In This Chapter
- Tackling multiple obstacles in the right order
- Becoming an effective course director
- Finding solutions to specific problems
In this chapter you find out
about these moves and how to teach your dog to sequence up to 20 obstacles in a
row. No joke! Working piece-by-piece, slowly and steadily, you’ll be out there directing
your superstar athlete who’ll look to you with eagerness and respect . . . and
before you know it, people will look to you with awe and envy, thinking “What a
harmonious pair!”
Before we finish, we troubleshoot
problems that befall many newbie handlers. The good news/bad news here is that
most problems result from human misjudgment and handling errors. But human
errors are way easier to correct than dog-related issues, so don’t fear your
missteps!
Mixing Obstacles
Envision a competitive agility
course — 16 to 20 obstacles laid out and prearranged in various positions and
angles on the field. There’s one starting point and one finish line. You and
your dog come out together, focused on
Eventually, your dog — yes, your
dog — will move seamlessly through a course of up to 20 obstacles. But don’t
get overwhelmed; it’s a building process, and what seems far-fetched now will
come together over time. Eventually, you’ll move from the starting gate to the
finish line in under three minutes.
Initially, you combine two or
three obstacles your dog has mastered. Begin with two or three jumps in a
straight line. As your dog masters the straight sequence, angle them in a
slight curve. Then add a tunnel. Then a well-honed contact obstacle. Slowly
chain more and more obstacles together and vary the positioning as you learn
different directing moves. For instance, you may start with two jumps, and then
toss in a third — or maybe a tunnel or contact obstacle — increasing the number
of obstacles in your sequence.
At some point, you can set up
your own mini-course. Please don’t wing this, especially if your aim is
competition. Figure out sequencing with the help of your agility teacher before
you try it at home. Bad habits are hard to break — no matter how many legs you
stand on!
Tip
You can visit the Agility Course Maps Web site (agilitycoursemaps.com/CourseMap.aspx) to see a few official sample courses that you can try after you know how to signal and direct your dog from one obstacle to the next. Look for a Novice or Starters level course — it may not be on the first page.
Tip
To figure out the spacing of the obstacles, speak to a professional. The distances between obstacles and the heights and measurements of the equipment are determined in large part by the size and breed of your dog.
Obstacle spacing is crucial when
sequencing a course. If obstacles are bunched, there will be little flow
because much of the dog’s concentration will be wrapped around gauging his
speed and approach. Spread them out and time will be lost racing back and
forth, not to mention the dogs who can quickly outrun their handlers!
When setting up a practice
course, there are a few general rules of thumb. The obstacles should be placed
so that the dog has 18 to 21 inches of straight runway to approach all jumping,
tire, or spread jumps; when a contact obstacle is presented, the dog should be
directed to approach the plank straight on. When angles are added to the course
layout, there needs to be a greater distance allotment to allow the dog to
direct himself to the next obstacle. There are programs available online that
allow you to design a course tailored for the coordinates of your location and
the measurements of your dog. My favorite is Clean Run Course Designer 3, which
you can explore at www.coursedesigner.com/newcd3;jsessionid=2B356C4442826D69A48A4093E100873F.
Directing Your Dog to Do a Sequence of Obstacles
When your dog is eager to
practice, reliably consistent in completing an obstacle, and responsive to your
directions, you’re ready to begin sequencing, arranging more than one
obstacle and directing your dog in a pre-determined order. There are two
parts to this process:
- Teaching your dog to perform a series of obstacles, arranged in various fashions
- Learning how to direct your dog and choreograph your motions to minimize your footwork and maximize your dog’s speed
Tip
When you begin sequencing obstacles together, include only those that your dog loves on a standalone basis. If he’s having trouble with one, for example, the dog walk, you may begin some sequencing moves that exclude the dog walk as you continue to practice this obstacle individually. Remember, your dog’s success is based on two things: his understanding of each obstacle and your proficiency in giving him clear, understandable directions.
