In This Chapter
- Getting into a good mind-set for riding
- Taking riding lessons
- Mounting your horse easily
- Understanding riding (and post-ride) basics
- Coping with equine misbehavior
Something amazing happens when a
human climbs aboard the back of a horse. If the rider knows how to communicate
with the horse, and if the horse is receptive, the resulting experience can be
magical. Achieving this oneness of horse and rider requires hard work. Popular
culture images make riding a horse look like a piece of cake, but it takes
months of practice before you have a sense of what you’re doing.
It’s never too late to develop
riding skills. With plenty of hard (albeit fun) work, you can become as
efficient a rider as any of those cowboy movie stars. But you have to start
somewhere — like this chapter.
Preparing Yourself Mentally
Riding is more than just a
physical activity — it’s a mental one, too. You need to use your brain for
riding, probably even more than your body, and that means understanding your
role as a rider on an intellectual as well as an emotional level. Read on to
see what we mean.
Beating your fear
If you are asking, “What fear?”
right about now, then good for you. You’re probably one of those brave souls
who has no qualms about getting up on a half-ton animal and trusting him with
your life. But more than likely, you’re one of the great majority of beginning
adult riders who finds the notion of riding a horse a bit scary.
Remember
Being afraid to ride is okay, as long as fear doesn’t keep you from trying. We feel confident that if you follow the advice in this book, you’ll soon discover that your fears are unfounded and that riding a good horse is one of the most relaxing and enjoyable things anyone can do.
If you have a nagging reluctance,
know that the more your riding skills increase, the more confident you’ll feel
on a horse’s back. Remember, human beings have been riding horses for the past
4,000 years, and our species still survives!
Acknowledging your role as the leader
Before getting up on a horse for
the first time (or if you’ve already been on a horse, make it before the first
time you do it after reading this chapter), you need to have a basic understand
of what riding is all about.
Remember
The key to understanding why horses let humans ride them is leadership. Horses are herd animals that seek a leader in any social situation. Generally speaking, human beings have managed to convince the equine species that humans are worthy of that leadership position. So when a human gets up on a horse’s back and tells that horse what to do, the horse obeys because he views the rider as his leader. (See Chapter Understanding Horses from Head to Hoof for more about the horse’s psyche.)
This scenario works only when the
rider has the leadership qualities that the horse expects. If a rider gets up
on a horse without a clue as to what to do and how to do it, the horse quickly
senses those lacking skills and takes over the leadership role.
Taking Riding Lessons First
Have you ever ridden a horse that
ran away with you, tried to roll on you, rubbed you against a tree, or refused
to move as soon as you got on? If not, you probably know someone who has.
Unfortunately, many first-time riders have this kind of experience, and it
sours them on horses forever. However, if they had taken riding lessons before
they tried to go out on their own, their experiences may have been much
better.
Remember
We can’t overemphasize the necessity for taking formal riding lessons before you go out and get yourself a horse or start riding regularly on your own. You probably wouldn’t dream of going scuba diving without first taking lessons or doing something as benign as golfing without finding out the rules of the game. With horses, rider training is doubly important, because you need to understand the rules and develop the skills before you go it alone.
Where can you get lessons? You
have a number of options:
- Commercial stables: Many commercial riding establishments offer riding lessons, usually in several disciplines. These facilities aren’t hard to find — all you need to do is look in the phone book under “riding academies.” Before you sign up, visit the stable and observe the lessons. Talk to the instructors and ask them about their experiences. Look for certified riding instructors with experience showing horses and tutoring clients who are successful in the show ring. Certified instructors have successfully completed a riding instructor certification program (see the Appendix). If you like the stable and instructors, sign up for one lesson. If the experience is good, plan to take at least several months worth of lessons.
- Horseback vacations: The term dude ranch conjures up images of city slickers slumped in western saddles, timidly hanging onto the saddle horn as their horses pick their way over steep mountain trails. But these days, dude ranches and other horseback-oriented vacation spots do more than give trail rides to those with only a casual interest in riding. You can take formal riding lessons at many of these places, provided you pick a facility that caters to beginners. A horseback vacation spot actually is a great place to get started, because it not only combines a fun atmosphere with training but also provides you with one or two weeks of intensive riding. You can follow up this instruction with more lessons when you get home (see Chapter Riding for the Fun of It for more details on riding vacations).
- Riding clubs: Horse lovers tend to congregate, which is good news for neophytes who take an interest in horses. Although clubs that exist specifically to teach newcomers usually are aimed at children, they actually offer opportunities for adults, too. One example is the Pony Club, an excellent U.S. and British organization that teaches children (most of whom do not own their own horses) horsemanship and riding skills. If you and your child want to ride horses, sign your child up with your local Pony Club chapter and volunteer as an adult helper (see the Appendix for information on contacting the Pony Club). If you have a child of college age, consider getting involved with an intercollegiate or college riding program.
