Getting into Gear with Horse Equipment

In This Chapter

• Determining where to shop for supplies
• Knowing saddle styles
• Understanding bits, bridles, and other riding equipment
• Examining different tools for horse care
• Dressing your horse (and yourself) properly for riding

If you like to shop, horsemanship is the right hobby! All kinds of horsy stuff is available in the retail world. Some of it is necessary to every horse owner; some of it you need only if you plan to spoil your horse.

Either way, if you’re going to be a part of the horse world, you must have a handle on all this stuff. We don’t want you to share the fate of coauthor Audrey Pavia’s nonhorsy husband, who after walking through a tack store in a foiled attempt to buy his wife a gift, exclaimed, “Everything just looks like belts!” All that leather has a purpose. And we explain it all to you in this chapter.

Let the Shopping Begin: Figuring Out Where to Buy Equine Equipment

If you’re new to horses, you probably aren’t sure where to buy the equine equipment and riding apparel you need. Here’s a list of the places we recommend for buying tack and other horse supplies.

- Tack and feed stores: Most communities that have horses also have at least one tack and feed store. These places not only sell food for horses, but equipment, too. If you have more than one tack and feed store in your area, be sure to comparison shop. Sometimes pricing differences are huge from one store to the next in the same area. Likewise, keep an Okay, that’s not the original saying, but we’re cat lovers and prefer it this way. Anyway, the modified statement is true: Riders have options in the particular style they choose. 

Each riding discipline not only has its own associated style of riding, but also its own equipment. To function properly in the horse world — and to eventually shop intelligently for your own stuff — you need to know the differences. In the following sections, we get you started with the most important piece of equipment: saddles.

Surveying different types of saddles

Remember

Most people know that a saddle is a big piece of wood or fiberglass covered with leather that goes on a horse’s back. But there’s more to it than that. Saddles come in different styles. The one you buy depends on the type of riding you plan to do. Pay close attention here; the saddle represents one of your biggest investment in your new hobby. 

Knowing the parts of the saddle that are common to all disciplines helps when you’re shopping for a saddle. They include:

• Pommel: The front rise of the saddle
• Cantle: The rear rise of the saddle
• Seat: The center of the saddle where the rider sits

Hunt-seat saddle

The hunt-seat saddle (a type of English saddle) originally was designed for fox hunters, those members of the British aristocracy who found pleasure in chasing foxes through the countryside, leaping over fences, logs, and other obstacles in the process.

If you plan to ride your horse in the hunt-seat discipline — eventually learning to jump — you need this saddle, because it’s designed to make going over jumps comfortable and secure for the rider. A saddletree, the wooden or fiberglass frame on which the saddle is constructed, determines the fit of the saddle on the horse’s back.

A hunt-seat saddle and its parts are shown in Figure 6-1. These same parts also apply to other English saddles.

Dressage saddle

The dressage saddle is a type of English saddle that is specifically designed for use in the discipline of dressage. It differs from a hunt-seat saddle in that the cantle and pommel are a bit higher, the seat is deeper, and the stirrup irons are longer. Dressage saddles are constructed to put the rider in more of an upright position than you see in a hunt-seat saddle. The rider sits deep in the saddle with her legs underneath her body, providing more contact with the horse.

Figure 6-1: The hunt-seat saddle makes jumping comfortable.

Tip

If you want to learn to ride in the dressage discipline, you need a dressage saddle. You can learn dressage in an all-purpose hunt-seat saddle, but this difficult discipline is made easier by using a saddle that’s specifically designed for it.

A drawing of a dressage saddle appears in Figure 6-2. The parts of the dressage saddle are identical to the parts of a hunt-seat saddle. The only differences are the nuances of the design of those parts (refer to Figure 6-1 for the parts of the hunt-seat saddle).

Show saddle

The show saddle is primarily used in American saddle-seat riding to show off flashy, high-stepping horses. Show saddles are designed to keep the rider’s weight off the horse’s front end, so the animal can produce a lot of action in his forelegs. Consequently, the rider sits farther back on the horse with his or her legs farther out in front than with a hunt-seat or dressage saddle.

If you ride a gaited horse, such as an American Saddlebred, Tennessee Walking Horse, or Racking Horse, and if you plan to show in gaited classes, you need a show saddle. You can also ride on the trail with a show saddle, although this activity is not the show saddle’s primary purpose.

Figure 6-2: The dressage saddle is similar to a hunt-seat saddle.

To get an idea of what a show saddle looks like and how it differs from other English saddles, see Figure 6-3. The parts of the show saddle are the same as those of a hunt-seat and dressage saddles, except that the show saddle doesn’t have a knee roll (refer to Figure 6-1 for the hunt-seat saddle). The knee roll is the section at the front of the flap that supports the rider’s knee.

Figure 6-3: The show saddle is like a hunt-seat saddle but lacks a knee roll.

Western saddle

The western saddle was created out of sheer necessity in the old American West. This quintessential working saddle hasn’t changed very much in design during the past 100 years.

If you plan to compete in western events with your horse, or if you’re simply attracted to western riding and want to participate in this discipline strictly for enjoyment, a western saddle is what you need.

The western saddle is designed to give you a secure, comfortable ride. The deep seat, high pommel, and high cantle help keep the rider in the western saddle when the horse makes sudden maneuvers, making it the saddle of choice for calf roping, reining, cutting, and other western working sports. The long stirrups are meant for greater comfort during long hours in the saddle (see Figure 6-4 for parts of the western saddle).

Figure 6-4: A western saddle provides a safe, comfortable ride.