Giving commands and hand signals
If you’ve trained your dog in
obedience, check your inner drill sergeant at the door. Many of the
tried-and-true obedience rules — use commands only once, keep your praise calm
or you’ll excite your dog, always work your dog on your left side — simply don’t
apply to this sport. On the agility field, you’ll likely find yourself
shouting. Excitedly, eagerly! You’ll often repeat commands as you urge your dog
through the course. Don’t worry, you’re not making mistakes! You’re simply
reflecting the nature of the game — and your verbal encouragement should bring
on a canine-adrenaline rush.
When I trained in agility, I
liked to think of myself as an ocean current — urging my dog’s enthusiasm with
words and motions to help her navigate the way. I knew she was excitable and
athletic, and her focus was drawn in 15 directions all at once. It was up to me
to keep her attention, to be the powerful current, so she would stay focused
and ride the wave!
When you’re out there, you have
two tools at your disposal to steady your dog and direct his way: commands and
body signals. Use both simultaneously, focus on your timing, and watch your dog
looking to you to light his way. Here’s how to use these tools:
- Loud, excited, urgent commands: As you navigate your dog around an agility course, give your directional commands with urgency and joy! Work on clear comprehension and directing body signals so your dog gets the visual on first command — think of your directions as a steering wheel that will . . . eventually . . . guide your dog across an ever-changing course configuration.
Remember
Always remember that you won’t be penalized for repeating your command should you need to do so. Agility is very different from everyday life, so say your directions loudly, repeat yourself if necessary, and urge your dog with an excited tone!
- Big body signals: When you want to send your dog off in one direction or another, don’t use a subtle hand gesture — use your whole arm as though it has the power to push your dog in the right direction. Bowling signals — large, theatrical, bowling-like arm sweeps — should be used to direct your dog every path of the way. When you want your dog to race to an obstacle, don’t walk toward it; run fast and keep your eyes fixed on where he should go as you lean toward the obstacle with your whole torso and wave your arms to urge his excitement!
Tip
When signaling, use the arm or hand closest to the obstacles.
Remember
Commands and signals work in tandem. Your dog listens for your directions — and is powerfully swayed by your encouragement — but he depends on your signals to help him make split-second directional decisions. Think electricity here — the more animation you put out, the higher the voltage. Your dog responds to whatever you send out, so ramp it up!
Getting a handle on handling
While your dog may be eager to
learn sequencing, it’s up to you to simplify it. No matter how well he knows
each individual obstacle, the new, multi-obstacle configurations will be
something completely new — and your dog will be clueless.
Did you think you’d just wing it,
running around the course telling your dog which way to go? The problem is that
your dog can outpace you in a nanosecond, and if he loses sight of you, he’ll
stop in his tracks, utterly bewildered yet still pulsing with adrenaline — a
tough combination. That’s why learning to direct him with verbal and body cues
is important.
Tip
Before you teach your dog how to move about an agility course, study and learn the human moves. Study the commands. See how they differ between the way you use them with your dog in your routine life and the way they’re used to direct your dog’s placement on the course. Once you see the science that belies the chaos, you’ll feel more confident directing your dog.
Fortunately, there are fine-tuned “human” techniques for sequencing agility obstacles, and I cover them here. Take time to envision, learn, and practice them (when possible without your dog and in front of an experienced handler) before you begin! Once you embrace the integral role you’ll play on the field and feel comfortable with
the commands and body cues, you’re ready to work with, teach, and direct your
dog.
Teaching “Here”
“Here” is similar to the “Come”
command — it tells your dog to run toward you. The difference? “Come” invites a
reconnection — a stop-and-share-the-moment. Agility requires top speed — so “Come”
isn’t the ideal choice.
On the course, “Here” directs
your dog toward you — then you need to quickly send him to the next obstacle,
for example, “Tire” or “Frame.” Practice your timing — shouting and signaling
to the next obstacle before your dog reaches you. Invigorating!
“Here” should alert your dog to
turn quickly in your direction. Wave a toy or a cup of treats, and shout “Here”
as you step back away from your dog or call to him from a distance. As he runs
in your direction, toss the object in one direction or the other shouting “Go
left” or “Go right” as you do.
Getting your dog to lead out
Okay, I’m going to state the
obvious. You have two legs; your dog has four. No matter his size, he’ll
outpace you. Rather than slowing his progression, teach him to lead out —
to race ahead of you and take whatever obstacle you point him toward.