- An equine expert: If you live in a small town or a remote area, you may have trouble finding a commercial riding stable or riding club nearby. In that case, try to find someone locally who can help you with your riding. Ask other horse owners in your town to help you locate an experienced horse person, such as a breeder, an equine veterinarian, or someone who shows extensively. Ask this expert whether you can hire him or her to teach you to ride. Most horse people are more than happy to help newcomers to the hobby provided those newcomers have a sincere and genuine interest. (Flip to Chapter Preparing to Make Your Purchase for tips on finding an equine expert.)
Warning!
The things you shouldn’t do include these don’ts:
- Don’t go to a stable that rents out horses by the hour without first receiving riding instruction. Remember those friends of yours who’ve been on the back of a runaway horse and rubbed off on trees? Most likely, it happened in this type of place. Owners at most rent-by-hour stables allow the horses to develop bad attitudes and dangerous habits. Such horses are bad news for beginning riders.
- Don’t let an inexperienced friend give you lessons on his or her horse. If your friend is an experienced rider who owns a suitable horse for beginning riders, then by all means, ask your friend for help. But if your friend has only been riding a short time and has a horse he or she can barely control, politely decline the offer and opt for one of the alternatives we mention earlier.
The amount of time necessary for
you to get the hang of riding depends on you. Some people pick it up faster than
others. When you are to the point where you feel like you can competently
control your horse, inside and outside of the arena, you know enough to begin
doing some riding on your own. But remember: You can never know too much when
it comes to riding. Heck, even the riders on the Olympic equestrian team still
take lessons!
Remember
The way you keep the relationship between you and your horse healthy is to provide continuing education for the both of you by:
- Entering into training with a professional (where you and your horse will be schooled)
- Taking lessons as often as you can
- Practicing your riding skills and schooling your horse Spend some riding time reinforcing the commands your horse already knows while you practice giving them. Work in an arena once a week or so and execute turning, backing up, stopping, and other skills that you pick up in formal lessons.
Getting Into Riding Shape
You only need to be on a horse once to discover that riding utilizes muscles that you never knew you had. You don’t need to be a super athlete to be a competent rider, but the stronger and more flexible you are, the easier riding is on your body.
Tip
If you don’t already have a regular exercise routine, now may be a good time to start one. (Be sure to talk to your doctor first.) Here are a few things to work on that will enhance your riding abilities:
- Lose weight: If you’re overweight, it can be more difficult to mount, dismount, cue the horse, and stay comfortable when riding the horse’s various gaits. Besides, your excess weight is a hardship for the horse. Try to stick to a healthy diet of mostly protein and vegetables, with only a small amount of carbohydrates per day to keep your weight down and your energy level up Refined sugar should be avoided because it makes you gain weight and causes your blood-sugar levels to spike and crash. Avoiding preservatives, sugars, and processed foods whenever you can and eating mostly whole grains and fresh foods can keep your body strong and healthy for riding.
- Build muscle strength: If you plan to ride English, a good amount of arm strength is needed to maintain contact with the horse’s mouth via the reins. Women, especially, need to take note of this necessity, because unlike most men, they do not get sufficient arm strength genetically. You also need strong legs to cue the horse, post the trot (move up and down in the saddle with the rhythm of the horse’s gait), and do a number of other tasks when you are riding. Pilates exercises are a good way to build muscle strength in the areas you’ll need it most for riding.
- Get flexible: Most people notice soreness in their legs when they first train to ride. That’s because sitting stretched out across a horse’s back creates a big pull on the upper, inner muscles of the thighs. Do stretching exercises for your legs and the rest of your body several times to a week to stay flexible for riding. Yoga is another great way to stretch the muscles you’ll need for riding.
- Build endurance: If you plan to spend much time in the saddle, like on a long trail ride, you’ll want to build up your endurance. You can do this with aerobics, jogging, or even walking, if you do it often and for long periods of time. Riding for longer amounts of time over a gradual period also helps your body become accustomed to long hours in the saddle.
Tip
After you’ve gotten into solid riding shape, you probably will ask: How long should I ride? The answer depends on a couple of things:
- Your horse: Horses are capable of going all day, provided they’re properly conditioned. If you prefer to ride for an hour a day, once a day, you can slowly build your horse up to this level of conditioning. If you want to trail ride for hours on end several days a week, work your way up to that level over a period of months. If you ride only once a week (we recommend that you ride more often), don’t expect your horse to go for hours on that day because he’s pretty much out of shape and at risk of developing leg problems or something called azoturia (see Chapter Examining and Treating Equine Health Troubles). We also recommend that you limit arena riding to no more than one hour per day. Arena riding is hard on your horse’s legs and can be a real bore for your horse.
