In This Chapter
- Working well with your equine veterinarian
- Providing good housing
- Caring for your horse’s body and feet
- Controlling pests and parasites
In this chapter, we tell you how
to help your veterinarian work to keep your horse in good health. You also
discover the best living situations for your horse, as well as how to groom, care
for hooves, and keep parasites at bay.
Working with Your Vet to Ensure Good Care
Next to you, your horse’s
greatest ally is her veterinarian. He or she is the one to monitor your horse’s
condition if a problem arises, and is there to administer treatment if your
horse needs it.
More so than cat or dog owners,
horse owners work very closely with their equine companions’ veterinarians.
Your horse’s vet relies on you to keep a close watch over your horse’s health,
make appointments when necessary for evaluation and diagnosis, and comply with
treatment after it’s prescribed.
In the following sections, we
explain how to select a great vet for your horse, pay for the vet’s care
without breaking the bank, and get an all-important annual exam for your horse.
Decisions, decisions: Choosing a vet
Finding a good horse vet — or a
new vet, if you’re looking to make a change — isn’t hard if you know how to
look. And finding a good horse vet is important. Just like human
doctors, veterinarians come in different packages. Some have great bedside
manner, some are great diagnosticians. Some are simply better doctors than
others. It’s up to you to find the professional you most want to work with. The
steps in the following sections can help you find a good vet for your horse.
Warning!
Although your horse may be healthy right now, don’t wait until something goes wrong before you go looking for a vet. An emergency isn’t the time to start interviewing potential doctors — especially if the problem strikes in the middle of the night. Having a vet lined up before your horse officially needs one is good pre-planning, and will pay off most when you need help.
Ask for referrals
Remember
If at all possible, work only with a veterinarian who has a special interest in equine care. Equine veterinarians have chosen to work exclusively with horses (and sometimes with donkeys and mules too), and are specially trained to diagnose and treat equine illnesses. They have much more knowledge of horse issues than their small animal counterparts. At the very least, if you can’t find a veterinarian in your area who deals only with equines, make sure that the vet you choose has at least moderate experience with horses.
In order to locate a good horse
vet, you need to do a little research. Don’t pick your horse’s vet from the
phone book — use referrals as your best source for names.
The most important way to find
out who the best horse vets are in your area is through other horse owners. Ask
people who have horses which vets they prefer and why. Ask questions about why
they like these particular doctors. Do they have good bedside manner? Do they
have an area of special interest, such as lameness or dentistry? Find out the
doctors’ strong points and narrow your search down to one or two who appeal to
you.
In addition to asking other horse
owners for opinions, talk to trainers, breeders, and farriers. Anyone in the
horse business in your area should have opinions about the best vets in town.
You can also contact the American Association of Equine Practitioners (AAEP),
which can provide a list of member horse veterinarians in your area. (See the
appendix for AAEP contact information.)
Interview the vet
After you have a veterinarian’s
name or two, get on the phone and start asking questions. In most cases, you
get a receptionist or answering service when you call. Tell the person you
speak to that you’re thinking of becoming a new client, and find out whether
you can talk to the veterinarian. Find out how long he or she has been
practicing; whether he or she has any areas of special interest — and what they
are; and what he or she charges for routine procedures, farm visits, and
emergency calls. Find out where the vet will refer your horse in the event the
animal needs hospitalization or major surgery.
After you make contact with the
vet over the phone or in person, don’t be afraid to ask about training and
credentials, especially if you’re seeking a vet trained in acupuncture and
chiropractic, or any other type of alternative medicine. (See Chapter Checking
Out Complementary and Alternative Therapies for
more information about alternative medicine.)
If it’s time for your horse to
get vaccinations or have other preventative care performed, make an appointment
with the vet to have those things done so that you can see how he or she
handles your horse — and you — while also getting in your interview. If your
horse is up-to-date on shots and doesn’t need any particular care right now,
schedule a wellness exam so that you can meet the vet while also getting your
horse a professional once-over. (We discuss checkups and vaccinations in more
detail later in this chapter.)
Remember
When talking to the veterinarian, be sure to ask what he or she does for emergencies. Some vets are on call 24/7 and you can always reach them, even in the middle of the night. Other vets refer emergencies to another veterinarian, or to an equine hospital. Make sure that the vet’s emergency policies are to your liking.
Make a decision
Ultimately, the vet you choose to
be your horse’s medical care professional should be someone you’re comfortable with.
This person should have good bedside manner and should be able and willing to
explain complex situations to you in easy-to-understand terms. The vet should
also show a strong interest in your horse’s well-being, as well as your horse’s
behavior and training, and your personal goals with the horse. The vet should
also be accessible day and night, either directly or through an answering or
referral service.
Remember
No matter how impressive a vet’s credentials, it’s more important that the person really cares about you and your horse. A vet who truly cares refers your horse to a specialist when necessary, goes the distance to find answers to difficult problems, and constantly seeks knowledge and further training to improve his or her services to you and your horse. Your vet should provide you with information on the risks and benefits of any and all treatments and procedures, and should explain costs as well. A good vet is willing to recommend the best course of treatment for your horse given your financial and lifestyle circumstances.
If you make a decision and
ultimately decide that you don’t like the services you’re given, don’t hesitate
to switch veterinarians. Just make sure that you’re being fair to your vet and
discuss any problems or issues with him or her before you seek out a different
professional.
Covering healthcare costs right off the bat
One of the most difficult areas
of horse ownership is paying for healthcare costs when your horse gets sick.
Horses are big animals, and their veterinary bills are often large in stature
as well.
Many unfortunate horse owners
have had to make painful decisions to euthanize a sick horse because they
couldn’t afford the treatment. You can avoid this heartbreaking dilemma if you
plan ahead by using some or all of the info in the following sections.