Tip
Most people tell their dogs to “Get out” or “Go on.” Use one command consistently, and practice the playful exercises found in Chapter Laying the Foundations for Agility. Taught properly, your dog will grow confident racing ahead of you.
The “Get out” command rarely
stands alone. Once you teach your dog to race ahead of you, you need to
incorporate directions that send him toward the next obstacle. Use your
dramatic bowling body signals to point to the chosen obstacle and a verbal cue
to further specify it, for example, “Get out–Tire!”
Technical Stuff
The command “Get out” has a lot of uses on the agility field. Once your dog has mastered his obstacles and is eager to perform them, you may notice that you’re holding him back . . . it’s the two-leg to four-leg ratio. If your dog is outpacing you on the way to an obstacle, you can use “Get out” to support his initiative and vision. In competitions, you’ll likely use this move at the very end of the course, sending your dog out to take the last series of obstacles and cross the finish line solo.
Using call-offs
Call-offs are used on-course to
call a dog away from an incorrect obstacle. You may call out the name of the
proper obstacle, “Go left or “Go right,” or “Here” if you’re well positioned to
bring the dog toward the right one. Envision your dog running a course of
preset obstacles. As he finishes one obstacle, he has two choices: run straight
and take the obstacle that faces
While these maneuvers are
generally used in higher-level competition, they sharpen even a novice dog’s
concentration.
“Go left,” “Go right”
While this may sound like an
exercise for the trick chapters, your dog can learn his left from his right —
and you can use these commands to direct him on the field.
In Chapter Introducing
Your Dog to Jumps, Tunnels, and Tables, I introduce you to
a fun game, tossing rewards to either side and routinely shouting out the
appropriate cue. The following exercise challenges your dog’s comprehension:
1. Set up two low jumps side
by side.
2. Walk out beyond the jumps
15–20 feet, while leaving your dog in a “Sit–Stay” facing the jumps.
3. Stand in the center of the
two jumps.
4. Command “Here–Left,” as you
dramatically signal with your left arm and run across to the middle of the left
jump.
If necessary, use a helper to guide your dog.
5. Now practice “Here–right,”
reversing your directional cues.
When you’re working a course, use
the commands “Go left” and “Go right” to help your dog navigate the obstacles,
especially when the layout is tight and confusing.
Warning!
Traps are never a good thing. An agility trap is set by positioning the exit of one obstacle in line with the entry of another but requiring the dog to completely avoid it. It’s the handler’s job to call his or her dog off-course and direct the dog to another, often less-obvious obstacle. A common trap involves the tunnel placed directly under the A-frame: Because the tunnel is a hard obstacle to avoid anyway, the temptation is compounded! Traps are usually found in higher-level competitions — but practice them early, just in case one crops up sooner than you expect.
Footwork on the field
When working a sequenced course,
your dog’s success or failure often depends on your footwork, steadiness, and
clarity. If you mix up your signals or blurt out the wrong direction, you dog
won’t know what to do — he’ll simply respond. This blind devotion can result in
a missed obstacle or a dog who’s off-course and/or out of sync. Before you get
nervous, a quick review is in order — knowledge is power, no matter what your
activity!
Deciding where to position yourself
As you direct your dog, you want
to position yourself to minimize your mobility (too much activity disorients
your dog) while staying visible to your dog as he maneuvers each obstacle.
Check out Figure 15-1. Identify
the inside line or center footprint of the course versus the outside
line, the course path that encircles all the equipment. The inside line
keeps you on the inside path of the obstacles so you can direct your dog like
the arms of a clock. The outside line puts you outside of the center, or on the
periphery of the course. In trials, you’ll have time to walk the course ahead of
time to determine the best path for directing your dog during a competitive
run.
If your dog will “Stay” at the
starting line, you can walk out and stand right next to the first set of
obstacles. In this instance, you can call your dog right to you using the “Here”
command.
As your dog is running forward,
position yourself to direct him to the next obstacle. If you’re able to stand
next to a jump, for example, you can shout “Here–Over” to signal the jump. If
the tunnel is next, you can just shout “Tunnel” as your dog clears the
obstacle. With agility, you never know what configuration you’ll get, but you’ll
have fun piecing it all together.
