Training is a term we have been conditioned to accept as something we do through tasks and by using tools. This is true, but sometimes the tools we use, we cannot see, taste, hear, smell, or physically touch.
—Brandon Carpenter, horse trainer
Often when I’m doing a public appearance or leading one of my seminars, I’m approached by people who want to know what I think is absolutely the number one, best, most consistently reliable tool for training or rehabilitating a dog. They are often surprised when I tell them that the best tool they could ever have for controlling their dogs is something they already own. They carry that tool with them every day, everywhere they go. That tool is their energy. In fact, that is the one and only tool that I will always come out and advocate every time.
You—meaning your energy, your beingness—happen to be the most powerful tool that has ever been created. You, as a human being, have ability that is unique in all of the animal kingdom. Only a human—no other animal—is able to put several different species together in one place—species that might be killing each other in nature—and influence them to get along. Have you ever seen a movie—for example, Ace Ventura: Pet Detective or Doctor Dolittle—where there is a chicken, pig, horse, cat, dog, snake, and cow all together in one room? Of course, it was a human who came up with the intention to film that scene, who developed the strategy to make it happen, and whose energy created the possibility to make it all happen. All those animals on that movie set had human handlers—trainers like my friend Clint Rowe—who are able to control the animal that they are in charge of without leashes or collars or cages—at the very least, for the period of time in which the scene is being filmed. If any of those human handlers in charge of the animals became nervous or frightened, or somehow woke up one morning thinking, “I’ll never be able to control that pig today!”, the scene wouldn’t happen.
Excluding your energy, I define a tool as any item we use to establish a physical link to our dogs. Like our energy, tools are intended to communicate our intentions and expectations to our dogs. Techniques are how we apply our chosen tools and other methods to become more effective pack leaders.
My Grandfather’s Rope
I always say that companies like Petco or PetSmart would never make as much money in rural Mexico as they do here in America. That’s because, instead of a fancy leash, we just use the same old rope, over and over again, for generations and generations: “Hey, go and get me Grandpa’s rope out of the barn.” That’s why I so often use a simple, thirty-five-cent leash—to show that it’s not the leash that’s controlling the dog; it’s the energy behind the leash. In Cesar’s Way, I talk about the fact that the homeless in Los Angeles are among the best pack leaders for dogs that I’ve seen since coming to this country. They lead these dogs with their energy—and the dogs follow, off leash. These homeless pack leaders have a simple mission: to move forward and do whatever they need to do to survive. Their energy is reflected in their mission, which in turn is reflected in the dog’s mission. In many primitive cultures, dogs still roam free in villages, scavenging for scraps. They follow along with humans without a leash when it comes time to go hunting or tracking. These human pack leaders are instinctively aware that the best tool they have to communicate with another species is their energy.
Before human civilization began encroaching on animals’ territories, forcing them to become unnaturally aggressive in order to survive, most animals—even some of the most fearsome beasts on earth—were naturally afraid of humans. Wolves, leopards, lions, and elephants all instinctively understood that humans had something they didn’t—a combination of powerful instinctive, psychological, and intellectual energy—that overrode the fact that we Homo sapiens are slower, weaker, and have no teeth or claws with which we can truly fight back. Today, we modern humans just go down to the store and buy special leashes and collars that we think give us more power over animals. In truth, most of us have lost the instinctual energy that gave us our natural advantage in the first place. We have forgotten what our ancestors already knew about animals—that the only surefire way to outwit them was by using our minds.
Throughout years of civilization, humans have invented thousands of tools for controlling or influencing various members of the animal kingdom. Some of those tools are now thought of as inhumane; others are still in use today. I’m sure there will be more and more tools developed in the future. But there will never be a better tool than what you already have within you. There is no work of art that exists in the universe that is better than you in that regard. Remember, you are part of Mother Nature and you have the ability to connect with Mother Nature at any time. Who you are in the animal world is your energy—and that energy has no limits. They key is learning how to break the code and tap into the animal in you. Your instinctual energy is the number-one most important tool you can have when it comes to controlling or influencing the behavior of your dog.
Tools Are for Empowerment
A tool doesn’t become energy until you touch it. A tree branch is just a tree branch until a chimpanzee breaks it off and uses it to dig for bugs. It has no special function until the chimpanzee uses the branch with intention. A cheese knife can be lying on the cutting board next to a row of cheddar and crackers, but if a man takes it and stabs another man with it out of anger, it becomes a weapon—again, simply because of intention. Is using a cheese knife to cut cheese inhumane? Of course not! Is using a cheese knife to stab someone inhumane? Yes! What I am getting at here is that whatever tool you choose to use with your dog was not invented to hurt the dog. The tool was made to empower the handler, given the possibility that the handler cannot control the animal with energy alone. If a handler comes to certain tools with anxious energy, frustrated energy, anger, or a feeling of helplessness, then I would argue that the handler’s negative energy is far more inhumane toward the dog than most tools out there. If a tool isn’t used correctly and with calm-assertive energy, not only will it not work, but it can indeed become something that harms the dog.
There are many cases in which a dog owner legitimately cannot control the animal with energy or just a simple rope—and no one should be ashamed of that. After all, there are leash laws throughout America. Even the lawmakers pretty much assume that a good percentage of people out there may not be able to control a dog in an emergency. Leashes, collars, and other tools act as our backup. In some cases, a dog is just way too physically strong for a human. My friend and client Kathleen is a good example of such a case. Kathleen adopted Nicky, a ninety-two-pound Rottweiler that had been abused by his previous owner, and there is no doubt that without Kathleen stepping up to rescue him, Nicky surely would have been put to sleep. Kathleen is a delicate, tiny woman who also has osteoporosis. And since Nicky is a powerful, high-energy dog, he needs to walk regularly. Kathleen is not strong enough on her own to stop Nicky if he gets excited and rushes toward another dog while on walks. Kathleen is exactly the kind of person who needs the correct tool to empower herself, and to keep Nicky and other dogs safe.
I applied a three-part strategy to help empower Kathleen to be a wonderful, responsible owner for Nicky. First, I took Nicky to the Dog Psychology Center for two weeks, to better socialize him with members of his own kind. Because his previous abusive owner had kept him chained to a post for literally years, he had a staggering amount of pent-up energy and frustration, which he was releasing on other dogs. Nicky turned out to be a friendly, playful guy once he experienced “the power of the pack,” vigorous daily exercise, and a balanced, predictable routine. Next, I worked with Kathleen on channeling her own calm-assertive energy. Kathleen is a strong, determined woman, but her medical condition had left her feeling a little unsure of herself. She was also very much ruled by her sorrow for what had happened to Nicky in the past. I helped her to draw on the resilient, survivor part of herself when dealing with Nicky, and helped her start living in the moment with him. Finally, I taught her the correct use of the tool she had chosen for Nicky—the prong collar. The collar helped Kathleen give Nicky stronger, quicker corrections than she would ever be able to do on her own, especially given her osteoporosis. In turn, knowing she had the collar to fall back on further empowered Kathleen to feel stronger and more confident when walking Nicky. Ultimately, it was Kathleen’s increased confidence that turned Nicky into a more obedient dog—not the collar at all! Once again, it’s not the tool, but the energy behind the tool, that matters. Would it have been more “humane” for Kathleen to give up on Nicky, possibly condemning him to death? I believe she made the right choice, finding a tool that she could use without harming her dog, learning to use it correctly, empowering herself and making her a far more effective pack leader to her dog. But it wasn’t the collar itself that turned Nicky around—the collar was simply one step on her journey to Kathleen’s acceptance of her own strength and potential.
