Showing posts with label Unleashing Your Dog. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Unleashing Your Dog. Show all posts

The State and Future of Dogs


Captivity is the state of being for our companion dogs, and as we’ve stressed, captivity carries significant costs. It’s not easy for dogs to live as our pets. Being “good dogs” requires a continual stream of limitations to their natural dogness. Regardless of whether dogs have “chosen” to evolve with us, they have very little choice in the specific human environments in which they live their lives, and often they have very little control over what they’re allowed to do. There is a crucial asymmetry in the human-dog relationship: We enjoy many freedoms and our dogs don’t. Dogs have only as much freedom as we allow them.

Because of the various constraints we place on the natural behavioral repertoire of our dogs, all pet dogs are behaviorally challenged to some degree. They are struggling to adapt, even when it seems as if they aren’t. It is the obligation of every dog guardian to make this struggle a little easier, to minimize the costs of captivity and reduce the daily deprivations experienced by our dogs as they try to adapt to our homes and neighborhoods. We can do this through paying careful attention to who dogs really are and what they really need.

Our basic message, and the basic freedom enhancer we’ve tried to emphasize throughout this book, is to let your dog be a dog, as much as possible, as often as possible, and with as much patience and goodwill as possible. As you do this, pay close attention to your dog’s unique personality and idiosyncrasies. Each dog is truly a distinct individual.

As the Beatles said so well, we all get by with a little help from our friends. We sometimes forget that the human-dog friendship is two-sided. We need to hold up our end of the friendship by being proactive in providing a good life for our companions. We need to find ways to adapt ourselves and our homes to our dogs. Enhancements and enrichments don’t fix the underlying disease of captivity, but they go a long way toward making the lives of our dogs happier and more fulfilled.

TEN WAYS TO MAKE YOUR DOG HAPPIER AND MORE CONTENT

1. Let your dog be a dog.

2. Teach your dog how to thrive in human environments.

3. Have shared experiences with your dog.

4. Be grateful for how much your dog can teach you.

5. Make life an adventure for your dog.

6. Give your dog as many choices as possible.

7. Make your dog’s life interesting by providing variety in feeding, walking, and making friends.

8. Give your dog endless opportunities to play.

9. Give your dog affection and attention every day.

10. Be loyal to your dog.

People often report that their dog is their most important source of emotional support. The reason? “My dog loves me for who I am,” people often reply. When we love and respect dogs for who they are, it is a win-win for everybody. We are most fortunate to have dogs in our lives, and we must work for the day when all dogs are fortunate to have us in their lives, too.

by Marc Bekoff and Jessica Pierce.

Play - A Kaleidoscope of the Senses


We’ve left our discussion of social play behavior until the end because play is a kaleidoscope of the senses. Play nicely draws together our discussion of how dogs use their senses in tandem to understand and interact with the world, other dogs, and humans. Play obviously involves sight and touch, as dogs watch one another closely and chase, mouth, and wrestle with one another. Play also involves hearing and vocalizing, as dogs emit play pants and play growls, and smell must certainly play a role, since odors are all-important to dogs. That only leaves taste, which is probably least important during play, but who knows? Perhaps when dogs mouth one another they are learning more than we realize.

That said, what is play? This deceptively simple question has troubled researchers for many years. We usually think we know it when we see it, but defining social play in a way that can guide research has been tricky. Some years ago, Marc and behavioral ecologist John Byers created a definition that incorporates many of the common features of play they and others have observed among various mammals. At the time they developed this definition, John had been studying wild pigs, or peccaries, in Arizona, and Marc was studying various members of the dog family, including domestic dogs, wolves, coyotes (captive and wild), jackals, and foxes. Here is the definition they came up with:

Social play is an activity directed toward another individual in which actions from other contexts are used in modified forms and in altered sequences. Some actions also are not performed for the same amount of time during play as they are when animals are not playing.

As you may notice, this definition centers on what animals do when they play; in other words, it names the structure that defines play, rather than focusing on the possible functions of play.

HOW DOGS PLAY

Defining play correctly, so that we can in fact recognize it when we see it, is the first step to understanding play’s many functions, or why it’s important. What this definition basically means is that play is a potpourri of different actions from different contexts, and a dog’s modifications of these actions and their use out of context are what help define them as play. For example, play often involves biting, but the biting is controlled so that it doesn’t cause pain or injury, as it would in the context of a fight. Restraint in play is called “self-handicapping.” High-ranking dogs will also often allow themselves to be “dominated” in play, and this is called “role reversing.” If this is done during play, there is no fear that they are going to be beat up or that another dog will try to usurp their position. Dogs act these ways during play because they know it’s safe to do so. Canine play also has some unique behavioral elements that are not frequently seen in other contexts, such as the “play bow.” This action is called a bow because it involves a dog crouching on their forelimbs, sticking their butt in the air, and perhaps wagging their tail or barking. The play bow is recognized by other dogs as an invitation to play.

Just like the human playground, where playing children learn important lessons about fairness and socializing, animals learn to cooperate and to play fairly when they’re romping around with their friends. Research has consistently shown that animals follow four basic rules of fairness during play: Ask first, be honest, follow the rules, and admit when you’re wrong. A lot of people get nervous when dogs play roughly, but the vast majority of play bouts among dogs are fair, and play only rarely escalates into real aggression. Melissa Shyan and her colleagues discovered that fewer than 0.5 percent of play fights in dogs developed into conflict, and only half of these were clearly aggressive encounters.1

If someone does something wrong while playing, dogs will correct one another with a mild rebuke that says something like, “Hey, I thought we were playing. You can’t do that if you want to keep playing with me.” Finally, play is always voluntary. During play, dogs can quit whenever they want to, and others often seem to know when one dog has had enough for the moment.

Of course, it can take some work to become skilled at distinguishing playful encounters from fighting, or from encounters that have an aggressive or agonistic element. We hope this chapter helps. It’s unfortunate when people don’t realize when play is just play and so break up a play session. People frequently do this at dog parks, for example; they misinterpret growling and barking as meaning that dogs are angry, when in fact they are only playing. Data show we need to give dogs credit for knowing what they’re doing when they play. So, be a careful observer, let dogs be dogs and have lots of fun with their friends, and remember that play rarely escalates into real aggression.

