Dressing Up Horses with Saddles

In This Chapter

• Checking out the basic makeup of all saddles
• Understanding saddle differences
• Discovering details about saddle pads
• Finding out about fitting

The saddle is probably the most important piece of equipment in horseback riding, especially if you’re a new rider. The saddle helps keep you on the horse’s back, makes your ride more comfortable, and assists you in finding the right position when you ride. Saddles also help the horse. A saddle that fits properly distributes the rider’s weight evenly over the horse’s back, preventing injury.

When you’re taking lessons, your instructor provides you with the saddle and pad you need for the horse you’re riding. If you decide to buy your own horse someday, which I discuss in Chapter Taking the Plunge by Buying a Horse, you can find this equipment at a tack store.

In this chapter, I tell you about both Western and English saddles and the differences in their design. I also discuss saddle pads and the importance of fitting saddles correctly.

Going Over the Basic Makeup of a Saddle

Remember

Regardless of whether a saddle is for Western, hunt seat, or dressage riding, its basic construction is the same. Following is a description of the basic parts of a saddle that are common to all types:

- Tree: The tree of the saddle is essentially the saddle’s skeleton. Everything on the saddle is built around the tree, which can be wood, fiberglass, or another synthetic material. The size and shape of the tree is different for each kind of saddle. (Treeless saddles are also available; see the nearby sidebar for details.)

Unframed: Treeless saddles A recent invention in the world of saddles (I say recent because saddles have been around for centuries) is the treeless saddle. This type of saddle, which is available in both Western and English styles, doesn’t have a wooden or fiberglass frame like other saddles do. In fact, it doesn’t have a tree at all — hence the name! The theory behind treeless saddles is that they move more easily with the horse than a treed saddle does. This flexibility allows unrestricted movement and reduces the likelihood that the horse’s back will become sore. Unlike treed saddles, which must be fitted to a particular horse, treeless saddles are one-size-fits all; thus, these saddles are particularly useful for horses who are hard to fit. From the outside, a treeless saddle looks just like a regular saddle. Although some riders say they feel a difference when they ride in a treeless saddle, others can’t tell a thing. Regardless, treeless saddles are fine for beginners; the rider’s level of experience makes no difference. Debate rages throughout the horse community over whether treeless saddles are better for the horse. Some people believe these saddles don’t provide enough support and can harm a horse’s back, claiming they don’t distribute the rider’s weight properly. Opponents disagree, saying that the lack of a tree makes the saddle more comfortable for the horse.

The width of the tree determines whether a given saddle fits a horse. Horses with wide shoulders need saddles with wide trees; horses with narrow shoulders need narrow trees. For more information, see the later section titled “Fitting a horse.”

- Pommel: The pommel is the front of the saddle.

- Seat: The seat is the center of the saddle where you sit.

- Cantle: The back of the seat of the saddle is the cantle.

- Stirrups: All riding saddles have stirrups for the rider’s feet. The fenders (Western) or leathers (English) are the part of the stirrup that attaches to the saddle.

Leather is the most common outer material for saddles, although synthetic material is also catching on. But that’s where the similarities end. The shape of the tree, the style of stirrups, and the general shape of the saddle determine whether the saddle’s Western or English.

The Heavy Hitters: Western Saddles

Western saddles are easy to tell apart from English saddles (which I cover later in this chapter). Their size and shape varies considerably from the English saddle, as does their purpose. Every Western saddle has

• A deep seat
• A high pommel
• A horn, or part of the saddle that projects upward from the pommel
• A high cantle
• Wide fenders

Some Western saddles have a flank cinch in addition to a front cinch. Cinches are the straps that hold the saddle on the horse. The stirrup is usually made from wood and covered with leather or synthetic material if the rest of the saddle is synthetic. See the earlier “Going Over the Basic Makeup of a Saddle” section for info on saddle parts.

Western saddles are notoriously heavier than English saddles, and they can weigh anywhere from 15 to 50 pounds, depending on the type of saddle, what it’s made from, and what kinds of adornment it features.

Most Western saddles have tooling, another word for decorations etched into the saddle leather. Some saddles have very elaborate tooling; others have barely any at all. Western saddles also have conchos, or metal studs placed in various positions on the saddle. Conchos often serve as anchors for saddle strings, leather straps that hang from the saddle and can be used to tie on accessories such as rain ponchos, saddle bags, and other items. In fancy Western show saddles, conchos are sterling silver.

Most Western saddles come in different tree (frame) sizes:

- Semi–Quarter Horse trees, the narrowest of the three, are for horses with high withers and narrow shoulders.