Tip
Practice your timing: As your dog is taking the preceding obstacle, move toward the next obstacle and command the next move. No time for a hug!
Working on both sides
At home, my dog Shayna always
followed on my left side. When she approached me on the couch it was always to
my left. When practicing tricks, she skewed her posture to the . . . you guessed
it . . . left. But on an agility field, she would work on either side of me. As
we moved quickly around the course, I would sometimes be in front of or behind
her, often maneuvering my position to the left or right depending on the path
of the prearranged course. As both of us moved through the obstacles, my
positioning helped her orient her next move. From her perspective, my
positioning was unpredictable, but watching me would help her orient herself on
the course.
Tip
Throughout the learning phase, mix it up: Stand both to the right and left side of an obstacle. Use your vocal cues and body signals to guide your dog from one obstacle to the next.
Crossing your dog’s path
As you learn to handle more
obstacles, you may see a course configuration that shifts the inside line. To
make the most of your footwork, you may need to cross your dog’s path in order
to direct him to the next move. Here’s how crosses work:
- Crossover (cross-in-front): If you need to cross in front of your dog, the only thing to practice is timing. If you’re too late, you may ram into your dog or pull his attention away from the next obstacle in the progression.
Tip
Study each course before running it with your dog. When you determine a crossover is the best move — perhaps the tunnel is curved away from the center and upon exiting your dog will need to change direction, or the jump/contact obstacles are lined up so that your dog will have to turn off the center line to take it — envision making the cross the moment your dog has committed to the preceding obstacle, but long before he’s completed it. Of course we’re talking about milliseconds; nevertheless, cross early and cross quickly. Call out the next direction as your dog completes each obstacle — he won’t skip a beat!
- Cross behind: Some courses change their inside lines in other directions that necessitate a cross behind. Here you would cross behind your dog as he took an obstacle in order to position yourself to direct his next movement. This would be a good move when your dog must turn 180 degrees to move to the next obstacle. The tunnel is the ideal obstacle with which to make this shift because it gives you that extra millisecond to make your shift, though you may need to make this move elsewhere as well. Similar to crossovers, steady your timing. Once your dog has committed to the obstacle in front of him, make your cross. Shout your next direction as your dog completes the obstacle and make sure he can find you the instant he reorients himself on the field.
Troubleshooting
Believe it or not, the hardest
thing to manage on an agility field isn’t your dog . . . it’s yourself: your
handling techniques, your footwork, and your temper. You’ll have good days and
not-so-good days. Like you, your dog will also have on days and off days — days
he’ll be steaming up the car windows and days he’d probably rather hang out at
home. But the difference between you and your dog is that you can articulate
your feelings. You can pop a couple of aspirin and call off the show when you’re
feeling under the weather. Your dog can’t tell anyone anything — it’s up to you
to know your dog, to “listen” to him, to dissect his behavior, and to trace any
inconsistencies to their root causes.
In this section, you discover how
to read your dog’s physical discomfort signs as well as how to troubleshoot
problems like missed contacts and incomplete jumps. You also learn to take an
up-close look at yourself to discover if, by chance, your handling is creating
confusion. Many times it’s important to ask what you’re doing wrong!
Respecting your dog’s physical inhibitions
If your dog is having trouble on
the agility course, physical limitations are some of the first things to watch
for. In this section, I discuss illness and injury as well as breed
limitations, whether they’re related to your dog’s body shape or demeanor.
Watching out for illness and injury
Think of the last time you had an ache or a pain . . . perhaps it was that awkward misstep that tweaked your ankle, something you ate, or a sporty excursion that left you zapped of your normal get-up-and-go. You can’t control everything; like everyone else, you learn to roll with the punches. Well, your dog is no different: He’s not a machine. Trapped in his mammalian frame, his body can and often does suffer similar shutdowns.
Learn to read your dog — watch
his movements, expressions, and behavior. If he’s having an off day, consider
why.
Tip
Take some time to know your dog. Watch him on his best day. Look at how he moves; count his strides as he approaches the single-bar jump; note the happy gleam in his eye as he watches you for his next cue. Record these moments in your head for comparison purposes. Also take his resting temperature, and pass your hands along his legs, hips, and joints. Notice how he reacts to your touch.
