In This Chapter
- Asking an expert to help you shop
- Looking for places to buy a horse
- Selecting important traits in a horse
- Evaluating your equine prospects
- Taking your new horse home
Before making the big decision to
buy a horse, you need to do some soul-searching about horse ownership so that
you’re sure that buying a horse is what you really want. You also need to have
a good idea of which riding discipline you and your family want to choose, what
you want to do with your horse, and how you’re going to house and care for your
horse. (Chapter Preparing
to Make Your Purchase gives you the background information you need to know before you
go horse shopping.)
After you’re sure that you want
to progress into the realm of horse ownership, your next step is finding the
right horse; however, doing so may not be as easy as you think. Finding a horse
can be downright difficult; moreover, getting a horse with the disposition and
physical capabilities to suit your needs and personality is almost as
challenging as trying to find the right spouse — although much less stressful.
No need to fret, though! We’re
going to walk you through the horse-buying process in this chapter, and if you
follow our advice, you should end up with a wonderful equine companion that is
just right for you.
Enlisting an Expert to Help You Shop
deal of angst. Among the
legitimate and important questions you need to ask yourself while shopping for
a horse are:
- How do I know whether this horse is the right one?
- Will the horse and I get along?
Don’t panic — you don’t have to
search for the answers to these questions alone or by the seat of your pants.
You can get help with your decision and take your time making it. You can ask a
trainer or an experienced horse person to help you decide whether the horse has
the right disposition. Horse trainers are horse experts, and as such, a big
part of their job is evaluating horses and matching them with the right riders.
Enlisting the services of a
knowledgeable, experienced, and reliable horse trainer is imperative as you
begin your horse-buying quest. Without the help of someone who has this kind of
expertise, you’re not likely to find the best animal for you. (For details
about finding the right trainer, see Chapter 4.)
Tip
If you live in a rural area, finding a professional trainer to help you with your search may be next to impossible, but you still can get the kind of help you need for your search from an experienced horse person. A local breeder or show competitor may be happy to provide you with assistance. (Chapter Preparing to Make Your Purchase contains information on finding an alternative equine expert.)
Remember
The best person to take with you when shopping for a horse is the trainer from whom you’ve been taking riding lessons or the one who’s going to give you lessons on your new horse. This person has a relationship with you and is more motivated to help you find the best horse. If you’ve been taking lessons with a riding instructor rather than a trainer, talk to the instructor about his or her experiences purchasing horses. If your instructor lacks experience in this area, try to find a horse trainer to help you instead (see Chapter Preparing to Make Your Purchase for tips on finding a good trainer).
Remember
The trainer/expert you hire goes with you to see horses for sale, watches the seller ride and handle the horse, and takes the horse for a test ride, too. Then it’s your turn to ride. The trainer/expert then gives you an opinion about whether the horse is a good match for you. Sometimes, a potential buyer falls in love with a horse, but the trainer/expert advises against buying him. The decision ultimately is up to you, but we advise you to weigh heavily on the recommendation of your trainer/expert. Trainers and experts sometimes are wrong — but usually not. If your trainer/expert doesn’t like the horse, he or she probably sees something that your untrained eye doesn’t, and you’d be wise to move on to the next prospect.
Knowing Where to Find a Horse
Unfortunately, buying a horse is
more complicated than going to the mall to pick out a new china pattern. The
process is complicated by the fact that you can shop in more than one type of
place.
The best sources of horses for
sale are individual sellers, horse dealers, and breeding and training
operations. If you’d prefer adopting rather than buying a horse, rescue groups
usually have them available and so does the occasional private individual. In
the end, although your horse comes from just one of these sources, you don’t
have to limit your search to only one. Check out each of the following horse
sources as you conduct your quest, and then settle on the ones that feel right for
you.
Using caution when e-buying a horse
The Internet has changed the way many things are
accomplished and that includes horse shopping. Whereas horse shoppers used to
be limited to whatever horses were available locally, the Internet has
broadened the horizon of the market for horses to include animals all across the
country and even around the world.
Web sites dedicated to buying and selling horses are
plentiful on the Internet, leaving horse shoppers with the new dilemma of
whether to buy a horse that is outside of their immediate vicinities.
Plenty of horse people make long-distance
purchases, using videotapes and a trip out to where the horse is located to
check out the animal. First-time horse buyers probably are better off buying
a horse locally, because of all the complications of purchasing on line and
via long distance. A vet conducting a prepurchase exam and simply spending
time with the horse are two important issues that buying long-distance makes
more difficult. Add to that the expense of shipping the horse to its new home
and you may end up breaking your budget, because shipping responsibilities
fall on the buyer.
Horses that are suitable for novices can readily
be found in most areas where horses are common, so newbies to the horse world
really don’t need to shop long distance. If, however, you decide to take this
route, be sure to:
- Use an independent veterinarian for the prepurchase exam; don’t rely on the seller’s vet. - Hop on a plane or drive to where the horse is located and spend some time getting to know the animal before you make a commitment to buy. - Bring along your expert.
Just because a horse is located far away doesn’t mean
you need to skip the vital steps needed to make the right horse-buying
decision.