- Quarter Horse trees are medium width and are for horses with medium-sized withers and shoulders.

- Full Quarter Horse trees are the widest of all and are meant for horses with low withers and wide shoulders.

Tip

The actual measurement of each tree width varies from brand to brand, so unfortunately, no tree-width standard exists. The only way to know whether a saddle fits a particular horse for certain is to try it on the horse’s back. I explain how to fit saddles later in this chapter.

To the untrained eye, all Western saddles look basically alike. They may vary in color depending on the stain of the leather (anything from black to pale tan) or the dyed color of the synthetic material, but overall, telling one type of Western saddle from another can be difficult.

The truth is that Western saddles come in several different styles, depending on their projected use. Each of these saddles has features that make it a better choice for certain activities. The most common Western saddle types are the pleasure saddle, the barrel racing saddle, the roping saddle, and the trail saddle; I cover them all in the following sections.

Remember

If you’re just beginning to ride, any one of these saddles can suit you fine. As you progress in your riding and get involved in competitive equine activities, you may want to choose another saddle as your primary one. Your instructor or trainer can advise you on the type of saddle most suited to your activity.

The pleasure saddle

Pleasure saddles are used not only for trail riding but also for show. These saddles are usually lighter in weight than other Western saddles because they don’t need to be as strong as working saddles (such as barrel racing or roping saddles).

Riders using a pleasure saddle find themselves balanced toward the back of the saddle. This design gives the rider more comfort when riding on trail. Check out a pleasure saddle in Figure 8-1.

Figure 8-1: A pleasure saddle balances the rider toward the back of the horse for greater comfort.

The barrel racing saddle

Barrel racing saddles are so named because their design makes them a top choice for gymkhana riders, where sharp turns around poles or barrels at high speed are the norm.

Barrel racing saddles have a very deep seat to help keep the rider in the saddle when the horse is running fast and turning sharply. The horn on a barrel racing saddle is higher, too, giving the rider something to grab onto during turns if needed. Many barrel racing saddles also have a seat made from rough material, which gives the rider better grip. Figure 8-2 shows a barrel racing saddle.

Figure 8-2: Barrel racing saddles have deep seats and higher horns.

The roping saddle

As the name suggests, roping saddles (see Figure 8-3) are a favorite of riders who rope cattle. Here’s why:

- The saddle is designed to help balance the rider when he or she is standing up in the saddle, throwing the rope.

- After roping the calf, the rider ties the other end of the rope to the horn of the saddle; the saddle’s horn and tree are made to be very strong so the pull of the calf doesn’t break them.

- The swells of the saddle — that is, the contoured shape of it — are made so the rope has the least possible leverage on the horn when a calf is at the end of it.

- The seat is rough to help keep the rider in place.

Figure 8-3: A roping saddle is designed to reduce the pull of the rope on the horn.

The trail saddle

Although all Western saddles are designed for comfort on long rides, the trail saddle (see Figure 8-4) pays particular attention to this feature. The seat is deep to help keep the rider secure in various types of terrain. Many trail saddles give wider swing to the fenders (parts of the stirrup attached to the saddle) to enable riders to put their legs behind them when going uphill and in front of them when going downhill.

Trail saddles are also designed to provide maximum comfort to the horse when worn for long periods of time. They’re lighter than many other Western saddles and allow the horse to cool off more quickly because they have shorter skirts.

Figure 8-4: Trail saddles are designed for comfort during long rides.

On the Smaller Side: English Saddles

English saddles are considerably smaller than Western saddles, and they can be harder to stay in for many riders because their seats aren’t as deep. However, if you learn to ride in an English saddle, you’re unlikely to have problems staying on a horse in a Western saddle. English riders rely a lot on balance to stay mounted.

“Going Over the Basic Makeup of a Saddle,” earlier in this chapter, can tell you more about parts. All English saddles have

• A pommel
• A cantle
• A flap, or large piece of leather that rests under rider’s leg
• A skirt, or piece of leather that covers the stirrup bar
• Panels, or cushioning between the saddle’s seat and the horse

To keep the saddle on the horse, a girth is added. Separate from the saddle, it attaches to either side of the saddle and goes under the horse’s belly.

Some English saddles have knee rolls, which help keep the rider’s leg in the proper position. The shape of the saddle differs, depending on the type of English saddle, and the depth of the seat can vary. On English saddles, the stirrup, called an iron, is metal, usually stainless steel.

English saddles come in different tree sizes for horses with different shoulder widths: narrow, medium, and wide. They vary from brand to brand.

