In This Chapter
- Adopting a rabbit in need
- Knowing what to do with a stray
- Considering bunnies from breeders
- Selecting a healthy rabbit
As a potential rabbit owner, you
have several options when it comes to finding the bunny you’ve decided upon
(see Chapter Choosing
the “Right” Rabbit). The source you ultimately choose depends on exactly what
you’re looking for. Before you go, think about what you want to do with your
rabbit — keep him as a pet or show him — and put that scenario together with
the information in this chapter.
Donning Your Cape: Rescuing a Rabbit
The true guardian angels of the
rabbit world are those who take care of unwanted rabbits and struggle to find
them good homes. These people are found working in animal shelters and within
private rabbit rescue groups.
Tip
Shelters are the very same that take in unwanted dogs and cats and from where most municipal animal control agencies work. Rescue groups are private, nonprofit organizations mostly run by volunteers. You can look for a rescue group in your area in the Appendix, by contacting the House Rabbit Society, or by looking on the Internet for a group in your area.
By adopting a rabbit from a
shelter or other organization, you’re not only getting a pet, you’re saving a
rabbit from a gloomy, uncertain fate. Rabbit rescues and shelters are overwhelmed
with unwanted bunnies, and, sadly, tens of thousands are euthanized each year.
In addition, by taking one rabbit home, you’re making room for another at a
shelter. You’re also spreading the good word about the many merits of rabbit
adoption.
Presenting the problem
You may be wondering why rabbits
would need rescuing. Do that many unwanted rabbits exist? If you’re familiar
with the pet overpopulation that plagues cats and dogs, then you’ll easily
understand the situation with rabbits. It’s virtually the same dilemma. A lot
of domesticated rabbits are alive in this country, and not enough of them have
homes.
Most of the rabbits that are
homeless are in this situation through no fault of their own. Common reasons
given for abandoning rabbits to shelters and rescue groups include
- The kids (or sadly, the adults) got tired of taking care of the rabbit.
- I didn’t know that rabbits like to chew on everything (see Chapter Reckoning with a Bad Bunny for training help).
- We got a baby rabbit for Easter and then it grew up (see Chapter Jumping into Rabbit Ownership).
- The adolescent rabbit’s behavior is difficult to handle. I don’t want to deal with it.
- My rabbit is urinating or defecating outside his litter box. (Again, see Chapter Shacking Up with an Indoor Rabbit for training help.)
- My rabbit has chronic health problems, and I no longer have the money or time handle them.
Seeking the solution
When unwanted rabbits come to
animal shelters or rescue groups, they’re put up for adoption.
Remember
In order to ensure that you’ll provide a good, permanent home for the rabbit you’re adopting, be prepared to answer some questions. Each group works a bit differently, but some shelters and nearly all rescue groups
- Screen to make sure that you have the facilities and willingness to provide a lasting home for a rabbit. Don’t be offended by their questions. Remember that these people have the best interests of the rabbit in mind. The last thing anyone wants is for a rabbit to be adopted, only to be returned when problems arise.
- Require that you pay an adoption fee. This is to help offset the cost of caring for the rabbit you have adopted. These fees help the groups continue to operate so they can provide help to rabbits in need.
- Have only a few rabbits available at any given time in your area. You’ll probably be able to choose from only a handful of bunnies, but have an open mind and give all the bunnies a chance! It’s worth noting that some mixed breeds are hard to place with owners simply because of their looks, such as the all-white rabbits with red eyes. (Some people think these New Zealand rabbits look “scary”; in fact, they’re known to be wonderful companions.)
Shelters
Shelters — whether run by private
groups or local governments — do an admirable job of finding homes for
neglected or abandoned cats, dogs, rabbits, and other pets. Not all shelters
are created equal, however, and some don’t even accept rabbits.
- At shelters where unadopted pets are euthanized, rabbits are destroyed if they’re not adopted within a specified period of time. No-kill shelters keep rabbits until they’re adopted (unless, in some cases, there are serious concerns about health or aggression).