Dillinger’s Gun and Grandmother’s Newspaper
People often forget how much the power of intention, psychology, and energy contribute to the effectiveness of a tool. It became legendary when infamous Depression-era outlaw John Dillinger broke out of the “escape-proof” jail in Crown Point, Indiana, using a wooden gun painted with shoe polish. If this colorful story is true, you can bet that it was Dillinger’s determination, charisma, and fearsome reputation that really got him out of jail—and probably prevented his jailers from examining the “weapon” in his hand too closely. If your eighty-year-old grandmother had a dog, it’s likely she kept a rolled-up newspaper nearby. That’s the old-fashioned way of disciplining a dog (many of my elderly clients still use it) and I certainly don’t advocate it, for very practical reasons I’ll share later in the chapter. But is it wrong? If it’s used abusively, of course it’s wrong. Still, clients who’ve had a parent or grandparent use this method tell me that Grandma usually didn’t even touch her dog with the newspaper. She’d just move toward the newspaper. From that point on, the dog realizes that Grandma is serious—even when she never even touched the paper itself. Because the simple act of moving toward the newspaper empowers Grandma in her own mind, the dog changes. The dog feels the switch of Grandma’s energy, and understands that she now seems more powerful. Once again, it’s the energy, not the newspaper, that caused the shift. If you think any tool alone is going to do the job for you, forget about it. It’s not going to happen. The calm-assertive energy you put into the tool is much more important than the tool itself.
I can make any tool work for me, but that doesn’t mean it will be the right tool for the person I’m trying to help. When I go to the homes of my clients, I always ask them, “What is the tool that makes you the most comfortable?” I prefer to work with the tool they are already familiar with, but of course, to train them in the correct method of using that tool—since incorrect use of any tool can be harmful for a dog. Sometimes I might feel that the clients would do better with a different tool because, perhaps, they may not be at the correct level to master the tool they are currently using. In that case, I will suggest what I believe is a better method for them to obtain control and, more importantly, the self-confidence they need in order to be effective. Again, it’s the confidence—the calm-assertive energy—that is the key. The ideal goal—and this is a goal that truly is possible for many people—is to recover the primal connection between human and dog in order to master the off-leash experience. The dream is to be able to use your energy to connect and communicate with your dog in such a way that your need for any tool is minimal.
Take, for instance, my relationship with my pit bull Daddy. Although I use a simple thirty-five-cent leash with Daddy in situations where it’s either necessary by law or is for his own protection, basically the only tool I need to influence Daddy is my mind, my energy, and my relationship with him—which is based 100 percent on trust and respect. When Daddy and I are walking together, I feel there is no boundary between him and me. He reads my energy and I read his energy and we move forward together as one. If I have an intention, I can almost always communicate it to him with a gesture or a thought. To me, this is the ideal relationship between human and dog—and a goal we all can strive for.
While I’ve focused on one’s energy to control a dog’s behavior thus far in this chapter, I do want to clarify that I am in favor of leash laws. Having grown up in a country without leash laws, I believe America does exactly the right thing in requiring owners to keep their dogs on leashes while out in public. Dogs are animals, and animals are controlled by instinct, not by reason. Even the most diligent owner could experience her dog being attracted to a child who’s eating a piece of chicken or a baby in a stroller with a bottle of milk or another dog across the street. The dog could bolt away and hurt a child or another dog, or could dart into the street and get hit by a car. Sadly, experience has proven that most owners have little control over their dogs in such a situation. Another advantage to a leash law is to help control the dog population. One of dogs’ strongest natural urges is to mate, and without leashes, an unspayed female in heat can be impregnated in the blink of an eye. To sum it up, a leash law is about facing reality and preventing accidents, and I am 100 percent supportive of this important safety measure.
Now that you understand my overall philosophy about tools—it’s not the tool itself, it’s the energy behind it—let’s review some of the most common tools people use for correcting their dogs, examine their pros and cons, and discuss situations when they may or may not be appropriate.
The Rope or Simple Leash
From my grandfather’s rope in Mexico to the thirty-five-cent nylon leashes you can pick up at any pet store, this tool can be anything you can simply loop over an animal’s neck to make sure that he follows you. The purpose of this kind of leash is just very basic communication between you and your pet—so you can tell him in the simplest way to trust you and to follow you, or to go in the same direction you are going.
A simple leash is the basic way to ensure that an animal doesn’t run away from you. Usually, this is for the good of the animal. I remember experiences on my grandfather’s farm where a cow or a horse would fall into a ditch. The animal would panic and thrash around and do things that were obviously going to hurt him. My grandfather would go get the rope, loop it around the animal’s neck, and use his calm-assertive energy to get the animal to relax. Then he would use the rope to lead the animal to safety. The rope accomplished trust, respect, and leadership—and it allowed my grandfather to communicate directly with the animal about what direction it needed to go in order to get out of any given dangerous situation.
The simple leash is my tool of choice when I take my pack on the road. When I am going to walk Coco the Chihuahua, Louis the Chinese crested, and Sid the French bulldog in a strange city, I will loop my little nylon leashes over their necks and we’ll “migrate” for a few blocks. I like to keep the loop part of the leash high up on the neck, to give me more control over the animal’s head and to keep him from wandering or tracking or sniffing the ground. Just as Daddy, Coco, Louis, and I are totally in tune using leashes, so I could just as easily have them follow me off-leash in places where that is legal. Sid, however, is another story. We only adopted him a few months ago, and unfortunately, he’s got a long way to go in learning to understand limits and boundaries—those are the areas where I need to work with him. Sid is a retired show dog—a prizewinner, in fact. His experience of life up until recently was mostly inside the show ring. He never wandered in open areas or spent time in the outdoors, so if a squirrel passes by, it is a major event and distraction for him. Sid doesn’t yet understand that when he is outside, he can’t just tear off in any direction. Until he and I spend more time together, repeating over and over the exercises that will help him understand the concept of invisible boundaries, the only thing that is going to communicate boundaries to him is the leash, and the leash is going to save his life.
The Simple Collar
The next most basic tool for influencing a dog is the simple collar or buckle collar—the one that looks like a belt. This collar enables the dog to carry his tags. Most collars you can purchase have a feature where you can clip a leash on to it, creating a collar-leash combination. If an animal isn’t tame, he will fight a collar that is too restricting, but your average dog will have no problem with it. It is a step up from the little nylon leashes I use, and for most owners, it provides more security. Plus, collars come in thousands of styles and can cost anywhere from less than a dollar to thousands of dollars. Some stud collars can prevent another animal from hurting your dog’s neck if he happens to be attacked, but most of these collars are purely for aesthetic purposes. When Daddy and I were presenters at the Creative Arts Emmys in Los Angeles, I put him in his swankiest studded collar for the occasion. Did Daddy know the difference? Of course not. But the paparazzi did find him to be extra photogenic when he was walking down the red carpet!
