Showing posts with label Pomeranians. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pomeranians. Show all posts
Ten Cool Activities to Do with Your Pom
In This Chapter
- Taking some time for just you and your Pom
- Chasing the fun with other people and dogs
Dealing with Doggy Delinquents
In This Chapter
- Understanding the limits of punishment
- Helping a dog overcome his fears
- Calming the anxious, energetic, or barking pup
- Working with your Pom’s aggressive tendencies
- Dealing with nuisance behaviors
Mastering Manners and Basic Commands
In This Chapter
- Communicating to your Pom
- Figuring out your Pom’s communication system
- Motivating your pup to achieve
- Training the basic commands
- Adding some tricks to the repertoire
Saving the Carpets: Housetraining
In This Chapter
- Setting the stage: The when and where of housetraining
- Managing the gotta-go schedule
- Defining the den
- Ready, set, go!
- When training comes up short: Special challenges
Traveling with a Pom Pilot (Or Leaving Him in Others’ Care)
In This Chapter
- Making a list, checking it twice: Must-have items for a trip
- Adjusting for your pup’s needs: Safety, temp, and comfort
- Gaining altitude: Your pup in flight
- Treating the motel well
- Choosing a caregiver when your pup must stay home
Doctoring Your Dog
In This Chapter
- Skimming the surface: Skin problems
- Avoiding (or stopping) worm infestations
- Reading your Pom’s body language for specific problems
- Knowing your Pom’s chances for hereditary challenges
Maintaining Your Pom’s Health and Happiness
In This Chapter
- Setting the course: Regular checkups and vaccinations
- Standing guard on your dog’s health
- Dealing with worms and pests
- Making life simple for you and your Pom: Castration and spaying
- Easing your Pom into senior-citizenship
Primping Your Pom
In This Chapter
- Caring for hair 101
- Gently managing eye problems
- Knowing the ins and outs of ear care
- Taking the bite out of dental problems
- Mastering the art of Pom pedicures
- Leaving it to a pro: Groomers
Eating Out of the Pom of Your Hand
In This Chapter
- Realizing the challenges of feeding toy dogs
- Understanding nutrients and ingredients
- Deciphering dog food labels
- Taking the fat off or putting it on
- Feeding dogs with food-sensitive disorders
Starting Off on the Right Paw: The First Few Days
In This Chapter
- Making the rounds with family, friends, and other animals
- Just say “Ahhhh”: First visit to the vet
- Fitting in: Crates, cars, and schedules
- Training through play
- Curbing bad habits early
You never get a second chance to
make a first impression! And this is your big chance to make a good impression
on both a future best friend and a beloved family member. Gulp!
Now that I’ve put the pressure on
you, you can calm down. In fact, that’s my number-one piece of advice for these
first days: Keep it calm — your new Pom has enough excitement just meeting you and
your family. But beyond that, I have a few tips that may come in handy when
it’s time for your pup to meet new people, go new places, and become a proper
member of your family.
Getting to Know Your Pom
A Pomeranian puppy makes new
attachments quickly, and even adult Poms begin to think of their new owners as
family within a couple of days. For your new dog’s sake, keep visitors to a
minimum for the first day. After all, if a parade of people pop in, how can he
figure out which ones really matter?
Keeping the newness of it all in mind
During these first days you’ll
help your new dog form friendships with other family members and get used to
her new surroundings.
Research shows that these tasks
are significant because at about 12 weeks of age, she naturally becomes more
hesitant about novel situations and strangers. The more situations she’s
exposed to before then, the fewer challenges remain that can wig her out.
Remember
With socialization, it’s the quality — not the quantity — that counts. As with all things puppy, you need to introduce new experiences gradually, never pushing your pup past the point that she’s scared. Keep these points in mind:
- Your children are no doubt anxious to play with the new dog, so make sure they don’t get too rambunctious and that the puppy has time to herself. Too much harassment and she may start hiding whenever they show up.
- The same is true for her new canine and feline family. Have all pets play inside at first or in a confined area outside so they can’t run out of control and out of your reach.
Bonding with humans big and small
Before you start introducing your
Pom to other people, at home or away, keep in mind and share these strategies,
which can make introductions go much more smoothly:
- Hold your dog in your arms. This way new faces don’t tower over your Pom as people greet him, and you don’t have to ask them to sit on the ground!
- Keep people from rushing up or creeping slowly up to him. Rushing is startling and creeping is, well, creepy. Creeping is actually too much like stalking and can unnerve some dogs.
- Remind strangers not to look the dog in the eye when they say hello. To a dog, that direct stare is threatening. A perfect way to scare the bejeebers out of your Pom is to have somebody creep up to him, bend over, stare him in the eye, and then reach out to pet his head. Be prepared to clean the pee off the floor.
If the dog’s uneasy, the person can face sideways, which is less threatening, or sit on the floor and wait for the dog to approach. When your dog’s at ease, the person can gently rub the pup’s chest or neck.
- Encourage people to rub your dog under the chin or on the chest instead of petting him on the head. Like humans, dogs don’t like being pounded on the head.
At home
Help your pup with these gradual
steps in socialization:
Tip
- Plan for your puppy to meet only one or two people at a time. These people must be gentle and nonthreatening. You can have them offer him a treat to cement the friendship — sort of the opposite of what people tell their children (“Hey, little dog, want a piece of candy?”).