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Individual sellers
Individual horse owners put
horses up for sale for any number of reasons. Some of the better reasons (for
you, the buyer) include:
- A teenage daughter who’s gone off to college and left no one to ride the horse
- A change in financial situation such that the seller can no longer afford to keep the horse
- The desire to replace a beginner horse with a seasoned show animal
- A loss of interest in the hobby
If you purchase a horse made
available by one of these situations, you can end up with a wonderful animal at
a reasonable price.
Warning!
Unfortunately, individuals also sell horses for less positive reasons. Some examples include horses that:
- Are difficult or dangerous to ride
- Won’t load into a trailer
- Are sick or have other medical problems
- Are mean and dislike people
Buying a horse from an individual
seller rather than from a trainer, breeder, or horse dealer can be a good way
to save money, but you need to exercise caution. Individual sellers often
advertise in the classified section of your daily newspaper, in local horse
publications, and on the bulletin board at your area tack and feed store. Your
trainer may also know of someone selling a horse that is a good match for you.
Tip
Some of the potential advantages of buying a horse directly from an individual are:
- Getting a bargain: Under the right circumstances, you can get a really good horse for a really good price. For example, if the seller is attached to the horse yet desperate to sell him, she may charge you much less than the horse is worth if she knows you’re going to provide the animal with a good home.
- Avoiding the middleman: You’ll probably already be paying a fee to a trainer or other expert to help you find the right horse (see “Enlisting an Expert to Help You Shop” earlier in this chapter). However, when you buy from an individual, you also avoid paying a middleman — that is, a trainer who is selling a horse on behalf of a client — which ultimately cuts down on the cost of the horse.
- Obtaining a history: Horses that come from individual sellers often come with a known history. The seller probably can tell you who owned the horse before, what type of work the horse did, whether a mare produced any foals, and more. This information is important, because it helps you get a feeling for what the horse is all about, and if you end up buying the horse, you’ll know something about your new charge. When you know absolutely nothing about your horse’s background, any problems that come up can be frustrating.
Warning!
Conversely, buying from an individual isn’t always the best way to go. Some of the potential disadvantages of buying a horse directly from an individual are:
- Time-consuming searches: Calling around and visiting horses for sale one at a time can take a great deal of time.
- Unappealing personalities: If you deal directly with individuals, you may find yourself face-to-face with personalities that are less than appealing to you. You may even run across people who are downright dishonest and try to pull the wool over your eyes, an uncertainty that can add to the frustration of horse shopping.
- Burgeoning prices: Although you may find a great bargain when looking to buy from an individual, you also stand to pay more for a horse from an individual than you would through a horse dealer, especially if the individual is in no hurry to sell the horse.
When you’re thinking about buying
a horse from an individual, be sure to bring an experienced horse person with
you to see the animal. A person with experience can ascertain any behavioral
problems the horse may have. If the horse passes muster in terms of its
behavior, a veterinarian can determine any medical problems during a checkup
(see “Hiring a vet to check the horse” later in this chapter).
Horse dealers
You can find horse dealers in
most areas that have an active horse industry. Horse dealers typically purchase
horses at auctions or from individuals and then sell those horses to others at
higher prices. In essence, they’re the middlemen of the horse-buying world.
You can get a good horse from an
honest horse dealer. Most horse dealers are experienced horse people who know
how to judge a horse’s disposition, quality of training, and athletic ability.
Tip
If a trainer or horse expert is helping you with your search, ask whether he or she can recommend a reputable horse dealer. Don’t approach a horse dealer without a recommendation from someone you know well and trust. Horse dealers are much like used car dealers: Some are ethical; others aren’t.
Warning!
Some horse dealers will sell a horse with a guarantee that states you can return the horse within one year for another one if the horse develops medical or behavioral problems. The trouble with this type of guarantee is that, most people understandably become attached to the horse and don’t want to return him to the dealer for fear the horse will end up going to the slaughterhouse (see Chapter Giving Up Your Horse for more information about horse slaughter).
Breeding and training operations
Horse breeders and trainers
routinely sell horses to individual buyers. In fact, selling horses usually is
a large part of their business.
Breeders typically deal in
purebred horses and sell young stock. The weanlings (horses between 4 and 6
months old) and yearlings (1-year-old horses) most often available from
breeders aren’t suitable for a first-time horse owner because they’re so young.
However, breeders occasionally offer older horses for sale, possibly a retired
show horse or a broodmare that has been trained for riding.
Trainers are often good sources
for older, trained horses — the kind you need to be looking for (see Chapter Preparing
to Make Your Purchase for more about age considerations). The horse that’s for sale may be one with
only basic training that the trainer purchased and then schooled to a higher
level. The horse may even belong to a trainer’s client, and the client has
outgrown the horse, so the trainer has taken on the task of selling the animal.
Sometimes, a trainer wants to sell off a lesson horse to a private owner. When
healthy and sound (free from lameness), former lesson horses can make good
mounts for beginning riders, and for that reason, you need to consider them
when you shop.
Tip
If you’ve taken lessons from and intend to continue working with a particular trainer after you have your own horse, consider buying a horse directly from your trainer. After all, you’ve been working with the trainer, and he or she knows your skill level and personality and may have a horse for sale that is perfectly suited to you.
