In This Chapter
- Checking the lineage of koi
- Eyeing the beauty marks
- Getting a grip on the varieties
- Knowing what’s hot (and what’s not)
- Going for the gold: Tategoi
Most people have heard about koi
but usually in association with goldfish. In fact, most people think koi are
just big goldfish! This chapter gives you plenty of background to understand the
start of koi, the different kinds of koi, and their color combinations and body
shapes. We also cover the major koi markets, the most popular koi, and how to
recognize a winner. Stick with us to raise your understanding of koi to a whole
new level.
In the Beginning: A Brief History of Koi
Koi are descendents of wild (common)
carp that have been selectively bred for color, pattern, size, body shape,
scales (or lack thereof), and personality.
Taming of the carp: Koi’s grand pappy
- It gets big, nearing 50 inches.
- It isn’t a picky eater.
- It’s prolific, even under crowded conditions.
- It tastes good.
- It’s a movable feast.
The overall hardiness of the koi
suited it perfectly for the process of domestication. Unlike many fish, carp
proved to be quite undemanding in terms of water quality, oxygen levels, and
diet. As a result, they were able to adjust to a variety of habitats throughout
Japan and could breed readily in captive or semicaptive conditions.
Moving from food to art
As the years went by, the
koi-keepers in Japan couldn’t help but notice any oddball carp. As with any
captive breeding program, spontaneous color and body shape aberrations cropped
up from time to time. For example, the first unusual color was the red in a
Magoi’s belly scales or at the bases of the fins. Occasionally a Magoi
developed white areas or yellow-brown coloring rather than greenish-black.
Koi-keepers started putting these brighter fish aside and breeding them to each
other through several generations.
By 1830, the Magoi-keepers were
experimenting with the cross of a white carp with a red carp, and the Japanese
term koi had expanded to nishikigoi (brocaded or colored carp)
to describe the new domestic version. Note: Today, if you go to
Japan or buy fish imported from Japan, you’re looking at nishikigoi; when you
buy koi raised in other countries, you’re simply buying koi. The difference is
a little like buying chocolates from Switzerland (nishikigoi) or chocolates
from your local grocery store (koi).
The Japanese koi breeders soon
realized how lucrative breeding and selling koi destined for the dinner table
could be. Some breeders started keeping journals of their nishikigoi, carefully
recording the colors and shapes.
But as koi also became valued for
their appearance, the koi with especially favored traits commanded a higher
price than the koi intended for food. Interest spread among the Japanese
people, fueling the desire for ever more beautiful and unique strains of koi.
Launching a hobby
The popularity of koi within
Japan flourished after an association of koi breeders held an exhibition of
Japanese products in 1914 that included 25 of their prettiest nishikigoi. The
concept of a food source that was easy to raise and pretty to boot was
irresistible. More koi breeders set up mud ponds.
Nishikigoi went international in
the 1960s, when the development of the polyethylene shipping bag for tropical
fish meant breeders could ship live fish by air anywhere in the world. For the
first time, anyone who really wanted a koi (and had the money) could have one.
The poly bag even made it practical for koi fanciers to travel to Japan to pick
out their own koi and then ship the koi directly to their homes. As a result,
this undertaking that was once unique to Japan has been transformed into a
major new hobby with enthusiasts throughout the world.
Assessing the Beauty Marks of a Koi Today
As with any hobbyist, koi-keepers
can approach their favorite pastime with varying levels of interest, effort,
and expertise. To refine your skills and better prepare you for navigating the
world of koi, this section offers you backgrounds on three koi aspects: size,
scale type, and body shape (see the following section “The Confusing Part (Made
Simple): Koi Varieties” for the rest of the story). With this knowledge under
your net, you can easily distinguish a highly prized koi from one that’s just
so-so.
Tip
All terms to describe a koi’s color, pattern, or scale type are in Japanese. Although these terms may seem confusing at first, take time to know them so you can hold your own when you talk to other folks who keep, show, and sell koi.
First things first: Understanding the difference between goldfish and koi
Before we can delve into the
finer points of koi characteristics, we need to set the record straight on how
they differ from their distant cousin, the goldfish.
Goldfish and koi are both members
of the minnow family, and they both started out as carp. But they’re about as
closely related to each other as cattle are to oxen. For starters, although
they vaguely resemble goldfish, koi get much larger and have far more demanding
housing requirements. Table 2-1 identifies some of their most striking
differences.