Setting up a savings plan
One way that smart horse owners
deal with the potential for high veterinary costs is to create a savings plan
for their equines. By putting money aside for a rainy day (or, in this case, a
serious horse ailment), they wisely provide themselves with peace of mind.
Remember
To know how much money to put aside for an illness — or even for routine care — talk to your vet. Find out how much colic surgery costs in your area, because that’s often the greatest expense a horse owner faces. Then, get a schedule of associated costs for the yearly routine care that your horse will need. This care includes vaccinations, deworming, dentistry, and a Coggins test (which checks for equine infectious anemia), as well as health certificates if you plan to travel with your horse. After you have this information, figure out how much you need to put away each week or each month. Set the money aside in an interest-bearing, easy-access account, and add an extra 25 percent buffer just in case.
Tip
Having a credit card as a back-up plan, dedicated only to costly emergencies like a colic surgery, isn’t a bad idea. Coauthor Dr. Kate knows a number of horse owners who use this tactic, and it’s made the difference between life and death for their horse when an expensive, unexpected crisis has occurred.
Buying horse insurance
Another good way to be prepared for an equine health issue is to purchase horse insurance. Believe it or not, a number of insurance companies offer major medical insurance for horses. A policy like this can be a literal lifesaver in the event of a catastrophic illness. You can find equine insurance companies by checking the advertising in local and national horse publications, or ask your veterinarian for a suggestion.
Where horses are concerned, major
medical policies — which require a single premium paid once a year, determined
by the declared monetary value of the horse — typically cover costs such as
diagnostic procedures, surgery, medication, and visits by a veterinarian
associated with an illness or injury. Each incident has a deductible, which is
usually determined by the insurance company. (It’s unlikely that you’ll get to
choose this amount the way you can with a human health insurance policy.) In
many cases, you must supply a veterinary health certificate to the insurance
company to prove that your horse has no preexisting conditions.
Warning!
Major medical insurance for horses does have a drawback. Age restrictions almost always apply, and it’s rare if not impossible to find a policy that will cover a horse who’s 15 or older. Because most serious illnesses happen to horses in the senior category, discovering that your horse is too old to be covered can be frustrating.
Tip
A slightly less expensive alternative to major medical insurance for horses is a surgical-only policy. Surgical-only policies cover your horse’s expenses only as they relate to surgical care. Because equine surgeries tend to be expensive (anesthetizing and operating on an animal this big isn’t easy), many owners opt for this type of insurance because of the lower premium.
If you take out a major medical
policy or a surgical-only policy, you’re also required to have full mortality
coverage on the horse. This type of insurance pays out if the horse dies due to
illness or accident, and usually pays the estimated or declared value of the
horse. Technically, major medical and surgical-only policies are considered
riders to a full mortality policy. You can’t purchase them separately.
Joining a clinic-based HMO
Many veterinary clinics are
creating their own healthcare plans as a service to their clients, and as a way
to make sure that horses get the routine and preventative care that they need.
These plans also provide a savings to the owner. Veterinary HMOs work by having
the client pay, in advance, a fee that covers all routine veterinary care for
the coming year. These services usually include vaccinations, deworming, and
dentistry. The fee is less than it would be if you had the services
administered one at a time.
Not all veterinarians offer this
service, but it’s a good idea to ask whether your vet has such a plan. If your
vet does offer an HMO, ask him or her to give you details of the plan in
writing so that you know the specifics of the coverage.
Getting an annual checkup for your horse
Most people realize the value of
going to the doctor for a wellness exam every year. It’s a good time to touch
base with your doctor and make sure that everything is in working order.
Horses need annual physical exams
too, especially if they’re on the younger or older side. (But unlike humans,
who have to go to the doctor’s office for an exam, the vet usually makes a
house call to see your horse.) Making an appointment once a year to have your
horse checked out is a good idea. As with humans, most horse health problems
are much easier to fix if they’re caught early. In the following sections, we
walk you through the phases of a typical exam.
Your horse’s health history
The first thing your vet does
when he examines your horse is ask about her health over the past year. Has the
horse shown any signs of illness or injury? Have you seen any lameness, weight
gain, or weight loss? What about performance? Is your horse behaving as well
under saddle as she has in the past?
Remember
The answers that you provide to these questions help your veterinarian determine whether trouble may be brewing somewhere in your horse’s health. For this reason, it’s important to pay close attention to your horse’s behavior so that you have useful information to pass along to your vet. Flip to Chapter Connecting Your Horse’s Behavior to Health for information on observing your horse’s behavior and linking it to her health.
The physical exam
Next, your vet gives your horse
the once-over. He performs the following steps during the physical exam:
- Eye exam: Your vet looks into your horse’s eyes, using a light source. He’s looking for corneal scarring, cataracts, inflammation, and other signs of disease.
- Gut sounds: Your vet checks to see whether your horse’s digestive system is working well. Using a stethoscope, he listens to the sounds coming from the horse’s gastrointestinal system.
- Heart and lungs: The vet listens to your horse’s heart and lungs with a stethoscope.
- Tooth check: Your vet examines your horse’s mouth for missing teeth, overgrown molars, and poor alignment.
- Vital signs: The vet checks out basic life functions, including temperature, respiration, and pulse while at rest (see Chapter Sizing Up a Healthy Horse for details on these functions). After some light exercise, your vet may check these again. Abnormal readings are sometimes a way to detect illness.
After this exam, your vet will
have a good sense of how well your horse is feeling overall and how her body is
functioning.
Blood work
If you want your vet to get an
even more complete picture of what’s going on with your horse, you can have him
run a complete blood panel; this way, you get an idea of the general internal
health of your horse. This test requires taking blood from the horse’s jugular
vein and sending it out to a lab for analysis.
