Stocking Up on Carrots

 

In This Chapter

• Understanding rabbit nutrition
• Feeding your bunny the right food
• Avoiding overweight rabbits
• Growing a garden just for Peter Rabbit

That old adage, “You are what you eat,” doesn’t just apply to humans. This truth applies to rabbits, too. Feed your rabbit a healthy and complete diet, and he’ll be a healthy, happy-go-lucky bunny.

Providing a healthy diet for your bunny is much more involved than just dumping a cup of pellets in his food bowl every day. Rabbits need variety in their diet, just like humans do, and with just a little effort, you can provide all the vitamins, minerals, fiber, and food energy that your rabbit needs.

Supplying Your Bunny with Belly Timber

Before you start feeding your rabbit, knowing that your rabbit is a herbivore is important. Herbivores eat only plants. Because rabbits are herbivores, everything they eat consists of plant material. So don’t give your bunny a steak. Not only will his nose turn up at it, but also the smell of it will probably scare the heck out of him. To get the proper nutrients a rabbit needs, your pet depends on you for good, fresh foods. (Chapter Choosing the “Right” Rabbit details more about a rabbit’s body and helps you understand why a good diet is so important.) You need to understand some basic things about your bunny’s biological needs:

- Bunnies dig grazing in the grass. In the wild, rabbits are grazers, which means they spend a significant amount of time roaming from plant to plant as they nibble. In nature, rabbits have a wide variety of plants at their disposal and are thus able to get all the nutrients that they need from them. Domestic rabbits, though, have no choice in the matter of diet. They depend on their owners to provide them with variety of nutritious foods — grass hay, vegetables, quality pelleted feed, and some fruits.

- Water is vital to life. Water makes up a substantial portion of the mammalian body, and rabbits are no exception. Rabbits drink a little over a quarter cup of water per pound of rabbit per day. This amount can be more if the temperature is warm or the rabbit is exercising, and less if the rabbit is eating a lot of water-containing foods, like vegetables and fruits. Without water, rabbits die quickly. Not only is water itself essential to keeping the vital organs working properly, but it also aids digestion and keeps the rabbit’s body cool in hot weather.

Remember

Rabbits must have fresh water at their disposal at all times. You should replace the water in their water bottles with fresh water every single day, without exception. Providing your rabbit with bottled or filtered water is all the better. Rabbits, like humans, can do without the impurities present in most tap water.

- Gradual change is better. The digestive system of a rabbit is unlike that of a human or even a dog or cat. Rabbits depend on a variety of intestinal bacteria to break down their food. When dietary changes are made too quickly (like giving your bunny a pile of strawberries or switching to a “gourmet” pellet), this intestinal balance is thrown off, making the rabbit sick. When adding new foods to your bunny’s diet, do so one food at a time, one piece at a time, so that you’re able to monitor any negative changes in her stools (diarrhea). A good rule is to try a new food for three days before adding another to the mix.

Hay Every Day Keeps the Doctor Away

Knowing the general rules of rabbit nutrition is a good start, but the details are most important. To keep your rabbit healthy, you need to provide the right blend of fresh foods and fiber.

When you look at the rabbit’s gastrointestinal tract (see Chapter Choosing the “Right” Rabbit), you can see that having a high-fiber diet makes everything move more smoothly; fiber is essential in producing cecotropes, which are the nutrient-rich droppings your rabbit needs to eat. The good news is you can provide fiber easily by feeding grass hay. In fact, being the grazers they are, rabbits should have grass hay available to them all the time. You can put it in a hay rack (see Chapter Shacking Up with an Indoor Rabbit) or in a box inside the cage or exercise area. When the supply runs low, keep replacing it.

Remember

In addition to the fiber, grass hays are rich in other essential nutrients. Several types of grass hay exist: timothy, oat, brome, Bermuda, and mixed orchard grass. Any is fine. In fact, mixing them is a gourmet treat. Alfalfa, though, is one type of hay to avoid using; it’s too high in calories and protein.

Tip

You can purchase hay at a pet store or feed store. Make sure that the hay smells fresh and isn’t damp or moldy. Some stores leave hay sitting for a long time, so find out how long it’s been around (the fresher, the better). Try to buy only as much as you’ll use for about a two-month period and keep it dry. Store hay in a dry location out of the sun, in a container that is not air-tight (so no garbage cans). Don’t store hay in sealed plastic bags; sealing in hay’s natural moisture content can cause mold to grow.

When purchasing hay, look for the grass hays, which are light brown-green and grass-like. Alfalfa hay, which should only be fed to bunnies younger than six months, is dark green with more tough stems. Grass hay isn’t readily available in some areas, but you can order it online. The Appendix gives Web sites worth checking out in this arena.

