In This Chapter
- Understanding what it takes to be a Canine Good Citizen
- Identifying the tests
- Cramming for the tests
- Helping you and your dog pass the test
The Canine Good Citizen test uses
a series of exercises that checks the dog’s ability to behave in an acceptable
manner in public. Its purpose is to demonstrate that the dog, as a companion
for all people, can be a respected community member and can be trained and
conditioned to always behave in the home, in public places, and in the presence
of other dogs in a manner that reflects credit on the dog.
The test is unique in that it is
the only American Kennel Club–sponsored activity that includes mixed-breed
dogs. The concept of a Canine Good Citizen is based on the premise that all
dogs should be trained. It’s also an outreach program — to motivate dog owners
and encourage them to go further in training their dogs.
This chapter shows you what you
and your dog can do to prepare for the Canine Good Citizen test. The Canine
Good Citizen is a window of opportunity to a variety of dog sports. When you
and your dog earn a Canine Good Citizen Certificate, you have accomplished more
than millions of other dog owners. Are you ready for the challenge?
Becoming a Canine Good Citizen
Ideally, every dog should be
trained to become a Canine Good Citizen and the more that are, the better the
chances of counteracting the growing antidog sentiment in many communities.
Irresponsible dog ownership has been the cause for this sentiment and only
responsible pet ownership can reverse it. To become a Canine Good Citizen your
dog must demonstrate, by means of a short test, that he meets these
requirements.
Exercise requirements of the Canine Good Citizen test
To become a Canine Good Citizen,
a dog must pass a test that demonstrates his ability to behave in an acceptable
manner in public. The test consists of the following ten exercises, all of
which are scored on a pass/fail system:
- Accepting a friendly stranger
- Sitting politely for petting
- Appearance and grooming
- Walking on a loose leash
- Walking through a crowd
- Sitting, downing, and staying in place
- Coming when called
- Reaction to another dog
- Reaction to distractions
- Supervised separation
Remember
These are practical exercises that determine the amount of control you have over your dog. During the test, you can repeat commands several times, encourage, and praise your dog. Repeating commands too often, however, demonstrates a lack of control and causes you to fail. You’re also not permitted to give food to your dog during the test. All tests are done on leash and dogs need to wear a well-fitting buckle or slip collar made of leather, fabric, or chain. Other collars, head halters, or harnesses aren’t permitted. The leash can be either fabric or leather.
We discuss each test briefly in
the following sections, including what to expect during the test.
Test 1: Accepting a friendly stranger
This test demonstrates that the
dog allows a friendly stranger to approach and speak to the handler in a
natural, everyday situation.
The evaluator approaches the dog
and handler and greets the handler in a friendly manner, ignoring the dog. The
evaluator and handler shake hands and exchange pleasantries. The dog must show
no sign of resentment, aggression, or shyness. The dog may not break position,
jump on the evaluator, or try to go to the evaluator. If the handler has to
hold the dog to control it, the dog fails the exercise.
Test 2: Sitting politely for petting
This test demonstrates that the
dog allows a friendly stranger to touch him while he is out with the
owner/handler (see Figure 12-1). With the dog sitting at the handler’s side
(either side is permissible) throughout the exercise, the evaluator pets the
dog on the head and body only.
Figure 12-1: Sitting politely
for petting.
The handler may talk to the dog
throughout the exercise.
After petting, the evaluator then
circles the dog and handler, completing the test. The dog mustn’t show shyness
or resentment. The dog may stand while being petted, but must not struggle or
pull away to avoid the petting, and shouldn’t lunge at or jump on the
evaluator.
Test 3: Appearance and grooming
This test demonstrates that the
dog welcomes being groomed and examined and permits a stranger, such as a vet,
groomer, or friend of the owner, to do so. It also demonstrates the owner’s
care, concern, and responsibility.
Remember
For the appearance and grooming test, make sure Buddy looks his best. If he needs a bath before the test, give him one.
The evaluator examines the dog to
determine if he is clean and groomed. The dog must appear to be in healthy
condition — proper weight, clean, healthy, and alert. Bring the comb or brush
you commonly use on the dog. The evaluator easily combs or brushes the dog and,
in a natural manner, lightly examines the ears and gently picks up each front
foot.
The dog doesn’t need to hold a
specific position during the examination, and the handler may talk to the dog,
praise, and give encouragement throughout. A dog that requires restraining
during this examination fails the test.