With a blood test, your vet can
get an overview on how well some of your horse’s organs are working. He can get
a picture of your horse’s liver and kidney function, as well an accurate count
of how your horse’s immune system is working at that time. You can also request
a thyroid evaluation and other tests. Discuss the options with your
veterinarian and see what he suggests.
Vaccinations
A host of infectious diseases
(like the ones described in Chapter Fighting
Infectious Diseases) are lurking in the environment, ready
to compromise your horse’s health at any moment. Vaccines are the best way to
protect your horse from some of the most deadly of these infections. Regular
vaccination is particularly important if your horse is exposed to other horses
by going to shows or living in a boarding stable (we talk about stables later
in this chapter).
Here are basic vaccines that are
needed in most parts of the country:
- Equine encephalomyelitis: Western equine encephalomyelitis (WEE), Eastern equine encephalomyelitis (EEE), and Venezuelan equine encephalomyelitis (VEE) are three strains of the same encephalomyelitis illness. They’re known to infect horses through the bite of a mosquito. This disease attacks the central nervous system and can cause severe neurological symptoms and even death. This vaccine is given at least once a year (more often to pregnant mares and foals).
- Influenza/rhinopneumonitis: These two respiratory illnesses have similar symptoms. Influenza can sometimes cause neurological disease, and abortions in pregnant mares. Some veterinarians recommend that horses be inoculated with flu/rhino vaccine as frequently as every three months to avoid respiratory conditions. (No vaccines are currently approved to prevent the neurological form of the virus.) Some vets may recommend it only once or twice a year if the horse is at low risk of exposure.
- Tetanus: Tetanus is contracted through open wounds. This bacterial disease can cause serious symptoms and even death. Horses are particularly susceptible to tetanus, so veterinarians recommend an inoculation of tetanus toxoid at least once a year.
- West Nile virus: This virus has been in the news a lot over the last few years. Humans, birds, and horses are most susceptible to it. Spread by mosquitoes, it attacks the nervous system. Horses who contract this disease can become permanently damaged, and death often results. Some vets inoculate twice a year for this illness, others just once a year.
The series of vaccinations that
your horse needs each year depends largely on where in the country you live,
the horse’s age, her environment, your travel plans with her, and her health
history. Many vaccines require several boosters to be given periodically after
the initial vaccine, and then annual or semiannual boosters. The horse’s
vaccination history can help your equine veterinarian advise you correctly on
this aspect of your horse’s routine healthcare. Certain illnesses are more
common in different places in the country, and vets are more vigilant about
giving particular vaccines in those areas.
The frequency with which your
veterinarian recommends vaccination depends on the vaccine, your region of the
country, and your veterinarian’s attitude toward vaccines in general. See the
nearby sidebar “Vaccinate with care” for more details.
Vaccinate with care
Although vaccinations are necessary to keep your
horse healthy, a trend has developed away from over-vaccination.
Veterinarians are now much more interested in providing individualized vaccine
programs versus “flock-shooting” all horses and vaccinating for everything
several times each year. Many veterinarians have become concerned in recent
years that over-vaccinating causes immune-related problems
in the long term.
If you’re concerned about over-vaccinating, ask your
veterinarian to check vaccine titers (a measurement of specific antibodies in
the blood) to see whether an adequate level of protection already exists.
(Keep in mind that checking titers may prove to be more costly than giving
the vaccine again.) If the titers show that the horse has adequate
protection, discuss with your vet the possibility of skipping the vaccine
this time around, and possibly using it next time instead.
Another issue of concern is giving too many vaccines
at once. If possible, try to spread out your horse’s vaccines so that you’re
not giving too many antigens (the element in vaccines that prompt the body to
produce protective antibodies) at one time. Remember, all a vaccination does
is ask the horse’s body to start producing immunity to that particular
disease. A horse who’s stressed at the time of vaccine administration, or soon
thereafter, may not respond by producing a sufficient amount of immunity to
ward off that particular disease. Though one scientific study has shown
otherwise, too many vaccines administered at one time may be too much of a
stress on the horse to achieve adequate immunity to all the diseases. Ask
your vet to devise a schedule that spreads out your horse’s yearly
vaccination program over several visits.
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Housing Your Horse Safely and Comfortably
If your horse lived in the wild,
all the world would be his home. Wild horses roam far and wide every day,
searching for the best plants to eat. They can cover as many as 20 miles a day,
rarely staying in the same area for very long.
Domestic horses are in a
completely different situation. Unlike their feral brethren, they’re forced to
live in confinement. Their physical and mental health can suffer under these
conditions if their owners don’t manage things right. It’s your job as a horse
owner to do what you can to make their living arrangements as natural and
pleasant as can be, using the guidelines in the following sections. (For even
more details on housing your horse, see Horses For Dummies, 2nd Edition,
written by coauthor Audrey with Janice Posnikoff, DVM, and published by Wiley.)
Telling the difference between different types of enclosures
Whether you board your horse at a
stable or keep your horse at home (see the following section), three basic
types of enclosures are available:
- Pasture: The most natural setting for a horse is in a pasture, because it mimics conditions in the wild. The horse can walk around and eat all day, the way he would in nature. If you have the option of boarding your horse in such a setting, you’re more likely to have a happy horse. Your horse is less likely to develop stable vices (see Chapter Connecting Your Horse’s Behavior to Health for details on these), digestive problems, and lameness if he has access to a pasture. Just be sure that the pasture is able to maintain the number of horses being kept on it, and that your horse is able to get along with the other horses. (See Chapter Your Hungry Horse: Feeding Fundamentals for more details on pastures.)
- Paddock: The next best thing to a pasture is a paddock, and the bigger the better. A paddock is a large enclosure that doesn’t include pasture grass. Horses love to be outside, because it feels most natural to them. They enjoy being around other horses and seeing the comings and going of everyone at the stable. Horses kept in large paddocks are healthier of mind and less prone to digestive and lameness issues than horses who are kept in stalls.