Endurance saddle

If you plan to spend long hours on the trail, consider an endurance saddle. A cross between an English saddle and a western saddle, endurance saddles combine the best of both worlds. They are light and easy to lift like an English saddle, and thus give the horse less weight to carry around. The seat is deep and comfortable like a western saddle, and some have high pommels and saddle horns for extra security. These saddles also have more D-rings to secure the kinds of items you need on a long trail ride, such as a water bottle, saddle pack, and first-aid kit.

Endurance saddles come in a variety of designs for a variety of tastes. Figure 6-5 shows a typical endurance saddle.

Figure 6-5: The endurance saddle combines the best features of an English saddle and a western saddle.

Picking out saddle pads

Saddle pads protect the horse’s back from rubbing and chafing, and they protect the saddle from sweat. Regardless of whether you’re riding English or western, you need to buy a good saddle pad or two to place underneath your saddle when you ride. Two popular types are

- English pads: The type of pad you need depends on the style of English riding you plan to do. Hunt-seat riders typically use white synthetic fleece pads underneath their saddles. Dressage riders usually use white square-quilted cotton pads called dressage pads, and saddle-seat riders typically use either no pad at all or a thin cotton pad.

- Western pads: For a western saddle, you need a western pad. Most western pads are made from inch-thick (or thicker) synthetic fleece or felt. Many of these pads come in decorative designs. You can also get just a plain white-foam western pad and put a thin Navajo-style blanket on top of it.

Whatever type of pad you use, keep it clean by washing it regularly, either in a washing machine or by hand (don’t put it in the dryer unless you want it to shrink). If not kept clean, a dirty pad not only starts to smell bad, but it also is likely to irritate your horse’s back.

Buying a saddle the smart way

Remember

A saddle is a big-ticket item — at least as far as horse equipment goes. That’s why you need to do some homework before you buy. Here’s our advice on buying a saddle:

- Be certain that you’re comfortable with the discipline you choose before you invest in a saddle. Take some lessons in that type of saddle first to be sure that you like how it feels.

- Take an experienced horse person with you when you go saddle shopping. You need that person’s expertise to help you make a good decision. (See Chapter Preparing to Make Your Purchase for tips on finding a horse expert.)

- Buy your saddle only after you buy or lease your horse, because the saddle needs to fit the horse you’re riding. (Chapter Making the Big Buy has info on the horse-buying process.)

- Buy the best saddle you can afford, because you’re making a long-term investment. Spending money on a quality saddle now pays off later.

- Research the brand names of saddles made for your discipline. Contact the manufacturers and ask them about the features of their products. Survey other riders in your discipline to see which brands they prefer.

- Purchase a saddle with a return policy. You need time to try the saddle on your horse before you commit to keeping it (see the following section for more information on fitting a saddle). This practice goes for used saddles and new ones.

- Have a trainer or independent saddlemaker inspect the saddletree during your trial period whenever you’re buying a used saddle to make sure the frame is not broken.

- Make sure the saddle fits your rear end. The seats of saddles come in different sizes, measured in inches (a woman of average size and weight typically fits in a 15- to 16-inch seat on a Western saddle, and a 17-inch seat on an English model). Try sitting in the saddle before you take it home (see the next section for more information).

- Consider having a saddle custom-made whenever you can’t find a saddle that fits both you and your horse. Although you’ll spend more than if you buy a saddle off the rack, it’s worth the money. Contact a local tack store for a referral to a saddlemaker in your area.

Remember

English saddles do not include the stirrup leathers, stirrup irons, and girths. You need to purchase these items separately. The purchase of a western saddle always includes stirrups and usually includes cinches; however, you may want to upgrade to a better cinch if the one that comes with your saddle is cheap.

Ensuring your saddle fits

Saddle shopping is more than just finding a nice-looking saddle in your price range. You have to make sure that the saddle fits you and your horse before you commit to buying it.

Fitting the horse

As far as the horse is concerned, a saddle that doesn’t fit correctly can result in sore back muscles, and a corresponding bad attitude to go with it.

Remember

Finding a saddle that fits your horse takes some work. Even though saddle manufacturers make saddletrees in different sizes (wide, medium, and narrow), each horse is an individual and may not fit into a saddle that corresponds to the apparent width of the horse’s back.

For that reason, when you buy a saddle, take it on a trial basis so you can be sure that it fits. During that trial period, follow the steps outlined in the sections that follow to determine the saddle’s fit and enlist an experienced horse person to help you determine the fit of the saddle. Saddle fitting can be tricky, even for the most experienced riders.

English saddles

To determine whether an English saddle fits your horse, follow these steps:

1. Put the saddle on the horse without using a saddle pad. Tighten the girth so that the saddle is comfortably secure.

2. Have someone sit in the saddle with his or her feet in the stirrups.

3. Using a flat hand, slide your fingers underneath the pommel, near the horse’s withers (the rise as the base of neck, where it joins the back). See Chapter Understanding Horses from Head to Hoof for a diagram showing the parts of the horse. Your fingers should fit comfortably between the horse and saddle. Be certain that you can place at least three fingers between the horse’s withers and the arch below the pommel.

4. Have a helper lift the horse’s left foreleg and pull it forward while your fingers are in between the top of the horse’s shoulder blade and the pommel. As the horse’s shoulder moves, make sure the saddle doesn’t impede shoulder movement. Perform the same test on the horse’s right side.

5. Stand behind the horse and look through the saddle (between the underside of the saddle and the horse’s back). If the saddle fits, you should see a tunnel of light shining through. If you don’t see any light, the saddle is too snug. You likewise need to make sure that the saddle isn’t too long for the horse. The seat panel shouldn’t reach past the main part of the horse’s back onto the loins.

Western saddles

To make sure that a western saddle fits correctly, follow these steps:

1.       Place the saddle on the horse’s back with a one-inch thick (or so) saddle pad underneath it. Tighten the cinch so that it’s snug but comfortable.