Remember
As with anything else that you buy, the seller’s reputation is important — especially when dealing with breeders and trainers. If you don’t know the breeder or trainer, ask for referrals and find out what other horse people in the area know about them. Make sure that the business or individual has a good reputation before you get involved in any business dealings. You want to make certain you’re dealing with someone who is honest about the horse you’re buying and won’t stick you with a lemon.
Exercising caution at horse auctions
Although many people buy horses from public auctions
because they find good bargains, we don’t recommend this route for first-time
horse owners. At an auction, you won’t have the opportunity to spend much —
if any — time with the horse you’re considering. In many cases, you won’t
have opportunities to ride the horse or have a veterinarian examine the
horse. Because many public horse auctions sell horses without any kind of
guarantee, you may be setting yourself up for a fall whenever you buy a horse
this way.
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Adoptions
You don’t necessarily have to
purchase a horse to acquire one. You can adopt a horse for nothing or for a
minimal fee through several avenues.
Warning!
Although we like the idea of horse adoption, we want to caution you that it isn’t always the best way to go when you’re a first-time horse owner looking for a horse to ride. Some horses that are available for adoption make great riding horses for beginners, but others are not suited for inexperienced riders. If you want to pursue this option, do so with your horse-shopping expert in tow. Remember to be rational and critical, the same way you would if you were buying. Don’t take a horse home that isn’t right for you just because he’s free or because you feel sorry for him. If the relationship doesn’t work out (and chances are that it won’t), the results can be disastrous not only for you but also for the horse you’re trying to help.
The following sections take you
through different kinds of horse adoptions that are available.
Rescue groups
Horses are beautiful, noble creatures,
but sadly, life sometimes deals them a bad hand. Neglect, abuse, and death at
the slaughterhouse are problems that plague horses in today’s society.
Many people around the world are sensitive to the suffering of horses, and have banded together to help remedy the plight of these horses. The result is a bevy of private rescue and adoption groups that save horses from unfortunate situations. Many of these groups rehabilitate horses and then place them up for adoption. Some rescue groups simply give the horse a quiet place to live out his life.
Rescue groups that rehabilitate
horses and place them for adoption are the ones you need to explore when you
want to adopt a horse. Some of these groups take former racehorses (usually
Thoroughbreds and Standardbreds — see Chapter Perusing
Popular Horse Breeds for details on different
breeds), retrain them for riding, and then adopt them out or sell them at
reduced fees. Others simply rehabilitate rescued saddle horses and try to find
new homes for them.
Remember
Before you consider adopting a horse from a rescue group, research the organization. Visit its facilities to find out as much as you can about the group’s work. If the people who run the organization seem responsible, organized, and professional, then pursue the adoption process in the same way that you would when buying a horse. And as always, be sure to have an equine trainer or other horse expert with you when deciding to take on a horse — whether you’re buying or adopting the horse — and have a vet check the horse’s health.
Tip
You can also ask to take the rescue horse on a trial basis, because most responsible rescue groups have an open return policy on any horse they adopt out. In fact, many rescue groups insist that you take the horse for a trial period while they retain ownership. Some groups even send out inspectors to spot-check your property to make sure that you’re properly caring for the horse. In many cases, the rescue group asks you to sign a contract stating that you must return the horse to the group if and when you decide you no longer want the animal. See “Signing up for a trial period” later in this chapter for details on trial periods.
To get you started in your
search, a list of equine rescue groups appears in the Appendix.
Wild horse adoption
Warning!
The U.S. Bureau of Land Management (BLM) regularly rounds up wild horses living in undeveloped regions of the country and places them in holding pens. These horses are put up for adoption at BLM facilities in several states; just about anyone can take one of these horses home for a nominal fee. Wild horses are beautiful animals with a wonderful, historical past; however, because these animals have lived their lives with virtually no human contact, they’re generally not suitable for first-time horse owners. Adult wild horses need extensive training before you can even handle them. Young foals are easier to work with, but they’re years away from being ridden and usually too much for a beginning horse person to handle.
If your dream is to adopt a wild
mustang, don’t fret. After you gain considerable experience riding and handling
horses, you can always pursue that goal. When that time comes, you need to meet
certain government-established criteria before you’re allowed to adopt a wild
horse. You must
- Be at least 18 years of age or older (or have your parents cooperation)
- Prove that you can provide adequate feed, water, facilities, and humane care for the horse
The government has specific rules
about the types of facilities in which these horses can be kept and charges an
adoption fee of less than $200 per horse. (See Chapter Perusing
Popular Horse Breeds for more information
about wild horses, and the Appendix for BLM contact information.)
Free horses
Once in a while, people find
themselves in a situation in which someone wants to give them a free horse.
Horse giveaways occur for a few common reasons:
- An owner doesn’t want the hassle of selling the horse.
- An owner is primarily interested in the horse going to a good home.
- A horse is such a big pain in the neck that no one will buy him.
Unfortunately, the last reason is
most common when it comes to free horses. Any beginning rider who takes on a
horse that is so difficult or so unsound that no one will buy him is looking
for serious trouble.
Warning!
