Cleaning Behind Those Great Big Ears and More

 

In This Chapter

• Having the right tools on hand
• Going through the list of grooming possibilities
• Brushing out loose hair
• Cutting nails and cleaning ears

Much like cats, rabbits are fastidious about their own bodies. They’re constantly grooming themselves, making sure that every little hair is perfectly in place. For that reason, shorthaired rabbits seldom need our help in the grooming department. However, weekly grooming is still a great idea because it

- Encourages social bonding with your pet

- Encourages a thorough examination to help detect abnormalities

- Reduces the amount of hair shed into the environment and into your house

Unlike cats, however, rabbits aren’t able to cope with (by vomiting) the excess hair that accumulate in their systems, leaving them prone to serious digestive issues. Fortunately, a weekly brushing is usually all it takes for your bunny to stay on the right track.

Cleaning your rabbit’s cage regularly can also help your rabbit stay clean and healthy. A clean cage translates into a clean rabbit. Despite their selfgrooming skill, however, rabbits need a little help from their human friends in this regard. As a bunny owner, you should provide regular grooming for your pet. This chapter shows you how to keep your rabbit’s cage and coat in tip-top shape.

Stocking Your Grooming Toolshed

Grooming your rabbit includes brushing, combing, clipping toenails, and examining your pet’s entire body to make sure that all is as it should be. The grooming process will probably take about an hour a week, depending on your rabbit’s coat. (Longer coats require more care.)

To properly groom your rabbit, you need the right tools at your disposal.

- Pin brush: A small pin brush, made for cat grooming, works great for rabbits. Pin brushes are made up of straight metal pins attached to a rubber base, and they’re great at trapping loose hair within the coat. Pin brushes cost anywhere from a couple of dollars to $8, depending on the quality of the brush and where you live. The less expensive brushes do the job well, so don’t feel compelled to spend a lot.

- Flea comb: A regular-size flea comb is a good tool. (Chapter So Many Breeds, So Lit tle Time helps you determine which breed has short and which has long hair.) A flea comb smoothes out the coat, traps loose hairs, and helps you find out whether fleas are a problem for your rabbit. Flea combs trap fleas in their metal teeth. They also lift flea feces from the coat, which is an indicator that fleas are present. They’re also good for removing mats (tangle of hair, often with undercoat) from all types of rabbit coats. (See “Running Down the Grooming Checklist,” later in this chapter, for more about checking for fleas.) Flea combs usually don’t cost more than $3.

- Wide-tooth comb: Useful on rabbits with long coats, wide-tooth pet combs separate the hairs and prevent matting. You can use this tool after using the pin brush.

- Bristle brush: After you brush and comb your rabbit’s coat, the bristle brush works as a finishing tool. Bristle brushes have soft nylon or hair bristles, and you can use them to give the coat a once over after you use the pin brush. The bristle brush picks up any remaining loose hairs and leaves your rabbit with a shiny coat, which is especially important if you’re grooming your rabbit for a show.

- Mat splitter or mat rake: Use these specially designed bladed tools on longhaired rabbits when mats are too severe to be removed by brushing or combing.

- Toenail clippers: Guillotine-type nail clippers designed for small dogs and cats work best on rabbit toenails. These clippers are small and sharp and are less likely to split the nail than a human nail clipper.

- Flashlight: For those who have bunnies with dark nails, a small flashlight will help you see where to clip nails.

Tip

- Styptic powder: In case a nail is cut too short, styptic powder tends to halt bleeding. It has an indefinite shelf life if kept dry. Although styptic powder is the preferred astringent, you can use flour or cornstarch in a pinch. What may work best is plain old direct pressure — simply put some pressure on the nail bed with a clean cloth for 1 to 2 minutes.

- Cotton swabs: Soft cotton-tipped swabs are handy for ears and eyes that may need tending; also good for applying styptic powder to nails.

You can purchase these items at a pet-supply store, through a mail-order catalog, or over the Internet. The Appendix lists several helpful resources.

Handling with Care

Rabbits are incredibly cute, and everyone wants to hold them. The problem is that most rabbits aren’t terribly thrilled about being held. Can you blame them? Their primary means of defense is being able to run away when they’re in danger. When all four of their feet are suspended off the ground, they have no way to escape should something scare them. Further, when a predator captures a rabbit in the wild, that predator picks the rabbit up and carries it off. Given this reality, it’s not hard to understand why being lifted and carried may be a scary sensation for a rabbit.