Tip

When you try to tighten the cinch, you may find that it’s too short for the horse’s barrel. Don’t reject the saddle simply because the cinch is too short. If you really like the saddle and it fits, you can always buy a longer, replacement cinch. Meanwhile, borrow a cinch that fits so you can continue to try out the saddle.

2. Have a rider sit in the saddle with his or her feet in the stirrups. Be sure that you can fit at least three fingers between the arch of the pommel and the horse’s withers.

3. Examine the width of the saddletree, or frame, as it sits on the horse and compare it with the shape of the horse’s back. On a horse with a wide back and lower withers, the tree needs to be wide. On a narrower back with higher withers, the tree shouldn’t be too wide. Place your fingers sideways (on a flat hand) between the saddle and the top of the horse’s shoulder to help determine the width of the tree. If the fit is so tight that you can’t squeeze your fingers between the saddle and the top of the horse’s shoulder, the tree is too wide for your horse. If you can put your entire hand between the saddle and the top of the horse’s shoulder, the tree is too narrow.

Fitting the rider

The saddle has to fit the horse, sure, but it also needs to fit you. Otherwise, you’ll be miserable when you ride. The good news is that finding a saddle that suits you is much easier than finding one that suits your horse.

Tip

The seats of English and western saddles are measured in inches. If you’re taking lessons, or using a friend’s saddle and you like the feel of it, find out the measurement of the seat. Armed with this information, you can rule out saddles that don’t have the same seat measurement. You can also try sitting in different saddles in a tack shop and take note of which size suits you best.

English saddles

To determine whether an English saddle fits you, try it out in the store or on the horse, whichever is easier. We think you need try several saddles in the store first so that you don’t find one that fits your horse perfectly but doesn’t work for you.

Sit in the seat with your stirrups at the length you prefer (see Chapter Getting Ready Before You Mount for information about determining the right stirrup length) and gauge how comfortable the saddle feels. You need to have about four inches of saddle in front of your body and four inches behind it.

If you like the way the saddle feels and you take it home to try on your horse, check the fit on the horse’s back first. If it fits your horse, then put a pad under the saddle and take it for a spin to see how it feels. Ask a trainer or other person experienced in English riding to watch you and point out any problems with the saddle that he or she may see.

Western saddles

Western saddles usually are easy to try out in the store, because they’re often displayed on wooden sawhorses. If for some reason you can’t try the saddle on a sawhorse, take it home and try it on your real horse. Make sure that it fits your horse’s back first.

Adjust your stirrups to the proper length (see Chapter Getting Ready Before You Mount to find out how). Sit in the saddle with your feet in the stirrups, and judge the comfort of the saddle. You need to have about four inches in between the front of your body and the pommel. Your derriere needs to rest against the base of the cantle but not squashed against the rise of the cantle.

If the saddle appears to fit you and your horse upon initial inspection, get on, and ride in it. After half an hour of riding, it still should feel comfortable.

Tack It Up: Other Riding Requirements

Saddles are a major purchase, but the shopping doesn’t stop there. Plenty of other accessories are needed before you can get up on your horse and start riding.

Getting a heads-up on bridles

Bridle is the word that applies to the headgear used on the horse during riding. A bridle consists of a headstall, the part that goes over the ears and connects to the bit; reins, the leather straps that attach to the bit and are held by the rider; and a bit, the piece, usually made of metal, that goes inside the horse’s mouth — or a substitute for a bit. We cover bits (which you buy separately from a bridle) in more detail in the following section.

Each riding discipline has its own style of bridle, but bridles within each discipline’s style also vary. The needs of your horse are the determining factors in the kind of bridle you ultimately buy.

Remember

Bridles have buckles on them and are adjustable, so you don’t need to worry much about matching your horse’s head to a particular bridle — most bridles fit most horses. The exceptions to this rule are horses or ponies with a very small heads or draft horses like Belgians or Clydesdales with a very large heads. In either situation, you need to buy bridles that are specially suited to the horse’s head sizes. Similarly, you occasionally may run across a bridle that is meant for an average-sized horse but turns out to be too small.

Tip

Before you go bridle shopping, have an experienced horseperson help you determine the type of bridle your horse needs. Figure 6-6 shows a variety of English and western bridles. The remainder of this section explains the different bridles.

The English disciplines of hunt seat, dressage, and saddle seat use several different types of bridle styles. The basic bridle for each virtually is the same, but you’ll find these following variations:

- Hunt-seat bridle: Hunt-seat riders typically use a standard snaffle bridle with a snaffle bit. This bridle consists of a headstall strap, a browband that goes across the forehead, a throatlatch that attaches under the horse’s jowl, and a noseband that goes across the nose and under the jaw. Variations of this bridle exist, including ones with a drop noseband and a flash noseband to keep the horse from evading the action of the bit by opening his mouth.

- Dressage bridle: The aesthetics of the dressage bridle are somewhat different, but riders also use the snaffle bridle in dressage.

Tip

Although many of the same bits and headstalls used in hunt seat also are used in dressage, some levels of dressage competition don’t allow certain bits and nosebands. If you intend to show in dressage, contact the ruling dressage federation in your country to find out the latest rules.

- Saddle-seat bridle: Horses ridden saddle seat typically wear a double bridle, which is similar to a snaffle bridle but has an additional cheek piece to hold an additional bit.

Figure 6-6: English and western bridles have several variations.

Bridles for western riding come in a few styles. Each has a headstall and reins. Some western bridles are split-ear style, which means a piece of leather at the top of the headstall is attached for the horse’s ear to fit through. Other western bridles have browbands instead. And still others have neither browband nor split-ear design, and simply rest behind the horse’s ears.