- Box stalls: Box stalls are the least natural enclosure choice for a horse. The horse is kept indoors (except in cases where the box stall has an outdoor run attached), and doesn’t have direct contact with other horses. Many people think that they’re doing their horse a favor by keeping him in a plush box stall filled with shavings and out of the weather, but in truth horses like to be outdoors in the dirt. Humans are the ones who prefer to live indoors!
Horses need a box stall only if you need to confine them for some reason, or if the weather is inclement and they have no other option for shelter. You may need to confine your horses when they recoup from a health problem or give birth (although some people, like coauthor Dr. Kate, prefer their mares to foal outside).
The big question: Boarding stables versus home accommodations
Whether to keep your horse at a
boarding stable or at home is often a decision that’s determined by where you
live. If you can’t keep a horse at your home, you’re pretty much restricted to
keeping him at a boarding stable (unless you have a friend or neighbor with
private horse property). If you have your own horse property, you may want to
keep your horse at home, and with good reason. Having your horse with you is
rewarding, and it gives you more control over your horse’s feeding and general
care.
Boarding stables
Horse owners who aren’t fortunate
enough to own their own horse property — or who don’t want the day-to-day tasks
of caring for a horse — rely on the services of boarding stables. Boarding
stables are commercial facilities that provide housing and limited care for
clients’ horses. They earn their income from the fees paid by horse owners
every month.
Accommodations at boarding
stables vary greatly by facility and region. Some provide large pastures where
you can keep your horse in the most natural setting possible. Others have
paddocks that are either fairly large or rather small. Many provide box
stalls, small enclosures that keep your horse constantly indoors (see the
earlier section, “Telling the difference between different types of
enclosures,” for details).
When choosing a boarding stable,
keep the following points in mind to ensure that your horse stays happy and
healthy:
- Clean, safe accommodations: Make sure that enclosures are clean, well constructed, and well maintained; if you see days’ worth of manure piled up and/or you get a strong smell of urine, find a different place to board. Gate latches must be secure and horse-proof. Avoid stables that use barbed wire, and make sure that pasture boarding provides shelter.
- Clean, safe surroundings: Avoid boarding at a run-down facility with junk lying around. This environment isn’t safe, healthy for your horse, or pleasant for you. Also, if management doesn’t take care of the property, they probably won’t take good care of your horse either.
- Clean, fresh water: Inspect the facility and make sure that each horse at the stable has a generous supply of water at all times. If you live in a cold climate, find out what method the facility uses for keeping water from freezing in the winter.
- Good security: Your horse is safest at a stable with 24-hour security. Not all boarding stables provide this kind of protection, but it’s a definite bonus if you can find one.
- Quality feed: If you’re pasture boarding, make sure that the grass is of good quality, and that it’s not overgrazed. (See Chapter Growing Your Own Food for more information on growing quality pastures.) If your horse will be eating hay, make certain that it’s of good quality. Inspect it, using Chapter Your Hungry Horse: Feeding Fundamentals as a guide.
Warning!
If grain is stored on the property, be sure that it’s kept securely locked up so that the horses can’t get to it. Any escaped horse who gets into the grain is in danger of becoming colicky or developing laminitis. (See Chapter Tackling Common Ailments for more information on these problems.)
Warning!
Use caution with stables that feed only commercial pelleted feed with no other options. A diet consisting solely of pellets and no, or minimal, roughage (in other words, no hay or pasture) is unhealthy for your horse. If a stable that you like feeds only pelleted feed as part of your regular boarding agreement, make sure that it agrees to feed your horse hay if you provide it.
- Good care: Get details on what kind of daily care your horse will receive. Your horse’s stall should be cleaned at least once a day, every day. Your horse should be fed at least twice daily. Find out what kinds of pest control management is in place. You want to be sure that flies and rodents are being kept under control. (We discuss pest control in more detail later in this chapter.)
- Health requirements: Horses being boarded at the facility should be required to be up-to-date on inoculations. The particular inoculations may be different from what your vet recommends. If this is the case, discuss the situation with your veterinarian to find out whether she thinks that you should have your horse vaccinated for these illnesses. If not, discuss your vet’s opinion with the stable management.
- Professional behavior: Be prepared to sign injury liability waivers and a boarding agreement, and to fill out other official papers stating the name of your veterinarian and a person to contact in case of an emergency. Management should also provide you with written rules of the stable. Be wary of any boarding stable that has an overly casual attitude about your boarding agreement. They may also have an overly casual attitude about caring for your horse.
Remember
After your horse is moved to a boarding stable, contact your veterinarian and make arrangements that your horse be cared for in case of an emergency when you can’t be reached. Notify the boarding stable of your vet’s emergency number. Provide a backup vet’s phone number just in case your regular vet is unavailable.
Accommodations at home
Having your horse at home can be
a wonderful experience — as well as a lot of work. To keep your horse happy and
healthy, you need to provide the right care and accommodations to your equine
companion.
Before you can bring your horse
home (if you’re a brand-new owner or if you’re moving your horse from a
boarding stable), make sure that your accommodations are ready:
- Your horse should have a pasture or paddock with shelter or a stall. (We describe these enclosures earlier in this chapter.)
- Water should be available at all times, either through an automatic waterer or from a minimum 30-gallon (per horse) large pail or trough that’s refilled daily. (See Chapter The Building Blocks of Good Nutrition for more information.)
- Find a good supplier where you can get your hay. (If your horse is on quality pasture, you may not need to feed hay, or you may need to feed hay only during the times of the year when the pasture is inadequate. See Chapter Growing Your Own Food for details on growing good pasture.) Order as much hay as you can store or afford to buy at once. Be sure to keep your hay in a covered shelter, protected from rain and snow. Chapter Your Hungry Horse: Feeding Fundamentals has all the info you need to keep your horse well fed.