Taking proper precautions As a child, Audrey volunteered to be a rabbit carrier at her local 4-H club rabbit show. The rabbits flailed their paws against her as she carried them from their cages to the judge’s podium. By the end of the day, her stomach was completely covered with scratches. Rabbit toenails can be sharp, and when a bunny becomes insecure and starts to struggle, human skin usually pays the price. To prevent your stomach and arms from being torn to bits when you handle your rabbit, take the following precautions: - Trim your rabbit’s nails. If you keep your rabbit’s toenails trimmed, you’re less likely to be scratched should your pet struggle when you’re carrying him. - Train your rabbit. By slowly acclimating your rabbit to the sensation of being carried, you reduce the likelihood that he’ll start to flail when you’re holding him. - Wear safe clothes. Never carry a rabbit while your arms or torso is uncovered. If your rabbit panics, you’ll find out first hand just how painful rabbit scratches can be. - Monitor children. Kids love to carry their bunnies, but if they don’t do it right, they can end up covered in scratches. Rabbits have powerful hind legs, and the scratches that result from kicking while being held can be deep and painful. Prevent younger kids from carrying rabbits (especially large ones), and teach older kids the proper way to do it.

So does that mean that you can never pick up your rabbit? Of course not (although you should only carry him when you need to move him from one place to another). But it does mean that you need to use patience, sensitivity, and the right handling techniques to reduce or eliminate fear in your rabbit.

Before you attempt to start carrying your rabbit around, you need to gain your pet’s trust. If your rabbit is a baby, you’re in luck. If you start the handling process when your rabbit is young, your pet can grow up to be more comfortable being handled. If you have an adult rabbit that you’re just getting to know, you need to do a bit more work to win your bunny’s trust, especially if your new pet was mishandled in the past.

Building trust is a time commitment, but taking 15 minutes a day to work through the following numbered steps may speed the process. (This chapter’s “Need a lift?” sidebar offers an alternative method.)

1. Sit on the floor with your rabbit or place your rabbit on a table.

Cover the table with a blanket to protect its surface and to secure the rabbit’s footing.

2. Get him used to the feel of your hands.

Pet your rabbit and talk to him while you do it. Then try giving him some treats. (See Chapter Stocking Up on Carrots for more on feeding treats.)

Tip

Continue to pet your rabbit until you see that he’s starting to trust you. (See Chapter Thinking Like a Rabbit for information about how to read your rabbit’s body language.) Signs of trust are when your rabbit

• Approaches you on his own for touching (anytime)
• Puts his paws on you
• Shows relaxed body language during these 15-minute sessions

3. Place your rabbit against your body.

While the bunny is on the table or on the floor, gently move him toward you. Keeping his feet on the ground, restrain him against your chest or legs. If you want, you can gently hold him by the scruff (the loose skin on the back of his neck) with one hand while pressing his hindquarters against you with the other hand.

Warning!

Your rabbit may struggle at first if she isn’t used to being restrained. Use a calm voice and patience to show her that she’s safe despite the fact that you’re restraining her. If your rabbit starts to panic and struggles wildly, let him go. Start over again with the trust-building sessions until he seems comfortable with your touch and then try the gentle restraint again. After your bunny seems comfortable being gently restrained against your body, you can get him used to being lifted.

4. Slowly place one hand under your pet’s chest, just behind its front legs.

Make sure that you’re in a quiet place where you won’t be disturbed. Work from the table or floor area where you’ve been conducting your trust-building sessions because your rabbit feels safe here.

5. Slide your other hand underneath the rabbit’s rump to lift him.

Warning!

Always support the hind quarters to prevent injury to the spine. The most common injury is due to improper handling.

6. Lift upward with the hand that’s on the rabbit’s chest and support the rabbit’s body weight with the other hand.

7. Pull the rabbit’s body toward you as you lift, pointing the rabbit’s head toward the back of your elbow.

8. Slide your hand out from under the rabbit’s chest as you press his forequarters against your side.

The idea is to carry the rabbit under your arm as you would carry a football, as shown in Figure 7-1.

Figure 7-1: Touchdown! Holding your bunny like this will help him feel more secure.