A very important thing to remember when using any leash or collar on a dog is that you never bring the tool to the dog; you invite the dog to come to the tool. You can make it a positive experience by using treats or just your own energy. Chasing after a dog and trying to force something foreign around his neck will not accomplish trust or respect. The dog will either believe you are playing a game with him, or come to fear the tool itself. Never let a tool be associated with a negative in your dog’s mind.
The Flexi Leash
Flexi leashes were first created for tracking purposes. Before the flexi leash, handlers of tracking dogs would have to carry twenty-, thirty-, or forty-foot leashes to allow the dog to follow a scent; then they’d have to go through the long and tedious process of winding the leash back. The flexi leash became the perfect solution because the handler was able to command the dog to search and let the dog go, and once the dog had located its goal, the handler could just follow the lead to where the dog was waiting, reeling the leash in as she walked. Since its invention, the flexi leash has become very popular among pet owners because of what I believe is a myth: that a dog needs “freedom” on its walk.
Yes, dogs need freedom; all animals do. But the term freedom can have different definitions. The purpose of a walk with a pack leader is not to let the dog wander; it is to give the dog a powerful, primal, structured, bonding experience between human and dog. Most people don’t understand that the structured walk in itself can be a truly “freeing” experience for a dog. Often, the owner who is so concerned with her dog’s “freedom” is really secretly guilty for having left the dog alone in the house all day while she was at work. Somehow, letting her dog pull her all over the neighborhood in the name of “freedom” manages to soothe her guilty feelings.
When a dog is being walked on a flexi leash and pulls way out in front of the owner, then the dog is in charge. The dog is not tracking, which is a controlled, structured activity; it is simply sniffing. Many owners approve of this behavior because they believe they are allowing the dog to “read the newspaper,” or what some people now call reading her “pee-mail.” Yes, your dog does get her “daily news” from sniffing the ground, bushes, trees, hydrants, and other landmarks. She does find out who’s been around recently, whether someone has a health problem, and the rest of the juicy canine “Page Six” gossip tidbits that dogs pick up from scents and their environment. However, there is a right way and a wrong way for you to allow your dog this opportunity to catch up on the local news. First of all, your dog can get the same information when he’s walking behind or beside you. He doesn’t have to be pulling you along, acting as your pack leader. Second, I always recommend that a human “pack leader” allow her dog a short break or two in the middle of a walk to wander around and explore, to smell and to urinate. The difference is that the owner controls the behavior—gives her dog permission when and where to explore, then decides when it’s time to return to the structured walk. This way, you can maintain your solid pack leader status at the beginning and end of the walk, while rewarding your dog at the same time.
There are other negatives involving both control and safety using flexi leashes. A flexi leash gives you the minimum amount of control over your dog. People often get tangled in the leads, and sometimes, so do dogs. A very high-energy, active, dominant dog has the greatest likelihood of getting into trouble with so much space between the leash and the handler. The stronger the dog, the more likely he is to pull away from the handler, dragging her or even yanking the leash out of her hands, defeating the purpose. Flexi leashes work best with medium-energy, happy-go-lucky dogs or very lightweight dogs that don’t have dominance issues and are basically obedient in most situations.
The Choke Chain
The choke chain, probably the training tool with the most negative name in the world, originated from the same basic idea of the loop around the neck to control an animal’s movement. We’re back to the concept of my grandfather’s rope again. When used correctly, this tool is not supposed to cause an animal to “choke,” cut off an animal’s breath, or even cause momentary discomfort. The premise is that tightening the chain around the neck sends a message of correction, and releasing it implies that the correction has been heeded. Of course, if the chain is used incorrectly—pulling the dog’s neck upward with too much force—it can indeed cause a choking reaction. It’s intended to be used with a firm but gentle, split-second pull to the side; a “snap-out-of-it” kind of movement that has the sole purpose of simply getting the dog’s attention. I just wish they had given this tool a different name—loop chain, a neck chain, a control chain—anything other than a name that implies giving pain to a dog. But it seems we are stuck with the term choke chain, so that’s how I’ll refer to it here.
As always, it’s important to remember that when choosing a slightly more advanced tool like a choke chain, the owner should have a professional, or at the very least a salesperson at the pet store, instruct her hands-on in the correct way to use it. Most vital of all, the energy behind the chain must be calm and assertive, not upset, tense, anxious, or angry. If someone flails around, yanking a dog’s chain with anger and frustration, then this very useful, innocent tool can indeed choke—and become the instrument of cruelty that its unfortunate name implies.
A Note About Chains in General
My Dog Psychology Center in South Los Angeles is in the heart of some pretty hardcore gang territory. It seems that throughout history, aggressive men have gravitated toward big, tough dogs to make them seem more powerful. In this day and age, pit bulls seem to be the tough dog of choice—for gang members, drug dealers, and other antisocial types. In the past fifteen years, the brutal, underground culture of dogfighting has become a big source of income for gang members and other criminals. Many of my dogs at the center are survivors of such brutality—and if you go into any major animal shelter or pound in much of Los Angeles, you will see a majority of pit bulls who will probably lose their lives to euthanasia because they happened to have owners in that culture. I am strongly against this way of life. It is not only inhumane to animals, but many who attend dogfights bring their children to watch, creating a new generation of people who are desensitized to animal cruelty. It also creates a climate of prejudice against pit bulls, or the dogs sometimes known as “bully breeds,” that is not the fault of the breed but of the owner.
Chains seem to be a big part of this destructive culture. Gang members will put huge, heavy chains around the necks of their dogs to make them seem fiercer, or because they believe it makes them stronger for dogfights. It’s a misconception that putting weight on a dog’s neck makes it a better fighter. If the neck is strong but the body is lean, the dog will not be a good fighter. Heavy chains can give dogs head and neck problems. Chains are also used on dogs to chain them up in a yard, either for guard purposes or just to get the dog out of the way for a period of time—usually by criminals and people who are either uninformed or immune to animal cruelty. This is a very dangerous and cruel practice—the more tightly a dog is chained, the more pent-up energy he will have; the more pent-up energy, the more the aggression. A frustrated dog on a chain becomes a weapon, and is nearly three times more likely to attack or bite a person than a dog that is simply loose in a yard. Many activists in Los Angeles are working to set laws against this practice, and I support their efforts.
Back before I began rehabilitating dogs, I trained attack and guard dogs. As any police dog handler will tell you, a dog conditioned in human aggression does not have an easy on-off switch. The people who work with these dogs are experienced handlers and have specialized training to work with controlling such dogs. As I’ve written in Cesar’s Way, anyone should think long and hard before deciding to use a dog as a weapon.
The Martingale Collar
The martingale collar was designed to help a dog stay comfortable while remaining securely on the leash. It has a longer, wider section, usually made of leather, chain, or nylon, joined through two loops—the larger one placed loosely around the dog’s neck; the smaller one clipped onto the leash. If the dog pulls away from the leash, the tension pulls the small loop taut, tightening the larger loop around the neck. The wide section both prevents the chain from tangling in the dog’s coat and prevents the collar from becoming so tight it cuts off the dog’s airways. In my experience, martingales are a good alternative for happy-go-lucky dogs that don’t need a lot of correction, and for dogs that are basically well-behaved and just need an occasional reminder.