Test 4: Out for a walk — walking on a loose leash
The fourth test demonstrates that
the handler is in control. The dog may be on either side of the handler,
whichever the handler prefers. The dog’s position should leave no doubt that
the dog is attentive to the handler and is responding to the handler’s movements
and changes of direction. The dog need not be perfectly aligned with the
handler and need not sit when the handler stops.
Remember
An occasional tight leash is permissible, but constant straining or pulling on the leash is unacceptable. Similarly, excessive sniffing of the floor or ground, indicating that the dog isn’t attentive to the handler, is also unacceptable.
During this test, you must make a
left turn, a right turn, and an about-turn, with at least one stop in between
and another at the end. The handler may talk to the dog along the way to praise
or command him in a normal tone of voice. The handler may also sit the dog at
the halt, if desired.
Test 5: Walking through a crowd
This test demonstrates that the
dog can move about politely in pedestrian traffic and is under control in
public places. The test is a great incentive to train Buddy around
distractions.
The dog and handler walk around
and closely pass several people (at least three). The dog may show some
interest in the strangers but must continue to walk with the handler, without
evidence of overexuberance, shyness, or resentment. The handler may talk to the
dog and encourage or praise the dog throughout the test. The dog shouldn’t
strain at the leash, jump on people in the crowd, or try to hide behind his
handler.
Remember
Children may act as members of the crowd in this test, as well as in the reaction to distractions test, that we discuss later in this chapter. Another leashed, well-behaved dog may also be in the crowd.
Test 6: “Sit” and “Down” on command — staying in place
This test demonstrates that the
dog responds to the handler’s commands to “Sit” and “Down,” and remains in the
place commanded by the handler.
Prior to this test, the dog’s
leash is replaced with a 20-foot line. The handler may take a reasonable amount
of time and use more than one command to make the dog sit and then down. The
evaluator must determine if the dog has responded to the handler’s commands.
The handler may not force the dog into either position but may touch the dog to
offer gentle guidance.
When instructed by the evaluator,
the handler tells the dog to “Stay” and, with the 20-foot line in hand, walks
forward the length of the line, turns, and returns to the dog at a natural pace
(the 20-foot line isn’t removed or dropped). The dog must remain in the place
in which he was left (the dog may change position such as stand up), until the
evaluator instructs the handler to release the dog. The dog may be released
from the front or the side.
Test 7: Coming when called
This test demonstrates that the dog
comes when the handler calls him. The dog remains on the 20-foot line that was
used in the sixth test. The handler walks ten feet from the dog, turns to face
the dog, and calls the dog. The handler may use body language and encouragement
when calling the dog and may tell the dog to “Stay” or “Wait” or just walk
away. The dog may be left in the Sit, Down, or Standing position. If the dog
attempts to follow the handler, the evaluator may distract the dog (for
example, by petting) until the handler is 10 feet away.
The point of the test is to
determine whether the dog comes when called and whether he stays, and the
exercise is completed when the dog comes to the handler and the handler
attaches the dog’s own leash.
Test 8: Reaction to another dog
This test demonstrates that the
dog can behave politely around other dogs.
Two handlers and their dogs
approach each other from a distance of about ten yards, stop, shake hands and
exchange pleasantries, and continue on for about five yards.
The dogs should show no more than
casual interest in each other. Neither dog should go to the other dog or its
handler. See Figure 12-2.
Figure 12-2: Reaction to another
dog.
Test 9: Reaction to distractions
This test demonstrates that the
dog is confident at all times when faced with common distracting situations.
The evaluator selects only two from the following list. (Note: Because
some dogs are sensitive to sound and others to visual distractions, most tests
involve one sound and one visual distraction.)
- A person using crutches, a wheelchair, or a walker.
- A sudden closing or opening of a door.
- Dropping a large book, pan, folded chair, or the like, no closer than five feet behind the dog.
- A jogger running in front of the dog.
- A person pushing a shopping cart or pulling a crate dolly passing five to ten feet away.
- A person on a bicycle passing at least ten feet away.
- For you cat lovers, you’re in luck. Cats aren’t used as a distraction.
The handler may talk to the dog
and praise him during this test. In a similar situation in real life, you
probably would talk in an encouraging way to your dog.
The dog may express a natural
interest and curiosity and may appear slightly startled but shouldn’t panic,
try to run away, or show aggressiveness. An isolated bark (one) is acceptable,
but continued barking causes the dog to fail. The handler may talk to the dog
and encourage or praise her throughout the exercise.
Test 10: Supervised separation
This test demonstrates that the
dog can be left with another person and maintain its training and good manners
while the owner goes out of sight. Evaluators say something like, “Would you
like me to watch your dog?”