The colors of English saddles are generally the same — dark brown — although many dressage saddles also come in black. Synthetic English saddles are usually black as well, even if they’re not dressage saddles.

In the following sections, I describe three popular English saddles: the all-purpose saddle, the close-contact saddle, and the dressage saddle.

The all-purpose saddle

Hunt seat riders who do a lot of trail riding but also like to do jumping and flatwork (basically working in the arena without jumping) often prefer an all-purpose saddle.

All-purpose saddles (you can see one in Figure 8-5) have a flap that’s cut far forward to accommodate riders who want to jump but don’t do it often enough to require a close-contact jumping saddle (see the next section). These saddles are more comfortable for trail riding than a close-contact saddle because the seat is slightly deeper and the rider’s position is less forward.

The close-contact saddle

Hunt seat riders may use close-contact saddles. These saddles do as their name suggests: They allow close contact between the horse and rider. The rider is better able to cue the horse with his or her legs because the saddle provides very little interference.

Riders use close-contact saddles for jumping. The seat is shallow, which enables the rider to lift him- or herself out of it when going over an obstacle. The design of the saddle also helps the rider stay in a forward position, which is necessary for jumping. Check out a close-contact saddle in Figure 8-6.

The dressage saddle

People who study the discipline of dressage usually ride in a dressage saddle (see Figure 8-7), although some riders at the lower levels use an all-purpose saddle instead (see the earlier section on this saddle).

Figure 8-5: All-purpose saddles are designed for use by hunt seat riders who work on the flat, with occasional jumping.

Figure 8-6: Hunt seat riders who do a lot of jumping often prefer the shallower seat of the close-contact saddle.

Figure 8-7: Dressage saddles have a deep seat.

Dressage saddles are designed with a deep seat that allows the rider to sit more deeply on the horse, a necessity for this discipline (see Chapters Enjoying the Walk, Bumping Up Your Skills with the Jog or Trot, and Getting on the Fast Track with the Lope or Canter for more information on the dressage position). Riders wear the stirrups on a dressage saddle slightly longer than those of an all-purpose or close contact saddle, although stirrups still have to be short enough for riders to effectively cue with their legs.

Dressage saddles feature flaps that have a squared off shape rather than the rounder shape of all-purpose or close-contact saddles. Because the seat is deeper, the pommel and cantle are higher too.

Setting Yourself Up with Saddle Pads

All saddle types in this chapter require saddle pads. These pads fit between the saddle and the horse to protect a horse’s back from chafing and saddle sores and to aid in distributing the rider’s weight.

Western, all-purpose, close-contact, and dressage saddles all use specific pads because of differences in the shape of the saddles as well as in the pressure points on the horse’s back. Here’s a rundown of how the pads vary (see Figure 8-8):

- Western pads: Pads for Western saddles are usually about an inch thick or thicker, and they’re made from synthetic fleece, wool, or felt. Some contain other synthetic materials designed to provide more cushion between the horse’s back and the saddle. Wool or synthetic fleece pads designs, you can also use a synthetic or wool pad and put a thin Navajostyle blanket on top of it.

- All-purpose and close-contact pads: Hunt seat riders typically use white synthetic fleece pads underneath all-purpose or close-contact saddles, which are basically the same shape as the pad. These pads are made from fleece or another synthetic material and are designed to help reduce pressure on the horse’s back. They’re usually about an inch thick, and they typically come in white or off-white, although you may be able to find other colors.

- Dressage pads: Dressage riders usually use square, quilted, cotton pads. Dressage pads don’t provide much cushion between the horse and saddle, although they do serve to protect the saddle from sweat and prevent chafing on the horse’s back. These pads are about half an inch thick, and they usually come in white, although solid colors and even fun patterns are showing up more often in these pads.

Figure 8-8: Western, all-purpose, and dressage saddle pads are specially designed for use in corresponding saddles.

Playing Matchmaker as You Fit Saddles

Making a match between horse and saddle takes skill. Although some horses have easy-to-fit backs, others can be tricky. Fitting the rider is a bit easier, although seat size and other subtle nuances can mean the difference between a comfortable ride and a more painful one.

Fitting a horse

One of the most difficult aspects of horsemanship is making sure the saddle fits the horse. Because horses’ backs differ from one another, you can’t just toss any old saddle on a given horse. Doing so only gets you a horse with a sore back, impaired performance, and even a bad attitude. Ensuring that the horse is wearing a saddle that fits right takes practice.