The Illusion Collar
A few years ago, my wife, Ilusion, suggested to me that I invent a leash that would help owners to hold a dog’s neck in the highest position during a walk—the way I do it on our television show. I suggested that she take a stab at it herself. With the assistance of designer Jaci Rohr, Ilusion perfected her original design of the Illusion collar, which helps you, the owner, put the natural architecture of a dog’s neck to use in your favor.
In terms of handling and leash work, a dog’s neck has three parts—the high, the middle, and the lower part.
The lower part is the strongest part of the neck, where the dog has the most control. Trying to control an unstable dog with a leash in this position can cause the dog to choke, pull, and wrestle—and you are likely to be the loser of this wrestling match. But when the leash is attached to the very top of the neck, you’re dealing with the most sensitive part. It takes very little effort for you to communicate, guide, and correct your dog when holding the leash in that position. It is more natural for the dog to give in and have a positive learning experience. It also removes the dog’s nose from the ground, redirecting him from the distractions of the environment around him. The Illusion collar is designed to use the lower part of the neck for support, while at the same time relying on the upper part of the neck for communication and control.
The Illusion collar also helps a dog to achieve a body language where she looks proud. I believe that’s why dog show handlers put their leashes at the top of the neck—to keep the dog’s head held high and to signal to the judges and the audience that the dog is a proud and confident contender. Any leash or collar placed high up on the neck will do this; we’ve just designed the Illusion to be more foolproof about it. When a dog holds her head up and looks forward, her entire body language changes. You can visually see it change. Her tail and chest often follow the head in being lifted higher. Once the body language changes, the energy follows suit. When a dog holds her head up, she is communicating a sense of pride about herself.
Is saying that dogs feel pride an effort to project human emotions onto them? In my opinion, it is not. We see displays of body language that communicate pride all throughout the animal kingdom. You know the phrase “proud as a peacock”? When a male peacock expands his multicolored wings, throws out his chest, and struts, he is out to attract a mate. That, to me, is an animal’s version of pride. Pride in the animal world is self-confidence, self-esteem, energy level, and assertiveness or even dominance. The “dominance” part of it can even come from a more submissive-type dog—because with the kind of pride or self-esteem I’m describing, there’s also playfulness involved. It’s not 100 percent dominance, requiring submission from others—it’s simply a dog feeling his best about being a dog.
Come to think of it, what I just described is not too different from what we call pride in the human world. I believe that feeling proud of one’s self is a natural state that encompasses the whole animal kingdom. So is low self-esteem. And the body language that signals both of these states doesn’t vary all that much from animal to animal, or even from animal to human.
Harnesses
Recently, I was in Central Park in New York, observing all the thousands of dogs and their owners. New Yorkers are great! Much more than Angelenos with big backyards, New Yorkers intuitively understand that dogs have to walk. Obviously, if a dog lives in a small apartment all day, he has to walk. New Yorkers are big walkers, too. However, only a small percentage of the dogs I saw in the park were being walked correctly. There were lots of owners being pulled all over the paths by their dogs. I also noticed that dogs with harnesses seemed to be very popular.
When it comes to the harness, we need to remember that harnesses were invented for the purpose of tracking and/or for pulling. They were not created for the purpose of controlling a dog. Huskies used the harness before any other breed, for pulling sleds over snow in cold climates. Cart dogs like the Swiss mountain dog and German shepherd dog in Germany were harnessed in order to carry loads for people. Saint Bernards wear harnesses so they can rescue people from the snow. The harness allows the dog to use the entire weight of his body as leverage to perform that task. Obviously, whatever is being pulled is behind the dog, even if it’s the owner.
In tracking, the harness allows the dog’s nose to have full contact with the ground. A collar or leash around a dog’s neck doesn’t allow him free use of his nose, which is essential in order to track.
In my experience, people who don’t know how to use a leash or collar properly may hear their dog coughing and fear the dog is choking. Some dogs do have softer and more sensitive throats than others, or medical conditions—or simply have not been correctly conditioned to accept the leash. Many owners of such dogs choose harnesses as their primary tool. This can be a wise choice if the proper walk etiquette is established, with the dog walking at the side of the owner. An easygoing, happy-go-lucky dog without obedience problems does fine with a harness. The problem is in many dogs the harness can trigger a pulling reflex. From my observations, it seems as if some people actually like being pulled by their dogs! This maybe fun—like waterskiing—but it will never earn your dog’s respect.
I see a lot of people, especially men at the beach, with fighting-type dogs in harnesses, pulling them along. It looks to me as if they want to announce to everyone else, “Look at me—I must be tough because I have a tough dog.” The dog becomes a macho status symbol, like a motorcycle or a Ferrari. I’d like to remind anyone who fits that description that your dog is a living, breathing being with needs of his own—not a shiny new piece of stereo equipment. Also, if your dog doesn’t respect you, that’s not very “macho,” now is it?
The No-pull Harness
There are several different brands and styles of no-pull or anti-pull harnesses on the market. They are designed to be more humane and feel more natural on the animal’s body (you can even buy them for pigs, cats, rabbits, etc.!) than regular harnesses, leashes, or other types of leads. This type of harness is supposed to gently squeeze the dog’s chest when he starts to pull. It creates an uncomfortable sensation that is supposed to discourage him from pulling. Many owners swear by this tool, but like every tool I’ve listed here, it can have its downside. I saw a lot of dogs in Central Park wearing no-pull harnesses that were having no problem pulling their owners! The dogs were just contorted into strange positions and pulling hard to one side. I would not recommend this tool for very-high-or high-energy-level dogs. Though they do offer more control than a regular harness—especially for an average walk—they aren’t ideal for an animal that you already have a hard time handling.
The Halti
Leading an animal by the head instead of the neck is not a new concept. People have been doing this for thousands of years. It is our primary way of managing horses, animals that are much larger and stronger than we are. The halti, or head collar, comes in several forms and has many names, including the “gentle leader.” Like any other tool, the halti works when it’s used properly, with the right energy, and it works best on dogs of a certain type—particularly long-nosed dogs. There are dog owners who swear by the halti and claim it is by far the best tool for controlling a dog. But in the wrong hands, it can be as ineffective as any other tool, and sometimes uncomfortable for a dog.
One positive aspect of a halti is if you are not strong enough to use a regular training collar on a hard-to-control dog, a halti can allow you more direct access to keep him from pulling you around. The halti is designed to fit around the face of a dog, positioned far down on the nose. It works on the same principle as any device that allows you to give a dog a correction when he behaves in a way that you do not agree with. When the dog pulls, the halti tightens around his the mouth; when he relaxes, the halti automatically loosens. The cause-and-effect correction is intended to keep the dog in the position where the owner wants him to stay.