If you suspect injury or illness,
caress your dog, speak to him calmly, and slow down. If you push him through or
force him to practice, you may damage his enthusiasm for the sport, and thus
your agility career. In my mind, it just isn’t worth it. Treat your dog as you’d
like to be treated.
Warning!
Many injuries and illnesses require a veterinarian’s attention. Reference Chapter Top Ten Sports Injuries for Dogs for physical conditions, and note those that do.
Recognizing breed limits
More dogs can think like a Border
Collie than move like one. No matter how eager your dog is to do agility,
respect his breed restrictions (see Chapter Considering
Agility Training). Place obstacles at heights and
angles that limit joint stress and maximize your dog’s success rate.
If your dog is refusing ramps,
balking at jump heights, or refusing to follow your lead, consider the obstacle’s
position: Has it changed or been raised? Your dog’s physical stature dictates
how obstacles are set for repetitive practice.
Next consider your training
approach. Some dog breeds, such as the Border Collie, the Australian Shepherd,
and the Golden Retriever, thrive on repetition. These breeds have their own
inner dictator pushing them to strive for perfection. Repetitive practice helps
them to nail a performance strategy.
Other breeds are not bred for
repetitive work, including many instinctively driven breeds like Terriers,
Nordic breeds, and Hounds. These dogs snub routine practice. When working them,
the best reward for a breakthrough performance is a few days practice-free.
They seem to encode success better when they’re allowed to sleep on it!
Handling the dog who acts up
My daughter’s a ham. She’s
delightful, funny, and loves a big audience. Why talk when you can shout? Why
stand when you can dance? Why sit still when you can make a funny face and
scratch your dog’s head with your big toe?
Dogs have personalities, too.
Many of the dogs who act up are comics: smart, energetic dogs that dance on the
edge of good behavior. These dogs
Tip
So how can you manage your comedian? Try the French-fry cure. Find an über-treat that your little jokester will do back flips for: a mind-bending reward that he only gets on special days. Use your chosen tidbit to keep his attention: He’ll soon learn to focus on you no matter what the distractions.
Treat rewards are allowed during
practice runs and match competitions. Though you can’t reward your dog in the
midst of a trial run, you can certainly give him a jackpot at the end!
If your dog acts up and you’re
left empty-handed, remember that a dog who acts up is still a little stressed.
While having all eyes on you is a bit of a thrill, it can be jarring! Though he
looks like the life of the party, he’s jumbled up inside. Stay calm and
remember these cardinal rules:
- Don’t look at him. Any attention — negative or positive — will egg him on. Let him freak out and keep a watch out of the corner of your eye, but don’t shout or track his movements.
- When your dog calms down, sit down and tie your shoe (or pretend to). If he’s still wary of you, try the “Ouch — I’m really injured” move. Shriek like you’ve been shot. When he looks to see what happened, fall on the ground and clutch your leg in pain. When he runs over, calmly reach up and grasp his collar; then put his leash on and walk off the course. Keep your cool, lower your head, and look at the ground. Don’t reconnect or let him have anyone’s attention for at least five minutes: No attention or treats for that performance.
Warning!
Of all the things that can happen during a trial, having your dog go wild is perhaps the most embarrassing. While controlling one’s temper is a tall order, lashing out at a dog only guarantees more stress and an inhibited agility performance.
Fixing obstacle errors
Your dog may be having trouble
with the obstacles — flying past the contact zones, refusing to do an obstacle,
knocking down bars on the jumps, or choosing to do an obstacle out of order. In
this section, you find out how to get your dog back on track.
Missing contacts
Some dogs dream of flying.
Fast-paced and excitable, these dogs love a sequenced course and race to beat
the clock. Contact zones — on the A-frame, dog walk, and teeter obstacles —
slow them down. While the mindfulness
Tip
If you’re having trouble, try teaching your dog a cue word during your practice runs: a word you can repeat during trials, such as “Easy.” This word can help remind your dog to slow down just enough to nail his targets!