Warning!

If your rabbit begins to struggle, hold him more securely against you. If he starts flailing, place him gently back on the table or the floor. Don’t drop your rabbit; you can seriously injure him.

After your rabbit is comfortable with you, hold him this way for several minutes and increase the time that you spend handling him.

9. When you can comfortably hold him in this position for at least 5 minutes, you can start moving around with him tucked under your arm.

Be prepared — your rabbit may get scared when he feels you moving. If he starts to struggle, stop and let him get comfortable again before you begin to walk again.

Warning!

Your veterinarian may have cause to place your rabbit on his back for examination of some kind, but please avoid putting your rabbit in this position unless it’s absolutely necessary. Rabbits may become extremely frightened when they’re placed on their backs and restrained. They may cease to struggle, but the current thinking is that’s only out of terror, not relaxation. Try to work with your rabbit by keeping his feet on solid ground. She’ll appreciate you for it!

Running Down the Grooming Checklist

Grooming sessions provide an opportunity to examine your rabbit thoroughly for certain health problems. Catching these problems early increases the likelihood of being able to cure your pet. Chapters Nipping Common Health Problems in the Bud and Coping with Other Health Woes and Aging Issues tell you more about these diseases and what to look for.

Remember

When going over your bunny with a brush, make sure that you mentally run through this grooming checklist:

- Look for parasites. Rabbits are just as susceptible to these pests as dogs and cats are, especially if they live or play outdoors. When grooming, keep an eye out for fleas and ticks. Ticks appear as dark round protrusions about 1⁄8 to 1/4 inch. Fleas are small, dark, and difficult to see. However, their feces (flea dirt) are readily visible, especially on a light-colored rabbit. They appear as small, dark flecks on the skin along the rabbit’s back, neck, and especially rump. If you find parasites on your pet, contact your vet for information on how to safely rid your rabbit of these pests. Your vet can provide you with rabbit-safe products that can do the job. (You can find more parasite and vet talk in Chapter Nipping Common Health Problems in the Bud.)

- Seek out lumps and sores. As you go over your rabbit with a brush or comb, look out for any lumps or open sores on your pet’s body. (The more familiar you become with your rabbit’s body, the more you’ll be able to notice such problems.) Lumps shouldn’t be ignored. Scabs, sores, and crusty areas can be a sign of parasites or a bacterial infection. Sores on the feet and hocks can be the result of a damp or dirty environment and improper flooring.

- Check eyes, ears, and teeth. Examine your rabbit’s eyes up close to make sure that no discharge or swelling is present. Ears should be looked at for signs of parasites or bacterial infection, especially in lopeared breeds (see Chapter So Many Breeds, So Lit tle Time). There’s more ear talk in this chapter’s “Cleaning Your Bunny’s Ears.” Teeth? Be sure your bunny’s chompers are on the straight and narrow (see Chapter Nipping Common Health Problems in the Bud).

- Feel along the jaw line for any lumps. The sides should be symmetrical. Any obvious lumps or lack of symmetry should be examined by a vet.

Bypassing the Bath

Unlike dogs, rabbits don’t need regular bathing. In fact, you’re better off not bathing a rabbit at all. The bath stresses them terribly and exposes them to injury because they’ll struggle. In short, skip the bath.

If your rabbit needs help keeping clean on occasion, you can do some spot cleaning. If your bunny stepped in something sticky or irritating to the skin, remove it right away. Pet-supply stores sell waterless shampoos, which you can spray directly onto your pet’s coat. Simply saturate the area with the waterless shampoo product and follow the directions on the label.

Need a lift? The best type of lift for a rabbit is one that makes him feel secure. You may choose to use a lift described in this chapter or a modified version of either — as long as it’s safe for you and your rabbit. 1. Kneel down and slide one hand down the rabbit’s side while petting her head with your other hand. 2. Slide the arm at your rabbit’s side under his chest and move your petting hand down under to support his hindquarters, as in this figure. 3. Scoop him closely to you and hold firmly, not tightly. Be certain to support your rabbit’s hind end and keep him from slipping out of your arms. 4. Stand up slowly, keeping your rabbit close to you. Hug the rabbit if he starts to struggle. Don’t drop him, especially from a standing position. 5. To put your rabbit down, old him close until you’re back in a kneeling position and then carefully let him go on the floor. All of this will take time and practice. Consider a small treat to reward your rabbit and help her relax a bit when you put her down.