Just because a horse is free doesn’t mean that he doesn’t need to fit all the same qualifications as a horse that you’d buy. If someone offers you a free horse, and you want to consider him, jump through all the hoops you would if you were buying: Bring a trainer/expert with you to help evaluate the horse, have a veterinarian examine the horse, and take the horse out on trial basis.
You may be wondering why you need
to go to all this trouble when the horse is free. It seems as though you have
nothing to lose because you aren’t paying anything for him, right? No, wrong!
After you take possession, all of the horse’s problems become your problems.
And if you’re like most people, you’ll become emotionally attached to the
animal and suddenly face some difficult decisions if the horse turns out to
have serious behavioral or medical problems.
Remember
If you’re hoping to save a few bucks by taking any old free horse that someone offers, you are being penny-wise and pound-foolish, as the saying goes. Don’t forget that the initial cost of purchase is not what creates the greatest expense in horse ownership; the training, housing, and veterinary bills make up the larger part of those costs. If you end up with a problem horse, those prices you pay become even greater.
Deciding On the Perfect Horse for You
Remember
If your horse-owning experience is to be a successful one, you must find the right horse for you. We can’t stress this point enough. If you get the wrong horse, you’ll be miserable, the horse will be unhappy, and your venture into horse ownership will be disastrous. That’s why heeding the advice that we give you in the following sections is so important.
In Chapter Preparing
to Make Your Purchase, you thought about
the age, conformation, and gender of the horse you’re purchasing. Now, it’s
time to get even deeper into the process.
Considering your riding style
You can’t know what kind of horse
to buy until you know how you want to ride. If you haven’t already looked at
Chapter Selecting
a Riding Discipline, you need to do so before making any buying decisions.
Perhaps western riding is the
discipline that appeals to you the most, or maybe you like the idea of riding
hunt seat. Maybe you want a horse with which you can do both, or maybe you want
a horse that you can ride English, and your spouse and the kids can ride
western.
Remember
Regardless of what discipline you choose, make sure that the horse you buy has been trained in that discipline. The only exception is when you want to have the horse trained in a new discipline after you buy him. However, don’t make this judgment call on your own. Ask your trainer/expert to evaluate whether the horse is suited to and can be trained in your chosen discipline.
Protocol
You can’t ride every horse in every discipline, nor should you try. Specialization in the horse world dictates that you ride some horses western, some hunt seat, and some saddle seat. Some horses are versatile and can do two or more disciplines, but they still need to be trained in each one. If your only plan is to tool around the trail, then it probably doesn’t matter too much whether you put a western saddle on a big, rangy Thoroughbred — if you don’t care how odd it may look. But if you plan to show your horse at all, having the right horse for your discipline of choice is a big issue.
Choosing a purebred or a nonpurebred
Purebreds
In our opinion, purebred horses are really wonderful. Each and every breed has a fascinating and unique history, and every horse of that breed is a living, breathing relic of that amazing past (see Chapter Perusing Popular Horse Breeds for a rundown of some of the more well-known horse breeds).
Purebred horses have been bred
over time to fit into certain niches, each breed with its own specialties.
Quarter Horses, for instance, are renowned for their abilities in western
sports, just as Paso Finos are famous the world over for their paso gait.
Clydesdales are known for their massive size and strength, while Shetland
Ponies have found acclaim as durable and reliable children’s mounts.
If you’re planning to show your
horse, and a particular breed dominates the sport you choose, then you need to
seriously consider buying a purebred horse. If you want to show in open western
pleasure shows at your local stable, for example, you’d do best purchasing a Quarter
Horse or Paint. These are the breeds you see winning in these events most
often.
Owning a purebred also provides
you with an opportunity to show in breed-specific events, too. Nearly every
breed has regional shows where owners can present their animals in a variety of
classes.
Tip
Getting involved in breed showing is a good way to meet other horse people, too. By making contact with your local breed club, you have a whole slew of opportunities to meet horse owners with the same goals and interests.
For some people, owning a
purebred horse is a status thing. Purebred horses typically cost more than
nonpurebreds, have a pedigree behind them, and are recognizable to most horse
people as purebreds. If you care about that kind of stuff, then you’ll probably
want to own a purebred horse.
For other people, purebreds
simply are more beautiful and more interesting than nonpurebreds. These
individuals are willing to spend more money on a purebred horse just so they
can have a magnificent horse in their stable. In fact, coauthor Janice M.
Posnikoff, DVM, owns a purebred Miniature Horse and enjoys the prestige that
ownership brings her.
Warning!
The one distinct disadvantage to purebred horses is their tendency toward inherited diseases or weakness. Some Quarter Horses carry a gene for hyperkalemic periodic paralysis (HYPP), a severe muscle disorder; Appaloosas are inclined toward uveitis, a serious eye condition; Arabians have a tendency to develop enteroliths, or stones in the intestines; Thoroughbreds are known for having poor hooves, and the list goes on.
You can screen horses for HYPP,
but not for most other breed-associated diseases. Buying a purebred comes with
the risk that your horse can develop one of the conditions associated with his
breed.
Nonpurebreds
A nonpurebred can be a horse that
is the result of the crossing of two breeds (called a crossbreed), or a
horse whose parentage is simply unknown (called a grade horse). Many
breed crosses have names for the cross and associations that register them. The
Morab, which is a breeding between a Morgan and an Arabian, is one. The
Anglo-Arab, a cross between a Thoroughbred and an Arabian, is another.