- Stage a puppy party for people and your dog. Invite people to your house and, one at a time, have them greet your puppy. They should walk up to you and your dog casually and then nonchalantly put out a hand for your dog to sniff.
Near home and beyond
For now, avoid places where other
dogs congregate. But after your veterinarian assures you that your puppy’s
vaccinations are sufficient, try to take your pup to as many places as
possible.
Make each exposure a good
experience by doing the following:
- Go for a walk around the block and see who you bump into. You can try to direct a meeting by picking up your dog and perhaps handing the stranger a treat to give to your pup.
- Introduce your Pom to children, especially if you have no children at home. The best plan is to avoid random children; instead, invite only children that are calm and obedient to visit your home and meet the puppy.
Warning!
- Avoid the all-dogs-like-me person. If you meet this person, tell him your appendix just burst and then scurry away.
- Explore public places (like sidewalks, parks, and some outdoor cafes) that welcome dogs. Avoid taking your puppy to a crowd with the idea of her meeting lots of people at once. She can be stepped on, and people can terrify her if they all try to reach and pet her.
Going to the Vet for Your Pom’s First Checkup
Plan to take your new puppy for a
health check within a couple of days of bringing her home. In fact, your
contract with the breeder may specify a required time frame for this checkup to
keep the health guarantee in place.
Checking out the doctor
Your Pom’s life may depend on
your selection of a veterinarian, so — next to you — this person may be the
most important one in your pup’s life. You can ask for recommendations from
local breeders, kennel-club members, or trainers, but of course, you’ll ultimately
want to see for yourself by making an appointment.
Take note of how well the
veterinarian listens to your concerns:
- Does he communicate clearly?
- Does he treat your dog gently?
- Does he regularly treat Poms or toy dogs?
Ask how many of these patients he has and whether he feels comfortable doing surgery on them. Chances are he has quite a few such patients, but it never hurts to ask.
I like to schedule some routine
appointments at first so I can check out the veterinarian. But you can simply
ask to visit and tour the facilities. If you don’t like one clinic, try
another.
Making the first appointment a success
This first visit has more
importance than the basic checkup; it should be a time for your puppy to
discover that going to the veterinary clinic is fun. To make the most of this
visit for you, the pup, and your veterinarian, keep the following suggestions
in mind:
Remember
- Bring any health records the breeder provided and a stool sample (from the Pom, of course!) so the doctor can check for intestinal parasites.
- Use a travel bag or small crate to take your dog to the clinic.
- Keep her close to you in the waiting room and keep her from barking at other animals. They may have serious illnesses, and their owners will appreciate the courtesy.
Bring favorite treats so the
veterinarian and staff can give them to your dog. It’s always best if the first
exam doesn’t include needles or cavity searches. If an injection is necessary,
ask the doctor to replace the syringe (after drawing the vaccine) with a
tiny-gauge needle before sticking the dog. This way the injection hardly hurts at
all!
This first appointment allows the
veterinarian to diagnose any common puppyhood problems (like worms) and discuss
your Pom’s vaccination schedule and heartworm prevention regime.
The veterinarian also
- Listens to your pup’s heart to make sure she doesn’t have a potentially serious problem
- Weighs your puppy
- Checks your Pom’s teeth and gums
- Probably examines ears and eyelids
- Perhaps checks the knees for early signs of patellar luxation
- May give vaccinations
Remember
Vaccinations are a medical procedure. The veterinarian must determine the schedule of shots according to your Pom’s body and how it works even though it may not seem like the most convenient schedule to the owner.
Before leaving the clinic, be
sure to ask about heartworm and flea prevention (if the doctor hasn’t mentioned
it) and schedule an appointment at the appropriate time for your Pom’s next vaccinations.
Tip
Consider just visiting the clinic’s waiting room sometimes so the pup has experiences there where nothing bad happens. Sure, she has to get shots sometimes, but drop in another time just to say “Hi.” The staff will appreciate your efforts to make their patient comfortable, as this casual visit makes working with her easier on the staff in the long run.
If you’re acquiring an adult Pom,
schedule a checkup for her within a few days of welcoming her home. At this
initial check, the veterinarian performs all the checks that a puppy gets at
its first visit plus probably a heartworm check.
Acclimating the Pup to His New Life
Although meeting people and other
animals is one of the most important missions you have for your puppy these
first weeks, it’s not the only one. This is also the best time to introduce
your puppy to new experiences. Do you plan for him to ride in a car?
Stay in a crate? Go to the
groomer or veterinarian? Learn some tricks? What else? Make a list and try to
expose him to each situation now.
Making a crate feel like home sweet home
Your Pom may have already spent
some time in a crate. With luck, he has had good experiences. But more often
his experiences have been limited to the trip from the breeders and perhaps his
first night away from home, both kind of scary.
Remember
Take time now to acclimate him to the crate. The following are a few good reasons:
- The crate provides a secure place where you don’t worry about your Pom.
- Crates provide a safe means of car travel and a safe haven when staying with friends or at hotels.
- A crate-trained dog fares better if he has to be crated at the veterinary hospital or needs bed rest at home while recuperating.
- Crates help in housetraining. (I knew you’d like that one!)
Getting her to like the crate
As with all new routines, getting
your Pom to look at the crate as something other than a holding bin will take
some time and deliberate moves. The following steps can help you achieve
success:
1. Leave the door open and toss some treats just inside the door at first.
Gradually toss them farther and farther inside after she’s stepping in to get them.