Tip

When you’re dealing with a slightly soiled bunny, a dry bath approach is best whenever possible. Use a cornstarch-based baby powder that doesn’t contain talc (which has been linked to cancer). Place the bunny in your lap on a bunched towel so that he feels secure and apply the cornstarch to the soiled areas, working the powder into the fur. As the cornstarch coats the soiled areas, you can gently brush away the debris.

Your bunny’s hind end may become extremely soiled or wet if he develops soft stools or is wet with urine. Your vet should diagnose the cause of this problem, but it’s up to you to clean your rabbit and protect his sensitive skin. In these cases, a dry bath may not be sufficient. Follow these steps to properly wash your bun’s bottom:

1. Fill two containers or a double sink with 2 to 3 inches of lukewarm water.

2. Dip the rabbit’s rear end in the water.

Do not submerge the entire rabbit!

3. Use a wash cloth, soft brush, or your hand to loosen the material.

4. Take the rabbit out of the water, apply a very small amount of shampoo (suitable for cats; don’t use baby shampoo), and thoroughly massage the area with your hands.

5. Dip him into the clean water of the other container and rinse off the soap and debris.

6. Towel dry him, getting as much water out as possible.

Warning!

Rabbits can quickly become hypothermic, so consider using a blow dryer on low, being sure not to burn his skin. Breeds with dense or plush coats may take longer to dry.

7. Put him in a cage (in a warm room) with towels to continue to absorb water.

He’ll finish grooming himself.

If you need to repeat or rinse more, you can let the rabbit take a break on some towels, change the water, and rinse again.

Removing matted feces and urine can be incredibly difficult if it has accumulated, causing the skin underneath to become very sore and irritated. In fact, the skin may even tear if you try too hard to remove this material. You may need to have a veterinarian give your sedated rabbit a thorough cleaning. You can ask the vet to clip the hair at this time so that future cleaning won’t be as difficult. If in doubt, have a vet check it out! In many cases like this, a vet is a better choice than a groomer, who may not be experienced in the finer points of rabbit care.

Breaking Out the Brush

Rabbits are good at brushing their own coats and using their tongues to clean their fur and smooth it down. Rabbits left to do their own grooming are also notorious for leaving loose hairs around. If you have an indoor rabbit who hops around the carpet and on the furniture, shedding will become a nuisance.

The way to help remedy this loose hair situation is to brush your rabbit regularly. Brushing reduces the loose fur around the house, helps prevent intestinal blockages caused by ingested hair, and also gives you an opportunity to examine your pet closely for lumps, bumps, and other health problems. (See Chapter Nipping Common Health Problems in the Bud for more on health issues.) Grooming time also provides a great opportunity for bonding with your pet.

Remember

You want to make grooming a pleasant experience for your rabbit, so brush your pet gently to avoid causing him any discomfort or pain. Rabbits have sensitive skin, and your bunny will come to dislike grooming time if you’re too rough with him. Likewise, when you handle your rabbit for toenail clipping or any other grooming procedure, be patient and gentle.

Brushing short to medium coats

If your rabbit has a short to medium coat typical of most rabbit breeds, you need to set aside an hour a week for grooming.

Warning!

Rex rabbit breeds have ultra short coats, so you need to take extra care when you brush him because you don’t want to damage the skin. Rex rabbits, in fact, need very infrequent brushing.

To brush a short to medium coat rabbit:

1. Find a comfortable place to sit while grooming your pet.

2. Assemble your grooming tools within reach.

See the section “Stocking Your Grooming Toolshed,” earlier in this chapter.

3. Hold your bunny securely in your lap.

Stabilizing your bunny against your body will help prevent him from struggling and hurting himself.

Tip

4. Brush your rabbit with the pin brush, moving in the direction that the coat grows to minimize breakage of the hair.

If you notice many loose hairs in your brush after a few swipes on his coat and it’s spring or fall, your rabbit may be molting. (See the “A time to shed, a time to brush” sidebar, later in this chapter.)