Remember
Develop a daily routine for your horse to ensure his proper care. This routine should include the following:
- Feeding: If your horse is in a pasture, he can eat to his heart’s content, and if your pasture is good quality, you don’t have to worry about feeding him unless you’re giving him supplements to his grass diet. (See Chapter Your Hungry Horse: Feeding Fundamentals for information on how to judge whether your pasture is good quality, and Chapter Special Considerations for Your Horse’s Diet for details on dietary supplements.) If your horse is in a paddock or stall, feed him at least twice a day or more. (The quantity of food can remain the same, but the greater the frequency, the better.)
- Watering: Your horse needs fresh water every day. Horses drink as much as 20 gallons of water a day. If you don’t have an automatic waterer, you need to fill your horse’s water bucket or trough daily.
- Cleaning: Clean your horse’s stall or paddock of manure at least once a day, more often if you can in warm weather. The less manure in the environment, the fewer flies you have.
- Grooming: Take your horse out of his stall, paddock, or pasture at least once a day to give him a daily grooming and hoof cleaning (we explain how to do these tasks later in this chapter).
- Exercise: If your horse is in a paddock or stall, provide him with exercise every day. Even a 20-minute hand-walk is better than no exercise at all. See Chapter Exercising for Health for the basics of exercising your horse.
Grooming Your Horse
Part of your routine should be to
groom your horse. The benefits of grooming, including daily brushing, regular
bathing, and occasional clipping (if you choose), are plentiful:
- Grooming not only keeps your horse looking pretty, but it also provides your horse with much needed attention and strengthens the bond between you; you help your horse feel loved and cared for, which goes a long way toward keeping her healthy.
- Grooming gives you a chance to examine your horse’s body for abnormalities; if you groom daily, you’re more likely to notice changes or problems as they arise.
- Grooming works to remove sweat and dirt from your horse’s coat, helping keep her skin clean and healthy. A well-groomed coat is less prone to chafing and skin irritation.
Brushing your horse
Brushing your horse can be a
therapeutic activity for both you and your equine companion. Use the following
steps to create a routine for your grooming sessions:
1. Bring dirt to the surface
of your horse’s coat by rubbing it with a rubber currycomb, using a circular
motion.
3. Remove the remaining dust
from the coat by using a soft brush, moving along the lay of the coat with
short strokes.
4. Wipe down the horse’s body
with a cloth (a clean rag will do).
5. Clean out the insides of
your horse’s nostrils with the cloth.
Dirt and mucus tends to accumulate there.
6. Gently groom your horse’s
face and head with long strokes of the soft brush.
7. Pick out shavings, burrs,
or other foreign material lodged in the mane, tail, or forelock with your
fingers.
8. Use your fingers to
separate tangles in the mane and tail.
Tip
You may need to add mane and tail detangler, available at tack stores, for this step.
9. Groom the base of the
horse’s tail with a soft brush.
10. Groom the base of the mane
with the soft brush.
11. Brush out the hair of the
mane and tail with a soft brush, gently removing any tangles with your fingers.
Remember
While you’re brushing your horse, keep a lookout for areas that may be swollen or abraded. This is the best time to spot a problem on your horse’s body before it becomes more serious.
Figure 4-1: Brushing the
hair in the direction it grows helps remove accumulated dust and dirt.
Bathing your horse
Horses need baths on a regular
basis, and it’s not surprising when you think about it. After all, they spend
most of their lives in the dirt!
Dust and mud are only two
elements that need to be washed off during a periodic bath. Horses sweat a lot
too, especially when ridden. A buildup of sweat and dirt can cause itchy,
irritated skin.
Remember
The frequency of your horse’s bathing needs depends on your climate, how dirty your horse is, and what you use her for. Don’t worry; it’s easy to tell when a horse is dirty! If you have a show horse, wash her often — and especially the day before a show — to keep her looking good for competition. Keep in mind, however, that bathing a horse too often isn’t good because the shampoo can strip the natural oils from the horse’s skin and coat.
Here are some tips when bathing
your horse:
- Wait for warm weather. Don’t wash your horse if the weather is below 60 degrees, or if it’s late in the day and your horse won’t have time to dry before the temperature drops. If your horse’s skin is wet when the air gets cold, she’ll become chilled.
- Be sure that your horse is okay with being washed. If you don’t know whether your horse has ever been bathed before, have someone hold her and run a garden hose on her legs and shoulder. Gauge her reaction before you start giving her a full-fledged bath. If she’s nervous about it, give her a bath anyway but be patient and tell her that she’s a good girl when she cooperates.
- Choose a good place to bathe your horse. Use a wash rack or area with a concrete floor for safety, and to keep mud from gathering under your wet horse.
- Have access to lukewarm water. Washing your horse with ice-cold water isn’t nice, especially if the weather is on the cooler side. Use a bucket warmer to heat up cold water before you splash it on your horse.
- Wash your horse’s body. Give your horse a good rubbing all over her body with a wet, shampoo-laden sponge or cloth. Start on either side at the neck, and work your way back. After you scrub that entire side of the horse, rinse thoroughly. When all the soap and dirt are gone, the water from the hose should run clear. Repeat on the other side of the horse.
- Use shampoo made especially for horses. Shampoo for horses is designed with the equine coat and skin in mind. Avoid using other types of shampoo because they can dry out your horse’s skin.
- Don’t forget to condition and rinse the horse’s mane and tail. Wash the mane and tail with horse shampoo, and rinse thoroughly before applying conditioner. Your horse’s hair will look wonderful, and keeping these areas clean prevents itching and rubbing.