Table 2-1 |
Differences between |
Goldfish and Koi |
Category
|
Goldfish
|
Koi
|
Breeding history
|
Began 2,000 years ago in southern/central China
|
Began in the 1820s in the town of Ojiya in the Nigata Prefecture of
northeastern Japan
|
Historical purpose
|
A diversion to delight the eye and bring peace to the soul
|
Abundant, easy, nutritious food source
|
Size
|
8 to 12 inches for fancy varieties; 16 inches for single-tailed
|
Size matters; meter-long (39 inches) are prized
|
Body and body part shapes
|
Come in endless permu- tations of four tail shapes, three
body shapes, three eye types, and a wide variety of colors
|
Vary to a much less degree than goldfish in terms of color and finnage;
selective breeding hasn’t altered basic body and eye shape from the wild form
|
Mouth characteristics
|
No barbels (hairlike feelers around the mouth)
|
Barbels (See Figure 2-1)
|
Water supply
|
Require no filtration or aeration unless in a crowded or warm environment
|
Highly dependent on filtration systems
|
Activity
|
Kind to aquatic plants
|
Ruthless plant shredders
|
Figure 2-1: Physical differences between a goldfish (top) and a koi (bottom).
However, koi and goldfish also
have some similarities such as the following:
- A rainbow of colors
- Tail shapes (Note: Diehard koi breeders still sneer at the long-finned koi.)
The anatomy of a koi
The koi’s body (see Figure 2-2)
isn’t modified for a specific habitat like many fish are (for example, the
flattened, bottom-dwelling flounder). Rather, its shape is probably what you
envision as a typical fish shape: tapered and streamlined, but somewhat
thickset to cut water resistance while swimming. Koi also have several other
distinguishing features:
- Three single fins and two paired fins: The single fins are the caudal (tail) fin, the anal fin (along the bottom of the body), and the dorsal fin (along the top). The pectoral fins (at the sides) and the anal fins (along the rear of the underside) are the paired fins.
- Vent: Eggs, sperm, and waste products exit the body through this combined opening.
- Operculum (gill cover): The gill cover is a movable flap on each side of the koi’s head. Water taken into the mouth passes out of the body at this point, after the gills have absorbed its oxygen.
- Nostrils: Koi use their two nostrils for scenting food and predators. The nostrils don’t aid in respiration (the gills have that part covered).
- Barbels: These two pairs of small, whiskerlike projections near the mouth contain taste buds and help the fish locate food in the muddy waters they often inhabit.
How big are we talking? The size of koi
When it comes to growth, koi
harken back to their carp ancestors. You can buy them as small as 4 inches, but
35 inches is pretty much the gold standard when you’re talking about big koi.
They may need
15 to 20 years to max out (most
koi reach about 32 inches), but if you have a big pond — and time — who knows?
The only downside to larger fish is that they’re hard to show because they’re
heavier, lose their scales in regular koi nets, and are less able to deal with stress
(due to their age).
Note: Koi can grow
to 6 inches by the end of their second summer, and that’s the size most
wholesalers or retailers want to buy them. Koi continue to grow for the first
five years, generally reaching 15 to 18 inches; after that, growth slows down.
Figure 2-2: The anatomy
of a koi.
Recognizing the finer points of koi
A number of characteristics are
used to describe koi including scales, fins, and most importantly, color. But
the one unwavering standard is the body shape. (Don’t worry about remembering
all of this — you can turn back to these pages and polish up your skills as
many times as you want.)
Starting with shape
- Chub is in. Koi conformation is a bit of a balance between practicality and aesthetics. The practical matter is that these fish were once bred and designed as food — the rounder, fuller, and more fully packed, the better. Because raising chubby koi required just as much space and food as raising slender ones, chubby won out every time.
Remember
On the other hand, moderation is critical. A fat koi may appear to lack grace and beauty. As a result, a well-formed koi is just like a Barbie doll, neither too fat nor too thin (imagine that!).
- Fins and body are proportional. A koi that’s too fat has a large body but its fins (which don’t change with weight) appear too small. As a result, the fish takes on a cartoon appearance.