Keep in mind that although a horse can walk for an extended time without tiring, faster gaits, such as trotting and cantering, take much more energy. Be careful about spending too much time at these faster gaits if your horse isn’t properly conditioned. And don’t ride your horse in tight circles or on hard ground for extended periods, both can do serious damage to his legs.
- Your time: Most horse lovers would be happy spending most of their waking hours in the saddle. However, unless you’re a working cowboy, reality dictates that you’ll ride much less that that. We recommend that you ride as often as you can, and take really long rides only on the trail and only if your horse has been conditioned for such activity. The time you spend riding is not only good for your horse, it’s also good for your physical and mental well-being.
Swinging Up and Onto Your Horse
Before you can ride, you have to
get on, and for most beginners, mounting is one of the greatest challenges of
riding. Adults find it especially difficult, because they have much more bulk
to get up into a saddle than does a child.
Tip
Mounting your horse with great ease and decorum takes practice. In the beginning, we recommend that you have an experienced horse person spot you and make sure that you’re doing it right. While this person observes, have him or her hold onto your horse’s bridle for the sake of safety.
Tip
Before you get up on a horse and go, check the footing of the area where you plan to ride. If you plan to ride in an arena, be sure the dirt is loose — that is, not hard packed. Conversely, make sure the dirt isn’t so loose that your horse has to struggle through it. And be certain that the footing is dry. Wet arenas are among the most dangerous places to ride, longe, or turn out a horse. A horse can easily slip and fall on wet footing, seriously injuring himself or you in the process.
Many English riders use a mounting block to get on their horses, in large part because their stirrups are set shorter than those of western riders. The mounting block enables you to climb up nearly to the level of the horse’s back, where you simply swing your leg over the saddle. A mounting block keeps the saddle from slipping as you mount the horse and reduces the amount of wear and tear on your horse’s back. You can buy one of these at a tack store or a feed store, or through an equine Internet or mail-order catalog (see the Appendix for contact information).
Remember
Using a mounting block every time you get up on your horse is perfectly acceptable. But even if you choose to use one, you also need to know how to get on from the ground. If you get off or fall off your horse out on the trail, or in a place where you don’t have a mounting block, you can strand yourself if you can’t get back get on.
Tip
Mounting in a western saddle is easier than mounting in an English saddle because western stirrups are longer and reach lower than English stirrups. Western saddles also are less likely than English saddles to slip as you’re mounting, and you have more to hold onto with a western saddle.
To mount your horse from the
ground, follow these steps (see Figure 16-1):
1. Lead your horse to the area where you want to mount. Choose the inside of the arena where you plan to ride, or another safe area.
2. Position yourself and stay in control of the horse. To do so, you need to
- Place the reins over your horse’s head. If you’re mounting English, rest them on his neck.
- Stand at the horse’s left shoulder, facing the back of the horse with the reins snug in your left hand. Never release the reins while you’re mounting. You need to keep control of your horse at all times.
- If you’re riding, grab a handful of mane at the base of the horse’s neck with the same (left) hand. If you’re riding western, grab hold of the saddle horn with the same (left) hand.
3. Using your right hand, grasp the stirrup and turn it toward you. Place your left foot in the stirrup.
4. Swing into the saddle. Turn your body toward the horse as you grasp the cantle (the rise at the back of the saddle) with your right hand. Bounce on your right leg two or three times and then launch yourself up into the air, swinging your right leg over the horse’s hindquarters, being careful not to touch them, and land gently in the saddle.
5. Place your right foot in the stirrup. Divide up your reins into both hands if you’re riding English. If you’re riding western, just gather up your reins in your left hand.
Figure 16-1: Mounting a horse
in both English and western styles takes practice.
Focusing on Riding Fundamentals
Among the many things you
practice when you take riding lessons are what we call riding basics, or
the fundamental elements you must know to successfully ride a horse. In the
following sections, we cover how to hold the reins, position yourself in the
saddle, cue your horse, and ride along with your horse’s gaits.
Holding the reins
Just as you figured out how to
hold a knife and fork as a child, you now must now figure out the right way to
hold the reins when you ride. Holding the reins properly is very important,
because the reins are one of the primary means of communication between you and
your horse.
Tip
We describe how to hold the reins for both English and western styles in the sections that follow. In addition to reading our descriptions, we also recommend that you have a trainer or experienced horse person show you how to do it.