The handler fastens the dog to a
six-foot line, such as the dog’s leash, gives the end of the leash to an
evaluator, and goes to a place out of sight of the dog for three minutes. The
dog shouldn’t continually bark, whine, howl, pace unnecessarily, or show
anything other than mild agitation or nervousness. This test isn’t a Stay
exercise; dogs may stand, sit, lie down, and change positions during this test.
Dogs are tested individually, not
as a group, and more than one dog can be tested at a time.
Getting ready to take the exam
If you have done the basic
training, you’re already halfway to being ready for the Canine Good Citizen.
The exercises you need to work on are those that add distractions. They are the
following:
- Accepting a friendly stranger
- Sitting politely for petting
- Appearance and grooming
- Reaction to another dog
- Reaction to distractions
- Supervised separation
Because Buddy’s ability to
Sit-Stay is so critical to success on many of the tests, make sure that he has
this exercise down pat.
Training for accepting a friendly stranger and sitting politely for petting
We suggest that you start by
teaching your dog the Sit for Examination and build from there. You need a
helper for these exercises.
If you have scored your dog for
fight or flight (see Chapter Understanding
Your Dog’s Mind), you remember that this score determines his
response to the helper. For example, if the helper is a stranger and your dog
is high in fight, he may show signs of protectiveness. On the other hand, if he
is low in fight and high in flight behaviors, Buddy may try to hide behind you
or show signs of shyness when the helper approaches. Because the Sit for
Examination is the cornerstone for all the distraction tests, you need to
condition your dog to perform this exercise correctly before you continue.
With Buddy in Heel position,
begin as you do for the Sit-Stay. Say and signal “Stay” and have your helper
approach your dog from six feet at a 45-degree angle to your left. Have the
helper approach in a friendly and nonthreatening manner, without hovering over
the dog. Have the helper show your dog the palm of a hand and continue
to walk by. If Buddy stays, praise and release. If your dog wants to get up,
check straight up with your left hand with “Stay” and immediately try again.
Tip
Buddy’s response determines how close the helper gets in the beginning. If he becomes apprehensive about the helper’s approach and tries to move, we suggest that he or she walk past the dog at a distance of two feet without making eye contact or looking at the dog, which Buddy may perceive as threatening. As the dog gets used to that maneuver, have the helper offer a treat to the dog, placed on the open palm, as he or she walks by, still without making eye contact with the dog. It doesn’t matter whether the dog takes the treat or not — it’s the gesture that counts. When your dog accepts the helper walking past and offering a treat, stop for this session.
At your next session, have the
helper first offer a treat and then pet the dog on the head, still without
making eye contact, as he or she continues past the dog. Next, the helper can
attempt to look at the dog as he or she touches the dog and goes past. For this
particular test, the eye contact in connection with the examination is the hard
part of the exercise, and it may require several sessions before the dog is
steady.
The aim of this exercise is for
the dog to allow the approach of a stranger who also then pets the dog. For the
majority of dogs, this exercise isn’t particularly difficult, but it does
require a little practice.
Training for appearance and grooming
Appearance and grooming is a
similar test that you can introduce as soon as your dog accepts petting by a
stranger. Have your helper lightly comb or brush Buddy with you at his side or
directly in front. The helper examines the ears and picks up each front foot.
If your dog finds this difficult, have the helper give the dog a treat as he or
she touches a foot. Condition the dog with praise and treats to accept having
the feet handled.
Remember
The appearance and grooming test is one of the most frequently failed tests, and mainly because the dog won’t permit the evaluator to handle his feet. If you make a point of handling your dog’s feet when he is a puppy (and have your friends do it too), he won’t be upset by this action as an adult.
Training for reaction to another dog
Your dog may stand or sit for
this test. He is less likely, however, to try to initiate contact with the
other dog from a Sit. Practice this exercise with someone else who also has a
well-trained dog. With your dogs at Heel position, approach each other from a
distance of about 20 feet and stop close enough to each other so you can just
shake hands. As you stop, tell Buddy to “Sit” and “Stay.”
Should he want to say hello to
the other dog, reinforce the “Stay” command. Be sure you instruct your training
partner not to let his or her dog come to say hello to Buddy.
Training for reaction to distractions
Take another look at the list of
distractions in the section, “Reaction to distractions,” earlier in this
chapter. If you think that your dog may be unduly startled by any one of them,
you need to practice and condition him to ignore that distraction.
Tip
Because your dog’s Personality Profile (see Chapter Understanding Your Dog’s Mind) determines how he reacts to a particular distraction, expose him to different distractions to see how he deals with them. Some dogs take it all in stride and others require several exposures to become accustomed to the distraction. The best foundation is a solid Sit-Stay.