2. Toss in a larger bone she may want to chew on. Tie the treat to the inside of the crate if she tries to take it outside.
Now she has to stay inside if she wants the goods! You also can use a toy filled with treats.
3. Untie the treat and close the door while she feasts, only for a few seconds at first. Open it as soon as she finishes.
4. Keep repeating this routine.
Within a day or so she should be running to the crate as soon as she sees you with treats. If you want, you can now introduce a cue like Bedtime! for her to go in the crate.
5. Gradually extend her time in the crate, always giving her chew toys or interactive toys to occupy her.
6. Try to let her out before she has a chance to get bored or vocal. If she begins to protest, wait until she’s momentarily quiet before letting her out.
7. Continue to extend the time she must be quiet before you release her.
How long will it take? For some
dogs, about a day. For others, a millennium. Every dog is different, but the
earlier you start, the better your chances of it going well.
Some words of caution
The crate is one of the safest
spots your puppy can be, but you must do your part.
- Remove your Pom’s collar while he’s in his crate. Collars, especially choke collars or collars with tags, can get caught in crate wires and strangle the puppy.
- Discourage chewing on the wire by spraying it with anti-chew preparations and by making sure your pup has no issues with being crated (see the training steps in the previous section). If your puppy tends to chew on the wire, he can get his jaw or tooth caught.
Warning!
Overuse can create serious behavioral problems. Think of the crate as your child’s crib — a safe place to sleep but not a place for your pup to grow up or be punished.
Contrary to popular opinion, crates don’t seem to make young pups feel more secure. In fact, crated pups (especially those not already familiar with the crate) tend to cry even more than uncrated pups when separated. If he cries, try leaving your pup in an exercise pen or small, safe room when you first start teaching him to be home alone. You can leave a crate with an open door accessible to him.
Encouraging independence and relieving anxiety
As important as socialization is
for your Pom, her acceptance of being alone is equally vital for her
well-being. Don’t put this step off just because it’s not as much fun as her
other lessons.
When you understand your puppy’s
anxiousness and your role in helping her feel secure, you’re more
prepared for the job ahead of you. Like her other training, this process takes
time, patience, and a plan.
It’s in the genes . . . and the screams
Dogs are very social animals.
From an evolutionary viewpoint, a puppy alone is vulnerable, not likely to
survive unless he does whatever he can do to get back to his family. A puppy
that finds himself all alone gives out a distress vocalization (okay, a scream)
which brings his mother running.
Without his mother (or his
caregiver, now that he’s in your home), a puppy keeps crying until he’s too
exhausted to continue. But exhaustion is not the same as being okay. He begins
to associate being crated or left alone with being frightened, and this
distress is likely to build on itself, creating a lifelong problem.
Your puppy is seeking security.
Comfort him from the beginning to prevent him from becoming so stressed in the
first place. Then, when you begin encouraging his independence, you need to
know how long to leave him as well as how to leave him.
Leaving, but just for a while
Your pup needs to understand that
when you leave her you always return. She builds this confidence by being left
alone for very short times that gradually lengthen to longer times. Try these
steps:
1. Start by occasionally leaving the room for just a minute before popping back in.
2. Move to a longer time period only when your pup seems content and calm at the current time period.
Remember
The object is to return before your pup gets restless or anxious.
3. Gradually build up to 10, 20, and 30 minutes away from your pup.
Warning!
The biggest barrier to success is leaving the pup alone too long. Nobody ever got over being scared of being deserted by being ignored. Be patient, and go slowly. You’ll make much more progress if you return while she’s still calm at 10 minutes than if you wait until she’s having a fit at 11 minutes.
How do I leave thee?
The fact that you leave and
return isn’t a newsworthy event, so do it without ceremony — no long good-byes
or joyous reunions!
Remember
Distressed puppies are too upset to eat or play. However, giving your pup something to occupy and comfort him while you’re gone is useful.
- Mirrors and soft cuddly toys seem most effective at calming separated puppies.
Try soft, warm, dog-shaped toys that even have a heartbeat, simulating the pup’s littermates.
- Interactive toys that challenge your puppy to dislodge sticky food treats are good distractions for bored, but not distressed, puppies.
- The buddy system (that is, having another dog or cat around) may help your Pom, but don’t rely on it. Your other pet may not always be there to babysit.
Getting used to riding in the car
Your puppy may have had a couple
of car-riding experiences so far — to the veterinarian for shots (oh great!)
and to her new home with you (oh no!). Chances are, neither ride was much fun.
Combine those thrills with the fact that lots of puppies get carsick, and your Pom
may think the car is one awful contraption.
Tip
Your job is to make your pup associate the car with good times. Try these suggestions:
- Go for very short rides to fun places before nausea and diarrhea can even begin to churn. For some dogs this means opening the car door, setting the puppy inside, driving 20 feet, and getting out to play — or to let him puke. (Hint: If he pukes, you’ve gone too far.)
- Check your driving habits. The more often the speed changes, the more nauseous your puppy gets. If you live in hilly country, try to maintain a constant speed up and down hills.
- Bring the puppy to the front of the vehicle. Although a crate is usually safest, riding in a crate can increase motion sickness in some dogs. Looking out of a window can help alleviate some cases of motion sickness. Experiment with somebody holding your pup — and a lot of towels and plastic sheeting. (Sounds like a bad joke, doesn’t it!)
- Give your Pom gingersnap cookies; they may help alleviate carsickness.