English
English bridles call for two hands on the reins. When you ride English, you hold the left rein in your left hand and the right rein in your right hand.
Even though the term reins is
plural, be aware that English snaffle bridles technically have only one
continuous rein that connects from one side of the bit to the other. However,
the part of the rein that connects to the left side of the bit is the left
rein. The part on the right side is the right rein.
To correctly pick up the reins,
start with the reins resting on the horse’s neck. Reach down and grasp the
reins with your palms facing down and your thumbs next to each other. After you
have the reins in your hands, rotate your wrists so that your thumbs are at the
top (knuckles up) and the knuckles of your fingers are facing each other. Move
your pinkies under each rein, so the rein rests between your pinkie and your
ring finger. Hold your hands in a relaxed fist (see Figure 16-2).
Figure 16-2: When you hold
your reins English style, make sure each rein rests between your pinkie and
ring fingers.
Tip
A common mistake many beginning English riders make is that they tend to balance themselves in the saddle by leaning against the reins. If you do this, you’re in essence using the horse’s mouth to help keep you in the saddle, which is considered poor riding and unfair to the horse. Imagine having 100 pounds or more pulling on your mouth in an effort to keep from falling. Ouch! Nobody wants to do that to any horse, so we suggest that you work hard at developing balance and security in the saddle so you won’t feel the need to weigh heavy on the horse’s mouth.
Western
Western reins usually are split
reins, which means you have two separate reins, one attached to the right
side of the bit, the other attached to the left.
Tip
Although you’re still learning to ride, we recommend that you tie a knot in your western reins, right above the area where your hand normally is when you’re holding them. Knotted reins are safer for beginning riders, because they won’t fall out of reach if you happen to drop them while riding.
Protocol
Western riding calls for the reins to be held in the left hand only. Doing so theoretically frees up the right hand for roping, an important task for the cowboys who originated this style of riding.
You can hold western reins in one
of two styles: traditional and California. These two styles exist purely as
regional distinctions, with California style being most popular in California,
of course. Either way is correct, although your riding instructor may prefer
one over the other.
To ride traditional style, grasp
the reins in your left fist, with the part of the reins that leads to the bit
resting between your thumb and forefinger. As you hold the reins, the nail on
your thumb should face skyward while the thumb itself points toward the horse’s
head (see Figure 16-3).
Figure 16-3: Your thumb points
toward the horse’s head when you hold reins in the traditional western style.
To hold the reins California
style, grasp the reins in your left fist, with your thumbnail pointed upward.
The excess rein should be held in your right hand, which rests on your right
thigh (see Figure 16-4).
Positioning yourself in the saddle
Many people don’t realize how important your seat position is when riding. Although experienced riders may seem to just casually sit up there, attaining the proper position takes a certain amount of practice and concentration. The way you sit in the saddle affects your and your horse’s comfort levels. It also determines how secure you are in the saddle. Riders with correct positioning are less likely to fall off if the horse suddenly moves in an unexpected direction.
Figure 16-4: Your left
fist holds the reins and your right hand is on your right thigh in the California
western style.
Remember
Your exact position in the saddle depends on your riding discipline (see Chapter Selecting a Riding Discipline for discipline details). The following basics apply to nearly everyone:
- Your back: Keep your back straight when you sit in the saddle. Don’t hunch forward, slump your shoulders, or arch your back. Just sit up straight like you were told to do in grade school.
- Your legs: Generally speaking, your legs belong directly under you while you’re in the saddle. They shouldn’t thrust forward ahead of your body or lag behind. (An exception is when you’re riding saddle seat, where your legs come out farther ahead of the body than in other disciplines.) Furthermore, the balls of your feet (and nothing more) need to rest in the stirrup, your toes should point up and straight ahead, and your heels should point down.
- Your derriere: Before you get on a horse, and in the privacy of your own home, become familiar with your seat bones. The two bony points between your thighs and your buttocks (one on each side) make contact with anything firm that you sit on, provided you’re sitting up straight. When you’re in the saddle, you should feel these two points against the seat of your saddle, which indicates that your posture is correct.
Tip
If you don’t feel your seat bones when you’re riding, you’re probably doing something wrong with your position. Ask a trainer, instructor, or experienced horse person for help aligning your seat in the saddle.
- Your arms: If you’re riding English, your arms need to be bent at the elbow, creating (theoretically) a straight line from your elbow to the bit. You need to hold your hands about 6 inches above the horse’s withers (the area on the back at the base of the horse’s neck). If you’re riding western, your left hand goes a few inches above the saddle horn. Your left arm should be bent at an approximate 45-degree angle, while your right arm should be relaxed with your right hand resting on your right thigh.