Don’t brush his face, feet, ears, or tail. Stay away from these areas because they don’t have a lot of hair. When brushing your rabbit, be sure to be gentle and talk to your pet in a quiet voice to reassure him. If he’s reluctant to be brushed, try offering him some healthy treats to nibble on while you’re brushing. The treats will distract him and help him associate grooming time with something pleasant.

5. Go through your rabbit’s coat with your flea comb.

Check for fleas that may get caught in the comb. Check also for black specs on the teeth of the comb, which may be flea feces. If you’re unsure, place these specs on a paper towel and place a drop of water on them. If the wet area of the towel turns red, your rabbit has fleas. If you’re still not certain if your rabbit has fleas, ask your veterinarian to make a diagnosis.

6. Comb out any hair matting.

Flea combs work well for this task.

7. Give your rabbit the once over with the bristle brush if you have one.

This brush picks up any loose hairs you missed and helps give the coat a nice shine.

Brushing long coats

If you have an Angora, Jersey Wooley, or other longhair rabbit breed (see Chapter So Many Breeds, So Lit tle Time), you need to brush your pet on a daily basis, regardless of the season. These rabbits are extremely prone to hair matting. The hair is not only long but fine textured.

To brush a longhaired rabbit:

1. Find a comfortable place to sit while you’re grooming your pet.

2. Assemble your grooming tools within reach.

See “Stocking Your Grooming Toolshed.”

3. Situate your rabbit comfortably in your lap.

4. Start with your pin brush.

5. Part sections of your rabbit’s coat and brush from the area where the hair attaches to the skin outward, in the direction the hair is growing.

Remember

Be sure to loosen any areas that appear to be matting. If you do this every day, you’ll eventually weed out all the mats, and your rabbit’s coat won’t have a problem. Flea combs can be great for getting out mats if you have enough space between the mat and the skin to get the comb started.

6. Move on to the wide-tooth comb and bristle brush.

Gently comb in the direction that hair grows with both of these tools. Start with the wide-tooth comb and finish up with the bristle brush. Then move on to ear cleaning and toenail clipping.

Tip

If you aren’t comfortable caring for your longhair rabbit’s coat yourself or simply don’t have time, you can take your rabbit to a professional groomer for grooming or shearing. Make certain that the groomer you go to regularly works on rabbits, because these delicate creatures need special handling to prevent them from getting injured during the grooming process.

Another option is to trim your longhair rabbit’s fur yourself. Using a pair of sharp scissors, you can cut the hair back to a couple of inches in length so that it’s easier to maintain (and easier on your bunny’s tummy!). Don’t cut your rabbit’s fur all the way to the skin. Not only is this dangerous because you may accidentally cut your rabbit, but your rabbit does need to have some fur on his body. His coat acts as a natural insulator against heat and cold.

Tip

If you come across mats in your rabbit’s fur, you can use a mat splitter or mat rake to gently break up the mats. Don’t use scissors for this task because you risk snipping down to the skin. First try to remove matted fur with a flea comb or fine-toothed comb. Don’t pull up on your rabbit’s fur as you work on the mat because your rabbit’s skin is very fragile. If the mats are severe, get help from your veterinarian. (A groomer is not likely to be skilled in the finer points of bunny grooming.)

Clipping It Not Quite in the Bud

Rabbit toenails grow constantly, just like human fingernails, and so they need to be clipped regularly (about every 6 to 8 weeks). If you don’t clip your rabbit’s toenails, they’ll become excessively long, and your pet will soon have trouble walking. He’ll also be in danger of catching a long toenail on his cage wire or on your carpet and may possibly tear the nail right out of his paw.

A time to shed, a time to brush Rabbits shed like dogs and cats and seem to drop their fur most often during spring and fall. However, because rabbits are indoors under all kinds of lighting and temperature conditions, they can shed all year round. During the heaviest shedding times, brush your rabbit more often, especially on the rump area where the most loose fur seems to accumulate. (Some people find that the hair comes out simply by pulling at it with their fingers.) Should your rabbit ever shed to the point where bald patches appear, contact your veterinarian. This loss of hair may be a sign of hormonal abnormalities, parasites, or a disease.

Another good reason to keep your rabbit’s nails trimmed is for your own protection. Whenever you handle your rabbit, you come into contact with those nails. Should your pet become insecure and start to kick and struggle, long nails may do a good amount of damage to your skin. (The section “Handling with Care” in this chapter provides details on the proper way to handle your rabbit.)