Cross-bred horses usually are the
result of a deliberate breeding between horses of differing breeds,
orchestrated by people who are looking to combine the qualities found in each
breed.
Grade horses, on the other hand,
are the mutts of the horse world. In most cases, little thought goes into their
breeding. They’re simply the product of a stallion and a mare, put together for
the purpose of creating a generic horse. Some grade horses may actually be
purebreds, but because of circumstances, their registration papers and
pedigrees are lost somewhere along the way.
Remember
The reality of the horse world is that nonpurebreds are more plentiful than purebreds, which is just fine. Nonpurebreds can make wonderful mounts and excellent companions, the same way purebreds can. The horse world differs from the dog world in that sense: Pedigree just isn’t that important to the average horse person. For them, good behavior and a sound body have much more value than pure breeding.
Several differences exist between
purebreds and nonpurebreds, however. For one thing, nonpurebreds typically are
less expensive than purebreds and they’re easier to come by. If you open your
equine search to nonpurebreds, you have many more horses to choose from. You’re
also less at risk of purchasing a horse with an inherited disease if you get a
grade horse, which comes from a larger gene pool.
Warning!
The disadvantages to owning a nonpurebred primarily are show related. In many show rings, you compete against purebreds that are carefully bred to perform in the discipline in which you’re showing. Your nonpurebred may be at a disadvantage. Some of the more performance-oriented sports like endurance riding and show jumping are exceptions, because more emphasis is placed on athletic ability than form and general appearance. You commonly see crossbreeds and even grade horses in such events.
If all you want in your first
horse is an equine friend to take you out on the trail and spend time with you
around the barn, then a nonpurebred is more than qualified for the job.
Coauthor Audrey Pavia’s first horse, a little bay
Balancing emotions and rationality
Successful horse selection
requires you to compartmentalize your brain. On the one hand, you want a horse
that is emotionally appealing, but on the other hand, you need a horse that
also makes sense for you from an unemotional standpoint. You find a particular
horse attractive, friendly, and interested in you, and you can hardly wait to
ride such a beautiful creature. These are matters of the heart, so they’re
important factors to consider in your decision. But you can’t base your
decision entirely on how you feel about the horse.
You need to balance your heart’s
reaction with your rational side. Is the horse well-trained and suitable for a
beginning rider? Is the horse suitable for children to ride (if your kids are
going to ride him)? Is the horse easy to handle from the ground and from the
saddle? Is the animal free of any health problems? Truly liking the
horse you’re going to buy is important and so is having a good feeling about
the animal, but the practical answers to these and other questions must take
precedence over things like how good you think you look riding the horse.
Remember
The decision to buy a particular horse needs to be a combination of intellectual and emotional thinking. Your intellect needs to stoically compute the practical information about any horse you’re considering, while your emotional side needs to provide you with that all-important gut feeling that’s so necessary when trying to decide such important matters. Using a good measure of intellect and a good measure of emotion is key to establishing a balance between the two debating sides of this decision.
Embarking on Your Horse-Shopping Journey
Okay, you’re ready to roll up
your sleeves and start really looking for that horse. This part of the process
can be both fun and scary. But if you take our advice and have someone with you
who is experienced in horse shopping and knows her way around a barn, the
process is much less stressful.
Getting some initial information
Before you go look at a horse
that is for sale, you need to get some basic information questions (if the
advertisement doesn’t already give you the answers):
- How much are you asking for the horse? Is this price negotiable?
- How old is the horse?
- How big is the horse (in hands)?
- What is the horse’s gender?
- In which discipline is the horse ridden?
- Has the horse ever had professional training?
- Is the horse suitable for a beginning rider?
- Is the horse suitable for children (if you have kids who will ride the horse)?
- Does the horse load into a trailer?
- Does the horse have any bad habits such as cribbing, weaving, or pulling back when tied? (See Chapter Understanding Horses from Head to Hoof for information on these vices.)
- Does the horse have any medical problems or a history of medical problems like colic, lameness, or allergies?
- Why are you selling the horse?
Remember
The answers to these questions help you determine whether the horse meets your basic requirements of price range, age, gender, size, discipline, disposition, and health. If you sense a problem or incompatibility at this stage of the game, don’t waste your time going to see the animal. Say “No, thanks,” and go on to the next prospect. If the horse sounds great, set up a mutually acceptable time for you to see the horse, but make sure that your trainer/expert is available at that time, too.
Paying a visit
Remember
Bringing your trainer or equine expert with you the first time you see a horse is important. You need that person’s opinion about the horse immediately. If your trainer/expert gives the horse a thumbs up, then you can pursue a pre-purchase veterinary exam and possible trial period (we cover both processes in the sections on “Hiring a vet to check the horse” and “Signing up for a trial period” later in this chapter). If your trainer/expert gives the horse a thumbs down, then you shouldn’t waste any more of your or the seller’s time.
Remember
In most cases, you ride the horse on that first visit, so be sure to wear your riding clothes when you go — and don’t forget your helmet!