- The sexiest shape is the upside-down pear. Viewed from above, the body-perfect widens from the pectoral fins to the leading edge of the dorsal fin and then tapers to the base of the tail. The nose is gently pointed, not sharply pointed or foreshortened as if the fish has run into the wall a few times.
Figure 2-3: The ideal koi
physique.
Where did those long fins come from?
Butterfly koi got their start through Blue Ridge
Fish Hatchery in North Carolina. In the early 90s, the hatchery bought what
were called long-finned koi from a fish dealer in New York City. When the
fish arrived, it was obvious they weren’t koi but only a long-finned carp,
and an ugly carp at that.
The long fins were placed in a pond so they could
grow up and perhaps get prettier in the process. Their beauty didn’t increase
but their long fins intrigued their owners. Maybe, they reasoned, those long
fins would cross over.
In efforts to breed a long-finned koi, the owners
mated the long-finned carp with metallic koi, producing vigorous young that,
sadly enough, looked very much like the adult long fins. However, the owners
held out hope, knowing that many koi don’t develop their true colors until
after at least the first year. So they placed the young butterfly koi in
their own pond until the end of the growing season. At the end of the season,
some of the fish turned out to be quite attractive — Cinderellas in long
fins.
Unlike the leather-skinned koi, the arrival of
the butterfly koi has been greeted with caution. No butterfly koi has yet won
a Champion. But if you like the graceful look of the long fins and you
appreciate hybrid vigor (the extra vitality that often results from a cross
between two closely related varieties or species), you may want to try the
butterflies in your pond.
|
Technical Stuff
According to tradition, mature females have a more graceful shape than the males, which is why most champions are female. Because champion females are also worth more than champion males (as is common with any pet), owners may inadvertently select their females more than their males to display.
Recognizing scale types
At one time, all koi had the same
sort of scales, just like other fish. But as with any other creature that’s
bred for many generations, oddballs pop up. For koi, there are normal scales
and variations:
- Doitsu: These are scaleless or partially scaled koi. They can be any color variety. Doitsu koi are divided by their scales (or lack thereof):
- Leather-skinned (scaleless)
- Mirror-scaled (rows or groups of distinctly large scales along each side)
You rarely run into Doitsu koi unless you get very serious about koi.
- KinGinRin: Sometimes normally-scaled koi have KinGinRin scales, which are highly reflective, normal-sized scales. The scales look like tiny spotlights running along the sides of the fish and can occur in any color variety. This sparkly quality is becoming more popular in the United States and is now bred into display-quality (inexpensive) koi. The placement of the scales determines their shortened name:
- The KinGinRin scales atop red coloration are KinRin (gold).
- The KinGinRin scales atop black or white are GinRin (silver).
Remember
Scales are usually mentioned only when they’re not standard.
Hast thou long finnage?
Butterfly koi are a fairly
recent carp development. The term refers to their long pectoral, anal, and tail
fins. If butterfly koi grow slowly in a small pond or aquarium, the fins grow
very long, almost the length of the body. For example, where the usual pectoral/body-length
ratio for koi is 1:5, butterfly koi are 1:3 and occasionally close to 1:1.
In addition, their skin has a
metallic hue, and they’re very graceful swimmers. The long fins and metallic
hue can be passed on to any color variety of koi. (Check out the color section
of this book to see the beauty of the butterfly koi.)
The Confusing Part (Made Simple): Koi Varieties
Koi may seem to be like patchwork
quilts, displaying a huge array of colors and color arrangements, but a clear
hierarchy of colors exists for describing or showing koi.
- Color and color patterns
- Brilliance
The brilliance factor breaks into
two simple categories: metallic and nonmetallic. The metallic and nonmetallic
koi are further divided into varieties, each named according to their
color and color patterns. (Check out more about these two categories at the end
of this section.)
Color me koi: The rainbow of many shades
Welcome to the world of naming
koi! A white koi with black markings is different — and thus has a different
name — from a black koi with white markings (although to the uninitiated the
difference can be hard to tell). Along the same vein, a white koi with one black
spot is different from a white koi that’s peppered with black. (Check out the
color section of this book for photos of the various koi varieties.) To add to
the confusion (and in an effort to increase their market share), koi breeders
continually try to develop new varieties.
Along with head and body shape,
the careful placement of color defines a quality koi. Note: For serious
koi owners, if a koi isn’t one of the major varieties, it’s just another fish.
