your vet is a must. If you notice isolated swelling over one or two teeth, you can suspect a tooth abscess. If you dare, stick your nose up to his mouth and take a whiff. Conditions such as gum problems and ulcers result in a case of bad breath.

Remember

Ulcers on the gums or on the inside of the lip flap are a common sign of the disease insulinoma. These ulcers usually are whitish in color, and sometimes they ooze. Your ferret may point out these ulcers or other dental problems by pawing at his mouth. Other signs include drooling and a crusty bib. Although insulinoma isn’t necessarily a dental problem, it is something to keep an eye out for as long as you have your eye in his mouth. (For more information on insulinoma, see Chapter Finding and Treating the Big C and Other Lumps.)

Warning!

If you notice your ferret has bad breath at any time — not just during a checkup — you should call your vet to schedule an appointment. In addition to being a sign of mouth ulcers and gum problems, bad breath may be an indication of liver or kidney problems.

Brushing his teeth

After you perform an exam and find that everything is okay, what can you do to prevent any future dental problems? Brush his teeth! You can make cleaning your ferret’s teeth a regular part of your grooming routine. All you have to do is invest in a cat toothbrush (don’t use your spouse’s) or a human infant toothbrush. You can purchase toothpaste designed for use on dogs or cats, although it seems that most ferrets find the taste disagreeable — even the meat flavored ones. It may be worth a try, though. You can also use Petromalt, which aids in preventing hairballs.

Warning!

Never use adult human toothpaste to brush your ferret’s teeth. The fluoride in adult human toothpaste is thought to be poisonous to fuzzies, and ferrets don’t know the meaning of “rinse and spit.” If you want to use human tooth-paste, use toothpaste made especially for human toddlers.

To brush your ferret’s teeth, follow these steps:

1. Lift the gum and gently wipe his teeth with the toothbrush, using up and down and back and forth movements.

2. Gently go over his gums with the toothbrush after you finish the teeth.

Pay particular attention to cleaning his gum line (where the teeth disappear into the gums).

Remember

Patience and gentleness are the keys to successfully brushing your ferret’s teeth. After all, you’re not sanding down old paint. Some ferrets tolerate having their teeth brushed after a while, but others may have to be scruffed. Use the method that’s the least stressful on you and your ferret.

Breaking Out the Hairbrush

Some people choose to brush their fuzzies’ fur as they would a dog’s or cat’s. Other people skip this grooming step; maybe they’re lazy or just find it unnecessary. There’s no disadvantage to brushing as long as you use a soft brush and you’re gentle, but brushing does have two main advantages:

• Helps to keep your ferret’s coat clean and free of debris
• Removes loose fur — an especially important thing because fuzzies are prone to hairballs, and hairballs can be fatal

If you decide to brush your fuzzbutt, use a soft brush designed for kittens,  rabbits, or other small mammals. These brushes generally are shorter bristled and just hard enough to remove loose fur without irritating sensitive skin. Stroke the brush in the same direction as the fur. Most furkids don’t want to remain motionless for very long, so be aware that brushing can be a quick adventure. Some ferrets, however, enjoy this part of the grooming process and come to look forward to it.

by Kim Schilling