If you’re taking lessons on a school horse, your instructor should have enough concern for his or her horses that saddle-fitting is a priority. Hopefully, your instructor is using saddles that fit the horses in his or her care. (For info on choosing an instructor, see Chapter School’s in Session: Taking Riding Lessons.)

Tip

If you’re shopping for a saddle for your own horse (could happen someday! — see Chapter Taking the Plunge by Buying a Horse), get the help of an experienced horse person — preferably a horse trainer — to find the right saddle for your horse.

In the following sections, I tell you how to fit Western and English saddles on a horse.

Western saddles

To make sure that a Western saddle fits correctly, follow these steps:

1. Place the saddle on the horse’s back with a 1-inch-or-so-thick saddle pad underneath it (see Figure 8-9).

2. Tighten the cinch so that the cinch is snug but comfortable.

3. Have a rider sit in the saddle with his or her feet in the stirrups.

4. Examine the width of the saddle’s tree, or frame, as it sits on the horse; compare it to the shape of the horse’s back.

Figure 8-9: Fit a Western saddle with a pad already on the horse.

Tip

You can place your fingers sideways (on a flat hand) between the saddle  and the top of the horse’s shoulder to help determine the width of the tree. Be sure you can fit at least three fingers between the arch of the pommel and the horse’s withers (Chapter Head to Hoof: The Mind and Mechanics of a Horse includes a diagram showing the withers and other parts of the horse). If the fit is so tight that you can’t squeeze your fingers between the saddle and the top of the horse’s shoulder, the tree is too wide for your horse. If you can put your entire hand between the saddle and the top of the horse’s shoulder, the tree is too narrow.

English saddles

To determine whether an English saddle fits a particular horse, follow these steps:

1. Put the saddle on the horse without using a saddle pad.

2. Tighten the girth so that the saddle is comfortably secure.

3. Have someone sit in the saddle with his or her feet in the stirrups.

4. Using a flat hand, slide your fingers underneath the pommel, near the horse’s withers.

Your fingers should fit comfortably between the horse and saddle. Be sure that you can place at least three fingers between the horse’s withers and the arch below the pommel. See Chapter Head to Hoof: The Mind and Mechanics of a Horse for a diagram showing the withers and other parts of the horse.

5. Have a helper lift the horse’s left foreleg and pull it forward while your fingers are between the top of the horse’s shoulder blade and the pommel.

As the horse’s shoulder moves, check that the saddle doesn’t impede shoulder movement. Perform the same test on the horse’s right side.

6. Stand behind the horse and look through the saddle.

If the saddle fits, you should see a tunnel of light shining through. If you don’t see any light, the saddle is too snug. Also, make sure that the saddle isn’t too long for the horse. The seat panel shouldn’t reach past the main part of the back onto the loins.

After checking the saddle for size, you can put the saddle on with a saddle pad underneath and get ready to ride (see Figure 8-10). Chapter Working from the Ground, Saddling, and Bridling tells you how to saddle up.

Fitting yourself

After determining that a saddle fits a particular horse (see the preceding section), your next task is to make sure it fits you. If it doesn’t, you’ll be uncomfortable and off balance when you ride. Luckily, finding a saddle that suits you is much easier than finding one that suits the horse. I explain how to fit yourself on Western and English saddles in the following sections.

Figure 8-10: With English saddles, put on the saddle pad only after you’ve determined that the saddle fits.

Tip

The seats of Western and English saddles are measured in inches. If you’re taking lessons in a particular saddle that you like, find out the inch measurement of the seat. Armed with this information, you can rule out saddles that don’t have the same seat measurement. You can also sit in different saddles in a tack shop and take note of which size suits you best. Ask whether a saddle fitter is on staff to help you determine fit, because deciding on your own can be tough.

Here’s how to find a saddle that fits your body:

- Western saddles: Adjust the stirrups to the proper length (see Chapter Working from the Ground, Saddling, and Bridling for information on how to do so). Sit in the saddle with your feet in the stirrups, and judge the comfort of the saddle. You should have about 4 inches between the front of your body and the pommel. Your derriere needs to rest against the base of the cantle but not be squashed against the rise of the cantle. Ride in the saddle for half an hour to determine whether it still feels comfortable after you’ve been in it awhile.

- English saddles: Sit in the seat with your stirrups at the length you prefer (see Chapter Working from the Ground, Saddling, and Bridling for information on determining the right stirrup length) and gauge how comfortable the saddle feels. You should have about 4 inches in front of your body and 4 inches behind it. Ride in the saddle while a trainer or another person experienced in English riding watches you and points out any apparent problems with the saddle.

by Audrey Pavia with Shannon Sand