- Ask your veterinarian about motion sickness pills for your dog as a last resort.
Enjoying Playtime
Play is one of the reasons we
have dogs. Sure, it cements the humancanine bond and all that stuff. But the
real reason is that it gives us an excuse to act like idiots. You don’t want to
pass up that chance.
Play also provides a safe arena
in which puppies can pick up new behaviors and develop self control.
Engaging the hesitant Pom
If your puppy’s hesitant about
playing, start with cooperative instead of competitive games. Such games
include
- Learning fun tricks
- Playing fetch
- Searching for hidden treats
- Playing alongside you with toys that squeak or are easy to manipulate
These games can gradually build
to more competitive games; for example, cat toys dangled on a string may become
a low-key tug game.
Outsmarting the push-and-shove Pom
Some Poms are pushy when they
play. They not only prefer more competitive games but also try to control them!
Conventional wisdom says that such games give your dog too much control, but you
can play them and still call the shots.
For example, if a game of fetch
ends up a game of keep-away or tug of war, use it to encourage cooperation.
Take these simple steps:
1. Come up with a game-over word, like Give.
2. Teach your Pom (in an enclosed area) that Give! Means Trade! because you trade him a treat for whatever he has.
3. Walk away and ignore him if he refuses to give up the prize.
This game becomes a handy command
for around the house — for those times he’s playing keep-away with your $20
bill or new package of razor blades.
Drawing the line with your nipping Pom
Although many new dog owners
worry that their little puppy is a budding Cujo, most puppies grow out of
nipping on their own. You want to make sure, though, that play stays fun and
that she stops nipping when you request. Those barracuda teeth can hurt!
Play it cool
Puppies react roughly with one
another, escalating their fighting until the going gets so rough that one of
them cries “Uncle!” and leaves. Most pups quickly figure out that if they bite
another dog too hard, it’s game-over.
You can reinforce clean fun with
your pup with the same tactics.
1. When your pup chomps down on you, yelp sharply and withdraw from him, standing still and ignoring him for 20 seconds or so.
2. If he stops nipping and instead behaves, quit your statue act and give him a treat.
Because your yelp may encourage
him to play even harder, you may have to experiment with several versions
before your dog realizes you’re serious. (The neighbors are going to love
this!)
Focus on the positive
Nipping is fun! So give her
something to do that’s equally fun. Reward her for not nipping by giving her a
toy to carry, a ball to chase, a chewie to chew, or a tuggy to tug. If she
knows a trick, reward her for doing it.
You also have to do your part to
minimize the nipping in the first place:
- Avoid wriggling your fingers in front of the puppy’s face and then yanking them out of reach as she lunges for them.
- Keep from shuffling your slippered feet around on the rug while your puppy pounces on them. Well, okay, that is kind of fun, but it can lead to her biting your ankles.
- Convince the rest of your family and any visitors to discourage puppy nipping.
Warning!
Rarely, the biting is not in play, so it’s important for you, as the owner, to spot the signs of true, aggressive biting. Snarling, with ears back, is a sign of possible trouble — especially when combined with protecting food or assets, being picked up, or being told to move.
If you’re still concerned, see
Chapter Dealing
with Doggy Delinquents, where I discuss aggression.
Remember
Growling is a natural part of a pup’s playful nipping. Did you know that what seems like a growl may actually be a laugh? Dog laughter is a rough sound made only when exhaling, and it’s typical of dogs playing competitively such as in tugging games. Unfortunately many people misinterpret the sound as a growl and even punish their dogs — just for laughing.
Laying Down the House Rules
One of the best parts of adding a
Pom to your family is spoiling him rotten. After all, you’re not going to
undermine his chances at becoming a business tycoon or college graduate. And
he’s hardly equipped physically to be a canine serial killer. Who cares whether
he’s spoiled, right?
Not quite. You don’t want your
friends to start avoiding you because of that obnoxious brat that’s always
biting at their heels, and you don’t want your own life and household taken
over by a furry Napoleon.
Explaining the laws of the loveseat
Most Pom owners welcome their
pups on the furniture, but even little Poms have muddy paws, chew holes in the
cushions, and leave fur on the furniture. If you don’t want her on the
furniture, you can
- Get furniture that’s too high for her to jump up on.
- Teach her early on that her place is elsewhere.
Remember
You can always let her up when she’s older, but you can’t easily ban her after she’s enjoyed the lap of luxury.
Getting up on the furniture is no
cause for getting down on your pup. Simply follow these guidelines:
- Lift her down to a place of her own. (It has to be a really good place to compete with that sofa and its view, though.) A deluxe dog bed in an equally entertaining spot that has a good vantage point should get her attention.
- Train her to go to that place on cue by rewarding her when she goes there on her own. As she starts to eagerly run to her bed, give her the cue Place! and reward her after she’s there.
Warning!
If your Pom sneaks onto forbidden furniture, it’s not the end of the world. In other words, forget the booby traps, shock pads, or rough handling.
A far less traumatic dissuader is
newspaper, aluminum foil, or another uncomfortable surface on the furniture.
Most dogs quickly decide their own bed is preferable! (Then again you can just
give in — after all, a Pom was meant to share your sofa!)
Keeping his chompers on chewies, not chairs (or shoes!)
Like babies, puppies chew when
they’re teething. But unlike babies, they keep it up when they’re well past
teething. And just when you think you’re safe, they seem to go through a super
chewing stage near the age of 1 year. They chew papers, cushions, chair legs, rugs,
shoes — pretty much anything of value. What to do?