- In an effort to ensure successful adoptions, some shelters screen potential adopters. They also factor into adoption fees the cost of spaying and neutering, a step that goes a long way toward preventing future unwanted litters.
- Some shelters do not screen adopters or spay or neuter rabbits. Although such shelters may charge a nominal fee as low as $1, you’ll have to pay to spay or neuter your bunny, which can cost from $75 to $350. Other shelters may give you a coupon for a discounted spay or neuter.
Tip
If you make the admirable choice to go to an animal shelter to rescue a bunny, follow these steps:
1. Call to make sure your local shelter has rabbits on the day you decide to go.
2. Provide the shelter with honest answers to any questions they ask about your family, other pets, schedule, and so on.
3. Peruse the rabbits, deciding which one most catches your interest.
4. Ask the staff for some information about the rabbit’s personality and how the rabbit ended up at the shelter.
You’ll probably get a good sense of who the rabbit is from talking to the people who have been caring for the bunny for a period of time.
Tip
An oldie but a goodie
Baby bunnies are unbearably adorable, there’s no doubt about that. But
as cute as they are, these youngsters come with issues that older rabbits
just don’t have. Baby bunnies
- Need to be trained. They have to be shown how to go in a litter box
(a must if you’re one of those caring souls who plans to have your rabbit hop
around the house).
- Will — sooner than later — become “teenager” bunnies. That means they
go through a general phase of hormonally driven unpleasant behaviors (biting,
aggression, and territoriality among them).
Another great thing about adult rabbits is that they know who they are
— and that means you know exactly what you’re getting. Adult rabbits have
already reached their full size, so you won’t get any surprises in that
department. They have also developed their personalities.
Keep in mind, however, that the behavior of the adult rabbit you’re
considering adopting may not change dramatically, particularly if you don’t
have the time or experience for training. Younger rabbits may be more able to
train and socialize.
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5. Interact with the bunny yourself.
Keep in mind that an animal shelter full of barking dogs and strange smells can be overwhelming to a rabbit, so your interactions with the bunny might be rather one-sided.
If possible, ask the staff whether you can take the rabbit to a quiet area away from other animals. Sit on the floor and watch his behavior. Unless the rabbit is obviously aggressive or is completely terrified, even in a quiet environment the bunny will probably make a good pet. (Chapter Thinking Like a Rabbit tells you more about how to read a rabbit’s body language.)
6. Check the rabbit over for signs of ill health to make sure that the bunny is in good shape.
For more on what to look for, see the section “Selecting the Rabbit,” later in this chapter.
If the rabbit seems sick and you’re interested in adopting him anyway, talk to the staff about having the shelter veterinarian treat the rabbit at a reduced cost or for no fee if you adopt the animal.
Rescue groups
These private nonprofit
organizations usually consist of a network of foster homes that provide refuge
to unwanted rabbits (many who are about to be destroyed by overcrowded and
overwhelmed shelters) until permanent homes can be found. Individuals within
these groups are almost always volunteers who provide this service because they
love rabbits and want to help them.
The House Rabbit Society, a
nonprofit organization with a network of chapters around the country and the
world, leads the way in rabbit advocacy (see the sidebar “A Voice for
Rabbits”), but other rescue groups out there as well. Each group may have its
own variations, but a typical adoption from a rescue group would go as follows:
1. Contact a rescue group.
You can find rescue groups in this book’s Appendix, online, and through the House Rabbit Society and local veterinarians. You’re likely going to be screened over the phone (to make certain you can provide a good — often indoor — home) before you’re invited to see the rabbits. Some groups require a home visit.
Once the group decides you’re qualified to adopt a bunny, you’re directed to rabbits in the area in need of homes. More than likely, the bunnies needing adoption stay in local foster homes.