One downside of a halti is that some dogs automatically feel uncomfortable wearing it—it’s not natural to have something foreign around their mouths—and it’s an easy device for them to revolt against. They can use their front paws to try and rub it off, or they can twist their heads around trying to shake it off. The best remedy for this is to make sure to associate early experiences of the halti with very positive rewards, such as food and a massage. As always, I recommend a professional trainer or behaviorist, vet technician, or at the very least, reputable pet store representative make sure you have the halti that correctly fits your dog so there is no possibility of physical strain or damage. And anyone who chooses this tool must be sure to work on their leadership skills in the home, to make sure that the dog doesn’t become dependent on the halti as its only excuse for good behavior.
The Muzzle
Wearing a muzzle is not a natural sensation for a dog. Unlike a halti, it totally blocks a dog from using his mouth and can be very uncomfortable at first. The muzzle was created specifically for prevention—to prevent a dog from biting another person or animal. I only advocate a muzzle as a temporary Band-Aid while working on a dog to achieve overall rehabilitation. If the only way you can go outside with your dog is to have him in a muzzle, then you probably have a bigger problem than just not having the right tool.
Since a dog is naturally going to fight a muzzle, it is imperative to introduce it to him slowly, and make it as pleasant an experience possible. I recommend exercising a dog with a vigorous walk or run before introducing any new item such as a training tool to him. The dog should not be overheated or thirsty, just fully exercised and relaxed. Then, armed with some exotic treats like hot dogs, hamburgers, or real cooked chicken, introduce him to the muzzle by letting him smell and explore it on his own. Then reward him with food.
Next, put the muzzle over his head but not around his face. He might be uncomfortable with it at first, but leave it there until he relaxes, then reward him with food. You can only give him food when he’s relaxed. The goal is for him to associate the muzzle with pleasure (food) and with relaxation. The next step is to put the food into the muzzle, and work up to putting it over his face while you keep feeding. Leave it there a little while until he’s totally relaxed, then take it off and come back again later. Don’t expect to have your dog accept the muzzle and be out on a walk right away. Come back to your dog an hour or two later, then start the reward process with the muzzle on the face. Once you have the muzzle tied and your dog is walking with it, reward him with food every time you take it off as well. Many dogs will fight any item you put on their bodies—even if it’s for their own good. Nothing like boots for snow or extreme heat or a bandage ever feels natural to a dog the first time out. It’s up to you to take the time and the patience to build up an association for the dog that any tool you use has a positive reward attached to it.
BASIC GUIDELINES FOR MUZZLING
• Try to do it after exercise.
• Begin when your dog’s body is relaxed.
• Finish when your dog’s mind is relaxed.
• Reward the experience.
• Never rush the process.
The Prong Collar
The prong collar—often known as its more negative name, the pinch collar—is another tool that can be invaluable when used correctly, or potentially hurtful when used incorrectly. Kathleen and Nicky, in the example I gave earlier in this chapter, were ideal candidates for a prong collar. A prong collar isn’t necessary for a happy-go-lucky dog; a small, lightweight dog under thirty pounds; or most important, an uninformed handler. In other cases, however, such as Kathleen’s, it can make the difference between responsible dog ownership and an accident waiting to happen, between saving an unstable animal and being forced to return him to a shelter where the only choice he has left is death.
The prong collar was designed to mimic the bite of a mother dog or a more dominant dog, much like the “claw-hand” correction I use as a natural rehabilitation method. Most carnivores—even those with powerful claws—use their teeth as their primary disciplinary tool. They bare their teeth as a warning, and they bite—either firmly or gently—to signal displeasure with another animal. Mother bears, mother tigers, and mother dogs all bite the necks or scruffs of their young to tell them to “stop that!” It’s not a bite that breaks the skin or even causes pain, but it gets the point across. Used correctly, I believe a prong collar can create an instant reaction much more quickly than many other tools, simply because it’s based on nature.
The basic prong collar operates on the same principle. It is made up of chain links that are pointed toward the loose skin around a dog’s neck. When the owner tightens the collar, it gives a quick, startling correction like a bite—if done properly, it should never be painful. In fact, an ideal prong-collar correction should feel like pressure rather than pinching—digging into the muscle in such a way that it actually creates relaxation. Imagine an experienced masseuse digging her thumbs into the tight muscles in your neck. You first feel pressure, then an immediate release. An informed prong-collar user can create such relaxation in a tense dog, but an incorrect use of the collar can actually create more tension and lead a dog into a fight.
Once again, a correction given with the wrong energy (frustration, anger) or timed wrong (given intermittently, not at the instant that the behavior occurs) is going to hurt the dog. If the handler is flailing about, making a correction over and over because the dog isn’t responding, it’s possible to make a dog become numb to the correction. A prong collar that’s too loose can fall out of position. Repeated, violent tugs on a prong collar can puncture a dog’s skin, especially if the collar hasn’t been fitted correctly. The objective is pressure, never pain. Fortunately, prong collars with plastic prongs and rubber bumpers over the points now exist, so the dog doesn’t even have to feel metal; he can just feel rubber or soft plastic.
In general, owners who have dogs that react in violently territorial or dominant ways around other dogs should be trained by a professional in the proper use of a prong collar before using it, since in my opinion, it can put the idea of a “bite” into the head of a dog that’s already wound up.
Like all tools, the ideal use of a prong collar is to further the relationship between human and dog to the extent that a dog learns to understand what behavior is and isn’t accepted by the owner. The goal is for the dog to come to respect the human as pack leader, so the human will be relying more on her own leadership skills and energy—not on any tool—to communicate her wishes to her dog.
The Electronic Collar
Perhaps no behavioral tool invented by man has been vilified more than the e-collar—or, as its opponents call it, the shock collar. I absolutely, positively agree with critics of this tool that, used incorrectly or put in the wrong hands, it can not only traumatize your dog, but permanently damage the trust you desire to build with him. However, when used by a proper handler, under proper circumstances, I believe that this tool can truly mean the difference between life and death for your pet.
The e-collar was originally invented for hunting. The first patents for the e-collar concept can be traced back as far as 1935. The whole point of the tool was to be able to correct a dog that maybe following the wrong scent, which is now, say, half a mile away. How can you reach the dog and give him some signal that he’s on the wrong track when you can’t even see him? In addition, hunting breeds have highly developed noses and once they are on to a scent, redirecting them is next to impossible even when close up, let alone far from the handler’s physical reach. In these cases, not only the hunt, but the dog itself can be at risk. He can get lost, he can get killed—the risks for a dog obsessively following the wrong trail are many. The e-collar solved that problem by being a remote-control way to communicate with a dog and get him back on the right track.
Many people unfamiliar with the correct use of this tool are also under the misconception that an electronic collar administers a pain to a dog. The myth is that a dog suffers what we imagine electroshock therapy may have been like in the early days of primitive mental hospitals. Since these collars have been in use for several decades, the earliest models had no options for variation in length or intensity of stimulus an owner could send to a dog, and were certainly far less considerate of the dog than the ones on the market today. But as technology has changed, so have our tools. The truth is, the grade of electrical current produced by reputable e-collars is more comparable to the kind of stimulation from a TENS unit that humans voluntarily use on themselves during physical therapy. My cowriter gets TENS intramuscle stimulation for twenty minutes twice a week when she goes to her chiropractor. She describes it as a “pins-and-needles” type of feeling.