- Remember to wash the horse’s head. Dirt and sweat gather behind your horse’s ears and along the sides of her face, where her halter and bridle go. Use warm water to clean these areas and keep your horse free from itching and chafing (see Figure 4-2).
Tip
After you wash your horse, she’s probably going to want to roll in the dirt. To keep her from turning your hard work into mud, hand-walk her until she’s dry (see Chapter Exercising for Health for more about hand-walking).
Considering clips
Most horses can stand to have
some clipping done now and then, just to neaten them up. Controversy rages over
whether clipping a horse is a good idea, however. Consider the following issues
when deciding whether you want to clip your horse (keep in mind you’ll be doing
this yourself, or paying your trainer to do it):
Figure 4-2: Gently wash your
horse’s face to remove sweat and dirt that gathers under tack.
- Whisker shaves: Many people like to clip a horse’s whiskers and trim the long hair above the eyes. People who show their horses find this practice to be mandatory. It gives the horse a neat appearance, but some experts say that it robs her of tools that nature gave her to help her sense objects near her head and protect her eyes and muzzle from injury. We prefer that you don’t clip these if you don’t have to.
- Fetlock trims: Trimming the hair on your horse’s fetlocks helps produce a cleaner, neater look to the legs. Some people believe this hair should be left in place, however, because it helps water run off the back of the leg and away from the hoof.
- Body clips: Many horses become wild and wooly in the coat department come winter. Horses who work hard and have these kinds of coats — especially in warm climates — end up hotter than they should be and soaking wet. And they take forever to cool down. The answer is to clip most of the horse’s hair down so that it’s very short, and then keep her blanketed in cold weather to make up for the missing coat. Some people don’t think this is a good idea, however, because it robs the horse of her natural winter protection.
- Ear buzz: Trimming the long hair out of a horse’s ears gives her a neat, trim appearance. It also removes her protection against biting insects, which prey upon the delicate insides of the horse’s ears.
Cleaning your horse’s privates
Part of a thorough bathing is cleaning your
horse’s most delicate of areas. On mares, this area is between the udders. On
geldings, it’s the penis. If these areas become overly dirty, they can become
itchy and start causing your horse to rub and itch.
If you have a mare, the good news is that udders are
fairly easy to clean. Just don a latex glove, and use a mild soap or gel to
remove the waxy substance that has gathered between the teats. If you’ve
never done this cleaning on your mare before, stand safely to the side when
you first attempt it. Most mares don’t object to being cleaned in this area,
but some kick out when they feel you touch them in that delicate spot. If your
mare proves difficult, have your veterinarian clean her when he or she comes
out for the next visit. Some mares need cleaning as often as every couple of
weeks, others every couple of months.
Geldings are much harder to clean than mares, mostly
because they don’t usually cooperate. The good news is that you don’t have to
do this “sheath cleaning” every time you bathe your horse. Every six months
to a year is usually enough.
Cleaning this area on your gelding is important because
of something called “the bean,” which is a pellet of gunk that forms in the
pocket at the end of the penis. This bean comes from a buildup of secretions,
and can cause irritation and swelling. It needs to be removed either by you
or your vet.
If you’ve never cleaned your gelding’s sheath, have
a veterinarian do it the first time. Your horse may not appreciate your
attempts at cleaning this very private area and could kick you. Chances are your
vet will give your horse a shot of sedative before he or she even attempts to
do this cleaning, just to make sure that no one gets hurt.
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Remember
Whether you ultimately decide to clip your horse — and how much you choose to clip — is your decision. If you show your horse, you’re expected to clip her to some degree. (Some breeds are heavily clipped, while others need just a light trim.) Be aware of any potential health issues that may arise for your horse as a result of a clip and work with your vet to minimize these problems.
Taking Care of Your Horse’s Hooves
Caring for your horse’s hooves is
one of your most important tasks as a horse owner. Without good hoof care from
you and a trustworthy farrier, your horse won’t be able to stay sound and
healthy.
Cleaning the hooves yourself
It’s vital that you keep your
horse’s feet clear of manure and packed debris to avoid a fungal infection
called thrush. Follow these steps to properly clean your horse’s hooves:
1. Start at the left side of
the horse, with the front leg.
2. Put a hoof pick in your
dominant hand with the handle in your fist and the point of the pick facing
away from you.
3. Ask your horse for his
hoof; when he gives it to you, hold it so that the bottom of the hoof is facing
upward, and begin to clean the underside with the hoof pick.
4. Clean out the areas around
the triangular frog of the hoof.
Look for rocks, nails, and other items that may be lodged around the frog (see Figure 4-3).
5. Use a hoof brush to wipe
away excess dirt on the sole of the foot.
This step allows you a good view of the foot, enabling you to see stones or other objects that may be lodged inside.
6. Repeat this procedure with
the rest of the hooves, going to the back left leg, the front right leg, and
then the back right leg.
Figure 4-3: Remove packed manure
and other debris from around the sides of the frog of the hoof.
Working with a farrier
In the wild, horses wear their
feet down naturally as they travel many miles each day searching for food.
(Because they spend so much time on their feet, horses have hooves that
constantly grow.) Horses who live with humans don’t have the opportunity to trim
down their own feet with wear and tear, so they must rely on farriers to keep
their hooves from overgrowing. In the following sections, we explain how to
find a farrier and discuss the work of a farrier: trimming and shoeing.
Remember
What happens at the ground level affects every step your horse takes. Pain or imbalance in the foot travels up the leg and eventually to the horse’s back. One bad foot can spoil the entire horse, so don’t skimp on your horse’s hoof care. Allowing a horse’s hooves to become overgrown, whether he’s shod or not, is a dangerous game to play. Lameness can easily result, and over time, may become permanent.
Finding a farrier
Next to you and your vet, the
most important person in your horse’s world is your farrier. To find a good
one, ask your vet, trusted colleagues, and others involved in your particular
sport for recommendations.