THE IMPORTANCE OF PLAY

Providing our canine companions with ample opportunities to play with their friends and to meet new playmates is one of the easiest and most important enrichments we can offer. People may mistakenly believe that play, because it’s fun and frivolous, is “extra” or not necessary. However, the opportunity for play — and lots of it — is crucial for a dog’s happiness and well-being. In addition to being fun and enjoyable, play serves many functions and helps satisfy a whole range of biological, emotional, social, and cognitive needs.2 It provides social and physical engagement with others that’s necessary for individuals to develop the social skills they need to be card-carrying members of their species.

That is, play helps develop and maintain social bonds and skills, builds motor skills, and is a great form of aerobic and anaerobic exercise. Play is cognitively challenging because, for example, it involves animals learning how hard they can bite, how to avoid running into things as they go nuts with their playmates, and how to read the complex composite signals of other dogs and people, often while on the run.3 Play is emotionally engaging because it makes dogs feel happy. When dogs and other animals play, they’re clearly enjoying what they’re doing. Animals often play just for the hell of it because it feels good. Play can also be an icebreaker and have what’s called an anxiolytic effect; that is, it reduces anxiety during tense situations, thereby preventing escalation to an aggressive encounter.

For all these reasons, social play is essential for sheltered dogs, since it helps them learn the requisite social skills they need for when they’re adopted and sharing a home with human companions. The organization called Dogs Playing for Life (DPFL) provides a joy-filled enrichment program that allows sheltered dogs to enjoy their time together and to romp with their friends while awaiting adoption; for an inspiring example, see DPFL’s video, “The Playgroup Change,” which shows how these dogs love to play.4 As DPFL makes clear, the social skills these dogs learn are good not only for them but also for the people with whom they will live.

In addition, play helps dogs and other animals “train for the unexpected,” or develop behavioral flexibility. The kaleidoscopic nature, unpredictability, and randomness of the actions that arise during play are inherent to play itself. Animals lost in play truly don’t know who will do what next. Based on an extensive review of available literature on play behavior in numerous species, Marc and his colleagues Marek Špinka and Ruth Newberry have suggested that this is one reason animals play: to practice improvising when faced with novel situations. For example, humping can follow biting; chasing can follow mouthing and wrestling; growling can follow face-licking; and at any moment, dogs may jump up, run around frenetically, and then leap at one another and wrestle once again.5 By increasing the versatility of movements and the ability to recover from sudden shocks, such as loss of balance and falling over, play can enhance the ability of dogs to cope emotionally with unexpected stressful situations. To obtain this “training for the unexpected,” dogs actively seek and create unexpected situations in play, which may be another reason why they actively put themselves into disadvantageous positions and situations.

It’s especially important for puppies to play. Play is part of the natural behavioral repertoire of many infant and juvenile wild and domesticated animals, including the wild relatives of domestic dogs. Indeed, play behavior among infants and juveniles has likely evolved in a wide range of species because it helps young animals develop into more successful adults. Much the same is said about human children. Play is critical for individuals to become functional members of their species, and during childhood, it provides early training in many of the skills individuals need to learn.

PLAY IS ITS OWN REWARD: ALL PLAY IS GOOD PLAY

Some dog owners get downright angry if they arrive at the dog park and their dog refuses to play with other dogs, or they worry that something is wrong with their dog. However, remember that play is voluntary, and for a number of reasons, dogs may prefer to do something else in any given moment. Some dogs may simply be more interested in sniffing along the fence, while other dogs may not see anyone they want to play with; dogs can be extremely picky about their playmates. There’s nothing wrong with this, and a picky dog will often get coaxed into playing eventually because dog play is contagious. Of course, dogs who have not been well socialized or who have experienced past trauma may be uncomfortable around other dogs and may be reluctant to play. Tragically, some dogs who never learned how to play as puppies can struggle with it as adults. However, even with these dogs, patience, time, and opportunity are usually all that are needed for many nonplaying dogs to become players and learn to do it well.

In addition, all play is good play. It doesn’t always have to involve other dogs. Dogs typically love to play with their human companions, as we enjoy playing with our dogs, whether in games of tug-of-war and hide-and-seek or in informal, improvised games, tricks, and teasing — such as a dog grabbing the ball just as their human bends down to pick it up. Although there is no research into the canine sense of humor, many people will attest that their dog does, indeed, seem to find certain things amusing.6 Some dogs also develop games and forms of playful interactions with any other species who live in the home, whether cats or birds.

Finally, dogs also like to play by themselves. Jessica’s canine friend Poppy, for example, loves to toss socks and pinecones through the air so she can chase them, and Bella will sometimes use her front paws to bury her ball in the snow so that she can hunt for it again.

One kind of solitary play activity, particularly in puppies, is what are sometimes called “zoomies.” Another, more scientific term for this behavior is “frenetic random activity periods,” or FRAPs. Zoomies are high-energy bursts of activity in which dogs look like they are possessed by the devil, after which they often lay down exhausted as if they’ve run a marathon. Dog trainer Steven Lindsay, one of the few people to write formally about zoomies, describes the behavior as solitary, spontaneous, and undirected play. He notes as follows:

The spectacle may cause first-time dog owners to suspect that their dog has momentarily lost its mind. Dogs exhibiting such behavior appear to be possessed by a torrent of spontaneous locomotor impulses. They rush about as though careening around obstacles or fleeing from a nonexistent pursuer closing in from behind. Occasionally, a dog may appear to scramble forward faster than its body can follow, creating a hunched-up appearance as it steers wildly along its frenetic path. As the playful release reaches a climax, the dog may display a wide open-mouthed smile, wedging its ears back.7

Why do dogs engage in zoomies? Nobody really knows, and it may be different for each dog. Puppies seem to engage in zoomies more than adult dogs, and some dogs zoom more than others. When she was ten months old, Poppy was very much into zoomies, and Poppy’s human, Sage, thinks that zoomies give Poppy an adrenaline rush. When asked what triggers Poppy to do zoomies, Sage answered, “Being a jerk.” When Poppy has been teasing other dogs through a fence, stealing things from other dogs, or disobeying Sage, the zoomies begin. Jessica’s older dogs don’t do zoomies very often, but the one reliable trigger for both dogs is a bath. As soon as they get released from being dried off, they zoom around the house for a few minutes before collapsing in exhaustion. Another trigger for Bella is running through the tall grasses in an open field behind the local high school. Suddenly, Bella will just start to race around in playful circles and be crazy. Then, just as abruptly, she will stop and go back to the regular business of walking, as if nothing had happened.