Cueing your horse
Remember
After you’re properly seated on the horse and are holding the reins, you’re ready to start signaling the horse. Most horses understand the following basic commands:
- Forward: Squeeze the horse’s sides with both your legs (using your calf muscles) at the same time. Make sure that your reins are relatively loose as you do. If the horse does not respond, you may need to gently tap the horse with your heels and make a kissing or clucking sound.
- Stop: Pull back on the reins with one steady motion as you say “Ho” (or “Whoa”). Maintain the pull on the reins until the horse stops.
- Turn left: You use both your legs and the reins to communicate this message.
If you’re riding English, pull back very slightly on only the left rein as you move your right leg back a little and apply some pressure. Your left leg applies pressure while staying stationary on the girth as a support for the horse to turn around. After the horse completes the turn, relax your hands and legs.
If you’re riding western, move your left hand to the left so the right rein makes contact with the horse’s neck (this is called neck reining). At the same time, move your right leg back a little behind the girth and apply some pressure to the horse’s side. Your left leg applies pressure while staying in place on the girth as a support for the horse to turn around. After the horse completes the turn, relax your hands and legs.
- Turn right: Turning right calls for the same commands as turning left, although in reverse. In English riding, pull back very slightly on only the right rein as you move your left leg back a little behind the girth and apply some pressure to the horse’s side. In western riding, move your left hand to the right so the left rein makes contact with the horse’s neck. At the same time, move your left leg back a little behind the girth and apply some pressure to the horse’s body.
- Back up: Pull back on the reins in one steady motion at the same time you apply leg pressure to both sides of the horse. Make a kissing or clucking sound to the horse. Continue this command for the entire time that you want the horse to back up. Be sure to keep your body straight in the saddle, as leaning forward will confuse your horse.
Tip
Coordinating the movements required to signal a horse takes practice. We recommend that you have an instructor, trainer, or experienced horse person help you with these basic human-to-horse commands.
Blazing trails on your horse
Basic riding skills are just as necessary on the trail
as they are in a riding arena. Out in the wilderness, you may find yourself
in situations where you must turn your horse, back him up, and of course ask
him to stop and go forward.
In addition to using your basic skills, you also need
to use your head out on the trail. Stick to these trail basics to ensure the
safety of your horse, other riders, and yourself:
- Walk up and down hills. Though your horse may want to, don’t gallop downhill. Avoid the urge to trot uphill, too, if you can. The faster you go up or down a hill, the more dangerous it is. Riding faster up or down also is bad for your horse’s legs, and it’s a difficult habit to break after the horse is used to doing it. Lean forward in the saddle when going uphill and lean back when going downhill. This helps your horse by shifting your weight off the end of the horse that is bearing most of the animal’s (and your) weight. - Negotiate obstacles. Sooner or later, you and your horse are going to come across an obstacle on the trail that your horse won’t want to deal with. It may be a fallen tree trunk, a mud puddle, or a big rock. Chances are, the obstacle will be running water because many horses are afraid to cross creeks and streams. You can’t allow your horse to successfully avoid the obstacle, or your horse soon figures out that he can dodge things he doesn’t like rather than listening to you. If your horse refuses to cross an obstacle, first make sure it’s safe enough to do so. Then get off and lead the horse through or over the obstacle. If that doesn’t work, ask your trail buddy to take her horse over the obstacle. Chances are, your horse will follow. If not, don’t risk your safety by engaging in a huge battle with your horse. Continue your ride in another direction, and when you get home to the stable, find an experienced horse person or trainer who can take your horse back on the trail to get him over his fear of that particular object. - Don’t allow jigging. Jigging, a cross between a walk and a trot, is something horses do when they ‘re anxious to get home and don’t want to walk. If your horse starts jigging and gets away with it, you soon have a chronic jigger on your hands. If your horse starts jigging, insist that the horse walk. If he won’t walk, turn him around in a continuous figure eight every time he starts to jig. - No eating! Imagine you’re a horse on a trail ride. Everywhere you look, you see all kinds of grasses, flowers, and shrubbery, just waiting to be eaten. Walking on the trail must the equine equivalent of strolling through a bakery. Horses being horses, they’re inclined to temptation and will reach out and try to snag a nibble at the first opportunity. However, as mean as it sounds, don’t let your horse have anything to eat on the trail, for three reasons: First, many poisonous plants exist out there. Even one mouthful of the wrong thing can make your horse very sick. Second, if you let your horse eat on the trail whenever the mood strikes, pretty soon your entire ride will be spent sitting on top of a grazing horse. And third, if your horse has a bit in his mouth, some of the roughage may get caught in his windpipe, causing breathing issues. - Warn other riders. If you have a horse that is particularly nasty to other horses - especially the ones that approach from behind — tie a red ribbon at the base of his tail as a warning to other riders that your horse might kick. - Walk him at the end of the ride. Don’t trot or canter during the last third of your journey home. Otherwise, your horse will think that rushing home is okay, and you’ll soon have trouble controlling the horse when you turn toward the stable. - Be safe at night. When riding at dusk or at night, wear reflective clothing (a vest is best) so that drivers can see you. |
Moving with your horse’s gaits
As you begin to ride, you start
out slow and work your way up to the faster gaits. Your first lesson is
completely at the walk. As your seat and hands improve, your instructor moves
you into a trot, and ultimately to a canter, or slow gallop. (See Chapter Understanding
Horses from Head to Hoof for
more about the different gaits.)