Within western styles, bridles differ mostly based on whether you use a bit. The material of western bridles likewise varies of late, and western riders can find not only traditional leather bridles but also brightly colored and elaborately patterned nylon bridles. The following list explains some of the types of western bridles:

- Traditional western bridle: The traditional western bridle consists of a split-ear, browband, or plain headstall design with a bit attached. If the bit you use has a curb shank (a long, curved piece between the bit and the part where the reins attach), a curb chain or strap under the chin is included. A pair of reins finishes off the bridle.

- Western hackamore bridle: Not all western bridles have bits; some are fitted with a device called a hackamore, which is a nosepiece that enables the rider to control the horse without using a bit. Hackamore bridles are split into these two main types:

• A bosal hackamore bridle is a rolled leather training device that’s used to school young horses. It fits over the horse’s head like a noseband.
• A mechanical hackamore bridle is a device that not only is for training, but also for general riding. The mechanical hackamore consists of a metal device that has a rolled leather noseband with metal parts beneath it. The reins attach to the metal piece, which helps you control the horse by putting pressure on the nose, chin, and poll. The entire hackamore piece is attached to a western headstall.

Breaking down bits

If you ever feel like being overwhelmed, go into any large tack store and take a look at the bits. There are easily as many bit styles as there are breeds of horses. Why such a huge number? Horse people throughout the centuries have endeavored to invent a bit for every equine riding problem, and they’ve nearly succeeded.

The purpose of a bit (which is usually made of metal) is to apply pressure to the horse’s mouth and thus convey messages to stop, slow down, turn, and so on. The shape of the mouthpiece determines how that pressure is applied. Some bits are mild, meaning they apply minimal pressure. Others are harsh, demanding the horse’s undivided attention by stricter means.

Tip

Beginning riders need to ride with a relatively mild bit until they develop their skills, because a harsh bit in inexperienced hands can result in pain for the horse. Ask a trainer for help on properly bitting your horse.

Western and English riding use different bits. The curb bit is the most common bit in western riding, while English riders typically use a bit called the loose ring snaffle. See Figure 6-7 for examples of some types of western and English bits. You can use any type of western or English bit with any type of bridle, as long as both the bridle and bit match the same discipline — western bits with western bridles and English bits with English bridles.

When buying a bit for your horse, you need the measurement of your horse’s mouth, in inches. Figure this out by trying different bitted bridles on your horse. The average bit size for a horse is 5 inches.

Tip

Ask a friend with several horses or a trainer to loan you bits in a range of different sizes. Try the bridles on your horse and see which bit fits the best. The best fitting bit protrudes only a fourth of an inch on each side of the horse’s mouth. Just to be sure of the size, measure the actual mouthpiece of the best fitting bit with a measuring tape. The measurement in inches is the bit size you need for your horse.

Figure 6-7: Western and English bits come in several different styles.

Checking out assorted riding aids

The number of contraptions that have been invented through the years to aid in riding is almost mind-boggling. The following sections list some of the most common gear. Some of these things are necessities, but others are luxuries.

Girths/cinches

In English riding dialect, the piece of equipment that holds the saddle onto the horse’s body is the girth. In western lingo, it is known as the cinch. You obviously need one of these if you plan to ride your horse.

When you buy an English saddle, you have to buy a girth, too, because the two rarely come packaged together. You can purchase a leather girth or one made from a man-made material — either is fine (see nearby sidebar, “A great debate: Synthetic versus leather tack,” for more information). Before you buy, be sure to measure your horse’s girth area (underneath the horse) from one side of the saddle to the other. The resulting number in inches is the size girth you need.

When you purchase a western saddle, a cinch normally comes with it. If not, you can buy one in leather, nylon, or another synthetic material, such as Neoprene. Measure the area of your horse’s girth from the right side of the saddle to about one-third of the way up the left side past the horse’s elbow. Buy a cinch that is closest to that length.

Tip

For your horse’s comfort, consider buying girth cover for your English girth or western cinch strap made of fleece (or synthetic fleece). This fuzzy covering keeps the strap from rubbing on your horse’s skin.

Stirrup irons and leathers

Only English riders need to worry about buying stirrup irons and leathers, because western saddles come with the stirrups and leathers attached. In case you’re wondering, stirrup irons are those metal doohickeys you keep your feet in while you ride. Stirrup leathers are what hold the irons onto the saddle.

Stirrup irons (usually made of stainless steel, despite the name) are relatively standard items. Make sure that you buy a pair that fit your feet while you’re wearing riding boots or shoes, of course, and invest in some rubber pads to go on the stirrups. The pads help your foot stay securely in the stirrup. Be sure to get the right size pads for your stirrup irons. If you aren’t sure of the size, take an iron with you to a tack store and ask a store employee to help you.

Tip

Find stirrup leathers that match the leather of your saddle so the entire saddle looks like one unit. If your saddle is brown, don’t get black stirrup leathers!

Artificial aids

When riding, the legs, hands, and voice are natural aids that you use to communicate with the horse. Any external device that you use to send a message (other than the bridle) is called an artificial aid, including:

- Spurs: English and western riders wear spurs on occasion. English spurs are blunt tipped and come in either short or long lengths. Western spurs come in a variety of styles, nearly all with something called a rowel, or star-like wheel. Spurs attach to the heel of your boot with a leather or nylon strap.

You use spurs to prompt a horse forward. Horses that aren’t responsive to leg aids usually respond to the prodding of spurs. If used properly, spurs are not inhumane but merely send the horse a stronger message than a leg squeeze.

Warning!

In the wrong hands, spurs can be cruel and dangerous devices. Before you strap on a pair of spurs, make sure that you understand the proper way to use them. Learn this skill from a trainer or riding instructor. Only riders who have considerable training in the saddle should attempt to use spurs.