Another thing to remember about the corrections administered by a reputable e-collar (and an educated, responsible handler) is the duration of the pulse. An effective correction should take only one-fortieth of a second—or less time than it takes the average person to snap her fingers. As I have mentioned earlier in this chapter, effective corrections of any kind should always be this quick. Because dogs live in the moment, a correction has to come in the split second when unwanted behavior begins. This is how the dog puts two and two together and becomes conditioned to the change in behavior.
So why, if an electronic collar is used correctly, do we witness a dog jump, startle, or even yip when a pulse is administered? It seems impossible to most onlookers that we are not, somehow, “hurting” the dog—something that, of course, we all want to avoid at all costs. The answer comes from the very basic difference between human and animal—the ability to reason. Most humans learn about electricity at an early age. We hear the story of Ben Franklin flying his kite in a thunderstorm and about Thomas Edison and his lightbulb. We learn that we shouldn’t put our fingers in light sockets and shouldn’t use electronic appliances when we’re in the bathtub, and know never to carry a metal umbrella in a lightning storm. In other words, we have knowledge about electricity’s causes and effects that our dogs don’t. The sensation of a mild electric shock—like that of scuffing our feet on a carpet or of a TENS unit relaxing our muscles in the chiropractor’s office—is not a totally foreign sensation to us. In the latter case, we understand that it might feel a little weird at first, but that ultimately it’s doing us good. To a primitive human living outside of our civilization, however, it would most likely produce the same startled, uncomfortable feeling that an e-collar produces in a dog. Fortunately, today’s modern e-collars have graduated steps of stimulation which we can totally control, starting at such a low level that a dog barely feels any sensation at all. That’s the correct place to safely introduce any dog to an e-collar.
Another important warning for those who choose the e-collar for appropriate situations is never let the control of the collar get into the wrong hands. The family member or members responsible for the e-collar conditioning should keep the remote control with them at all times, or keep it in a safe place, in case children or others who might not understand the process find it and misuse it.
As I discussed in The Best Tool in the World, positive punishment can be an effective training method. It can also be the most destructive method if used incorrectly or haphazardly. When a dog is startled by the e-collar’s pulse, he instantly relates it to an object or a behavior he is engaging in at the time. Improper use of an e-collar can damage the trust between you and your dog. Therefore I recommend that anyone wishing to use this tool in behavior modification consult with an experienced e-collar trainer who knows how to minimize punishment. I also believe that the e-collar is not a tool to be used on a dog for any long-term period of conditioning. When used correctly by an educated handler, it can save a dog’s life, but as always our aim should ultimately be to remove the need for its use by calm-assertive leadership.
Molly and the Combine
I’ll give you an example from a recent case from the third season of Dog Whisperer. Molly, a one-and-a-half-year-old blue heeler from the Eggers farm in Omaha, Nebraska, was the perfect farm dog—except for one problem. She was obsessed with chasing tires—from the small tires on her owner Mark Eggers’s pickup truck to the giant, seven-foot-tall tires on the farm combine. By the time I came into her short life, Molly had progressed to sinking her teeth into moving tires and had thus far lost an eye and had her lower jaw pushed up into her upper. And still, Molly’s obsession continued—overruling what should have been her natural common sense. Her owners, Mark and Lesha, were incredibly distressed. Molly had earned a deep place in their hearts and lives, yet they knew that it was only a matter of time before one day she would get her teeth caught on a tire and not make it through alive.
When I visited the Eggers family farm, I learned that Mark and Lesha had tried an electronic collar on Molly the previous year. It had worked temporarily, but they had not followed through. The collar had been too large for Molly’s neck, so the corrections she was receiving weren’t consistent. The owners also weren’t consistent about having her wear it every day, and they didn’t make sure she wore it ten hours a day, which was what was needed. Then, the planting and harvesting seasons had come, one after the other. Being working farmers, the Eggers had to put their livelihood above Molly’s reconditioning. So the collar idea was dropped—and it wasn’t long before Molly got into another serious accident.
I brought Molly a Dogtra electronic collar that was the perfect size for her small neck. We made sure she was comfortable with the collar before starting the corrections exercise. Then we tempted her with the pickup truck tires. As soon as Molly made a move toward the tires, I pressed the “nick” button at level 40. Without missing a beat, Molly made a wide U-turn and tore away from the tires. Next, she approached the most dangerous item on the farm—the combine. I taught Mark and Lesha how to spot the split second when Molly began focusing on the tire—and instructed them to press. Again, Molly darted away. No expression of pain or discomfort, just a fast movement away from the object she was already beginning to identify with the stimulus. This is the power of an e-collar used appropriately and correctly. By the end of the day, Mark and Lesha were only having to press the very lowest “vibrate” level to have Molly get the message. Before I left, I was able to drive past Molly in the combine while she lay peacefully off to the side. This was a first for her.
I instructed the Eggerses to leave the collar on for ten hours each day for three months, and to continue to use the lowest level of correction necessary (in this case, vibrate) when Molly began to obsess about tires. Three months later, Molly’s tire obsession was completely gone, and so was her need for the e-collar. With minimal discomfort, Molly can now look forward to the long, productive life of a cattle dog—and her family can look forward to many happy years of loving her.
Rocco and the Rattlesnake
An e-collar can also be used for very short periods of life-or-death negative conditioning. Recently, my friend Jada Pinkett Smith lost her beloved dog Rocco after he was attacked by a rattlesnake on her high-desert property. UC Davis School of Veterinary Medicine estimates that 150,000 domestic animals are bitten by poisonous snakes every year. That statistic shocked me, because the dogs I knew in Mexico all seemed to know instinctively to stay away from snakes and scorpions. Because I often take my pack up to walk on Jada’s trails and in other parts of Southern California snake country, I wanted to know if they, too, might be vulnerable to snake attacks. In an experiment at the center, I brought in a rattlesnake in a cage and exposed my pack to it. I was stunned to learn that, if that snake had been uncaged, I would have lost at least five dogs in just a few minutes’ time. That’s because, being city dogs, most of the pack had lost their natural instincts to be cautious of snakes—instead, they were curious. In that split second between their initial curiosity and their instincts kicking in to tell them that the snake could hurt them, the snake could have taken any number of them out, the same way that rattler ultimately killed Rocco. Jada and I decided to hire a professional whose specialty is conditioning dogs to avoid snakes, and have him work with each member of both of our packs.
Bob Kettle was a rugged, salt-of-the-earth guy, and his tool was the e-collar. He would use more than one snake to make sure the dogs’ associations with the snakes weren’t too specific, since different snakes have different scents. He instructed me to take my dogs out on the field and approach the snake cages. Daddy was the first guy I took out there. The moment Daddy keyed in on the snake, Bob would yell “break” to me, and at the instant he would administer the pulse, I would turn and pull Daddy away from the snake. We did this for less than ten minutes, and by the end of it, the last thing Daddy ever wanted to do in his life was go near a snake. He passed the test with flying colors, and then played with me happily for an hour afterward. One week later, I brought a caged snake to the center to give Daddy a final exam. Daddy didn’t even need to see the snake to get behind me and stay back. The conditioning took just ten minutes—but I gained a lifetime of peace of mind for myself when walking with Daddy and the rest of my pack in the snake-infested Santa Monica mountains. These are two examples where I believe the e-collar was a wise and humane choice for dogs. In life-or-death cases like this, and like Molly’s situation, when people ask me whether or not I support e-collars, I would have to say yes.