Start the evaluation process when
you drive out to see the horse. Your trainer/expert can guide you through this
process.
Remember
Follow these steps as you evaluate any horse:
1. Take in the entire horse. Take a long, hard look at the horse. The horse should be wearing only a halter so you can see his conformation, or the way he’s put together. Your trainer/expert helps you evaluate the horse’s conformation visually and with a hands-on exam, where you feel the horse’s legs and pick up his feet to look at the underside of his hooves (see Chapter Preparing to Make Your Purchase to find out more about recognizing good and bad conformation). The two of you are looking for overall balance, blemishes, and conformation pluses and minuses in the horse. If the horse already has been tacked up (saddled) in anticipation of your arrival, ask to see the horse without tack after you ride him.
2. Watch the horse move. Ask the seller to walk and trot the horse away from and toward you on a loose lead. The seller also needs to walk and trot the horse so that you can view him from the side and have the horse longe (move in a circle with a long rope attached at the halter or bridle; see Chapter Working with Your Horse from the Ground for more information on longeing) on hard and soft ground. Your trainer/expert watches the horse’s movement to judge whether the horse is sound.
3. Watch the horse as someone else rides him. Ask the seller to ride (or have someone else ride) the horse so you and your trainer/expert can watch the horse work under saddle. The rider needs to ask the horse to walk, trot, and canter. If you’re buying a horse that is intended for jumping, ask the rider to take the horse over a few jumps; if the horse is for barrel racing, ask the rider to negotiate a few barrels, and so on. Observe the horse during this time to get a sense of what he’s like when someone is riding him.
4. Have your trainer/expert ride the horse. This crucial step allows your trainer/expert to get a real feel for the horse’s disposition under saddle and his suitability as a beginner’s horse.
5. Ride the horse yourself. If your trainer/expert likes the horse, he or she will suggest that you ride him. Work the horse in a walk, trot, and canter. Pay attention to the way the horse feels as you ride, and ask yourself whether you’re comfortable on the horse and whether you like the way horse responds to you.
During this part of the process, you can rely heavily on gut feeling. Tune into yourself and see whether the horse feels right. If the horse is meant for your child to ride, have your child get up on the horse, too, assuming you and your trainer/expert consider the animal safe.
6. Observe the horse. If you and your trainer/expert like the horse, ask the seller whether you can spend some time handling the horse from the ground and observing him in his stall or pasture. Lead him around, groom him, and pick up his feet. Get a sense of what the horse’s personality is like.
Warning!
The horse needs to exhibit gentle, easygoing behavior. If he’s difficult to handle or tries to bite or kick, this horse isn’t for you.
When in a stall or pasture, notice whether the horse has any stable vices like cribbing or weaving (see Chapter Understanding Horses from Head to Hoof for more information).
7. Find out whether the horse loads into a trailer. Ask the seller whether the horse willingly loads into a trailer. If the answer is yes, ask for a demonstration. Any horse that won’t load into a trailer is not a good choice as a purchase. Even if you don’t plan to trailer the horse on a regular basis, you may someday need to take him to the hospital or transport him from one area to another. In these and other situations, horses that won’t load cause enormous problems for their owners.
Tip
Just because you have a trainer/expert with you when you evaluate a horse for purchase doesn’t mean that you sit back and let your expert do all the work! Take this opportunity to learn about horses and how to look at them. Be involved, and after the evaluation, when the two of you are alone, ask plenty of questions.
Moving forward after the visit
After you evaluate the horse,
thank the seller and tell him or her that you’re interested in the horse but
need some time to think about what you just saw and experienced. After you
leave the premises, discuss the horse with your trainer/expert. If the two of
you agree that the horse is a good match for you, pay another visit to the
horse and ride him again (you may have to do so as early as the next day if
other people also are interested in buying the horse.) If you still like the
horse, contact a veterinarian and arrange for a pre-purchase exam (see the
following section).
Remember
Whatever you do, don’t purchase a horse without completing the entire evaluation process outlined here. You may be tempted to do so simply because you’re afraid someone else may buy the horse first. Resist that temptation, because you’re better off letting the horse go than you are buying him without knowing what you’re getting. You’ll soon find another horse that you like just as much.
Tip
If you and your trainer/expert feel positive about the horse, you may want to give the seller a small deposit (usually around 10 percent of the purchase price) to hold the animal while you make your final evaluation. If you decide not to buy the horse, and the seller turns down another offer while you’re still in the evaluation process, be prepared to lose your deposit. Some sellers keep the deposit even if they receive no other offers on the horse. Stipulate the terms of your deposit up front and in writing.
Hiring a vet to check the horse
After you find a horse that you
and your trainer/expert agree upon, you need to call in a veterinarian. Most
equine veterinarians offer a service known as a pre-purchase exam, or a vet
check in casual terms. If you hire a vet to perform such an exam, the
doctor comes out to where the horse resides and thoroughly examines the animal.