The farrier you choose should be
knowledgeable and willing to talk to you in easy-to-understand language. He or
she should also be willing to confer with your vet about your horse’s
particular problems.
Tip
If the farrier you choose wants to see X-rays of your horse, it’s a good sign. If your horse has a problem, the farrier may want to see films of your horse’s feet to better determine the best shoeing procedure. Also, high level performance horses are often X-rayed on a regular basis for just this purpose.
A good farrier is worth his or
her weight in gold. Coauthor Dr. Kate has occasionally recommended a particular
shoe or shoeing procedure for a horse only to have the farrier explain to her
why it’s not the best option in that case. She loves working with real
professionals who have her patient’s best interests at heart.
Trimming and shoeing (if you choose)
The average horse needs to have
his feet trimmed once every four to eight weeks. Horses who wear shoes may need
their shoes replaced in the same amount of time. Have your farrier help you
determine the best trimming and/or shoeing schedule for your horse, and budget
that cost. Put that money into your horse’s savings account if you have one (we
discuss setting up a health savings account for your horse earlier in this
chapter).
You may be wondering whether
shoes are even necessary for your horse. Over the last several years, a
revolution has taken place in the horse world. Horses have started kicking off
their shoes for good, thanks to a movement known as “barefoot.” (Check out a
barefoot hoof in Figure 4-4.)
Figure 4-4: Barefoot trims
are designed to mimic the natural hooves of wild horses.
The barefoot movement is based on
the notion that horses are meant to go without shoes. Debate rages over whether
or not this is true — after all, horses have been wearing iron shoes for
centuries. Proponents of barefoot believe that shoes simply aren’t natural and
shouldn’t be there. Traditionalists believe that shoes protect a horse’s hoof
from the unnatural activities that humans ask them to do. The two sides rage
on, and horse owners are left wondering which camp they should be in.
We believe that barefoot is best,
whenever possible. Neither one of your humble authors has ever met a good
farrier who recommended shoes unless it was absolutely necessary. That said,
it’s important not to just jump onto the no-shoes bandwagon without discussing
the issue with your veterinarian and doing research on your own. (You can find
resources for barefoot and other hoof care information in the appendix.)
Ridding Your Horse of Pests and Parasites
An important aspect of horse care
is keeping small critters from bugging your horse. Insects and parasites make
your horse feel bad, and they can also seriously affect your horse’s health.
Horse-pestering pests come in a
variety of shapes and types, and keeping them in check will keep you on your
toes.
Flies and gnats
Flies and gnats are dirty bugs
that transmit disease and filth on their feet. Some also have painful bites
that can drive horses completely out of their minds. Many horses are allergic
to fly bites and become very itchy during fly season, rubbing their manes and
tails nearly off their bodies as they frantically scratch against everything in
their environment.
Flies come in an annoying array
of species, several of which live to make horses’ lives miserable. Here are the
top culprits when it comes to flies that like to bother horses:
- Face fly: This disgusting insect feeds on secretions from the horse’s eyes and nostrils.
- Stable fly: This flying pest draws blood from the horse’s legs with painful bites.
- Horsefly: This large fly sucks blood from the horse’s upper body, usually the withers.
- Black fly: Considered by most to be a gnat, this tiny bug feeds on blood from the inside of the horse’s ears.
- Botfly: This fly lays its eggs on the horse’s front legs, belly, or hind legs and waits for the horse to accidentally ingest them when grooming himself. When that happens, the horse swallows the eggs, the eggs hatch inside the digestive tract, and new botflies pass out through the manure. These parasites are harmful to your horse and can cause stomach ulcers, as well as other digestive issues.
- Housefly: This common pest lays its eggs directly in the horse’s manure. The eggs hatch, and the larvae feed and turn into annoying adult flies.
Your job as a horse owner is to keep these bugs at bay the best you can. Here are options for keeping your horse and stable fly-free:
- Clean manure often. Many flies thrive in dirty environments, and some lay their eggs in horse manure. By cleaning manure frequently during fly season, you can do a lot to control the fly population in your horse’s environment.
- Hang fly traps. Place traps or strips near your horse’s living quarters. Flies are attracted to these objects and become trapped in or on them.
- Use biological controls. You can find companies that specialize in biological fly control. These businesses provide regular shipments of a predatory wasp in the Chalcididae family. This wasp is so tiny that you won’t even know it’s there. Yet these insects do wonders to keep fly populations down by feeding on the larvae of flies in the environment.
- Apply fly sprays and wipes. Applying these products to your horse daily during fly season helps keep your horse relatively pest free. Fly control wipes and sprays are available in a variety of formulas, and include everything from all-natural sprays to oil-based chemical wipes.
- Install stall fans. Some horse owners install large fans near the ceilings of their horse’s stall to keep flies (and mosquitoes) from being able to land on the horse.
- Utilize fly coverups. You can place fly masks, ear covers, fly sheets, and leg wraps on horses during fly season to minimize bites.
Be aware that some horses won’t
tolerate these coverups and will tear them off themselves or other horses not
long after you put them on.
Remember
You’ll never completely rid your horse’s environment of flies and gnats, but by waging war on these pests, you can keep them to a manageable level.
Mosquitoes
No one likes mosquitoes, least of
all horse owners. Not only do these insects leave itchy bites behind, but
they’re also capable of spreading a number of potentially fatal diseases to
horses, including West Nile virus and encephalitis (see Chapter Fighting
Infectious Diseases for more
about these diseases).
The best ways to protect your
horse from mosquitoes include the following:
- Use repellant. Mosquito repellant for horses is readily available at tack and feed stores, and it discourages mosquitoes from biting.
- Cover your horse. Sheets designed to keep mosquitoes from biting are available in different designs and colors.