There’s no reason to try to stop zoomies, but if you have a zooming dog, make sure your dog can’t get hurt by running into things that may topple or by tripping over an electric cord, and so on. And make sure to protect yourself. A super-excited dog can easily take out a kneecap. Just keep watch, step back, and keep your knees bent, so your legs can absorb the shock if your dog accidentally zooms into you.

As with so many other aspects of dog behavior, detailed studies of zoomies are sorely needed, and we look forward to seeing the results of these projects. For whoever does the research, it will certainly be a lot of fun. And, who knows, they might jump right in and zoom themselves.

In summary, it’s essential that people learn how to identify play behavior in their dogs and then let their dogs play to their hearts’ content. As with other types of behavior, play provides a great opportunity for us to learn about our own dog and about dogs in general. So make a play ethogram and carefully observe your dog’s playful interactions. Who knows what you may discover?

by Marc Bekoff and Jessica Pierce.

Note

1. Melissa R. Shyan, Kristina A. Fortune, and Christine King, “‘Bark Parks’: A Study on Interdog Aggression in a Limited-Control Environment,” Journal of Applied Animal Welfare Science 6, no. 1 (2003): 25–32, http://freshairtraining.com/pdfs/barkparks.pdf. Although Marc and his students didn’t keep detailed records on this aspect of play for dogs, they observed that play didn’t turn into serious fighting more than around 2 percent of the time among the thousands of play bouts they observed. Current observations at dog parks around Boulder, Colorado, support this conclusion. Additionally, he and his students observed numerous play bouts among wild coyotes, mainly youngsters, and on only about five occasions did they see play fighting escalate into serious fighting.

2. For a detailed discussion of dogs’ needs, see Linda Michaels, Do No Harm: Dog Training and Behavior Manual (2017), https://gumroad.com/lindamichaels; and Linda Michaels, “Hierarchy of Dog Needs,” Del Mar Dog Training, http://www.dogpsychologistoncall.com/hierarchy-of-dog-needs-tm.

3. Rebecca Sommerville, Emily A. O’Connor, and Lucy Asher, “Why Do Dogs Play?: Function and Welfare Implications of Play in the Domestic Dog,” Applied Animal Behaviour Science 197 (2017): 1–8.

4. For more information, see Marc Bekoff, “The Power and Importance of Social Play for Sheltered Dogs,” Animal Emotions (blog), Psychology Today, July 28, 2018, https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/animal-emotions/201807/the-power-and-importance-social-play-sheltered-dogs. See also the website Dogs Playing for Life (https://dogsplayingforlife.com) and their video “The Playgroup Change” (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1arizcmufkqi3vjezamt9nhc5ljtbx2fp/view).

5. Marek Špinka, Ruth Newberry, and Marc Bekoff, “Mammalian Play: Training for the Unexpected,” Quarterly Review of Biology 76 (2001): 141–68, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11409050. See also Marc Bekoff, “How and Why Dogs Play Revisited: Who’s Confused?” Animal Emotions (blog), Psychology Today, November 29, 2015, https://www.psychologytoday.com/blog/animal-emotions/201511/how-and-why-dogs-play-revisited-who-s-confused.

6. Bekoff, “Dogs Just Want to Have Fun,” chap. 3 in Canine Confidential.

7. Steven Lindsay, ed., Handbook of Applied Dog Behavior and Training, vol. 3 (Ames, IA: Iowa State Press, 2005), 322.

Exercising and Enhancing the Senses - Hearing


Dogs’ ears come in many shapes and sizes — long and short, floppy and erect, and all variations in between. Dogs’ ears are surprisingly mobile. More than eighteen muscles control the pinna, or earflap, alone, which allows the nuanced movements that make dogs’ ears so expressive and so good at picking up sounds. Dogs move their ears to communicate how they are feeling. They also move their ears to facilitate hearing. Every dog owner will recognize the “pricked ears” of a dog who is suddenly attentive. The up and open ears allow dogs to best capture sound. The ear muscles also allow dogs to turn their ears like a periscope to follow the direction of a sound. If we watch a dog’s ears for cues, we can likely gather information about our surroundings that we would have missed. Marc used to watch his dogs’ ears when hiking around their mountain home, which they of course shared with all sorts of wild animals. When there were cougars, black bears, or other potential predators around, the dogs’ ears perked up and their noses often tilted upward. Marc took these responses as signals that it was time for all to head home immediately to avoid a possible confrontation.

Dogs have far more sensitive hearing than humans and can detect much quieter sounds. Their sense of hearing is about four times as sensitive as ours, so what we hear at twenty feet, a dog can hear at about eighty feet.1 They also hear a lot of things we don’t because they can hear higher-frequency sounds. From available data, scientists suggest that dogs hear in frequencies as high as 67,000 cycles per second (also called hertz), while humans hear frequencies up to 64,000 cycles per second.2 This means there are some sounds that are inaudible to us but quite available to our dogs. For example, they can hear the high-pitched chirping of mice running around inside the walls or in the woodpile. Also, some of the electronics in our homes emit constant high-frequency sounds we don’t notice but which can be distressing to dogs.