The best-laid plans . . .
You can meet with some success if
you combine the following moves:
- Keep your important, valuable items out of sight as much as you can.
- Watch your pup as much as you can.
- Slather horrible-tasting products like cayenne pepper or commercially available bitter tastes on those tempting items that you can’t move out of his reach.
- Wrap aluminum foil around your chair legs. Your puppy won’t find it very enticing to bite . . . but your guests will ask who your decorator is.
- Try to guide him toward chewing more acceptable objects. (See the next section for ideas on this.)
Choose his chews carefully
The kinds of objects your puppy
chews on at an early age tend to be his favorites the rest of his life. When
you find your pup chewing on your belongings, simply take the object from him
and replace it with a more acceptable object. Here are some suggestions:
- Make sure the new object doesn’t resemble items you don’t want him to chew — old shoes, socks, stuffed animals (if you have children who collect them), carpet remnants, and so on.
- Try rotating his toys so he only gets a few at a time. Every few days put one set away and replace them with some other toys. This way he has the excitement of new toys every few days.
- Engage him with interactive toys like the ones he has to work at to extract food. Fill these with bones, soft cheese, canned dog food, or peanut butter, and then freeze them to make them last even longer.
Warning!
Punishing him does little good, and you can make matters worse if you punish him right when he proudly brings you the trashed treasure. Congratulations! You’ve just trained him to take your treasures to a secret location so you never get them back!by D.Caroline Coile,Ph.D.
Coming Home
In This Chapter
- The first journey: Bringing your Pom home
- Connecting with the family
- Surviving the first night — you and your Pom!
Congratulations! It’s a Pom! The
big day is finally here. You’ve Pom-proofed your house and filled the puppy
basket with necessities — you’re ready to welcome your new addition!
But wait! You have a few more
preparations to make before you’re ready to roll. For example, you need a way
to comfortably transport your new addition and a game plan for introducing her
to the new house, family, and other pets, if you have them.
Your happy homecoming will be
exciting, but you still want to manage that excitement. Remember, your little
Pom may be more than a little anxious about leaving the only home she’s ever
known and saying good-bye to Mom and the other kids. You want her first impression
of her new home and family to be a happy occasion, not a terrifying
misadventure.
With the suggestions in this
chapter, you can make this event a good memory. I provide you with solid advice
on the first trip home, the first hours around new faces and surroundings, and
. . . the first night alone.
Making that First Trip Safe and Sound
You’ve picked out your Pom; now
it’s time to pick him up and bring him home. Whether it’s a trip across town or
from a neighboring state, plan to coordinate your pickup with the breeder.
Scheduling the pickup time
Schedule your arrival time early
in the day; you’re likely to be at the breeder’s a while and you want to get
home well before your pup’s bedtime. The breeder will want to give you care
instructions (feeding, grooming, and early training) and make sure you understand
them. These guidelines may seem overwhelming, and you may end up feeling
frazzled. If only there was a book about Pomeranians for new owners that could
help you know what to expect. Oh, wait! You’re reading it, aren’t you? So don’t
worry — you’ll do fine on the first day.
Remember
Be sure to confirm your arrival time with the breeder so he doesn’t feed the puppy right beforehand. This timing should lessen the possibility of car sickness or nervous diarrhea. Yuck!
Tip
If you work during the week, arrange to get your new dog on a Friday or just before your vacation time. That way you can spend plenty of time with him and be able to nap when he naps. With any luck, you won’t feel like a walking zombie from sleep deprivation on Monday morning.
Preparing to drive Miss Daisy: What to bring
Ready to hop in the car and
cruise to the breeder’s? Not so fast! That car may not look — or smell — so
pretty when you get home unless you bring some stuff with you to make the trip
go a little more smoothly. And chances are your little one doesn’t have much car-riding
experience.
Here are the necessities for your
trip:
- Another adult: Even a good friend may not be so thrilled if you pack her in with the rest of the gear, so save the front seat for her. She can ride along with you and lend an extra pair of hands. You’ll be grateful for the help if the puppy starts fussing.
- Carrier: Just as a new baby doesn’t ride home from the hospital in your arms, neither should a new puppy — or even an older dog. Regardless of the length of the trip, bring a dog carrier with a towel in the bottom. Bring extra towels in case of accidents.
- Cleanup supplies: Some rinse-free shampoo and paper towels are also handy just in case he has an accident and gets it all over himself.
- Drinking water: Bring some bottled water or an empty bottle that you can fill with water from the breeder’s home. Changes in water can give some dogs upset stomachs. Why risk it in the car?
- Money: When you head to the breeder’s place, don’t forget your money! Unless the breeder has indicated a personal check is acceptable, bring cash or a cashier’s check.
- Toys: Be sure to bring something (a chew toy or even a stuffed animal for cuddling) to occupy him.
- Food: If the trip will last a couple of hours or longer, bring some of the same food he’s been eating. Hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) is a concern in these little ones (see Chapter Eating Out of the Pom of Your Hand for more on this), so don’t put off a meal too long just because you’re traveling. Ask the breeder ahead of time what your dog has been eating; either buy a small bag of it in advance or ask the breeder whether you can buy a few days’ supply from him.
Have your pup’s first meal waiting at your home. Even if you don’t have a long ride, chances are the breeder won’t feed her right before she leaves for your house.