- Whips: Each discipline of riding has its own design of whip.

• Hunt-seat riders use a crop, a short stick with a leather bat on the end.
• Dressage riders use a dressage whip, which is longer than a crop with a tiny tassel on the end. Saddle-seat riders sometimes carry a dressage whip.
• Western riders traditionally use something called a switch, which is, in essence, a big tassel (plenty of western riders also use crops because they’re more readily available).

For longeing a horse, a long longe whip is used to keep the horse moving in a forward direction. (For more information on longeing, see Chapter Working with Your Horse from the Ground.)

Although whips typically are thought of as instruments of brutality, riders shouldn’t use them that way. Whips usually serve as visual aids for riders who want to send any number of messages to a horse. In some cases, the whip actually makes contact with the horse, but merely as a tap, and never to deliver a beating.

Warning!

Beating a horse is inhumane and even illegal in many places. Never use your whip to punish your horse, and don’t stand by and allow other people to do it either. A whip should never be used in anger.

Exercising your options on training gear

A few of the items used in training — or at least in the management of the horse — are worthy of your attention:

- Longe line: To exercise your horse from the ground by longeing him (see Chapter Working with Your Horse from the Ground for more about longeing), you need a longe whip, mentioned in the previous section, and a longe line.

A longe line is a cotton or nylon rope ranging anywhere from 15 to 30 feet in length. One end of the line attaches to the horse’s halter (we cover halters later in this chapter), cavesson (a headpiece made just for the purpose of longeing), or bridle, the other end is held in your hand.

Tip

We prefer cotton longe lines because they’re less likely to give you the rope burn that synthetic lines can if the horse pull it through your hands.

- Longe cavesson: You can longe your horse in a snaffle bridle or halter, but a longe cavesson actually is preferable. This item fits on the horse’s head like a halter, but unlike a halter, it features a series of rings on the top part of the noseband. The longe line attaches to the center ring and gives the handler good control over the horse during longeing.

- Stud chain: A stud chain is a steel-link chain usually about a foot long, with a ring at one end and a clip at the other. The chain fits around the horse’s muzzle in conjunction with a halter, and is used to apply pressure to help control the horse.

Stud chains derive their names from being used on stallions during breeding. Ordinary horse people tend to use them on horses that have poor ground manners and problems leading. If you ever have to lead a horse that prefers to drag you rather than walk beside you, a stud chain is a literal lifesaver.

Considering a bareback pad

A bareback pad is not a necessity, but just a fun item to have around. If you ever have a day that you don’t feel like throwing on the saddle, but would rather just have a relaxing stroll around the barn or countryside, a bareback pad helps make your ride more comfortable for you and your horse.

Bareback pads are usually brightly colored and made from synthetic fleece. Most have a nylon hand strap sown on near the horse’s withers specifically for the rider to grab when security is needed. The pad attaches to the horse via a nylon girth that buckles on either side of the horse. If you have a pony, you’ll need to buy a bareback pad made in pony size. Bareback pads for regular-sized horses are generally one-size-fits-all.

Most bareback pads don’t have stirrups, although some do. We don’t recommend you ride your horse extensively in a bareback pad with stirrups because this practice can result in a sore back for your horse.

Warning!

Although bareback pads are great whenever you don’t feel like dealing with your saddle, they can be dangerous if not properly secured to the horse. One of the most common causes of horseback riding accidents is a bareback pad that has slipped off the horse. Make certain your pad is firmly secured to the horse with the girth that comes attached to the pad. If the girth is too loose and you can’t make it any tighter, add more holes to it using a hole punch, or put a saddle blanket underneath it.

Ground Work: Horse-Care Items

Riding is only one part of horsemanship. True horse people are just as dedicated to caring for their horses on the ground. A trip to your local tack store or a flip through an equine mail-order catalog shows you no shortage of horse-care items. Making heads or tails out of all that stuff can be a challenge — unless you have this book to show you the way!

Understanding the importance of halters

Remember

The halter is probably the piece of equine equipment that you use most often. Just about everything you do with your horse involves a halter. In fact, halters are so important that wearing one is the first thing a horse learns to do.

Halters differ from bridles in that halters have neither a bit nor reins. Instead, halters exist solely to provide control of the horse from the ground. When you take your horse out of his stall or pasture, groom your horse, bathe him, clip him, or tie him, you use a halter.

Halters are available in expensive leather designs and inexpensive, yet colorful nylon versions. When you buy a halter, get one big enough to fit your horse’s head. The halter should be comfortably loose, but not so loose that it falls way down on the horse’s nose (see Figure 6-8 for a correct fit of a halter).

Figure 6-8: A correctly fitted halter with a lead rope attached.

Warning!

If you need to leave a halter on a horse that’s loose in the stall or pasture, choose a breakaway model that snaps under pressure to avoid snagging the halter on something and trapping the horse.

Tip

We recommend that you keep more than one halter on hand. You never know when you may need a second one in an emergency.

Looking at lead ropes

You can’t own a horse and not own a lead rope. Without one, you can’t maneuver your horse while you’re on the ground. Trying to lead the horse by only his halter can leave you vulnerable and unable to maneuver if a problem arises.

The lead rope attaches to the ring at the bottom of the halter’s noseband, underneath the horse’s jaw (as shown in Figure 6-8). You tie your horse with the lead rope and hold it as the horse walks beside you.

Tip

Lead ropes are available in cotton, leather or synthetic material. Leather lead ropes are on the expensive side, and are usually only used at horse shows. And although synthetic lead ropes come in bright colors and in sets with matching synthetic halters, we recommend you purchase a cotton rope (which is also available in colors but not as bright and fancy). Cotton is less likely to burn your hands when your horse pulls back while you’re holding the rope.