Relatively little systematic research has been done on how dogs use sound and hearing in their interactions with the world and in their encounters with people and other dogs. We know that dogs make a lot of different sounds, including growls, barks, whines, whimpers, howls, and pants, but scientists don’t fully understand how these different vocalizations function in interactions with others. And we also don’t know which aspects of vocal communication have evolved specifically to facilitate social interactions with humans. For instance, dogs are the only canid species to bark frequently, but perhaps surprisingly, we still don’t know all that much about what dogs are trying to say with their barks. Preliminary data also suggest that dogs seem to “laugh.” During play, dogs will emit a kind of forced exhalation called the “play pant,” which seems to be used to initiate play and to signal during play “this is still play, and not a fight.”3 It will be fascinating to see how research into canine vocal communication evolves.

Many people use verbal commands or vocal signals to communicate with their dog. As we mention in the section on sight, dogs may pay more attention to gestures than they do to spoken commands, and they may get confused when our visual and auditory signals don’t align. Researchers have also found that dogs listen not only for certain words but to tone of voice, and intonation may be more important in how dogs read a signal than the actual word spoken. Using fMRI techniques, researchers at a dog cognition lab in Hungary scanned the brains of dogs as the dogs listened to recordings of their trainers’ voices. The trainers used praise words (such as “well done”) and neutral words (such as “however”) and spoke them in a high-pitched “good dog” voice and in a neutral voice. The results of this study showed that dogs used their left hemisphere to process the words, and their right hemisphere to process the intonation, or emotional content, of the words, which is how human brains process speech. When praise words were spoken with a praising intonation, the reward center of the brain was activated, but not when praise words were spoken with neutral intonation. In other words, dogs listen to the words and the emotional content of our speech, and the emotional content has more salience.4

Unlike other senses — particularly smell and taste — where pet dogs often suffer from a lack of sensory stimulation, hearing can entail the opposite problem. Dogs often suffer from too much noise or from exposure to sounds that they find aversive or frightening, which constitute serious freedom inhibitors. Of course, we should try to give our dogs the freedom to hear and communicate with sounds, but we also need to think about the overall soundscape and protect dogs from noises they don’t like.

BARKS AND GROWLS: THE LANGUAGE OF DOGS

Barks and growls are two of the most common dog vocalizations, and they are used to communicate with both other dogs and humans. Vocal communication in dogs is extremely complex and not very well understood. In her analysis of dog vocalizations, German ethologist Dorit Feddersen-Petersen notes that even the meaning and function of barking is controversial. Some scientists consider barking a highly sophisticated acoustic form of expression, while others think barking is “noncommunicative.”5 Dog barking is difficult to study for a whole variety of reasons, including the fact that dogs come in a huge variety of shapes and sizes. There are big differences in the length of the vocal tract and thus in the sound quality of vocalizations. Just think of the difference between the bark of a Great Dane and of a Yorkie. Are they even speaking the same language?

Feddersen-Petersen believes that barks have definite communicative significance, and dogs use them to convey information about motivation and intention. Dog barks have a mixture of what scientists call “regular” (or harmonic) and “irregular” (or noisy) acoustic components. While wolves vocalize using noisy components only, dogs use a whole range of harmonic and noisy forms in various mixtures. Different breeds of dogs seem to have evolved unique vocal repertoires, ones based on the human environments in which they have lived. Assessing the meaning of a bark — or more accurately, a string of barks, since barks are rarely singular — is challenging and requires looking at the context and whether the bark elicits a response from a social partner (either a dog or human). It may be that barking and other vocalizations have evolved particularly to facilitate dog-human social interactions.

One way to get to know your dog better is to make an ethogram focused solely on the various barks, growls, and other sounds they use in your company and in the company of other dogs. Can you distinguish between different kinds of barks — such as sharp and high-pitched; low-pitched; coming in a steady stream or in short bursts, and so on — and can you identify what may have triggered the bark? For example, was it the postal delivery person walking by, another dog barking in the distance, or impatience because you are slow getting your shoes on for the morning walk? After studying the vocal sounds of your own dog, watch other dogs in your neighborhood or at a dog park.

Barking is a key part of the natural behavioral repertoire of dogs and is likely an important means of communication. Letting our dogs be dogs means letting them talk with one another, which means letting them vocalize. Of course, barking is often treated as a problem, and “excessive” barking — which is always defined by humans — can become a very serious issue for dog owners. A barking dog can be incredibly annoying to us and perhaps to other dogs and animals. Excessive barking is a common reason for dogs being relinquished to shelters, and it can be one of the more frustrating aspects of dog ownership. While some barking is normal, too much barking can be a sign of boredom, frustration, or stress. Trainers and dog psychologists can often help identify underlying issues that might drive excessive barking. If dog barking really bothers you, it’s probably best not to get a dog.

Sometimes people deal with a dog who barks too much by having the dog’s voice box surgically removed. In one particularly shocking case of “problem barking,” a couple in Oregon was ordered by a court to have the voice boxes of their six dogs removed because they had failed to control the dogs’ barking over ten years.6 “Debarking” — or “bark softening,” as some euphemistically (and offensively) call it — involves severing the vocal cords and is, simply put, seriously harmful to dogs. The procedure permanently eliminates one of the dog’s main means of communication, which qualifies as a severe freedom inhibitor. Severing the vocal cords is never the best response to barking behavior, and a dog who has been subjected to this horrific procedure can no longer really function comfortably as a dog.

In addition to barking, dogs often growl. Whereas barks are often used to communicate at a distance, growls are generally low volume and used in close communication. Different kinds of growls carry distinct meanings and have different emotional content. For example, during play, including during tug-of-war between dogs or between a dog and a human, a dog may growl quite loudly, without showing any teeth, but this is usually meant as part of play and not to signal genuine anger or aggression. Growls produced as serious warnings will likely be low-pitched and come either from the chest or mouth, with varying levels of bared teeth. Research has shown that dogs growl “honestly” in serious encounters (the “size” of the growl accurately reflecting the size and aggression-level of the dog), but they show more variability in their growling when they play. Even when dogs growl during play, it almost never leads to fighting (less than 2 percent of the time).7 Dogs can reliably distinguish between a prerecorded “food growl” and a “stranger growl” and respond appropriately.8

Whatever else growling may mean, it clearly can be used as a serious warning or signal of potential aggression, so we need to pay very close attention to the rest of a dog’s body language when a dog growls. Humans are not always very skilled at reading the intention of dog growls, though people with more experience around dogs are better at distinguishing between playful and aggressive growls, and women appear to do better than men.9 As with all the senses, it’s important to become dog literate and learn as much as you can about your dog’s growls. Along with a “bark ethogram,” consider also making a “growl ethogram” for your dog.