Depending on the availability of hay where you live, you may be offered a choice between first- and second-cut hay. Be prepared with the facts:

- First-cut hay: Tends to be coarser and stalky, like straw. This high-fiber cut is better for your bunny, but not as tasty as some rabbits would like.

- Second cut hay: Dark green, finer, and more grass-like than first-cut hay. This cut is lower in fiber, which makes it the second choice as far as nutrition. Rabbits, like humans, make many of their food choices based on taste, not nutrition (like choosing the chocolate chip muffin over the bran muffin); as far as taste goes, second-cut would be voted “best tasting” by many rabbits.

Sticking to first-cut timothy hay is probably the best choice for your bunny’s health, but some rabbit’s will outright refuse the stuff. In this case, less fiber is better than no fiber, just as long as your finicky bunny has hay for munching.

Tip

For those of you with allergies, use timothy hay cubes (avoid alfalfa hay cubes). Although loose hay is preferred, these compressed cubes are the next best thing. (Processed cubes have fiber but in short lengths, which aren’t as effective in the rabbit gut as loose hay). If your rabbit eats cubes instead of loose hay, getting a high-fiber pelleted food is especially important. (See the upcoming section “Making the Most of Pellets.”) If you can’t find timothy hay cubes in your area, you can get them from Web sites listed in the Appendix.

Wild rabbits eat plenty of fresh foods and your domestic rabbit should, too. Greens and fruit aren’t only important to your rabbit’s health, but they’re also tasty treats that he’ll undoubtedly enjoy.

Going Green

Green vegetables, particularly the leafy type, are the most important fresh food for your rabbit, and he should have at least three kinds on a daily basis. Root veggies are also good. On a daily basis, give your rabbit at least 1 cup of greens for every 3 pounds of weight.

For example, a 6 pound rabbit should get 2 cups of greens every day.

When adding new veggies to your rabbit’s diet, do so gradually, one at a time, so you can keep track of which, if any, don’t agree with your rabbit’s tummy (soft stools or diarrhea). Most rabbit veterinarians suggest varying the vegetables offered, though they stress the point that at least three kinds be given each day. Choose from the following:

- Alfalfa sprouts

- Basil

- Beet greens

- Bok Choy

- Broccoli

- Brussels sprouts

- Carrot tops (with some carrots, for good measure)

- Celery

- Chard

- Chicory

- Cilantro

- Clover (too much can cause soft stools, so feed in moderation)

- Collard greens

- Dandelion flowers and greens (without pesticides)

- Endive

- Green peppers

- Kale

- Lettuce, dark leaf (romaine is best; iceberg lettuce is low in nutrients)

- Mint

- Mustard greens

- Parsley

- Pea pods (the flat, green edible kind)

- Radish tops

- Spinach

- Watercress

- Wheat grass

You can offer your rabbit other green leafy vegetables, too, to see whether she likes them. Remember that rabbits are all individuals, and you may find that your rabbit doesn’t like some greens but particularly enjoys others. If you’re not sure whether a plant is safe for your rabbit, take a look at the list of plants in Chapter Making Fitness and Fresh Air Fun for Your Bunny (or specific parts of plants) that rabbits should not eat.

Remember

Before you feed greens to your rabbit, wash them thoroughly and check for any rotten areas. Be sure to cut off those areas before offering the greens to your pet, or better yet, skip these rotted greens altogether. You can buy chopped and cleaned bags of mixed greens sold for people salad, but please — no salad dressing! When available, organic fresh foods are even better.

Getting Fruity

Those who know and love bunnies can attest to the fact that many of them have a serious sweet tooth. Unfortunately, even the natural sugars in fruit can mean trouble for both rabbits and humans. Your best bet is to offer the following fruity delights sparingly and only as treats. (Sparingly means in tablespoons, not cups!)

- Apples (no seeds, please; they’re toxic)

- Berries, such as strawberries, raspberries, and blueberries

- Peaches, pears, and plums

- Papayas

- Melons, such as watermelon, cantaloupe, and honeydew

- Orange slices (peeled)

Bananas, grapes, and raisins are especially sweet. Think of them as the “lollipops” of your bunny’s diet — only on rare occasions. (The upcoming section “Giving Your Bunny Treats” discusses treats and portions in more detail.) As with all fresh produce, be sure to wash fruit thoroughly.