Cleaning up with grooming supplies

How do you keep a 1,000-pound horse clean? With specially made equine grooming tools, of course. Scores of different kinds of brushes, combs, and other doodads exist for the express purpose of horse grooming. If you like to spend money, go ahead and buy some of them. But the list that follows is all you really need to get started. See Figure 6-9 for illustrations of the different basic grooming tools and Chapter Keeping Your Horse Clean and Pretty for specifics on grooming procedures.

Figure 6-9: You can choose from a variety of grooming tools for your horse.

Brushes and grooming tools

You need to have these types of brushes and grooming tools in your tack organizer to properly groom your horse. Each brush serves a different purpose:

- Currycomb: A rubber currycomb can be used to loosen the dirt in your horse’s coat before you go over him with the stiff brush.

- Stiff brush: Also known as a dandy brush, this handy tool helps you get the dirt out of your horse’s coat — which is no easy task.

- Soft brush: A gentler version of the stiff brush, the soft brush gets that top layer of dust off your horse’s coat and makes it shine. This brush also is perfect for grooming your horse’s face.

- Mane & tail brush: Some people use a comb to groom their horse’s mane and tail, but we think that a vented brush with plastic bristles is best for untangling hair without breaking it.

- Shedding blade: This metal blade with teeth does wonders to get rid of loose hair when your horse is shedding out his winter coat.

Warning!

Before using brushes that have been used on other horses, disinfect them first by soaking them in a solution of one part bleach to four parts water. You’re less likely to spread potential fungal infections between horses.

Clippers

If you want to keep your horse’s errant hairs trimmed, you need to purchase a pair of horse clippers. Horse clippers look much like barber’s clippers, but they’re specially made for horses in that they tend to be quieter and smaller so as not to intimidate the horse.

Several manufacturers make horse clippers in a variety of styles. For regular maintenance, you need only a small pair. If you intend to do serious body clips on a regular basis, you may want to consider investing in a larger pair to use just for that purpose.

Tip

When you buy your clippers, pick up a couple of extra blades, too. Nothing is worse than having to clip a horse with a dull clipper blade because it’s the only one you have. When your blades become dull, have them sharpened by a clipper service, referred to you by your local tack and feed store.

Other tools

In addition to brushes and clippers, you need a couple of other nifty items:

- Buckets: You can never own too many buckets when you own a horse. Buckets have many uses, including giving baths, serving grain and sweet feed, and providing water in an emergency or when on the road (to name just a few uses). Be sure to buy your buckets from a horsy source so you’re sure that you’re getting specially designed horse buckets. Regular buckets like the kind sold in grocery and hardware stores are not heavy-duty enough for use with horses. Avoid rubber buckets because they collect bacteria and are hard to clean effectively.

- Hoof pick: The standard hoof pick has a colored, rubber handle and a metal, V-shaped head for cleaning out the underside of the horse’s hooves. You can also find hoof picks made of solid plastic with scrapers attached and picks with nylon brushes for cleaning feet.

- Sponges: Sponges are good for giving baths and for wiping off sweat and other things that stick to your horse. Horse-friendly sponges are available in different sizes, shapes, and colors. The ones you buy are a matter of personal preference.

- Sweat scraper: Sweat scrapers come in two styles: long, straight plastic wands; and metal bows with one straight ridge and one toothed ridge and each end of the bow attached to a plastic handle (see Figure 6-9 to get an idea of what each of these scrapers looks like). The toothed side of the metal sweat scraper functions as a shedding blade for removing loose hair during the horse’s springtime shed.

Tip

Despite the name of this tool, we recommend that it be used only for scraping water off a freshly bathed horse. Merely scraping off sweat isn’t healthy for your horse’s skin — water should be applied to remove the salts.

- Tack organizer: Rather than throwing all your grooming tools into a shoebox, keep your equipment in a tack organizer. A tack organizer is a plastic box with different compartments and a handle. You probably already have one for your gardening tools. Buy a tack organizer at a tack store, or get the same product at your local gardening center. Be sure to buy yourself an organizer in a really cool color!

Playing Dress-Up: Horse Clothes

People wear clothes, so why not horses, too? Actually, horse clothes exist for some very practical reasons. The following sections look at some common items of horse clothing and their functions.

Putting on coverups

Horses somehow managed to survive for a long time before humans began dressing them in coverups. Now, it seems, they can’t do without them!

When you go to most busy stables in either summer or winter, you see several different kinds of coverups in use. Although they may all look pretty much the same to your as-yet-untrained eye, each one has a unique purpose.

Blankets and sheets

The term blanket applies to coverups that are used specifically to keep the horse warm in cold weather. Blankets come in different styles and materials, but most fit over the horse’s shoulders and reach to the horse’s tail. The body is covered to midway down the legs. Straps sown into the blanket fit around the horse’s girth and back legs to keep the blanket in place.

Blankets can be quilted and lined with wool. Or, they can be thin, breathable, and water-resistant. Whatever blanket need your horse has, a blanket exists to fill it (see Figure 6-10 for a couple of examples of horse blankets). Here are a couple of types of blankets on the market in the United States and Canada:

- Stable blanket: Horses in stalls and small paddocks wear stable blankets, which either are thick and very warm or very lightweight. A huge variety of different stable blanket designs are out there, suited to different weather needs and horse-owner tastes.

- Turn-out blanket: Turn-out blankets are for horses that spend most of their time outdoors at pasture. These blankets are usually warm, water resistant, and durable. They are fitted with special straps that prevent the blanket from getting twisted when the horse rolls.