Note: Even if you’ve selected the ultimate canine ambrosia, start by feeding the same food the breeder has been feeding her. She’s facing enough changes without having to cope with a new food that may upset her tummy — and your housetraining plans. If you plan to switch her to another food eventually, be sure to do it gradually. Abrupt changes in diet can lead to puppy diarrhea.
- Collar and leash: Bring a secure leash and collar just in case you have to take him out. You don’t want him bolting away, falling down a storm drain, hiding under a parked car, or doing any of the hundreds of dangerous tricks a loose puppy can do. But be forewarned; he probably doesn’t know how to walk on a leash. Don’t get your hopes up for much walking or relieving.
Tip
If you’ve planned an overnight trip to collect your Pom, read about traveling with a Pom in Chapter Traveling with a Pom Pilot (Or Leaving Him in Others’ Care). Bring a playpen or exercise pen and place plastic sheeting beneath it.
Remember
Your new pup may not look like the pup you chose a few weeks ago. If you’re concerned, say so. Good breeders would never switch puppies on you, so if you’ve chosen a trustworthy breeder (check out Chapter In Search of Your Soul Mate), you don’t have to worry about this scenario. Chances are, your puppy has just changed with age. However, if she no longer looks healthy, ask whether you can come back at a later date to get her. A good breeder doesn’t want you leaving with a sick puppy any more than you do.
When the dog flies home
To collect your dog from the airport, give
yourself plenty of time to locate him.
- If he’s flying air freight, he may go to the air freight office, which may not be part of the main terminal. - If he goes to the baggage pickup, he must be hand carried from the door. (He won’t be placed on the conveyor belt!) Be sure you’re there to meet him, and have identification with you in case you’re asked for it.
He probably messed his shipping crate, so be
ready with extra towels and cleanup supplies. Also bring some scissors to cut
the plastic cable ties that airlines often add for extra security. You can’t
open the crate unless you can cut through those ties. (And try not to look
dangerous while wielding your scissors or knife in the airport!)
Technically, you’re supposed to keep your dog in
the shipping kennel until you’re outside the terminal. Obviously, this
doesn’t work with big dogs, so most airports allow you to take the dog out
right away as long as you don’t abuse the privilege. In other words, keep him
in your arms and on a leash until you get outside. If you find a grassy area,
give him a chance to urinate.
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Managing a Happy Homecoming
As you pull into your driveway,
it hits you — your life will never be the same! You now have a new little one ruling
over your every move. Your household may become a tiny Pom dynasty, but that’s a
small price to pay for Pomeranian pleasures.
Now, did you catch the emphasis
on little, tiny, and small? As tempting as it may be, this is not
the time for a welcome home party with friends and neighbors. Stop a minute and
try to view this from your pup’s low-down-close-to-the-ground perspective: Your
little Pom (whether pup or adult) was driven in a big, unfamiliar car to a big,
unfamiliar house to meet big, unfamiliar people. And there may be some big,
unfamiliar pet mates to boot.
Your new Pom needs to figure out
who’s who and how to be brave in her big, new world. Being greeted by a wall of
noisy new faces, reaching hands, and sniffing noses isn’t going to help. Let her
focus on just you and your family this first day and night.
Gaining a sense of place
Your first goal is to give your
new Pom a sense of place, to become familiar with his surroundings. Keep
distractions (like other people and pets) to an absolute minimum because your
Pom has a lot of sights and smells to process. Consider these suggestions:
- Calm the kids. If you have children, they’ll likely be excited to see the new puppy. But they have to be calm or else wait in another room.
- Secure other animals. Make sure all your other animals are put up.
- Take him to the grass. Introduce your Pom to the spot you’ve decided will be a good bathroom (read more about this in Chapter Saving the Carpets: Housetraining). He probably won’t use it because he has no idea what you want. But at least you’ve given him a chance.
- Show him the Pom-approved spaces. After he’s had a little time to check out the outside bathroom, take him inside and let him loose in the part of the house you’ve designated as Pom friendly (Chapter Prepare to Be Pomerized! has more details on this step).
- Start by introducing him to the places most important to him: his eating area and sleeping area. Put a bit of food in his bowl so he’ll get the idea.
- He may be glad to be out of his crate, so don’t expect him to go back in for a while. He’s also probably curious about this strange new world, if a little scared. But don’t overwhelm him with a tour of the whole house — even if you live in a one-room apartment. Leave something for later!
Tip
Always stay with him as he explores. He may never have been loose in a house before, so he’s a prime candidate for trouble. If he chews on an electric cord, give a harsh warning sound like Ahgt! and remove him from temptation.
Remember
Don’t be surprised if he has an accident inside almost right away. That’s why you want to take him back to the bathroom area several times while he’s looking around. Review your Pom’s gotta-go signs in Chapter Saving the Carpets: Housetraining, and be ready.
Meeting the family
Now that your new Pom has had some
time to begin settling down in her new environment, you can begin introducing
her to the people in your family. If it’s just you and another adult, then you may have accomplished this
mission during the ride home. If you have children, especially young ones,
they’ll need to develop a little care and a lot of calm for your Pom.
Here are a few guidelines for
your kids to follow when they meet the new dog for the first time:
- Patiently take turns holding the new dog. Avoid any fighting over the puppy or any rough handling. Small dogs are fragile, and even the best-intentioned children can end up causing injury.