Growing a garden Rabbits love nothing more than to graze naturally. If you have a green thumb and want to give your rabbit a truly natural way for him to take in his daily nutrients, grow a bunny garden. Set aside a patch of your backyard and plant the seeds of some of the plants listed as good greens in this chapter. (Mint, parsley, basil, and leaf lettuces are easy to grow.) Use organic soil and avoid using pesticides or herbicides. When the plants mature, create a protective enclosure for your rabbit all around the garden and let him run loose among the plants daily, if possible. Consider, too, that lawn grasses are similar to the different varieties of grass hay, just never allowed to mature. Left unmowed, a section of lawn grass becomes a veritable snacking meadow for rabbits. Be certain, of course, to ensure that the area is not treated with pesticides and is carefully supervised and protected from predators. If you don’t have a yard for planting, don’t fret. Use a large tray that you can keep on your balcony, fire escape, or window sill as your garden. Try to find a south-facing area or any area that gets plenty of direct sun. Once your plants have grown to maturity in the tray, give your rabbit access to it for a while so that he can enjoy the fruits (and veggies) of your labor.

Making the Most of Pellets

Warning!

For years, pet rabbit owners have been giving their bunnies alfalfa-based, commercially produced rabbit pellets. These high-calorie nuggets of groundup hay, grain, vitamins, and minerals were considered a staple in pet rabbit diets for a long time. The result, according to many rabbit experts, has been a plethora of obese and unhealthy pet bunnies (see Figure 6-1).

Remember

Readily available, alfalfa-based pellets are convenient, but newer information suggests that pellets aren’t optimal for pet rabbits that are not growing or producing baby rabbits. Therefore, the latest recommendations for the pet rabbit are that any pellets you use should be timothy-based, and not alfalfa-based. Choose kinds that have 20 percent or greater fiber content.

Picking pellets

Not all pellets are created equal. If you want a healthy, long-lived pet, search around for grass hay-based pellets, most of which are made from timothy. A few companies make this product, including Oxbow Animal Health, which is mentioned in the Appendix. You can also opt to leave pellets out of your rabbit’s diet, as long as you provide a constant supply of grass hay and plenty of fresh foods. (Talk to your vet about specific amounts.)

Figure 6-1: Overweight? The top rabbit isn’t; the bottom rabbit is.

Tip

When shopping for timothy-based pellets, you’ll notice that the larger bags of feed are the better deal, money-wise. But don’t be tempted to buy a huge bag that lasts for six months because the pellets will lose their nutritional value over time. Buy only what your rabbit can consume in a month’s time and keep them out of sunlight in a cool, dry place to prevent mold. Like hay, pellets should be stored in a container that is not air-tight but that will keep out bugs and other pests.

Determining the correct amount of pellets

Remember

The amount of pellets that your rabbit should eat depends on a few factors:

- Babies (less than 3 months): Up until 7 weeks of age, kits rely on their mother’s milk for most of their nutritional needs. Access to alfalfa hay (which is okay for growing babies) and pellets should begin around 4 weeks. Try to avoid feeding alfalfa-based pellets to babies because it may make it more difficult to change them over to timothy-based pellets as adults. Wait until about 12 weeks to start introducing veggies, one at a time, in very small quantities (half an ounce).

- Adolescents (5 to 12 months): Up until 7 months, offer unlimited pellets and hay, making the transition from alfalfa to grass hay. Continue to introduce more vegetables and greens. At around 7 months, decrease pellets to . cup per 6 pounds of rabbit. Consider introducing a small amount of fruit as a treat (less than 2 ounces per 6 pounds of rabbit).

- Adult (1 year and older): The amount of pellets you give your rabbit depends primarily on your rabbit’s weight, his health, and what other foods he eats. Continue to offer unlimited grass and slowly increase veggies up to at least 2 cups per 6 pounds of body weight. For rabbits that get all the grass hay they want and fresh greens daily, . cup to . cup of timothy pellets per 6 pounds of rabbit is a maximum. Decrease the amount of pellets if weight gain becomes an issue.

- Seniors (6 years and older): Unless the older rabbit has problems with weight, you can continue a normal adult diet.

- Ill or underweight: If your rabbit is underweight or suffering from an illness that prevents him from eating hay and green foods, your veterinarian may recommend that you increase the amount of pellets. In some situations, the concentrated nutrients in the pellets may be beneficial to regaining strength, particularly after a disease that causes unhealthy weight loss. In these cases, please follow your veterinarian’s recommendations. (Chapter Nipping Common Health Problems in the Bud talks more about illnesses and their signs.)

- Overweight rabbits: In many cases, problems with weight result from overfeeding of pellets. (See this chapter’s “Coping with a chubby bunny” for more information.)

- Households with hay allergies: If you or some other person have hay allergies, you may have to leave loose hay out of the diet and rely on compressed hay cubes. In that case, continue feeding fresh foods as suggested, but offer the amount of timothy pellets in the amount recommended on the food bag for your pet’s weight; modify as needed.