Remember
Four basic rules help you decide a koi’s color:
- Koi are evaluated from the top. Be sure you’re looking down at it, not from the side.
- Any color can have any skin type. Types include fully scaled, leather-skinned, and mirror-scaled.
- Colors can change. You can buy a Sanke (a red, black, and white koi), but sometimes the red disappears as the fish gets a little older, leaving you with a black and white fish. So, congratulations — now you own a Bekko. Think of it this way: You’re getting two fish for the price of one.
- Markings can spread. Suppose the blue markings on your Ai Goromo are no longer restricted to the red and begin to spread over the body; your fish is now Goshiki. Again, twice the adventure!
At the other end of the spectrum
are display or garden koi. These koi don’t fit any of the named
varieties and are far less expensive as a result. Despite their lack of breeding
papers, these koi are beautiful and just as charming as the more expensive show-quality
koi.
Simply brilliant! The divisions of metallic and nonmetallic koi
Metallic and nonmetallic are
show-quality koi, and the closer a particular koi comes to its variety’s
standard, the more expensive it is. Note: The nonmetallic designation
is accurate, but the term isn’t commonly used; the metallic designation
is frequently used.
In competition, metallic koi
divide into three groups (see the subsection “The metallic koi” a little later
in this section).
The nonmetallic koi are grouped
according to their base color, and we break down the 13-or-so varieties so you
have all the info you need before heading for the fish farm.
Tip
In all honesty, the classification system is a bit wacko — some koi enthusiasts include KinGinRin (see the previous section) as a variety, so theoretically any shapeless koi of any color with KinGinRin scales can compete against any other KinGinRin. The classification is more of a guideline than a concrete system.
The nonmetallic koi
The standard nonmetallic koi types have no special glow to their scales, just a sheen or luster that doesn’t distract from the color or pattern. The fish in this group tend to be reds and blacks because these colors show up better without metallic scales. Check out Table 2-2 for a brief rundown of the nonmetallic koi varieties.
Table 2-2 |
Nonmetallic Koi Varieties and Their Features |
|||
Variety
|
Body Color
|
Accent Color(s)
|
Special Features
|
Other Info
|
Asagi
|
Blue back; red belly
|
Pale lines show between the scales; fins are pale and accented with
red; nose and head are pale, but face may have red cheeks
|
Back has a diamond like grid pattern
|
N/A
|
Bekko
|
Solid-colored red, white, or yellow
|
Black blotches
|
Name means tortoise shell, a reference to the pattern
|
A good one can cost four figures
|
Kawarimono
|
A catchall class
|
Includes the black (crow) koi that have white markings and the brown Chagoi
|
N/A
|
The name means unusual ones
|
Kohaku
|
White
|
Red markings
|
Tail base is completely white, but fish is judged on overall
appearance; ratio of red to white should be pleasing;
red that runs in a lightening-bolt-
like
pattern from eyes to tail base is very good
|
This classic koi is Japan’s most popular
|
Koromo
|
White
|
Red and white with another color
|
N/A
|
This is a Kohaku with one more color over the red only; some markings
are cloaked or masked by blue or black markings
|
Sanke
|
White
|
Black and red markings; black is the accent color that appears only
above the lateral line
|
Black coloring is ephemeral; may not appear on younger koi or may
appear, vanish, and even re-appear
|
N/A
|
Showa
|
Black
|
Red and white blotches
|
Patterns change with age and may not settle until the fish is 2 years
old (a variability that people find most alluring); dark markings wrap around
from top to belly but don’t cover or exceed the red; black areas on the pectoral
are in balance
|
This is a cross between the classic red and white Kohaku and the Kit
Utsuri
|
Tancho
|
White
|
One red marking on top of the head
|
The best head spots are circular, oval,
|
Red marking is reminiscent of the sand hill crane, for which the fish
is named
|
Utsuri Mono
|
Most are black, but a white form exists
|
Yellow, white, or red patterns overlay the black coloring
|
N/A
|
N/A
|
The metallic koi
These koi are characterized by a
reflective layer in the scales that makes the fish seem to glow in bright
lighting. They’re spectacular in a pond with black or dark green walls.
Although metallic koi boast fewer varieties than the nonmetallic, these are
popular fish nonetheless.