2. If you pass this initial prequalification, schedule an appointment to meet rabbits.
The rescue coordinator sets up one or more appointments for you to meet rabbits. In many cases, the whole family is required to attend, which is a good way for rescue volunteers to observe everyone and talk about caring for the rabbit.
3. When meeting the foster parents, ask about the rabbit’s personality.
The foster parent can give you his impressions of whether you (and your family) are a good match with this particular rabbit.
4. Watch the rabbit in his element: running around the house, hanging out in his hutch, and so on.
Watching the rabbit provides a great way to see the animal’s personality. By visiting a rabbit in a foster home, where she’s comfortable, you get a good sense of who the rabbit really is. Ultimately the decision is yours, but the advice of someone who is knowledgeable about rabbits and knows an individual rabbit can be invaluable.
5. Look the rabbit over for signs of good health.
For more on what to look for, see the upcoming section “Selecting the Rabbit.”
Reputable rescue groups place only healthy rabbits for adoption, so illness should not be a problem. Still, it doesn’t hurt to be on the safe side.
6. Once you’ve found a good match and been approved for adoption, pay the adoption fee and sign an adoption agreement.
The adoption fee generally runs about $65, and many rescue groups require you to sign an adoption agreement. Many times, a volunteer or the foster parents will follow up to see how things are going at home.
A voice for rabbits
The House Rabbit Society,
founded in 1988 by a group of seven rabbit lovers, serves as a true advocate
for the companion rabbits of the world. The nonprofit group, which is
bolstered by countless dedicated volunteers, is committed to rescuing abandoned
rabbits and educating the public about rabbit care. Before HRS, many rabbits
lived out their lives in outdoor hutches, isolated from human companionship and
prone to illness and injury. Today, thanks to the organization’s efforts to
educate the public about the joys of sharing one’s home with a rabbit, owners
are better able to live with and care for their house rabbits.
In addition to improving
bunnies’ lives, the group works to reduce the number of unwanted rabbits and
has rescued and found homes for 20,000 rabbits. Based in Richmond,
California, the House Rabbit Society has chapters across the United States
and the world. The organization’s Web site offers information on adopting a rabbit
as well as excellent educational materials on behavior and health problems.
For more information on the HRS or to find a chapter in your area, contact
the House Rabbit Society at 148 Broadway, Richmond, California 94804 or go to
its Web site at www.rabbit.org.
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Saving a stray
It may sound strange, but stray
domestic rabbits are turning up more often in urban areas. These rabbits are
usually family pets that have been dumped by uncaring owners who foolishly
believe that a domesticated rabbit will be able to fend for herself in the
wild. Sadly, such rabbits are unlikely to survive. If you happen across a stray
rabbit in your yard or neighborhood, start by determining whether she is indeed
a domestic rabbit. (Tell-tale signs include lop ears or a spotted, all-white,
or angora coat. And unlike a domestic rabbit, a wild cottontail is unlikely to
approach you or your home.)
It’s doubtful that you’ll be able
to safely catch the rabbit, so you’ll need to call the local Humane Society to
capture him or take matters into your own hands by following these steps:
1. Buy or borrow a humane trap.
Typically, folks have to use a humane trap to catch a stray. The rabbit probably won’t let you approach him. Humane traps, which bait the rabbit and hold him until you’re ready to retrieve it, are available from
- Mail-order catalogs
- Humane societies
- Animal control agencies
- Fish and wildlife agencies
- Wildlife rehabilitation centers
- Local pet-supply stores (to order)
Tip
Buy a trap made of a lightweight material or that allows the tension to be set lightly on the trap door. A door that slams down hard on a rabbit’s back can permanently injure the animal’s spine.
2. Take the trap to where you’ve seen the rabbit, set it, and use pieces of carrot, strawberry, peach, or banana as bait.
Try to set the trap early in the morning or evening, which is the time most rabbits feed. Avoid setting the trap at night when you won’t be able to monitor it. If the rabbit is trapped and a predator approaches it in the dark of night, the rabbit may literally be frightened to death.