Remember
If you’re like most beginning riders, you’re anxious to try riding a horse while it gallops. We don’t blame you: After all, riding a galloping horse is an exhilarating feeling. But you need to be patient and work your way up to that moment when you’re secure enough in your basic riding skills where you can handle that kind of speed. If you work hard at riding, you’ll soon experience the glorious sensation of pounding hooves and the wind in your hair.
Delving Into Post-Ride Details
After you have your fill of
riding for the day, you aren’t finished with your horse. A few tasks remain:
dismounting, untacking, cooling down, and grooming.
Getting off your horse
Before you can do anything else in
your life, you have to get off the horse or dismount. Dismounting is
much easier than mounting because you don’t have to battle gravity. However,
you still need to dismount correctly for your own safety and for the comfort of
your horse. Dismounting is virtually the same for both English and western
riders:
1. Bring your horse to a complete halt.
2. Take your right foot out of the stirrup and position your left hand. If you are riding in an English saddle, put the reins in your left hand, and grasp the horse’s mane at the base of the neck with the same hand. Put your right hand on the pommel (the front of the saddle).
With a western saddle, grasp the saddle horn in your left hand as you continue to hold the reins.
3. Swing your right leg over the horse’s hindquarters — be careful not to touch the horse as you do — at the same time, move your right hand to the cantle.
4. Turn so your stomach is flat against the horse and your legs are next to one another; remove your left foot from the stirrup.
5. Slowly slide down until your feet are touching the ground.
Remember
Never let go of the reins while you’re dismounting. You need to keep control of your horse at all times.
Untacking your horse
After dismounting, lead your
horse back to the hitching post or crossties where you left the halter. You’re
now going to remove the horse’s tack. Untacking is basically the reverse of the
procedure you followed when tacking up in Chapter Getting
Ready Before You Mount.
Tip
If you ride English, be sure to run up the stirrup irons before you walk your horse back to his halter. The purpose is to keep the irons from banging against the horse’s side as he walks. You can run up the irons by sliding them up the back strap of the stirrup leather so the irons lay flat against the saddle. Tuck the loop of stirrup leather through the stirrup iron to secure it. Follow these steps to untack your horse:
1. Restrain the horse with the halter. Stand at the horse’s left side. As you hold the reins in your left hand, buckle the halter strap around the horse’s neck to restrain him (see Chapter Getting Ready Before You Mount for an illustration). The halter should still be attached to the hitching post or crosstie. Unbuckle the noseband and throatlatch, if any.
2. Remove the bridle. With your right hand, gently slide the headstall over the horse’s ears so that the bridle comes off the horse’s head.
Tip
Be careful not to pull the bit out of the horse’s mouth when you’re removing the bridle. Let the horse open his mouth to drop the bit before you pull the bridle completely off the horse’s head.
3. Return the halter to its normal position. Loop the headstall and reins over your shoulder or a nearby post. Unbuckle the part of the halter that is around the horse’s neck and lower the noseband just enough to slip the halter over the horse’s head. Then buckle it again. Be careful not to remove the halter strap completely from the horse’s neck as you do; otherwise, you have no restraint on the horse!
4. Remove (English) or untie (western) the saddle’s girth (or cinch). With an English saddle, remove the girth by unbuckling first the left side of the girth, then the right. Remove the girth completely.
If you are using a western saddle, untie the cinch knot first. Then, loop the latigo strap several times and tuck it into the D-ring. From the right side of the horse, lay the cinch over the seat of the saddle, and loop the right stirrup over the saddle horn.
5. Remove the saddle. Stand on the horse’s left side, facing the saddle. Grasp the front of the saddle pad with your left hand and the back of the pad with your right. Lift the pad and saddle up together, up and off the horse’s back.