WHINING AND WHIMPERING: A CALL FOR HELP

Two other common types of vocalization are whimpering and whining. These are distinct vocal communication patterns, although they are sometimes hard to distinguish and many people lump them together as “crying.” Whining tends to be louder and higher-pitched, while whimpering is quieter and lower. Whimpering usually means that a dog isn’t feeling well and is sick, nervous, or in pain. The communicative function of whining is not as clear.

A 2017 study on the relationship between dog vocalizations and separation-related anxiety is a good example of the kind of research we need to better understand and help our dogs. Excessive barking is typically considered one of the main symptoms of separation-related disorder (SRD) in family dogs, but in this study, Peter Pongracz and his colleagues wanted to confirm whether dogs with separation anxiety vocalize their distress through barking, through whining, or by using both vocalizations. Pongracz’s team found, contrary to popular belief, that dogs with separation anxiety were more likely to whine than to bark, particularly at the departure of their human, and that “early onset and abundance of whining may serve as a reliable tool for diagnosing SRD.” Whines and barks likely reflect different inner states. Another interesting finding from Pongracz’s study was that a dog’s age was the most influential factor in determining onset and abundance of barks during a short separation. Younger dogs barked sooner and more than older dogs.10

One common myth about “crying” in dogs is that dogs always whimper when they are in pain. While it is true that dogs in pain will sometimes whimper, they don’t always vocalize their distress. A lack of whimpering does not mean a dog isn’t in pain, since sometimes dogs only whimper when pain has progressed to an intolerable level. At that point, just as in humans, the cause of the pain has often progressed to a point where it is more difficult to treat. With any injury or medical problem, the ideal is to notice pain early and address the cause quickly with appropriate care or medications. There are two lessons here: 1) If your dog is whimpering, it’s possible that something is seriously wrong, so please seek the advice of a veterinarian; and 2) don’t rely on vocalizations alone to determine whether your dog is uncomfortable. Be sensitive to other behavioral cues, such as body posture and mobility, and investigate any suspected problems right away.

BABY TALK AND YOUR DOG

Nearly everyone has either done it or seen it done with a dog. Someone kneels down, vigorously rubs a dog’s face and head, and starts cooing and babbling: “What a sweet boy! Aren’t you a sweet boy? Look at those sweet little paws! Who loves their baby, huh?” Dogs often feel like furry, excitable children, and so we use “baby talk” with them, or as scientists call it, “infant-directed speech . . . characterized by higher and more variable pitch, slower tempo and clearer articulation of vowels than in speech addressed to adults.”11

Is this a problem? Do dogs like it or care, or do they simply tolerate it because they have no choice? And why exactly do we engage in this bizarre behavior?

A study published in 2017 tried to shed some light on pet-directed speech. The researchers learned that although people are more likely to use baby talk with young puppies, they also consistently use this speech pattern with older dogs. For their part, young puppies were more drawn to baby talk than normal human speech, while older dogs seemed to ignore it.12

Thus, with dogs, it seems like we sometimes prefer to treat them like children, no matter how old and mature they are. Does baby talk harm dogs? Probably not in itself. Since it nearly always expresses our affection, many dogs probably enjoy it to one degree or another. Then again, older and other dogs may find it grating and confusing, much like human adults would if spoken to that way. Observe your own dog to see what their reaction is, if anything, to this type of speech.

However, animal ethicists aren’t so keen on baby talk because they say it may reinforce a tendency to “infantilize” dogs and ignore their intelligence and agency as individual beings with specific, dog-related needs, such as the need to run free with other dogs. Similar to when people dress up dogs in pink tutus or tartan sweaters, baby talk may encourage people to treat dogs like toys or dolls, as unaware objects to play with, rather than as subjective, sentient individuals.

TURN DOWN THE VOLUME: PROTECT YOUR DOG’S HEARING

With the senses of smell and taste, we’ve discussed how sensory deprivation can be a serious freedom inhibitor. The opposite is more often true with hearing. Our world can at times be very loud and noisy, and certain sounds can be very distressing to our canine companions, so an important freedom enhancer is to respect a dog’s need for quiet and to avoid auditory overload. We might like to turn AC/DC or Spinal Tap up to eleven, but it is likely that screeching, feedback-filled rock music is actually painful to a dog’s ear. If you like to play loud music — or if you do anything that creates very loud, high-pitched noise, like running a vacuum cleaner or using power tools — always make sure your dog has a place to go that is protected from the sound.

Above all, pay attention to a dog’s behavior for signs that an environment is too painfully noisy for them, for whatever reason. For instance, Jessica once attended a summer Gin Blossoms concert at an outdoor venue in Fort Collins, Colorado. In theory, it was an ideal venue to bring a dog, and people were spread out on blankets and folding chairs in the grass. However, perhaps because the concert was outdoors, the sound was turned up so loud that the music was actually distorted, and Jessica had to cover her ears with her hands and leave early because the sound was physically painful. She wasn’t alone. About fifteen feet away from her was a couple with their dog, who was clearly agitated, with his ears pulled back, tail down, and panting. His owners seemed totally oblivious to the dog’s discomfort and showed no intentions of leaving.

Just as with people, it’s also likely that dogs can suffer permanent damage and hearing loss from long-term exposure to extremely loud noises. There has been no research into noise-related canine hearing loss, but plenty of research confirms the effects on human hearing, and there’s no reason to think that a dog’s ears are any less sensitive to damage. It’s well known that hunting dogs can experience noise-induced hearing loss. Even the sound of a single gunshot or explosion, if it occurs too close to a dog, can rupture the eardrum or damage the inner ear. Further, ear infections can also cause permanent hearing loss if not treated properly.