- Use indoor voices and avoid being too loud around the dog. Screaming with excitement may put the dog on edge.
- Avoid chasing the puppy. It’s hard not to get carried away with a game of chase! But a fun game to the two-legged chasers may feel like a run-for-your-life situation to the chasee.
- Sit on the floor nearer the new dog’s level. The Pom can easily move from one seated person to the next without being dropped or tripping a child. Note: A puppy can trip a toddler, but the toddler’s still big enough to squish the puppy if he falls on her.
This is such an exciting time,
and kids tend to forget all these guidelines when the Pom starts bouncing
around. If you take time to explain that these guidelines help the dog feel
safer and more secure, your children will most likely show care as they meet
the new member of the family.
Tip
Everyone in the house needs to know how to hold a puppy (see Figure 6-1). Always pick the dog up with one hand cradled under her chest (never by her legs, nape of neck, or anywhere else). Then rest the dog against your chest and hold her securely underneath with your other hand.
Saying “Hello” to doggy or kitty
If you have other animal family
members, chances are they’re very curious about the little intruder you’ve
allowed in their home. “Surely,” they think, “you don’t intend to keep that thing
in the house, do you? Woof! Hiss!”
Even if you have abnormally
friendly dogs and cats, oversee these introductions carefully to ensure that
the bigger or rougher animals don’t injure the small Pom. You also want to be
sure the established animals don’t become jealous of the newcomer. If you have
more than one other pet, make these introductions one at a time.
Figure 6-1: How to hold a
Pom correctly.
Meeting dog to dog
The best place for new dogs to
meet is in neutral territory so your resident dog doesn’t start acting uppity
and territorial. You can go to a neighbor’s yard or for a walk side by side —
assuming your puppy will walk on a leash! For meeting one or more other dogs in
the house, place the puppy in his exercise pen or crate before letting the
other dogs into the room, one at a time, to see him. You can also sit and hold
the new Pom on your lap. Note: If your other dog is large, avoid
holding your Pom up above him because dogs have a tendency to jump and grab at
things held up in the air.
Tip
Either separate the dogs by a barrier or have them both on leashes. Some dogs use the barrier as an excuse to start fence fighting, which means acting ferocious as long as something’s between them. If this fighting starts, you can separate the two dogs, place them on leashes, and try again.
Keeping an eye on the dogs’ behaviors
Watch how the resident dog and your newcomer react to one another. A puppy will probably be curious but cautious. Some pups get excited, in which case you need to prevent her from jumping all over the resident dog or from starting a chase-me scene. An older new Pom may be laid back, frightened, or have a devil-may-care attitude — you never know.
Meanwhile, a resident dog may be
curious, approach the puppy, and try to sniff. These are all good signs. Watch
for these other signs that the introduction is going well:
- Your resident dog is sniffing, with ears relaxed or held slightly forward.
- Your resident dog is in a play bow position, with front legs on the floor and butt in the air (see Figure 6-2).
- You can distract your resident dog with a treat.
Some dogs rush up to the new dog,
overwhelming her. Even if the resident dog’s intentions are friendly, the
newcomer can become so frightened that she tries to bolt, which can trigger a
chase response in the other dog. Note: If the resident dog is
bigger, you may have a cops-and-robbers chase scene right in your own home! Don’t
allow any chasing or rushing at this point.
Some dogs approach stiff-legged,
like they do with a strange adult. This response can be appropriate, but after
the dog figures out the newcomer is a youngster, he needs to stop the tough-guy
act and sniff nicely.
Figure 6-2: The play bow
position means a dog is in a good mood.
Warning!
Watch for these trouble signs. You may want to stay close or at least keep the resident dog on a leash:
- Your resident dog is walking stiff-legged.
- Your resident dog is staring intently at the Pom.
- Your resident dog jumps at the Pom without play bowing (see Figure 6-2).
- Your resident dog growls or snarls at the Pom.
Fostering a friendly canine relationship
Try not to rush a new dog’s
relationship with your other dog — they probably won’t become instant buddies.
As they get to know one another during the next week, make sure you lay the
groundwork for a good relationship. Here are a few guidelines:
- Your resident dog is the king or queen and should remain so. This fact means he gets fed before the new dog, gets loved before the new dog, goes through doors before the new dog, and basically gets treated like royalty in comparison. This show of favoritism is tough when you’re so enthralled with the new dog, but the perfect recipe for jealousy is to push the resident dog into the background while you gush over the newcomer.
Warning!
If an older dog has a hard time getting over this jealousy, she may lash out to put the usurper in her place. The reaction is the older dog’s misguided attempt to show you exactly who’s more deserving.
- There’s no need to lock the older dog away whenever the puppy comes out to play. However, allowing the puppy on your lap while you make the older dog stay on the floor isn’t a good idea.
Make the puppy’s presence a sign of good times to come. For example, when the puppy eats all those extra puppy meals, give your older dog a small treat too.
- Puppies often come with a get-out-of-trouble-free pass with older dogs. This apparent liberty means the pup can crawl on them, bite them, and do all sorts of tricks that an adult dog doesn’t allow another adult to do.
Your older dog’s tolerance doesn’t mean she likes that kind of play. Make sure your grown dog has an escape route (perhaps a high sofa she can get on or her own crate) so she can get away from the little pest. And be ready to put the pest up.