3. Cover the trap with a dark towel or blanket, leaving the open door accessible.
he darkness gives the rabbit a sense of security once it’s caught inside.
4. Check the trap every few hours to see whether the rabbit has entered it.
5. Take the bunny right away to a veterinarian experienced in rabbits.
Ask the vet to examine the rabbit for any health problems and parasites. If the rabbit is in good health, you can take it home and provide it a good environment and diet. If the rabbit is suffering from a health problem, the vet can advise you on what is needed for treatment. (Parasites like fleas and ticks are almost certain to be present on the rabbit, especially in the spring, summer, and fall months.)
Tip
If you prefer not to capture the stray yourself, call your local Humane Society and ask it to pick up the rabbit. Keep in mind, though, that animal control may not have the manpower to trap the stray rabbit right away. Once the Humane Society retrieves the rabbit, you can begin adoption procedures. Most shelters hold new animals for a few days to see whether the pet was lost and will be claimed. Monitor the rabbit’s status on a daily basis so that you know exactly when the rabbit is available for adoption. Rabbits are wonderful escape artists (they can dig their way out of just about any yard if left unsupervised), and the stray rabbit you found might actually be someone’s lost pet. Once you capture the rabbit and bring it home, try
- Posting signs in the neighborhood where you found it.
- Noting your find in your local newspaper’s lost and found section (which are usually free).
- Contacting local veterinary clinics that deal with rabbits, animal shelters, and animal control agencies where a person may have reported a lost animal.
If no one claims the rabbit after a month, you can feel pretty confident that you’ve rescued an abandoned pet.
Run free, wee bunny!
Audrey will never forget the
time that she rescued a wild baby bunny from the jaws of a barn cat at the
stable where she rode. The bunny was tiny — maybe 6 inches long — and seemed
incredibly helpless. His ear was sliced, and he was bleeding, so she took the
baby to a local vet who specialized in wildlife care. After gluing the baby’s
ear back together, the vet gave the baby back to Audrey. “What do I do with
him?” she asked, expecting to be told to bottle feed him and take care of him
until he was fully grown.
“Just turn him loose near where
you found him,” the vet said. “He’s old enough to take care of himself.” This
experience taught Audrey that although wild baby bunnies may appear tiny and helpless,
unless they’re newborn, they’re typically able to fend for themselves in the
wild.
If you come across a baby bunny
whose eyes are open, has fur on his body, and is hopping around on his own,
he’s probably fine and better if left alone. Wild cottontails are weaned at 3
weeks of age and can fend for themselves early on.
If you find a nest of newborn
baby bunnies, leave it alone. The mother is probably somewhere nearby.
(Rabbit mothers have very rich milk and need to nurse their babies for only about
5 minutes a day). If you aren’t sure, you can check on the newborns for the
next couple of days, being careful not to disturb them or loiter around
enough that you scare away the mother. If the babies are crying constantly or
are developing sunken-in stomachs, they’re probably orphaned. If you’re sure
the babies are orphaned, the best approach is to find a qualified wildlife
rehabilitator in your area and turn the bunnies over to the rehabilitator.
(Call your vet or local animal shelter for a referral.) Handraising (nursing
a baby animal with a bottle) wild rabbits is difficult, and an experienced rehabilitator
is the only person for the job.
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Considering Breeders
If you’re considering going to a
breeder to find your rabbit, make sure that you check out Chapters Choosing
the “Right” Rabbitand 3 and
are familiar with the various types of rabbits out there.
Remember
Unless you’re set on showing, consider getting a purebred or mixed breed from a shelter; more than a fair share of purebreds make their way to shelters. If you’re looking for a purebred for breeding, however, please see Chapter Coping with Other Health Woes and Aging Issues, which covers some misconceptions and ethical issues related to hobbyist breeding.