We owe it to our dogs to pay close attention to all the sounds we expose them to and to do what we can to protect their long-term health. However, perhaps the easiest hearing-related freedom enhancer you can provide for your dog is to silence their dog tag. If dogs could talk, that might be their number-one noise complaint. The constant jingling of the tag on their collar gets in the way of listening to the world around them, particularly when they are walking, running, or playing, and this keeps them from fully using their acute sense of hearing to experience their surroundings. Tag silencers — little neoprene covers that hold the tags together — are a cheap intervention that will be greatly appreciated by your dog.

BE SENSITIVE TO NOISE PHOBIAS

Many dog guardians know that certain sounds send their canine companion into a tizzy fit. Some of the common culprits are fireworks, gun sounds, and thunder. Indeed, studies suggest that nearly half, and perhaps as many as three-fourths, of all family dogs are afraid of certain noises and will show at least one behavioral sign of fear when exposed to them.13 These behavioral signs include trembling, shaking, panting, salivating, hiding, and peeing or pooping in the house. These fear responses are often called noise phobias, particularly when the fear is related to a specific stimulus (such as a thunderstorm) and when the behavioral response is extreme, such as scratching through a wooden door trying to escape.

People may chuckle when they pop Bubble Wrap and their dog trembles in fright, but noise phobias are no laughing matter. The trembling is a sign of acute stress, and stress, as we know, is bad for your health. When people get genuinely scared, they sometimes joke that it “just took a year off my life!” Well, there is some truth to this, and we should take these fears seriously. Our dogs deserve it.

To help reduce the chance that noise phobias will develop, we can avoid exposing puppies to frightening sounds, and we can socialize puppies to a wide variety of sounds. There’s some evidence that early exposure to a frightening sound increases the risk of developing a related phobia, so as much as possible, protect puppies from sudden or loud noises. Then, some people also find that gradual desensitization to a scary sound can help prevent phobias and, in some cases, help a dog move past their fears. As part of their puppy socialization classes, the Humane Society of Boulder Valley (Colorado) includes a gradual exposure to the sound of fireworks. A very soft recording of fireworks popping is played in the background while the puppies are given a constant stream of treats and praise. Each week the volume is increased just a bit. The puppies don’t even notice the fireworks because they are so interested in getting treats and playing with the other puppies.

Despite these efforts, dogs may still develop aversions to certain sounds, and we must do our best to protect our friends from them. In addition, noise sensitivity can be an indicator of pain, so when dogs show fear or anxiety with loud noises, a visit to the veterinarian may be in order.14 In extreme cases, dogs with noise phobias may need to see a behavioral specialist. Prescription medications may help relieve anxiety in some dogs, and they could be used prophylactically in situations where people cannot control the source of a noise, such as thunderstorms and July Fourth fireworks.15

DOGS NEED YOU, NOT THE RADIO

Sometimes when a dog must be left alone for long periods of time, people turn on the TV or radio, hoping that this will comfort or “entertain” the dog the way it might a person. However, this may not actually be doing a dog any favors. It’s unlikely that television images — even of jumping squirrels — music, or an audiobook will be inherently interesting to them. If anything, the noise of a TV or radio might interfere with a dog’s ability to hear outside sounds, which might be more important. Most dogs consider it a vital part of their job to protect their family and their home, so they may prefer to spend their day listening to “natural” sounds from outside, which are likely more interesting, stimulating, and enriching.

Leaving a radio on all day won’t hurt a dog (unless the volume is too loud), and indeed, some dog trainers and veterinarians report that certain kinds of music and recorded sounds can have a calming effect and may have some application in treating separation anxiety and noise phobias.16 But all in all, TV, radio, and music aren’t substitutes for human interaction. The best treatment for separation anxiety, loneliness, and boredom is to not leave a dog alone for long periods of time.

by Marc Bekoff and Jessica Pierce.

Note

1. Beth McCormick, “Fido Can Hear You, but Is He Really Listening?” Starkey Hearing Technologies, November 1, 2017, https://www.starkey.com/blog/2017/11/can-my-dog-understand-me.

2. George M. Strain, “How Well Do Dogs and Other Animals Hear?” Deafness in Dogs & Cats (Louisiana State University), last updated April 10, 2017, https://www.lsu.edu/deafness/hearingrange.html.

3. P. R. Simonet, M. Murphy, and A. Lance, “Laughing Dog: Vocalizations of Domestic Dogs during Play Encounters,” paper presented at the meeting of the Animal Behavior Society, Corvallis, OR, 2001.

4. A. Andics et al., “Neural Mechanisms for Lexical Processing in Dogs,” Science 353 (September 2016): 103032, http://science.sciencemag.org/content/353/6303/1030.

5. Dorit Feddersen-Petersen, “Communication — Vocal: Communication in Dogs and Wolves,” in Encyclopedia of Animal Behavior, ed. Marc Bekoff (Westport, CT: Greenwood Press, 2004), 38594.

6. Aimee Green, “Owners Must Surgically ‘Debark’ Loud Dogs, Court Rules,” Oregonian, August 31, 2017, http://www.oregonlive.com/pacific-northwest-news/index.ssf/2017/08/owners_must_surgically_debark.html.

7. Bekoff, “A Dog Companion’s Guide,” chap. 9 in Canine Confidential.

8. Tamás Faragó, “Dog (Canis familiaris) Growls as Communicative Signals” (PhD thesis, Eötvös Loránd University, Budapest, 2011), http://teo.elte.hu/minosites/ertekezes2011/farago_t.pdf.

9. Tamás Farago et al., “Dog Growls Express Various Contextual and Affective Content for Human Listeners,” Royal Society Open Science 4 (May 17, 2017): 170134, doi: 10.1098/rsos.170134.

10. Peter Pongracz et al., “Should I Whine or Should I Bark?: Qualitative and Quantitative Differences between the Vocalizations of Dogs with and without Separation-Related Symptoms,” Applied Animal Behaviour Science 196 (November 2017): 6168, doi: 10.1016/j.applanim.2017.07.002.