Tip

Not every horse needs to wear a blanket in the winter. If your horse is very old or very young, sick or recovering from illness, has a thin winter coat, or is body clipped, he may need a blanket. If your horse doesn’t fit one of these descriptions, chances are that a blanket isn’t necessary. The coat that Mother Nature gave the horse gets the animal through the cold of winter.

Some coverups are to keep horses warm — others have a different purpose. Refer to Figure 6-10 for examples of these coverups:

- Coolers: You use coolers specifically to help a horse cool down after a workout without catching a chill. Coolers fit over the ears and stretch to the back of the horse, covering everything but the head and lower legs. Coolers are worn only when the horse is being handled, never when the horse is unattended in his stall or pasture.

 - Antisweat sheets: The purpose of an antisweat sheet is to help a horse cool down after a workout by absorbing the sweat and letting it evaporate off the body. Woven in a pattern that encourages circulation, the sheet fits over the horse like a blanket and keeps the horse warm while enabling sweat to dry quickly.

- Flysheets: Flysheets are for use mostly in the summer to protect the horse’s body from biting flies. The sheets are made of lightweight, breathable material woven tightly enough so flies cannot fit their mouth parts through the weave.

Figure 6-10: Examples of several different types of coverups.

Leg protectors

Considering how important a horse’s legs are, it’s no wonder so many leg protection devices exist. Our favorites include the following:

- Bell boots: Bell boots protect a horse from nicking his front pasterns (ankles) and stepping on his front shoes with his back hooves during exercise, known as overreaching. Rubber bell boots fit over the horse’s front hooves.

- Splint boots: Controversy rages over whether splint boots really do any good, but their purpose is to support the horse’s tendons during workouts. Some people put them only on the front legs, while other riders dress all four legs with splint boots. Splint boots are usually made from synthetic material and are attached to the leg with hook-and-loop-fastener enclosures.

- Polo wraps: Originally used on polo ponies to help protect their legs, cotton polo wraps now are traditionally used by dressage riders as protection for the tendons during hard workouts. Riders in other disciplines use them, too. No concrete scientific evidence exists to prove that polo wraps, which are applied like wrapped bandages, do indeed help hardworking horses, but many riders swear by them.

Warning!

Before you attempt to put splint boots or polo wraps on your horse’s legs the first time, you need a trainer or experienced person to show you exactly how to do it. Improperly applied leg protection can actually harm your horse’s legs.

Paying attention to assorted apparel

So many items are available for horses to wear; describing them all in this book is impossible. Here are three of our favorites:

- Fly mask: Whoever invented the fly mask did a great service for the domestic horse. Fly masks are mesh hoods that fit over the center part of the head. They shield the horse’s eyes from face flies that feed on the eyes’ moisture. Some fly masks also have ear covers that protect the horse’s ears from biting gnats while also protecting the horse’s eyes.

- Fly wraps: These plastic mesh wraps keep flies from biting the horse’s legs, the insects’ favorite part of the horse. The wraps go on all four legs and fasten with hook-and-loop fasteners.

- Tail bag: They may look goofy, but tail bags are the answer to growing a long, luxurious tail. As the name implies, the tail bag is just that: a bag that holds a loosely braided tail. It serves as protection for fragile tail hairs, keeping them clean and unbroken. Usually made from nylon, tail bags often have a tassel or fringes at the end that helps the horse chase away flies when it swings the encased swisher.

Looking Good: Your Own Riding Wear

The horse world has much tradition, and nowhere is this more obvious than in riding apparel. Unlike the ready-to-wear market where fashions change, equestrians have been wearing the same basic outfits for decades.

Just like with other sports, horseback riding has its own distinctive look. You wouldn’t play tennis in jeans and a flannel shirt unless you wanted to give the impression that you didn’t know what you were doing, right? Well, the same thing holds true with riding. If you want to look like one of the gang, you’d better dress like the gang, especially if you plan to show your horse.

The apparel in each discipline has its own distinct look, of course, just like the tack. In this section, we describe the appropriate apparel for each riding style, both for the show ring and for schooling (regular riding). Although you may see riders donning variations of what we describe here, if you follow our advice, you won’t find yourself in the horse-world equivalent of plaid golfing pants.

Tip

Riding apparel for children is virtually the same as it is for adults, just in miniature. When you buy riding clothes for kids, get a comfortable size that really fits. No one is more miserable than a kid trying to ride in boots or breeches that are too big or too small.

Donning formal hunt-seat garb

Hunt-seat riding is based on British tradition and has a very formal appearance. The only thing that seems to change periodically is the color of jackets and breeches. We’ve seen green, rust, and beige come and go in popularity during the past 15 years or so:

- Show: Hunt-seat riders in the show ring wear a white or pinstriped cotton riding shirt, long-sleeved preferred. The women’s shirt has a band collar that usually bears a monogram. Men wear shirts with a standard straight collar and a regular necktie. Both genders wear breeches and dress (riding) or field boots. (Although breech colors go in and out of style — avoiding white if you ride hunt seat is always a safe bet.) A dark-colored or gray pinstriped, tapered wool riding jacket tops off the ensemble for men and women, along with a black velvet hunt cap or riding helmet. See Figure 6-11 for a drawing of this apparel.

- Schooling: Male and female hunt-seat riders wear breeches for schooling, along with dress boots, field boots, or paddock boots and chaps. Tops are casual — anything from a T-shirt to a turtleneck. A schooling or velvet-covered show helmet also is worn.

Figure 6-11: Male and female hunt-seat apparel is formal.

Dressing in elegant dressage attire

Everything about dressage is elegant, including the clothing. Very traditional in style, dressage apparel never seems to change much:

- Show: Most dressage riders wear white cotton shirts with long or short sleeves. Both sexes sport a stock tie, fastened with a gold horsy pin over a band collar. In the lower levels and at smaller shows, riders often wear light-colored breeches, black dress (riding) or field boots, a black or dark dressage or hunting jacket, and a hunt cap or regular black helmet.