If you’re still interested in a
purebred rabbit, probably the best place to get one is a reputable rabbit fancier,
a person of experience and knowledge who breeds to the point of excellence.
Here are some good reasons to go in this direction:
- Responsible rabbit breeders take good care of their animals and can be an excellent source for a rabbit if you’re looking for a healthy, wellsocialized, purebred bunny.
- Breeders usually have baby bunnies available. However, a responsible breeder will not sell babies until they’re old enough to handle the stress of weaning and relocation. Typically, many of these breeders will not sell a baby until she is 12 weeks old.
- Your rabbit’s breeder will be a contact for life and can help you with bunny-related questions and problems that may come up. He may even be willing to help you get started in showing and breeding rabbits, if this is your ultimate goal. A responsible breeder will also take the rabbit back if you can’t keep it for any reason during the animal’s life.
- You may be able to meet your future rabbit’s sire and dam (father and mother) at the breeder’s rabbitry (the place where the rabbits are kept), which will give you a good idea of what your rabbit’s personality will be like.
- A good breeder will help you make smart decisions about whether you’re ready to take on a rabbit right now.
Remember
Here are some downsides:
- Lots of shelter rabbits out there need good homes.
- Buying from a breeder can be expensive (prices range from less than $25 to more than $150).
- Breeders typically can’t offer insight into the challenges associated with house rabbits.
2 Getting a connection
Tip
You have these sources for finding rabbit breeders in your area:
- American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA). ARBA is a national organization, but works with national clubs for each of the breeds it recognizes. These breed clubs keep records of all the breeders in the United States, and you can contact them for the names and numbers of breeders in your area. For a list of national rabbit breed clubs, see the Appendix. Keep in mind that just because a breeder is linked to the ARBA site doesn’t guarantee quality and responsibility; your own research is key.
- Local 4-H club. Most 4-H clubs have rabbit projects, usually run by breeders who volunteer in their spare time. You can find out who the rabbit contact is in your local 4-H club by contacting your County Extension office. You can find your County Extension office by calling directory assistance within your area code.
- Rabbit shows. ARBA shows are the best events to attend because you can find breeders of nearly every type of rabbit at these shows. Spend some time at the show and make conversation with breeders to see whether they have rabbits available for sale. Be sure to wait until after the breeder has finished showing in his class, however, because breeders are usually busy readying rabbits just before they take the rabbit to the show ring. You can read more about shows in Chapter Getting Hoppy with Your House Rabbit.
- Veterinarian with rabbit experience. These people know the responsible breeders in the area; they see these animals in their practice after they’re sold as pets. Vets also receive personal recommendations of breeders from clients.
2 Checking out a breeder
Once you have come up with the
name of a breeder or two, your next step is to scope out his or her rabbitry
and find out if this is really the person from whom you wish to buy your
rabbit.
Tip
Take the following steps to help make this decision:
- Call the breeder and ask her about the breeding operation. Your job is to get a sense of who the breeder is. Find out
- How many rabbit breeds this person is involved with. (Many breeders dabble in more than one breed and therefore may not be experts in any one breed.)
- How many rabbits this person currently keeps. If the breeder has more than a dozen or so rabbits, ask whether the breeder has help. It’s a lot of work to properly care for a large group of rabbits!
- While you’re on the phone with the breeder, find out whether she shows rabbits. This question is important for two reasons:
- A breeder involved with showing is an expert on the breed (or breeds) in her rabbitry.
- You can’t expect to buy a show-quality rabbit from a breeder who doesn’t show. If you’re looking to buy a rabbit you can show, the answer to this question is doubly important.
Tip
On the topic of buying a show rabbit, make sure that you tell the breeder up front that you want a rabbit you can show. Expect to pay a higher price for a show-quality rabbit, especially if you’re shopping at a national rabbit show.