Because the reflective quality of
metallic scales reduces the reds and blacks that are so admired in the
nonmetallic koi, a whole different set of colors are prized in the metallic
category (see the previous section for the best nonmetallic colors).
Metallic koi, also called Hikari
koi, are separated into three groups as follows:
- Hikarimuji (or Hikari Muji): Koi with one metallic color (Because nothing is ever simple in koi-keeping, this group also includes Matsuba koi, which are patterned).
- Matsuba: Metallic one-color koi that have a black marking in the center of each scale which gives them a pine-cone-like pattern. They may be gold, gray, silver, or orange.
- Ogon: Single-colored koi that may be gold, silver (or platinum), orange, or red and white. This last color mix is basically a metallic Kohaku. A highly reflective head is a desirable quality in the Ogons.
- Hikariutsuri (or Hikari Utsuri): These are Utsuri or Showa that have gone metallic; in other words, they’re metallic red, black, and white koi.
Because the metallic quality of the scales tends to overwhelm the red and black, outstanding examples are hard to find. Put them in a blue show bowl and they look really ugly; put them back in a black pond and they look pretty good. Showing these fish is a study in frustration.
- Hikarimoyo (or Hikari Moyo): These are multicolored metallic koi, with platinum and red or platinum and yellow.
The Popularity Contest: Which Varieties Take the Trophy?
Some koi varieties are more
popular than others. And surprisingly, the most popular koi are quite ordinary,
decorative-type koi with no special markings or distinguishing characteristics.
This seeming
To illustrate this contradiction,
consider the following facts:
- The red and white Koromo is a more popular variety than the Showa (a red, white, and black koi).
- If your Utsuri Mono is competing against a Koromo, don’t be surprised when the judges select the more popular — but obviously plainer — Koromo.
- The Tancho (an all-white koi with a red rosette on the top of the head) is possibly the most popular koi of all despite its rather plain color scheme.
Different koi are popular in
different countries. For example, Japanese koi-keepers favor the traditional,
normal-scaled koi in some combination of white, red, and black colors. But in
the United States, the brightly reflective KinGinRin koi are popular. Japanese
breeders may also prefer the older koi varieties with normal scales, but
breeders in other countries enjoy the leather-skinned, mirror-scaled GinRins
and long-finned varieties more.
Long fins haven’t gained the
acceptance level of other koi characteristics in competition, so they’re
usually in a separate class. Nonetheless, the long-finned morphs are very
popular with hobbyists and with companies who supply display-quality koi for public
ponds.
The Karate Kids of Koi: Tategoi and Their Potential
Tategoi means keepkoi, a
koi that is worthy of keeping. These are koi with potential, koi that by dint
of breeding or appearance have the potential to get better, become prize
winners. Tategoi are usually young fish, but they can also be mature fish whose
potential is just being realized.
The term is also widely misused
for marketing, much like the term investment dressing, where a $2,500
dress suit is supposed to make the wearer look great and stay stylish for
years. A crafty koi breeder can label any koi Tategoi— and how is a newbie
going to know any better?
The hallmark of a real Tategoi is
its skin — not the color or texture, but the quality. The markings are intense
and well placed. In addition, the head is unblemished, the body is solid but
not fat, and the fins are in proportion to the body.
Who decides whether a koi is
Tategoi? Ay, there’s the rub. Anyone can decide that his fish, one or all, have
the potential to be champions. But it makes a lot more sense to depend on the
breeder’s reputation, how long the firm’s been in business, and your relationship
with that breeder.
Points to keep in mind when
looking for a Tategoi:
- Ask a fish dealer that you respect to serve as your agent. Tell her
- How much you want to spend
- What kind of koi you want
- What size fish you want
Remember
Be specific. If you’re going to spend the money to buy a Tategoi, buy one you’re going to enjoy. The fish dealer makes the trip to Japan, but she’s shopping for you and your needs, not just for a Tategoi. Consider these other purchasing options:
- Some koi dealers bring in a group of high-quality, young koi as a weekend special event. You look over the fish and buy the one you like best. Maybe it’s a Tategoi, but maybe it’s a pretty koi that simply delights you every time you feed it.
- When your local pond store gets a new shipment of koi from Japan, be among the first to check it out.by R.D.Bartlett and Patricia Bartlett
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