Tip
If you’re working with a reputable trainer to find a horse, your veterinarian may recommend that you take the horse you’re considering to a training facility and keep him there for a one-week trial period before conducting the pre-purchase exam. Doing so gives you a chance to spend time with the horse and ensures that the horse is drug-free before the exam. (Make sure the horse is up-to-date on shots, deworming, and shoeing before you take him, and discuss a contract with the seller to protect both of you during the trial period.) Note: Trainers and breeders usually extend this courtesy to other trainers and breeders, but not usually to individuals looking to a buy a horse on their own — another good reason to have a trainer help you with your purchase.
Tip
Make sure that you select an independent veterinarian to perform the pre-purchase exam — not one that the seller suggests or considers the seller a client. (We give you great tips on finding the right vet in Chapter Preparing to Make Your Purchase.) If you’re unable to locate an independent veterinarian on your own, contact the American Association of Equine Practitioners for a referral (see the Appendix for this organization’s address and telephone number).
Some aspects of the pre-purchase
exam are included in the basic price, but other services cost you extra. The
more tests you can have the vet perform, the more you’ll learn about your
prospective horse and the more you’ll pay for the exam.
Remember
The results of the examination give you a good idea about any health problems the horse may have. Keep in mind, however, that the pre-purchase exam is not foolproof. A disease or condition can evade discovery during a vet check.
The following are just a few of
the things the vet examines:
- Vital signs: The vet checks the horse for normal temperature, respiration, and pulse while at rest. After some light exercise, the vet checks these vital signs again. Abnormal readings sometimes are a way to detect illness.
- Heart and lungs: The vet listens to the horse’s heart and lungs with a stethoscope to determine whether any problems are present.
- Gut sounds: Using a stethoscope, the vet listens to the sounds coming from the horse’s gastrointestinal system. Normal gut sounds indicate a healthy digestive system.
- Teeth: The vet examines the horse’s mouth for problems with missing teeth, overgrown molars, poor alignment, and wear from the habit of cribbing (see Chapter Understanding Horses from Head to Hoof for information on cribbing).
- Eyes: Using a light source, the vet checks the health of the horse’s eyes, looking for corneal scarring, cataracts, inflammation, and other signs of disease.
- Lameness: The veterinarian evaluates the horse’s conformation for any faults that may affect the animal’s ability to perform in the job you intend for him (see Chapter Understanding Horses from Head to Hoof for more information on conformation). The horse then undergoes something called a flexion test, where he is gaited in front of the veterinarian on hard and soft ground and in circles so the doctor can determine any problems in movement. During the lameness part of the examination, the vet also palpates the lower limbs in search of abnormalities and examines the hooves visually and with a device called a hoof tester.
- Blood: At your request, the vet will draw blood from the horse and have it tested for equine infectious anemia (EIA), thyroid function, and other possible problems.
- X-ray: At your request, the veterinarian may take X-rays to further evaluate the horse’s soundness and health.
Warning!
You also need to ask your veterinarian to do a blood or urine test for drug detection. We’ve heard stories of sellers tranquilizing or otherwise drugging horses before selling them, leaving the unfortunate buyers to discover the truth after the drug wears off and the horse’s true personality comes out.
A veterinarian conducting a pre-purchase exam needs to ask the seller about the horse’s medical history and current use. The vet also asks you about what you intend to do with the horse if you buy him. The reason for these questions is so the veterinarian can determine whether the horse is physically capable of performing the job you want him to do.
The veterinarian doesn’t give the
horse a pass or fail on the exam: He or she simply alerts you to the horse’s
condition at the time of the exam. The vet may tell you whether the horse seems
suitable for certain disciplines or sports depending on the correctness of his
conformation, although most veterinarians aren’t willing to give an opinion on
this subject for liability reasons. If the horse is suffering from a serious
illness, the vet indicates the abnormal finding on the horse’s report.
You can discuss the results of
the pre-purchase exam with your trainer/expert to get his or her input, but the
decision whether to purchase the animal ultimately is yours.
If the horse’s health is
acceptable based on the pre-purchase exam, ask your trainer/expert for advice
on how to proceed. We strongly recommend taking the horse for a trial period
(see the following section); however, if doing so is not possible, your
trainer/expert may recommend that you contact the seller to discuss another
visit or the possible purchase of the horse.
Signing up for a trial period
Remember
If a horse you’re interested in has passed muster with your trainer/expert and turned up healthy in the pre-purchase exam, you can move forward to the trial period. Most sellers will allow you to take the horse for a trial period. We recommend negotiating for a 30-day trial period, which gives you the greatest amount of time to get to know the horse. A week or two is better than nothing, if that’s all the time the seller will allow.
When negotiating for the trial
period, put all the terms of the trial in writing and make sure both parties
sign the agreement. As the potential buyer, you customarily pay for the horse’s
board and feed during the time he’s in your care and possession; the seller
usually pays any medical costs that come up.
If the seller doesn’t agree to a
trial period, suggest a lease agreement instead. You can opt to lease the horse
for several months at an agreed fee with the goal of getting to know the
animal. At the end of your lease, you can purchase the horse or return him to
the seller (see Chapter Preparing
to Make Your Purchase for more about leasing a horse). The seller may agree
to this arrangement because it generates monthly income — with a good chance
that you’ll buy the animal as a result of the lease.