Refusing an obstacle
Dogs always have a perfectly good
reason for refusing an obstacle. If only they could speak! The most common
refusals happen when
- A dog is sick or injured.
- He doesn’t have enough runway space.
- The obstacle is raised too high.
- The signals or directions are unclear.
- He makes an unsteady entry onto a ramp or tunnel.
He’s momentarily confused as to
which obstacle to take.
Many of these faux pas are
handler’s errors, and this is good news. If you’re having these issues, look at
how you can change. No one can learn these steps overnight — it took me a long
while! Find a master to watch and critique you. Listen and learn — your dog
will be so glad you did!
Double check to ensure your dog
is in good physical condition and the obstacles are set to ensure his success:
Nothing is more frustrating for dogs than being pushed beyond their limits.
They want a clear run too!
Knocking down bars
Dogs can get in a bad habit of
knocking down bars as they clear jumps. Some nick the bar with their hind legs,
often not even realizing what they’ve done. Other dogs push off with their hind
legs or bump the bar on the way up. What to do?
First, stay calm when it happens.
If you rush in and give your dog attention — negative or positive — he’ll often
do it again just to get you to come near him. Retrieve your dog, review the
jumping section in Chapter Introducing
Your Dog to Jumps, Tunnels, and Tables, and follow these tips:
- Consider your practice jumping height. While you don’t want to work at competitive heights full time, it’s important that your dog be able to clear this height reliably. Set the jump to this height every fifth run to ensure your dog can clear it.
- If your dog is oblivious to the fact that the bar is coming down, check the bar itself. Is it made of lightweight plastic? Fill the bar with sand, and plug the ends of it. If it’s already weighty, toss some screws in a soda can and tie it to the end of the bar. When your dog hits it, he’ll know.
- Each time your dog knocks down a bar, ignore the mistake and set your sights on teaching him a better approach. Set the bar low to encourage full clearance, and reward him like a newbie. The contrast will make it clear. Slowly raise the bar to its appropriate height.
Going off-course
A dog is off-course when he takes
an obstacle out of sequence or takes one that’s not included in the course. When
this happens, always stay calm. Consider whether your dog is mature enough to
run a sequence.
Another mistake that can lead to
an off-course reaction is a habit that’s created during practice runs — when a
handler either calls or sends his or her dog back over a missed obstacle.
Always approach obstacles from a predetermined direction. If your dog misses an
obstacle, step away and call him to your side. Take him back and start from the
top.
Reining yourself in
Sometimes, you just have to let
your dog go — to run the course, that is. Playing the role of an overbearing
parent causes your dog to become too dependent on you, and it can get you and
your dog disqualified in competition. In this section, I discuss problems with
guiding your dog too closely.
Overhandling
Overhandling is a term
used in competition where the handler uses his or her body or voice to
over-direct a dog or to prevent the dog from making a directional mistake.
Often when dogs are first learning how to sequence a series of obstacles, a
leash is needed to guide them through the equipment. Initial off-leash
maneuvers often involve physical direction too. Hands are used to manipulate
motions, spot efforts, and reassure insecure dogs. Praise and rewards are doled
out on a regular basis.
This newbie involvement can lead
to interactive dependency and insecurities if overused. When dogs aren’t weaned
from this constant reassurance, solo performances can be hard for them to
manage.
In competitions, overhandling may lead to disqualification. Constant interference or a dog’s overdependence on your guidance conveys to all spectators that you aren’t quite ready for this challenge. Don’t push yourself; don’t pressure your dog. Review the weaning steps in Chapters Introducing
Your Dog to Jumps, Tunnels, and Tables and Teaching
the A-Frame, Dog Walk, Teeter, and Weave Poles to ready yourself for a complete course run-through.
Blocking
To envision a blocking move,
imagine a dog racing out of the tunnel and having two equally distant obstacle
choices. Instead of guiding him with a command or signal, the handler simply
stands in front of the off-obstacle’s entry path. That’s blocking — it’s
fudging with a capital “F.”
Blocking is another form of
overinteraction. Though slightly more subtle than overhandling, no one can fool
a judge. If practiced too often, a dog will grow mindfully aware of the body
position of his handler and use it to determine his course.
by Sarah Hodgson
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