Dangers of E-collars
As I have mentioned previously, in the wrong hands and used incorrectly, e-collars can have negative consequences. However, thanks to advances in the e-collar, correctly using techniques that apply only low-level stimulations have made it a useful aid in training and behavior modification for appropriate situations. The e-collar should always be introduced to the dog so he understands what the stimulations mean, by finding the level that the dog just barely feels. It should not frighten or concern him but instead be just a new and different sensation he responds to, like the feel of a new leash. Without a gentle introduction to gain understanding, you can ruin your relationship and possibly damage the all-important trust between you and your dog. I have to stress again that to use any tool effectively, we still need to be calm and assertive leaders. Trust and respect are the keystones of the human-dog relationship. If you don’t have both, then you really don’t have a balanced relationship between you and your pet.
The most ineffective use of the e-collar is to use it for compulsion. Yet there are people out there who practice methods like this. Why? Because often, they produce faster, though usually superficial and temporary, results.
When I worked in a dog-training facility that also trained guard and attack dogs, many of these methods that I now view as mostly dangerous and negative for dogs were used on a daily basis. The establishment was being paid a lot of money to get dogs to respond to commands in two weeks’ time, and so we staff members were told to do whatever it took to get those results in two weeks. That’s one of the reasons I began to change my outlook on dogs and dog training, and develop my concept for dog rehabilitation instead. There is absolutely no point in giving an insecure dog a two-week deadline to learn obedience. Every dog needs its own period of time to learn and to become balanced—it’s not something you can rush, and it’s not something you can “send your dog out” to have done. As I’ve said before, dogs are not appliances. True obedience from a dog is something that requires patience and leadership and respect from the owner or handler. And though the electronic collar can often create fast results, again, unless the situation is a life-and-death one, it is a tool that is ripe for misuse and exploitation. Once again, if the energy behind an e-collar is angry, frustrated, or any other negative emotion, your chances of getting a good long-term result are close to zero.
As always, I believe your choice of tool—your choice for anything that you do for the animals you have taken into your care—is a matter between you and your conscience, you and your spirituality, you and your relationship with whatever higher power you believe in. If an e-collar still seems like the wrong tool for you, then thankfully there are many other options available. Whether or not you choose an e-collar, I recommend you find a professional whose methods and philosophies feel right for you, then get the correct, hands-on instruction before you attempt to influence your dogs’ behavior.
The Electronic Bark Collar
Another use for electronic collars is to prevent a dog from obsessive barking, and yes, it can work for this purpose. It’s my general observation, however, that an obsessive barker is almost always a dog that has pent-up frustration, is behind walls a lot, and doesn’t get enough exercise—specifically, primal pack-type walking from its owner. Sometimes the owner wants to take the easy route, so when she leaves for work, she waits until she’s outside the house and activates the remote control to stop the dog when he barks from inside the house. The collar is wired to give a sensation every time the dog barks during the day, whether the owner is nearby or not.
At one time, some bark collars could be activated by other sounds that weren’t the dog’s barking at all. It could be another dog barking outside, an echo inside the house, or even a reaction if the dog got too close to metal. Suddenly, the dog is not only being given the stimulation when it barks, but for a number of other inconsistent, unpredictable reasons. The dog can’t make the cause-and-effect connection—which is what’s crucial to any kind of conditioning. Dogs live in a very neat, clean cause-and-effect universe, and they naturally know that action equals reaction. Being given random, unpredictable punishments is just about the worst thing that can happen to a dog. This can result in a universally fearful dog; an anxious dog; a nervous dog; even, on rare occasions, an aggressive dog that may not have been aggressive before the irregular corrections began. Never use a bark collar that is based on a microphone alone. Fortunately, today’s bark collars mostly use vibration sensors only activated by the dog’s bark. This type of collar cannot be set off by other noises. I still believe there are other, more natural options to help a dog with a barking issue, but they will take a whole lot more time and intensive work from you, the owner. The first is—you guessed it—regular, vigorous walks next to you, for an hour a day, in your neighborhood.
The Citronella Collar
One option for people who don’t feel comfortable with an e-collar for barking problems is a citronella collar, which has only been marketed in the United States since 1995. A study at Cornell’s College of Veterinary Medicine found that this method—which uses a puff of natural citronella released under the dog’s chin (the same plant-based substance used to make the anti-mosquito candles you buy for your patio in the summer)—is actually more effective than electronic collars for what they refer to as “nuisance barking.” A microphone in the collar activates the substance, which startles the dog because it is a strange, unfamiliar smell that irritates the dog’s very sensitive nose. Because the dog’s nose is uncomfortable, his brain gets a signal to stop barking and to just breathe, to remove the unpleasant sensation. Like the e-collar, it’s a physical correction, just one based on an irritating scent instead of an irritating shock.
Based on the same philosophy of wearing an e-collar for ten hours a day whether it’s activated or not, a citronella collar can be replaced by a “dummy” collar once the dog begins to respond to it regularly. But like older electronic collars, the microphone in citronella collars can be activated by other sounds—including the barking of other dogs—but only if the noise is within four inches of the unit. If you choose this device, make sure the microphone is adjusted by a professional so that you are being fair to your dog and not correcting him for something he has not done.
The whole point of both e-collars and citronella collars for barking is for the collar to be a temporary measure. But in both cases, a dog can easily outsmart his human and realize that when the collar’s not on, he can do as he pleases. That’s why consistency is vital in both cases.
The Electronic Fence
Here in the United States, there remain some places where, by law, you can’t build a fence around your property. Likewise, building a fence can cost thousands of dollars, and some dog owners can’t afford to do so. An electronic fence creates an artificial boundary, so that the dog learns the limits of its territory. The dog receives a mild shock every time it approaches the “border.”
Electronic fences work very well for many people, and it can be argued that they mimic Mother Nature, which teaches animals boundaries all the time. When a dog in the wild sees a cliff, he knows if he goes too far, he’s going to get hurt. If there is a thicket with thorns in it, he may venture too close to the thorns and learn through the discomfort that it’s not a safe area for him. Dogs learn very quickly from their environments, which is the principle behind the electronic fence, and in my opinion this is a tool that can save a lot of lives. But again, owners need to learn to condition their dogs the right way when they install the fence for the first time. You don’t want to “test” your dog by throwing a ball over the fence so he’ll get shocked when he tries to retrieve it, because you don’t want him to associate the shock of the fence with you. When you first introduce the dog to the fence, make sure he is either tired out or at a low energy level, because a very-high-energy dog might ignore the shock just because he is so excited. Dogs in excited and fixated modes can be impossible to condition. Let your dog get tired out and then let him explore the new boundaries on his own. You may only get one chance to do it right—and it maybe a matter of life and death for your dog.