11. Tobey Ben-Aderet et al., “Dog-Directed Speech: Why Do We Use It and Do Dogs Pay Attention to It?” Proceedings of the Royal Society B 284 (January 11, 2017), http://rspb.royalsocietypublishing.org/content/284/1846/20162429.

12. Ibid.

13. Emily Blackwell, John Bradshaw, and Rachel Casey, “Fear Responses to Noises in Domestic Dogs: Prevalence, Risk Factors, and Cooccurrence with Other Fear Related Behaviour,” Applied Animal Behaviour Science 145 (2013): 1525, https://www.appliedanimalbehaviour.com/article/s0168-1591(12)00367-x/abstract. See also Katriina Tiira, Sini Sulkama, and Hannes Lohi, “Prevalence, Comorbidity, and Behavioral Variation in Canine Anxiety,” Journal of Veterinary Behavior 16 (2016): 3644, https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/a3de/432e01cbfbc60c17a662219d6262344b2451.pdf.

14. “Dogs with Noise Sensitivity Should Be Routinely Assessed for Pain by Vets,” Phys-Org, March 20, 2018, https://phys.org/news/2018-03-dogs-noise-sensitivity-routinely-pain.html.

15. M. Korpivaara et al., “Dexmedetomidine Oromucosal Gel for Noise-Associated Acute Anxiety and Fear in Dogs: A Randomised, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Study,” Veterinary Record 180, no. 14 (April 8, 2017), https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28213531.

16. “Research,” iCalmPet, accessed September 8, 2018, https://icalmpet.com/about/music/research.

Exercising and Enhancing the Senses - Sight


We tend to think of humans as visual mammals and dogs as olfactory and auditory mammals, but science is challenging these stereotypes. The visual world we make available to our dogs is worth considering because it can impact their well-being. Let’s consider the canine visual cosmos.

Exercising and Enhancing the Senses - Touch


Touch, like the other senses, has many facets. In this chapter, we consider touch very broadly, so that it includes not just dogs’ physical contact with the world but also their interactions with their physical environment and with other dogs and people.

Exercising and Enhancing the Senses - Smell

We begin with the sense of smell, which plays the lead role in a dog’s experiential world. A dog’s world is a continuous cacophony and symphony of odors swirling around and into their noses. As “nosed animals,” a term we borrow from Alexandra Horowitz, dogs live in, and are consumed by, a world of smells.1 Our human sensory experience is dominated by sight, so to understand the world from our dog’s perspective, we really need to use our imagination and think about “seeing” the world through our nose. When we walk dogs on a leash and they stop to smell something, it is almost like they are stopping to read a very interesting news headline or hear some important neighborhood gossip. Dogs gather information first and foremost through their nose, not primarily through their eyes or ears.

Canine Captives

 

Unleashing Your Dog is a field guide to living with dogs in ways that enhance everyone’s quality of life and that expand the freedom for dogs to really be dogs. Leashes are symbolic of our complicated relationship with our canine companions: They literally tie us together, one on each end. To people, the leash represents going out into the world with our dogs and giving them time to sniff, run, play, chase, have fun, roll, pee, poop, hump, and otherwise express themselves. To dogs, the leash likely represents these things, but it is also a tether that constrains their freedom because the leash is our means of control. It ensures that dogs are only allowed to go where we say, when we say, under our terms. Unleashing dogs means finding ways to let them have more freedom.

Exercising and Enhancing the Senses - Taste


A dog’s sense of taste is far less sensitive than our own. Dogs only have around 1,700 taste buds, whereas we have about 9,000. Humans can taste all five flavors: salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami (savory). Dogs (as far as we know) taste only salty, sweet, sour, and bitter. It’s interesting to note how much variation there is in how well and what sorts of things animals can taste. For example, pigs have a more sensitive sense of taste than we do, possessing about 14,000 taste buds. Chickens have only about 30 taste buds, while cats have around 470. During their evolution, cats lost the gene that detects sweet flavors.

Exercising and Enhancing the Senses


If it’s true that dogs are captive animals — because their experience of the world is largely, if not totally, influenced by what we, their caregivers, provide for them — then we can make our dogs’ lives better by improving their environments and interactions in their terms. We can protect them from the stressful aspects of human environments, allow them as much freedom as possible to be themselves, and empower them to make choices and express their preferences.

Let’s see what this means in daily practice.

For all animals, including dogs, one defining aspect of “captivity” is that it is restrictive and separate from the environment in which the species evolved. Thus, many of the stimuli captive animals are exposed to are unnatural or novel (to them), and these unusual stimuli can elicit a fight-or-flight stress response, one the animal may not be able to adequately express because of captivity. To improve your dog’s life, think carefully about any sensory stimuli that cause stress and eliminate them. Enhancing our dogs’ freedom includes protecting them from unwelcome or uncomfortable sensory experiences.

Captive animals also may lack opportunities to engage in evolved behavior patterns typical of their species, ones they are “hardwired” to perform. When captive environments are monotonous and barren, they don’t allow animals to use their exquisitely evolved cognitive and sensory capacities, and this can lead to frustration and stress. For example, birds whose natural food-gathering behavior involves scratching the ground to find seeds will still “need” to scratch the ground, even if the ground is a concrete floor. When these types of evolved behavioral needs go unmet, individuals frequently engage in a wide range of unnatural behaviors, such as stereotyped pacing and self-destructive acts. Since human environments are frequently understimulating for dogs, we can also enhance their freedom by providing dogs with opportunities to exercise all their senses and reduce boredom through what are called “enrichments.”1 There’s a good deal of evidence that even simple enrichments can make animals happier and less stressed out.

To summarize, there are two powerful ways to improve the lives of dogs:

  1. Reduce the number of situations or stimuli that cause distress. This includes “aversive stimuli” — unpleasant sounds, smells, and physical sensations, such as feeling trapped — and failing to provide outlets for natural behaviors that dogs are highly motivated to perform. We call these “freedom inhibitors” or “deprivations.”
  2. Provide positive enrichments that stimulate the senses and provide opportunities for physical, psychological, and social engagement with the world. We call these “freedom enhancers” or “enhancements.”