Tip
- Allow your adult dog to warn an irritating puppy. In other words, let her growl at times (like an older sibling tells a younger one to leave her alone!). If you don’t allow this response, the dog may tolerate the pesky pup too long and jump the pup — without warning! If your puppy doesn’t heed the warning, help him out by removing him and placing him back in his exercise pen.
- Keep your puppy from eating out of the other dog’s bowl, especially if the other dog is larger. Although you don’t want to encourage food-possessive behavior, it’s a natural reaction when dogs are around other dogs. Until your puppy understands proper etiquette, he needs your help to avoid dumb stunts.
Meeting the cat of the house
Cats rule! Or at least they think
so. Your Pom will probably try to make friends with your cat, but your cat may
have other ideas. Most cats don’t like strangers rushing up to them, especially
ones that lick, nip, and yip. For this reason, have your Pom in a pen or on a
leash when you introduce her to the cat. And make sure the cat has a higher
place to jump to so he can look down and feel superior to this little vermin
you call family (Hrmph!).
Warning!
If the dog starts to chase the cat (or vice versa), put an end to it immediately. If the dog gets too fresh with the cat, the cat’s likely to swipe her with his paw. Don’t punish the cat; just hope the dog is smart enough to need only one lesson.
As with older dogs (see the
previous section “Fostering a friendly canine relationship”), follow this
advice:
- Make sure you don’t give your cat reason to be jealous of the new Pom.
- Heap on the attention and treats to your cat when the puppy’s around.
- Make sure the cat has abundant puppy-free zones in the house.
Settling In on the First Night
You’ve made it through the first
day — your pup is safe in your home, introductions have been made, he has begun
sizing up his new kingdom (inside and out!), and he has some idea of where his next
meal is coming from. Nice job! Just a few more hours and you can say your first
day is really over. This section helps you call it a success by giving you
suggestions for the nighttime challenges.
Starting a routine from the get-go
Just like young children, young
dogs benefit from a bedtime routine. Naturally, the first part of establishing
a routine involves picking a set bedtime for every night. Here’s one to
consider:
1. About 30 minutes before bedtime, feed your young puppy his last meal of the day.
Reduce this to a snack for older puppies.
2. About 20 minutes after your dog eats, take him out to the bathroom.
He must take care of his business before hitting the sack.
3. Take him to his sleeping quarters and settle him inside.
4. Go to bed.
At least, try to go to bed. If your Pom is experiencing some anxiety, read the next section for guidance on what to do next.
5. If he awakens in the middle of the night, carry him out to the potty place again.
This is not a time for playing. Give him a few minutes and return him to bed. Even better, set an alarm clock for the middle of the night so you, not the puppy, decide when he goes out. No fair hitting the snooze!
This cycle may repeat throughout
the night, but it really does get better!
Calming those first-night jitters
When the first night falls, you
place your pup in her crate (see the previous section for the steps that
precede this and Chapter Prepare
to Be Pomerized! for more on the crate), say “G’night,” turn out the
lights, and all’s well. Right? Maybe. Scared and lonely, a Pom pup does what
most pups do in that situation: She screams and cries in an attempt to be reunited
with her family.
Remember
Your Pom puppy is coping with a situation you can’t even imagine for a human baby — she’s suddenly removed from her family and home, the two elements that have made her feel secure her entire life. This situation is far less traumatic if the breeder separates the puppies for increasing lengths of time before they leave, but this preparation may not alleviate the sudden stress of a new home.
Even older or pre-owned Poms are
nervous in a new setting. After all, how would you like to find yourself
suddenly spending the night in a stranger’s house? Try these suggestions:
- Give your Pom a place he can call his own — a crate, bed, or special corner of the couch — to help him feel at home.
- A treat or chewie can help keep him in place and convince him this new place is pretty neat!
Tip
You may have been told to ignore your wailing puppy so you don’t spoil or reward her for crying. But what does that really teach her? Only that in the most frightening situation she’s ever encountered, nobody’s there to help her — no matter what she does. Her real mother would never treat her that way. Some dog behaviorists now believe this traditional advice may contribute to separation anxiety (see Chapter Dealing with Doggy Delinquents) in adulthood.
This new attitude doesn’t mean
you spend the rest of your life rushing in at the slightest cry, offering your
dog a floorshow or a buffet. It simply means that you take her out of the
crate, attend to her basic needs, comfort her, and place her back in the crate,
much as you would a crying baby. (Okay, so the crate’s not a good visual for a
baby, but you get the idea.)
You’ve already decided on
sleeping quarters for your puppy in a place not too far from your family
activities (Chapter Prepare
to Be Pomerized! covers this topic). But if that choice means she’s all
alone in a remote part of the house at night, it can get awfully lonely over
there! You may have to amend your plans. The easiest solution is to bring her sleeping
quarters into your bedroom, at least for a few nights (and with your spouse’s
approval of course!).
Warning!
What about your Pom sleeping on your bed? This isn’t a good idea, mostly because of safety concerns. Consider these possibilities:
- A Pomeranian puppy is so small you can roll onto him in your sleep.
- Even if you’re a light sleeper, he can still fall off the bed.
- The bed may be so large that he feels comfortable making one corner his personal bathroom — bad for your bed sheets, your sleep, and his housetraining.
If you want to hold him for a
while as he drifts off to sleep, fine, but then carefully place him in his own
bed for the night. If you sleep alone, you can place the crate on the bed. This
way you can stick your fingers in it so he can gain some comfort from you.
by D.Caroline Coile,Ph.D.