Training for supervised separation
Although this test doesn’t
directly deal with distractions, it does evaluate a dog’s response to the
unforeseen, and so resembles the other tests. It shows that the dog can be left
with someone else, which demonstrates training and good manners. You hand your
leash to an evaluator who watches your dog, and in some cases, other dogs may
be in the vicinity that are also doing this test or just being walked. The dog
shouldn’t bark, whine, howl, or pace unnecessarily, or register anything other
than mild agitation or nervousness.
You can leave your dog in either
the Sit or the Down position; he doesn’t need to hold that position until you
return, only that he doesn’t vocalize or pace unnecessarily. Still, by having
Buddy focus on staying in place, you reduce the likelihood that he will bark or
howl, or become overly agitated. You can develop this skill as a simple
Down-Stay exercise, which is what we recommend.
Passing the Test
Organizations offering the Canine
Good Citizen test have considerable leeway in making up the order in which to
give the tests. The most common order is the one in which we list them in
“Exercise requirements of the Canine Good Citizen test” earlier in this
chapter. The supervised separation test may take place in the presence of other
dogs that are also doing this test.
Usually three evaluators conduct
the test. The first evaluator conducts tests one through three, the second one
tests four through nine, and the third one test ten. The test is scored on a
pass/fail basis and in order to qualify for a Canine Good Citizen certificate,
the dog must pass each of the ten tests.
Remember
An automatic failure results when a dog eliminates (poops or pees) during testing, except during test ten, provided it’s held outdoors. Any dog that growls, snaps, bites, attacks, or attempts to attack a person or another dog isn’t a good citizen and must be dismissed from the test.
Do’s and Don’ts of Taking the Test
The following few hints can help
you prepare for and participate in the Canine Good Citizen test.
Remember
Your attitude and state of mind are the most important influence on the test’s outcome. If you’re excessively nervous, your dog will become nervous, too. Handlers under stress sometimes behave in ways they would never dream of doing any other time. If you do act differently, your dog will notice and be confused to the point where she might fail. Maintain a positive outlook and rely on your training.
Do:
- Practice the entire test with a helper and friends before you actually enter a test. Doing so is more for your benefit than Buddy’s. As you become familiar with the test, you’ll lose some of your nervousness. It also can identify Buddy’s weak areas and give you additional time to work on them.
- Give your dog a bath and thoroughly groom him before the test.
- Use the correct equipment for the test — a well-fitting buckle or slip collar of leather, fabric, or chain, and a leather or fabric leash (see Chapter Equipping for Training Success for more on leashes).
- Exercise Buddy before you take the test. If your dog eliminates at any time during testing, he fails.
- Warm up your dog before taking the test so that both of you are as relaxed as possible under the circumstances.
- Use a second command for any exercise, if necessary.
- Talk to your dog during an exercise to keep attention on you, if necessary.
- Ask the evaluator for an explanation if you don’t understand a procedure or an instruction.
Remember
- Maintain a loose leash throughout the entire test, even between exercises, to the extent possible. Although an occasional tightening of the leash generally isn’t considered a failure, it does become a judgment call for the evaluator in assessing your control over your dog. Don’t put yourself or the evaluator in that position.
- Understand that your attitude and state of mind are the most important influences on the test’s outcome. If you’re excessively nervous, your dog will become nervous, too. Maintain a positive outlook and rely on your training.
- Conduct yourself in a sportsmanlike manner at all times.
- Keep in mind the purpose of the Canine Good Citizen and become an ambassador of goodwill and good manners for all dogs.
Of course, if you take the time
to participate in the Canine Good Citizen test, you obviously want Buddy to
pass. Even if he doesn’t, you can still feel good about yourself and Buddy.
You’re making an effort to train your dog to be a model member of the
community. In that small way, you’re doing a service to all dogs and their
owners.
Don’t:
- Lose your temper or attitude if your dog fails an exercise. If you berate your dog, you sour him on the entire experience. You may feel a certain amount of disappointment and frustration, but you need to control those feelings. The more you work with your dog, the more attuned he is to your feelings. He’ll associate them with the circumstances and not the failure of an exercise.
- Change your attitude toward your dog after he has failed an exercise. Your remedy isn’t to make the dog feel anxious, but to review your training, work on the difficult exercise, and try again. If you undermine your dog’s confidence, training will take longer and become a less rewarding experience than if you realize that your job is to support and encourage your dog at every step of the way.by Jack and Wendy Volhard
0 comments:
Post a Comment