If we think of captivity as a disease, one that causes unhealthy physical and emotional symptoms, then increased freedoms would be the antidote or remedy. Many of these are cheap, and none require a veterinarian’s prescription. Mostly, they only require us to proactively help our canine companions by looking for the ways our home environments might be hard on our dogs and addressing them: by offering dogs more choice, more stimulation, more engagement, more freedoms.

The rest of this book is a “field guide” to the five major sensory experiences of dogs: smell, taste, touch, sight, and hearing. For each, we feature the freedom-enhancing “interventions” you can provide for your dog; you might think of these as ways to “free” the canine senses. Obviously, some topics or behavioral issues involve multiple senses. Dogs respond to what ethologists call “composite signals” that contain potential information from several senses. While the book discusses each sense separately, that’s not how dogs use them in the real world.

However, by focusing on each sense, we use the science of how dogs experience and interact with the world to help you understand your dog’s point of view. Understanding the senses individually, and how they work together, helps us understand some of the challenges of being a dog in a human-centered world. Senses are connected to feelings, and if dogs are encouraged to have positive and interesting sensory experiences, they will likely experience an increase in their overall happiness — which is what we want!

Like a field guide, this book is meant to be a reference, one that describes each sense and its characteristics and then provides the most important enhancements we can give dogs. Similar to a field guide to plants, say — which will “key out” specimens, classifying or identifying them by certain characteristics, such as the type of leaf, the color of their flower, the height of the plant, and so forth — this book “keys out” your dog by looking at the different senses. In each section, a short introduction overviews the sense and then provides a list of ways you can enhance this sensory domain for your dog. Skip around and turn to the topics that are most relevant for you and your dog, as you would with any field guide.

Many of the enhancements we propose aren’t new. People who study dog cognition have been talking and writing about them for years. However, ongoing research focusing on canine behavior, cognition, emotions, and sensory physiology is generating a good deal of new information that has practical importance, and new data are constantly emerging. In many instances we integrate this new science into enhancements that may not yet have received much airtime.

We also try to bridge the gap that exists between the theoretical realm of canine cognitive science and the application of this research into the practical realm of dog teaching and training. That such a knowledge translation gap exists is understandable, given how much information is currently being generated by researchers all over the world. Like any field guide, this book captures the state of what we know right now about helping dogs adapt to human environments, but it will eventually need updating as new research expands, clarifies, and confirms what we know about dogs.2

CAVEATS: WHEN THE LEASH IS NEEDED

If, while reading this book, you become tempted to throw away your dog’s leash, here are two reminders why a leash is still at times useful and necessary: human etiquette and your canine companion’s safety.

Etiquette: Often the rules of human etiquette run counter to what dogs want, and we must curtail their freedom for the sake of maintaining friendly relations, not only with other dogs, but also with other people, whether our neighbors, our houseguests, or strangers on the street. A dog may, for example, really want to pee on the neighbor’s heirloom tomato plant; they may want to run free through the streets of town, greeting every human and dog in sight. Guardians must be attentive to and balance the needs of their dog and the needs of people. It’s counterproductive not to, or else others may experience dogs as troublesome, unwelcome pests and want to curtail their freedoms even further. Responsible dog guardians build community goodwill that benefits dogs and everyone in the long run.

Safety: It’s also essential to balance freedom with safety. As with human children, we need to avoid helicopter parenting and allow our dogs opportunities to make their own decisions and take risks, but within the constraints of parental supervision and good sense. Both children and dogs lack the experience and insight to appropriately judge risks or to anticipate what adults might consider obvious dangers, like busy roads. Balancing freedom with safety can surely lead to a better life for dogs and humans alike.


THE IMPORTANCE OF DOG TRAINING AND TEACHING

On the surface, it may seem counterintuitive, but one of the most important ways to increase freedom for your dog is to take training very seriously. When approached the right way, training isn’t about controlling your dog’s behavior but about you teaching

your dog to function successfully with you in your home and in human environments in general. Training techniques create a method of communication between you and your dog, one you both learn and understand together.

This book is not a training manual per se, but throughout we explore how positive training can contribute to a dog’s quality of life.

Here are some tips for approaching training in the most effective way:

  • Dog training is as much about teaching yourself as it is about teaching your dog. Educate yourself about dog behavior and training techniques.
  • The minute you bring a dog into your home, the teaching begins, whether the dog is a puppy or an adult. Puppies are eager to soak up information, if it is presented with patience and in ways appropriate to their age and skill set.
  • Training isn’t something you do once and it’s over. Training is a process, like learning, that continues every day and changes to account for the dynamic, changing interactions between dog and human.
  • The goal of training isn’t to create a robot dog who rigidly follows commands. Training provides dogs with a large toolbox of skills, understandings, and communication techniques that allow them to calmly navigate their surroundings with independence, confidence, and flexibility.
  • Don’t underestimate how challenging it is to train a dog well. Some dogs struggle more than others to adapt to life in a human environment, so be patient, consistent, and persistent. And enjoy the challenge, since ultimately it will be a win-win for all.
  • Since one goal of training is to build a relationship with your dog that strengthens the bond between you, don’t outsource training. If you need help, hire experts who are officially certified to practice dog training, but remain closely involved. Choose your dog trainer as carefully as you would a neurosurgeon.
  • Positive or “soft” training techniques are more successful and more humane than fear- or punishment-based techniques. There is never any reason to hurt or scare a dog.

by Marc Bekoff and Jessica Pierce

Note

1. The University of Doglando’s enrichment center is an excellent model for others who want to establish such a program (http://doglando.com/enrichment/our-enrichment-program). Its aim is to provide pet parents with a historical perspective of what dogs were bred to do and to facilitate dogs forming close working, collaborative, and mutually respectful relationships with humans. They provide a lifestyle that allows each dog to have experiences that result in rich mental, emotional, physical, and intuitive growth, while taking into account the unique characteristics of each and every dog.

2. We discuss the knowledge translation gap in detail in our book The Animals’ Agenda (see bibliography). The knowledge translation gap refers to our failure to use what we know on animals’ behalf.