If your rabbit doesn’t finish the pellets you provide him in a serving, throw them out before doling out the next serving. Don’t pour the new pellets on top of the old ones and don’t forget to wash out the bowl on a regular basis to reduce the likelihood of bacteria or mold.

Tip

One advantage of monitoring the amount of food your rabbit eats is that you’re better able to notice when your rabbit’s appetite decreases, which can often be a sign of illness. Catching problems early can make a big difference in diagnosing and treating health problems.

Our understanding of rabbit nutrition has changed a lot over the years. Rabbits meant for the meat and fur industry were fed pellets with high alfalfa and grain contents to maximize meat production and luxurious fur. Many breeders and rabbit show participants still feed rabbits this way and may advise you to do so, too. However, most nutritionists and veterinarians believe the track to good long-term health is to avoid alfalfa based foods (except for growing and pregnant rabbits) and eliminate grains altogether.

Coping with a Chubby Bunny

A common problem vets see in pet rabbits is obesity. Rabbits who eat too many pellets and don’t get enough exercise become dangerously overweight. (Refer to Figure 6-1 to see an obese rabbit). If your rabbit needs to slim down, you can help him by reducing his pellet intake or removing pellets altogether as long as he eats hay and greens instead. Restrict his diet to 1⁄8 to . cup of pellets for every 5 pounds of body weight. You can still give him treats but limit them to greens only. He can have as much grass hay as he wants, but certainly stick to timothy hay, rather than the higher-calorie alfalfa hay.

Tip

Not sure how much your rabbit weighs? And you can’t get him to sit still on the bathroom scale? Simply stand on your scale and make note of your weight. Then pick up your rabbit and get back on the scale while holding your pet. Make note of the new total weight. Finally, subtract your weight alone from the weight of you holding the rabbit. This number is your rabbit’s weight.

Giving Your Bunny Treats

You can feed the food in one sitting or throughout the day while training (Chapter Putting Boxing Gloves on Your Rabbit: Training, which covers training, offers tips on using treats as training rewards). With that in mind, some treats your rabbit may enjoy include

- Apple slices without seeds

- Cantaloupe

- Honeydew

- Kiwi

- Nectarines

- Peaches

- Pears

- Plums

- Strawberries

- Tomatoes (but not the vines or leaves — yes, tomatoes are fruit)

- Watermelon

Think outside the box when it comes to treats, especially if you’re watching your bunny’s figure. Dried apple twigs and branches are a much appreciated source of fun and fiber for rabbits. And don’t overlook the value of a good old-fashioned petting session as a reward.

Popping Pills

You may be wondering if you need to give your rabbit liquid or chewable vitamins and minerals in addition to her regular meal. If your pet is getting a balanced diet with grass hay and fresh foods at its core, you don’t need to provide vitamin or mineral supplements. The rabbit makes his very own nutritional supplements in the form of cecotropes (see Chapter Choosing the “Right” Rabbit).

The exceptions to this rule are when your rabbit is pregnant, nursing, recovering from an illness, or undergoing extreme stress. In these situations, check with a veterinarian first to see whether you need to use supplements.

Warning!

When it comes to vitamins and minerals, you can have too much of a good thing. Over-supplementing certain vitamins and minerals can cause toxicity or severe illness.

Remember that if you have a pet bunny, you don’t have to do much more than give her unlimited grass hay, plenty of fresh foods, limited amounts of high-quality pellets, and an ample supply of water. But if you have a female rabbit (doe) who is expecting a litter of baby rabbits (kits) or nursing her young, you need to do a bit more to get her safely through her pregnancy and nursing. Your veterinarian can offer guidance in such situations.

Forbidding Foods

Avoid foods high in carbohydrates (starches and sugars, for example). Many commercial treat foods contain high levels of starch and fat. Although a rabbit can eat small amounts without ill effect, he’ll start craving these foods. (Sound like a person?). Obesity and serious GI disease are just two of the resulting problems if his cravings are indulged. It’s always easier to prevent than to treat a disease.

Warning!

Think it’s cute to feed your begging bunny some crackers, a nibble of your pasta, or a snack of cereal? Think again.

Please avoid these foods at all cost:

- Beans (any kind)

- Breads

- Cereals

- Chocolate

- Corn

- Nuts

- Oats

- Peas

- Potatoes

- Refined sugar

- Seeds

- Wheat (and any other grains)

Warning!

Don’t let your bunny munch out of the cat or dog food bowl. Cat and dog food are much too high in protein and carbohydrates for your rabbit. If he eats too much of these foods, the results can be fatal.

Connie Isbell and Audrey Pavia