Scat Mats
Scat mats are based on the same philosophy as the electronic fence—the use of technology to try to reproduce the natural warnings Mother Nature gives to animals to stay away from certain things. The scat mat was originally intended for cats, which have a habit of climbing up on furniture, counters, bookcases—you name it—and it’s made up of a plastic mat with a net of wire inside, usually powered by a 9-volt battery. It emits a three-second pulse—again, the level of the shock is about the same sensation as we humans would receive from a carpet shock based on natural static. The shock causes the cat to jump off the counter, and generally, after two or three experiences, to avoid that piece of furniture in the future. Of course, it serves the same purpose for dogs.
Like the electronic fence (but at a lower intensity), scat mats succeed because the animal associates the consequence with the environment. As in all electricity-based devices, it’s important that you, the owner, make sure the product is in good working condition—that there are no loose or frayed wires—or anything else that could make this tool dangerous for your pet or your children.
Other Behavioral Tools
Granny’s Newspaper
Your grandmother and grandfather used to swear by the rolled-up newspaper they used to swat the dog on its nose as the only “training tool” they ever needed. It’s an old-fashioned, low-tech, low-cost form of discipline. It may have really worked for Granny. As I’ve already mentioned, the very act of picking up the newspaper was probably what empowered Granny—and that act became associated in the dog’s mind with something he shouldn’t do. But any kind of discipline that involves hitting with the hands can cause very negative complications for dogs. Being hit is not a natural thing in a dog’s world—they don’t discipline each other that way—so avoidance of hitting becomes not so much a consequence of breaking the rules in their minds, but an instinctual fear reaction that can cause shyness, mistrust, and other negative emotions. A hand flying toward them is a totally foreign experience to their instincts, so they might become shy of all hands, not just hands with newspapers in them. Fearing a hand can involve either avoiding a hand or biting a hand.
Startle and Sound-Related Tools
A more benign use of a newspaper for discipline is simply to roll it up and thwack it in your hand to startle a dog. Dogs have sensitive hearing—they’re always on the alert—and they are easily affected by strange, loud noises. This is the philosophy behind a whole subgroup of training aids, like beanbags or throw chains. These devices were most often used for housebreaking a dog—when the dog went toward a certain area to relieve himself, the owner would throw an object to startle him. The problem with anything that’s thrown is that the dog will usually not believe it came from outer space. Dogs have a very good sense of cause and effect, and a good sense of direction. Once the dog is associating this foreign object with you throwing it, you’ve begun the process of breaking your bond of trust with him, because having an ob ject thrown at him makes no natural sense to a dog. It may startle him enough to stop him from repeating a behavior, but it’s not going to make him respect you or accomplish calm submission.
Spend a day at the zoo observing any small society of primates. You’ll see that throwing things to get another animal’s attention is very much a “primate thing”—go to a large kindergarten class at recess and you’ll witness the same thing. It’s a natural, inborn primate activity—but it’s definitely not a canine activity! I’m a big believer in behavior techniques that mimic as closely as possible what dogs do with each other, or how they learn in nature. In order for this technique to be effective at all, first, you have to surprise the dog. Second, you have to be stealthy, like a hunter—throw the object so the animal doesn’t know exactly where it came from. Third, you have to carry the objects around with you at all times; and fourth, you have to have absolutely precise timing for the correction. It’s a technique that requires patience, precision, and a certain degree of inconvenience, and though it does work in theory and is, to most people, humane, in my experience, nine out of ten people will fail at it—they’ll quit out of frustration.
Spray Bottle
The spray bottle is considered by many to be another humane way of addressing a dog’s negative behavior, but it is by definition a more confrontational approach. Like any of the startle tools described above, its effectiveness depends totally on consistency and timing—which means the owner must carry the spray bottle around with her everywhere she goes. In my experience, this method is about 40 percent effective, and then for specific behaviors only. Also, it is not a 100 percent safe method. Dogs have developed eye, ear, and nose irritations and infections and other minor health problems from incorrect use of the spray bottle. In my opinion, like anything used to hit or throw at a dog, it is not a method of discipline that is natural in their world. And remember, the dog cannot help but associate you with the spray bottle, so remaining calm and assertive is a must.
Reducing the Need for Tools
This chapter was intended to introduce you to some of the basic behavior modification tools available to help you in your relationship with your dog. I don’t advocate any tools more than any other tools overall, though as is clear from my descriptions above, I think some tools work better than others in certain situations and with certain types of dogs. Others may disagree with those opinions, and may have evidence or experience to back up their beliefs. I encourage you to do your research to become as informed about tools as possible.
My point is that the issue of which tools to use or to avoid is a very personal one. Every dog is different; every dog has different issues; every owner is different. For any advanced tool (such as an e-collar, a prong collar, a muzzle, etc.), I cannot stress enough that you should have some professional guidance in its use. If you need an advanced tool to handle your dog, there is no substitute for some professional guidance—even if it is just an extended session of one-on-one instruction with the salesman at your local reputable pet store. There are also thousands of qualified dog trainers and behaviorists out there just waiting for a phone call, and it’s well worth the small investment for one of them to visit with you for an hour, show you the proper use of the device, and answer any questions you might have. With every trainer, as with every tool, you need to find the professional who fits your philosophy and your values, and you should first get a reference and have a conversation with him or her about views and methods before trying the trainer on your dog. It’s been said that if there’s one thing any two animal professionals can agree on, it’s that a third animal professional is doing everything wrong. Trust me—there are enough viewpoints, methods, and philosophies out there for you to find one that you feel right about in your heart. With our pets, it is always a matter of balancing our hearts with our practical sides. A good professional should be able to help you combine both to form a stronger and healthier bond with your dog.
Ultimately, I think any tool you choose should ideally be just a step along the road to relying on your best, most reliable tool—your energy. The dream scenario is that you may start with a tool like the prong collar, gain your confidence, and establish a better bond of trust and respect with your dog, then downshift to a nylon choke chain. In a year or so, you can use a simple rope—and a year later, you’ll be able to enjoy some off-leash experiences with your dog. Should you feel bad if, after three years, you still have to use a more advanced tool to control your dog? Of course not. Does that mean you should give up working on your leadership skills and trying to be a stronger pack leader? No! It is in our nature as human beings to always strive to make ourselves and our world better. I believe I am a good father to my sons, but I never for a moment stop thinking I could be a better one. I have found with my clients that, as their confidence increases, their bonds with their dogs improve, and they naturally find themselves relying less on tools and learning how to communicate rules, boundaries, and limitations through energy. There is no substitute for that energy and bond—no tool that money can buy—and almost no experience on earth can rival the kind of spiritual closeness that occurs when you and your dog are truly, naturally in sync.
DOS AND DON’TS OF TOOLS
1. DO thoroughly research the tool you are thinking of using. Don’t take any one opinion as gospel—check out at least three sources.
2. DO contact a professional if you are unfamiliar with a tool.
3. DO remember that a tool is only an extension of you and your energy.
4. DO work toward reducing your need for tools, especially advanced tools.
5. DO continue to work on your calm-assertive energy and leadership skills, no matter what tool you are using.
6. DON’T use any tool if you are tense, anxious, angry, or frustrated.
7. DON’T think of any tool as punishment.
8. DON’T rely on advanced tools such as e-collars as permanent solutions.
9. DON’T use any tool that you are not 100 percent comfortable using—intellectually, morally, or spiritually, no matter what the experts say.
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