6. Put the saddle on a saddle rack. The saddle pad should be on top of the saddle, with the wet underside of the pad facing up to dry. With an English saddle, you may want to lay the girth over the saddle pad, wet side up, to dry.
Cooling down and cleaning up
In the event that you haven’t
already walked your horse for at least 10 minutes at the end of your ride, you
have to do so now. Remove your horse’s saddle and bridle as described in the
preceding section, and take the horse for a walk around the stable by his
halter (see Chapter Working
with Your Horse from the Ground for more on leading your horse properly). Keep walking
until the horse is cool. You can tell whether the horse is cool by putting your
hand on his chest. If the horse’s chest is hot and sweaty, keep walking. The
sweat should be dried from the most of the horse’s body by the time you finish
with your walk, and his breathing should be slow and back to normal. (If the
weather is warm, you can also sponge him or hose him off with water to help him
cool down.)
Warning!
For the benefit of your horse’s health, never allow your horse to eat or drink until he’s completely cooled down! A horse that eats or drinks when hot is at risk for colic. (See Chapter Examining and Treating Equine Health Troubles for details on this malady.)
Remember
Your horse needs to be groomed after you ride as well as before. Clean out your horse’s feet and brush the horse down using the methods we describe in Chapter Keeping Your Horse Clean and Pretty. If your horse sweats a lot during the ride, wash the horse off with a hose or sponge.
Catching Tricks that Naughty Horses Play
Horses are much like children: They have a tendency to constantly test authority, just to make sure that it’s still there. In your horse’s mind, the best time to test your authority is when you’re riding.
Many horses pull the stunts in
the following sections just to see what they can get away with. In other cases,
these behaviors stem from genuine fear, poor training, and insecurity on the
horse’s part. Either way, you need to call on your superior human intellect and
leadership skills to convince the horse to change his behavior. To constantly
reinforce your horse’s obedience, make sure that every move you make when
riding is your idea, not the horse’s.
Bucking
You’ve seen bucking broncos on
TV. Although they may look ferocious, they actually are made to buck with the
use of a device called a bucking strap, tied around their flanks. Rodeo riders
make these horses perform by taking advantage of the horse’s natural tendency
to buck when something unpleasant or frightening is on his back.
When an average saddle horse
bucks, it isn’t usually with the same force as a rodeo bronc. Nonetheless, even
a moderate buck can still remove you from the saddle if you don’t have good
balance.
Average horses usually buck for
one of two reasons: They have excess energy that they need to release, or
they’re in pain. If you find yourself on a bucking horse, sit squarely in the
saddle and try to pull the horse’s head up with the reins. A horse needs to put
his head down to be able to buck.
Tip
If your horse bucks frequently when you ride, try giving him more exercise on a regular basis to release any pent-up energy. If that doesn’t help, have a veterinarian examine the horse to determine whether he is suffering from leg or back pain. If neither one of these works, contact a trainer. Your horse may be bucking to get out of having to work — something everyone does on occasion.
Remember
If your horse bucks you off, be sure to get right back on (or have someone else get on) and continue riding, at least for a few minutes. You may not want to get back on board, but you need to do so to keep the horse from thinking he can get out of work simply by unloading you.
Rearing
When a horse rears, he
stands up on his hind legs, lifting his forefeet off the ground. Most horses
rear when they are very afraid of something that is approaching them from the
front, when a severe bit or hackamore is hurting their mouths, or when they’re
resisting the rider.
Warning!
Rearing while being ridden is an extremely dangerous habit that you should not tolerate. If your horse rears with you when you ask him to do something he doesn’t want to do, you need to hang on and wait for the rear to end.
(Don’t pull back on the reins
because doing so may throw the horse over.) Don’t ride the horse again until a
trainer has worked with the animal to cure him of this vice.
Backing up without being asked
When a horse starts backing up
even though you didn’t ask him to, the horse is trying to resist you, probably because
you asked him to do something that he doesn’t want to do.
Make sure that you’re not
inadvertently telling the horse to back up. Be sure that your reins are loose
whenever you squeeze the horse to move forward. If your reins are loose but the
horse continues to back up, then the horse is trying to pull a fast one. To
combat this maneuver, loosen your reins and prompt the horse forward by nudging
him in the ribs with your heels. Keep nudging until the horse gives up and
moves forward.
Remember
If backing up is a repeated problem with your horse, call in the services of a professional trainer for some help.
Spooking
Horses are prey animals by
nature, and so they’re always on the alert. If something spooks a horse, his
first reaction is to shy away from the offending creature or object. Because
spooking usually comes along with quick and sudden movements in unexpected
directions, riders sometimes become unseated.