- Visit the breeder’s facilities. Ask him whether you can come and check out the rabbitry. If the breeder says no, even with an appointment, look for your rabbit elsewhere. A breeder who won’t allow buyers to see the general environment where his rabbits are kept is most likely hiding something. (However, some areas of the rabbitry may be off limits to visitors to protect from transmission of disease.)
When you do visit the rabbitry, look for healthy rabbits in a clean environment. That means the cages should be clean, and the smell shouldn’t be overwhelming. The rabbits themselves should be bright eyed, have well-groomed coats and be free of diarrhea or any respiratory ailments. (This chapter’s “Selecting the Rabbit” has more on what to look for.)
If you’re looking for a show
prospect:
- Study the standard for your breed before you purchase the rabbit.
- Ask the breeder to select the best show animal available in the breed you’re seeking. The breeder should show you the rabbit’s coat and conformation (the way he’s put together), explaining how the rabbit holds up to the breed’s standard. The breed standard is the blueprint of the ideal rabbit.
- Ask the breeder to point out the rabbit’s good points and faults before you purchase.
- Try to get the best rabbit you can afford: the one with the least amount of faults.
Remember
Be aware that if you’re purchasing a very young rabbit, both you and the breeder won’t know for sure whether your rabbit will grow up to be a winner in the show ring. Only time will tell. (See Chapter Getting Hoppy with Your House Rabbit for more information about the show ring.)
2 Calling the classifieds
Warning!
You may see ads for baby rabbits for sale, both purebred and mixed. You can certainly find a rabbit through the classified ads of a newspaper, but use caution with this approach for several reasons:
- Responsible breeders tend to use other methods to advertise their rabbits for sale (most often word of mouth).
- The classifieds aren’t a popular place to advertise rabbits, so you won’t have many ads to choose from.
- People who sell rabbits through classified ads are often not very knowledgeable about rabbits and their care, and you may not find a healthy rabbit when you arrive at the seller’s home.
* When pursuing these kinds of ads, be on the lookout for rabbits that may not be well cared for. Unlike rabbits placed up for adoption through reliable rescue groups, rabbits put up for adoption by individuals using classified ads have not been screened for good health. To get a sense of the rabbit’s general health, ask to see where the rabbit is currently living and make sure that those quarters are clean. For more detailed health signs, see this chapter’s “Selecting the Rabbit.”
* If the rabbit seems healthy, ask the owner whether you can take the bunny for a trial period. If the owner agrees, immediately take him to a veterinarian for a full examination. If the rabbit is suffering from a health problem, the veterinarian will let you know what treatment is needed. You then have to decide whether you want to assume responsibility for a sick rabbit or whether you want to return the rabbit to its original owner.
Taking Precautions at Pet Shops
If you have a pet shop in your
area that sells animals, an adorable baby bunny has probably lured you to a
cage window. Although you can find rabbits for sale in many pet shops,
especially around Easter (see Chapter Jumping
into Rabbit Ownership), anyone considering a pet shop as a
place to purchase a rabbit should think about the following points:
Warning!
- A lot of unwanted rabbits who currently reside in shelters need homes. The people who run shelters and rescue groups believe that with so many mixed breed rabbits available for adoption, rabbit lovers have a moral obligation to avoid purchasing rabbits from pet shops.
- Rabbits sold in pet shops aren’t always purebred. Many are mixed breeds of unknown ancestry (not a bad thing unless you have your heart set on showing your rabbit). The few purebreds that you do find in pet shops are almost always “pet quality,” which means you can’t successfully exhibit them in ARBA rabbit shows.
- The breeding, socialization, and early health care are unknown. You won’t be able to examine the rabbitry where the bunny was born or meet its parents, so you won’t know much about the rabbit you’re buying or its background.
- The rabbit care information you receive from pet shop employees may be unreliable. Expertise on rabbits varies from pet store to pet store, and you have no way of knowing whether you’re getting the right answers to your questions.
- The fate of unsold rabbits is unclear. However, horror stories exist in which these rabbits are sold as snake food or returned to breeders where they’re euthanized. Purchasing a rabbit from a pet store may in fact perpetuate such practices.