- Vaccinate your horse. Stay current on vaccines for mosquito-borne diseases to make sure that your horse stays healthy. We discuss vaccinations in detail earlier in this chapter.
- Debug your property. Eliminate standing water anywhere on your property where mosquitoes might breed. Put mosquitofish in ponds or large water troughs. Keep high weeds cut down to discourage mosquitoes from gathering.
- Hang traps. Mosquito traps are available at hardware and garden stores. Hang them near your horse’s stall.
- Install fans. Stall fans keep mosquitoes from landing on your horse and biting.
By being vigilant against
mosquitoes, you’ll keep your horse healthy. As a bonus, you may have fewer
itchy bites, too!
Ticks
If you’re a dog owner, you’re
probably familiar with ticks, those nasty arachnids that latch onto an animal’s
(or a human’s) skin and suck the blood for nourishment. Ticks go after horses,
too, and can easily spread disease. Tick-borne illnesses that can make your
horse very sick include Lyme disease and encephalitis. (See Chapter Fighting
Infectious Diseases for
details on these diseases.) That’s why keeping ticks at bay — and off your
horse — is important.
A nasty creature called the ear
tick likes to attach to the horse’s ears. These pests can cause head and/or ear
shyness, as well as bleeding from the ear. Horses with ear ticks may also hold
their ears down, or off to the side. Sometimes, they rub their ears on anything
they can find.
It’s important to keep ticks off
your horse to prevent disease. A large infestation of ticks can also cause
anemia, so be vigilant about these pests. To deal with ticks, follow these
guidelines:
- Apply tick repellant. Before riding your horse through wilderness areas, or if he lives in an area that has tall plants, apply tick repellant to keep these bugs from latching onto him.
- Groom carefully. When you groom your horse, keep an eye out for ticks that may have grabbed onto your horse.
Tip
Check the ears carefully because it’s a favorite spot for ticks.
- Remove body ticks. Using tweezers, grasp the tick at the base of the head and use slow, steady upward pressure to pull the creature from your horse’s body.
Remember
Be careful not to squeeze the tick’s body with the tweezers, because it will re-inject possibly contaminated blood back into the horse. If you fail to get the tick’s entire head out of the skin, call a veterinarian.
- Clear out ear ticks. If you think that your horse has ear ticks, and the ear isn’t especially sore, you can take a tissue-wrapped finger and very gently probe the ear canal in a sweeping motion. If you’re lucky, you’ll retrieve the nasty little culprits. Be careful not to rigorously dig into your horse’s ears with your fingers because you’ll drive the ticks deeper into the canal. (If this tactic doesn’t immediately alleviate the problem, call your vet.)
Worms
Internal parasites in the form of
worms are a huge scourge to horses if they aren’t properly controlled. A
variety of worms prey on horses, and can do serious and permanent damage to
their internal organs if left unchecked.
A worm-infested horse is a sorry
sight to see. A dull, ratty looking coat and an underweight appearance are sure
signs of worm infestation. Although 150 species of internal parasites can cause
harm to horses, the most common ones include:
- Bots: An egg-laying fly (see the earlier section “Flies” in this chapter), the bot begins as larvae that attaches itself to a horse’s stomach after being swallowed. The result can be colic.
- Pinworms: These worms reside in the horse’s rectum and cause irritation and discharge. They can prompt a horse to rub the dock of her tail obsessively.
- Roundworms: Foot-long roundworms are truly disgusting to see. They live in the digestive tracts and cause horses to become colicky and lose condition.
- Stongyles: This intestinal parasite uses the horse’s circulatory system to spread its larvae through the bloodstream. This parasite can cause serious and permanent damage to the horse’s organs. Recurrent colic can also be a result of a lack of good blood supply to the intestines. Also, certain stages of strongyles can encyst in the horse’s intestinal tract and remain there for long periods of time. This may cause unthriftiness, diarrhea, and colic.
Keeping worms from infecting your
horse to some degree is nearly impossible, but you can control how many worms
your horse has with regular deworming. Several chemical agents are available
over the counter, allowing horse owners to regularly deworm their horses. Or,
your vet can deworm your horse for you.
Remember
Because worms can develop a resistance to some dewormers, it’s important to discuss a deworming program with your veterinarian. Your vet can tell you how to best rotate different types of deworming drugs to avoid resistance, and how often to deworm your horse, depending on where you live and your horse’s environment.
Smile Pretty! Caring for Your Horse’s Teeth
Your horse needs healthy teeth to
chew up all that roughage you’re feeding him — and that roughage is so
important for his digestive health. In order to keep your horse’s teeth
healthy, you need help from your veterinarian.
Wild horses wear their teeth down
naturally as they graze on a variety of different plants in their environment.
Domestic horses need help keeping their teeth in good shape, though, because
their diet is different from that of wild horses.
Uneven wear on a horse’s teeth results in sharp points that can cut into the horse’s cheeks. These sharp points can hurt the horse when he chews and when he wears a bit in his mouth. For this reason, horses need to have their teeth filed down, or floated, on a regular basis.
Your equine veterinarian performs
this task for you. In most cases, your vet gives your horse a sedative (to
ensure cooperation) and uses a handheld or power-driven file to grind the
points off your horse’s teeth.
Most horses need to have this
procedure done about once a year, but your horse may need it more often
depending on his age and particular circumstances. Coauthor Dr. Kate recommends
a dental exam every six to nine month in horses who are 2 to 5 years old,
because horses’ teeth change the most during this time and around the time a
bit is first placed in the mouth.
Your veterinarian should check
your horse’s teeth when he or she comes to inoculate your horse, and can advise
you as to your horse’s dental needs.
by Audrey Pavia with Kate Gentry-Running,DVM,CVA
by Audrey Pavia with Kate Gentry-Running,DVM,CVA
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