Horses typically spook at the
following objects: white plastic bags blowing in the wind, flags, balloons,
umbrellas, and anything they haven’t seen before that they can’t identify. They
also get nervous when they see an object in a place where they haven’t seen it
before.
If your horse spooks for some reason, the animal is most likely frightened of the object. Allow the frightened horse to turn and face the object to get a good look at it. After the horse has a moment to carefully focus on the object, he most likely will calm down. If the horse still refuses to pass the object, you may need to get off the horse and lead him past. For some reason, horses are much braver when they are being led than when they are being ridden. You can even try going over to the object and touching it yourself so your horse sees that it’s harmless.
Tip
Many things on a trail can cause your horse to spook. Hikers with big orange backpacks, mountain bikers, and people walking their dogs are potentially scary things to a horse. If you come across someone on the trail that your horse is nervous about, ask the person to stand aside and refrain from moving so the horse can pass. Encourage that person to say something; many horses relax after they realize the strange object in front of them is the person they just heard speak. If the horse still is too frightened to approach the person, you may have to get off and lead the horse.
Remember
If the horse seems deathly afraid of something and refuses to calm down, take the horse away from the object so he doesn’t become panicky and dangerous. Ask a trainer or experienced horse person to help you work with the horse to get him over this particular fear.
Running away
Most well-trained horses wouldn’t
dream of running away with a rider, but on occasion, something can frighten a
horse so badly that he takes off in a blind panic.
If you ever lose control of a
horse that is running away with you, do your best to stay on without squeezing
your legs against the horse (which only makes the horse go faster). Pull back
on the reins in a continuous motion, and say “Ho” again and again in as calm a
voice as you can muster. You also can try to turn the horse in a circle while
he’s running, because doing so often is a good way to slow the animal down.
Turn the animal by pulling the horse’s head around using one rein as you apply
pressure with the leg on the same side as the rein you’re pulling. Take this
action slowly and gradually, however, because a sudden and dramatic jerk to the
side while the horse is running can throw him off balance.
Remember
If you have a horse that chronically runs away with you, you have a serious problem that needs to be handled by a professional trainer.
Refusing to move
Mules aren’t the only animals
that can be stubborn. Horses sometimes refuse to budge. Because horses that are
inclined to plant their feet usually are the kind that are good at sensing a
lack of confidence in a rider, beginning riders often encounter this problem.
If you find your horse won’t move
when you first get up on his back, even though you apply leg pressure, you have
a horse who isn’t very responsive and is testing your authority. (Just to be on
the safe side, have an experienced horse
person observe you to make sure that you aren’t doing something
Remember
If this doesn’t work, get a trainer or experienced horse person to help you deal with the problem. Spurs and a crop may do the job, but you need help to properly use these devices.
Another situation where a horse
may refuse to move is if the animal is afraid of something up ahead. You can
tell the difference between the two kinds of refusals by looking at the horse’s
body language. A frightened horse holds his head up high, rotates his ears
forward, tenses his body, and shows the whites of his eyes. If that’s what you
see, follow our advice under the earlier section “Spooking.” If the horse seems
relaxed but simply refuses to move, you have a resister on your hands.
Being “barn-sour”
A horse that refuses to leave the
stable for a trail ride or fights you out on the trail in an attempt to get
back home is considered barn-sour. Barn-sour horses are potentially
dangerous and a real problem to retrain.
If you have a horse that is
barn-sour, your first step is to make sure that the horse doesn’t have a
physical reason for his attitude. Have a vet examine the horse’s mouth, poll,
girth, and back to make sure that the animal isn’t in pain.
If the horse is okay, then the
attitude results from a lack of respect for rider authority. You need to gain
the horse’s obedience before you can expect the animal to allow you take him
away from the barn, a place that he associates with food and security. Start by
schooling the horse at home, in an arena. Practice moving forward, backing up,
turning, and stopping. The horse needs to follow your commands completely
before you attempt to take him out on the trail. (Be sure to reward him with a
pat and kind words when he does what you want.)
When you go out for the first
time after a couple of months of schooling, go with another rider for your own
safety, just in case the horse misbehaves. Remind the horse throughout the ride
that you’re in charge by asking him to stop and back up. When it’s time to turn
around and head for home, keep the horse’s gait at a walk for the entire ride
back to the stable. Avoid feeding the horse immediately after you return to the
barn.
Barn-sour horses are notoriously
hard to retrain. If none of the above work, you have to bring in a professional
trainer.
by Audrey Pavia with Janice Posnikoff,DVM
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