Tip

You can tell whether your rabbit’s nails are too long because the nails extend beyond the edge of the fur on the rabbit’s foot. If you’re not sure, have your veterinarian take a look at your bunny’s feet to let you know whether he needs a trim.

The good news is that you don’t need to clip your rabbit’s toenails every time you groom him. Simply evaluate the length of the nails whenever you sit down to groom him. If they’re starting to get long, then it’s time to get out the clippers.

Tip

Rabbits, like most pets, don’t enjoy having their nails trimmed, so it’s best for you to start clipping with the aid of another person. This helper, preferably an experienced person, is the one to hold your rabbit while you do the actual nail clipping. Sources for experienced people are rabbit breeders, other experienced rabbit owners (find through rabbit organizations), veterinary staff, pet stores, and groomers that care for rabbits.

To clip your rabbit’s nails:

1. Have your helper position the rabbit on her lap with the rabbit’s rear resting against the helper’s lower abdomen.

Make sure that both you and the handler are wearing long-sleeved shirts of heavy material because the potential for getting scratched is high with this grooming procedure. The helper should have a secure grip on the bunny without hurting her.

If your bunny tends to struggle no matter what you do, try wrapping her in a towel first, gently exposing the nails you want to clip.

Tip

2. Gently grasp one of the rabbit’s front legs.

3. Turn the leg so the dewclaw (the nail on the inside of the foot) is visible.

4. Examine the nail to determine where the quick is.

Warning!

The quick is the vein that extends from the toe to nearly the tip of the nail. It appears as a dark line in the nail. You want to clip the part of the nail that does not contain the quick (about 1⁄8 inch before the quick), as cutting the quick makes the nail bleed. If you’re having trouble locating the quick or have a rabbit with black nails, get a flashlight and shine it through the backside of the nail toward you. The vein will become visible.

Tip

In the event that you should accidentally cut into your rabbit’s vein, making the nail bleed, don’t panic. Just dab a bit of styptic powder (available at drug stores) onto the nail, and the bleeding will stop.

5. Cut the tip of the nail off, as shown in Figure 7-2, repeating for each of the five nails on each of the rabbit’s front feet.

Figure 7-2: Clipping should be painless for all parties involved. Mind that quick!

6. Relax for a while.

7. Have your helper hold the rabbit again, so you can start working on the hind nails.

This time, your helper should grasp the rabbit in the way described earlier in this chapter and shown in Figure 7-1. This will make the back paws accessible to you. Make certain that your rabbit is comfortable in the position that she’s placed. Otherwise, she’ll struggle and make clipping her nails impossible.

8. Proceed with the back nails in the same way that you did with the front.

You may find that the back nails are a bit tougher to cut than the front because they’re thicker. So be prepared to use a little more force to clip those hind nails. It’s important to note that rear legs are more prone to fracture during struggling if you pull the hind leg sideways rather than straight back.

Tip

If clipping nails sounds too overwhelming to you as a first-time rabbit owner, you can always take your rabbit to the veterinarian, groomer, or experienced rabbit owner for nail clipping. Ask your vet to show you how to do the nail clipping so that you don’t have to have it done at the vet’s office, which can be a hassle and expensive, too.

Cleaning Your Bunny’s Ears

A rabbit’s ears are his great showpiece, so you want to help him keep them clean. You can check them for cleanliness during your bunny’s regular grooming time, as long as you’re checking the ears at least once a week. (Don’t worry; your lop ear won’t get hurt if you check him out because his ears are soft and floppy.)

Remember

Whenever you groom your rabbit, thoroughly check his ears for waxy buildup, dirt, or a foul smell. If you see debris in your rabbit’s ears, gently lift it out with a cotton-tipped swab or cotton ball. You can also ask your veterinarian for a solution that you can use to wipe the ears clean. If wax buildup is a problem, be careful not to push the wax into the ear canal. Wax actually has a protective purpose, so don’t routinely remove it from a rabbit’s ears. And never stick cotton swabs down into the ear canal.

You should do fine managing minor cases of dirt and wax. However, redness or a crusty discharge in the ear can indicate an ear mite infestation (see Chapter Nipping Common Health Problems in the Bud), which means you should consult your veterinarian.

Connie Isbell and Audrey Pavia