Remember
Before you take a horse for a trial period, make sure that seller has insured the horse to cover any accidents or death that may result while the horse is in your possession. If the horse isn’t insured, take out a temporary policy on the animal yourself (the cost is $100, or so) and make sure that you stipulate the terms of your liability in writing (like who is responsible for the horse’s medical care during the trial and who is liable if the horse suddenly dies — whatever your insurance stipulates). Before you agree to be personally responsible for medical care when the horse is in your possession, be aware that equine medical bills can be high. In most cases, the seller is willing to assume this responsibility.
If a trial period or lease is out
of the question (some sellers don’t feel comfortable allowing the horse off
their property), try spending as much time with the horse as you possibly can
before you decide to buy him. Ask the seller whether you can come and see the
horse more than once, and when you’re with the animal, tie him, lead, and groom
him, and by all means ride him to get a sense of what the horse is really like.
Remember
During your trial period or lease, spend plenty of time with the horse so the two of you get acquainted. Perform the same tasks with the horse that you plan to do after you buy him — or at least as much as you can. If you want to trail ride, take the trial horse out on the trail. If you plan to jump, do some jumping with the horse. If your children or spouse are going to be involved with the horse after you buy him, have them spend time with the horse now so they can see how they feel about him. In addition, the horse’s ground manners are extremely important yet often overlooked when people are evaluating a horse for purchase. Use this time to see what kind of ground manners the horse has by spending time tying the horse, grooming him, and leading him around the barn.
The point of all this evaluation
is to make sure that you and your family are truly compatible with the horse.
If the horse hates being on the trail, constantly refuses jumps, or is so
ill-mannered that he drags you around when you lead him, you’re better off
finding out now as opposed to after you actually buy him.
Closing the deal
You’ve consulted with your
trainer/expert, spoken to your veterinarian, asked yourself some important
questions, and made a decision that you want to buy a particular horse. Now
comes the business part of the deal.
Remember
Fershtman suggests that the contract contain the following information:
- Names and pertinent information: Include the names of the buyer and seller, along with their respective addresses and telephone numbers.
- Legal rights: Ask for a guarantee that the seller is indeed the horse’s legal owner and has the right to sell the animal.
- Description: Include a description of the horse, including size, color, breed, and registration number, if any.
- The price that you and the seller agree upon: Indicate whether the seller has received full payment or whether you’re paying the price in installments. Be sure to indicate how much all installments are and the dates when they’re due. Also list where you are to send the installments and whether you are to will pay by check or money order. Include information on the recourses for you and the seller have if you are unable to make the payments.
- The date the horse becomes yours: If registration papers and pedigrees are involved, give the dates by which you can expect to receive each of these records.
- The terms of the warranty on the horse, if any: If you want the seller to guarantee the horse in any way, you must spell it out on the contract. The seller must agree to the warranty, of course. You can include express conditions, such as “does not rear,” “is free of any lameness,” or whatever you determine is most important to you, and whatever the seller will agree upon.
- Signatures of both parties.
Tip
If you want even greater protection than this brief contract can afford, consult an attorney who’s experienced in equine law and ask him or her to draw up a detailed contract.
Bringing Your Horse Home
Okay, you’ve bought yourself a
horse. Do you now just hop on his back and ride away?
No! You need to get the horse
home first. The seller may be willing to deliver the horse to your stable. If
not, you can hire someone with a trailer to pick up your horse up and bring him
to his new home.
Warning!
If you’ve never hitched up a trailer, loaded a horse, or driven a horse trailer before, we don’t suggest that you rent a trailer and do the job yourself — unless you have an expert on hand to help you with these tasks. Your horse must have a good experience (as opposed to a traumatic one) traveling to his new home. Right now, concentrate on getting your horse to wherever you plan to keep him. You can always work on your trailering skills later.
Remember
When your horse arrives at a new home, make him feel welcome by following these steps:
- Feed your horse: If plan to keep your horse in a stall or paddock, have food waiting for him and make sure that you give him the same food he’s been eating at his previous home so he doesn’t develop colic. (See Chapter Establishing an Everyday Routine for information on what to feed your horse.)
- Change food sources gradually: If you’re going to keep your horse in a pasture where grass is his primary food source, make sure that you gradually introduce him to the grass over a period of at least two weeks. By gradually, we mean keep him in a stall or paddock and feed him what his previous owner fed him, while letting him graze for only an hour the first couple of days, two hours the next couple of days, three hours the next two days, and so on, until his system acclimates to his new diet.
- Water your horse: Have clean, fresh water available in his enclosure.
- Stay with your horse for a while: Horses often are nervous and uncertain when they move from familiar surroundings to a strange new place. Your company helps soothe his worries and allows you to keep an eye on him as he takes in his new environment.
- Give your horse some adjustment time: Don’t ride him right away, and don’t take him to a horse show two days after he’s been in your possession! From the horse’s perspective, he’s just lost all that is familiar to him: his home, his routine, and most likely the person with whom he bonded. He needs time to adjust to his new life, and the two of you need time get to know one another.
- Give your horse attention: Spend time grooming him, talking to him, and just hanging out with him. Deliver his food yourself, and stand by him as he eats. Let him graze on some grass outside his stall while you hold his lead rope. All these things help foster a bond between the two of you.by Audrey Pavia with Janice Posnikoff,DVM
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