Tip
Pet shop adoptions: Good news?
Advocates of rabbit adoption
may have reason for hope when it comes to pet
shops. In recent years, Petco has made the
decision to stop selling very young rabbits, and
whenever possible is teaming up with rescue
groups who set up in-store adoption programs for
rescued rabbits. The arrangement benefits all
parties: The rescue groups have a new venue
for housing the rabbits and educating the
public about responsible rabbit care, the
rabbits have a great chance of being placed with
screened families, the families get a warm, fuzzy
friend and a feeling about doing something good, and
the store gets a stream of new bunny
owners who need to stock up on supplies. Petco
is working to find local rescue groups that are
able or willing to work with them. In cases where
there is no local rescue, Petco will now
sell only neutered or spayed rabbits.
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If you’d like to buy a rabbit
from a pet shop in spite of these realities, make sure that you follow these
guidelines:
- Take a close look at the conditions. The cage should be clean and have fresh water and hay available. Groups of rabbits should not be crowded into small cages; overcrowding causes stress and increases the likelihood of disease.
- Examine the rabbit for good health. Follow the guidelines listed in the section “Selecting the Rabbit,” later in this chapter.
- Make certain the pet store provides a health guarantee for the rabbit. If the rabbit becomes ill shortly after purchase (usually within 48 hours), the store should be willing to pay your vet bills. If the rabbit dies not long after you buy it, find out why it died. If the cause was related to the way the rabbit was cared for before you purchased it, you should be entitled to a refund. (A replacement rabbit is not an acceptable substitute for a refund because a dead rabbit indicates a serious illness among the bunnies available at the store.)
Selecting the Rabbit
Whether your search has led you
to a shelter, a rescue organization, or a breeder, it’s time to pick your
rabbit. Though there’s a chance you’ll find someone ready to help you with the
selection, your best bet is to be educated and prepared when you arrive.
Watching for signs of an ill rabbit
Make sure the rabbit you take
home appears healthy. Unless you’re prepared for the extra money, work, and
heartache involved in caring for a sick or special needs bunny, disregard any
tugging heartstrings and keep the following in mind:
- Consider the general condition of the body. Be wary of a rabbit who feels too fat or too thin.
- Eyes should be clear and bright, with no signs of discharge.
- Ears should be pink and free of crust or discharge; a brownish, waxy residue inside an ear can be a sign of ear mites.
- A rabbit’s nose should not have any discharge; check the rabbit’s breathing for signs of respiratory difficulty.
- Take a peek at the teeth. If a rabbit’s lower teeth appear to extend in front of the upper teeth, or the incisors appear to be growing straight forward, sideways, or in other crazy directions, it’s a sign of malocclusion, a problematic defect that affects a rabbits ability to chew properly. (Proper veterinary care can help control malocclusion.)
In a normal rabbit, the upper incisors rest in front of the lower incisors, much like yours do when your mouth is completely closed.
- A rabbit’s coat should be soft, clean, and shiny, with no bare patches. Matting, soiling, or staining around the hindquarters may indicate diarrhea or some other problem.
- Check the feet to be certain they’re without sores.
- Watch the rabbit as it moves around; look for signs of lameness. A rabbit who is listless is probably not feeling well.
Keeping character in mind
Look for a personable rabbit.
Even if you plan to show your rabbit, you’ll likely also want to enjoy your
bunny as a pet. If possible, observe the rabbit in its home environment for
clues about her personality. And although certain breeds are noted for
particular personality traits, all rabbits are individuals and will behave as
such. Use your detective skills to determine the following:
- How does the rabbit interact with other rabbits? Is he playful? Aggressive? Timid?
- How does the rabbit react to people? Look for a rabbit who is somewhat calm when approached and petted. Rabbits who kick repeatedly and bite when handled probably aren’t well socialized and may not make good pets, especially for those with children.
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