In the upper levels and at bigger shows, male and female riders wear white breeches, black dress boots, a black derby, and a black dressage jacket or shadbelly coat. See Figure 6-12 to get a look at dressage show apparel.

- Schooling: Dressage riders dress more casually when schooling than they do in the show ring. Many wear any color breeches, dress boots, field boots, or paddock boots with chaps or half-chaps, and T-shirts or mock turtlenecks. They also wear schooling or show helmets.

Figure 6-12: Male and female dressage riders look elegant in show apparel.

Slipping into saddle-seat apparel

Although hunt-seat and dressage apparel have a distinct European look to them, saddle-seat apparel has an old-fashioned, all-American appeal:

- Show: In the show ring, both male and female saddle-seat riders wear a white shirt, dark jodhpurs, and a riding derby. They both wear saddle-seat coats, day coats, or saddle-seat suit jackets, and jodhpur boots under the jodhpurs. Women sometimes wear tuxedo shirts with feminine bow ties or rosettes, and both genders wear wingtip or straight collars with men’s bow ties or neckties, respectively. A vest sometimes is worn under the coat. See Figure 6-13 for saddle-seat show attire.

- Schooling: Saddle-seat riders of both sexes usually wear jodhpurs for schooling, along with jodhpur boots. They sometimes wear regular breeches and paddock boots. Their tops are often casual T-shirts or mock turtlenecks. They also usually wear a schooling helmet or hunt-seat show helmet.

Figure 6-13: Saddle-seat attire for men and women is distinctly American.

Wearing western gear

Formal western attire is only required in the show ring, and then only in “rail” classes like western pleasure, horsemanship, and trail. Otherwise, the western look is casual and comfortable, and a favorite of male riders:

- Show: In classes calling for formal western attire, female riders wear tuxedo shirts with long-sleeved western jackets or western riding vests, and feminine bow ties or rosettes. They also wear jeans and fringed chaps, western paddock boots or riding boots, and broad-brimmed western felt hats. Male riders wear straight-collared western shirts with a western tie, along with jeans and fringed chaps. Both also wear paddock boots or western riding boots, and a broad-brimmed western felt hat tops off the outfit. Both wear leather belts with large silver, western belt buckles. See Figure 6-14 for formal western show ring apparel.

Riders showing in performance classes such as reining, barrel racing, and cutting need only to wear a western hat, jeans, fringed chaps, western boots or paddock boots, and a western shirt. A western tie is a nice touch.

Remember

When buying western boots for riding, pick out a style designed specifically for riding. Most western boots for sale in regular shoe stores are for street wear and don’t have the right style heel for safe riding. Boots designed for riding have soles that prevent the rider’s foot from slipping through the stirrup and help keep the rider’s foot in place. Shopping for your boots at a tack store is the best way to find appropriate riding boots.

- Schooling: Western riders usually wear loose-fitting jeans or special riding jeans that combine elastic with denim for a comfortable fit. They often ride in paddock boots, western boots, or riding shoes, and wear just about any kind of shirt including T-shirts, western shirts, or mock turtlenecks. Cautious western riders school their horses in helmets, usually the vented kind that endurance riders use.

Figure 6-14: Formal western show attire for men and women is comfortable.

Kicking around in comfortable clothes

For days when you aren’t riding but are instead doing equine-related chores like grooming, longeing or simply mucking stalls, wear the following apparel for comfort and safety (see Chapter Staying Safe on (and around) Your Horse for details):

- Pants: Jeans or stretch tights are the most comfortable pants to work in around the stable.

- Shirt: Wear a T-shirt, sweatshirt, mock turtleneck, or flannel shirt. Make sure that the shirt is loose-fitting and comfortable. Make sure that it’s something you don’t care too much about, too, because your shirt is sure to get pretty dirty.

- Shoes: Riding shoes, barn shoes, or hiking boots are best around the stable when the weather is dry. Rubber barn boots are good if the ground is muddy or you plan to muck stalls. Never wear tennis shoes to work around horses because they don’t provide your foot with much protection if a 1,000-pound klutz steps on your toe. Of course no functional footwear provides 100-percent protection if you get stepped on, but the heavier the shoe, the better off your toes are, should it happen.

Using your head by wearing a helmet

Riding can be a dangerous sport. Not because horses are vicious creatures, but because the laws of the universe dictate that falling off a horse is way too easy.

Falling off a horse usually results in nothing more than muscle soreness, but if you fall and hit your head, serious injury or even permanent brain damage can result. To prevent these dire consequences most riders wear helmets. Some riders, however, don’t wear helmets because they’re hot during the summer. Helmets are also the cause of the female tragedy known as helmet hair. Riders who don’t wear helmets are risking the health and well-being of an often-ignored organ known as the brain every time they mount up on a horse.

Remember

Although fashion and peer pressure may dictate that you should not wear a helmet (western riders are notorious for not wearing them). We recommend that all riders wear a helmet whenever possible. If you are jumping horseback, you really have no choice. When jumping, you absolutely must wear a helmet.

Tip

When you shop for a helmet, make sure you buy one for equestrians (bike helmets will not do) that provides significant protection to your skull. In the United States, the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) sets standards for helmet construction. If a helmet meets these standards, it receives a seal of approval from the Safety Equipment Institute (SEI). Only buy an SEI-approved helmet.

Remember

Helmets are especially important for children, whose growing skulls are more fragile than the skulls of adults. Make sure your child always wears a safety helmet when he or she rides. 

by Audrey Pavia with Janice Posnikoff,DVM